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Santiago3.1 posted:Yeah, I'm an automatic user, never been able to get the handle on a stick shift. I'm sure either Travis or myself could teach you how to drive a manual, if you're interested in learning.
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Aug 1, 2009 18:28
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OrangeFurious posted:The "Service Engine Soon" light on my e38 came on today. First time since I bought the car, runs fine, etc. Manual says it's emissions related. When a BMW throws the service light, how much does it actually mean it? Mine was on and off for about a year until I got the intermittently failing sensor replaced earlier this week. It seemed to be pretty accurate, rarely did it come on or switch off without a corresponding change in how much the car felt like idling properly. That was for a hosed intake camshaft position sensor, so YMMV. If it's emissions related and you don't have inspections in your state, it's probably not too important, but I'm sure if you post the code here someone will tell you for sure.
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Aug 1, 2009 21:03
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Pissingintowind posted:I'm going to be trying to sell my totaled E36 M3 as a complete parts car when I get it back from insurance. Here is a link to the thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1279530 Sounds about right to me. Good luck with the sale.
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Aug 2, 2009 03:28
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Hi guys, I've always kind of lurked this thread but now I am actually looking at getting a car so...here goes. I've been looking around for a car to learn how to wrench on, and several people here on AI and in person have included e30's in their short lists. I've found this one that I'm going to look at next weekend. The stuff (s)he lists are pretty common problems, and I feel like I have some idea of what to look for as far as bushings/rust/etc. I guess I kind of want to know if you guys think I should go for it, or maybe look for a bit newer one for a bit more money. I plan on offering $500 and seeing what they come back with. I really don't want to spend more that $1500 all told if I look for a newer one. edit: the car is a 5-speed.
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Aug 2, 2009 03:40
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If the A/C compressor is shot, it's going to be a pretty expensive fix, even if you do it yourself. On Pelican, the cheapest one for that model is $355. However, it might work and can be converted over for less than $200 if the compressor is good. You're going to need this if Houston's anywhere near as hot as Austin is right now and you're going to be driving it at all during the day. At that mileage, if they haven't done it already, I think you might be in for a cooling system refresh (if you go by the 60-75k schedule). However, my main worry is the body rust that I can see in the lovely pictures. If the body has that kind of rust, I can only imagine how bad everything else is.
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Aug 2, 2009 03:59
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GentlemanofLeisure posted:Hi guys, I've always kind of lurked this thread but now I am actually looking at getting a car so...here goes. M10 powered e30s like that one are dog-slow. Personally I'd hold out for a later model and spend the extra cash. $1500 really isn't enough of a budget for a project car though. At least, not a BMW one. I'd plan on more like 3k for a decent e30 and necessary repairs/maintenance.
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Aug 2, 2009 06:12
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peterjmatt posted:$1500 really isn't enough of a budget for a project car though. At least, not a BMW one. I'd plan on more like 3k for a decent e30 and necessary repairs/maintenance. This. Unless the car has meticulous maintenance records (and even then...) you need to budget for anything that could pop up 6 months after purchasing. In the first few months I spent 1400 in labour because I couldn't fix anything myself in the winter, and now my e30 has been on jackstands for awhile because the friction material from my clutch is in powder form.
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Aug 2, 2009 14:04
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zamin posted:If the A/C compressor is shot, it's going to be a pretty expensive fix, even if you do it yourself. On Pelican, the cheapest one for that model is $355. However, it might work and can be converted over for less than $200 if the compressor is good. You're going to need this if Houston's anywhere near as hot as Austin is right now and you're going to be driving it at all during the day. An A/C compressor is one of those things you should always buy used, IMO. They cost a truckload new (particularly if original), but a used one can work perfectly for many many years, and at a fraction the cost. But anyway, spend a little extra for a rust-free one. On the other hand, don't expect a flawless car either, that's how it is when buying used. The main concern is that the drivetrain works as it's supposed to, and rust sucks to fix.
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Aug 2, 2009 16:55
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Pilsner posted:But anyway, spend a little extra for a rust-free one. On the other hand, don't expect a flawless car either, that's how it is when buying used. Speaking on the rust issue, I know Houston's probably really bad about it, what with being pretty much on the coast. If you can, try expanding your search to Austin, San Antonio, and maybe D/FW and their surrounding areas. It's been dry as hell in Austin and SA for a while now, and we've only just now been getting some rain, but not much of it. The vast majority of cars that I see, even 20+ year old ones, are either completely rust free, or have only a very minor patch here or there. I drive a 20 year old car, and it's only now beginning to show some signs of rust, and even then it's only really on the rocker panels where the metal has been chipped away by highway debris. They might be a bit more expensive if you can find them, but I'd much rather pay $1,500 for a car from Central Texas than pay $750 for the same car from Houston or Corpus.
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Aug 2, 2009 17:07
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Thanks for the replies. I have actually been looking at San Antonio, Austin and even Dallas. I actually did get to look at the car today, and there was a lot of rust on it that I didn't see in the pictures. I'm no Sockington, so I took a pass on the car. As far as $1500, that's what I've got budgeted for the purchase price of the car. I have plenty squared away to fix what needs fixing, and another reliable (Toyota) daily driver so I shouldn't have to worry about garaging anything while I learn how to fix poo poo. All said, I'll probably narrow my search to one of the late 80's models with the inline 6, 5 speed and 2 doors.
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Aug 2, 2009 20:34
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On my Z4 the driver side seatbelt buckle button has become stuck about halfway down. It still functions to the extent that it buckles and releases with the press of the button the rest of the way, but it unbuckles when I go over bumps. Does anyone have any advice on fixing this?
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Aug 2, 2009 23:16
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I know the last thing I need is another e30 (especially when mine is lacking a drivetrain), but drat. I've watched the guy drop the price on this about 5 times, and now it's down to 1800 CAD. I could probably offload my civic for 500-1000 and pick this up for a daily driver. http://halifax.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-cars-BMW-1991-bmw-318i-NEED-GONE-ASAP-PLEASE-W0QQAdIdZ119275317
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Aug 2, 2009 23:29
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Crustashio posted:I know the last thing I need is another e30 (especially when mine is lacking a drivetrain), but drat. I've watched the guy drop the price on this about 5 times, and now it's down to 1800 CAD. I could probably offload my civic for 500-1000 and pick this up for a daily driver. Wow, that looks great for such a cheap price. How come we don't get stuff this cheap in the US? Go buy it...
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Aug 2, 2009 23:46
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Aquila posted:On my Z4 the driver side seatbelt buckle button has become stuck about halfway down. It still functions to the extent that it buckles and releases with the press of the button the rest of the way, but it unbuckles when I go over bumps. Does anyone have any advice on fixing this? Check and make sure there isn't something stuck in it, like a paperclip, button, etc.
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Aug 3, 2009 00:59
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I got my climate control computer back, with a new capacitor soldered in, and it doesn't fix the problem. The fix had been done before, and my friend noted that it looks like someone removed a resistor from the R213 location on the back of the board:  Anybody know why this might have been done? Anyway, since it wasn't the capacitor, I'm thinking its a different problem entirely. My blower blows on full-high almost all of the time, but occasionally ramps down momentarily. Sometimes its off. Could it be my final stage unit or my blower resistor? Or the missing resistor on the board? CornHolio fucked around with this message at 16:50 on Aug 3, 2009 |
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Aug 3, 2009 16:05
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CornHolio posted:If your blower is blowing on full high or full low all the time, it is the final stage unit (assuming you have digital CC). The circuit board fix is if your digital display is going nuts (turning off, changing speeds on the display, etc.).
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Aug 3, 2009 16:53
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Pissingintowind posted:If your blower is blowing on full high or full low all the time, it is the final stage unit (assuming you have digital CC). The circuit board fix is if your digital display is going nuts (turning off, changing speeds on the display, etc.). OK. So there's no way it could be the blower resistor? RM european has a really good price on the FSU ($45.65) so if this is the case I'll order one of those.
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Aug 3, 2009 17:07
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wolrah posted:Mine was on and off for about a year until I got the intermittently failing sensor replaced earlier this week. It seemed to be pretty accurate, rarely did it come on or switch off without a corresponding change in how much the car felt like idling properly. That was for a hosed intake camshaft position sensor, so YMMV. If it's emissions related and you don't have inspections in your state, it's probably not too important, but I'm sure if you post the code here someone will tell you for sure. Can you, or anyone really, recommend a good OBDII scanner? I've been meaning to pick one up but don't know the brands well.
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Aug 3, 2009 17:20
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CornHolio posted:OK. So there's no way it could be the blower resistor? RM european has a really good price on the FSU ($45.65) so if this is the case I'll order one of those. IIRC, the FSU is present in digital CC systems, and the resistor pack is in the older analog systems. They should not both be present.
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Aug 3, 2009 17:34
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Pissingintowind posted:IIRC, the FSU is present in digital CC systems, and the resistor pack is in the older analog systems. They should not both be present. Oh. RM listed both as being applicable for my car. I guess that solves it then. Thanks!
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Aug 3, 2009 17:35
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CornHolio posted:Could it be my final stage unit or my blower resistor? Fixed your exact problem w/ a new final stage unit on my '99 a couple weeks ago.
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Aug 3, 2009 17:41
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Sterndotstern posted:Fixed your exact problem w/ a new final stage unit on my '99 a couple weeks ago. How hard was it to get to? Looks easy enough from pictures.
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Aug 3, 2009 18:06
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CornHolio posted:How hard was it to get to? Looks easy enough from pictures. Easier than doing your cabin microfilter. Absolutely DIY.
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Aug 3, 2009 18:59
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Sterndotstern posted:Easier than doing your cabin microfilter. Absolutely DIY. Hey and I thought that was easy. Good news for me! Thanks!
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Aug 3, 2009 19:10
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Forgot to post this last week, but my car hit another milestone on Thursday. I decided it had been long enough that I've been putting off replacing the camshaft sensor, so that and the busted PCV hose are both now fixed. Two problems I've put off for longer than I should have. Of course as it goes with fun cars, you fix one thing and something else breaks. My passenger side real taillight is acting up, so I get the fun of testing and tracing the connections on the LED circuit board. e: OrangeFurious posted:Can you, or anyone really, recommend a good OBDII scanner? I've been meaning to pick one up but don't know the brands well. The only thing I want to stress is make sure whatever device you get supports the protocol used by your cars and/or the cars you want to support. It's easiest to just get a universal adapter, but if you want to save a few bucks you can get one that only supports your protocol. Fords from the mid-90s on up until the mid-00s use J1850 PWM, GMs in the same time period used J1850 VPW, Chryslers and imports tended to use ISO 1941-2. These of course can vary as a result of platform sharing. Over the last few years most manufacturers standardized on ISO 15764 CAN-bus and everything sold in the US from the 2008 model year up is required to support it. For purposes of this thread, 1996 through early '00s (varies by platform) US spec BMWs use ISO 1941-2, newer models use CAN. Some models for other markets may not have any OBD2 functionality. If you only want it to look up codes, clear MILs, and show the emissions test status, they're all the same. If you want a universal cable that will give you full standard OBD2 functionality with PC software, you want something with an ELM327 in it. There are also make-specific cables which can be paired with special software to enable modifications to be made to the car's various ECUs. BMWs and Mercedes (including the Dodge and Freightliner badged Sprinters) are supported by CarSoft, where a large chunk of VAG's vehicle selection is supported by VAG-COM. A basic ELM327 cable can be built by anyone with soldering skills for $40 or so or bought for around $60-100 depending on serial or USB interface (Bluetooth also available from some sellers), a CarSoft or VAG-COM setup is a few hundred dollars. I personally have an ElmScan5 (commercially packaged ELM327 with a serial interface) and a CarSoft cable (with the wrong end, only works with '01 and previous E46s). The ElmScan is nice because it's cheap, works with almost every piece of OBD software out there, and it's compatible with every OBD2 vehicle in existence. I've plugged it in to everything from a 1995 Thunderbird (partial OBD2) to a CAN-bus only 2009 GTI without issues. wolrah fucked around with this message at 21:33 on Aug 3, 2009 |
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Aug 3, 2009 21:04
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wolrah posted:Forgot to post this last week, but my car hit another milestone on Thursday. drat you were in a rush to hit that milestone.
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Aug 3, 2009 22:52
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Crustashio posted:I know the last thing I need is another e30 (especially when mine is lacking a drivetrain), but drat. I've watched the guy drop the price on this about 5 times, and now it's down to 1800 CAD. I could probably offload my civic for 500-1000 and pick this up for a daily driver. Took a look at it tonight. I can see why it hasn't sold in a year. -Shifter bushings are trashed, possibly even non-existant. I thought my iX was bad, but I couldn't even find the loving gears, and when I found first and popped it in, the shifter fell back into the neutral position but the tranny stayed in gear. I figure ~100 bucks to replace all the bushings. -Wierd noise from the passenger side rear. Sort of a clunking sound that seemed to increase with speed. -While the seats were ok, other parts of the interior were poo poo. There was a trim piece missing behind the shifter, scuff marks on the doors, and the ebrake was partially melted(!?). -Paint was ok, but there were some bad surface rust spots on the front bumper, and a few paint chips. -Guy had no idea when the clutch was changed last. If I needed a project, I'd consider it for around 1000 but I was hoping for a daily driver. If I bought it I'd have to put it on stands the instant my iX is running again just to fix the shifter and whatever is wrong with the rear wheel. I do want a e30 318 to daily drive but I'll hold out.
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Aug 3, 2009 23:52
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Clockwork Sputnik posted:I'd normally agree with you, but this is on fresh pavement on city streets at low speeds. At freeway speeds, it definitely does 'track' into the grooves, but I think that'll be resolved with alignment. Drives better now, post-alignment. Still pulls a bit but it turns out the struts are NOT good. The right front is blown, left front is going. Is pelican still the best resource for strut inserts? Should I replace the entire strut assembly, or just the insert? If anyone is any good at reading alignment figures, here's the lowdown: code:Still, can't wait to stop being so gentle with it, and get the front end set up and take 'er through the twisties!
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Aug 4, 2009 00:06
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So, I'm looking at a 1989 325i Convert. There's two owners. The first being the original owner whom went to Germany, purchased it and shipped it over to the states. The second owner is his son who drivers it too and from work that's about a 15-min drive. It's in decent shape, some rust, 189k miles but runs well (from the sound of it). I've got a trusted local mechanic whom only works on imports (BMW,Audi,VW,etc) but I wonder what I am I looking at with buying a car this old. Aside from the usual old car problems is there anything specific to look for with an E30? Also, I'm in Fargo, ND so I wonder how bad is it to be driving a convertible in the winter?
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Aug 4, 2009 04:13
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If one were looking to get into an E34, and was looking at picking one like this up, what sort of maintenance and/or problems should I expect to run into on this 140k+ mile 5-Seies? Coming from a '97 328is, reliability is important to me since it'll be a daily driver. Is that price reasonable for what seems to be a very good condition car? edit: stupid broken link fixed now Gas Break Dip fucked around with this message at 15:26 on Aug 4, 2009 |
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Aug 4, 2009 04:31
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Gas Break Dip posted:If one were looking to get into an E34, and was looking at picking one like this up, what sort of maintenance and/or problems should I expect to run into on this 140k+ mile 5-Seies? Coming from a '97 328is, reliability is important to me since it'll be a daily driver. Is that price reasonable for what seems to be a very good condition car? The link is messed up and just points to somethingawful.com. 
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Aug 4, 2009 12:15
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Tab8715 posted:So, I'm looking at a 1989 325i Convert. There's two owners. The first being the original owner whom went to Germany, purchased it and shipped it over to the states. The second owner is his son who drivers it too and from work that's about a 15-min drive. It's in decent shape, some rust, 189k miles but runs well (from the sound of it). Based on your location I would pass. E30 verts are nothing special--heavy, sloppy, horrible top design.
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Aug 4, 2009 15:01
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Pilsner posted:The link is messed up and just points to somethingawful.com. Whoops, fixed. Sorry about that!
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Aug 4, 2009 15:25
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Gas Break Dip posted:Whoops, fixed. Sorry about that! On the one hand, well-kept E34s are some of the best looking BMWs in my opinion. On the other hand, I've heard bad things about the V8 from that era. I found this link which may prove helpful. Actually, reading through the thread, not really, but there it is anyway.
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Aug 4, 2009 16:04
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So I have a 1994 325 coupe coming my way soon, it has 200k on it and is mechanically a little rough but mostly straight and rust free. I think its worth doing something with this but where to start, is it even worth turning this free car into something? The interior is decent and all the gauges work with no dead pixels in it, yet, so I think I have something to work with. With 200k on it I figure the suspension and drivetrain are junk and will need repair or replacement and then isn't there a subframe issue in the e36 generation, how much power can that chassis handle without falling apart?
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Aug 4, 2009 16:40
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Gas Break Dip posted:If one were looking to get into an E34, and was looking at picking one like this up, what sort of maintenance and/or problems should I expect to run into on this 140k+ mile 5-Seies? Coming from a '97 328is, reliability is important to me since it'll be a daily driver. Is that price reasonable for what seems to be a very good condition car? Overall I'd say the E34 is very reliable. I own one (3 years) and have scrapped one that overall worked but was rusted and with a busted cylinder head (it had almost 200k miles on it). The electrics work 100% in my 20-year-old E34, and so does the drive train. It has a bit of rust on the back rear wheel well + panel, but only because of an old accident by a previous owner. You just get a lot of bang for the buck with the car; powerful engines and lots of comfort equipment options. Plus it keeps looking good! As for the engine choices, here are the reasonable ones: - 525i from 1991-1995 (M50B25 engine, 192hp), a great overall compromise between price and performance. - 535i from 1988-1992 (M30B35 engine, 211hp), more power but a huge gas guzzler. Simpler and older engine design, and hence cheaper and easier to diagnose and repair if you get engine troubles. It still has smooth idle and runs great, plus awesome sound. - 540i from 1992-1995 (M60B40 engine, 286hp), people say bad things about the BMW V8s, but you know, lots of people talk without having owned one, referring to the now obsolete Nikasil issue. I haven't either, but I see plenty of ads for them with 130k+ miles, looking good. But of course, they'll be more expensive to maintain than an M50 engine and there are more cylinders, two cats, slightly upgraded suspension + brakes, and a few other things. But the rest of the car is close to the same.
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Aug 4, 2009 18:46
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Pilsner posted:Overall I'd say the E34 is very reliable. I own one (3 years) and have scrapped one that overall worked but was rusted and with a busted cylinder head (it had almost 200k miles on it). The electrics work 100% in my 20-year-old E34, and so does the drive train. It has a bit of rust on the back rear wheel well + panel, but only because of an old accident by a previous owner. Wow, thank you for the reply - I really like how you described the three most reasonable engine choices. I absolutely love my 328is, especially because of the engine. The 2.8L I-6 is the first six-cylinder engine I've driven and I have to say I really fell in love with it the first day I took the car home. Smooth, predictable power with an incredible howl. Running her through the gears brings a smile on my face every single time. The car does have some minor issues I'm in the process of fixing now, and when I finally get everything tidied up I have been thinking of moving up to a 5-series. My main motivation for selling the 328 is that I'd like to have four doors, and a little bit more room (bigger trunk too). The coupe' is nice, but I really miss having a sedan. But at the same time, I don't want to sacrifice performance/handling. With that said, I am thinking the 540i is going to be a good choice. Ultimately I think an E36 four-door M3 would fit the bill perfectly for me, but they are going to be a little too pricey, or maybe not?
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Aug 4, 2009 19:53
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Just dropping in to say that if you haven't replaced shocks and struts in the last 50,000 miles, do it NOW. The difference is incredible! I paid $450 shipped for OE Sachs shocks and struts, and sold my old busted ones for $100 profit. $350 later, my M3 feels brand new.
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Aug 4, 2009 23:55
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Pissingintowind posted:Just dropping in to say that if you haven't replaced shocks and struts in the last 50,000 miles, do it NOW. The difference is incredible! I paid $450 shipped for OE Sachs shocks and struts, and sold my old busted ones for $100 profit. $350 later, my M3 feels brand new. I might do this with my first disposable income, my first step is getting a job... :V But god, the thing was lowered so I have to take speed bumps at next to nothing, and steep entrances are a nightmare.
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Aug 5, 2009 03:02
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So I'm probably going to buy this: http://www.sacramentoeuropean.com/detail.cfm?V=1999%20BMW%20M3%20Convertible%202D&ID=366762 I talked them down to $10,000. ('course, I'll have to fly down from Seattle). Carfax is clean (it's linked from their site). If I shouldn't do this, tell me now, but it's looking like the best deal I can get, and the ~800 miles back up to Seattle will be a pretty good vetting period to see how it's riding.
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Aug 5, 2009 03:35
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