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 Click here for the full 1600x1200 image. Hoop added to front bumper.  Click here for the full 1600x1200 image. 1.75" spacers installed up front. SO MUCH BETTER. As for the treadwrights, I figured what the gently caress. I needed tires now. I read good reviews on several forums and most of the complaints were from a year+ or so ago. I'm thinking I'm going to be getting new wheels tires pretty soon especially if I go with the hi-line fenders like I think I will. So I can sell the wheels and tires together and get a pretty good price for whatever I wind up with, probably the aev wheels. Tossed_Salad_Man fucked around with this message at 18:28 on Aug 3, 2009 |
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Aug 3, 2009 18:12
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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:
Is this your house? It looks like an old school building. I think a lot of the fear about retreads is perpetuated by those who don't really understand the process and assume that the treads are just glued on or something. They don't seem to have a problem with the fact that almost all semi trucks, airplanes, tractors, etc. run retreaded tires. Treadwright follows practically the same process that's used by the factory to adhere the tread to the core, they just don't make it look very pretty.
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Aug 3, 2009 18:47
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incredibull posted:I think a lot of the fear about retreads is perpetuated by those who don't really understand the process and assume that the treads are just glued on or something. Or the fact you see them littering the highway everywhere. No thanks.
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Aug 3, 2009 18:51
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incredibull posted:Is this your house? It looks like an old school building. It's my "shop" at work a very old school building. While I image PCs or gently caress with poo poo on the bench and the software does its thing, I gently caress with my jeep. The former bathroom in the shop is FULL of jeep parts. There is the former wood shop that has a roll up door where I can drive in and do a lot of work. If I thought I'd be at this location longer than a year I'd buy a compressor and keep it down there. But looks like we may be moved into mobile units and this building abandoned.
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Aug 3, 2009 18:53
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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:
I had to go back and look, as I didn't remember it being down that far in front that 1.75" spacers make it look level. Maybe it was the angle of the pics? Those hi-line fenders you showed looked cool. Out of curiosity, have you seen any pictures with the hood open? Does the kit close in the back of the fender? It almost looks like they are attached to the hood except for that skirting you can see in the head on picture.
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Aug 3, 2009 18:56
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DILLIGAF posted:I had to go back and look, as I didn't remember it being down that far in front that 1.75" spacers make it look level. Maybe it was the angle of the pics? The spacers made a huge difference. I was afraid 1.75" would be too much but it turned out nearly perfect. I am wondering if i were to get a suspension lift would I still require the spacers or will new springs compensate for the downward rake? http://www.aev-conversions.com/products/highline/tech_specs.php the animation at the bottom shows what I think you're asking. The reason I like these over the genright highline fenders (http://www.genright.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=TFF2XXX) is no relocation of under hood poo poo. But I'd really like tube fenders up front, so I'm trying to work on some sort of plan.
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Aug 3, 2009 19:22
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Philip J Fry posted:I just find it weird how stuff like that is so strictly enforced in some states while not even an issue in others, particularly mud flaps and flares. Our current laws for those here in WA make pretty much any new truck right off the lot infractionable, let alone heavily modified vehicles. I'd be pissed if I lived in a state that didn't allow you to have your doors removed. Really? What is it about the trucks that are immediately illegal?
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Aug 3, 2009 19:35
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My understanding is that you can get some companies to send you a lift that compensates, but only if you do it over the phone. Most stock lifts i have seen (and heard about)do not. That's why I went ahead and installed the extra spacers in the front of mine when I lifted it, for a future heavy front bumper. On the Jeep Forums, you see a lot of folks who end up with spacers or replacing the front springs for heavier ones down the line.
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Aug 3, 2009 19:41
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Doctor Zero posted:Really? What is it about the trucks that are immediately illegal? No mudflaps. In WA, they're supposed to extend down to the center of the axle. Some even have upgraded tire packages which makes them stick out past the (stock) flares. +1/8" is enough to get you a ticket, but I think you need to commit a moving violation before they can cite you for not meeting either requirement.
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Aug 3, 2009 22:16
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Braincloud posted:Or the fact you see them littering the highway everywhere. No thanks. Those aren't all retreads, in fact most of them probably aren't. Retreads and "normal" tires can shed the tread in the same way when they fail.
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Aug 3, 2009 23:41
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Just installed the Hawk LTS/Napa rotor combo today on the XJ and I'm really happy with the results. It seems like my stopping power has doubled, but it may just be because the old rotors were warped a bit. At $75 for the pads and $30 each for the rotors I think it's a worthwhile upgrade.
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Aug 4, 2009 02:52
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 Click here for the full 1600x1200 image. treadwright casing you might be able to see where it says treadwright.  Click here for the full 1600x1200 image. goodyear  Click here for the full 1600x1200 image. mounted The tires arrived and I was stoked to have received goodyear mtr casings/sidewalls. The fed ex guy spent around 10 minutes looking them over when I told them they were retreads. I went to get the mounted at this tire place where I live. I live in BFE and this tire place is run by this old man who bitches about everything. He looked the tires over and asked why did I get four, why not get three and use that spare? I told him they were retreads and he said I was making GBS threads him. He spent probably another 10 minutes looking over each one and said "retreads musta come a long way if this is a retread". I got em mounted and they said they were supposed to put 80 psi in the tires. I there was no way. That was too much. I told them I wanted 35 or 40 he said I needed at least half and I think they have 50 psi in them now I'm going to have to dial the pressure in. I swear I had 35 in them before. The tread is the exact same as the goodyear mtr but smaller. The lugs are smaller so I guess there are more of them. The noise they make is different than my old goodyears, but they were almost to or AT the wear bars. The noise is a higher tone than the lower hum of the old ones or other MTRs I have had in the past. There is none of that wom wom wom wom wom that mtrs make when you slow down. But then again these are brand new tires with what I think is a lot of air in them. Is 50psi too much for 245 75 16s? So for now I am VERY excited and happy with these tires. It cost $50 to mount the tires. So $466 shipped, mounted and balanced. Cheapest goodyears I could find was $616 for 3 using my spare, keeping an old one for a spare, or $799 for 4. The next choice was the gt tires(Malaysia?)adventuro MTs like on my old YJ which would have been $528. Or dunlop mud rovers around $610.
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Aug 5, 2009 14:12
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They definitely did a clean job with those casings. Any vibrations at highway speed?
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Aug 5, 2009 15:39
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incredibull posted:They definitely did a clean job with those casings. Any vibrations at highway speed? No vibrations. I've run it from BFE to "town" and back at 70+, just like regular tires. The tone is the only weird thing. It's not the regular MT hum/roar. Then again if I air them down to around 35 or 40 that will change or should I leave them at 50?
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Aug 5, 2009 15:44
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Braincloud posted:Or the fact you see them littering the highway everywhere. No thanks. I just found your website...wish I had found it Monday before leaving for Mt Baring. My buddies and I were going to climb it and one of them was going to base jump off it but we had no idea where the trail was. loving Honey Buckets! 
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Aug 5, 2009 19:23
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drat... those DO look good! I wouldn't have guessed they were retreads if you hadn't been telling us. On the tire front, score is now +1 for AI Jeepers, -1 for a poor buyer, and +$25 for me. After I asked you guys if the tires I was selling would fit an 07 Grand Cherokee, I told the guy who wanted them for his GC that they probably won't work. His response was "The guy at discount tire said they would, so I'll buy them." Cue 1 day later and I get an email. "I took them to the tire place and they won't fit without rubbing. The manager said he didn't know why the tech told me they would. Can I return them?" Being the nice guy I am, and because it was a little old guy and his wife, I said sure, bring them back to me and I'll refund your payment. He brought them back today and insisted I take $25 for the trouble. I tried to refuse, but his wife got involved. "Take it! He'll never learn if it doesn't cost him something!" Now I feel twice as bad for the old man. Bald tires and a harpy wife.  Ah well... 15 more customers like that and I will be able to just give them away.
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Aug 5, 2009 21:43
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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:No vibrations. I've run it from BFE to "town" and back at 70+, just like regular tires. The tone is the only weird thing. It's not the regular MT hum/roar. Then again if I air them down to around 35 or 40 that will change or should I leave them at 50? I run 40 in mine and everything is hunky dory. but if your running ok at 50 I'd say just leave it. Or air down to 45
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Aug 5, 2009 21:52
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KickStand posted:I run 40 in mine and everything is hunky dory. but if your running ok at 50 I'd say just leave it. Or air down to 45 50 seems high for me for Goodyear radials, especially if it's load range E on a Jeep. Those tires are OEM for 6500-12,000 lb H1's and the recommendation for MT/MTR for pavement is 24 psi front 27 psi unloaded and 35/40 psi for max load GVW. Those are 37" MTR's. I think going 35-40 would be fine at highway speeds. I'd drive over a bit of water on a flat paved surface and check your tread pattern vs voids and see if your tires have full contact. Keep in mind going at highway speeds, your psi will increase by 5-7, so if you are at 50psi, you'll be at 55-60 psi after a bit of highway driving. I can see a big rear end military truck requiring high psi, but a jeep? I think 35-40 psi would be ok.
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Aug 5, 2009 22:48
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Philip J Fry posted:I just found your website...wish I had found it Monday before leaving for Mt Baring. My buddies and I were going to climb it and one of them was going to base jump off it but we had no idea where the trail was. loving Honey Buckets! Ha ha ha ha! Nice. Yes, that's one hell of climb up there. I would definitely choose to jump off over hiking back down. It is, however, worth the scramble! edit: Wow, I need to finish adding stuff to that site Braincloud fucked around with this message at 01:43 on Aug 6, 2009 |
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Aug 5, 2009 23:52
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Does anyone here tow with their XJ/Wrangler 4.0? Do you tow in OD or 3? Today my XJ overheated on me while towing, and someone in NAXJA seems to think it was because I was towing in OD, while in that same forum people say it's fine towing in OD as long as you're not going up any hills......Is it feasible for hot tranny fluid to heat up the engine coolant through via tranny cooler and consequently overheating the coolant?
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Aug 6, 2009 00:49
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leica posted:Does anyone here tow with their XJ/Wrangler 4.0? I do- How much are you towing? What overheated? By how much? Towing in OD is only usually a problem on hills. This is because when towing up hills your torque converter will keep unlocking and your transmission will be searching for the right gear to be in (it will keep shifting from 3rd to 4th and back to 3rd). This can absolutely cook your tranmission since when your TC is unlocked it generates heat about the same as riding a clutch in a manual. This is why towing heavy loads (usually 2000+lbs) in hilly areas requires an auxilary transmission cooler. Unless you have a full tow package, your tranny fluid currently goes through your radiator to cool, but it can only cool down as much as your engine coolant. Do you have the auxilary (electric) fan in your XJ? I've towed my 2000+lb boat up and down mountains and never had a heat issue with the engine. Granted my A/C is busted so that's never on making more heat. Is your coolant good? Thermostat working? My XJ is normally at ~210 degrees when fully warmed up.
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Aug 6, 2009 00:59
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I have the towing package with tranny cooler. Also have the electric fan. my camper is just under 2k dry, but we were fully loaded with two adults, two children and all the gear to go with it, so I'm guessing about 3k total. I also had the A/C on when it happened. Engine overheated, don't know by how much because I have the idiot light (SE) instead of the proper gauge. The overflow didn't spill coolant until I pulled over, so I'm hoping I didn't do too much damage. It seemed to be having a hard time towing from the start, took a long time getting up to speed (65mph) do I need to work my way up to speed in 3 before shifting to OD? And is it obvious when the trans is searching around, because I didn't notice it otherwise I would have downshifted to 3. Also I have recently replaced the thermostat and flushed the cooling system.
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Aug 6, 2009 01:34
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leica posted:I have the towing package with tranny cooler. Also have the electric fan. I towed my 2000+lb boat from Eastern Mass to upstate NY with my XJ near memorial day - anyone who has done that trip knows it's about as taxing on a tow vehicle as anywhere. Long, steep inclines up mountain sides. You'll know when the transmission is searching because the RPMs will keep bouncing (exactly the same as when you step on it to pass someone, that 2 leaps in RPMs then 2 drops in RPMS - the first is the TC unlocking and the second is a downshift). From the sound of things just your engine overheated. How long were you running before it overheated? If it was a long time I'm guessing you either have too little coolant or something else is wrong with your cooling system. The engine should be fine towing 5000lbs which you were nowhere near. Also, Transmissions start to "slip" when they overheat - you would notice this so if it didn't happen it's pretty safe to say your tranny is fine, and focus on your engine. I've never overheated a 4.0 before. I've pulled some heavy poo poo for long distances too (2500lb car + 750lb dolly + me, my wife, and all her poo poo for college from CT to OH (across the mountains of I-80 in PA). But the other guys on this thread can probably give you better advice on it's limits. I've had 2 I-6 Jeeps and both have had the full instrument panel and never have I seen the temp gauge get over the 230-240 region.
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Aug 6, 2009 02:56
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fordham posted:From the sound of things just your engine overheated. See, that's what I thought, but some dude in NAXJA seems to think that because I was towing in OD I overheated the engine which i kind of find hard to believe. The trans was doing fine honestly, I went up one hill which was a big hill but gradual climb, not very steep, and the trans downshifted once.....Although it was at the top of the hill when it overheated so who loving knows. I really need to get a real gauge cluster with a tach and temp gauge, this SE cluster blows. Who the gently caress puts temp idiot lights on cars anymore?
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Aug 6, 2009 03:08
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leica posted:Also I have recently replaced the thermostat and flushed the cooling system. How recently? Maybe you still have air in the system?
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Aug 6, 2009 03:23
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Over a year ago, not that recent, but recent for a thermostat. Now I'm starting to wonder if I have the correct temp stat in there..... also, it runs perfect normally, it's only done this to me while towing although i wonder if the load just brough a problem to the surface. Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 03:36 on Aug 6, 2009 |
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Aug 6, 2009 03:27
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leica posted:also, it runs perfect normally, it's only done this to me while towing although i wonder if the load just brough a problem to the surface. This is what it sounds like to me - did you replace the thermostat yourself?
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Aug 6, 2009 15:42
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Yeah, awhile ago but I have no clue what temp it was. I could have got the wrong temp thermostat without knowing it, I've read on NAXJA that XJ's are finicky when it comes to messing around with different temp stats. I think it needs to be 195.
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Aug 6, 2009 16:25
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leica posted:Yeah, awhile ago but I have no clue what temp it was. I could have got the wrong temp thermostat without knowing it, I've read on NAXJA that XJ's are finicky when it comes to messing around with different temp stats. I think it needs to be 195. This sounds more likely than towing in OD overheating your engine. I'm pretty sure towing in OD will destroy your tranny long before your engine overheats, but someone else on these forums would be able to tell you better than I. I've only done boats and UHaul trailers.
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Aug 7, 2009 01:55
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How far off is this guy asking price wise? http://wenatchee.craigslist.org/cto/1276984822.html
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Aug 7, 2009 21:29
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15" wheels on a JK jeep. What backspacing do I need to clear the calipers ? These: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRR-3975850/ are 4" backspacing. Will they stick out enough ? Also, someone was mentioning crazy good deals on 2.5" lifts (or 2 or 3 or something). Maybe a rough country lift. Were these for the JK ? It was probably a couple months ago in this thread.
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Aug 7, 2009 22:25
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n8r posted:How far off is this guy asking price wise? Not sure about your area, but in general, he's asking retail price. PP value for that should be between $3000 and $3800 according to KBB.
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Aug 7, 2009 22:26
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Doctor Zero posted:Not sure about your area, but in general, he's asking retail price. PP value for that should be between $3000 and $3800 according to KBB. I'm blaming the CARS/Clunkers for cash program, hey they're getting 3500-4500 for their jeeps on trade in! Of course I can't figure out the logic there. Of course the game with craigslist is to ask for a lower price. It's expected, when I list items on craigslist I mark it up a bit expecting people to haggle. Big K of Justice fucked around with this message at 02:24 on Aug 8, 2009 |
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Aug 8, 2009 02:14
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Doctor Zero posted:Not sure about your area, but in general, he's asking retail price. PP value for that should be between $3000 and $3800 according to KBB. I'm seeing a '98 Cherokee and his asking price is $3850 (which I think can be haggled down to $3500). It's pretty much perfect for what I want but I'm guessing it's the right price?
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Aug 8, 2009 05:08
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jonathan posted:15" wheels on a JK jeep. What backspacing do I need to clear the calipers ? I have seen most folks say you need 3.5" to 3.75" on the Cragar Soft 8s in order to clear the caliper. The posts I have seen from folks who bought them with 4" and still needed to grind the calipers. Rough Country has a basic 2.5" spacer lift for the JK $139.00. Pretty easy to install too. You will need to add in some longer drop links for your sway bar. You can just buy longer rear links and move your stock rear links to the front, or you can spend more and buy a set of quick disco links. All depends on how much you have to spend. $69 for the basic rear links, up to $400 for a full set of discos depending on how fancy you want to go. You may also want to get a rear trackbar relocation bracket... $39. Some folks insist it is needed and and some folks said it isn't. My lift had some extra height with new springs and shocks, so I got the bracket.
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Aug 8, 2009 14:10
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Steiler Drep posted:I'm seeing a '98 Cherokee and his asking price is $3850 (which I think can be haggled down to $3500). It's pretty much perfect for what I want but I'm guessing it's the right price? That seems more reasonable, but I fail to see how new brakes and tires are options. I mean, would he sell it to you without them for $2500? 
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Aug 8, 2009 19:43
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DILLIGAF posted:I have seen most folks say you need 3.5" to 3.75" on the Cragar Soft 8s in order to clear the caliper. The posts I have seen from folks who bought them with 4" and still needed to grind the calipers. Thanks for the info. Any idea if the Pro Comp/Rock Crawler 3.75" BS wheels fit ? I've read the cragars are really close. I can get the pro comps locally, but if it's that close with the cragars, who knows if the pro comps will fit.
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Aug 8, 2009 23:08
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jonathan posted:Thanks for the info. Any idea if the Pro Comp/Rock Crawler 3.75" BS wheels fit ? I've read the cragars are really close. I can get the pro comps locally, but if it's that close with the cragars, who knows if the pro comps will fit. I am pretty sure I saw those exact wheels in a thread, guy was running them with no problem. He said The 3.75 backset didn't rub at all. If ProComp is local to you, you should be able to jack your Jeep up and test one right there, see if they fit before you buy.
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Aug 8, 2009 23:27
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I went out shopping for a new ride with my wife, fully intending on getting a Jeep Wrangler. She said "HELL NO, IT'S NOT A FAMILY CAR!" and we came home with a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited instead. I have to say though, it's loaded with all the crazy poo poo inside and it's a pretty nice ride. I get to buy a Wrangler next, so it's not all bad.
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Aug 11, 2009 06:21
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monkeyboy posted:I bought the soft upper sliders this year for my 92 YJ, and I like them. A small leak at one of the metal/material seams, but everything else is fine. I usually hit the trails at Brown's Camp in Tillamook State Forest, but I'm actually in West Salem most of the time. I think I just got the cheapest grab handles possible. The stitching is what failed on them. When I get a chance, I'll re-stitch it and it'll probably last forever. I was driving the other day and the straps on my rear diff yoke broke off, shearing the bolts with them. The little tab on the yoke that holds the U-joint in place had broken off, which was causing my vibration. The driveshaft and t-case slip yoke fell out onto the road and slid behind me. When I got out, the driveshaft was sitting exactly where it should have been, only on the ground. I was able to rig it back together by pounding on one of the old straps until it created a lip, and I just slipped a U-joint end clip in there. It works great, at least until I find a new yoke.
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Aug 12, 2009 22:17
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