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Does anyone know what type/size socket you need to loosen the tensioners when you change the belts on an E36 M3?
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Aug 5, 2009 04:45
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BossTweed posted:Does anyone know what type/size socket you need to loosen the tensioners when you change the belts on an E36 M3? For what its worth, my E36 328i needs a 10mm hex for the A/C belt tensioner and a 1/4" hex for the main tensioner. Actually one or both of those may be a star but I used those hexes just fine.
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Aug 5, 2009 04:48
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BossTweed posted:Does anyone know what type/size socket you need to loosen the tensioners when you change the belts on an E36 M3? I don't believe you use a socket, I remember just using an allen wrench on my brother's 99 M3.
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Aug 5, 2009 04:48
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Thanks, it looked like it was a hex/allen socket/wrench in the pictures on the pelican parts DIY. I don't have the car yet but it needs new belts when I get it, so I got the belts and I'll take a couple tools with me. I am flying to Philly to get it on Thursday and driving it home to Atlanta over the weekend, stopping in NYC and Washington DC on the way back to see some friends. It should be awesome. BossTweed fucked around with this message at 05:12 on Aug 5, 2009 |
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Aug 5, 2009 05:09
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Kenshin posted:So I'm probably going to buy this: Drive the whole way back up the 101 till you hit Astoria. It's awesome.
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Aug 5, 2009 18:40
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BraveUlysses posted:Drive the whole way back up the 101 till you hit Astoria. It's awesome. The guy is picking it up from the mechanic (had part of the radiator replaced or something) and they did a pre-sale inspection. I need to see the inspection result but he said the thing they'd mentioned is that it will need the shifter bushings replaced soon. He didn't know off-hand how much that would cost. Anyone know how much it should cost to replace the shifter bushings on a '99 M3?
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Aug 5, 2009 19:31
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Kenshin posted:Looks like I might have just snagged a different one locally for $8000--the one I test drove Sunday evening. If you can do it yourself, probably sub-100 to replace all the wear parts. I suggest adding in 25 bucks for fancy delrin carrier bushings, or getting your own machined. For a shop? Probably double that, depending on what they think they need to pull. Bare minimum exhaust + heatshield removal, and they may want to drop the driveshaft as well, I'm not sure about access on an e36.
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Aug 5, 2009 21:52
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Crustashio posted:If you can do it yourself, probably sub-100 to replace all the wear parts. I suggest adding in 25 bucks for fancy delrin carrier bushings, or getting your own machined.
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Aug 5, 2009 21:56
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Just pick up a UUC evo3 short shift kit and it comes with all the replacement bushings. Dunno about install prices but if you're on bimmerforums there's a local member, flood, who does good shadetree work. I'd suggest heading over to the nw region forum on bf.c and look at a nice 96 or 97 328 vert with a full m3 conversion that's for sale at 6k right now. Looks very very clean.
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Aug 5, 2009 21:57
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Welp, just replaced the final stage unit. That did the trick, the blowers work just fine now! Took maybe 15 minutes. The instructions I was following made things more complicated - they said to remove the speaker and the light completely, when unplugging them worked just fine. No reason to remove the OBDII port or the foot shield, either. They also said to remove the foot duct, which wasn't necessary. I don't even have very small hands, I just needed a stubby screwdriver. The new FSU was only $45.65 at RMEuropean! And it was a Behr, which was what the one I removed was.   Old and busted on left, new and fly on right
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Aug 6, 2009 02:00
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Ok, so I now own a black 1999 M3 Convertible (manual transmission). Not bad for a first car I guess. 
Kenshin fucked around with this message at 02:36 on Aug 6, 2009 |
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Aug 6, 2009 02:17
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Kenshin posted:Ok, so I now own a black 1999 M3 Convertible. Good start, I started with a 1989 240SX automatic  I'm on my 3rd BMW now though, that car's going to ruin you on everything else
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Aug 6, 2009 02:19
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 Best $$$ I've spent on my E36 so far - they are worlds better looking than the yellowed, hazy plastic stockers. Went with no angel eyes, 35w and 5,000k. Bright as hell with a slight blue hint. Decent cutoff line too. I need to adjust these down as I've got them pointed way too high up right now. The quality of the plastic behind the excellent glass enclosure was very good - thick, sturdy, and unlikely to snap or break during install. I highly recommend these over the Depos! Gas Break Dip fucked around with this message at 06:16 on Aug 6, 2009 |
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Aug 6, 2009 06:12
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Um, yeah, if I can ask a really stupid question: what grade of gas should I be putting in this thing? ('99 M3) I forgot to ask the guy I bought it from what he put in it and he's on a bike trip now.
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Aug 6, 2009 22:00
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Look in the owner's manual, put in whatever it says to.
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Aug 6, 2009 22:17
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Kenshin posted:Um, yeah, if I can ask a really stupid question: what grade of gas should I be putting in this thing? ('99 M3) I forgot to ask the guy I bought it from what he put in it and he's on a bike trip now. When I bought it, the mechanic that worked with it told me to always use premium. He also said to change the oil after ever 2000 miles. So he may be exaggerating.
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Aug 6, 2009 23:28
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Kenshin posted:what grade of gas should I be putting in this thing? ('99 M3) Premium.
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Aug 6, 2009 23:44
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Left rear window regulator gave out yesterday and I'm going on a trip tomorrow, so $150 stealership price ($85-100 online if only I could have waited) later I had a new one. For anyone needing to do this or expecting to need to in the future, let me say it's one of the easiest things I've fixed on this car. Using this guide I did it in about an hour, and now having done it once I figure I could probably do it again in under 15 minutes providing the drat weather seal cooperates.
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Aug 7, 2009 04:26
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wolrah posted:Left rear window regulator gave out yesterday and I'm going on a trip tomorrow, so $150 stealership price ($85-100 online if only I could have waited) later I had a new one. For anyone needing to do this or expecting to need to in the future, let me say it's one of the easiest things I've fixed on this car. Using this guide I did it in about an hour, and now having done it once I figure I could probably do it again in under 15 minutes providing the drat weather seal cooperates. Must be nice not having to drill out any rivets 
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Aug 7, 2009 04:31
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I swear those window regulators are designed to fail regularly (planned-obsolescence by BMW) to help service centers make more money. It's one of those repairs that SEEMS daunting to non-DIY types but trivially easy to the rest of us. After doing three on my E46 and one on my E36, I firmly believe the parts are simply designed to fail. Anyone willing to make a lifetime-warrantied regulator could probably sell 1000 of them a year.
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Aug 7, 2009 04:37
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CornHolio posted:Must be nice not having to drill out any rivets Hah I had to do that when I replaced the glass on my Crown Vic. Not fun.
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Aug 7, 2009 04:49
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Yeah, e36 and earlier cars use scissor-style window regulators that are attached with rivets. They're a bit of a pain. As for the e46, it is indeed a simple job. Just make sure you sealed the vapor barrier properly; especially the bottom half. If you're in a wet part of the country that thin piece of foam is absolutely necessary in keeping water out of your car. Any tears in the foam or voids in the butyl tape may cause leak issues down the line. Just a heads up.
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Aug 7, 2009 05:07
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Gas Break Dip posted:
Post pictures man! I want to see the result! 
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Aug 7, 2009 17:52
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peterjmatt posted:Any tears in the foam or voids in the butyl tape may cause leak issues down the line. Crap, I did tear the foam a bit at the bottom. Guess I'm going to be popping the plastic back off and adding some foam tape or something similar tonight. General question on the regulators, is it worth taking apart the other three doors and regreasing the sliding bit, or is the failure more of an age thing rather than the stress of a sticky slide?
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Aug 7, 2009 18:08
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I'm starting to get pretty fuckin' bummed about the wear on my seat, it just gets worse and worse every day    I've been restoring the car bit by bit over the last few months and the interior is pretty much pristine outside of this, and I really have no idea how to fix it. I've looked for replacement seats but apparently my interior color (parchment/pergament) is somewhat rare. Even if I got one of those shady looking kits to fill in the cracks and then color match, the area where the stitching is coming undone would still be unsolved. Anyone ever fixed up their seats before and have some advice?
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Aug 8, 2009 02:40
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Ha, my seat wear is way worse. I'm just going to get some seat covers. I could replace the seats but they are just seats...
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Aug 8, 2009 03:25
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wolrah posted:Crap, I did tear the foam a bit at the bottom. Guess I'm going to be popping the plastic back off and adding some foam tape or something similar tonight. Periodic lubing is definitely a good idea on the older scissor regulators, but it's not going to help on the newer cable driven ones. They break due to the plastic bits getting brittle. Usually they break at the point where the drive cable snaps into the carrier bracket. There's nothing I know that will prevent that. I suppose you could try reinforcing the bracket with epoxy, but my guess is that something else would end up failing anyway. They're just a crappy design.
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Aug 8, 2009 03:31
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(1999 e46 328I) So I had an interesting situation tonight: I went out to get something from my car before I left for a movie and my keyless entry thing didn't work. I got no response whatsoever. I unlocked the door with the key, opened it and of course the alarm went off. I figured maybe the battery had shorted, went inside to get the spare, and that's not working either. Once in, the car wont start, so we take another car to the movie. I get back, try the key and it unlocks and locks from 20 ft away and everything's hunky-dory. The car worked this morning too before this incident. Was my car hit by an EMP or something and just had to take some time to remember? Or is there some system that is now going haywire? I have to commute to work tomorrow morning so I hope this isn't going to be a common occurrence. If anyone knows what this is and how to fix it I would love to hear, as I need the car to work every morning.
Deceptor101 fucked around with this message at 06:20 on Aug 8, 2009 |
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Aug 8, 2009 06:18
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No loving joke someone left this note on my E30 tonightquote:"Hey, That seat is in my living room and I've been using it as a chair for the last two months. Ewwwwww.
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Aug 8, 2009 07:19
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Mr. Onslaught posted:I'm starting to get pretty fuckin' bummed about the wear on my seat, it just gets worse and worse every day At least you've got real leather
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Aug 8, 2009 13:54
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Mr. Onslaught posted:
The cheap solution is to get some seat covers and forget about it. The correct (and expensive) solution is to take it to an upholstery shop and get it fixed. Upholstery work (outside of simple tears and rips and basic redyes) is an art-form best left to professionals.
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Aug 8, 2009 16:24
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I've had my "new" 1996 325tds se for just over a week a week now. I had a blue 1994 325tds se until christmas when I wrote it off and stupidly repalced it with a '99 VW Bora which handled like a wheelbarrow full of puppies and kept breaking. I think the only thing I'll miss about the bora is having AC, but I live in scotland so it is hardly a necessity*.      It had 144k and a bit when I picked it up in Somerset, but i've done a bit over a thousand now between driving it back up to Stirling via central London (which was nowhere near as terrorfying as I expected) and running about this week. For those who aren't familiar it has a 143hp M51 turbo diesel engine, or at least that's what it was putting out back in 1996, but power and economy seems to be short on my old one so I'll need to check out what's up with that. I assume nobody else here will be familiar with the M51 engine (it was also used in range rovers and omegas) but if anybody is I might have some brain picking to do. It has a few issues though: When I went to leave my parents place last night, I suddenly realised I had no dipped beam, but sidelights, mains, and fogs were fine. Today after checking the bulbs I swapped relays 5(fog) & 6(headlight) around and suddenly it I have all lights working. Which is nice, but I'd like to know what the hell was the problem in the first place, since headlights are kinda useful. Any ideas? The miles/trip/service indicator is screwy as hell, is a new set of gauges a straight swap or will it need coded or anything? There might be an issue with the front suspension, since the pass. side tyre was overly worn on the inside, there was some (probably old) rubbing on the back inside of the arches. and the steering did feel a tiny bit loose. I think I might just do a refresh of anything that looks a bit worn on the suspension And it has a crappy Clifford concept 300 alarm which I'm just going to bin. I'm going to bin the clear corners for either smoked or orange ones, and a chip/wheels & tyres/suspension might be on the radar but then again I had my old tds for a year and never got round to doing anything but wheels. The optional M-spoke wheels it has are quite nice though, I don't fancy any other E36 or E46 wheels unless I find anything aftermarket that looks good in 17" I might just stick new rubber on what I've got. I had 18"s on the bora for a while and don't want to go that big again. *Edit: Oh and getting 47uk mpg in the bora while driving like a tit was nice... my old e36 only got 37 average but at least I had a smile on my face. I though about stretching to an e46 320d but from what i've read the only advantage for the extra £2000 would be better fuel economy. I paid £1120 for it on ebay, fyi. stump fucked around with this message at 18:57 on Aug 10, 2009 |
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Aug 10, 2009 18:47
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Mr. Onslaught posted:Anyone ever fixed up their seats before and have some advice? http://www.liquidleather.com/
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Aug 10, 2009 20:08
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My brother owns an 730 E38 with the M60 B30 engine. He's just purchased a Bentley service manual for the E38s which includes the 740, 745, 750 but contains no information about the 730. After spending hours trawling the internet this morning trying to find more specific information about it we haven't had any luck. Does anyone happen to know a service manual which does include the 730, or anywhere we might find more specific information about it?
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Aug 10, 2009 23:02
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Just got sent this by a photographer who was at an autocross a few weeks ago. The composition is really nice, so I figured I'd post it. The missing fog light was the victim of a particularly violent cone that jumped out at me during a previous event, and I have been too lazy to fix.
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Aug 11, 2009 02:09
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I just picked up an 2002 BMW M3 fully loaded. It's carbon black with BMW CSL wheels and the car is the best thing ever. Total love. I don't have pictures because I'm still in shock it's in the garage but I do have a question. The car has the CD player and Harmon Kardon sound system. The only issue is in 2002 they didn't have an aux input and now I have no real way to play my music off my iPod. Is there a kit or something an audio installer can do that isn't too pricey that will allow me to listen to my iPod once again or should I start burning the CDs?
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Aug 11, 2009 05:43
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VibrioCholera posted:I just picked up an 2002 BMW M3 fully loaded. It's carbon black with BMW CSL wheels and the car is the best thing ever. Total love. As long as you don't have a cd changer or sirius radio installed you have a couple of options. BMW sells a factory ipod adapter for models after 2002, and there are quite a few after market solutions that take advantage of an open cd changer port. If you already have the multi-disc changer or satellite radio, then your only real choice is to switch out the head unit, but that usually ends up looking and sounding worse than the stock piece. The BMW adapter costs north of 300 with dealer install (if you're handy and have some tools you could install it yourself for under 200); the after market stuff can be under a hundred, or much more depending on what you go with.
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Aug 11, 2009 06:05
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peterjmatt posted:As long as you don't have a cd changer or sirius radio installed you have a couple of options. BMW sells a factory ipod adapter for models after 2002, and there are quite a few after market solutions that take advantage of an open cd changer port. I'm going to take a look at this. I wouldn't have too much of a problem doing any of this myself but I'm also kind of uneasy about tearing into this too quickly. I read the BMW FAQ on the unit and it sounds pretty nice but drat, $300. Also, I usually use my BlackBerry so the iPod adapter might just be an option that doesn't exist for me. I guess I COULD put my Touch to use and just leave it in the car. Thanks. VibrioCholera fucked around with this message at 06:28 on Aug 11, 2009 |
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Aug 11, 2009 06:22
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VibrioCholera posted:I'm going to take a look at this. So I would go to BMW for checking out their option and then any recommendation on brand and site? I do not have a CD changer or sat radio. I don't actually have a lot of experience with after market solutions, but they're fairly popular gizmos so I'm sure google could come up with some reviews and specifics. They all work similarly to the BMW one as far as I know; which is to say they take over the cd changer input. BMW also offers just a simple auxiliary audio input (3.5mm headphone jack type of port), but that doesn't allow for ipod control through the radio or steering wheel buttons. It's dirt cheap though. And yes, all the BMW parts can be bought and installed at any dealership- I'd check out Cartoys or whatever your local car audio chain may be for after market help.
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Aug 11, 2009 06:35
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Two Finger posted:My brother owns an 730 E38 with the M60 B30 engine. He's just purchased a Bentley service manual for the E38s which includes the 740, 745, 750 but contains no information about the 730. After spending hours trawling the internet this morning trying to find more specific information about it we haven't had any luck. Does anyone happen to know a service manual which does include the 730, or anywhere we might find more specific information about it? The M60 3.0 was used in the E34 530i as well (I think it's the same engine as your car) so you could pick up an E34 Bentley and work from that. I was in a similar situation with my E30 318iS. The E30 Bentley didn't cover the M42 engine, so I had to buy the E36 Bentley which did.
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Aug 11, 2009 14:56
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