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Richard Noggin posted:It's a top loader. Your only option is to leave the 18th century. (Can't remember ever taking one apart, can't help sorry)
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Aug 12, 2009 14:24
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Anyone know an easy way to find which part of a floor is flat and level without bringing a huge leveler. At my work our concrete flooring is unlevel as gently caress and makes it hard to level the furniture I'm building. I want to be able to find a spot that is level to work on but even the places with no cracks and stuff seem to still not be quite level.
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Aug 12, 2009 18:50
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Bag of marbles.
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Aug 12, 2009 19:27
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In the room in my new house, there's a window that faces in to the house which essentially amounts to just a hole in the wall. I want to plug it up in a way that will keep the amount of sound in and out of my room to a minimum. Will a simple lexan sheet work? I know it's MUCH cheaper than plexiglass...
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Aug 13, 2009 00:43
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Pooperscooper posted:Anyone know an easy way to find which part of a floor is flat and level without bringing a huge leveler. At my work our concrete flooring is unlevel as gently caress and makes it hard to level the furniture I'm building. I want to be able to find a spot that is level to work on but even the places with no cracks and stuff seem to still not be quite level. You're doing it the hard way. Drill some holes and screw some insert nuts into the bottoms of the legs with a big hex key, then use elevator bolts.
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Aug 13, 2009 02:18
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Jewbert Jewstein posted:Will a simple lexan sheet work? I know it's MUCH cheaper than plexiglass...
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Aug 13, 2009 03:43
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kid sinister posted:You're doing it the hard way. Drill some holes and screw some insert nuts into the bottoms of the legs with a big hex key, then use elevator bolts. Some our furniture has those and it nice that you can stop them from rocking but I was making a tall dresser a few days ago and the thing had a pretty major rock and I was tempted to loosen everything up while it was standing then tighten it but with how rocky and uneven our floor is I don't know if it would make it worse or not. I can use the levelers on the bottom of the legs but it still shouldn't need to have that much of an adjustment. Maybe I had two bad spots on the floor when I was building and when I put it out for display. This is like ikea furniture that you put together from instructions and poo poo.
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Aug 13, 2009 18:19
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Pooperscooper posted:Some our furniture has those and it nice that you can stop them from rocking but I was making a tall dresser a few days ago and the thing had a pretty major rock and I was tempted to loosen everything up while it was standing then tighten it but with how rocky and uneven our floor is I don't know if it would make it worse or not. I can use the levelers on the bottom of the legs but it still shouldn't need to have that much of an adjustment. Maybe I had two bad spots on the floor when I was building and when I put it out for display. Why not build a torsion box table or platform and level that? That way you'll always have a level surface to work on.
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Aug 13, 2009 20:37
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Fire Storm posted:Lexan is CHEAPER than plexiglass? If that's the case where you are, go Lexan. The UV proofing would be a bonus. If you want to go all fancy and try making your own dual pane noise blocking window, use 2 pieces of different thicknesses to dampen sound (Guy was telling me about that when I got new windows on the house.) Upon further research, gently caress Lowes. They're about the same price according to google. Which is better in this case? And for this dual pane thing, do I just put one over the other? There's nothing else to it?
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Aug 13, 2009 23:42
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My apartment's caretaker needs one of her plants identified so that she can figure out if it is an annual or perennial, and whether it needs special care to regrow next year. I figured some gardeners here may be able to help me out. Here's some pictures:   Flowers come out of the middle of the vine or whatever, then die off as the growth continues upwards.
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Aug 14, 2009 01:19
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Jewbert Jewstein posted:Upon further research, gently caress Lowes. They're about the same price according to google. Which is better in this case? And for this dual pane thing, do I just put one over the other? There's nothing else to it? To do the dual pane thing, it would be a bit of work. Seperate the panes by about a quarter inch, get one piece whatever thickness you want and one piece either half or 2/3 as thick. HOW you make the frame is up to you. Easiest would be to get quarter/half inch square wood, get the plexi/lexan cut to the size of the hole, and cut the wood so the frame is flush with the lexan, glue/nail and pop it in. EXAMPLE: If the hole is 16" x 16" and you are using half-inch wood, cut 2 pieces 16" long and 2 pieces 15" long. If you want to be fancy, you can make a doweled butt joint, or nail the corners. Look at a regular double pane window to get a rough idea of what I am talking about. Slightly more difficult but better method would be to make a wood frame with grooves cut inside that hold the panes in place, which would be a little more like cabinet making. I know I am explaining this very poorly. If you are interested in this, I can MSPaint something that would at least give better details. Would this be worth it? Not a clue. Although now I am tempted to do that with the windows in my garage that need replacing. I am curious... is this in your actual house? There is a hole in the wall and this passed code? Can you give photos?
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Aug 14, 2009 04:01
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kid sinister posted:That link is nice, but it assumes that all your LEDs will have the same specs... Bringing this question back up for further discussion. The total ma necessary for my circuit is 320ma. I can find 300ma and 500ma very easily, but I really doubt a 12v 320ma Adapter exists. The adapter assumed 20ma for each LED, though, which I'm not 100% certain is even necessary. Is it save to just get the 300ma?
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Aug 14, 2009 17:14
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You want to go for the 500mA one for your 320mA load. As long as the current the adapter can provide is equal to or higher than your load, you will be fine.
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Aug 14, 2009 18:04
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Gorilla Salsa posted:Bringing this question back up for further discussion. The total ma necessary for my circuit is 320ma. I can find 300ma and 500ma very easily, but I really doubt a 12v 320ma Adapter exists. The adapter assumed 20ma for each LED, though, which I'm not 100% certain is even necessary. Is it save to just get the 300ma? No, you'd be running it over its specs which isn't safe and even if it was your LEDs probably wouldn't be as bright. I was able to find a 400mA one: http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&productId=213575& Here's an inline barrel jack that you can solder all the wiring for the LEDs to, that way you can always easily unplug the power adapter if need be: http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&productId=159506& kid sinister fucked around with this message at 18:14 on Aug 14, 2009 |
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Aug 14, 2009 18:06
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what are you talking about? You could run it with a 12V 500 AMP supply, the LEDs won't care because they won't draw more than their maximum current, which is 320mA.
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Aug 14, 2009 19:09
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Mthrboard posted:Why not build a torsion box table or platform and level that? That way you'll always have a level surface to work on. Thanks for the idea but that is definitely out of the league for where I work, we don't have the space, money, or time to have something like that.
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Aug 14, 2009 21:07
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nevermind, I figured out I was wrong...
kid sinister fucked around with this message at 15:03 on Aug 15, 2009 |
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Aug 15, 2009 02:36
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Fire Storm posted:Awesome helpful instructions
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Aug 15, 2009 05:34
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edit: ignore
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Aug 15, 2009 06:01
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kid sinister posted:I was talking about running 320mA-worth of LEDs at 300mA like Gorilla Salsa mentioned... So it's safe to buy a 500mA adapter then? EDIT: Mario posted:You want to go for the 500mA one for your 320mA load. As long as the current the adapter can provide is equal to or higher than your load, you will be fine. Okay. Gorilla Salsa fucked around with this message at 14:37 on Aug 15, 2009 |
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Aug 15, 2009 09:40
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I'm in the middle of a hideous remodel and I'm not sure what to use for tile backer on the floors. I've hired a tiler to lay down some nice travertine tiles, but he wants us to sort out the underlayment. I've heard great things about Schutler-DITRA and intend to go with that instead of traditional backerboard. Has anyone used this stuff before?
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Aug 15, 2009 16:21
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This may seem stupid but I have an old shower tub set up with two knobs for the tub and two for the shower (basically hot and cold for each). The valves are the old style valves that stick out like 3 inches with square ends. I cannot find replacement handles for these. Anyone have a good source? I tried tons of online places. Home Depot, etc. Everyone suggests I replace the valves but that would involve opening the wall which is not an option (or one I want to entertain). Please help! Showering with a wrench sucks!
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Aug 18, 2009 16:28
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Bedevere posted:This may seem stupid but I have an old shower tub set up with two knobs for the tub and two for the shower (basically hot and cold for each). The valves are the old style valves that stick out like 3 inches with square ends. I cannot find replacement handles for these. Anyone have a good source? I tried tons of online places. Home Depot, etc. Everyone suggests I replace the valves but that would involve opening the wall which is not an option (or one I want to entertain). I'm in Australia, but I know the ones you mean. A lot of the older style fittings have been discontinued. If you are lucky you can sometimes find handles at big hardware stores. You have two options if you can't find handles to fit the old style. one) replace the spindles. You say this involves opening the wall, but shouldn't really. You should be able to get a tube spanner that will fit over the spindle, and unscrew the assembly (remembering of course to turn off the water and empty the pipes first). Then it is just a matter of putting new spindles in, which will of course have the new standardised ends and take any range of handles. two) get a conversion kit. These are kits which generally contain a variety of little plastic nubbins that fit on the end of your spindle to convert them for use with new tap handles.
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Aug 18, 2009 17:16
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I was hoping to avoid removing the spindles. Last time I tried that i messed up the whole faucet. I didn't know about the adapters. That's a great idea.
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Aug 18, 2009 17:43
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option 3: get universal handles. These are basically handles with 3 set screws around the outside and are designed to grab onto any size or shape of valve stem.
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Aug 19, 2009 12:23
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kid sinister posted:option 3: get universal handles. These are basically handles with 3 set screws around the outside and are designed to grab onto any size or shape of valve stem. Ahh, good point, I forgot about those. The only problem I've found with those is it's very easy to strip the threads on the grub screws, so make sure you don't crossthread them.
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Aug 19, 2009 15:11
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I need some drywall advice. I'm refinishing my family room, which was previously covered in hideous and shoddy wood paneling, and the plan is to drywall the whole thing. Most of the walls are framed, but the lower portion of two of the exterior walls is the above ground foundation. Is it necessary to build frames before installing drywall (which would cause the lower half of the wall to jut into the room by an absurd amount), or can the sheets be attached directly to the cement? If the issue is just the drywall making contact with the cement, would it be sufficient to use thin furring strips for separation? Thanks. 
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Aug 19, 2009 17:40
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Paradoxish posted:I need some drywall advice. Wait a minute, the previous owner just put wood paneling directly against your concrete foundation without even a moisture barrier? That's a bad idea... Put up a moisture barrier first! Yes, you would need frame out those concrete walls, for a couple reasons. The first you mentioned: you need something to attach the drywall to. The second is that concrete isn't a great insulator. For living space you will definitely want to put some insulation against that exterior wall. How much insulation you need depends on where your house is located. How thick your studs need to be depends on how thick your insulation that you'll need has to be. Use pressure treated lumber for the bottom plate since it will wick moisture. If budget allows, use it for all the framing. Use shims behind the studs to bring them all to a level surface if necessary.
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Aug 19, 2009 20:01
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Can anyone tell me the best way to clean this abominable thing? [img]http://img.waffleimages.com/0b47a47eff58bba1d4f8009b88ec7f66c1906cd2/082309_1848[00].jpg[/img][img]http://img.waffleimages.com/c7cd64296e0ecbd5925c74367ca88b3305c21118/082309_1850[00].jpg[/img] Sorry for the piss poor pictures, but I'm out of a digital camera at the moment. I don't think this window unit has ever been cleaned, and I haven't been able to find any thing resembling a model number to look up a manual or user guide so I have no idea how to take it a part to get inside of it to clean it. Short of breaking it open, I don't know what to do. I've sprayed mildew remover inside of it and wiped off what I could, but I don't have a way of scrubbing the inside. I recently moved in to a house that wasn't cared for at all by the previous tenants, and the land lord had it vacuumed and repainted, but that's about it. I've already gotten sick within two weeks of moving in and I'm going to blame this thing.
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Aug 24, 2009 00:04
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That front cover should come off fairly easy, so that's what I would do. Take it apart and use a vacuum for most of it and toothbrush/pipe cleaners for the harder bits.
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Aug 24, 2009 01:45
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I'm looking to install a shower door. I've gotten everything I need and here is what I've gathered. Step one: Measure the width of the bath tub and cut the top and bottom of the frame to fit. Step two: Install the sides. Using a level put the sides on. Use a pencil to mark the holes then drill a pilot and put the side on using plastic hollow wall anchors. Step three: Put the bottom and top in. They seem to just go right on. Step four: Caulk all joints. I'm very uneasy about this part since I've never caulked anything before. I am going to put down painter's tape around everything I caulk to be safe. I'm going to apply a bead then go back over and smooth it out with a plastic tool that I bought. Then instantly pull the tape up when I finish each joint. Does this sound right? Is there anything else I need to know? I'm kind of nervous but I'm still eager to start this.
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Aug 24, 2009 02:18
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Looking to buy a dremel (rotary tool, whatever you call them these days) soonish, and I'm after model/make suggestions. I'm going to be using it mainly for computer case modding, but it could see some wood work in the future (which would actually just be a wood case.. I see a trend.)
Gibbo fucked around with this message at 14:19 on Aug 24, 2009 |
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Aug 24, 2009 14:00
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Gibbo posted:Looking to buy a dremel (rotary tool, whatever you call them these days) soonish, and I'm after model/make suggestions. I'm going to be using it mainly for computer case modding, but it could see some wood work in the future (which would actually just be a wood case.. I see a trend.) SPend the money up front to get a high-end model. Mine is one-speed, basic, and I am wishing I spent the extra $20-25 to get the variable speed one. No particular reason, it's just I can see where sometimes it would be better to have a choice. Dremels are really handy, and the low-power aspect is a plus, because there's a limit to how much damage you can accidentally do when you screw-up and hit your hand, or forearm, or leg, or whatever. You never get too hurt, and I am a lot more comfortable letting my kids use it (with supervision) when they want to do stuff. Wear eye protection, though. When cutting metal, it throws off these tiny sparks that you don't see...
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Aug 24, 2009 19:04
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More dangerous is the cut off wheel exploding. On a larger scale, I had an angle grinder blade break up and the disc wizzed past my ear. GIS angle grinder injury if you want to see what can happen when one the disc lets go. Dremel tool discs can do this too, just on a smaller scale. Still enough to take out your eye.
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Aug 25, 2009 01:15
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You guys were so darn helpful before I'll ask another question! I'd like to do some drilling into metal but my little hand held drill doesn't seem to cut it. Do I need a special drill bit or is there a technique or some kind of god I need to make a blood sacrifice to? When I try it just sort of spins and doesn't go anywhere.
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Aug 27, 2009 15:51
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FamousThomas posted:You guys were so darn helpful before I'll ask another question! Your standard twist drill bit will work, but I'm betting you've got one made of a cheap metal. Get yourself a cobalt bit and it'll burn right through your metal. (Assuming of course you're not drilling into a steel beam or anything.)
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Aug 27, 2009 15:58
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FamousThomas posted:You guys were so darn helpful before I'll ask another question! Jake is right, get a cobalt steel bit. The bit you have is most likely high speed steel (HSS), which dulls quickly when used to drill steel. Cobalt bits are pretty pricey, but you should only need to buy one and not a complete set.
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Aug 27, 2009 17:14
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FamousThomas posted:You guys were so darn helpful before I'll ask another question! Even with your somewhat dull HSS bit and especially with a new bit, a bit of cutting fluid goes a long way at prolonging bit life. Effective cutting fluids are: cutting oil, household oil (3-in-1), distilled water. Not effective cutting fluids are: used motor oil, WD-40, Dr. Pepper.
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Aug 27, 2009 20:25
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Hello! I am trying to hook up these lightboxes I got a hold of from a recently closed cinema, All I got was the cable-snipped boxes so I need to re-do the wiring.  Click here for the full 800x1067 image. These are the bases of the cords currently snipped and fitted into the lightbox. I thought it'd be a matter of matching the colors of the new power cable I would get later, however upon returning home I noticed the wire colors are different between the cables:  Click here for the full 800x600 image. (note that is a green with yellow stripe cable) This is the type of cable I hope to attach. They are New Zealand power cables/supplies so the details may be different from those in the States or elsewhere. I've tried searching for a sort of conversion chart between the common wire colors but to no avail. If somebody could help me out with this I would be very appreciative. How should I go about rewiring this thing? Here's an image of the ballast if that helps:  Click here for the full 800x600 image.
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Aug 28, 2009 05:39
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| # ? May 12, 2024 08:37 |
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spanky the dolphin posted:Hello! Green/Yellow = Earth Blue = Neutral Brown = Live And I'd assume that Green = Earth, Red = Live, Black = Neutral, unless they've been wired up by an idiot.
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Aug 28, 2009 09:40
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