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wrok posted:My gut intuition tells me that we should crate him and clean up accidents, but will this make housebreaking impossible? Would it be better or worse to give him a room with newspaper, like a bathroom or kitchen, instead of just a crate? I'd crate him. My Boxer puppy has been crated right from day 1, and we've had a good number of accidents in the crate, but that's purely a case of her not having the bladder capacity to last long in there. It hasn't impacted her house training otherwise; she knows to go outside now and will pee on command when we take her out, and we rarely have any accidents in the house these days.
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Aug 12, 2009 13:30
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wrok posted:As previously mentioned a few posts back, my wife and I are getting a Weimaraner puppy, Roki, this Friday. I'd like to ask for some general feedback on our schedule and housebreaking 'plan' our new pup. We both work, but we've staggered our schedules and arranged for a dog walker to stop by mid-day. Roki will be alone from 8am to 10:30am, and then from 11:00am to 3:30pm. We have a few volunteers that might stop by during that afternoon period -- but none that we can count on 100%. I know, it's not perfect, but hopefully it's not too bad. The schedule sounds good to me, and about as good as a working couple can manage. Two weeks is better than one, but your schedule should make housetraining easy. Our Weims have always housetrained very quickly, so hopefully you'll have the same luck. Crate when you need to be gone, at night, and when you don't feel like supervising. The last thing you want to do is leave a puppy loose in your house. You ought to get an x-pen or play pen for the puppy to save you some sanity. Its a good compromise between confinement and giving the pup some space to play. Put it on a tile floor covered with a layer of newspapers and it should make it pretty easy to clean up any accidents, and will keep the pup away from your stuff. I don't recommend using a whole room as an alternative, because puppies will do crazy poo poo like chew up your baseboards, chew a hole into your drywall, or peel the wallpaper off the wall even if you've puppyproofed the room. One of the best puppy training books I've seen is You and Your Puppy. Good training games, and a walk-through guide of how to use tether-training to teach good behaviors. Tether-training has been hugely successful for my dogs, and I've used it with fosters and puppies that I dogsit for.
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Aug 12, 2009 16:43
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Domestic shorthair, approx. 11lbs., adult, active, spayed, no ongoing health issues, FeLV/FIV negative. Went to the vet today for constipation issues - the vet prescribed Laxatone and adding 1/2 teaspoon canned pumpkin in her food. Is there anything else that also helps ease up constipated kitties too? I'm going to try the pumpkin tonight but she's a total diva so she may retaliate. Also, she had supracaudal gland hyperplasia (stud tail). Vet told me that other than being itchy, it's a primarily cosmetic problem and that the most he can do is shave it down and give me cleanser. I read up on it and some people recommend cleaning the tail with gentle soap and drying it/combing it out thoroughly until it clears up. Will that help her be more comfortable? Thanks. 
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Aug 12, 2009 17:20
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dMastri posted:cat pants  to stop playing when he's totally exhausted? When is he due for his next vet checkup? I would just bring it up to the vet then, to make sure his heart and lungs sound totally normal. If he starts doing it more often or after less exercise, if he coughs/hacks frequently, or if you ever feel like his color is off (gums and toungue should be nice and pink, not significantly different from when he's not panting), I would go ahead and take him to the vet just to be safe.Spamdrogyne posted:Went to the vet today for constipation issues - the vet prescribed Laxatone and adding 1/2 teaspoon canned pumpkin in her food. Is there anything else that also helps ease up constipated kitties too? I'm going to try the pumpkin tonight but she's a total diva so she may retaliate. Also, ewww stud tail! Did he shave her tail? Did you have the pleasure of squeezing any huge blackheads out? (Probably not the best idea, but it can be hard to resist  ) If it's not bothering her a lot, I wouldn't do anything upsetting to try and fix it. Shaving the tail and cleaning it daily can certainly help (gently scrub with either mild soap or hydrogen peroxide is what we do where I work) just by keeping so much oily crap from building up. She may get less pissed off if you just wipe it with a rag rather than sticking her butt in the sink. Also if you're gonna comb it, I'd recommend doing that while she's dry. Especially with that coarse, oily hair on the tail, a comb can pull a lot on wet fur and most cats don't appreciate it.
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Aug 12, 2009 17:45
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Crooked Booty posted:The Laxatone and pumpkin will probably do the trick. If she won't go for the pumpkin, I wouldn't stress her out about it too much. There are lots of easy treatments for constipation, and it's a pretty common issue as cats get older. The Laxatone will probably fix it, but if not, your vet will have other options. She chews it on it some days, some days she leaves it be. I opted to skip out on shaving her tail *just* yet, since it hasn't proven to be too troublesome to her. I will try gently combing it while her fur is dry and keeping that spot nice and clean with a rag. I didn't want to do too much to her today - she gets so easily stressed out of the home that I wanted to minimize the time/horrors she had to go through today!
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Aug 12, 2009 22:54
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You can always mix the pumpkin with wet food. Our guy actually seems to like his wet food better with the addition of the pumpkin, but he won't eat the pumpkin by itself.
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Aug 13, 2009 00:33
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Magipp posted:Why does my cat have a bald belly? She doesn't lick the area obsessively or do anything that would wear away the fur, it's just this weird sudden bald patch. It's not really a problem, just kind of funny because she has a bit of the floppy belly thing going on too, and the two things combined make her pretty goofy looking at times My cat has this. The vet said it happens sometimes when they are shaved to get spayed, and the hair just doesn't grow back. You should still probably go to the vet and double check, but this is what I was told. I love it, she's got a peach fuzz belly!
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Aug 13, 2009 16:32
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My fat cat (20lb) Nesquik developed a bit of a cough the last few days. After waiting to see if it was a hairball he'd cough up, I took him to the vets yesterday. The vet was a bit concerned, and decided to do a full blood panel on him, in particular checking for kidney problems. Apparently nothing flagged up except something that indicated he is a bit dehydrated. The vet also wants a urine test, so I was told to lock Nes up in the bathroom with water and a litter tray with special non-absorbant litter. Problem now is that he's been in the bathroom almost 24 hours. He hasn't eat, drank, or peed, and I'm starting to get worried that he's going to give himself hepatic lipidosis or something. I'm at work but I've told my fiance to move him into a bedroom, and give him a bowl of cat milk and some dried food soaked in water to see if we can get him to take something. Any suggestions what I should do? We haven't resorted to force feeding him water with a syringe yet, but that's the next thing I'm considering  Picture of the fatty in question:  Update to this: he turned his nose up at the cat milk, and at a can of tuna as well. Helanna fucked around with this message at 11:31 on Aug 14, 2009 |
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Aug 14, 2009 10:25
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Helanna posted:Problem now is that he's been in the bathroom almost 24 hours. He hasn't eat, drank, or peed, and I'm starting to get worried that he's going to give himself hepatic lipidosis or something. I'm at work but I've told my fiance to move him into a bedroom, and give him a bowl of cat milk and some dried food soaked in water to see if we can get him to take something. If the vet wants you to keep trying at home, I'd consider letting him out of the bedroom supervised for a little while to see he'll eat something once he's not pouting about being locked up.
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Aug 14, 2009 15:31
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Crooked Booty posted:It seems like a real possibility to me that he's just upset about being locked up with funny litter.... try for a cystocentesis. He is indeed pretty annoyed at being shut up. He's a very social cat and hates being deprived of company. I popped home at lunch to see how things were going and he seems a bit happier in the bedroom; I persuaded him to lap up some tuna mixed in water, and a bit of soggy dried food. I think the vet isn't keen on doing a cystocentesis; he told me to force feed water with a syringe if Nesquik won't drink and keep trying to get him to pee in the tray His only other suggestion was to "let him out and try again later" which isn't going to achieve anything I think.Is it still easy to do that procedure on a fat cat? I wouldn't mind paying for the sub-q fluids and procedure if I was confident he wouldn't come away traumatised. He doesn't tend to sit very still when a needle comes towards him, and thats just normal vaccines/blood tests. He's probably just fine and all these blood/urine tests are pointless, but I want to be sure so we need that urine!
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Aug 14, 2009 16:06
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I'm curious if there's a thread about dobermans. I looked through the first 5 pages and didn't see anything. I ask because I just read the thread about APBT and I didn't realize the depth of knowledge and traits that go into breeds. Now, before anyone reprimands me for having a desire to get a pet before knowing a lot about it, I'm not the one who wants it. My girlfriend has shown interest in getting a dog (since she grew up with them), and she's alluded to a doberman. There is at least a year before either of us would be in a place at all to get a dog, so it's not going to be an impulse purchase/adoption, and it will clearly be her's so that if we break up, she would be the one keeping the dog. Now that those are out of the way, I'm curious to learn everything about them as I can, to make sure that if we decide to get a dog a year from now, that it's a dog with needs I'm willing to cater to and a temperment I'm willing to share a house/park/public setting with. For instance, I would not be comfortable with an APBT because of it's aggressive nature towards other dogs.
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Aug 14, 2009 16:11
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Helanna posted:I think the vet isn't keen on doing a cystocentesis; he told me to force feed water with a syringe if Nesquik won't drink and keep trying to get him to pee in the tray But then again, some cats just don't like needles, or maybe just freak out when they're restrained by strangers in a weird place. If he's eating watery food now, he's gotta pee eventually. Just keep an eye on him because some cats hate the tiny box and litter so much that they'd rather pee on bedding or carpet.  Fremry posted:dobermans Look for a doberman rescue in your area and go hang out with some dogs and talk to the people who run the rescue. Also go to a bigger rescue/shelter and check out other breeds and mutts. Don't get a puppy if you value your sleep, sanity, or relationship with your girlfriend. 
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Aug 14, 2009 16:46
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Crooked Booty posted:If you haven't read every word of the stickied Puppy FAQ yet, do that now and get your girlfriend to read it, too. There is a ton of valuable information there. Thanks. I did read the puppy thread, and I really don't want to get involved with a puppy. Personally, I'll be pushing for a relatively young (1-2 year old) mutt, but since she likes dobermans, I was just curious for a thread that weeds out the myths of them being vicious baby killers while being truthfull about the flaws in their temperment, just like the incredibly informative APBT thread.
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Aug 14, 2009 16:56
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Crooked Booty posted:Whenever we do cystos where I work while the client is waiting, they're like "how did you get him to pee on command?" and sometimes we opt to not explain the whole needle thing because people freak out. I always preferred that they did a cysto on Zeus when he was having urinary issues because it meant he did not have to spend so long being stressed out. For some reason once (when I saw a different vet than my normal one at that practice) they decided they really wanted to hold out for him to pee. I laughed and told them it wouldn't work. They kept him the whole day and wound up doing a cysto on him just before closing when he still hadn't peed. Zeus was very easy to handle at the vet's though. He loved attention so much it didn't matter to him who it came from. I think he was one of my vet's favorite patients just because he liked her, even though she poked him with things. He would give her hugs and rub his face on her and she would get the biggest grin. Fremry posted:Personally, I'll be pushing for a relatively young (1-2 year old) mutt, but since she likes dobermans, I was just curious for a thread that weeds out the myths of them being vicious baby killers while being truthfull about the flaws in their temperment, just like the incredibly informative APBT thread. We do not have an equivalent Doberman thread but there are people in PI who have experience with them and I'm sure if you made a thread asking about them we could help you out (both with Dobe specific info and general dog adoption info). I can tell you (although my experience with them is quite limited) that while Dobermans are not baby killers they can be challenging to own and are not great for first time owners. They are dogs with a strong protective streak, which can be both good and bad. They are large and intimidating (which will freak a lot of people out and can get you in trouble even if your dog does nothing wrong). They may also be on a lot of "banned breed" lists for various homeowners insurance policies, homeowners associations, and apartment complexes, which may make it harder for you to own one than to own some other breeds (especially if you rent). A good place to start for information about any breed is the breed club. For Dobermans (in the US) that is the is Doberman Pincher Club of America. The breed club will usually give you a very good description of the dog (both positives and negatives) and give you links to responsible breeders and breed rescues.
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Aug 14, 2009 17:29
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Ceridwen posted:
Thanks so much for this. That link definitely helped a lot. Immediately off the bat, I realized it wouldn't work for us in the near future. Knowing their needs and their personality, they seem like an awesome breed when/if we have some experience and own a home. Definitely not something in our future for at least a couple years.
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Aug 14, 2009 17:42
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Crooked Booty posted:Whenever we do cystos where I work while the client is waiting, they're like "how did you get him to pee on command?" and sometimes we opt to not explain the whole needle thing because people freak out. That's ridiculous. The clients deserve to know what you're doing with their pet when you take it into the treatment room. Things like this are why people are suspicious of vets/techs wanting to perform procedures with the pet in the "back room."
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Aug 14, 2009 18:35
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Lioness posted:That's ridiculous. The clients deserve to know what you're doing with their pet when you take it into the treatment room. Things like this are why people are suspicious of vets/techs wanting to perform procedures with the pet in the "back room." There are clients I would never, ever scruff a cat in front of, no matter how difficult the cat was being -- I would just take it to the back because the owner would have a fit otherwise. But if we need a blood sample in the back, that cat is probably going to get scruffed. It's in the best interest of the patient, and there are ignorant people in the world who would walk out of a clinic over their cat being restrained safely, to never seek veterinary care for their pets ever again. I certainly think that better communication and client education can make a huge difference in the quality of life for pets in general, but there are some people who would prefer not to know, and are better off not knowing the details. If a sane, stable client wanted to watch the doctor perform a cystocentesis on their pet, the doctor would probably be fine with that. I'm talking specifically about the crazies.
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Aug 14, 2009 19:18
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I wouldn't particularly want to watch a cystocentesis, but on the other hand I'm not overly keen on vets taking my cats into the "back room" after one of my vets botched a blood test and my poor white kitten came out with multiple wounds, and covered in blood. I have no idea how they managed it, but nowadays I make sure I'm present for blood tests. If anything the cats seem to behave better when its me restraining them gently, and not some vet tech they don't know scruffing them and scaring them more. On the plus side, I just got told that Nesquik finally gave up and had a huuuugge pee in the special litter, so the sample is ready to go to the vets as soon as they open
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Aug 14, 2009 19:38
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Crooked Booty posted:I said sometimes -- only in cases where the client would walk out the door, pass out, throw a tantrum, etc., and it's therefore in the patient's best interest that the client not know. Have you really never gotten those super squeamish clients who start tearing up when their pet gets vaccinated, can't look at a needle, and beg you to stop if you even begin to describe something having to do with guts or bacteria? I've always made it a point to tell the client what we'll be doing before we remove the pet from the exam room. I've never had a client refuse to send the pet back for a urine collection based on hearing that we may need to/are going to perform a cysto, or throw a tantrum or pass out or anything like that. I feel like it's always better to let the client know what is going to happen so that in the small chance that something happens to go wrong during any procedure it isn't a huge shock that the mean old vet and tech were back there putting a needle into Fluffy's abdomen. I'm not saying that anyone has to be that thorough about it, but if a client actually asks how you got urine from their cat I do feel like you should absolutely tell them the truth. quote:There are clients I would never, ever scruff a cat in front of, no matter how difficult the cat was being -- I would just take it to the back because the owner would have a fit otherwise. But if we need a blood sample in the back, that cat is probably going to get scruffed. It's in the best interest of the patient, and there are ignorant people in the world who would walk out of a clinic over their cat being restrained safely, to never seek veterinary care for their pets ever again. There's a difference between a restraint technique and an actual procedure, in my opinion. I'm not sure how that's relevant to whether a client deserves to know that their pet is getting a needle inserted into his or her abdomen.
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Aug 14, 2009 21:29
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I can't see how it's in the patient's best interest for the owner to be less than fully informed about the care their pet is receiving. Not only is it the vet's duty to give the client the information needed to make health care decisions for their pet in general, skipping around the details because you think the client can't handle it is one of the many ways distrust and misunderstandings develop between the client and the vet, and that does no one any good, vet, patient or owner. I know you're just talking about the details of a specific procedure here, but it is a very common one, and a very useful diagnostic tool that reasonable clients should consent to if they understand what it entails versus the benefits of doing the urine collection that way. If they don't want it done that way, it is their choice to use a less traumatic (from their viewpoint) method. I can't see the justification in not explaining the procedure when asked, or any other.
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Aug 14, 2009 23:01
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I have a quick question about my cat. His third eyelid (nictating membrane Google tells me) is now covering 3/4ths of both his eyes. He's definitely not having trouble seeing because he's been walking around a lot, but it's worrying me to see him look up at me and have his eyes glazed over. I've waited a day in hopes they would retract, but no luck. Can anyone well-versed in cat ophthalmology help me out and tell me if this is normal or if it's a sign of something to come?
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Aug 15, 2009 00:05
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Morose Moose posted:I have a quick question about my cat. His third eyelid (nictating membrane Google tells me) is now covering 3/4ths of both his eyes. He's definitely not having trouble seeing because he's been walking around a lot, but it's worrying me to see him look up at me and have his eyes glazed over. This indicates sickness (fever i think?). Vet time.
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Aug 15, 2009 03:40
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I for one have a cat who needs a urinalysis EVERY time he goes to the vet, and they frequently have to resort to the needle. I can tell you that if they had not explained this procedure to me beforehand and discussed the cost/benefit of it, as well as how safe and relatively painless it is, and then I had found out later about it, I would have gone absolutely apeshit. My husband is the same way, and he is about as trypanophobic as you get without becoming absolutely catatonic. I'm sure there are some squeamish people out there who would rather not know, but that's not really your decision. I've had doctors try to perform procedures on me without informing me of their exact nature to "spare" me. It is patently unethical to do to a human adult. In the case of a child, a parent must be fully informed. Likewise, with an animal, a human guardian should have full knowledge, or else you are betraying their trust in you. Frankly if I found out that ANY pet owner was deliberately not informed at my vet's office in this manner, I would not go back there.
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Aug 15, 2009 03:45
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My eight week old puppy has turned into a twelve week old monster. I've read as many guides as I could find online to try to help with these problems, but he doesn't seem to be phased by anything. I posted earlier about his mouthing which isn't an issue if I keep off the floor (he still bites the furniture though). However, he sometimes gets riled up/defensive and goes into attack mode. It could be in the middle of playing, or he could just be lying down and it'll happen. Out of nowhere he'll start growling at me and start biting my legs. If I try to push him away/hold him back he bites my hands/arms. He bites hard. He's drawn blood quite a few times. Pushing him away/holding him back only makes him growl more/bark and bite even harder. I've tried handing him whatever toy we were playing with (if we were), but he refuses to take it. I usually end up using the frisbee as a shield to block his advances. The only way I've found to stop it is to find a stick somewhere in the yard and hand it to him. My vet recommended standing still, but that doesn't seem to be working. He just keeps on biting like hell and it is painful. He also has started being a pain during lunch/dinner time. If I am preparing food he will bark at me. If we are eating dinner, he will not stop trying to jump on us/chairs/the table. He just barks and barks and barks. I've tried putting him on the leash and keeping it under my foot so that if he tries to jump, he corrects himself. On rare occasions this eventually works and he'll walk off to a corner and lie down. The only real solution we've found is to put him in his crate. I think we're going to have to move that to the other side of the house so we can eat without dealing with the really loud barking. Any ideas? I have him signed up for a Puppy Preschool class with CPDT that starts on the 24th. I'm hoping they can help out if I can't figure anything else out.
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Aug 15, 2009 18:45
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GI_Clutch posted:My eight week old puppy has turned into a twelve week old monster. I've read as many guides as I could find online to try to help with these problems, but he doesn't seem to be phased by anything. I posted earlier about his mouthing which isn't an issue if I keep off the floor (he still bites the furniture though). However, he sometimes gets riled up/defensive and goes into attack mode. When he bites you, scruff him and put him in an exercise pen for a time out. Using the crate for punishment can cause problems with crate training. You've got two options for the barking - ignore the barking completely, or punish it non-verbally with a spray from a spray bottle, or super-soaker. To teach him how to WANT him to behave, you've got to figure out what motivates him. Tether training is great, but you've got to reinforce the behavior you want. MoCookies fucked around with this message at 23:18 on Aug 15, 2009 |
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Aug 15, 2009 23:15
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My girlfriend and I's two-year-old Norwegian Forest cat is losing her eyebrow whiskers. Well, half of them. Kiely's right eyebrow whiskers have snapped off, leaving about half a centimeter sticking out of her face. She is otherwise totally normal--eating, peeing, pooping, playing, etc just fine. We would have assumed it was just a casualty from her playing with our other cat, Oscar, but its happened twice, this second time to her newly grown-in whiskers. Should we be worried? Bonus picture of the two of them (pre-whisker loss): 
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Aug 16, 2009 03:43
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drat Bananas posted:A question of my own: I don't live with my dad, but I just found out that they have a flea infestation among their 2 large cats, 1 tiny cat (like the size of a 4 month old kitten), and large dog. They accidentally put the large dog flea treatment on the tiny cat! They came home and she was having seizures, and rushed her to the emergency vet and everything, had to stay overnight, get an IV, all kinds of stuff. Since I don't live there and only got a brief run down over the phone, my mind is racing with nonsense "Yeah, but!! But!! BUT OMG KITTY!!" My mom accidentally did this to a cat of ours, and it did not end well. It was a few years ago now, but the cat spent a few days at the vet, went temporarily blind, and when she was finally well enough to come home was a total klutz. She regularly misjudged jumps, would fall off of things. It messed her vision up pretty badly. One time after that we tried putting cat flea-repellent on her, but she had apparently developed a hyper-sensitivity and had more seizures. After that, we no longer used flea-repellent on her. She only lived a few years after her accident, she died when she was 4 or 5; we had taken her to the vet for her yearly vaccinations, and she had a fatal heart-attack in the car on the way home (we paid for the post-mortem to be ascertain what had happened; the final word was "stress"). She died in my younger sister's arms as we raced back to the vet. Morgan was pretty badly messed up because of the dog flea-repellent. She lived a pretty decent life, but I wouldn't be surprised if the heart-attack was due to the dog meds too; I think she had major systemic damage.
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Aug 16, 2009 04:20
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cfuckface posted:My girlfriend and I's two-year-old Norwegian Forest cat is losing her eyebrow whiskers. Well, half of them. Kiely's right eyebrow whiskers have snapped off, leaving about half a centimeter sticking out of her face. She is otherwise totally normal--eating, peeing, pooping, playing, etc just fine. We would have assumed it was just a casualty from her playing with our other cat, Oscar, but its happened twice, this second time to her newly grown-in whiskers. Should we be worried?
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Aug 16, 2009 06:35
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Meow Cadet posted:Whiskers often break or get chewed off. This One of my foster kittens has really short whiskers at the moment, where one of the others in the litter chewed them off for him
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Aug 16, 2009 09:21
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Helanna posted:This They just want him to look his best 
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Aug 16, 2009 09:30
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Meow Cadet posted:No worries. Whiskers often break or get chewed off. They will grow back. That's not to say that it's ok to cut off cheekpad whiskers, but just let nature take its course. Oh good. Thanks!
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Aug 16, 2009 18:52
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Heya, so today my family picked up a Blue Heeler puppy and a kitten. My quick question is this: I know I've read that it's usually a good idea to raise a kitten with a second one, but I was wondering if, since there's a puppy around its age, if that rule would still apply? They've had a few encounters, and the kitten scared off the pup when it felt threatened, but it didn't seem like they hated each other. Thanks!
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Aug 17, 2009 00:18
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Why do people that breed/show dogs have extremely long names for their animals? Is there a pattern to it, or is it just a tradition for breeders? Example: I name my dog Fred, but a breeder would name him Hot Skillet Slap Nuts Los Angeles Purple Peek-a-Boo Landslide.
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Aug 17, 2009 15:12
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The Pell posted:Why do people that breed/show dogs have extremely long names for their animals? Is there a pattern to it, or is it just a tradition for breeders? I'll give examples of our 3 afghans and see if you can make sense: Joey, "CH Dragonfly's Neverwinter Nights RA" CH - Champion Dragonfly's - His breeder's kennel name "Dragonfly Afghan Hounds" Neverwinter Nights - What we picked for him because of his color mostly RA - Rally Advance title Reza, "BIE Mahar's Reza of Mihdian FCH, SC" BIE - Best in Event title Mahar's - Breeder's kennel name Reza - obv. of Mihdian - Co-owner's kennel name FCH - Field Champion title SC - Senior Courser title Soleil, "Watling Street Zarin Sun At D'Vangel" Watling Street - Breeder's kennel name Zarin Sun - "Gold of Allah" (The whole litter was "sun" themed and had to have sun somewhere in the registered name. Easy way to tell littermates when litters have themes.) at D'Vangel - Our kennel name So yes, there is a pattern. You can even protect and register your kennel name with the AKC and in the UK w/ the KC so other breeders can't use it in their registered name. The UK KC goes one step further w/ their naming conventions and it's pretty strict with the length and the ability to reference all dogs from a kennel.
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Aug 17, 2009 15:57
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The Pell posted:Why do people that breed/show dogs have extremely long names for their animals? Is there a pattern to it, or is it just a tradition for breeders? Any dog that is registered by a kennel club like the AKC has to have a long name because it's being entered inter a registry with EVERY OTHER PUREBRED DOG, pretty much. So basically, they can't all be "Rover". There are other elements that go into the names as well. First, the kennel the dog is bred from with generally use its name at the beginning. So lets say you're breeding dogs, and you name your kennel Dogsrun. The puppy "Rover" would then be "Dogsrun's Land Rover", with a call name of just Rover. Then, you have the kennel name, and a unique dog name. You can also take it a step further, and put the name of the kennel RECEIVING the dog, where it's going to live, grow up, be shown, and possibly eventually bred. So you're at Dogsrun and you're selling a show quality pup to the kennel Puppy Madness. The puppy would then be named "Dogsrun's Land Rover at Puppy Maddness". Breeders will often use these long, registered names to keep track of litters. They might give every litter out of their kennel a letter of the alphabet, and every dog will have to have a name of that letter. Or, they'll give each litter a theme that the name has to come from. Basically, the registration name is a useful tool, and also lots of fun. EDIT: drat you Satchiel for being faster and better than me! 
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Aug 17, 2009 16:04
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Also, back in the old days, people used to use their last name as their kennel name, ie. if your last name was Smithfield and your dog's name was Bluedog, you'd have "Smithfield's Bluedog." As kennels came and went, people died and more people came into dogs, Sally Smithfield in 1990 couldn't take "Smithfield Kennels" in Basset hounds because there was a Smithfield kennels back in 1910 that had famous dogs and went out of existence. So she's stuck making up some other kennel name; maybe she uses a composition of her name, "Sally Down Bassets" or maybe she used the area she lives in, "Lakeshore Bassets" or "Riverbend Bassets" or some other esoteric facet of her breed like "Enchante Bassets" or whatever strikes her fancy. So while they're still used to identify the kennels, sometimes they have nothing to do with descriptions of the people behind the kennels. I love the idea of using a lastname as a kennel name.
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Aug 17, 2009 17:07
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Thanks for the info! 
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Aug 17, 2009 18:41
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I've been arguing with my mom about her Sphynx cat. I told her the vets at work have talked to me about switching my cats to a wet diet, and I told her to do the same for her cat. I've only since learned about the reasons why recently, and I feel pretty guilty for being so ignorant. Anyway, my mom is outright refusing, saying that the cat gets enough water and that they need more water than other cats. Which of course doesn't make sense. I've explained to her that cats have a lower thirst drive so feeding wet food should be even more important to her, but she doesn't get it so will talk to her breeder who apparently knows more than all the vets at my animal hospital. Her breeder feeds a hairball formula dry food to all her cats. Not only that, but her cat is overweight and she doesn't believe me, and insists it in his breed to be overweight. How do I convince her otherwise? She won't listen to me. This is the lady who has a shepadoodle or whatever, the german shepherd/poodle holy terror mix. Meanwhile her poor shih-tzu is terrified of other dogs, and is being neglected.
Carebear fucked around with this message at 22:23 on Aug 17, 2009 |
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Aug 17, 2009 22:21
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Also another random question, does Allerpet work? http://www.allerpet.com/products/product3.htm
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Aug 17, 2009 23:21
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| # ? May 23, 2024 18:52 |
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Carebear posted:Also another random question, does Allerpet work? It worked for my friend's husband who is really allergic to cats. I think they mixed it with water and then put some on a cloth and wiped down one of my cats with success. bamzilla fucked around with this message at 23:36 on Aug 17, 2009 |
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Aug 17, 2009 23:33
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