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8ender posted:Can anyone reccomend some rear diff bushings that aren't hockey pucks? My impreza has the clunk, and I'd like to silence it, but it's a daily driver so I don't want to listen to my diff whirring along every day on my commute. I got a set for my Forester that were softer than the hard "Race," bushings they sold, and worked very well, but I forget the brand name 
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Aug 10, 2009 15:09
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does anyone know of a good subaru mechanic in the akron/cleveland area? the clutch on my new (used) WRX just went out after 3 weeks and the dealership is jerking me around, they quoted 959 parts/labor as their best offer or whatever, and if I can find a more reasonable mechanic I'll just have the stupid thing towed elsewhere
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Aug 10, 2009 21:47
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So I replaced my rotors today. I double checked everything, looking to avoid past mistakes. I bled, rebled and bled again. I turned the rear wheel slightly and heard a scraping noise. I'm assuming it's the pads sitting against the rotor and as soon as I as I drive a few feet it will be aok. Am I correct? Or do I need to do a recheck? Edit: Started the car up and did the bedding procedure according to hawk. Every thing seems fine. Hopefully it stays that way. Ameko fucked around with this message at 20:25 on Aug 12, 2009 |
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Aug 12, 2009 05:42
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Well, as a brief update to what I posted about my car overheating due to the whole turbo coolant line breaking. It caused the head gasket to blow out on my engine with only 1500mi on it. SWEET.
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Aug 12, 2009 06:43
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Wow, you can't catch a loving break with that car huh? Jesus Christ that thing is cursed.
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Aug 12, 2009 14:58
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TurboLuvah posted:Wow, you can't catch a loving break with that car huh? Jesus Christ that thing is cursed. I bought the car on Christmas day in December last year, of the time since then I've driven the car a total of 4 weeks interspersed randomly throughout that time period. Sometimes for only two days at a time before having to borrow my friend's truck and car trailer to tow it the 130 mile one-way trip to his shop. I told my mechanic that it was cursed the other day, he said "Goddamnit help me finish this so I can push it out of the shop I'm tired of looking at it." We had just spent all day working on getting the intercooler setup working and get the car Tuned only to find out that the Up-pipe was cracked. To put a cherry on the cake of that day, after he properly tuned the air-to-fuel ratio (which is all he could do with the cracked up-pipe) and took the 5k RPM limiter off he forgot to reflash the tune causing it to be lost after we took it off the dyno and turned off the car.
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Aug 12, 2009 21:34
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bull3964 posted:Mine was far more catastrophic than that. The VC itself self-destructed and I got a nice cocktail of metal shards and silicon fluid coursing through the whole transmission, completely killing the bearings. Any suggestions as far as differentials go? I see an OBX on ebay and nothing on rock auto. Should I be contacting a dealer?
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Aug 15, 2009 22:54
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RealKyleH posted:Any suggestions as far as differentials go? I see an OBX on ebay and nothing on rock auto. Should I be contacting a dealer? Just get a stock subaru one. I'm running 300hp through mine at the moment. A junkard will have them. you can also email me at driversion_7@yahoo.com. I have one as well that i could hook you up with.
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Aug 16, 2009 00:30
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 Click here for the full 800x600 image.  Click here for the full 800x600 image. Picked up this thing on the weekend. Pretty neat condition, needs a bit of paint work on the bumpers and other plastic, has had some after market exhaust work done but it's pretty subtle and quiet with normal driving (has some oversized tips that I'll probably replace with something closer to stock).
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Aug 16, 2009 14:01
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Does anyone have a cargo/privacy curtain they wanna sell me used that will fit a 97 outback? One of the clips on my snapped off and is no where to be found....right now it's "fixed" with an allen wrench duct tapped and acting as a hook. They go for like 130 bucks new for the whole shebang replaced and I am loving broke right now and I have duct tape keeping something together in my car. Oh god
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Aug 16, 2009 16:00
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Tiny Faye posted:Does anyone have a cargo/privacy curtain they wanna sell me used that will fit a 97 outback? One of the clips on my snapped off and is no where to be found....right now it's "fixed" with an allen wrench duct tapped and acting as a hook. They go for like 130 bucks new for the whole shebang replaced and I am loving broke right now and I have duct tape keeping something together in my car. Oh god Mine's broken too Let me know what you find.
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Aug 16, 2009 19:46
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I'm going to look at a 1989 GL 5-speed in an hour or so. $350 and runs - so its going to be hard to argue with if it runs decently and is rust free. Anything in particular to look for? It's really just an excuse to have a 3rd car to wrench on now that I've got a garage, and possible rallycross it if its running well and structurally sound.
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Aug 16, 2009 21:07
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Tiny Faye posted:Does anyone have a cargo/privacy curtain they wanna sell me used that will fit a 97 outback? One of the clips on my snapped off and is no where to be found....right now it's "fixed" with an allen wrench duct tapped and acting as a hook. They go for like 130 bucks new for the whole shebang replaced and I am loving broke right now and I have duct tape keeping something together in my car. Oh god I know $100 isn't much cheaper than $130 but is this what you're looking for?
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Aug 16, 2009 21:48
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So I got my 09 WRX at the beginning of July, and noticed some weird stuff going on with it today. I was making a u turn from a stop on a residential street. I got turned around, then put in the clutch and put the car in neutral because I only needed to coast down the hill to a stop sign. Despite me engaging the clutch and not being on the accelerator, the engine stayed at about 2500-3000 rpms. I waited a few seconds with the clutch in and the car in neutral, then the rpm's dropped back down to around 1k. When I started driving again, I noticed that when shifting gears, there seemed to be a delay in when i put in the clutch and when the rpm's would drop. I got where I was going and let the car sit for a while. After starting it up again, it seems like the rpm's are dropping as soon as I put the clutch in like normal, but occasionally I'll put the clutch in and put it in neutral, and the rpm's will start rising randomly, without me hitting the gas at all. What the hell is going on here? It sounds kind of like a slipping clutch from the research I've done, but this is a brand new car with only 1500 or so miles on it. I drive it somewhat hard from time to time, but have never launched or anything. How could a clutch go so quickly?
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Aug 16, 2009 23:23
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Joey joejoejr182 posted:Despite me engaging the clutch and not being on the accelerator, the engine stayed at about 2500-3000 rpms. I waited a few seconds with the clutch in and the car in neutral, then the rpm's dropped back down to around 1k. When I started driving again, I noticed that when shifting gears, there seemed to be a delay in when i put in the clutch and when the rpm's would drop. I got where I was going and let the car sit for a while. After starting it up again, it seems like the rpm's are dropping as soon as I put the clutch in like normal, but occasionally I'll put the clutch in and put it in neutral, and the rpm's will start rising randomly, without me hitting the gas at all. My 09 does that too but I don't know why.
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Aug 17, 2009 00:35
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ab0z posted:I know $100 isn't much cheaper than $130 but is this what you're looking for? That's the one.
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Aug 17, 2009 00:42
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bung posted:My 09 does that too but I don't know why. Drive by wire has all sorts of logic that isn't apparent, stuff like rev-hanging, power steering up-idle, and all sorts of stuff. It sounds pretty normal to me.
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Aug 17, 2009 00:51
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perabyte posted:That's the one. Oh man i think I might be able to fix it for realsies! http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partdetail.php?partid=11376 It's just the stopper/tab thingie on the right side. ...I think i'm gonna order it. Tiny Faye fucked around with this message at 02:43 on Aug 17, 2009 |
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Aug 17, 2009 02:41
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dayman posted:Bad center diff. The viscous coupling has failed, so now it locks when the plates heat up from normal driving. The clunk is the driveline loading and unloading while you're turning since, in sharp corners, the front wheels travel further than the rears. Exact same thing happened to me when mine failed. My 03 Forester went into the dealer on Friday for that same problem. It went into a a different dealer twice under warranty for the same problem, and they claimed they were unable to reproduce the problem. The dealer I went to this time knew exactly what the problem was, and they're going to try and get Subaru to pay for the work, since the other dealer missed a really common problem on two separate occasions.
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Aug 17, 2009 02:53
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Tiny Faye posted:Oh man i think I might be able to fix it for realsies! Oh cool I didn't know about that site - thanks for posting!
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Aug 17, 2009 03:31
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Walked posted:I'm going to look at a 1989 GL 5-speed in an hour or so. $350 and runs - so its going to be hard to argue with if it runs decently and is rust free. Quoting myself. It's in pretty good shape, but the owner couldnt show so no sale could be made anyways. Since, have gotten them to agree to $275 for the car. Any last suggestions to look at? Pretty much impossible for me to argue at this point. Also - any way for me to easily tell if this is an AWD/4WD variant of the GL?
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Aug 17, 2009 03:43
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Baby Hitler posted:Drive by wire has all sorts of logic that isn't apparent, stuff like rev-hanging, power steering up-idle, and all sorts of stuff. It sounds pretty normal to me. After further research, it looks like a pretty common thing. Im glad I dont have a problem with my car, but I'm really not too keen on this "feature"... Allegedly a tune takes care of it, so maybe I'll break down and buy and accessport.
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Aug 17, 2009 05:23
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yeah, we generally re-map the throttle when we tune. After melting my brakes twice I finally put some better stuff on my car last week. WRX front brakes, legacy h6 rear brakes, SS lines, hawk hps pads. They actually feel about the same as they did before. They'll hold up to more heat though. I'm going to re-bleed them and flush the rest of the fluid I have through the system to see if it gets any better. Was out at cal speedway today keeping an eye on a couple of stis we sponsor. Took a ride in the one that makes 450whp and we did a lot of powersliding.
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Aug 17, 2009 05:31
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Can anyone recommend where I might start with a rattle at cold startup? It lasts about a second and I think it has something to do with the oil as it stops immediately after the oil light goes out. Its not knocking but its not a great noise. I've tried changing the oil thinking it might be the drainback valve in the oil filter I had but it hasn't helped. Could it be the oil pump? Piston slap?
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Aug 17, 2009 05:36
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I was driving home yesterday and downshifted into 4, and then found I couldn't shift into any other gear Clutch pedal still feels stiff as can be, but It just doesn't disengage the engine and transmission any more so I can shift into gear. The car is an 08 with about 11k on it, is the dealer going to blame this on me? I know anything dealing with the clutch is normally considered wear and they yell at you for it, but this thing is bone dry stock and only 8 months old.
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Aug 17, 2009 17:06
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Bring it to them, tell then what happened, and they'll fix it under warranty.
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Aug 17, 2009 17:34
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Tiny Faye posted:Oh man i think I might be able to fix it for realsies! Yes! Thank you for finding that! I found the equivalent part for my Forester. I couldn't figure out if I could order that part on it's own without buying a whole new tonneau cover. Yay!
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Aug 17, 2009 22:04
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I bought a new car, and my first manual! I traded in my beaten to hell 04 Outback @ 144,000 miles for an 06 Impreza Wagon @ 28,500 miles. #_#!!!!!!! This car is great! I haven't driven stick in 8 years, and for about a half hour at most. I'm now driving with only occasional stalling after 4 hours! Every shift is smoother and smoother. The control you get with the manual is just...somatic. I love it! I've managed to accidently burn rubber in 1st, 2cnd, and 3rd...I think I figured out the engagement point now. I'm really trying to take it easy on the clutch. My first few tries were brutal...lots of rocking and bad noises. Within 10 minutes of starting to learn, the terrified wife and I were sideways in the dirt backlot of our dealer. I'm so happy the station wagon is gone and is someone else's problem. I felt like a grandma in that thing. The impreza was in very good condition, runs great, and we got the dealer to throw in a 30,000 mile maintenance and tranny/diff fluid change. I took the advice of another thread and just learned stick on the dealer's lot, in the car I was buying. We may now need a new clutch in two years, but it was worth it. What a fantastic vehicle. I'm looking forward to the gas mileage boost. I used to love driving...but now...the feeling transcends words. Except words like "Did you just stall, again!?", "SLOW DOWN!!!", "It's still accelerating!" (Also, "Why aren't we accelerating?" drat you, neutral.) Edit: A few hours later, and things are still going well. Shifting is getting smoother. I have a question though: When I let up on the gas, should the car sort of chug a little? It happens in 1st-3rd gear and much less noticeably in 4th-5th? Did I destroy my transmission already? Perhaps the clutch is slipping? Thankfully I'm still under warranty. I worried...the first few starts were pretty rough. 2nd Edit: Or more likely, perhaps the clutch is grabbing? causticfluids fucked around with this message at 02:26 on Aug 18, 2009 |
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Aug 17, 2009 23:11
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Mine always had a noticeable change whenever you went off the gas in the lower gears. if you don't want it to chug, don't just let go of the gas but ease off. What is happening is your car is transitioning from the engine pushing the powertrain to your powertrain pushing the engine, if that makes sense to you. You are the throttle control, smooth it out.
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Aug 18, 2009 03:54
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Qapf posted:Mine always had a noticeable change whenever you went off the gas in the lower gears. if you don't want it to chug, don't just let go of the gas but ease off. What is happening is your car is transitioning from the engine pushing the powertrain to your powertrain pushing the engine, if that makes sense to you. You are the throttle control, smooth it out. This. Also, no matter how smooth I try to make my transition, if I am in 1st the car bucks like a bitch if I dont clutch in when I let off the gas. Any other gear I am fine. It'll take some practice, but you'll get it right.
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Aug 18, 2009 04:03
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Today was the first day since I bought my 2009 5-door Impreza 2.5i that it rained hard enough for me to consider the road at least somewhat tricky. So I took the long way home and attempted to get VDC to turn on, even for a second, because I really didn't believe it even possible. I accelerated aggressively, I cornered aggressively, all of this on the lovely stock Potenza RE92's. No matter what I did, the car still handled like it was on dry pavement and never once did the VDC even flicker on. I failed, and yet I felt really good about failing.
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Aug 18, 2009 05:08
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Thanks for the reassurance guys, makes sense too. I'm having tons of nervous fun. Still bucking all the time when I shift. I read that the best shifting is to be had at around 3000 RPM, I'll give that a try. I've had some really considerate drivers who back off on the hills and some people who tailgate closer than ever despite my wife's "Learning stick for the love of god stay back" sign she can hold up. She's interested in learning as well and wants to pick up a $1000 beater for herself. I'm thinking suzuki samurai, oh yeah. The 06 Impreza is really nice. I don't miss the bells and whistles of the Outback too much. I left my 4 year old aftermarket stereo in the car when I sold it, disconnected my subwoofers and sold those too. The stock stereo in the Impreza is a nice balance between good sound and humbling simpleness. Being a person attracted to utilitarianism and simplification, the 2.5i has made me pretty happy so far. Even through bumper to bumper traffic in the first two miles, roundabouts, and dense new england towns. I just love that drat engine. I told the dealer that if I ever crack my block, I'm coming in and having his shop drop an H6 in it, if that sort of thing is possible. causticfluids fucked around with this message at 05:25 on Aug 18, 2009 |
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Aug 18, 2009 05:10
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Cuntpunch posted:Today was the first day since I bought my 2009 5-door Impreza 2.5i that it rained hard enough for me to consider the road at least somewhat tricky. So I took the long way home and attempted to get VDC to turn on, even for a second, because I really didn't believe it even possible.
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Aug 18, 2009 09:03
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Cuntpunch posted:Today was the first day since I bought my 2009 5-door Impreza 2.5i that it rained hard enough for me to consider the road at least somewhat tricky. So I took the long way home and attempted to get VDC to turn on, even for a second, because I really didn't believe it even possible. You weren't trying hard enough.
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Aug 18, 2009 13:28
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TurboLuvah posted:You weren't trying hard enough. The 2002 4EAT AWD system is funner because you can get it to freak out and lock 50-50 suddenly if you start furiously spinning the tires from a standstill. It makes a great thump from the rear diff and then the car takes off. I think a transmission firmware update was issued for the models that had the bug to make the transition smoother. This feature makes four way intersections in the winter hilarious fun.
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Aug 18, 2009 14:53
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I'm moving out west in September, and I'm towing my Outback behind my dad's camper with a wheel lift. Should I disconnect the drive shaft? Because that's what everybody's telling me to do. I was told that in neutral the fluid going through the trans would actually be going through in reverse while being towed.
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Aug 18, 2009 15:35
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Walked posted:Quoting myself. It's in pretty good shape, but the owner couldnt show so no sale could be made anyways. If its the 4WD you should have a manual selector for it vs the AWD one which can't go into 2wd or 4wd low. Also prepare for a painfully underpowered car. They can barely get out of their own way.
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Aug 18, 2009 17:53
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perabyte posted:I'm moving out west in September, and I'm towing my Outback behind my dad's camper with a wheel lift. Should I disconnect the drive shaft? Because that's what everybody's telling me to do. I was told that in neutral the fluid going through the trans would actually be going through in reverse while being towed. I'm almost sure this thread has said the only way to move a Subaru is on a flatbed trailer of some sort.
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Aug 18, 2009 18:52
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Gahhh...my outback is giving me so much crap lately. Details: '97, auto, 143k on it. (head gasket was replaced at 130k) For the past couple days my temp gauge has been a bit on the rise, but always goes back down. Seems to only happen when the AC is on. It only goes up when the car is stopped for more than a minute at a time. The radiator was just replaced. I'm not totally freaking out because it keeps going back to the middle within a few minutes, but I'm not sure if I should be worried....it's obnoxious having your AC starting to dog it on a 95+ degree day sitting in traffic. Car also tends to hesitate from a stop when the AC's on. Today it totally stalled when I switched it in reverse to parallel park. I was fully stopped, switched it...engine cut out and gave me the check engine light. I just got it back from the mechanic for regular maintenance/tune up too. AC was on when this happened...not sure if that makes a difference. Any ideas before hunting for a new mechanic? (moving away from home...hooray) I'm paranoid my car's going to crap out on me and i don't want it to because i want my outback to live forever
Tiny Faye fucked around with this message at 03:10 on Aug 19, 2009 |
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Aug 19, 2009 03:00
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Is it odd for the tires and steering wheel feel like they're shaking if I'm taking a turn just in neutral?
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Aug 19, 2009 10:43
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