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Pissingintowind posted:Hold the 17mm still while turning the 11mm fitting. The 11mm rotates freely around the hard brake line. ahh, thanks. I realized I have the wrong end of the UUC line in the pic, confusing things. 
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Aug 21, 2009 07:22
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Higher consumables costs and greater complexity = $$$$ and PITA when something breaks. I'm not dissing the M3, but I'm enjoying my £600 E30 touring because (i) it owes me nothing and (ii) if anything breaks, I can figure out what and why. I suspect an '84 944 is similar in both respects, although probably more expensive to keep going. Is a well-maintained E30 M3 not family friendly enough? Probably not more reliable of course! Lighter and simpler though. I do recall discussion of exploding S54 engines on bimmerfest back in the day - don't know if that was actually based on anything other than a few people having bad luck though. PXJ800 posted:Well, you're no help
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Aug 21, 2009 15:10
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May as well share a stupid move I made that may help out others. Ive got a 91 318iS with an M42 engine. I was replacing a ton of hoses under the intake manifold and had the wiring cover off. I found an unplugged connection under the cover, so I plugged it in. Once everything was back together, I had a tough time idling sometimes and I would have total loss of power trying to accelerate right after starting the car. Warm start, cold start, it did not matter, sometimes it would happen, sometimes not. I finally found out that this plug is supposed to be unplugged! It is a provision for cars without catalytic converters. If you have a cat, leave it unplugged, if not, plug it in. If its plugged in, the car gets CO readings from a "CO pentiometer", and if its unplugged, it uses the the O2 sensor. So I guess the moral of the story is if its unplugged, check to see what its for before plugging it back in. Although with a another car of mine, the horn did not work, and then I found a harness under the steering wheel. I plugged that back in, and my horn started working.
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Aug 21, 2009 16:48
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My E30 hood is stuck closed! I opened it the other day and now it won't open. I pull on the handle and I can feel the cable moving but it resists when I push it back in. I ended up breaking it because I pulled too much. How can I get my hood open now? 
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Aug 22, 2009 02:22
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two_beer_bishes posted:My E30 hood is stuck closed! I opened it the other day and now it won't open. I pull on the handle and I can feel the cable moving but it resists when I push it back in. I ended up breaking it because I pulled too much. How can I get my hood open now? There should be a hood release you can get at with a screwdriver near the driver's side headlight.
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Aug 22, 2009 02:32
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Crustashio posted:There should be a hood release you can get at with a screwdriver near the driver's side headlight. I think I see what you're talking about. Do you just jam a screwdriver in there?
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Aug 22, 2009 02:39
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two_beer_bishes posted:I think I see what you're talking about. Do you just jam a screwdriver in there? Put it in about the second row down in the little housing that goes from the kidney around the headlight and there's a little hole between two bolts in there and turn it clockwise. I have to do the same thing for my hood since the cable stopped working recently and I'm yet to figure out why it failed.
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Aug 22, 2009 12:57
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Baram posted:Put it in about the second row down in the little housing that goes from the kidney around the headlight and there's a little hole between two bolts in there and turn it clockwise. I have to do the same thing for my hood since the cable stopped working recently and I'm yet to figure out why it failed. I'll give it a shot after work, thanks!
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Aug 22, 2009 17:42
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Saga posted:Higher consumables costs and greater complexity = $$$$ and PITA when something breaks. I looked up the "exploding" S54 problem and BMW issued a recall on the 01-02 cars that had something in the motor that failed. http://www.yoy.com/yoy/auto/m3_failintro.shtml Other than that I haven't had mine die. I finally pushed "SPORT" on the car and turned off DSC. I think driving with SPORT mode off it is a tame monster. Pushing that button and the car seemed to absolutely open up and turned it into some kind of freak. I always thought it was a tame vehicle. Not so much - this thing could get me into some serious trouble.  The car isn't going to hurt itself if you bounce it off the rev limiter on accident, no? For some reason I was in manual mode on the SMG when I thought it was auto and next thing I know I'm bouncing the needle off the limiter. Probably is totally fine - just paranoid is all. Limiter is there for a reason. I already have one car burning oil because of jacked up valves and rings I don't need another. VibrioCholera fucked around with this message at 15:24 on Aug 23, 2009 |
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Aug 23, 2009 15:22
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Can someone with an E30 please confirm the part# on their high beam relay for me? Specifically for an '85 325 but as long it's a 5-prong it should be the same part. edit: I think it should be 61361388911 two_beer_bishes fucked around with this message at 16:23 on Aug 23, 2009 |
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Aug 23, 2009 16:20
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Speaking of lights, I finally bought an E36 M3 and it's awesome so far but one of the HID bulbs went out on it. Do you guys know what size HID bulb I will need for it? The guy who sold it to me put in some "depo" HID w/angel eyes setup but one of the low beam bulbs went out. I swapped the two bulbs, so I know it is the bulb and not the wiring (wow was that a pain, I really wish the wires were longer). I know it is 6000K, but I don't know what size bulb I need. I'm going to post some pictures as soon as I get it cleaned up. I drove from Philly to NYC to Washington DC to Atlanta in it, then from Atlanta to NC Mountains and back to Atlanta the past 2 weeks and it is a bit of a mess. BossTweed fucked around with this message at 17:09 on Aug 23, 2009 |
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Aug 23, 2009 17:06
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VibrioCholera posted:The car isn't going to hurt itself if you bounce it off the rev limiter on accident, no? For some reason I was in manual mode on the SMG when I thought it was auto and next thing I know I'm bouncing the needle off the limiter. Probably is totally fine - just paranoid is all. Limiter is there for a reason. I already have one car burning oil because of jacked up valves and rings I don't need another. The point of the limiter is to prevent bad things from happening, so just don't hold it on the limiter for long periods of time and you're fine there. Stock it's often set conservatively anyways, and a modified tune will often raise it a few hundred RPM. Other than people intentionally putting a brick on the gas pedal to kill the car I've never heard of engine death resulting from revving up to the limiter. Accidentally downshifting too far and forcing the engine to rev far over the limiter (a.k.a. the money shift) is the far more common method of RPM-related engine death, and since you have a SMG that should be impossible as the computer is not supposed to let it happen (though I wouldn't be the one to run up to 6000 in third and try to click down to second to see what happens).
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Aug 23, 2009 17:23
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I watched this guy total his E36 M3 at Summit Point today during a NASA event. He was OK, which was good, because drat did he hit that tire wall hard. Apparently the car was for sale, too. Poor car.       
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Aug 24, 2009 04:00
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holy poo poo that looks like a hell of an impact. poor car
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Aug 24, 2009 04:24
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I hope that doesn't ever happen to mine, that sucks. Here are pics of my newly purchased E36 M3/4/5. Black on Black with 63,000 miles on it. Freshly cleaned after cruising up and down the eastern US. It has been an awesome car so far. I'm really happy with my choice. I even fit four 28 year old males in the car and they didn't complain much about leg room! Oh yeah, does anyone know the best place to buy OEM center caps for my contours? One of them is missing a sticker and the others aren't so hot either.  Click here for the full 1000x750 image.  Click here for the full 1000x750 image.  Click here for the full 1000x750 image.  Click here for the full 1000x750 image.  Click here for the full 1000x750 image. I didn't have time to clean up the interior today so excuse the dust/dirt.  Click here for the full 1000x750 image.  Click here for the full 750x1000 image. BossTweed fucked around with this message at 04:29 on Aug 24, 2009 |
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Aug 24, 2009 04:25
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BossTweed posted:Here are pics of my newly purchased E36 M3/4/5. I've never heard someone use that naming convention. What would you call an automatic coupe? E36 M3/2/A?
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Aug 24, 2009 07:26
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Oh man, I'm about to throw down the biggest order I've ever made on Pelican Parts, but damned if my 318is isn't going to be like new when I'm done with it. Hello new bushings, mounts, gaskets, seals, shocks, springs, and shift kit. Goodbye most of my savings and my free time for the next few weeks. Also I don't think they made the E36 M3 coupe in an automatic, I'm pretty sure it was just the 4 door M3, for the ultimate poseur machine.
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Aug 24, 2009 09:25
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vivacthulhu posted:Also I don't think they made the E36 M3 coupe in an automatic, I'm pretty sure it was just the 4 door M3, for the ultimate poseur machine. They're much more common in the 4-door, but I think you could even get it in the coupe. The ad copy was: "A stick is no longer needed to stir your soul"  Edit: RealOEM lets me choose an E36 M3 coupe with a 3/95 production date and an auto. Some months there is no choice, so it appears that they made the autos in batches. mungtor fucked around with this message at 12:20 on Aug 24, 2009 |
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Aug 24, 2009 12:13
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Additional waffling... The wagon ended up being a smoker's car, as my recent thread in AI indicated. I haven't completely ruled it out, but I'd never be able to get that "BMW smell" back. I drove the 530i 5-speed yesterday, and I really loved it. It's been very, very well cared for - minor wear on the driver seat, paint in good shape save for a few minor blemishes. It has the sport package and xenons, but it doesn't have the H/K sound system, park distance control, the cold weather package, or auto-on headlamps ... not that any of those really matter anyway. The wagon was loaded and was two years newer with 4k more miles. It's just that it had been smoked in. I know the utility of the wagon is much better, but I'll have a older 1/2 ton pickup and a Jeep Cherokee for hauling stuff. So is buying a manual 5-series still a bad idea?
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Aug 24, 2009 14:46
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pyrrhus posted:So is buying a manual 5-series still a bad idea? Not at all -- just harder to resell. Be absolutely positive you're in love with the car--and the manual--before buying it. Personally, I'd still go for the wagon -- a $100 detail job is a small price to pay, but I've got a hardon for no-compromises cars.
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Aug 24, 2009 16:39
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pyrrhus posted:
I am the former owner of a 530i Sport with the 5-speed and no, it's not a bad idea. It's got 95% of the handling of a 3-series with a little more room (mostly in the trunk). I will say, after owner 2 5-Series and 2 3-Series, that I've figured out that I'm more of a 3-Series person. I feel like the 3-Series wraps perfectly around me, but I felt a little less "snug" in the 5-Series. I also like the perfectly buttoned down feeling of the suspension in the 3-Series, as the 5-Series is a little softer (which is exactly as it should be). Like Sterndotstern said, make sure you love whatever you get and don't be surprised if it's tougher to sell the manual 5. EDIT: Oh and gently caress buying a smoker's car. You'll never get that smell out completely without replacing the carpets and the headliner. You'll always be greeted with the very faint smell of stale cigarettes whenever you open the door and it will probably drive you nuts. I passed on several smoked-in Certified BMWs at dealerships where you could tell it they had given it their best detail job. I opened the door and immediately knew it had been smoked in despite being covered up with all the detailing chemicals. Brock Landers fucked around with this message at 16:52 on Aug 24, 2009 |
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Aug 24, 2009 16:48
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The additional room is nice. I don't like tiny cars. The 5 also has fold-flat seats, so the cargo room is a little better than the sedans with the fixed seats. It's no wagon, but it would fit luggage for 4 passengers with ease. Sterndotstern posted:Not at all -- just harder to resell. Be absolutely positive you're in love with the car--and the manual--before buying it. There is a compromise - it feels much slower, and it's an automatic. The everyday utility and the additional small features are nice, but not really necessary. If it were a 330iT (if there were such a thing in the States, thanks BMW) with a 5-speed, I'd be jumping through hoops for it. As it is, I like the car, but I don't love it. And it's been smoked in ... I can't get that out of my head. I'd be one to notice the smell unless they could 100% remove it, and I doubt they'd be able to get it all.
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Aug 24, 2009 17:03
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JizJizJiz posted:I've never heard someone use that naming convention. What would you call an automatic coupe? E36 M3/2/A? I think the only reason people use it is because it goes 3-4-5. I doubt anyone does it for any of the other combination. It's just fun to use I guess and there aren't a ton of them around, so they deserve their own special code name. vivacthulhu posted:Also I don't think they made the E36 M3 coupe in an automatic, I'm pretty sure it was just the 4 door M3, for the ultimate poseur machine. There are definitely automatic M3 coupes, and lots of automatic convertibles. BossTweed fucked around with this message at 17:30 on Aug 24, 2009 |
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Aug 24, 2009 17:27
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two_beer_bishes posted:Can someone with an E30 please confirm the part# on their high beam relay for me? Specifically for an '85 325 but as long it's a 5-prong it should be the same part. Just checked mine out and that's the right number.
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Aug 24, 2009 21:08
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 Just got my k1's mounted last week. Feels like my kumho xs's flat side pretty bad overnight :-/.
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Aug 24, 2009 21:39
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BossTweed posted:I think the only reason people use it is because it goes 3-4-5. I doubt anyone does it for any of the other combination. It's just fun to use I guess and there aren't a ton of them around, so they deserve their own special code name. I didn't want to believe it
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Aug 24, 2009 22:39
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Baram posted:Just checked mine out and that's the right number. Thank you
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Aug 24, 2009 22:52
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mungtor posted:They're much more common in the 4-door, but I think you could even get it in the coupe. I think the auto on it is the original poopy SMG.
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Aug 25, 2009 07:16
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Sterndotstern posted:Not at all -- just harder to resell. I'm not sure this will really be an issue since the one he's looking at also has the sports package. The manual/sport package combo fairly rare and one enthusiasts look for.
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Aug 25, 2009 09:13
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LCN posted:I think the auto on it is the original poopy SMG. Some research says that the E36 M3 was available with a 5 speed manual, but never an SMG.
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Aug 25, 2009 09:51
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vivacthulhu posted:Some research says that the E36 M3 was available with a 5 speed manual, but never an SMG. The Euro M3 had an option for an SMG.
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Aug 25, 2009 12:39
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'01 530i 5-speed with sport package, xenons, and fold-flat rear seats. 136k highway miles, good condition with all service records. Garage kept and two previous owners. Worth $8.5k?
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Aug 25, 2009 14:43
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pyrrhus posted:Worth $8.5k? Yes. Bring a jack and a couple towels so you can get under it and inspect the shocks for leaks and suspension thrust bushings, bring a camera so you can show the owner your concerns. Compare maintenance history to this checklist: http://edgemotorworks.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=27&Itemid=55 And if something hasn't been addressed, raise it as a concern and possible bargaining chip.
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Aug 25, 2009 15:15
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TheMadMilkman posted:I'm not sure this will really be an issue since the one he's looking at also has the sports package. The manual/sport package combo fairly rare and one enthusiasts look for. I had that exact combo and figured enthusiasts would be jumping on it when I sold it. Didn't happen. I got lots of calls asking if it was an automatic.
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Aug 25, 2009 16:15
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Quick question: What is this? I'm currently trying to install an Mtech I wheel in my '91 318i that previously had an airbagged wheel. Every half turn with the Mtech wheel makes a "click" sound that I've tracked down to a screw rubbing against this thing. What does it do? Is it important or can I grind it down a bit so that it isn't bumping into the screw?
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Aug 25, 2009 22:14
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KillerFuzzball posted:Quick question: Grab it with a pair of pliers and yank it out, that's what I had to do.
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Aug 25, 2009 22:36
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Had a bit of an incident with a fence, and now I need a new passenger's side tail (the glass portion) for my late model e30. Any of you happen to have one to spare on a parts car somewhere? Seemed like most people that had a set up for sale didn't want to part with just one, and I don't blame them.
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Aug 26, 2009 04:30
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Killer fuzzball, yes you can just yank that out with a pair of pliers. You have the extra spacer to make the wheel mount up correctly, right? Mr. Toast posted:Had a bit of an incident with a fence, and now I need a new passenger's side tail (the glass portion) for my late model e30. Any of you happen to have one to spare on a parts car somewhere? Seemed like most people that had a set up for sale didn't want to part with just one, and I don't blame them. Check the forums at r3vlimited.com
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Aug 26, 2009 15:30
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So it's time to replace the lower control arm bushings on my E46. I've been trying to source a good aftermarket replacement and have heard good things about urethane bushings, namely that they won't disintegrate like the rubber ones. Problem is, I can't find a retailer that sells them pre-pressed into brackets, but i've found OEM bushings in brackets for roughly the same cost as a set of urethane ones (~$100). I've heard its a real pain in the rear end to get the old ones out/press new ones in. I wouldn't be against buying some tools if it meant better bushings, but if I could find some all good to go that'd help my wallet a bit. Any suggestions? spodycart fucked around with this message at 05:06 on Aug 27, 2009 |
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Aug 27, 2009 05:01
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spodycart posted:So it's time to replace the lower control arm bushings on my E46. I've been trying to source a good aftermarket replacement and have heard good things about urethane bushings, namely that they won't disintegrate like the rubber ones. Problem is, I can't find a retailer that sells them pre-pressed into brackets, but i've found OEM bushings in brackets for roughly the same cost as a set of urethane ones (~$100). Do you track your car? If so, it's probably worth switching over to poly bushings. If you're just doing street driving, I wouldn't bother. Plastic bushings last longer (if they're properly made), but they can contribute to a harsher ride with more vibrations transferred to the cabin. Changing out the control arm bushings with plastic won't have a serious effect on comfort, but it's sort of overkill for the type of driving most people do. Unless you drive very aggressively or are running on some super-heavy wheels, you should still get 50k miles or so out of rubber CABs. If you're on a budget and aren't racing the car, I'd seriously just stick with rubber. That being said, you can buy any bushings you want. Just pull your old CAB brackets off the car (I can have them off a non-xi e46 in about 10 minutes), and take them to any shop that has an arbor press...and every shop has a press. If they don't rip you off, they shouldn't charge much to press in a couple of bushings. The urethane bushings will be a little harder for you to get back onto the control arms, but with some lube and a big rubber mallet anything is possible. If you want to splurge on some pre-mounted bushings, these guys: http://www.treehouseracing.com/ make good quality stuff. Pricey though. Oh, and if you're driving an all-wheel drive e46, this job is a much, much bigger pain in the rear end. Sorry for the long post, but I'm just a little tired of everyone pushing poly bushings, especially for major component mounts (engine, tranny, rear subframe, etc). They have their place, but they're just not a perfect fit for every application.
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Aug 27, 2009 06:05
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