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I installed that fire bottle on this car, it was never used at least. Typically your "fire wall" is the best protection you have regarding an engine fire, that and getting out of the car.
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Aug 27, 2009 02:40
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Some pics of my 08 WRX. Click here for the full 800x600 image.  Click here for the full 800x600 image. It's now got an STI wing on it, and i'm gonna be getting rid of that horrible front lip soon, although it does stop my dad from scraping the original bodywork on kerbs. He's already put a bunch of scrapes on the car.
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Aug 27, 2009 05:25
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I know everyone here loves the Impreza, but I have always wanted to own a Forester, preferable the one before the body redesign. I think I found a 2000 that I want to buy. Besides the Head gasket, are there any major problems?
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Aug 27, 2009 06:09
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A lesson for everyone, try not to break your transmission. Evidently some of the parts they need to rebuild are on national backorder. With a 2 week wait minimum. At least the outback they gave me to drive around is fun.
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Aug 27, 2009 07:16
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Qapf posted:A lesson for everyone, try not to break your transmission.  5 speeds or 6 speeds?
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Aug 27, 2009 07:17
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RealKyleH posted:
I'd guess 5 speed, but maybe hell has frozen over.
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Aug 27, 2009 08:47
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Seat Safety Switch posted:The current version is a Jatco design - it's like if you go to the Superstore and pick up a blue-and-yellow box marked "Automatic Transmission." There's a few tweaks Subaru have added but it's more or less a generic auto. They've had it forever. The 4EAT has tons of tweaks because the AWD system is controlled by it. The newer 5EAT I have no idea about. http://www.northursalia.com/techdocs/pdf/transmission/4eat.pdf I have heard that the newer 5EAT is no where near as durable as the 4EAT which is a shame. The 4EAT has its quirks but its pretty hard to kill it. I drive a 4EAT Subaru and there is only two things that bother me about it. One is that when I spin the tires in the snow it will lock into 50/50 FR rather abruptly. This apparently only affected the 2002 models. The last is that the "power" mode mentioned in the document above feels great but the transmission hates to be in "power" mode and seems to like to opt for "grandpas Buick" mode if you drive it conservatively for a while. I have no idea how it determines this but the difference is like night and day.
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Aug 27, 2009 12:11
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Tremblay posted:I'd guess 5 speed, but maybe hell has frozen over. 5 speed. With 11k on the clock. They have decided to blame it on "leaving my hand on the gearshift after changing into gear".
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Aug 27, 2009 15:07
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I don't know if the current WRX's problems with metal shavings are also exhibited in the 2.5i, but that's worth looking into. quote:Compared to the US Impreza prices the Canadian ones are a straight up ripoff - you're paying duty and taxes twice since they first import the shells and running gear to America, do final assembly at SIA and then kick it up North. However, that's pretty much the case with every import manufacturer.  markup. I'd actually consider going across the line (if they'd sell me one) but concern with warranty coverage at the local dealer is enough to make me think twice.Imprezas are actually final assembled in the US? I did not know that. I thought they were all done in Japan. 8ender posted:The 4EAT has tons of tweaks because the AWD system is controlled by it. The newer 5EAT I have no idea about. Any feedback on the new Legacy yet? I know it's too early for anyone to have developed any real history on them yet, but after sleeping on it I'm thinking the extra $3K might be worthwhile for the room and refinement in the cabin and trunk space.
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Aug 27, 2009 15:30
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slidebite posted:Metal shavings? I believe he is talking about 09 WRX engine failures although I don't think any N/A Imprezas have failed. slidebite posted:Wow, that's pretty lovely. After a brief glimpse at the thread at least it appears that post Sept/08 seems to be OK. Yeah it is. My engine failed at 7,414 miles. bung fucked around with this message at 20:30 on Aug 27, 2009 |
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Aug 27, 2009 16:24
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bung posted:I believe he is talking about 09 WRX engine failures although I don't think any N/A Imprezas have failed. Wow, that's pretty lovely. After a brief glimpse at the thread at least it appears that post Sept/08 seems to be OK.
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Aug 27, 2009 16:42
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RealKyleH posted:Just called around and the cheapest OTD price for a center diff is $510. Add in a fluid replacement, gaskets if they're not included, probably gonna come out around $570. I hope it doesn't seem like I am ignoring good advice here but money is tight for the next 2 months or so. Read the post I made on August 16th in this thread, I'm broke right now so I can't afford PM's.
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Aug 27, 2009 22:16
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dayman posted:Read the post I made on August 16th in this thread, I'm broke right now so I can't afford PM's. I read it but I am just worried that I will break it again in short order and have to do the whole job over still buying a brand new one.
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Aug 27, 2009 22:23
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Qapf posted:They have decided to blame it on "leaving my hand on the gearshift after changing into gear". I hear this a lot on this forum when dealers decide to blame the drivers. What the gently caress is up with that accusation?
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Aug 27, 2009 23:18
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Qapf posted:5 speed. With 11k on the clock. They have decided to blame it on "leaving my hand on the gearshift after changing into gear". So what they are doing is saying the gearbox is capable of being overshifted, a problem Mazda gearboxes used to have ..... 20 years ago. The gates just shouldnt allow the forks to be overshifted and put pressure on the bearings / synchos. If this can happen... guess who's really at fault? So, it used to be true. It shouldnt be anymore. I smell BS and frankly Subaru like blaming drivers for issues the driver has nothign to do with.
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Aug 28, 2009 00:12
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Qapf posted:5 speed. With 11k on the clock. They have decided to blame it on "leaving my hand on the gearshift after changing into gear". Call bullshit and go in there and yell and write angry letters to soa.
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Aug 28, 2009 02:05
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jamal posted:Call bullshit and go in there and yell and write angry letters to soa. In the kindness of their black empty hearts the warranty is going to cover it. Once I have my car in my hands im going to write a letter about how downright condescending these bastards are. Ziploc posted:I hear this a lot on this forum when dealers decide to blame the drivers. What the gently caress is up with that accusation? I am under 30, I own a performance oriented car, I am having to tolerate a dealership in Walnut Creek, CA, The median income here is number higher than I can fathom and I am only here for an internship. They think mommy and daddy bought me this car so I need to be scolded not to break my toy that I didn't earn. When more correctly I've paid for everything automotive related in my life save for a first beater car, which I took care of, and sold to start my adventures in automotive insanity. Qapf fucked around with this message at 04:04 on Aug 28, 2009 |
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Aug 28, 2009 04:00
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raffie posted:
Awesome wrx  I've been thinking about getting one in a few years or whenever my outback can't chug on any further.I feel your pain though...my dad has a knack for hitting curbs. I have to keep refilling my front right tire every week and a half or so because it's crooked. He's banned from driving anyone else's car but his..and even that has hosed up rims. GET YOUR EYES CHECKED, DAD. 
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Aug 28, 2009 14:50
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I've decided to start the hunt for a car, and I'm pretty sure the WRX is that car. I would obviously love an sti, but I would most likely get raped on insurance and I would be flat broke after buying one. So the hunt for a mostly unmolested wrx in the $10,000 range with low miles (<30,000) in NJ/tristate area begins. My biggest fear is finding a good deal, that some kid around here literally just thrashed on constantly. There is also an 05 wrx at a chevy dealer around here that has been on the lot for a few weeks. I figure if it's still there in a few more weeks I'll walk in and play hardball with them since they're asking way to much for it. The fact that I'd be paying for it with cash instead of having to get approved for a loan should be a decent bargaining tool I would hope. Anything I should look out for besides what's been mentioned in the OP, and never leaving my hand on the shifter after I poo poo.
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Aug 28, 2009 16:55
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I really don't know where you are going to find a WRX in the $10k range for that low of miles. Mine is barely worth below $10k now and it's an '02 with nearly 100k miles on it. Subarus in general really hold their value well and WRXs specifically hold them even better. Anything less than 30k miles is likely not to be younger than an '06 or '07 at this point and those are still going to be worth around $15k-$17k. $10k is going to get you an '03-05 with anywhere from 50k to 70k miles on it.
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Aug 28, 2009 17:44
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bull3964 posted:I really don't know where you are going to find a WRX in the $10k range for that low of miles. Mine is barely worth below $10k now and it's an '02 with nearly 100k miles on it. Thats kind of what I was thinking, I wasn't sure on how well they held their value though. I'm willing to go up to about 15k on it, but we'll see what plays out over the next few months I'm not in an urgent need of a car at the moment.
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Aug 28, 2009 19:32
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Ive been looking for a cheap car for a while, and since hondas and toyotas seem to be really overpriced, I started looking at other cars....I know subarus are reliable, but is there anything I should watch out for when looking for one? Looking at something like this for instance: http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/1348342538.html unknown poster fucked around with this message at 21:42 on Aug 29, 2009 |
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Aug 28, 2009 19:38
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RealKyleH posted:I read it but I am just worried that I will break it again in short order and have to do the whole job over still buying a brand new one. The one I have has 30k miles on it. The only reason I'm not using it is because I blew 3rd gear in that tranny. But suit yourself, I was only trying to help save you some money. Looking at the prices they're asking for center diffs it would be worth it to me. A center diff swap takes all of two hours using jack stands.
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Aug 28, 2009 21:38
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I just recently picked up a 2003 WRX in silver. Picked it up at a dealership in Jersey with 54000 miles on it, mint condition. Already had work done to it such as 3inch turbo back exhaust, HKS bov and turbotimer, springs and shocks, ACT clutch, CAI, and some other things. I'm looking into doing a new turbo setup with a FMIC, any recommendations/etc for before I go ahead and do that?
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Aug 28, 2009 21:45
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dayman posted:The one I have has 30k miles on it. The only reason I'm not using it is because I blew 3rd gear in that tranny. But suit yourself, I was only trying to help save you some money. Looking at the prices they're asking for center diffs it would be worth it to me. A center diff swap takes all of two hours using jack stands. Sending you a message on FB.
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Aug 28, 2009 22:03
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MasterOfDemons posted:I just recently picked up a 2003 WRX in silver. Picked it up at a dealership in Jersey with 54000 miles on it, mint condition. Already had work done to it such as 3inch turbo back exhaust, HKS bov and turbotimer, springs and shocks, ACT clutch, CAI, and some other things. I'm looking into doing a new turbo setup with a FMIC, any recommendations/etc for before I go ahead and do that? Sure. Unless your going 20G or larger on the turbo and running 25+ psi and/or running a blow-thru tube on the front mount, ditch the BOV. Your going to have people tell you they are for ricers, and your going to have people tell you that they're just fine. Personally, I bought the car with a BOV and switched to the stock bypass valve and there was a night and day difference in driveability and throttle response, especially in the lower gears (for the better with the bypass valve of course.) If you want it just for the sound, you'll be able to hear the stock bypass valve through the cold air intake. You also dont need the turbo timer unless the turbo your going to upgrade to is oil cooled only. The stock turbos, and almost all of the aftermarket turbos as well, for this car are both coolant and oil cooled. Also, most cold air intakes will need to be tuned for on this car, so unless your positive this is the case, or are going to upgrade very soon, I would get tuned.
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Aug 28, 2009 22:21
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Trintintin posted:I've decided to start the hunt for a car, and I'm pretty sure the WRX is that car. I would obviously love an sti, but I would most likely get raped on insurance and I would be flat broke after buying one. So the hunt for a mostly unmolested wrx in the $10,000 range with low miles (<30,000) in NJ/tristate area begins. My biggest fear is finding a good deal, that some kid around here literally just thrashed on constantly. In a lot of cases, I think comparable insurance coverage comparing a WRX to an STI ends up with the STI being cheaper. There are probably less claims-per-thousand-cars with the STI than with WRX's and those sort of probability figures are what insurance rates are built upon. If you go to Geico or Progressive and do two test-quotes, one for a 2004 WRX sedan and one for a 2004 STI, with exactly the same insurance coverage, I bet that the STI comes out cheaper.
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Aug 29, 2009 03:14
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BannedForLulz posted:Sure. Unless your going 20G or larger on the turbo and running 25+ psi and/or running a blow-thru tube on the front mount, ditch the BOV. Your going to have people tell you they are for ricers, and your going to have people tell you that they're just fine. Personally, I bought the car with a BOV and switched to the stock bypass valve and there was a night and day difference in driveability and throttle response, especially in the lower gears (for the better with the bypass valve of course.) If you want it just for the sound, you'll be able to hear the stock bypass valve through the cold air intake. You don't necessarily have to ditch the turbo timer. You can use it to warm up your car or if it's a hot day you can turn the AC on and go back into the house before jumping into a nice cold car.
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Aug 29, 2009 05:59
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BannedForLulz posted:Sure. Unless your going 20G or larger on the turbo and running 25+ psi and/or running a blow-thru tube on the front mount, ditch the BOV. Your going to have people tell you they are for ricers, and your going to have people tell you that they're just fine. Personally, I bought the car with a BOV and switched to the stock bypass valve and there was a night and day difference in driveability and throttle response, especially in the lower gears (for the better with the bypass valve of course.) If you want it just for the sound, you'll be able to hear the stock bypass valve through the cold air intake. Yeah, I did tune the car after I picked it up, it runs really well. I haven't tracked it yet, It's more of an exciting daily driver for me, I'm a big fan of AWB Turbo since my Talon TSi. I'm sure could run better, but I plan on doing injectors, turbo, fmic, chip and tuning, any model tuning tool I should use, stay away from? Any type of make or anything etc I should go for while shopping?
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Aug 30, 2009 02:17
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69sofine posted:You don't necessarily have to ditch the turbo timer. Really really easy to steal cars with them, it bypasses all the security and immobilizers.
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Aug 30, 2009 04:47
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MasterOfDemons posted:Yeah, I did tune the car after I picked it up, it runs really well. I haven't tracked it yet, It's more of an exciting daily driver for me, I'm a big fan of AWB Turbo since my Talon TSi. I'm sure could run better, but I plan on doing injectors, turbo, fmic, chip and tuning, any model tuning tool I should use, stay away from? Any type of make or anything etc I should go for while shopping? injectors - deatschwerks turbo - atp fmic - perrin tuning - cobb accessport or openecu. stay away from - ebay you'll also want an aps turbo inlet, tgv deletes, a boost control solenoid, and a fuel pump. Have your tuner make you a big maf intake.
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Aug 30, 2009 05:00
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My girlfriend has an 08 Imprezza 2.5i and I've convinced her to get an extra set of steel wheels for dedicated winter/snow tires. I'm looking around craigslist for a set but I have some questions because I am apparently retarded when it comes to wheels. The factory wheel size is 16x6.5 with a 5-100 bolt pattern. Will any 16" 5-100 wheel work or do I need to stick with same width? For instance, is it okay to go with something like 16x6? Can she go with 15" wheels with the correct bolt pattern (I don't know if it will fit over the brake hardware or not)? And is there anything else I should be worried about? I see things like stud size and hub center bore listed on some wheel websites, but no one mentions that in their craiglist listings, so I'm not sure how that affects choosing the right wheels.
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Aug 30, 2009 06:07
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best option is a set of used oem wheels. Pretty much any set of subaru 16s will work, and that way you get the right bolt pattern, offset, centerbore, and don't have brake clearance issues. I'm selling a set that would fit but I don't really want to ship them. You can get a set of 02-05 wrx wheels for like $120.
jamal fucked around with this message at 07:08 on Aug 30, 2009 |
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Aug 30, 2009 07:05
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Baby Hitler posted:Really really easy to steal cars with them, it bypasses all the security and immobilizers. How easy is really easy? I thought stealing any car was just a matter of hotwiring it.
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Aug 30, 2009 11:13
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sbyers77 posted:My girlfriend has an 08 Imprezza 2.5i and I've convinced her to get an extra set of steel wheels for dedicated winter/snow tires. I'm looking around craigslist for a set but I have some questions because I am apparently retarded when it comes to wheels. You could also go to tirerack (or really any other online tire vendor) put in the car info, and it will tell you what wheels can be put on the car. If you do go the tirerack route you can buy the tires and wheels all in one shot(steelies are cheap and a good option for winter tires) and have them mount and balance, then when they get delivered all you have to to is swap the wheels.
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Aug 30, 2009 15:12
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I bought an '07 Impreza 2.5i about a month ago, and it's the first car I've driven that had a manual transmission. When I'm staying a steady speed, such as 25 MPH in 3rd gear, I've noticed that the tachometer stays at 2K or a little above. All the cars I've driven in the past have stayed around 1.5K, but I'm not sure if that's because they're automatics, because the tach on those cars only went up to 7K, or if I'm driving poorly. Can someone explain this to me?
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Aug 30, 2009 19:11
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Qapf posted:In the kindness of their black empty hearts the warranty is going to cover it. Diablo Subaru is terrible. For any serious work I would drive down to Santa Cruz Subaru if possible, although that's about 85 miles.
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Aug 30, 2009 19:31
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Spider Crusoe posted:I bought an '07 Impreza 2.5i about a month ago, and it's the first car I've driven that had a manual transmission. When I'm staying a steady speed, such as 25 MPH in 3rd gear, I've noticed that the tachometer stays at 2K or a little above. All the cars I've driven in the past have stayed around 1.5K, but I'm not sure if that's because they're automatics, because the tach on those cars only went up to 7K, or if I'm driving poorly. Can someone explain this to me? The tachometer tells you how fast the engine is turning, and the speedometer tells you how fast the wheels are spinning. The engine speed will vary with your vehicle speed and gear choice. Different cars have different gear ratios to better make use of the powerband, which is the engine speed range that produces the most power.
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Aug 30, 2009 20:40
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Is Peak Global coolant available at any national retailers? There's not a Subaru dealer that's convenient for me to buy Subaru coolant and from what I've read the Peak Global should be fine. I expected it'd be easier to find since Peak is a national brand, but so far I've had zero luck. I've checked at Wal-Mart, Meijer, Murrays (O'Reily's in other parts of the country), Autozone, and NAPA. I'm about to just say "gently caress it" and just pony up for the Subaru coolant from a dealer. I just don't like being reliant on a single brand of coolant - especially when that single brand isn't widely available.
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Aug 30, 2009 22:03
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ab0z posted:The tachometer tells you how fast the engine is turning, and the speedometer tells you how fast the wheels are spinning. The engine speed will vary with your vehicle speed and gear choice. Different cars have different gear ratios to better make use of the powerband, which is the engine speed range that produces the most power. I've got another question that may end making me feel like a dumbass. I was driving up a steep hill with a 45 MPH speed limit. The owner's manual says to shift into 5th at 45 MPH, so I did, and I got no power. I pressed the gas to the floor and got nothing out of the engine. Now, I've heard that 5th gear is pretty weak since it's the overdrive gear, but should I have gotten some sort of response at least? I've seen mentions of 5-speed transmission failures in this thread, so I don't know if this is related. I did try it out again on a flat road, switching to 5th at 40-45 MPH. I did manage to get it to start accelerating from that point, but it did so slowly.
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Aug 30, 2009 23:43
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