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in higher gears your engine has less mechanical advantage over the wheels. so to accelerate and go up hills you need to switch to lower gears. In 5th at 45, the engine simply doesn't have enough power to accelerate up a hill. At 45 you could be down in 3rd or even 2nd when climbing or accelerating.
jamal fucked around with this message at 00:03 on Aug 31, 2009 |
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Aug 31, 2009 00:00
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LordOfThePants posted:Is Peak Global coolant available at any national retailers? There's not a Subaru dealer that's convenient for me to buy Subaru coolant and from what I've read the Peak Global should be fine. I expected it'd be easier to find since Peak is a national brand, but so far I've had zero luck. I've checked at Wal-Mart, Meijer, Murrays (O'Reily's in other parts of the country), Autozone, and NAPA. Peak is pretty much the most common brand of coolant from what I've seen. Why so picky about coolant brands?
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Aug 31, 2009 00:12
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Spider Crusoe posted:I kind of figured that was the case. I've been worried that the previous owner did bad things to the car, and this being my first time with a stick shift and a sporty car, I can't tell what's normal. You have to use different gears for hills compared to roads. If it's super steep you're better off using first gear. I didn't know owner's manuals suggested shifting at a certain speed, but you should shift based on your tachometer I think. Shift around 2000-2500 rpm for normal driving.
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Aug 31, 2009 00:22
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shift at 2-2.5k? This isn't a corvette or a diesel. I usually rev it to at least 3k just driving around normally.
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Aug 31, 2009 00:58
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I thought it was more economical to shift at lower rpm though.
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Aug 31, 2009 01:03
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marginally if at all. The amount of throttle you use has more of an effect on economy than revs. These cars make peak torque at around 4k, which is where the engine is operating most efficiently. Plus keeping the revs down puts more load on the motor with less oil and coolant circulation.
jamal fucked around with this message at 01:39 on Aug 31, 2009 |
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Aug 31, 2009 01:36
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Seriously? I've been driving like that for months. It's 3000 and up from now on.
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Aug 31, 2009 01:55
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Where is the red line on the tach? You should easily be able to wind up to 5k, or am I crazy?
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Aug 31, 2009 01:57
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burtonos posted:Where is the red line on the tach? You should easily be able to wind up to 5k, or am I crazy? Around or a hair above 6k. Depends, but normal driving I'm usually shifting 2800-3500. Jamal, WL sways are expensive  . Oh well  .Edit: as a side note, how are people fairing with the STi TMIC? Wondering down the road is that's a viable option.
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Aug 31, 2009 02:02
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redline is 6500 on most us subarus. we bump up the fuel cut on turbo cars to 7500. The cosworth motor I put together is good for 9500, but is only going to 7500 with the current turbo setup. With a rotated 35r I expect we'll let the customer go a little past 8k. Tremblay, I can get you a discount on the WL sways. As for the sti TMIC, it doesn't fit your car because of the different manifold. A better top mount from perrin is a pretty good idea though if you to mod the car and get a tune. The plastic endtanks on the stock IC don't like to go past 18psi. a new fuel pump, turbo back, top mount, and tune will get you 300whp out of that turbo. jamal fucked around with this message at 02:59 on Aug 31, 2009 |
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Aug 31, 2009 02:03
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jamal posted:redline is 6500 on most subarus. we bump up the fuel cut on turbo cars to 7500. The cosworth motor I put together is good for 9500, but is only going to 7500 with the current turbo setup. With a rotated 35r I expect we'll let the customer go a little past 8k. Cool, sent a PM.
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Aug 31, 2009 02:23
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Suspension question: I've got a 2006 LGT, currently running Racecomp Tarmac 1's (essentially a modified KW Variant 2 coilover) and Whiteline sway bars for suspension modifications. I'm about to pull the trigger on a set of OZ Ultraleggera 18x8 wheels and get some tires (leaning towards Bridgestone Potenza RE960AS, but waiting until my uncle gets in touch with his buddy the tire wholesaler to see what kind of deal he can get me before I buy). Once I have the tires mounted on the wheels, will I need an alignment or anything done when I swap the wheels? I don't think I should, but given that I'll be switching from the stock 17x7.5's to 18x8s, I just wanted to make sure.
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Aug 31, 2009 02:54
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Nope. But if you're getting another set of wheels why not go with a sticky summer tire and keep the stockers for all seasons?
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Aug 31, 2009 02:57
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I've heard good things about the RE960AS, primarily that it's a huge improvement over the godawful stock RE92's. I've got a couple reasons for avoiding a true "summer tire". I plan to swap over to Brembos, and I'd prefer to avoid having to buy another set of wheels for the winter. Furthermore, I live in Vancouver, so we get tons of rain, year round.
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Aug 31, 2009 03:13
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69sofine posted:How easy is really easy? I thought stealing any car was just a matter of hotwiring it. No. Not with modern immobilisers and key recognisers. A good security system will probably mean that at the least you do an ECU change. Frankly most cars are stolen by flatbeds by pros. A turbo timer does indeed bypass every singe bit of security and makes the car a piece of piss to take by hotwiring. A Turbo timer is one of the most loving stupid ricer bits of bullshit, especially with Subarus as they have a top tank that keeps water circulating in the turbo and cooling it even with the engine off. At the most after hard run, you might need to idle down for a minute or just do an idle down. And frankly if you cant stay in your car for a minute....... what, rushing for sex with Denise Milani and she wont put out if you dont run through the door???? The best way to cool down hot parts is to keep airflow going, so drive at a slow speed for a minute or so for the edge of the temperature to be removed. Turbo timers are simply smart people seperating money from dumb people. And the other point would be,.... what on earth would you be doing driving that hard of the street you would need a turbo timer for?????
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Aug 31, 2009 03:19
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What's the low down on late 80s L series wagons, the 4x4s? I'm thinking of buying one as a cheap run about (they can be had for under 2k here in Australia) but know almost nothing about them. Are they generally fairly reliable, or are there a bunch of specific things I should be looking out for?
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Aug 31, 2009 03:33
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Cat Terrist posted:No. Not with modern immobilisers and key recognisers. A good security system will probably mean that at the least you do an ECU change. Frankly most cars are stolen by flatbeds by pros. A turbo timer does indeed bypass every singe bit of security and makes the car a piece of piss to take by hotwiring. So does the turbo timer have any use at all in any car?
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Aug 31, 2009 04:32
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69sofine posted:Seriously? I've been driving like that for months. It's 3000 and up from now on. My '09 2.5i seems happiest shifting in the high 3's if I'm still accelerating.
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Aug 31, 2009 05:07
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69sofine posted:So does the turbo timer have any use at all in any car? If you have a just oiled cooled turbo like almost all of the Chinese turbos and a lot of JY turbos will be and want to get out of your car at the end of driving it then yes absolutely. I think the complaints about them made thus far are rather subaru specific. To imply that they don't have perfectly reasonable uses is sorta ridiculous.
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Aug 31, 2009 05:13
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I saw a 1998 Subaru Legacy Wagon at the local cheap dealership today for $2400. It has the EJ22 and only 150,000kms. I'm really tempted to get this as a second car. Since it has the EJ22 I assume its pretty much indestructible right?
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Aug 31, 2009 05:27
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RealKyleH posted:If you have a just oiled cooled turbo like almost all of the Chinese turbos and a lot of JY turbos will be and want to get out of your car at the end of driving it then yes absolutely. I think the complaints about them made thus far are rather subaru specific. To imply that they don't have perfectly reasonable uses is sorta ridiculous. quote:RE960AS Jamal, is there anyone you suggest for tuning? I don't trust anyone in the South Florida area. I have had several recommendations for Equilibrium Tuning. Is there anyone you might suggest?
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Aug 31, 2009 05:27
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topspeed is in ga, and will be in jacksonville next weekend tuning: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1818350 not really sure who else is any good out there.
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Aug 31, 2009 05:35
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jamal posted:best option is a set of used oem wheels. Pretty much any set of subaru 16s will work, and that way you get the right bolt pattern, offset, centerbore, and don't have brake clearance issues. I'm selling a set that would fit but I don't really want to ship them. You can get a set of 02-05 wrx wheels for like $120. Thanks for the info. Searching "subaru wheels" turns up much better results than what I was using. I found a set the guy claims came off a Impreza RS and he has used on his 2004 WRX. He doesn't state the size but the internet leads be to believe they may or may not be identically dimensioned wheels depending on the model year of the RS. I'm trying to get more info about them but he hasn't emailed me back yet. Are these wheels likely to be what I want or should I keep looking? EDIT: Forgot to ask - the 2008 Impreza has the TPMS. How much of a fit is it going to have if I put on wheels with no sensors? sbyers77 fucked around with this message at 08:41 on Aug 31, 2009 |
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Aug 31, 2009 08:37
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98-01 RS wheels are 16x7. After 01 the RS (and 02-05wrx) wheels are 16x6.5. either will fit your car just fine. You should be able to find some for cheap local to you in the nasioc regional classifieds. the tpms light will be on.
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Aug 31, 2009 08:42
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Thanks again. I am going to keep looking because I just realized he says they are a steel wheel with hubcaps. Not sure how I missed that part, but from the page I linked earlier it doesn't look like the RS ever had steel wheels (only the TS which is 15"). I'll try to snag some wrx wheels like you suggested. e: Paid $150 for a set of four near-perfect 02-04 wrx wheels today. Yay! Thanks for the advise! sbyers77 fucked around with this message at 10:34 on Sep 7, 2009 |
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Aug 31, 2009 08:58
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RealKyleH posted:If you have a just oiled cooled turbo like almost all of the Chinese turbos and a lot of JY turbos will be and want to get out of your car at the end of driving it then yes absolutely. I think the complaints about them made thus far are rather subaru specific. To imply that they don't have perfectly reasonable uses is sorta ridiculous. I'm not implying. I am saying it straight out and it's not ridculous - useless and dont waste your money. So when exactly was the last oil only turbo on a production car? That would be quite some time ago. And if you do have a oil only turbo, idle it down properly so you dont have to sit. How many times do you have a red hot blast and then shut down? The other thing is there is a real safety issue in a crash. The likelihood of not then being able to shut a fuel pump down in the event of a fire is real. The last time I saw a oil only turbo was on cars older than my VR4 - which already had water cooling and only got an idle down in an event. Unless you are doign some drag racing, why the gently caress would you remove water cooling? So I will say again, dont waste your time and money on a piece of poo poo that does exactly nothing and has a bunch of downslides.
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Aug 31, 2009 10:24
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CharlesM posted:Diablo Subaru is terrible. For any serious work I would drive down to Santa Cruz Subaru if possible, although that's about 85 miles. Santa Cruz Subaru sold me my car, I love those people to death and want to go back. The car wouldn't go into gear, I didn't really have the towing to say take it 85 miles back to the dealership who sold it to me. I got hosed by the situation.
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Aug 31, 2009 22:22
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RealKyleH posted:Peak is pretty much the most common brand of coolant from what I've seen. Why so picky about coolant brands? The info at NASIOC about coolant basically said "use only Subaru coolant as no other coolant meets their specs and it could corrode your engine". I found some other info at the Legacy Forums where someone found out that the same company that makes Peak Global also supplies to Subaru and that it met Subaru's requirements. I'm just having a hard time finding it anywhere locally. I want my Forester to last a long time so I don't want to use the wrong coolant and screw everything up.
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Aug 31, 2009 23:42
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Cat Terrist posted:I'm not implying. I am saying it straight out and it's not ridculous - useless and dont waste your money. So when exactly was the last oil only turbo on a production car? That would be quite some time ago. And if you do have a oil only turbo, idle it down properly so you dont have to sit. How many times do you have a red hot blast and then shut down? Pretty sure some but not all of the Volvo, SAAB and Ford turbos were oil only in the early to mid 80s. Quite a few of the Chinese turbos are oil only. Running oil only turbos is not uncommon in custom setups and plenty of people want to park and get out of their cars.
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Sep 1, 2009 00:08
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The TPMS warning light came on so I brought my tires up to the proper pressure last night. As of this morning the light is still on. I checked the pressure again to make sure there wasn't a slow leak. Will it reset itself at some point?
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Sep 1, 2009 14:16
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Did you check your spare? Can't speak for Subaru, but my 4Runner monitors that too and will throw the light if it's low.
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Sep 1, 2009 15:00
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Qapf posted:Santa Cruz Subaru sold me my car, I love those people to death and want to go back. That sucks. edit: It's not just your age. My dad had a hard time with his WRX at Diablo too. You don't know how white knuckled I was taking it to Santa Cruz when it would randomly shut off. The 17 would be the worst place to stall. By some luck it made it there no problem. Kia Soul Enthusias fucked around with this message at 15:36 on Sep 1, 2009 |
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Sep 1, 2009 15:32
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8ender posted:I saw a 1998 Subaru Legacy Wagon at the local cheap dealership today for $2400. It has the EJ22 and only 150,000kms. I'm really tempted to get this as a second car. Since it has the EJ22 I assume its pretty much indestructible right? Basically. Keep the coolant and oil levels at the proper points and it shouldn't be a problem.
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Sep 2, 2009 00:14
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Hey so I'm posting this here because I have a Subaru and don't want to make a new thread. First, here's my car - 98 Impreza.  Doing what Subarus do best during the Seattle Snowpocalypse last year. I'm currently looking to get new tires for it, and ideally upgrade to alloy wheels. I know virtually nothing about this sort of thing. I just don't want to be that guy who goes and buys whatever the local Les Schwab recommends My goal is to spend about $600 on both wheels and tires. Is that reasonable? This isn't a new or expensive car, and I don't want to dump a ton of money into it. But I get that tires can be a pretty important upgrade. I live in Seattle, so all-weather tires seem like a good idea, rather than something more street-performance-oriented. Is that reasonable thinking? I'm probably not going to be taking into the mountains a bunch, but it does rain a lot here. Are there any particular kinds of wheels I should avoid? I'd like something that's pretty...unflashy, maybe stock Subaru wheels? Are there any sizes of tires/wheels that I should avoid? Right now I've got 15" with a width of 195. They seem to be working out alright, but I'd be willing to go up a size if the price isn't bad and there's a good reason. Z fucked around with this message at 02:40 on Sep 2, 2009 |
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Sep 2, 2009 02:35
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bung posted:The TPMS warning light came on so I brought my tires up to the proper pressure last night. As of this morning the light is still on. I checked the pressure again to make sure there wasn't a slow leak. Will it reset itself at some point? Sensors need to be rolling to give an accurate pressure reading, the system will not check the sensors again until the car reaches above 25mph and stays there for a minute or two. Go drive.
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Sep 2, 2009 03:17
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Z posted:Are there any particular kinds of wheels I should avoid? I'd like something that's pretty...unflashy, maybe stock Subaru wheels? Check out NASIOC and see if you can snag a set of stock WRX wheels, any year 02-07 but 02/03/04 will be the cheapest (I grabbed a mint set of 02 WRX wheels for $175), they will fit and look good. For tires, what do you want, all seasons, dedicated summer tires, or snows?? I'm guessing all seasons. Edit: check out the Northwest Classifieds section on NASIOC, and keep your eyes peeled for wheels for sale locally, or even better, put a WANTED post up looking for stock wheels, people will be throwing them at you. Found a nice set of wheels and tires, but they're $700, probably could offer less: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1825749 TurboLuvah fucked around with this message at 03:29 on Sep 2, 2009 |
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Sep 2, 2009 03:25
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Z posted:Hey so I'm posting this here because I have a Subaru and don't want to make a new thread. Regular subaru wheels are really good actually. The cheapest ones are probably some older 15" legacy wheels. In 16", the original WRX wheels can be had very cheaply and they're pretty light as well.  You can easily bump up to 205 on either of those wheel choices. If you're looking for decent priced aftermarket wheels, Rotas come in subaru offsets/bolt patterns in lots of style. There's a lot of Rota hate out there, but you really can't beat them for a nice looking wheel that you don't have to take a second car loan out to afford. From your post though, it sounds like the original 16" wheels from the WRX would be perfect. They look nice without being over the top. dayman fucked around with this message at 03:29 on Sep 2, 2009 |
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Sep 2, 2009 03:26
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dayman posted:Regular subaru wheels are really good actually. The cheapest ones are probably some older 15" legacy wheels. In 16", the original WRX wheels can be had very cheaply and they're pretty light as well. I have two sets of these rims. I do the summer tire / winter tire switch. Seriously these rims are perfectly fine and dirt cheap. If you're on a budget like always am these are your rims.
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Sep 2, 2009 16:17
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Yeah I have WRX wheels of that type on my 95 impreza L wagon. I switched the front brakes for 2003 WRX parts and had a moment of hilarity when I tried to put the american racing 14" wheels back on that I had. Emergency call to my buddy who lived 45 minutes away and I had a set of "gently used" WRX wheels for the low price of $beer. Since then I've run hard on those wheels, in all sorts of rally like conditions (sideways in the snow, sideways in gravel, sideways on pavement), smacked a couple curbs, and run a mile or 2 with a tire totally aired down, they still keep air in the tires and hold the car off the ground.
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Sep 2, 2009 16:50
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Qapf posted:Sensors need to be rolling to give an accurate pressure reading, the system will not check the sensors again until the car reaches above 25mph and stays there for a minute or two. Slidebite's comment about the spare made me check it out. It was 20 psi too low so if there is a TPMS sensor there then that was the problem. It went out after I drove about one mile.
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Sep 2, 2009 21:35
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