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Got my skunkwerks decals put on. I figured since my setup is "rare" I'd throw in even more  with a skunkwerks decal....especially since they are now underground after Lockheed got all litigious over skunkwerks.  Click here for the full 800x600 image.
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Aug 13, 2009 21:03
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| # ? May 26, 2024 21:46 |
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Went up to URE with some folks yesterday... The lift works like a charm, was able to tackle some obstacles I never would have even attempted before. Of course, having half a dozen other jeeps with winches along helped the confidence factor. Not a lot of pics, because I was too busy having fun, but here are a couple and a cheesy video of me on Dutch John. Obligatory vanity shot  Group shot  Up & At 'em!  High-center much?  4dr Rubi sequence    Video. This is the chute on the Dutch John trail. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wIu_na-eIAo
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Aug 16, 2009 15:30
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Just picked up an 1989 Jeep Cherokee Laredo, its in awesome condition. Only issue is the automatic transmission won't shift properly, however if you shift it manually it WILL shift through all the gears. Tried looking at the Throttle Position Sensor, that does not seem to be the issue, someone else suggested adjusting the TV cable on the throttle or even replacing the TCU Trying to figure it out, hope to have it fixed soon. Any ideas?
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Aug 16, 2009 17:14
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It never hurts to try the Tv cable adjustment... that tends to be the first place people go when they think shifting is off and they usually gently caress it up. If it's the ratcheting kind (I can't keep track, and frankly neither could Jeep), adjust it all the way in and then stomp on the gas. Voila, instant starting point. The Jeep should be off, obviously. When you say won't shift properly, though, what's the problem? Delays in one direction or both, won't shift in one direction or both, all gears affected or only some gears?
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Aug 16, 2009 19:22
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Molten Llama posted:It never hurts to try the Tv cable adjustment... that tends to be the first place people go when they think shifting is off and they usually gently caress it up. If it's the ratcheting kind (I can't keep track, and frankly neither could Jeep), adjust it all the way in and then stomp on the gas. Voila, instant starting point. The Jeep should be off, obviously. Won't shift on its own at all. I unplugged the TCU and shifted through manually and it drove okay, so the transmission is fine. Its just not shifting when it should, it stays locked in 1st unless you shift it
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Aug 16, 2009 19:42
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Not an AW4 owner, but from what I understand shifts are controlled via electronic solenoids that the TCU operates. Placing the shifter into a specific gear also operates the solenoid for that gear. It sounds like you should be trying another TCU or checking power supply and ground to it.
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Aug 17, 2009 17:31
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I hadn't thought of this, but how will Chrysler's bankrupcy/sale affect Jeep?
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Aug 18, 2009 01:41
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Sasquatch! posted:I hadn't thought of this, but how will Chrysler's bankrupcy/sale affect Jeep? Probably won't very much. Sure there may be layoffs and whatnot, but of all the brands that makes up Chrysler, Jeep is by far the most valuable. Someone will snap up Jeep in a heartbeat if they decide to sell it.
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Aug 18, 2009 03:50
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Aug 18, 2009 19:01
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Looks like it would be fun in the snow 
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Aug 18, 2009 20:35
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Should I buy this Jeep?   For sale locally. 1978 CJ7 with 136,000 miles. Current owner got it a year ago and needs the money. Not much history on it, the body is rough (hence the rattlecan black). The bad: There are several spots on the tub rusted through. The front fenders have patches welded on. The window seals need replacing and the parking brake is disconnected. The front and rear differentials have air tubes running up to the hood(?). All the wires have been sloppily rerun up high. The suspension has been lifted, but with original leaf springs and shocks by flipping the axles under. (A plate is welded to the u-bolt axle bracket.) Fuel gage is broken. Gas tank may have rust. Needs new driver's seat. Runs w/o a key. The good: V8: AMC 304ci, 3 speed manual. After replacing the fuel filter it starts right up and idles fine. New 31" tires. 2" bumpers w/ d-rings and front and back 2" receivers. Transmission shifts fine and clutch is solid. Transfer case seems to do its job. Frame is solid. Lights, wipers, power steering and heater work. The asking price is $2500 but I think I can get it for $1900. I like it because its already beat on the body, but solid drivetrain. I wouldn't feel bad about a little abuse. I like it for the project aspect, redoing some of the wireing and fix the parking brake, maybe lower it back to stock height. Use would be weekend cruising, snow driving and moving boats around (ie putting in and pulling out but not towing on the highway). Price good, bad or run away? giundy fucked around with this message at 03:22 on Aug 20, 2009 |
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Aug 20, 2009 03:20
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Just put new rear pads and calipers on the WJ today. I'm lucky that I'm not dead with as far down as everything was wore. I would have addressed this a lot sooner but this layoff is a bitch.   I hope to hell nothing else comes up any time soon.
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Aug 21, 2009 02:20
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KickStand posted:As long as you stick to normal road driving and not towing you almost don't need your rears, though that's absurdly low. On a similar note I just swapped (my 80% left) NAPA pads with Hawk LTS pads on my XJ - better stopping power by a bit, but the NAPA's fade when I'm towing my boat - very bad. My rear drums do next to nothing. Kept the same NAPA discs as recommended.
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Aug 22, 2009 00:04
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I am having an overheating problem with my 1996 Cherokee. Automatic transmission, 4.0 motor, 4WD, 153.5k on the clock. I had been experiencing belt slip/squeal, and replaced the belt yesterday. Belt squeal is 100% gone! However, the vehicle overheated again today. I was stuck in traffic with the A/C on full (it's loving hot). So here's where we're at... - new water pump Dec 08 - new diverter valve/hoses/plugs/wires Mar 09 - new thermostat May 09 - new belt Aug 09 I pulled over and checked the fans; both were operating normally as far as I can tell. Coolant level is fine, however, later today I'm going to check the radiator with a hydrometer to check the coolant/water mixture. Am I looking at a new radiator if a drain/refill of 50/50 mix coolant/water doesn't stop this overheating problem?
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Aug 22, 2009 19:59
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giundy posted:Should I buy this Jeep? On the diffs, either A) the "air tubes" you're seeing are actually the vent tubes, and a PO extended them to the hood (to avoid water intrusion), or B) it has or has had air lockers. My only suggestion is that if you're looking for something to cruise in the winter or weekends, you might want to step up to a newer YJ with fuel injection, and less rust issues.
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Aug 23, 2009 01:26
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Wamsutta posted:Am I looking at a new radiator if a drain/refill of 50/50 mix coolant/water doesn't stop this overheating problem? I'm no expert, but try completely flushing your coolant system. A new water pump to me sounds like water may have been through the system for a significant period of its life. I did this to my Cherokee, just using a simple kit from the neighbourhood auto repair store and you wouldn't believe the amount of poo poo that came out of there.
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Aug 23, 2009 06:52
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I never thought I'd say this, but I'm becoming loving sick of my '01 (edit: XJ, durr). The two wall-of-text issues that are irritating me: 1) Tire wear (BFG AT KO, 235/75R15, 41k miles). The tread on the passenger side has suddenly accelerated wear as it goes to the outside edge (as if it has far too much positive camber, but that's obviously impossible), but the driver's side is wearing perfectly evenly (and has much less wear overall). The driver's side is probably at 75% tread with the passenger side at 30-40% max on the outside, particularly bad in front. It doesn't pull whatsoever. They were balanced and rotated last week, though I suspect Sam's (free) went front-rear (I'll go side-side when I get a chance). Aside from a slightly out-of-round wheel, all was normal. The only explanation I can think of would be driving behavior, but I don't corner it like an Elan (and even if I did, all ramps around here are clockwise). Stumped. Usually keep them at 38PSI with perfectly even wear up until now. 2) Left front speaker (trusty old Pioneer) cut out due to wiring. It used to cut out if I opened the door more than 5° or so, and recently wouldn't operate unless my door was open. Now it's gone completely. Looking at the godawful chassis wiring loom, it looks as if I'm better off cutting the old wire and running a new one up to my deck ('04 Pioneer DEH-4600MP). How far back in the dash is this loom? (I ripped it all out for a blower motor seal last January, but I don't remember...) And somewhat related to #1 - I'm looking at going with a 2" lift on this one using OME components (coils, leaves, shocks with JKS swaybar discos) and 30x9.15R15 BFG ATs, so I'd like to get tire wear in check before dropping the money for new ones. I know that some '00/01s are prone to driveline vibes due to the low-pinion D30, but does anyone here have any personal experience with this? I've done it with an HP D30, but that's not really feasible at the moment. OneOverZero fucked around with this message at 03:39 on Aug 24, 2009 |
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Aug 24, 2009 03:20
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Thanks to you guys I've been looking at getting some Hawk LTS pads for my Cherokee since my $10 pads kind of suck and I like pulling things around. Hawk's website says LTS pads are available in two thicknesses for my vehicle, but Amazon's parts finder says the thicker 0.677 thickness ones won't work even though other Hawk pads in the same thickness will. I'm assuming that Amazon is dicking up again, but why would you want thinner pads anyway?
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Aug 27, 2009 19:03
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Maybe you need more room to clear a wider rotor (vented rotor vs solid), so thicker pads wouldn't work. I dunno, just guessing.
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Aug 27, 2009 22:19
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I ordered some cragar 17" soft 8 steel wheels last night, and a new RC 6.5" lift for the XJ (witht he new control arms). I already have rubicon 32" take off tires and RE control arm drop brackets for it. Should be fun. Next I need to buy some open carriers, install aussie lockers, and have a shop install the 4.88 gears.
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Aug 27, 2009 23:59
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Jeep started losing coolant yesterday. Pulled it into my parents garage and inspected everything and the return line from the radiator cap to the overflow tank came lose and was rubbing on a pulley. Put a hole right in it. Easy $8.00 fix. Still leaking coolant, running down the front of the engine. I think my water pump went bad. What an awesome coincidence. 
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Aug 28, 2009 00:11
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Cat Hatter posted:Thanks to you guys I've been looking at getting some Hawk LTS pads for my Cherokee since my $10 pads kind of suck and I like pulling things around. Hawk's website says LTS pads are available in two thicknesses for my vehicle, but Amazon's parts finder says the thicker 0.677 thickness ones won't work even though other Hawk pads in the same thickness will. I'm assuming that Amazon is dicking up again, but why would you want thinner pads anyway? I just installed the thick ones (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CO66I4/ref=ox_ya_oh_product) and they were a whore to get on. Make sure you push the calipers ALL the way in. Once we got them on they work great. Make sure you burnish them according to the instructions on the box. Also turn the rotors if they need it.
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Aug 28, 2009 00:37
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OK I've looked all over the place and I'm hoping someone here remembers this and can help me find out who did it or where the thread was... A while back someone posted in this thread (which would be weird, because it's gone) or another thread here, pictures of a DC-AC inverter that they had installed into the dash of their TJ so that the outlets of the inverter were right where the ash tray blank was. Am I crazy or does any body else remember this?
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Aug 28, 2009 06:48
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It seems like the combination of a new drivebelt, thermostat, and radiator cap have helped with my Jeep's cooling issues. I've been running my ScanGauge all week and it hasn't gone past 230* or so (which is still hot, but it hasn't overheated once). Temepratures have also been lower which may be the only reason I haven't had a problem. In any case, I'm pretty strapped for cash at the moment, so if I can run the Jeep as it is until next summer, so be it.
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Aug 28, 2009 13:52
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Wamsutta posted:It seems like the combination of a new drivebelt, thermostat, and radiator cap have helped with my Jeep's cooling issues. I've been running my ScanGauge all week and it hasn't gone past 230* or so (which is still hot, but it hasn't overheated once). Temepratures have also been lower which may be the only reason I haven't had a problem. In any case, I'm pretty strapped for cash at the moment, so if I can run the Jeep as it is until next summer, so be it. Thats a little warm but I wouldn't fret any. my 04 with the 4.0 has always ran at about 210 after heating up. If you keep running hot just try and flush the entire system using a kit. I am surprise that no one has mentioned your radiator. If you run it through mud or off-road make sure your radiator is clear of debris.
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Aug 29, 2009 01:31
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Went camping again this past weekend and whilst out on one of the trails, we came upon this: Our Forest Service rocks. I talked with the ranger for a while and found out you can volunteer and ride along on the weekends. So doing that next summer. Some more pics:  Can you spot the Jeeps?   It's hard to capture the roughness and steepness of trails.   After wheelin' this weekend, my electronic swaybar suffered a malfunction. The light won't stop flashing as if it's in the midst of engaging/disengaging. So it's off to the dealer in the morning. 
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Aug 31, 2009 18:32
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I know you're in WA so where is that? I need to go.
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Sep 1, 2009 06:29
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Looks like somewhere near Rimrock, but I could be wrong. Baby steps with the XJ: Treks unibody stiffeners and AJ's SuperRails installed (need to dremel a little bit more to get the last bolt in). Funny how my mileage goes up almost 2 MPG with 90+ lbs of steel added on there. Must be because I took the bumper caps and engine skid off. Next will be a custom tucked front winch bumper with a grille guard and a tire carrier rear. (my hosting)   
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Sep 1, 2009 06:58
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incredibull posted:I know you're in WA so where is that? I need to go. The lake is Gallagher Lake on trail 4W301 - pretty easy trail (I saw a stock Exploder up there last time, although I'm sure it scraped a bunch). The FS Jeep and trail shots are the Van Epps Pass/Mine trail 4W302/303. Both are near Cle Elum, down FR 4330, past Salmon La Sac. Info and free maps of the entire Cle Elum Ranger District's ORV access: http://www.fs.fed.us/r6/wenatchee/cle-elum-orv/ Also, FYI: If you head up to Gallagher Lake, bring your fishing pole - I pulled a nice 13 1/2 inch rainbow trout out of there. Delicious! Another nice resource for Washington is https://www.nwjeepn.com. They have pretty decent trail descriptions and maps.
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Sep 1, 2009 07:12
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Ordered some soft upper sliders for the half doors (380+free shipping at carparts.com). Went ahead and started loving with the half doors in preparation. Click here for the full 800x600 image. I know they are/will be half doors with soft uppers BUT. What do I do about the lock. It works. But I don't have a key. Which is cheaper? To get a cylinder to use my current jeep key, or just get a key made to fit the door lock? I imagine the later. Do I just call a locksmith and say I want a key made or what?
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Sep 1, 2009 21:40
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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:I imagine the later. Do I just call a locksmith and say I want a key made or what?
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Sep 1, 2009 23:00
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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:Ordered some soft upper sliders for the half doors (380+free shipping at carparts.com). Went ahead and started loving with the half doors in preparation. Question: You ignition key fits in the locks, right? Though the doors may fit between years, sometimes the keyway changes. Assuming it does..... 1) First thing to do is pull the driver's side cylinder out and see if there is a numeric code stamped on it. If it is a factory lock, it should be there. If there is no code, skip step 2a. 2) Contact your local locksmith 2a)ask him what it would cost to have a key cut by code 2b) Ask what it would cost for the locksmith to make a key by impression; 2c) Ask what it would cost to have the lock re-keyed to match your ignition key 2d) How much will it cost to just replace the cylinders with a new set, keyed alike? NOTE: You may find that it is cheaper to purchase a set of locks, keyed alike, than it is to have the locksmith create a key from scratch, from code or rekey. Then it is up to you. How much do you want to spend? Will carrying more than one key be a pain the butt?
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Sep 1, 2009 23:50
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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:sliderz Keep us posted on the soft upper sliders. I'm looking to buy a set within the next few months and those are the right price.
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Sep 2, 2009 01:06
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incredibull posted:Keep us posted on the soft upper sliders. I'm looking to buy a set within the next few months and those are the right price. They were bestop and it was 399 shipped. 4wd.com and quadratec have them for ~460 plus around 50 dollars shipping and handling. I found them at carparts.com for 386+13 for oversized/heavy and free shipping with the code of SAVE. I contacted 4wd.com for a price match and they said they would beat it but I'd have to pick them up at a store. It looks like carparts.com uses usps to ship and it may take longer to get them but I'm REALLY not in a huge hurry. The bestop are nice because they can open from both ends. I wonder if the slider uppers will fit in a regular soft upper storage case/bag.
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Sep 2, 2009 02:54
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Braincloud posted:Went camping again this past weekend and whilst out on one of the trails, we came upon this: This is almost enough to push me into buying a Wrangler over a Cherokee. Not related: Do the rear seats in newer Cherokees fold flush with the floor in the back?
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Sep 2, 2009 05:44
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^^ Yeah, the bench part flips forward against the front seats and the backrest lays down flat where the bench was. Pretty cozy to sleep in, if you angle corner to corner or curl up a bit. Since the newest Cherokee you will find will be almost 9 years old, it'll be way cheaper than a JK or a TJ (unless you get a similar year 4-banger TJ). Then you'll have that much more to put into mods. Or, opt for the other cheap, utilitarian route with a YJ. As an ex-Wrangler owner, I enjoy my XJ way more which is something I thought I'd never say. The only thing I miss is the removeable top in the summer (doors still come off though). Philip J Fry fucked around with this message at 06:05 on Sep 2, 2009 |
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Sep 2, 2009 05:57
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upsciLLion posted:This is almost enough to push me into buying a Wrangler over a Cherokee. FYI my friend made it up both of those trails last year in his stock Cherokee. Just sayin'. Also, picked the Rubi up from the dealer. They fixed the swaybar light AND put in a brand new clutch. Apparently there was a service bulletin on it. They didn't detail it tho. Braincloud fucked around with this message at 07:20 on Sep 2, 2009 |
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Sep 2, 2009 07:16
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On my XJ: Can I install this 6.5" lift and do the SYE/cv shaft later or do I have to do it all at once ? I don't think I can complete the lift plus a hack n tap all in one day, and this is my daily driver. I was kinda hoping I could do the lift and then just not wheel it or drive too quickly for a couple days...
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Sep 2, 2009 13:09
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jonathan posted:On my XJ: Can I install this 6.5" lift and do the SYE/cv shaft later or do I have to do it all at once ? I don't think I can complete the lift plus a hack n tap all in one day, and this is my daily driver. It's possible, but everything I've ever read about said over 3 or 4" and you need the sye. You could risk dropping your driveshaft and pole vaulting into oncoming traffic. I'd be on the safe side and do the SYE first, then lift if when you get the time. Also, that seems like an awful lot of lift just to fit 32's.
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Sep 2, 2009 13:25
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| # ? May 26, 2024 21:46 |
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You can do a transfer case drop, just make sure your radiator fan isn't going to rub and that your motor mounts aren't cracked or in bad shape as the angle will add a little stress. Just get some long bolts and some sturdy tubing for spacers and torque it down. I drove my YJ like this for almost two months while waiting for the SYE to stock and ship and even with that wheelbase it was fine. Most kits are an inch-plus or so but probably not worth the cost if you can make your own.
Philip J Fry fucked around with this message at 13:51 on Sep 2, 2009 |
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Sep 2, 2009 13:47
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