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havelock posted:The lease on my z4 coupe is up in less than 2 months so I'm looking for my next BMW. At this point I'm leaning strongly towards an 04-06 m3. Any good ideas where to look? I would check https://www.bimmerforums.com also. Jimmy James posted:I'm a long time e30 fan. I recently sold my 325is, and am on the market for a Lachsillber/Cardinal e30 m3. I saw this one for sale a while ago here in Atlanta, it looks like a good car (pictures on page 2 of the thread). I don't know if it's still for sale, but it's worth a shot. http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1227329&highlight=e30+m3 Let me know if you talk to them and want me to check it out for you or something, I live in the Atlanta area.
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Sep 7, 2009 16:22
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:Axxis Ultimates Seconding this. I picked up a set and they were even cheaper than the OEM Jurid/Texar pads, and dust way less. They give a nice firm pedal feel as long as you don't overheat them, which you shouldn't need to worry about if you're not tracking the car.
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Sep 8, 2009 05:07
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SlapActionJackson posted:dust way less Respectfully disagree. They're an excellent pad, but your wheels will be JUST as caked with brake dust as OEM pads. Low dust pads are Mintex or Akebono. Medium dust pads are the Hawk street pads, Axxis Ultimates, and OEM. Lots of dust from anything that works well on track.
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Sep 8, 2009 05:18
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Pilsner posted:Is that the brake booster way at the front? Is there a pushrod from the firewall all the way to it?
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Sep 8, 2009 05:18
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Sterndotstern posted:Respectfully disagree. They're an excellent pad, but your wheels will be JUST as caked with brake dust as OEM pads. I had Mintex on my 325is before I put the Axxis Ultimates on and I notice maybe a little less dusting. What dust is on there seems to come off a lot easier than the Mintex dust.
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Sep 8, 2009 05:55
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peterjmatt posted:A simple google search would show you that in fact they do. Also, the wikipedia e36 model chart isn't very accurate- there was also a 323is in the states. The only one even hinted as being "328is" is a convertible. That one is a coupe.
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Sep 8, 2009 06:00
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LCN posted:The only one even hinted as being "328is" is a convertible. That one is a coupe. ...Like I said in the very post you quoted "wikipedia's list is not accurate". I've personally worked on a number of 328is coupes. They do exist. It was just a labeling convention for the sport packaged 328, though I think it was only used on coupes and convertibles. I can't remember ever seeing a sedan.
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Sep 8, 2009 06:14
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peterjmatt posted:...Like I said in the very post you quoted "wikipedia's list is not accurate". I've personally worked on a number of 328is coupes. They do exist. Must be an American thing then. Never ever ran accross one here in Europe.
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Sep 8, 2009 06:20
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Ziploc posted:Is that the brake booster way at the front? Is there a pushrod from the firewall all the way to it? Yup, a huge pushrod. It's pretty weird, but I guess there wasn't enough room in the back with the V8.
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Sep 8, 2009 09:39
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LCN posted:Must be an American thing then. Never ever ran accross one here in Europe. Pretty much this - it's the same in Canada - the coupes are designated with an "s".
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Sep 8, 2009 16:02
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Will wheels from an e46 fit on an e36? I have a '95 318ti, and I want some extra wheels to put snow tires on. I found some 15-inchers from a 2000 323i, but I'm not sure that they'll fit. Does anyone know?
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Sep 9, 2009 02:07
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They should fit, yes. The offsets between the e36 and e46 was very close (usually et 35-45), the hub diameter is the same (72.56mm) and of course the 5x120 bolt pattern is universal for modern BMWs. The only other variable is backspacing, but I don't think brake clearance will be an issue on a 318. Good luck.
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Sep 9, 2009 02:17
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Jimmy James posted:Sterndotstern posted:The parking lot at work this morning: In the same vane, my work not too long ago. My car (2000 328ci), coworker (86 325e), other coworker (?? Z4 Mcoupe)
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Sep 9, 2009 02:44
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I'm currently stationed in Germany and have the option of getting a 2010 135i built. With the M sports package and a few other options (European delivery, yes please) it comes out to 35k. I can afford it, is there any reason I shouldn't?
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Sep 10, 2009 10:52
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doogle posted:I can afford it, is there any reason I shouldn't? You'll earn the undying hatred and jealousy of everyone here.
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Sep 10, 2009 20:25
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The guy with the 530/5-speed came around and accepted my last offer. I'm having it inspected Saturday. He probably won't come down off the price any unless they find something crazy wrong with it, but the mechanic should at least be able give me a "go or no-go" for the purchase. Trouble is, he wants cash. No cashier's checks or anything. Actual cash. That's a bunch of money to be carrying around.
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Sep 10, 2009 21:13
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pyrrhus posted:The guy with the 530/5-speed came around and accepted my last offer. I'm having it inspected Saturday. He probably won't come down off the price any unless they find something crazy wrong with it, but the mechanic should at least be able give me a "go or no-go" for the purchase. I don't blame him, but be careful... Is there somewhere convenient nearby that'll have a cop standing around? (Here it's a particular liquor store) sanchez fucked around with this message at 21:27 on Sep 10, 2009 |
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Sep 10, 2009 21:25
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pyrrhus posted:Trouble is, he wants cash. No cashier's checks or anything. Actual cash.
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Sep 10, 2009 21:34
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pyrrhus posted:That's a bunch of money to be carrying around. Meet at your bank.
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Sep 10, 2009 23:03
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Saturday = banks close at noon. I couldn't get an appointment with the mechanic until 11, so meeting at the bank won't be possible. Ideally this would all take place during the week when we could meet at a bank, but he has a 9-5 and I'm from out of town. I thought it was a little strange, too. I asked around, and it appears as though everyone I know only deals in cash as well when it comes to private sales (boats, cars, trucks, and other higher-dollar items included). Supposedly bank checks are no longer sacred and can be held for up to two weeks just like a personal check. I've been to the guy's house - decent neighborhood, well-kept, etc. I don't think he's trying anything. And my concealed carry permit will be accompanying all that money.  If there was something major wrong with the car, it would either not drive so well and/or the mechanic would likely find it ... right? He is the second owner, has all the maintenance records, and has kept the car in very good condition. My four main concerns are that the clutch is getting a little old (still works great and has been subjected only to very conservative driving on the interstate), the suspension may need some updating in the next year or so (feels fine as of now), the front brakes probably only have another 5k-10k miles left in them, and he recently had the entire cooling system replaced about 10k miles ago when the water pump sprung a leak. The last one is the only real cause for concern. Clutch, suspension, brakes - all wear items and stuff that I can either do myself or have done at a reasonable cost. If the engine had overheated in a major way (though he says it did not), would the damage be readily apparent and/or would the mechanic be able to determine whether there was any lasting damage to the engine?
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Sep 11, 2009 01:08
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pyrrhus posted:If the engine had overheated in a major way (though he says it did not), would the damage be readily apparent and/or would the mechanic be able to determine whether there was any lasting damage to the engine? Best way to tell in a PPI is a compression check. Uneven readings mean a likely warped head, low readings mean poor sealing in the cylinder. My local independent shop charges $200 for this service, but you may get a discount as part of a full PPI. Side note: my local independent also performs almost a full PPI during an oil change, so you could just pay for that instead.
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Sep 11, 2009 01:40
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Sterndotstern posted:Best way to tell in a PPI is a compression check. Uneven readings mean a likely warped head, low readings mean poor sealing in the cylinder. My local independent shop charges $200 for this service, but you may get a discount as part of a full PPI. Is the compression check necessary under these circumstances, or is it worrying about nothing? The engine is just as smooth as it can be, and I can imagine it would run that well after 10k miles with warped/cracked heads or something. I hate buying used cars. It always feels too much like gambling, and no matter how much I like the car, I always second-guess right before the purchase.
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Sep 11, 2009 02:38
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pyrrhus posted:Is the compression check necessary under these circumstances, or is it worrying about nothing? Personally, I'd skip it. You've got a smooth running car -- he probably had it in the shop for an oil change, one of the techs noticed the small coolant leak at the water pump, and badabing, he's bought himself a new cooling system.
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Sep 11, 2009 03:28
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^^^This. Full cooling system redo necessary somewheres north of 60k. Be glad you don't have to do it yourself (mine was $1700).
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Sep 11, 2009 16:44
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I'm looking to buy a 2002 330i, but it looks like the airbag light is lit up on it. Doing some looking online, it seems that I can get this reset at the dealership. There seems to be nothing wrong with the car other than that, and the airbag apparently hasn't been deployed. Is this simply a glitch? or something more serious.
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Sep 11, 2009 20:03
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UncleMeat! posted:I'm looking to buy a 2002 330i, but it looks like the airbag light is lit up on it. Doing some looking online, it seems that I can get this reset at the dealership. There seems to be nothing wrong with the car other than that, and the airbag apparently hasn't been deployed. Is this simply a glitch? or something more serious. My understanding is that if you turn the ignition to the "On" position in the E46 while any parts of the airbag system are disconnected it will set a code that has to be cleared by a dealer. This is often mentioned in speaker upgrade threads, due to the door airbag. I'd still have someone scan the code and see exactly what the problem is before buying though, as I'm sure airbag system parts aren't cheap.
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Sep 11, 2009 20:42
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UncleMeat! posted:I'm looking to buy a 2002 330i, but it looks like the airbag light is lit up on it. Doing some looking online, it seems that I can get this reset at the dealership. There seems to be nothing wrong with the car other than that, and the airbag apparently hasn't been deployed. Is this simply a glitch? or something more serious. If you take it into a dealership for a pre-purchase inspection (which you should ALWAYS do with a BMW) they can scan the computer and see if the airbags have ever been deployed as well as reset the light.
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Sep 11, 2009 23:20
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 Just thought I'd hope over to AI to see what's up and to share a picture of my dad trotting around in his '73 CS Coupe. ...and my old coupe  and zee blitz car 
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Sep 12, 2009 07:13
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ArsenicWheat posted:
One picture isn't enough, you tease.
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Sep 12, 2009 14:59
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ArsenicWheat posted:God I love the styling on those.
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Sep 12, 2009 16:47
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after catching whiff of a ridiculously good deal on a low mileage '94 325i sedan 5-speed I'm seriously starting to think about hitting my 'gently caress it' point on my E30 and just getting that.
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Sep 12, 2009 21:37
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Jorsh posted:after catching whiff of a ridiculously good deal on a low mileage '94 325i sedan 5-speed I'm seriously starting to think about hitting my 'gently caress it' point on my E30 and just getting that. Join the club. E30s are loving great, but are at the point where you need a dedicated garage to work on one (or lots of cash to bring them to mechanics). Mine has been sitting on jackstands for 4 months now, waiting for various parts to come from germany. I think I'll stick with the iX as my winter beater and hunt for an E36 as a summer car, even though they are far less exciting.
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Sep 12, 2009 21:40
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Well, I didn't get mugged carrying all that cash, and I bought the car. Mechanic checked it out and found only minor, common stuff. More to follow (with pics) when I get back home.
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Sep 12, 2009 22:02
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Crustashio posted:Join the club. E30s are loving great, but are at the point where you need a dedicated garage to work on one (or lots of cash to bring them to mechanics). Mine has been sitting on jackstands for 4 months now, waiting for various parts to come from germany. To get my E30 to the point where I'd feel good about it I'd have to refresh all the suspension bushings, a bunch of new mounts, throw some new suspension on it -- and then I'd STILL be stuck with the M20 which I'm really growing to loving hate as an engine. I honestly don't feel like plunking money into that engine and I don't feel like plunking down money into an M50 swap on a car I just use as a daily driver. I have enough project car in my '72 2002 rat rod and it's parts car cousins that are littering my yard as it is.
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Sep 12, 2009 22:18
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pyrrhus posted:Well, I didn't get mugged carrying all that cash, and I bought the car. Mechanic checked it out and found only minor, common stuff. Congrats -- be sure to take it to the carwash/detail it before you get pics so we'll all be extra double impressed. Seriously.
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Sep 13, 2009 06:16
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Made a cake of my brother's car for his birthday. It's an E36. Click here for the full 800x600 image.  Click here for the full 800x600 image. 
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Sep 13, 2009 15:40
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Welp E36 I was looking at needs a new throwout bearing and cam cover gasket off the bat and I have no real interest in dropping the tranny on a car I'd be buying to specifically avoid that kind of poo poo. This has however inspired me to start saving my pennies up for a E36 325 or a E34 525i wagon to replace my E30 next year. Guess I get to go ahead and shove some money into my E30's brakes now.
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Sep 13, 2009 15:56
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edit: phew, finally got through the whole thread. My '97 328is needs some maintenance and I've come up with a little list including the parts I believe I need and I just need you guys to tell me if I'm good to go to bring some things up to date in preparation to possibly sell the car. I want an E36 M3 4-door badly and I'd like to get at least $4500 for the 328. LCAB's: http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/catalog/shopcart/BE36/POR_BE36_SUSshk_pg7.htm (page 9) RCAB's: http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/catalog/shopcart/BE36/POR_BE36_SUSshk_pg7.htm (middle of page 8 the Lemforder inner and outer RCABs) Front brake pads: http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/catalog/shopcart/BE36/POR_BE36_BRKpad_pg1.htm (page 1 at the top, OEM brand) Front rotors: http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/catalog/shopcart/BE36/POR_BE36_BRKpad_pg4.htm (page 6 at the top) Also going to give it a full fluid change including the diff. Hopefully by the time I get around to doing this, I will have bought a 3.21 to put on the car. The car has 150k now as of last month and has been running great. I'm assuming that I'm going to need to also go through the cooling system, as I don't know my car's maintenance history  . The fan clutch seems good as the fan will not spin freely even with a good shove. The car never seems to go past normal temp and runs really well - better and smoother than some cars I've driven with half the mileage.Another thing. My steering "pops" when I turn left or right any more than a half a turn or so. During any long sweeping turns left or right, I can hear and feel a little thud when the wheel needs to be turned any more than 50% or so in whatever direction. Did the new tie rods not get tightened enough when I had my new steering rack installed? I opted not to go for the lemforder tie rods, and went with another aftermarket brand who's name is escaping me at the moment. Does this matter? http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/catalog/shopcart/BE36/POR_BE36_BDYext_pg4.htm (need to get these as well due to some rust, page 4 the rear vent mouldings) I'd also like to refresh the shifting with a UUC kit, but I'll hold off for now. What am I missing, and are these the parts I should be buying? Gas Break Dip fucked around with this message at 05:02 on Sep 14, 2009 |
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Sep 14, 2009 04:58
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Gas Break Dip posted:and went with another aftermarket brand who's name is escaping me at the moment. Does this matter? I've heard bad things about the Karlyn brand, was it those?
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Sep 14, 2009 05:03
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CornHolio posted:I've heard bad things about the Karlyn brand, was it those? I bought them from BF.c member SQBimmer and they were described as "aftermarket" and cost $37 a piece.
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Sep 14, 2009 05:23
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