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Thanks guys, I'll keep an eye out for this super drill bit next time I'm out.
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Aug 28, 2009 13:55
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Naxr posted:And I'd assume that Green = Earth, Red = Live, Black = Neutral, unless they've been wired up by an idiot. You left out the white wire. If it helps, in America we got: white = neutral black = primary hot red = secondary hot (used for 3 way switches and the like) green = ground What kind of light box needs 4 wires going into it anyway?
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Aug 28, 2009 17:35
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kid sinister posted:You left out the white wire. If it helps, in America we got: Actually the white wire goes to the opposite end of the halogen bulb, its a loose cable that has the fittings on either end. I think I'll have it sorted now. I'll try hooking it up tomorrow morning, it's late now. Thanks heaps guys
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Aug 28, 2009 17:41
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This is a bit of a construction/should I do it question. I broke a window recently in an older house. Would it be more cost efficent to replace it my self or have the local handy man do it (he quoted me $300) more info is the window is a wood frame roughly 2'x2'6'' (I haven't measured it yet. ) most of the wood in the window was broken out and it's most likely I will have to replace the entire thing. So the question is can I (1)relativley easily remove the window from the frame (2) replace a window of similar portions (either salvage yard or purchase) and (3) replace with little worry about breaking the frame. The cost is kind of indeterminate since there are a few factors by can someone basically unskilled do this without risk of breaking things further and can someone point me in the direction of a good guide to replacing a wooden framed window (I assume it's different than a vinyl or metal framed window)
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Aug 28, 2009 21:31
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Naxr posted:Green/Yellow = Earth Thanks for this, the box lights up now! I've tried a few bulbs and they all flicker quite a bit but it could just be this particular light box I'm sampling.
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Aug 29, 2009 03:38
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spanky the dolphin posted:Thanks for this, the box lights up now! I've tried a few bulbs and they all flicker quite a bit but it could just be this particular light box I'm sampling. If the lights flicker no matter which bulbs you use, it might be the ballast. It's easy to replace those, if you got about 10 wire nuts. Just cut through the wires of the old ballast and match up the new ballast wires by color.
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Aug 29, 2009 03:51
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kid sinister posted:If the lights flicker no matter which bulbs you use, it might be the ballast. It's easy to replace those, if you got about 10 wire nuts. Just cut through the wires of the old ballast and match up the new ballast wires by color. Ah, thanks for the advice. I think I'll test out a few different light boxes first though, I have 14 of the things edit: Ah, it was the starter giving me issues. Working perfect now. spanky the dolphin fucked around with this message at 04:54 on Aug 31, 2009 |
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Aug 29, 2009 04:14
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I have a question about constructing boxes out of Plexiglas for an art project, but it is more technical than artistic. I would like to make rectangular prisms with sealed edges, and am considering using soder or glue--possibly a metal frame if needed. I have used a dremel on Plexiglas before and know it melts easily, but would like the effect/material of solder for the piece if it is possible.
daspope fucked around with this message at 17:37 on Sep 2, 2009 |
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Sep 2, 2009 14:03
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daspope posted:I have a question about constructing boxes out of Plexiglas for an art project, but it is more technical than artistic. I would like to make rectangular prisms with sealed edges, and am considering using soder or glue--possibly a metal frame if needed. I have used a dremel on Plexiglas before and know it melts easily, but would like the effect/material of soder for the piece if it is possible. What is your question? Are you joining two pieces of Plexiglas or two pieces of metal? and it's "solder" 
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Sep 2, 2009 16:40
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Sorry, I plan on making a clear six sided box with Plexiglas for the sides, and if possible soldered together. Or will I need to make a frame, screws or glue? As far as the strength of it, I want it to be able to hold it self together but I will not be putting weight on it. Edit: Now that I think about it, could I just melt the edges/corners together?
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Sep 2, 2009 17:35
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daspope posted:Sorry, I plan on making a clear six sided box with Plexiglas for the sides, and if possible soldered together. Or will I need to make a frame, screws or glue? As far as the strength of it, I want it to be able to hold it self together but I will not be putting weight on it. Solder sticks metal to metal. Heat-welding plexi in a way that looks good is probably not possible at the amateur level, but I'd like to know a technique if it is. You want to use 2-part epoxy; it's like a glue, but incredibly strong.
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Sep 2, 2009 21:32
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:You want to use 2-part epoxy; it's like a glue, but incredibly strong. J-B Weld is the absolute poo poo for this purpose.
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Sep 3, 2009 18:56
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I'm not sure if this post goes here or not, but it's worth a shot, I guess. I have a Hunter Grand Lodge ceiling fan with a remote control/receiver. I hate the remote/receiver, mostly because every six months or so, it dies. (Okay, solely because it dies.) I have another Grand Lodge in another room, and it works fine. Here's the thing: I just want to get rid of the receiver and wire the fan directly into the house. I can hook up lights and fans and stuff without dying, but where I run into trouble is the blob of electronics hiding within this fan. It's reversible, but that function is currently controlled via the scary (internal) electronics, and I'm not sure if they rely on the remote in any way. Aside from these mystery components, the fan itself has (if memory serves) standard wires: white/black, white, and black, and it wouldn't take much to wire it up and see which is which -- and I'd do that, if it weren't for the whole direction switching hullabaloo. Here are some pictures that may or may not make thing clearer. Or less so.     The wires coming out of the light kit (into the "cavity" with all the other wires) are just black and white; of those two wires, the white one disappears into the spaghetti streaming from the harness' backside (via a pigtail); the black wire is pigtailed to a black/white wire, which then disappears into the harness. Three of the five remaining wires in the harness (gray, yellow, and pink -- as well as the white wire from the pigtail) connect to various contacts on the switch; the other end of the white wire (again, from the pigtail, which actually consists of four wires terminated with a nut) disappears into the black thing, as does a red wire. (The gray wire that connects to one of the switch's contacts is also joined to the black wire that goes into the harness, so from that same point, both a gray and black wire connect to a pin within the harness). I'm tempted to just disconnect the receiver and wire the fan into the house anyway, except a) I don't want to risk frying it or myself, and b) I have a wife who'd be pretty mad if I created a paperweight out of a too-expensive fan. Wow, this post ended up becoming much longer than intended...and just because, here are two more "drawings" that might show connections better. (I can't get a picture of what the other blob of wires that connects to the harness looks like because it's dark and my wife is asleep.)   babyeatingpsychopath posted:The scary black thing is just a start capacitor. I assume the harness plugs into the receiver? If so, then the receiver probably controls the speed of the fan and the dropout time on the starting capacitor. This means it may not be easily replaceable. Well shoot. 
A Child's Letter fucked around with this message at 14:44 on Sep 9, 2009 |
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Sep 9, 2009 05:54
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The scary black thing is just a start capacitor. I assume the harness plugs into the receiver? If so, then the receiver probably controls the speed of the fan and the dropout time on the starting capacitor. This means it may not be easily replaceable. I suspect the yellow and pink wires are the power to the fan, and connecting them one way makes it go one direction, and the other the other, but without a start cap in there, it may just stay still and hum until it catches fire.
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Sep 9, 2009 08:37
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I need advice on UK window regulations - I'm having new windows fitted to a 15 yr old house (trust me, it needs them) and 1 fitter just asked me what I want, the other said I had to have an 'emergency exit' window in 'each habitable bedroom' If this is true I'm stung for a few hundred more, can't have exactly what I want <  > and I have to fit an 'emergency exit' window to a childs bedroom with a sheer drop under it.What regs apply? What's the legal status of these regs i.e. do I have to follow them or are they just guidelines? Where would I stand if the first dude fitted what I wanted and it wasn't to regs?
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Sep 9, 2009 21:28
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From what I've read it depends on your local ordinances. Call your local fire station and ask them about it. It also should be available from your town hall/local government office.
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Sep 10, 2009 14:19
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I have a mirror that weights 13 lbs and I want to hang it on drywall. Will four size 6 screws with plastic anchors be enough to hold it up if I don't drill into any studs, just drywall? I'm sure I'm being overly cautious but if this thing falls it will fall on my head when I'm asleep and I don't want to slice the top of my head off.
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Sep 10, 2009 17:48
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Human Tornada posted:I have a mirror that weights 13 lbs and I want to hang it on drywall. Will four size 6 screws with plastic anchors be enough to hold it up if I don't drill into any studs, just drywall? Hardware stores sell drywall anchors that are rated to a given weight. I browsed around a bit at this page does a fairly impressive job of demonstrating what options are available for you. Personally I'd go with toggle bolts. Regarldess 13 pounds isn't really a large amount. You should be fine.
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Sep 10, 2009 18:50
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Blowupologist posted:Hardware stores sell drywall anchors that are rated to a given weight. I browsed around a bit at this page does a fairly impressive job of demonstrating what options are available for you. Personally I'd go with toggle bolts. Thanks for the awesome link.
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Sep 10, 2009 19:11
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Blowupologist posted:Hardware stores sell drywall anchors that are rated to a given weight. I browsed around a bit at this page does a fairly impressive job of demonstrating what options are available for you. Personally I'd go with toggle bolts. That page advises against using nylon threaded anchors. I disagree - I routinely use them to hang small UPSes (battery backups), and have never had a single one fail on insertion or during use. They're also a fuckton stronger than the regular plastic anchors that you tap in, which routinely get screwed up during installation.
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Sep 10, 2009 20:00
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Richard Noggin posted:That page advises against using nylon threaded anchors. I disagree - I routinely use them to hang small UPSes (battery backups), and have never had a single one fail on insertion or during use. They're also a fuckton stronger than the regular plastic anchors that you tap in, which routinely get screwed up during installation. I wouldn't. Screw-in anchors have a tendency to crumble the drywall between their threads (esp. with older drywall), usually leaving whatever you hung on it broken on the floor and a 1/2" hole in your wall.
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Sep 10, 2009 20:48
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kid sinister posted:I wouldn't. Screw-in anchors have a tendency to crumble the drywall between their threads (esp. with older drywall), usually leaving whatever you hung on it broken on the floor and a 1/2" hole in your wall. This is more an issue of old drywall vs new drywall. New stuff: threaded anchors, either nylon or metal. Old stuff: tap-in or toggle bolts. There are also some anchors that work in old or new that work in a semi-toggle fashion, and work great in masonry as well, both hollow- and filled-block and brick. Edit: The Hilti Quick-tog are the ones I've used. We used Hilti fasteners exclusively for a bit, and their plastic tap-in anchors aren't the best, but their plastic and metal screw-in (HFP and HSP, respectively) are top notch. babyeatingpsychopath fucked around with this message at 21:53 on Sep 10, 2009 |
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Sep 10, 2009 21:48
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My first time grouting tile. I learned most everything I know from youtube. I used premixed sanded grout in a "natural grey." Pushed it into the gaps with a float, wiped off the excess at a diagonal, waited about a half hour and wiped off the area with a damp sponge. My problem is that 10 hours later, entire areas, as well as some small spots in otherwise fine areas have turned a yellowish, clay color. Its not like a darkness issue, partial dry thing, its an entirely different color. Is this going to get better on its own? Did I do something wrong?
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Sep 11, 2009 05:33
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I just went to replace my showerhead, as the landlord had left us with one that a) had a low-flow device built in, and 2) was starting to break. Once I'd gotten all the bits of the old showerhead off, I found what looks like a black foam or plastic just inside the pipe, obstructing 75% of the pipe. Is there a valid reason for this foam to be here? Is it OK to just pull it out?
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Sep 12, 2009 22:48
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eddiewalker posted:My first time grouting tile. I learned most everything I know from youtube. I used premixed sanded grout in a "natural grey." Pushed it into the gaps with a float, wiped off the excess at a diagonal, waited about a half hour and wiped off the area with a damp sponge. The yellowish bits are most likely the result of either overwetting, or a poorly mixed grout. The yellow is sand, that is normally mixed with the coloured grout, but has either clumped, or has had the grout washed off it. Your best bet is to scrape those bits out and regrout them, then seal. Doc Faustus posted:I just went to replace my showerhead, as the landlord had left us with one that a) had a low-flow device built in, and 2) was starting to break. Once I'd gotten all the bits of the old showerhead off, I found what looks like a black foam or plastic just inside the pipe, obstructing 75% of the pipe. Is there a valid reason for this foam to be here? Is it OK to just pull it out? The black gunk is probably degraded rubber from one of the seals. Pull it all out, and blow some water through the pipe to wash out any bits which have gotten stuck.
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Sep 13, 2009 05:08
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A Child's Letter posted:I'm not sure if this post goes here or not, but it's worth a shot, I guess. None of the wiring in that area is for the remote receiver. The receiver is in the dome attached to the ceiling. Most Hunter fans have a trim ring that hides two or 3 screws equally spaced around the dome (the thin part right next to the ceiling where the dome juts out). The trim ring sometimes turns and locks, and sometimes just snap-locks. Try turning it counter-clockwise and pulling it down. Above one of the screws you just revealed there may be a small notch with a tab sticking through. Get a second person to hold the fan from below while you remove the screws. If your dome has the notch and tab, it will hinge down on that tab, hopefully revealing a large metal loop on the ceiling bracket, and a matching hook on the fan's downrod. Hook the fan to this loop and your helper can let go for a while. If you don't have a notch, you'll most likely reveal a ball and socket type bracket holding the fan to the ceiling. Either way, once you've removed the dome, you should see the receiver, a white box about the size of a bar of soap, with a few wires sticking out. If you want to connect the fan directly to the house, just remove all the wire nuts from the receiver, and reconnect both fan and light hots to the incoming hot, and do the same with the neutrals. While you're up there, take a look inside the fan box in the ceiling to see if you can see a red wire that's not connected to anything. If you're lucky, the person who did the wiring ran 3 conductor wire to the box, and you can control the fan and light separately from the switch. If that's the case, remove the cover plate from the wall switch that controls the fan to verify that there's a matching red wire in there as well. Then, you can replace the single switch with a dual fan/light wall control and you won't have to rely on the pull-chains to control speed and light.
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Sep 13, 2009 06:02
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Going to be building a mount for a satellite dish today, I live in apartment and cant mount anywhere on the building, not even clamp it to the railing. Basically mixing concrete in a bucket and putting a piece of steel fence post in. I'm at a loss as to how to keep the post upright and level while the concrete cures for the next day or so. Basically what should I use to stabilize the pole while the conrete cures, so it doesnt move around and not be level? Also, what's something good to mix the concrete with? I've got a couple paint mixing sticks, but don't know if they're strong enough to mix concrete with. bradzilla fucked around with this message at 14:42 on Sep 13, 2009 |
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Sep 13, 2009 14:34
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bradzilla posted:Going to be building a mount for a satellite dish today, I live in apartment and cant mount anywhere on the building, not even clamp it to the railing. Basically mixing concrete in a bucket and putting a piece of steel fence post in. I'm at a loss as to how to keep the post upright and level while the concrete cures for the next day or so. Basically what should I use to stabilize the pole while the conrete cures, so it doesnt move around and not be level? If you just got a basic pre-mixed concrete, it should have enough viscosity to keep the post plumb and level once you adjust it, but if you want to be extra careful, drill 3 holes equally spaced around the rim of the bucket, just above the top of the concrete so they will let water drain in the future, then thread a string through each hole, wrap it around the post, and tie it tight. Once you have all 3 ropes tied, it shouldn't go anywhere. As for mixing the concrete, it's easiest to mix in a wheel-barrow with a hoe. If that's not available, check your home center for a concrete mixing bag, or a mixing barrel. The bag is your best bet, since it'll be cheap and you can throw it away once you're done. Once the concrete is mixed and poured in the bucket, form a mound around the pole, so any water will drain to the sides and go out the holes you drilled.
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Sep 13, 2009 16:53
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I'm trying to replace the battery on my mp3 player, but one of the screws (size of an eyeglass screw) is stuck as if they used loctite on it. I've let PB Blaster soak on it for a couple of hours, but it's been no help so far. In addition, the screw is getting stripped. I'm trying to avoid applying a ton of force to it since I don't want to damage the screen on the front of the device. Any tips?
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Sep 13, 2009 19:34
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NashAsh posted:Any tips? Use more force? You still have threads left on that screwhead, so use a screwdriver while you still can. The only other option would be to drill the screw out and use a screw extractor, but the drill could end up only hurting your MP3 player more.
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Sep 13, 2009 23:01
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Heat. I think that screw setting glues soften a little with heat, so a blast from a hair dryer could help.
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Sep 13, 2009 23:23
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kid sinister posted:Use more force? You still have threads left on that screwhead, so use a screwdriver while you still can. The only other option would be to drill the screw out and use a screw extractor, but the drill could end up only hurting your MP3 player more. Yeah, I've tried two eyeglass screwdrivers and the one screwdriver that came with the battery kit, and they are all made from pretty soft metal and are deforming under the torque. Do they make screw extractors that small though? I'll try the heat and hope that that doesn't harm the mp3 player.
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Sep 14, 2009 00:24
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NashAsh posted:Do they make screw extractors that small though? There is this set on Amazon. If not that, you could always heat harden a cheap screwdriver tip. Blowtorch or gas stovetop, heat the tip then quench...
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Sep 14, 2009 02:20
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NashAsh posted:Any tips? Try a flathead screwdriver.
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Sep 14, 2009 02:54
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Mthrboard posted::iamafag: Really?! That is awesome to know. I actually installed the fan (2x -- the receiver that's in there now is the second in less than a year, and I hate -- HATE! -- dealing with Hunter's CS), and I'm, regrettably, intimately familiar with installing and removing it. I'd actually bought a 3-speed controller to replace a normal switch with, and there is a 3rd wire in the ceiling box (there'd better be: we paid for it! -- also, it got in the way when shoving all those other wires back up there...) So it looks like I have a project tomorrow. I wasn't sure if I could connect the fan directly to the house wiring, but your post actually jogged my memory of connecting the receiver(s) in the first (and second) place...Excellent! Edit: I removed the receiver, replaced the wall switch with a 3-speed rotary fan controller, and after buttoning everything back up, it all works and my house hasn't burned down, so good! A Child's Letter fucked around with this message at 21:39 on Sep 14, 2009 |
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Sep 14, 2009 04:26
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NashAsh posted:Yeah, I've tried two eyeglass screwdrivers and the one screwdriver that came with the battery kit, and they are all made from pretty soft metal and are deforming under the torque. Do they make screw extractors that small though? Sure they do. Sears makes Phillips screwdrivers in their Craftsman line all the way down to #0000. edit: http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_10155_12602_00941645000P?vName=Tools+%26+Equipment&cName=Hand+Tools&sName=General+Purpose+Tools kid sinister fucked around with this message at 18:29 on Sep 14, 2009 |
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Sep 14, 2009 18:26
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edit: Never mind, it's busted. aehiilrs fucked around with this message at 03:54 on Sep 15, 2009 |
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Sep 15, 2009 00:22
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I've just splashed out a whole $27 for a used dishwasher on ebay. Apparently it works, it's just a little bit old & ugly. I currently renting a tiny apartment which has no separate taps for the dishwasher in the kitchen, so I was hoping to get some sort of adapter for my kitchen tap. Unfortunately the tap isn't threaded, so it's going to need some sort of non-threaded ->> threaded adapter (if such a thing exists). Has anyone had any luck with these sorts of things? How much pressure does a dishwasher usually require for the inflow taps? Since I'm only in this apartment for the next 6 months, I don't really want to get a plumber involved to install new taps (i'll probably just end up going without if it comes to that) Oh yeah, I'm in Australia, so any links to products here would be appreciated.
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Sep 15, 2009 00:33
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riichiee posted:I've just splashed out a whole $27 for a used dishwasher on ebay. Apparently it works, it's just a little bit old & ugly. You want to do it the hard way. Look under the sink. Does the hot water line have a valve on it with a piece of tubing screwed onto it? If so, you can shut off the valve, unscrew the line off of it, then put a splitter on in its place. You might want to put down a towel first to sop up the water from the short length of tubing between the valve and faucet. You then screw the sink's hot water line back into the splitter, then run the other end of that splitter to your dishwasher. Don't forget to turn the valve back on once finished! edit: you might also want to pick up some pipe thread tape while at the hardware store. You can get this stuff for next to nothing and there's no excuse not to use it. It has other uses too! kid sinister fucked around with this message at 06:55 on Sep 15, 2009 |
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Sep 15, 2009 06:51
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Thanks for the reply. Unforunately, the plumbing under the sink is behind some joinery, I had a quick poke around and it looks like it's going to be a pain to move. What's the chances of me just replacing the tap fitting?  Click here for the full 800x600 image. (excuse the dirty dishes) If i could just get an "outside" style threaded tap there, then I could just split it at the sink. Would look ugly, but I don't really care. So would that fitting just twist off, or are there some other fastenings keeping it there? I gave it a decent anti-clockwise turn (was reading somewhere that plumbing is tighten anti, loosen clockwise -- is this correct?) at lunchtime today, to try and loosen it, but it didn't budge. Going to spray some WD-40 in there tommorrow when I've got some freetime, then give it another shot. First I've got to find out if it's actually going to come off that way though!
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Sep 15, 2009 07:11
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