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Just Another XY posted:^^^ Check back a few pages, there's some guys with oil change recommendations, I'm lazy too ,sorry. sorry, I went back 20 pages ctrl+f'ing "oil" and didn't turn up any discussions on which kind to buy. stupid broken search... what's it been like 3 years since search worked now or something?
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Sep 15, 2009 00:07
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Wrar posted:Jamal, is there anyone you suggest for tuning? I don't trust anyone in the South Florida area. I have had several recommendations for Equilibrium Tuning. Is there anyone you might suggest? Surgeline is our big shop up here in the Portland area, their tuner Tim travels around the country though, not sure what his schedule is like now. You can also order custom maps remotely which come pretty highly recommended. http://surgelinetuning.com/aboutus.htm http://surgelinetuning.com/tunerequest.html
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Sep 15, 2009 00:13
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MMD3 posted:sorry, I went back 20 pages ctrl+f'ing "oil" and didn't turn up any discussions on which kind to buy. The beta search is working, but not great to use: http://forums.somethingawful.com/b/search Be sure to deselect all subforums via the icon and then reselect the relevant subforums (AI, in this case) Then check Show post previews so you can read the matching post text. Up to you whether you want to group by thread or not. In this case, you probably don't want to group by thread.
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Sep 15, 2009 00:24
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Definitely Tim Bailey if you're in northwest.MMD3 posted:what oil are you guys using in your WRX's? I haven't changed my own oil on the Saabaru yet but I think it's about time I started after the local quick-stop place charged me $65 for Pennzoil 5w30. any synthetic of the appropriate weight for your usage is fine. I use shell 5-40. for winter driving you could go down to a 0w-30. for track usage a 15w-50 would be better. I keep hearing negative things about mobil 1 so I tend to avoid it.
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Sep 15, 2009 00:36
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jamal posted:Definitely Tim Bailey if you're in northwest. rotella only comes in 5 and 15-40. Am I going to have a hard time if I use 15-40 this winter or do I just let it warm up for a bit longer?
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Sep 15, 2009 01:53
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Just took a new legacy with the Non-Turbo 2.5 & CVT out for a drive a test drive. I must say, I'm impressed. The inside is very roomy and comfortable with only a few quibbles (HVAC controls, info centre) but other than that, drat nice. In town performance was fine and power was actually pretty decent on the highway. Certainly no Turbo of Flat6, but easily powerful enough for comfortable driving. The CVT feels a hell of a lot better than the one I drove 1000KMs in an Altima with a couple years back. I give even odds that we'll buy one within the next short while.
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Sep 15, 2009 02:28
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Does anyone know offhand what front suspension parts on a 2002 Impreza would require me to get an alignment if I replace them? I'm just coming to grips with the reality that I'm suspension retarded.
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Sep 15, 2009 02:34
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most things. what do you intend to do?
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Sep 15, 2009 02:43
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I don't suppose anyone here has heard the P&L motorsports cat-back exhaust for the 2008+ STi? The quad tip, not the dual fart-cannon setup. I like the really deep sound, but I'm concerned that it's getting on the "very" side of loud. I kept my downpipe catted when I went with one of their packages, but even resonated I'm beginning to wonder if it might not wake up some neighbors. Also, I'm wondering what resonation does to the sound of an exhaust - will it change the pitch, or just dampen the sound? For reference, two of the youtube videos (if anyone knows how accurate they tend to be in representing exhaust volume/quality): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TE9nGWvGj1A&feature=related http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V95WX1lDybE If anyone has heard a really great exhaust for the 08+ STi's that keeps the quad-tip layout, it's be cool to get some other opinions. Also, is there any way remove the really loud whoosh-pshhh of the intake and blow-off valve (I'm assuming it's a BOV or something similar?) after the silencer has been removed. Does its removal really improve flow that much? It was entertaining to be a little fast and furious for a while, but it's quite loud even outside the car and makes my girlfriend laugh at me...
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Sep 15, 2009 03:25
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jamal posted:most things. what do you intend to do? Ball joints and an axle.
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Sep 15, 2009 03:57
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I think I'm going to go take a look at that 2007 WRX Limited this week, because I can't get this thing out of my brain. It has 2 months of Bumper-to-bumper and 2 years of powertrain warranty left so I'm not too concerned, but is there anything particular to this run of them to look out for? Typical points of failure?
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Sep 15, 2009 05:55
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Just Another XY posted:^^^ Check back a few pages, there's some guys with oil change recommendations, I'm lazy too ,sorry. a poo poo ton of oil (for track days) LCA bushings (Does the a common LGT issue) 2.5 sets of tires (also a set of snow tires with minimal wear) Few brake pads and rotors (because of the tracking) Auto-x only? Tires will be you only real worry.
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Sep 15, 2009 06:35
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nm posted:
I'll dispute that, but I'll reply in detail later tonight why.
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Sep 15, 2009 07:56
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Cat Terrist posted:I'll dispute that, but I'll reply in detail later tonight why.
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Sep 15, 2009 08:27
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nm posted:I won't disagree that it is hard on the car, but with the exception of a (63?) corvette losing a wheel, highly modified cars failing, and random failures (also, DSMs), I've not seen a huge number of auto-x related failures. Even tho the STI doesnt get out anywhere near as often as the VR4 did (yet), I'll report wheel bearing are giving me some grief (not uncommon) and I've had a set of pads and rotors trashed. Now granted I drive a HELL of a lot harder than even the average autocrosser, the WRX on the other hand is showing some accelerated wear issues with - 1) Rear diff has blown a seal 2) Center diff is definatly on the way out 3) Rear diff is also showing some signs of gently caress this I'm outta here - both are VLSD's which arent really that flash for extended hard driving 4) Shocks will be replaced v.soon 5) Front brakes - trashed Enough that I have a three year old car off the road and about to do a major overhaul. This is also a car that literally does 95% of it's kms cruising at 110kph. The other 5% it gets a right belting.... Wear and tear is pretty much as hard as you drive it is true. But racing WILL accelerate wear and tear.
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Sep 15, 2009 10:16
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slidebite posted:Just took a new legacy with the Non-Turbo 2.5 & CVT out for a drive a test drive. I had an Outback with the 2.5 while my Forester was in the shop and it really highlighted how much of a bonus the turbo is in my Forester. The Outback was downright sluggish - it was OK as a driving appliance but nowhere near as fun as my Forester is.
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Sep 15, 2009 11:17
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I have no doubt the Turbo (or 6 for that matter) would give it very nice kick in the pants and lord knows I'd like one... But, for our purposes this will be a mundane multi-purpose car that will not be driven hard, comfortable for travel and good fuel economy, the base 2.5 will have to suffice. And really, the meager 170/170 is certainly not bad in it. It feels better than the 4 cyl Vtec we had in our old Accord 5spd.
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Sep 15, 2009 19:57
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jamal posted:Definitely Tim Bailey if you're in northwest. What's bad about mobil 1? Because I've been using that for awhile now.
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Sep 15, 2009 20:03
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Bombtrack posted:What's bad about mobil 1? Because I've been using that for awhile now. Hysteria..its used a lot more then most oils, but has a higher rate of complaints or something. I use Royal Purple or whatever the hell personally.
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Sep 16, 2009 01:09
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It has more horror stories because more people use it.
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Sep 16, 2009 01:11
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could be. There are some oil analysis results floating around that aren't favorable, and I've seen a few sets of spun bearings on cars that used it. Reason enough for me to use something else, anyway. The big thing is still using a weight appropriate for the driving conditions.
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Sep 16, 2009 01:22
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jamal posted:could be. There are some oil analysis results floating around that aren't favorable, and I've seen a few sets of spun bearings on cars that used it. i asked this question before but you might have missed it. How bad is it to run 15-40 in the winter?
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Sep 16, 2009 01:45
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I wouldn't, but that's not to say you can't. I'm more of a fan of oils with a low first number, which is how the oil behaves when it's cold. When the motor is cold and starts is also when the bearings see the most wear, so using a 0w-something or 5w-something is generally better than a 10w- or 15w- I use the 5w-40 year round and have no complaints (and change it every 8k miles or so). I also found some inexpensive gauges recently so I'm probably going to put in oil pressure, coolant temp, and possibly oil temp as well: http://veisystems.com/d1-otfwtf-m.html a guy I know has a bunch in his race car so I'm going to see how he likes them and where he gets them. I'll probably see him this weekend. jamal fucked around with this message at 06:07 on Sep 16, 2009 |
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Sep 16, 2009 02:00
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I use Wal-Mart "Full Synthetic" 5W-30 and walmart filter changed every 2500-3000.
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Sep 16, 2009 02:17
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I use Walmart full synthetic 5W30 too, but in Canada their filters are made by Fram and I have heard absolutely nothing positive about them other than being cheap. So, I either get that OEM or go Wix at the parts store.
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Sep 16, 2009 14:27
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slidebite posted:I use Walmart full synthetic 5W30 too, but in Canada their filters are made by Fram and I have heard absolutely nothing positive about them other than being cheap. So, I either get that OEM or go Wix at the parts store. The newer, blue OEM Subaru filters are made by Honeywell (Fram) anyway, so you're not saving anything by going that way. They discontinued the black (made in HONORABLE YAMATO by Tokyo Roki) filters last year. I've been using the blue ones since I went through the two black ones I had lying around. I haven't heard of anyone having any problems with the new ones yet.
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Sep 16, 2009 15:22
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Bud Manstrong posted:The newer, blue OEM Subaru filters are made by Honeywell (Fram) anyway, so you're not saving anything by going that way. I drive a Toyota, no Subaru yet!
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Sep 16, 2009 16:44
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Stupid question time. Car is a 2002 2.5RS I picked up a Cobb rear sway bar locally off a guy and got a stupid good deal on it. Problem is it didn't come with mounting hardware. All I have is the stock stuff on the car, the Cobb swaybar, and some unusable straight ubrackets with bad bushings. What do you guys suggest I pick up or look for used?
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Sep 16, 2009 20:52
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Posting here because I didn't see this thread before... Hey AI: So I've stumbled across a really nice looking 2.5 RS, Silver, 75k miles. Body's in great shape, no rust, looks fantastic. Seller's seeking about 8k. What are the possible issues I could run into with this? I've wanted one of these for a long while, and I'm very tempted to put down the cash for it. Are there evil electrical demons awaiting? Headgaskets that go boom at 100k? Expensive scheduled repairs($1000+) in my near future? I'm curious to hear AI's experiences with these beautiful cars. Got a carfax on the car, no accidents or nastyness reported on this guy. Thoughts? Should I jump in? This car'll be my second car so it won't always have DD duty (Though it will see some autocross time).
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Sep 16, 2009 22:34
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I had the dealership replace the accessory belts when they were doing my timing belt service on Monday and ever since then, I get a high pitched squeal for ~5 seconds after I start the car when it's cold (it doesn't squeal when I restart the car on my way back to work after lunch). Do the belts stretch slightly after they're installed or something? Should I just go ahead and tension them slightly? It's a pain in the rear end to take it to the dealership, otherwise I'd just do that. If it's something more severe than a loose belt, I'll have to take it in I guess, but if I can fix it myself it'd save me time in the long run.
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Sep 16, 2009 23:12
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StarcraftM posted:Posting here because I didn't see this thread before... What year is the car? Head gasket is the big one on RS's, the rest is just scheduled maintenance unless you break something. On my 2002, all I've had done is the head gasket, timing belt, and thermostat. I've had the car for 4 years now and am at 120k miles.
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Sep 17, 2009 00:06
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So UPS just dropped off my new wheels and tires. I went out to try and install them, but I'm freaked out now. Car is a 2006 Legacy GT - I'm trying to find the jack points but to no avail. From what they show in the manual, it looks almost like I jack it up under the rocker panel itself - I started to do that, heard a bit of a cracking noise, and immediately stopped and tightened the lug nuts back up. Doesn't look like I did any damage fortunately, but I don't want to risk smashing in a panel or anything. I've searched all over LegacyGT.com, but no one gives any actual photos or anything. Some people also say to jack it up under the rear diff and the front engine plate, but I'd prefer to stick with what the manual recommends. Anyone able to clarify where I jack it? I'm using a jack that has a large round surface, about the size of a hockey puck.
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Sep 17, 2009 00:29
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pinch weld, chassis rail, rear diff, front jack plate will all work. The side skirt has a little plastic piece that buts up next to the pinch weld. that's probably what you heard.
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Sep 17, 2009 00:36
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Now when you say pinch weld, is that an actual part of the rocker panel? Like I can see underneath the rocker panel there's a couple indented sections that are about 3-4 inches wide near the front and rear.
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Sep 17, 2009 00:39
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the pinch weld is part of the chassis. Then there's a plastic side skirt attached to the bottom of the car that will be right up against it. You want to jack where that indentation is, which should put the bottom of the jack right on a thin vertical piece of metal.
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Sep 17, 2009 00:42
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So should any part of the jack be touching the actual painted plastic panel, or no? Sorry to ask retarded questions, but I don't want to mess anything up.
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Sep 17, 2009 00:44
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maybe a little bit right at the pinch weld.
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Sep 17, 2009 00:46
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The pinch weld jack point is intended for the factory jack, which has a vertical slot that it fits and supports the car on the flat horizontal areas.
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Sep 17, 2009 01:50
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Fresh new car experience: My 10-week old 2.5i just got keyed, b-pillar to headlight. Am I right in assuming that my only course of action is to admit that for the rest of the life of the car I've got a permanent testament to human nature etched into my car?
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Sep 17, 2009 02:13
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Just Another XY posted:Question: How many of you guys have auto-crossed your cars? (or worse, cat terrist I'm looking at you) I want to do some locally (San Diego), and while the fee to get in and materials is rather cheap, ~$40 fee, battery tie-down and helmet, I'm worried about long-term effects on my car. I haven't auto-crossed yet but I really want to. Try this site: http://www.sdr-scca.com/solo2/schedule/ for some local events.
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Sep 17, 2009 03:56
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