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Sadi posted:Yeah I think you need the V700 if you want to do 4x5
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Sep 13, 2009 15:48
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I was curious about C41 development and checked out some youtube videos (yes, I know, but this was just on a whim) on the subject. From what I saw it doesn't look TOO terribly complicated, just stricter tolerances, to the point where I wouldn't mind trying it myself. Has anyone done this recently? What's the go-to C41 kit? The one shown in a few videos was Unicolor which seems reasonably affordable when you put it side by side with the B&W developer I typically pick up.. I'd have to get a few new accordion jars but that's no big deal.
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Sep 13, 2009 17:00
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johnasavoia posted:Just bought a 20 pack of Superia 400/36, a 10 pack of Kodak max 800/24 and an 8 pack of NPZ800/36, as well as an XA to go with my XA2. I hope you didn't pay much for that Kodak Max. It's probably the single worst film I have ever used.
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Sep 13, 2009 17:01
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Martytoof posted:I was curious about C41 development and checked out some youtube videos (yes, I know, but this was just on a whim) on the subject. From what I saw it doesn't look TOO terribly complicated, just stricter tolerances, to the point where I wouldn't mind trying it myself. Has anyone done this recently? Just curious, but why do you want to develop your own C-41? Are you planning to push/pull/xpro/creative process your film?
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Sep 13, 2009 19:29
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Not really. Just to say "I did it", at least at first.
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Sep 13, 2009 19:38
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I'm doing some experimenting with film and dev combos (tried Arista Premium 400/Tri-X in WD2D+ and that came out pretty nicely), and I've got this roll of LegacyPro 400/Fujifilm Neopan 400 that I wanna try pushing to 3200. Obviously, the WD2D+ that I have won't do for pushing. So I'm looking for a liquid developer that I can use as one shot (because I don't develop too often) and has a long shelf life (because I don't develop too often...). WD2D+ is liquid, used as one shot, and has a long shelf life (my bottles are probably almost a year old and still going strong), but it's not good for pushing. I've been looking into DD-X and Rodinal (or the R09 stuff since it's cheaper, the same thing, and I can easily pick it up at freestyle). What do you guys think? Any suggestions?
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Sep 14, 2009 00:06
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krnhotwings posted:I'm doing some experimenting with film and dev combos (tried Arista Premium 400/Tri-X in WD2D+ and that came out pretty nicely), and I've got this roll of LegacyPro 400/Fujifilm Neopan 400 that I wanna try pushing to 3200. Obviously, the WD2D+ that I have won't do for pushing. Looked at HC110?
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Sep 14, 2009 00:21
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Sadi posted:Looked at HC110? Definitely HC110. I love that stuff. The bottle says to dilute it into a stock solution, from which you dilute into what you need everytime you develop, but you can just keep it in concentrate form in the bottle and dilute directly from that each time you develop. Kodak gives you dilution ratios for both concentrate and stock forms.
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Sep 14, 2009 00:37
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Radbot posted:Tri-X kicks rear end for pushing. Try it as 1250 or 1600 in Diafine, or push it in Xtol like killabyte said. It's gonna get contrasty quick, though. I think 1600 is taking it too far in Diafine; to me it looks good from box speed to around ISO 1000.
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Sep 14, 2009 01:43
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Sadi posted:Looked at HC110?
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Sep 14, 2009 03:14
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krnhotwings posted:Doh, I actually had that one written down to look into... Well, saw some samples on flickr and it looks great, and there's plenty of dev times on the massive dev chart. I'll probably get this one. Im loving it with Tri-x and txp. Ill post some samples of a worst case with it. Scanning the roll I shoot at 1600 asa and developed at 400asa. I cant scan the txp ive developed with it but I have a few scans of prints from those negatives.
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Sep 14, 2009 03:28
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Here's a great link about HC-110 http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/ I probably got it from a post here.
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Sep 14, 2009 04:01
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I've said it before and I'll say it again HC-110 4lyfe
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Sep 14, 2009 08:08
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killabyte posted:I hope you didn't pay much for that Kodak Max. It's probably the single worst film I have ever used. $16 for 10 rolls.
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Sep 14, 2009 14:09
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Shooting 10 rolls of it will suck then!  Today was the first real photography class in the Photo I course I'm taking. About half the class brought their cameras like they were supposed to. Of those about half had old cameras with dead batteries, etc. I'm pretty sure only one girl out of the 16 person class knew anything about cameras. The syllabus basically said bring a SLR with a selectable shutter speed, and b+w process film, NO CN OR C-41 process. So naturally there was the kid who showed up with a Yashica GSN (non-slr, no selectable shutter speed) and a pack of Kodak BW400CN that walmart sold him - along with the wrong battery for his camera  .Also the kid who showed up with a Canon Elan something which he had no real idea how to run. He would have been better off *not* buying a new, modern SLR for a basic photography course, but whatever works I guess. And the girl who showed up with a Zeiss Ikon Tenax I. Fortunately she had a couple cameras there and she's going to use the Canon AE-1 Program instead. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 16:27 on Sep 14, 2009 |
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Sep 14, 2009 16:17
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Paul MaudDib posted:Shooting 10 rolls of it will suck then! poo poo, when I signed up for a photography class you had to get instructor permission, which I think involved bringing your camera for approval, and then the first day of class was like, "there's a camera store in town, you should go there and buy Tri-X film and such-and-such kind of paper" and so on.
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Sep 14, 2009 17:28
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I used my AE-1 Program for a photography course last semester, there were about 4-5 people shooting film [color slides] the rest were using DSLRs. I wish there would have been a darkroom part 
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Sep 14, 2009 17:30
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I just finished my first roll of film (120 T-Max 400) since I was a kid and will get developing chemistry tomorrow and I'm so excited. It'll probably turn out complete poo poo but I'm genuinely looking forward to cursing in a pitch black bathroom.
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Sep 14, 2009 18:00
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Now I want a Betterscanning 120 film holder. I posted in the buy/sell thread but there are none on ebay and I've never seen one for sale ever.
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Sep 14, 2009 19:39
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Paul MaudDib posted:Now I want a Betterscanning 120 film holder. I posted in the buy/sell thread but there are none on ebay and I've never seen one for sale ever. What? Just get one from betterscanning.com . You probably never see one used because there's such a demand for them. There's like a one or two week backorder delay from the time you actually place an order. If you have an Epson V500 and do a lot of medium format, it's totally worth it.
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Sep 14, 2009 19:47
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HPL posted:What? Just get one from betterscanning.com . You probably never see one used because there's such a demand for them. There's like a one or two week backorder delay from the time you actually place an order. If you have an Epson V500 and do a lot of medium format, it's totally worth it. If they are so in demand there should be enough floating around that some are used, though? I suppose you're right and I should just pony up the cash. Know if it's worth it for the ANR glass insets and the t-lock thingies?
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Sep 14, 2009 19:50
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Paul MaudDib posted:If they are so in demand there should be enough floating around that some are used, though? Not if they're good enough that people are hanging on to them and actually using them. The main benefit of the holders is that you can scan more photos at once instead of the one or two that you can do at a time with the stock V500 holder. It's like getting an upgrade to a V700 for less money.
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Sep 14, 2009 21:02
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I just realized that unused/garbage film strips make for an excellent bookmark! 
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Sep 15, 2009 05:49
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Santa is strapped posted:I just realized that unused/garbage film strips make for an excellent bookmark! I use an old bus transfer but good idea ! 
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Sep 15, 2009 07:57
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There is an Olympus rangefinder with a 40mm 1.7 lens at my local photo store for 29 euro. I would like to purchase it. However this will be my first film camera, and I am clueless as to what film to try. I have literally zero preference or experience, other than knowing that both kodak and fuji make film. I have played with the DXOfilmpack, and if their treatment is accurate, I like Fuji Reala 200, however I have no idea how accurate it would be to real film. If I like people, and color, especially ones that preserve skin tones well, what should I go with? Preferably something color, and that I have some leeway with (like needing to shoot a stop under exposed.
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Sep 15, 2009 08:04
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poopinmymouth posted:There is an Olympus rangefinder with a 40mm 1.7 lens at my local photo store for 29 euro. I would like to purchase it. However this will be my first film camera, and I am clueless as to what film to try. I have literally zero preference or experience, other than knowing that both kodak and fuji make film. Try Reala 200 or another C-41 film for your first roll, for faster feedback. Avoid anything that says vivid colors, unless you like orange people. For your second roll, I suggest digging out a roll of Kodachrome 64, so you can have the experience before it's gone forever.
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Sep 15, 2009 10:26
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Snaily posted:Try Reala 200 or another C-41 film for your first roll, for faster feedback. Avoid anything that says vivid colors, unless you like orange people. And mail it from Germany to that one shop in the US that still develops it? Not sure if I'm *that* interested.
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Sep 15, 2009 11:33
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poopinmymouth posted:There is an Olympus rangefinder with a 40mm 1.7 lens at my local photo store for 29 euro. I would like to purchase it. However this will be my first film camera, and I am clueless as to what film to try. I have literally zero preference or experience, other than knowing that both kodak and fuji make film. I would also suggest trying Portra 160/400 NC and Fuji 160S and play around with pulling them a stop or two, you can get some really wildly deep shadows without ruining the colours in your highlights. Digital filter packs can give you a taste for the curves and colour tendencies of a film, but there's nothing quite like the dynamic range and fine grain of a good slow colour print film. I'd also suggest trying some cheaper slow films, local store-brands, etc and see if you're at all happy with them. Most of my 35mm colour work these days is on less expensive store brand films just to encourage me to be less afraid to shoot and there is less variance in quality on the low ISO end of the scale (also, a lot of what you'll find is simply re-badged fuji film). Welcome to the club.
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Sep 15, 2009 11:51
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Its my 21st in a month and my girlfriend asked me whether i wanted a really nice winter coat (which I am in great need of) or a Canon A1. I chose the A1. So it will be a very cold winter this year, but at least Ill be shooting film throughout it! Getting it a month early aswell.
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Sep 15, 2009 12:06
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poopinmymouth posted:And mail it from Germany to that one shop in the US that still develops it? Not sure if I'm *that* interested. You post it to Kodak Germany, they deal with all that and then return it back to you. Takes about 10 days.
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Sep 15, 2009 12:28
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Santa is strapped posted:I just realized that unused/garbage film strips make for an excellent bookmark! test strip supremacy 
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Sep 15, 2009 14:22
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I was just looking on Freestyle's overstock page and noticed that they have Kodachrome 64 Professional in stock for $13 a roll...it doesn't say it's outdated but I would be pretty surprised if it wasn't, as I haven't seen the stuff for sale new anywhere else. Does anyone know what the difference is between regular Kodachrome and the PKR variety? I'd assume tighter manufacturing tolerances or something, but that's just a wild guess. I also picked up 5 rolls of Arista Premium 400 for $2 a pop - For those who don't know it's apparently just rebranded Tri-X 400, just way cheaper. Yay old school Kodak stuff!
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Sep 15, 2009 17:14
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The short of it is that KR vs PKR is like a green vs yellow banana - the KR is expected to sit around on a shelf or in your camera and "age" for the perfect color balance, the PKR is designed to be frozen/refridgerated until the night before it's shot, when you thaw it, shoot the entire roll in a day, and ship it out to be mailed. I was out trying to shoot an assignment for a class and I slipped while changing a lens. No dropping of lenses but I put my thumb where it wasn't supposed to go. Later when I had time to check I realized that I left a greasy thumbprint on the (tiny) rear element of my 28/2.8. We'll see if the half dozen or so pictures I shot after that change are okay or not.
Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 17:47 on Sep 15, 2009 |
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Sep 15, 2009 17:45
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It's possible I'm just retarded and did something wrong, but who's the genious at Kodak (and possibly other companies) who thought it was a great idea to put a piece of tape holding the film to the paper in the roll? That motherfucker makes light when you rip it. I'm gonna try to develop this roll of film but if it fucks up I'm a bit angry. edit: 120 film, Kodak T-Max 400. sensy v2.0 fucked around with this message at 19:17 on Sep 15, 2009 |
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Sep 15, 2009 19:14
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sensy v2.0 posted:It's possible I'm just retarded and did something wrong, but who's the genious at Kodak (and possibly other companies) who thought it was a great idea to put a piece of tape holding the film to the paper in the roll? That motherfucker makes light when you rip it. Just cut it off next time.
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Sep 15, 2009 19:40
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Clayton Bigsby posted:Just cut it off next time. Actually I'm loving excited and won't be able to sleep until they dry but whatever.
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Sep 15, 2009 19:46
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sensy v2.0 posted:Yeah, I'll try to remember some scissors the next time. Anyway, I just looked at the wet negatives and I'm pleased that I can actually see pictures in there so I guess it didn't gently caress it up too much. For a first time since grade school or something I'm very pleased. The small amount of light from pulling the tape off (if you do it really slowly it really doesn't create any at all) probably was not enough to affect anything. Congrats on the negs -- it's always like magic to see them.
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Sep 15, 2009 20:00
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penneydude posted:I was just looking on Freestyle's overstock page and noticed that they have Kodachrome 64 Professional in stock for $13 a roll...it doesn't say it's outdated but I would be pretty surprised if it wasn't, as I haven't seen the stuff for sale new anywhere else. Does anyone know what the difference is between regular Kodachrome and the PKR variety? I'd assume tighter manufacturing tolerances or something, but that's just a wild guess. Yeah, Freestyle kicks rear end. I didn't even realize they had a "Hot Deals!" section... I'm REALLY tempted by that 100' bulk roll of outdated (5/09) Fomapan 100 for $17.99. A 100 speed black and white film will show zero difference at the date range, especially when stored by Freestyle, and that essentially works out to $1/roll of 36 exposures. drat.
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Sep 15, 2009 21:25
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dunno posted:I'd also suggest trying some cheaper slow films, local store-brands, etc and see if you're at all happy with them. Most of my 35mm colour work these days is on less expensive store brand films just to encourage me to be less afraid to shoot and there is less variance in quality on the low ISO end of the scale (also, a lot of what you'll find is simply re-badged fuji film). Even the digital print store near where I live has Superia 200 and 400 on the shelf. Superia 200 is a fantastic film for the price and convenience.
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Sep 16, 2009 01:56
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Radbot posted:Yeah, Freestyle kicks rear end. I didn't even realize they had a "Hot Deals!" section... I'm REALLY tempted by that 100' bulk roll of outdated (5/09) Fomapan 100 for $17.99. A 100 speed black and white film will show zero difference at the date range, especially when stored by Freestyle, and that essentially works out to $1/roll of 36 exposures. drat. I bought one of those bulk fomapan rolls. It's sitting in my freezer, not sure when I will get around to it, but yeah, it's a hell of a deal.
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Sep 16, 2009 02:07
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