Woodworking: Thank you for showing me the weird saw

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Hobbies, Crafts, & Houses > Woodworking: Thank you for showing me the weird saw

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elegant drapery: Oct 11, 2004

wormil posted:

Nice job, really. If you haven't already, you should consider attaching those bookcases to the wall so they don't tip over.

That's a good idea. It was built so that the books would overhang back slightly, but you never can be too sure.

The gf painted the nightstand white, and I decided to build a drawer for it. Needs a handle and the same stain as the top, a protective coating of some sort and then I'm considering it done.

# ? Sep 13, 2009 23:30

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# ? May 15, 2024 11:22

Alystair: Oct 11, 2005; Remain calm, we are in control.

Hey all, first time poster in DIY. I'm just finishing up a desk and realized I don't know anything about finishing. I want a perfect/piano finish yet didn't realize the need for wood filler (whoops) and I already have about 5 coats of clear satin polyurethane on the drat thing with pours just about everywhere. Also using a brush must be bad because it always needs that one-more-sanding that ruins the finish all over again. Help.

//edit//
Just read this: http://thewoodwhisperer.com/how-to-finish-without-streaks/
Looks like I'm off to the shop to buy chemical stripper?

Also looking for a more matte look than satin.. Blah.

Alystair fucked around with this message at 07:27 on Sep 14, 2009

# ? Sep 14, 2009 07:00

wormil: Sep 12, 2002; Hulk will smoke you!

Alystair posted:

Also looking for a more matte look than satin.. Blah.

Okay, before you start with stripper lets talk about what you have so far... If you have an open pored wood like oak then you'll want to use a wood filler. Tighter woods like maple do not require a wood filler.

Disclaimer: I hate wood finishing and always go for the simplest finish I can get away with. What I would recommend is heading to your local library and looking for a finishing book written by one of these three guys, Jeff Jewitt, Bob Flexner or Michael Dresdner. They don't always agree on technique but none of them will steer you wrong. Personally I have Bob Flexner's book and find it invaluable.

If you want a matte finish, you don't have to start with matte varnish. You can leave the satin and put down a topcoat of matte. What I recommend is sanding the existing coats down smooth and starting again wiping a thinned matte poly. It takes forever to build thickness by wiping but it sounds like you already have 5 thick coats anyway, just be careful not to sand all the way through to the wood, but if you do, you can always put on another coat.

# ? Sep 15, 2009 08:39

Alystair: Oct 11, 2005; Remain calm, we are in control.

wormil posted:

Awesome text here

Thanks a ton Wormil, I'll check out those books. Here's a pre-paint/finish shot of the 10ft monster:

I'll post comedic timelapse video later.

# ? Sep 15, 2009 17:37

elegant drapery: Oct 11, 2004

We're letting the polycrylic sit for another 10 hours or so, then we can actually use the top... but other than that it is done.

And I'm officially hooked on building stuff now.

# ? Sep 16, 2009 15:01

wormil: Sep 12, 2002; Hulk will smoke you!

Carta posted:

And I'm officially hooked on building stuff now.

Again, nice job, especially since you have no woodworking experience. Next time you can expand your skills and taper the legs something I actually managed to do with a circular saw ... once, then I bought a tablesaw.

# ? Sep 17, 2009 04:32

Saint Melmoth: May 1, 2007; If they are our brothers, why can't we eat them?--12 Famous Buddha Minds School

Okay. I'm planning out a project to build a workbench in my garage. I'd appreciate any input into the design.

The overall size will be 8' wide by 2' deep, with the top made of two pieces of 3/4" plywood. The bench will stand 36" high and will be supported by 6 4x4 posts at the corners and in the middle of the sides.

Along the back and front of the bench, I'm going to lap a 2x4"x8' board flush with the top and back (or front in the case of the front one) edge of the posts. I'll probably glue and screw these together. In between posts I'm planning to span the posts between front to back with more 2x4's cut to size and pocket screwed to the posts, flush with the outside edge in the case of the ends and in the middle of the center posts.

About 6-8" from the floor (suggestions, advice very welcome) I'm going to lap and pocket-screw another rectangular frame of 2x4's to support a lower storage shelf.

I've done a fair bit of remodeling, but this is the first real attempt I've made at something which could generously be called furniture. I'd appreciate any advice or criticism of my plans. I'd rather plan right than build wrong. I'll post drawings if needed to clarify what I'm planning.

Most importantly, will this design support a reasonable amount of weight?

# ? Sep 17, 2009 16:54

Dooey: Jun 30, 2009

Has anyone made anything out of this book? I saw one of these locks in action and I wanted one, so I'm building one. I have the book, and it doesn't look too hard, I'm just curious if anyone else has done this.

# ? Sep 18, 2009 03:38

wormil: Sep 12, 2002; Hulk will smoke you!

Dooey posted:

Has anyone made anything out of this book? I saw one of these locks in action and I wanted one, so I'm building one. I have the book, and it doesn't look too hard, I'm just curious if anyone else has done this.

No, but it looks interesting.

# ? Sep 18, 2009 06:50

grover: Jan 23, 2002; PEW PEW PEW

Saint Melmoth posted:

Okay. I'm planning out a project to build a workbench in my garage. I'd appreciate any input into the design.

The overall size will be 8' wide by 2' deep, with the top made of two pieces of 3/4" plywood. The bench will stand 36" high and will be supported by 6 4x4 posts at the corners and in the middle of the sides.

Along the back and front of the bench, I'm going to lap a 2x4"x8' board flush with the top and back (or front in the case of the front one) edge of the posts. I'll probably glue and screw these together. In between posts I'm planning to span the posts between front to back with more 2x4's cut to size and pocket screwed to the posts, flush with the outside edge in the case of the ends and in the middle of the center posts.

About 6-8" from the floor (suggestions, advice very welcome) I'm going to lap and pocket-screw another rectangular frame of 2x4's to support a lower storage shelf.

I've done a fair bit of remodeling, but this is the first real attempt I've made at something which could generously be called furniture. I'd appreciate any advice or criticism of my plans. I'd rather plan right than build wrong. I'll post drawings if needed to clarify what I'm planning.

Most importantly, will this design support a reasonable amount of weight?

You don't need 4x4 posts, 2x4 will be plenty strong enough. You will need cross-bracing, though, if you want it to stay stable. Also, some means to level it. (You can dispense with much of this if you bolt the back of it directly to the studs in your wall, as they're already cross-braced with the sheathing, and plenty strong enough for any vertical loads.)

I would recommend not messing with the pocket screws or anything like that. Just frame it up out of 2x4s 16" OC like you're building a house, set the posts inside this, and screw or bolt them together. Then throw one sheet of 3/4 ply on top (two is overkill- you can always add it later if you want) and BAM!

Lesson learned: you can't clamp very well to a bench built this way. When I built my new bench, I built the 2x4 box 1.5" narrower than my plywood, and screwed a 2x2 board under the overhanging edge. Gives a great place for reasonable sized clamps.

# ? Sep 18, 2009 17:03

calcio: May 7, 2007; No Totti No party

Is there any source for woodworking plans to make nicer looking furniture than the typical plans I find at Rockler? A few years back I bought the plans for their heirloom crib and made it and it is a nice piece but I'm having trouble finding anything else there that is nice enough looking I'd want it in my home.

For example I want to make a nice dining room table, something really high quality. I stumbled into the NW Fine woodworking store a few weeks ago and the craftmanship of the furniture there is absolutely stunning. I would love to be able to recreate something on that level or close to it but realize it might take me alot of time, practice and learning. For example here is their page ofdining room tables.

So I ask is there any woodworking plans of higher quality than the simpler stuff at Rockler or if I wanted to replicated something on the level of NWFW would I be best picking up some books (if so which ones?) or taking some classes somewhere? How would one get started to work towards making stuff on that level?

# ? Sep 22, 2009 20:56

wormil: Sep 12, 2002; Hulk will smoke you!

There are no shortcuts if that is what you're looking for. Creating high quality furniture is more than just plans and equipment, it does take practice and experience. Having said that, once you understand the wood joinery and some intermediate and advanced techniques it isn't impossible to recreate anything you see in a catalog. The NWFW website represents a variety of styles from Greene & Greene, Asian, classic to more modern, I don't know of a source for plans of that complexity and variety. Wood Magazine has the greatest variety of plans but they are generally intermediate level. Fine Woodworking sometimes has plans but they are almost always Shaker or Mission.

edit: here is a group for Greene and Greene style furniture
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Greene-style-furniture/

# ? Sep 23, 2009 05:53

TehSaurus: Jun 12, 2006

Hey folks, I started reading the thread on Monday and managed to finish the whole thing just now.

I've not done any serious woodworking, but I've done a couple of projects that I've enjoyed. I've been wrapping my head around a practical amount of equipment, and I think I can swing that. There's been some really great advice in this thread about tools. However, I don't have a pickup truck. The only way I can get a 4'x8' sheet home is to have them rip it to 32" in the store and chuck it in the car that way so that I have two narrower strips. I'm not totally convinced that this is a huge handicap since I can fit most dimensional lumber in the car as is, and it seems like hardwood stock tends to come in small enough pieces as well. I've been looking at a workbench for my first actual project because what else could be better to start with, but it seems that every plan requires that you can either surface your lumber, or that you use a big sheet of plywood. I guess I could make a smaller bench to start that could do double duty as an outfeed table later maybe.

Also, any thoughts about using a sled to make your bench planer serve double duty as a jointer? Is that something that could be useful long term, or would it get frustrating. The wood whisperer has a video where he mentioned it briefly, and it seems like a genius way to save on an extra tool when starting out.

Thanks for the awesome thread, it's made learning about this way more accessible.

# ? Sep 24, 2009 21:08

optikalus: Apr 17, 2008

TehSaurus posted:

Hey folks, I started reading the thread on Monday and managed to finish the whole thing just now.

I've not done any serious woodworking, but I've done a couple of projects that I've enjoyed. I've been wrapping my head around a practical amount of equipment, and I think I can swing that. There's been some really great advice in this thread about tools. However, I don't have a pickup truck. The only way I can get a 4'x8' sheet home is to have them rip it to 32" in the store and chuck it in the car that way so that I have two narrower strips. I'm not totally convinced that this is a huge handicap since I can fit most dimensional lumber in the car as is, and it seems like hardwood stock tends to come in small enough pieces as well. I've been looking at a workbench for my first actual project because what else could be better to start with, but it seems that every plan requires that you can either surface your lumber, or that you use a big sheet of plywood. I guess I could make a smaller bench to start that could do double duty as an outfeed table later maybe.

Also, any thoughts about using a sled to make your bench planer serve double duty as a jointer? Is that something that could be useful long term, or would it get frustrating. The wood whisperer has a video where he mentioned it briefly, and it seems like a genius way to save on an extra tool when starting out.

Thanks for the awesome thread, it's made learning about this way more accessible.

Do you have a home depot or lowes nearby? They usually rent a truck / van for $20/hr, and it doesn't even matter if you're buying the stuff there or not. In fact, the Lowes near my place stopped renting trucks so when I went to buy some lumber, I asked them about it and they referred me to home depot. You could just as easily rent the truck from your home depot / lowes, then go pick up your lumber from a specialty yard.

# ? Sep 24, 2009 23:57

mcrandello: Mar 30, 2001

You could also hire a small hertz/u-haul for around the same price. As far as using a planer as a jointer the thought had crossed my mind as well but I think it would be problematic for two reasons. One, the base on a good jointer is dense and will as much absorb shock as support your work. Without it vibrations from the motor will leave an edge that may still need work to be perfectly true. Also, and I'm not as sure on this one, but I think the drum that holds the knives has more diameter to make a smoother cut. It could probably be done well enough to get rough edges more or less in shape, but you'd probably still have to finish it with something like a handplane and a shooting board.

# ? Sep 25, 2009 02:57

LordOfThePants: Sep 25, 2002

I've been watching The Woodsmith Shop on my local PBS station and I've seen them use three different tools as a jointer. You can use a router table, drill press (with a sanding drum), or a table saw. The table saw looked really easy to do - you could make an auxiliary fence for your saw and swap it in and out as needed.

Of course, that'll only work for edge jointing. I don't know if it's the planer I use or just the way we dry wood, but I've never face jointed boards for my projects. I still wouldn't want to be without a jointer in the shop.

# ? Sep 25, 2009 11:48

Southern Heel: Jul 2, 2004

With hand tools, is there a quick way to cut 1/8" off the end of a 5x1 plank without going insane from planing the endgrain on a shooting board? to clarify, after the 1/8" is gone it's the correct length, so it needs to be as clean as possible.

I ask because I've done it a few times already and I can feel my resolve to complete this project slipping.

Southern Heel fucked around with this message at 13:43 on Sep 25, 2009

# ? Sep 25, 2009 13:35

TehSaurus: Jun 12, 2006

LordOfThePants posted:

I've been watching The Woodsmith Shop on my local PBS station and I've seen them use three different tools as a jointer. You can use a router table, drill press (with a sanding drum), or a table saw. The table saw looked really easy to do - you could make an auxiliary fence for your saw and swap it in and out as needed.

Of course, that'll only work for edge jointing. I don't know if it's the planer I use or just the way we dry wood, but I've never face jointed boards for my projects. I still wouldn't want to be without a jointer in the shop.

Yeah, I saw the stuff about using a table saw or a router table for edge jointing. They both seemed like great ideas except that they have very obvious depth limitations. Thanks mcrandello for the feedback about vibrations, this is exactly the kind of information I was looking for. I suppose I can always try it and if I'm not happy with the results I can get a proper jointer at some point down the line.

Of course, this is all academic right now as the first thing I have to do is clean up my garage and figure out how I can lay out a decent wood shop in there. I have plenty of space, but I've been using the garage as generic storage which will have to stop if I decide to get into this. And then the craigslist hunt for cheap tools.

# ? Sep 25, 2009 15:25

basx: Aug 16, 2004; Sassy old man!

I'm almost done building a fairly basic set of short bookshelves. The shelves themselves are white pine with one coat of pre-stain treatment, two coats of stain, and two coats of polycrylic. I'm going to cap the shelf unit with a really pretty piece of maple, but I'm concerned about how to fasten it to the shelf unit. I've stained and sealed the top and edges of the maple, but I haven't done anything to the bottom yet.

My main concern is that the pine and maple will expand differently once they're stuck together and cause cracking or warping.

Any advice? What's the best way to affix the two?

# ? Sep 25, 2009 19:22

Casimir Radon: Aug 2, 2008

I'm in the process of planning some hardwood bookshelves to replace my lovely wood-laminate ones. I've done some woodworking in the past, but don't know poo poo about joinery. So far I'm planning to use solid oak for everything except the backing, for which I'll use oak plywood. Dado's seem to be the easiest, best looking solution for attaching the shelves. I'm not sure if Dado's are the best way to secure the top, and bottom though, I've planned for a baseboard I'm sure how to go about secure as well. Any advice is appreciated.

# ? Sep 26, 2009 02:22

Archives: Nov 23, 2008

I was tired of mooching tools off the members of my family so I went out and bought about 100 bucks worth of them:

solid screwdriver - 14 bucks.
Blades for my coping saw (already had the saw)- 5 bucks
square - 17 bucks

Saws:
Chinese-made japanese stanley saw - 26 bucks
Marples Japanese saw - 15 bucks

I'm not expecting much from a 26 bucks saw but the prices for bonafide 10 inch japanese saws on the internet are much higher (this is all in canadian dollars by the way)

and a sharpening jig: 13 bucks.

I haven't found any good chisels or wetstones (gently caress mastercraft) so I'll prolly buy those off the internet. I've had good experiences with marples(irwin) chisels before but they dont seem to be sold in hardware stores around here.

Next step: buying some drat chisels and making a toolbox!

# ? Sep 26, 2009 21:30

Southern Heel: Jul 2, 2004

Jagtpanther posted:

With hand tools, is there a quick way to cut 1/8" off the end of a 5x1 plank without going insane from planing the endgrain on a shooting board? to clarify, after the 1/8" is gone it's the correct length, so it needs to be as clean as possible.

I ask because I've done it a few times already and I can feel my resolve to complete this project slipping.

Nevermind, I ploughed ahead anyway. My wooden jack plane's blade has dulled since last use and I didn't feel like spending hours sharpening it up (see previous posts, :sigh:

) - but my metal Record pulled through great, after I remembered to plane at a 45 degree angle.

I'm commited to getting my magazine trough finished by the end of this week - it shouldn't be too hard. It's been so long since I've been playing woodshop that I thought I'd refresh myself, and you guys too

The overall size is 16" x 6" 12", the materisls are maple and sapele. The walls are lapped into each other and fixed with dowels, and the floor has through-tenons on either end.

# ? Sep 27, 2009 12:25

TehSaurus: Jun 12, 2006

Archives posted:

I was tired of mooching tools off the members of my family so I went out and bought about 100 bucks worth of them:

solid screwdriver - 14 bucks.
Blades for my coping saw (already had the saw)- 5 bucks
square - 17 bucks

Saws:
Chinese-made japanese stanley saw - 26 bucks
Marples Japanese saw - 15 bucks

I'm not expecting much from a 26 bucks saw but the prices for bonafide 10 inch japanese saws on the internet are much higher (this is all in canadian dollars by the way)

and a sharpening jig: 13 bucks.

I haven't found any good chisels or wetstones (gently caress mastercraft) so I'll prolly buy those off the internet. I've had good experiences with marples(irwin) chisels before but they dont seem to be sold in hardware stores around here.

Next step: buying some drat chisels and making a toolbox!

Speaking of hand tools and sharpening, does anyone have experience with DMT Diamond Whetstones? They seem expensive, but I ran across this youtube of some hilarious (awesomely so) dude sharpening chisels with them: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iB8QQpr4L_0

Any idea if that's representative of their effectiveness? It's $100 all together from Amazon to get the coarse, fine, and extra fine stones. Kind of expensive, but if they are really as easy to use as that video indicates it would be worth it to me I think.

# ? Sep 27, 2009 15:41

Geop: Oct 26, 2007

Got an (unfortunately) vague question for you guys.

I recently visited home, and my old man had the old, rotten deck re-built using some cheap labor, so to speak.

What he bought is regular treated wood. I asked him if he opted for a certain variety, but he said it was just marked as treated. I'd assume this means pressure-treated?

Anyhow, he needs a sealant for protection against evil mother nature. Following that, he wants to stain it, which he has done before. The sealant is something he is uneasy about, regarding brands/quality. I thought "no problem" and googled it. Unfortunately, there was no really simple answer/result from this.

Can any of you guys recommend a good outdoor sealant for a treated wood deck? Also, a bit of a reach here, do you guys know a good brand/website regarding staining colors and such?

Much oblige, goons.

# ? Sep 27, 2009 19:59

LordOfThePants: Sep 25, 2002

Geop posted:

Got an (unfortunately) vague question for you guys.

I recently visited home, and my old man had the old, rotten deck re-built using some cheap labor, so to speak.

What he bought is regular treated wood. I asked him if he opted for a certain variety, but he said it was just marked as treated. I'd assume this means pressure-treated?

Anyhow, he needs a sealant for protection against evil mother nature. Following that, he wants to stain it, which he has done before. The sealant is something he is uneasy about, regarding brands/quality. I thought "no problem" and googled it. Unfortunately, there was no really simple answer/result from this.

Can any of you guys recommend a good outdoor sealant for a treated wood deck? Also, a bit of a reach here, do you guys know a good brand/website regarding staining colors and such?

Much oblige, goons.

I've used Deft Epoxy fortified deck stain on standard treated lumber with pretty good results. It's slightly tinted and available in a variety of shades. Depending on how long ago he rebuilt the deck, you may need to wait for the wood to dry out and weather a little before you finish it. When Dad and I rebuilt their deck, we actually didn't use the Defy product until a year later (I think we bought some "new deck sealer" that was specifically for new decks for that first year).

I refinished their deck after two years, but honestly it could have gone another year easily. My sister bought a house last year and finally got around to refinishing her (severely neglected) deck with Defy - I haven't seen it yet but apparently it looks very nice.

# ? Sep 28, 2009 00:43

Geop: Oct 26, 2007

LordOfThePants posted:

I've used Deft Epoxy fortified deck stain on standard treated lumber with pretty good results. It's slightly tinted and available in a variety of shades. Depending on how long ago he rebuilt the deck, you may need to wait for the wood to dry out and weather a little before you finish it. When Dad and I rebuilt their deck, we actually didn't use the Defy product until a year later (I think we bought some "new deck sealer" that was specifically for new decks for that first year).

I refinished their deck after two years, but honestly it could have gone another year easily. My sister bought a house last year and finally got around to refinishing her (severely neglected) deck with Defy - I haven't seen it yet but apparently it looks very nice.

Well, this was done just about a week or two back, so the wood in general is relatively fresh. We're getting lots of rain, so I'm sure how I can pull off letting the wood "dry", I'm afraid

I googled the subject and came up with an article referring to using something for the first twelve months called "new wood treatment". I assume that's what you're referring to? Source!

Geop fucked around with this message at 03:55 on Sep 28, 2009

# ? Sep 28, 2009 03:52

Mouse Has Knife: Feb 22, 2007; fuck your lower area

ChaoticSeven posted:

Go to Woodcraft.com and search for "Foredom" and "Power Carver".

Wicked, thanks much.

I've got a few more questions related to walking staffs if anyone has answers. (I love the information here)

1.) Once, out of about 7 staffs I've made thus far, I came across a particular fallen sapling. I started whittling away the bark when I noticed it was spongy enough to actually peel away with the hand. After peeling it all, the core wood was freaking perfect, no knife gooves, just an awesome white core with natural grooves that were smooth and awesome. I love how it feels.

I'd like to get that again. Could anyone tell me what type of tree this is from the picture so I can identify it in the future? (sorry for the quality. I can try to get better pics later.)

Click here for the full 401x1024 image.

2.) After a staff is finished, what's the best thing I can use to give the entire thing a protective glossy finish? (Preferably transparent, lasting and durable. Bonus: being able to keep an underlying paint job safe. Bonus 2: usable on clay for other projects if possible.)

Thanks guys

# ? Sep 28, 2009 20:33

LordOfThePants: Sep 25, 2002

Geop posted:

Well, this was done just about a week or two back, so the wood in general is relatively fresh. We're getting lots of rain, so I'm sure how I can pull off letting the wood "dry", I'm afraid

I googled the subject and came up with an article referring to using something for the first twelve months called "new wood treatment". I assume that's what you're referring to? Source!

Even with a lot of rain the wood will dry out over time. I built some raised planters for my mom for her birthday out of treated wood and they were so wet that I would get water squeezeout when I drove the screws. They've been sitting on their sidewalk for a month and a half now and they're significantly drier already.

I'm almost positive the "new deck treatment" we used was from Flood, but I can't seem to find it now.

And now for something completely different:

Anyone ever make bowls with the router using a bowl and tray bit? Do you need a variable speed router for it? There's a local guy with a Porter Cable 7518 for sale for a pretty good price and I'm trying to decide if I really need it or not. I've got an old Craftsman router (~1.5 HP I think) right now.

# ? Sep 28, 2009 23:50

Geop: Oct 26, 2007

LordOfThePants --
Found it! Flood Seasonite is what it's called. I read up on it some more and will recommend this to the old man. Much oblige for the tips! :unsmith:

# ? Sep 29, 2009 00:18

icky: Oct 2, 2005

Mouse Has Knife posted:

I'd like to get that again. Could anyone tell me what type of tree this is from the picture so I can identify it in the future? (sorry for the quality. I can try to get better pics later.)

From experience, sycamore behaves exactly like that, and since they are closely related I would be willing to bet other types of maple could well be similar. The picture isn't much help, but the wood does look very light which would be consistent with my guess.

# ? Sep 29, 2009 14:15

elegant drapery: Oct 11, 2004

Small update on my dresser
Started as this:

Click here for the full 982x756 image.

It's now completely framed out+a drawer, my g/f was kind enough to pose next to it [with her creepy rape face] for a size comparison. She's 5'8.

I'm making the drawers before I panel it so I can set up drawer stops as I make each drawer, in case anything is a tiny bit off.

Once every drawer is made I'm going to disassemble them and run them through the saw all at once to make channels for the drawer bottom. I did a test run on some junk wood just to as proof of concept.

That's it for now.. I still have 6 more drawers to make before I go any further.

# ? Oct 3, 2009 01:01

wormil: Sep 12, 2002; Hulk will smoke you!

Got Kelly Mehler's 2010 schedule in the email... if anyone doesn't mind spending money on woodworking classes from a master cabinetmaker... I've met the guy and seen his work first hand. His attention to detail and perfection is second to none.

http://www.kellymehler.com/newsite/classesandschedule2010.htm

quote:

Continuous Arm Windsor Chair with Peter Galbert New!
March 1- 6
Cost $875 - 1 space available
Materials Fee $165
Skill Level - Intermediate

In this class, students will create one of the iconic Windsor chair forms, the continuous arm. Starting with a white oak log, the students will split, shave, bend, carve, join and assemble their chairs while discovering the speed, joy and freedom of using well-tuned hand tools. The turnings will be pre-turned out of hard maple and the seats will be eastern white pine. Students can expect to work hard and learn about a variety of topics, from sharpening and wood technology to chair design and finishing techniques, along the way to creating a beautiful heirloom chair.

Windsor chair

About the instructor:

Peter Galbert is a full time chair maker living in Bethel, New York.
His work has been exhibited and collected internationally. He has taught chairmaking at craft schools across the country as well as at his timberframe workshop. He is also the creator of the Galbert Caliper direct reading caliper for spindle turning. To learn more about Pete, chairmaking and the life of a chairmaker, visit his blog at Chairnotes.blogspot.com or his website at petergalbertchairmaker.com. This is Peter�s first year teaching here at Kelly Mehler�s School of Woodworking. We are very excited to have him.

Registration Information | Participant Information | Past class photos | Top of Page

Hand-Cutting Dovetails - Weekend with Kelly MehlerMarch 27-28
Cost $345 - includes materials
Skill Level - Open to all

Find out that this preeminent joint is well within your grasp! This most beautiful, useful, and long lasting joint will be our focus for this two-day hands-on class. You will learn methods that may be difficult to read about, but which become very doable with hands-on instruction.

Here's what we'll do:

* Learn how to sharpen chisels.
* Lay out through dovetails and half blind dovetails.
* Learn methods for hand sawing and chiseling dovetails.
* Cut and fit through dovetails, half blind and mitered dovetails.
* View demonstrations and 1-on-1 instruction.

By the end of the weekend, you will have a good foundation for successfully adding several types of hand-cut dovetails to your woodworking repertoire. Your facility with tool sharpening will augment your ability to create clean and beautiful dovetails and other joints needed for your projects.

Registration Information | Participant Information | Past class photos | Top of Page

Build a Classic Side Table with Kelly Mehler
April 5-9
Cost $865 - Includes all materials
Skill Level - Open to all

In this foundational class you will build a small cherry or walnut side table. The side table has proven to be a popular project for both new and experienced woodworking enthusiasts. The side table class focuses on foundational skills including basic joinery, drawers, gluing, machine and hand tools use - all valuable skills used in nearly all woodworking projects. The piece that you create is adaptable to a variety of uses and can fit into many kinds of home or office decors.

The highlights of this class are:

* Tuning, sharpening and using hand tools
* Matching wood for a pleasing unified appearance
* Efficient machine tool milling
* Safe use of power and hand tools
* Mortise and tenon joinery
* Hand cutting dovetails
* Making and fitting a dovetailed drawer
* Gluing and assembly

Handouts and daily demos will give you step-by-step instruction and tips for successfully completing your side table.

As in all our small classes, you will work at your own pace and will receive lots of individual attention.

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adamc_toolchest

Build a Serpentine Table with Garrett Hack New!
Cost $925 - plus materials (participant information)
April 19-24 - 4 spaces available
Skill Level - Open to all

The serpentine curve of the front apron, the outward flaring sides, and the finely tapered and inlaid legs give this table poise and elegance. It's an excellent project for exploring design, non-square joinery, a variety of decorative techniques such as string inlay, and lamination to create light and very strong curved parts. Hand tools figure prominently in how we will work to size, smooth, and fit parts. The finished table could find a home in a hall, behind a sofa, or as a small writing desk.

We'll start out the week developing a full scale drawing of the table, from which we can "lift" all of the curves, the dimensions of the various parts, and the exact size and location of the joinery. The curved aprons are multiple layers laminated and glued over a form. To cut the legs and joinery we will use a combination of machines and hand tools � machines for the bulk of the work, hand tools for the final finishing and precise fitting. The top and legs allow the most individual creativity: in the amount of overhang, the depth of the under-bevel, chamfers, and decorative details.

I liken building this table to the proverb of learning how to fish, adding to your design vocabulary and learning a whole host of sophisticated hand tool techniques useful for whatever you build.

About the instructor:

Garrett Hack is a furniture maker, author, and woodworking teacher from Thetford Center, VT, where he also runs a small homestead farm. He originally trained at Boston University�s program in artistry and holds a degree in architecture from Princeton University. Internationally known, his work and Federal-inspired brick shop have been featured in numerous magazines and books, including �Architectural Digest,� �The New York Times,� and �Preservation� magazine. He is a contributing editor at �Fine Woodworking� and has written two books, The Handplane Book and Classic Hand Tools. Garrett spends about a quarter of his time teaching throughout the U.S., England, and Canada, and is former chairman of the Furniture Masters of New Hampshire. We are eager to host Garrett for the first time this year.

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European Relief Carving with Nora Hall Cost $475- includes all materials
April 30 - May 2
Skill Level - All levels

Old-style ornaments such as leaves, scrolls, shells, flowers, grapes, etc. will be utilized as a means of explaining classic European carving styles. The main area covered will be relief carving. Carving in-the-round, chip carving, and letter carving will also be included.

Initially, each student will become familiar with the seven basic tools by carving a simple design. Nora will work individually to perhaps suggest a second project and a third and so on. If time permits, high relief carving will be introduced.

Throughout the course, much one-on-one guidance will be given to ensure that correct technique is followed. Demonstrations and discussions will occur frequently, perhaps to stress a particular concept or to address students' questions.

This workshop is open to experienced and to novice carvers, with the outcome being that, at the end, each participant will have learned to achieve both quality and higher levels of productivity and proficiency through the techniques learned.

Students are welcome to bring their own tools; or, tools can be supplied by the instructor.

We invite you to join us for this very special opportunity to work with Nora.carved cradle

About the instructor:

It was Nora Hall�s life dream to become a wood sculptress when she was growing up in Amsterdam, Holland during the difficult years of World War II. Nora�s father, master woodcarver Johannes Leereveld, encouraged his daughter to attend the art academy in Amsterdam, which she did for one year. This brief study laid the foundation for an apprenticeship with her dad that continued for many years.

In the 1950�s, Nora left her native country and raised her family in the United States. In the 1970�s Nora began teaching classical-style carving methods to U.S. students of all ages.

Over the years, Nora has had the pleasure of having her work commissioned by the BMH Synagogue in Denver, US West, Hugh Hefner, Gibson Guitar, and numerous private collectors. She has also had her work and life featured in such magazines as Fine Woodworking, Woodshop News, Colorado Homes and Lifestyles, and Woodworker�s Journal.

Nora is still teaching and carving today, moved by her love of the craft she wants to share it with as many people as possible. We are thrilled to have her teach at the school! Visit her website at https://www.norahall.com

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Basic Finishing with Teri Masaschi
May 10-14
Cost $865
includes all materials
Skill Level - open to all

In this 5-day class you will learn a large variety of finishing processes as practiced in the non-industrial furniture shop. By the end of the course you will know how to fill grain, apply dyes & pigments, and put on hand-rubbed varnish, shellac, and oil finishes. Work on each of these techniques is done on your own sample panels (provided for you), and you may bring special pieces of your own wood to experiment on if you wish.

Through lecture and demonstrations, Teri explains everything from wood preparation to final rubbing out processes. This includes selection of proper abrasives, sanders, and fillers; layering of colorants; bleaching, glazing, and brushing; French polishing; and techniques for rubbing the final finish to perfection. You will leave with a better understanding of the range of choices for finishing your furniture projects from now on.

The week is loaded with hands-on practice, lots of discoveries, and loads of fun!

masaschi book

About the instructor:

Teri Masaschi started as an apprentice with a Fine Arts dealer in New Hampshire at the age of 14. Since that time she has spent a lifetime restoring, conserving, building/rebuilding and finishing antiques. Teri also finishes for woodworkers who use her expertise to finish their work. Other than a period of 7 years working at Woodworker's Supply as manager and specialist for the finishing products, Teri's career has been a straight line of creating fine finishes, writing about finishing and passing on some of her 41 years of knowledge through teaching.

Teri is the author of Foolproof Wood Finishing, published by Sterling Press. Visit Teri on the Web at https://www.terimasaschi.com.

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SidetableFelder Machinery : Building an End Table with Kelly Mehler
Cost $175 plus $120 materials
May 21-22
Skill Level - All

If you are the owner of a Felder/Hammer machine or you are interested in learning more about European woodworking machinery, this hands-on class is for you. You will make a simple end table with all of the pieces cut from one board! The table construction incorporates the use of several different Felder machines so that you can discover the accuracy, efficiency, and safety features of these tools.

The goal of the class is for you to observe and then experiment with the capabilities of the different machines. As such, the table is the vehicle for your learning and there is no pressure to complete the project. The pace is entirely up to you and you will be supported in your learning by careful demonstration and teaching by Kelly, a long-time user of Felder machinery, followed by your hands-on practice of each technique. Important maintenance and tune-up information will be shared through demonstration and question/answer sessions.

Here are some of the things you can expect to learn:

* Rough milling and final milling on the jointer/planer and table saw.
* Re-sawing on the band saw.
* Mortising on the combination machine mortiser and stand-alone mortiser.
* Tenon making on the shaper and by dado cutting on the table saw.
* Edge treatments on the shaper.
* Tapering on the jointer.
* Gluing, clamping, fitting joints, and assembly techniques.
* Safety considerations for each tool.

You will enjoy an action-packed two days with good learning, excellent information, and a convivial atmosphere! For more information, or to register for this class, go to: Felder USA or call toll free at 866-792-5288

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planesPlane Making: Wooden Molding Planes with Larry Williams & Don McConnellMay 31- June 4
Cost $875 - includes all materials
Skill Level - Intermediate

For many woodworkers, there are few more gratifying experiences than producing their own tools. With hand tools and traditional techniques, we'll each make a pair of #8 hollow and round planes that share the features and function of those made by the best plane makers of the past.

We'll explore the history of molding planes and their evolution. While molding planes appear simple, they are highly evolved tools with often subtle features that make a difference in their use. Our planes will incorporate important details that enable greater utility and agility.

There are many easily learned skills involved which also transfer to other aspects of woodworking. We'll learn dependable and repeatable sharpening techniques that apply to profiled tools like those used in carving and to more common straight edged tools like bench chisels and bench planes. Each participant will also learn to easily and accurately heat treat tool steel for the planes produced in this project and for future needs.

You'll gain experience with tools you may not have used before. Floats will enable you to work deep into places you can barely see into and to do it accurately. Gimlet bits will allow you to "steer" hand-bored holes exactly where you want and need them.

We'll end by surveying some basic techniques of using hollow & round planes to produce classic molding profiles. You'll be able to experiment with creating a few traditional moldings with your new planes and to try out a few dedicated molding planes as well.

You'll leave the workshop enabled by new skills, fresh knowledge, confidence and a pair of hollow and round planes you'll be able to use to enhance your future work.

About the instructors:

In 2006, Larry Williams was honored with the "Living Treasure" award from the Arkansas Department of Cultural Heritage for his efforts in reviving the traditional craft of making wooden planes. Lie-Nielsen recently released Larry's DVD on plane making. Larry worked in architectural woodworking for 25 years and began experimenting with plane making in the late 1970's. His work and articles have been featured in a number of woodworking books and magazines. Larry is a partner in Clark & Williams, who produce traditional Western-style wooden planes.

Don McConnell made his first wooden planes in the late-1970's while building furniture in the cabinet shop of the Ohio Village. He continued his plane making activities over the following years while building custom furniture in traditional styles and undertaking one-of-a-kind architectural woodwork including carved elements of geometric handrails. His work has been featured in several magazines and exhibits. A former contributing editor for Popular Woodworking magazine, Don is also co-author of Hand-Saw Makers of Britain.

More than 300 Clark & Williams planes are currently in use in the Conservation and Historic Trades Departments at Colonial Williamsburg.

Visit their website at https://www.planemaker.com

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molding_techniquesUsing Wooden Molding Planes with Williams & McConnell
June 5-6
Cost $385 - includes all materials
Skill Level - open to all

Learn how you can enrich your furniture projects, with complete freedom, through the use of hollows & rounds, and a few associated hand planes. Begin by gaining a familiarity with the "vocabulary" of classical moldings, their characteristics, uses, and designs. Learn to design your own classical moldings which are informed by proportions and principles found in the classical orders, also with an eye toward the tools used to create them. This will be re-enforced by hands-on experience designing, laying out, and executing several classical moldings. Along the way, we'll discuss the selection, tuning, sharpening and use of a variety of molding planes. Skills and knowledge which you can take home to your own shop.

Finally, we will explore ways in which these classical techniques and tools can be used to enhance more contemporary furniture projects to personal taste. The emphasis will be on learning to add visual and tactile interest, while manipulating the visual weight and relationships of various elements of your projects. Enabled by this skill and knowledge, the "profiles" of your projects need be limited only by your imagination.

About the instructors:

In 2006, Larry Williams was honored with the "Living Treasure" award from the Arkansas Department of Cultural Heritage for his efforts in reviving the traditional craft of making wooden planes. Lie-Nielsen recently released Larry's DVD on plane making. Larry worked in architectural woodworking for 25 years and began experimenting with plane making in the late 1970's. His work and articles have been featured in a number of woodworking books and magazines. Larry is a partner in Clark & Williams, who produce traditional Western-style wooden planes. More than 300 Clark & Williams planes are currently in use in the Conservation and Historic Trades Departments at Colonial Williamsburg.

Don McConnell made his first wooden planes in the late-1970's while building furniture in the cabinet shop of the Ohio Village. He continued his plane making activities over the following years while building custom furniture in traditional styles and undertaking one-of-a-kind architectural woodwork including carved elements of geometric handrails. His work has been featured in several magazines and exhibits. A former contributing editor for Popular Woodworking magazine, Don is also co-author of Hand-Saw Makers of Britain.

visit their website at https://www.planemaker.com

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Turning for Furniture Making with Nick Cook
June 14-18
Cost $795 - 2 spaces available
Materials $85
Skill Level - Open to all

This class is designed for woodworkers interested in adding turned parts to their furniture projects. Students can expect to learn, practice and execute the techniques for making most of the turned parts that may be found in a piece of furniture.

The projects you create will include matched table legs, bun feet, finials, drawer pulls, a table lamp, a small 3-legged stool and a larger 4- legged stool.

We will start with an introduction to the lathe, safety, turning tools and sharpening techniques. Students will learn to sharpen their turning tools, and will practice proper cutting techniques.

You will practice a variety of cuts and learn to make the basic shapes required for spindle turning. Some faceplate work will also be included. We will also discuss stock preparation, layout techniques and how to create duplicate parts.

Nick will discuss and demonstrate:

* Both spindle and faceplate turning techniques.
* A variety of chucking methods.
* Sanding and finishing possibilities (supplied for you at the school.)

Students will have their own lathes for the week. Don't miss this special class with an amazing amount of skill practice and lots of enjoyment!

About the instructor:

Nick Cook is a full time production turner producing a wide variety of gift items, one of a kind bowls & vessels as well as work for furniture makers and millwork contractors. He spends much of his time teaching both individuals and groups throughout the country. He has done workshops for woodturning groups in Australia, New Zealand and England. He has also participated in the national woodturning symposiums in England, New Zealand and the US. He is a founding member of the American Association of Woodturners and has served as vice president and conference coordinator. Nick was named the 12 th honorary lifetime member of the AAW. He has written numerous articles for various woodturning publications including Woodworkers Journal and American Woodworker. He is a contributing editor for American Woodturner. Visit his website at https://www.nickcookwoodturner.com

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federal card tableFederal Card Table with Glen Huey
June 28 - July 3 - 3 spaces available
Cost $925 includes some materials

Student provides wood using the provided cut list
Skill Level - Intermediate

The most popular pieces of furniture built during the Federal period were card tables. Many shapes and designs were built, but the half-round form was the design of choice.

This table is based on a fine example of Southern, Federal craftsmanship built in Baltimore circa 1795 � 1810. The original table is part of the Colonial Williamsburg Collection. In this class you�ll construct a modified table with many of the same characteristics used on the original. This piece has many practical uses in your home and is destined to become a piece of furniture to be treasured for generations to come.

The focus of the class will be on the bricking of the front apron; simple veneering, inlay of string, banding and patera, multiple joinery techniques and period construction details.

You can expect to learn:

* How to cut half-blind dovetails and bridle joints.
* Steps for making a knuckle joint used to swing both rear legs on your table.
* Methods for tapering legs, including my preferred method using a jointer. (Don�t think multiple cuts; cut these tapers in only two passes).
* Stringing with �old-school� techniques as well as using a router.
* How to make banding and sand-shaded inlay to be used on your project, if you choose.
* Veneering techniques with the pros and cons of each method discussed.
* Much more!

Join us for a fun-filled, informative, woodworking-packed week building the quintessential Federal period masterpiece. There is a lot to learn and many of the techniques can be adapted to your other projects.

About the instructor:

Glen Huey is an Ohio native who built his first piece of reproduction furniture - a Sheraton Bed - at age 14, with his father's help. Glen is a Senior Editor with Popular Woodworking and Woodworking magazines and has authored three furniture books including Glen D. Huey�s Illustrated Guide to Building Period Furniture. He currently builds furniture out of his shop in West Chester, Ohio as well as teaching woodworking classes and conducting seminars for woodworking groups around the country. Glen�s focus is primarily 18th & early 19th century furniture.

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Viking Tool Chest & Hand Wrought Hardware with Don Weber New!
Cost $895 includes all materials
July 12- 16 - 2 spaces available
Skill Level - All

A workshop in making a replica of an ancient Viking tool chest with hand wrought hardware. The tool chest measures approximatly 34" long by 10" tall and 10" deep.

This is a course in recreating an ancient Viking tool chest made in Gotland dated to 1100 AD. This chest, unearthed in 1936, was full of tools and implements used by a woodworker/blacksmith. The chest had a keyed lock as well as several ingenious padlocks inside�a great window on the tools of an ancient craftsman.

With simple hand tools/ hand plane, bow saw, brace, bits and adz, the student will make this chest from dimensioned lumber. Each student will forge the hinges and the rose headed clinch nails that fasten the hardware to the box. Finishes will also be covered in the course.

About the instructor:

Don Weber has been a woodworker (joiner) for over 40 years and a metalsmith for more than 20. Apprenticed in a joinery shop at 16, Weber has endeavored to keep alive the focus of traditional hand woodworking in a small shop as opposed to industrialization and mechanization. He hand forges tools and hardware for customers and himself.
Throughout the year Weber conducts workshops in furniture making, joinery and blacksmithing at his workshop in Paint Lick, Kentucky. Over the past six years he has been a featured guest on the PBS Woodwright�s Shop with Roy Underhill. Weber also writes articles for national woodworking magazines including American Woodworker, Woodworking Magazine, Popular Woodworking and many traditional methods publications. Visit Don on the Web at https://www.handcraftwoodworks.com.

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Woodworking Machinery and Hand Tool Fundamentals with Kelly Mehler July 26 - 30
Cost $875
Includes all Materials
Skill Level - all

The goal of this basics hands-on course is to help provide a solid woodworking foundation to the beginning woodwork
er. In this class you will learn essential hand tool and machine tool skills. These are the foundational skills that all woodworkers should have but often miss.

Hand tools and hand tool skills are a necessary and rewarding part of woodworking. The woodworker's basic hand tools are chisels, hand planes, scrapers and handsaws. In this class we will cover the choosing, sharpening, tuning and use of each tool. You will learn to use sharpening techniques and options for setting up a sharpening station in your shop. Once your hand tools are sharp, you will learn to use your hand tools correctly, safely and efficiently. There is plenty of time for practice and experimentation.

The jointer, planer, tablesaw, mortiser, drill press and router are the primary power tools in the woodshop. You will learn how to use each of these machine tools safely and properly and how to tune and maintain them. Important information such as choosing the right blades, adjusting guides, setting knives, and eliminating snipe are just a few of the things that you will learn during the week.

Finally, you will put all of your new skills together while building a small end table. This is an important class for any woodworker and it will provide a solid foundation on which to build.

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Hand-Cutting Dovetails with Kelly Mehler
August 7
Cost $225 - includes all materials
Skill Level - Open to all

Find out that this preeminent joint is well within your grasp! This most beautiful, useful, and long lasting joint will be our focus for this daylong hands-on class. You will learn methods that may be difficult to read about but which become very doable with hands-on instruction.

Here's what we'll do:

* Learn how to sharpen chisels.
* Layout through dovetails.
* Learn methods for hand sawing and chiseling dovetails.
* Cut and fit through dovetails.
* Demonstrations and 1-on-1 instruction.

By the end of the day, you will have a good foundation for successfully adding hand-cut dovetails to your woodworking repertoire.

This is a good preparatory class for the Blanket Chest class.

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Hand-Cut Dovetailed Blanket Chest with Kelly Mehler
August 9-14 - 4 spaces available
Cost $895
Skill Level - All levels

It is a Blanket Chest! It is a Tool Chest! It is what you want it to be as this project represents one of the most enduring pieces of heirloom furniture. These chests are often passed down in families for many generations. The best historical examples are made with hand cut dovetails since this is, without a doubt, the best joint for preserving the integrity of the chest over time. Your own hand cut dovetailed chest will become an instant heirloom of which you are be the proud creator!

In this 6 day class you will build a beautiful Blanket Chest of a dimension that suits your needs. The chest is made of solid wood panels for the case, top, and base. If time allows, an interior structure and small interior drawer can be added.

The main emphasis of the week will be case construction using hand cut through-dovetails. You don't need prior dovetail experience for taking this class, but my Dovetail Class will give you a head start and can-do confidence. You will learn the techniques needed to build this chest successfully through one-on-one instruction and demonstrations during the week. At the same time, you will acquire skills that are broadly applicable to other pieces that you may wish to make in the future.

You can expect to learn:

* Choosing, matching and milling rough lumber.
* Safe and correct machinery practices.
* How to work with and glue up matched solid panels.
* Dovetailing and more dovetailing!
* How to hinge and attach a top.
* How to make and install a solid wood bottom and base.
* Finishing touches that make a difference.

Enjoy the small class size and lots of personal attention while making a beautiful project of enduring quality.

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SidetableFelder Machinery : Building an End Table with Kelly Mehler
Cost $175 plus $120 Materials
August 20-21
Skill Level - All

If you are the owner of a Felder/Hammer machine or you are interested in learning more about European woodworking machinery, this hands-on class is for you. You will make a simple end table with all of the pieces cut from one board! The table construction incorporates the use of several different Felder machines so that you can discover the accuracy, efficiency, and safety features of these tools.

The goal of the class is for you to observe and then experiment with the capabilities of the different machines. As such, the table is the vehicle for your learning and there is no pressure to complete the project. The pace is entirely up to you and you will be supported in your learning by careful demonstration and teaching by Kelly, a long-time user of Felder machinery, followed by your hands-on practice of each technique. Important maintenance and tune-up information will be shared through demonstration and question/answer sessions.

Here are some of the things you can expect to learn:

* Rough milling and final milling on the jointer/planer and table saw.
* Re-sawing on the band saw.
* Mortising on the combination machine mortiser and stand-alone mortiser.
* Tenon making on the shaper and by dado cutting on the table saw.
* Edge treatments on the shaper.
* Tapering on the jointer.
* Gluing, clamping, fitting joints, and assembly techniques.
* Safety considerations for each tool.

You will enjoy an action-packed two days with good learning, excellent information, and a convivial atmosphere! For more information or to register for this class go to: Felder USA or call toll free at 866-792-5288

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Arts & Crafts Table with Stewart Crick
August 23-28
Cost $895 - materials are listed in the participant information link below
New!
Skill Level - intermediate

In this intermediate level course, students will build an Arts and Crafts inspired bedside table from solid wood. The table, designed by award-winning contemporary Arts and Crafts furniture designer Stu Crick, includes style elements from some of the movement's leading designers; including Greene & Greene; Frank Lloyd Wright, and Gustav Stickley. Students will learn how to build and use jigs and processes to reproduce classical Arts and Crafts style elements. From bread-board table tops to legs with the unique ray-fleck pattern of quarter-sawn white oak on all four sides; to the spindles of Frank Lloyd Wright and the alluring ebony accents of Greene and Greene, this course will give you the confidence to create your own unique Arts and Crafts furniture designs, and to build them to last for years and years.

Students will learn:

* How to build solidly constructed Arts and Crafts furniture
* How to design Arts & Crafts furniture that features style elements of the movement
* How to build a traditional dovetailed drawer
* How to construct bread-board table tops
* How to hand fit joints using traditional tools and techniques

About the instructor:

Stu has been working with wood most of his life and focusing on Arts and Crafts inspired furniture for the past 10 years. His construction techniques use a blend of modern power tools and traditional hand tools to achieve an efficient balance between art and craftsmanship. Stu�s furniture has been featured in several magazines, including American Bungalow, Cottages and Bungalows, Arts & Crafts Homes, Style1900, American Woodworker, Woodcraft, and Fine Woodworking. He has appeared on ABC's Good Morning America as a furniture consultant to Consumer reporter Elisabeth Leamy. His unique designs have placed in several juried shows including the Philadelphia Invitational Furniture Show, and Fine Furnishing�s Providence Show. Recently he was awarded the Best in Show Award for a Traditional Body of Work at the 2008 Providence Fine Furniture Show. His furniture resides in the permanent collection of the Grove Park Inn, and his design�s were recently featured in Bruce Johnson�s book Arts & Crafts Furniture of the Grove Park Inn.

Stu also serves as President of the Washington Woodworkers Guild�a local 501(c)(3) organization dedicated to enhancing and sharing woodworking knowledge. Visit Stu on the Web at https://www.stuswoodworks.com

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spice_chest21st Century Workbench with Robert Lang New!
October 11-16
Cost $975 - 4 spaces available
Materials- $1125 which includes select and better hard maple, both vises all hardware and machining
Skill Level - Intermediate

The 21st Century Workbench began as a reproduction of a Nicholson bench, a traditional English form used in the 18th and 19th centuries in Britain and the United States. After designing a Nicholson, second thoughts about its shortcomings took hold and this design began to take shape. The ability to clamp work to the front of the bench remained, and methods of holding work were borrowed from several forms of benches, notably the split top bench of David Charlesworth.

With removable, reversible tool trays in the center of the bench, the two top sections are manageable in size, and the base is designed to be knocked down in minutes, thanks to joinery found on an early illustration of a Nicholson bench. Following tradition, the original 21st Century Workbench was made of a strong, sturdy, locally available hardwood, Ash. Building the bench uses basic skills of hand and machine woodworking, and the result is a bench that will hold anything you throw at it for the rest of your life.

About the instructor:

Robert W. Lang has been a professional woodworker since the early 1970s. Bob�s early career included repairing wooden boats on Lake Erie and an apprenticeship in a large commercial cabinet shop in Cleveland. It progressed though designing, building and selling custom furniture at art shows around the country to a stint in design school and project management for large architectural millwork firms. In the late 1990s he began free-lance writing for Fine Woodworking and Woodshop News. In 2001, his first book Shop Drawings for Craftsman Furniture was published. Fine Woodworking would later name the book as �One of 27 Books Every Woodworker Should Read�. Bob has authored four other books of measured drawings of furniture and interiors of the Arts and Crafts period as well as The Complete Kitchen Cabinetmaker and Drafting and Design for Woodworkers.

In 2004, Bob joined the staff at Popular Woodworking and Woodworking magazines as senior editor and in addition to designing, building and photographing projects for the magazines also does most of the illustrations that appear in the magazines. The 21st Century Workbench is a good example of Bob�s approach to working with wood; a blend of historic forms adapted to contemporary use, suited to a blend of both hand and power tool use.

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Sidetable

Handtools Bootcamp with Christopher Schwarz
New!
October 23-24 - 3 spaces available
Cost $475 Materials included
Skill Level - All

Many power-tool woodworkers are interested in hand tools, but they are bewildered by where to begin, worried about a steep learning curve or put off by the high prices of quality hand tools. In reality, you need only a few hand tools to get started, they are fairly easy to master (with a little instruction) and you can get very high-quality tools for little money (if you know what to buy).

Christopher Schwarz, the editor of Popular Woodworking and Woodworking Magazine, has designed a weekend crash course in handwork that will give you all the basic skills you need to get started � without spending a bundle on planes, saws, chisels or sharpening equipment.

During this two-day class you'll learn to sharpen and set up your chisels and a handplane, plus you'll learn how to saw with enormous precision � the first step to becoming a world-class dovetailer. As you explore these tools, you'll build a reproduction of an 1830 Shaker wall cupboard from the Hancock community using both power and hand tools.

By the end of the weekend, you'll see how a small complement of hand tools can make you a better power-tool woodworker by reducing the amount of sanding you do, allowing you to adjust your workpieces in astonishing .001" increments and eliminating many unsafe power-tool operations (especially with small parts).

This class is ideal for beginning and intermediate power-tool woodworkers, or any beginning woodworker who wishes to explore woodworking with hand tools alone.

About the instructor:

Born in St. Louis, Mo., and raised in Northwest Arkansas, Chris began woodworking as a boy in his dad�s home shop. His father prohibited him from using the powered machinery, so he built his projects � including his first workbench � with a small set of hand tools. Chris became further enmeshed in the world of hand work when his family bought an 84-acre farm in Hackett, Ark., and began building two houses without the benefit of electricity.

After writing his first book, �Workbenches: From Design & Theory to Construction & Use� (Popular Woodworking Books), Chris and a partner established Lost Art Press LLC, a side business that publishes historical woodworking texts; their first project was to revive Joseph Moxon�s �The Art of Joinery� in 2008. He also is the author of "Handplane Essentials" and the forthcoming book "The Joiner and Cabinet Maker."

Chris remains an avid woodworker, building projects for the magazines, his family and occasionally for sale. When he�s not woodworking, he�s cooking or working on his 1969 Volkswagen Karmann Ghia. He lives in Fort Mitchell, Ky., with his wife, Lucy, who is also a journalist, and his two children, Maddy and Katy.

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Contact Kelly Mehler P.O. Box 786, Berea, KY 40403 phone (859) 986-5540 fax (859) 986-1233
email: kelly@kellymehler.com

� 2009 designed by Flying High Design.

# ? Oct 3, 2009 19:30

Archives: Nov 23, 2008

So that's how they made moldings back in the day... Still, at 2.5k for a set of planes, I think I'll stick with the router. At least for a while.

# ? Oct 4, 2009 06:07

Archives: Nov 23, 2008

Page 2, for shame...Well, to keep this thread alive, here are the newest tools I've bought:

Not pictured : Norton whetstones, one 220/1000 and one 4000/8000. Now here's a question about lapping stones:

What I had planned to do is use the scary sharp method to lap them. I've seen granite slabs on sale. Now what I don't know is, what grit of sandpaper do I need to use to lap the stones, do I need to use higher grits for the finer stones? If I used for example, 80 grit on all the stones wont it make the surface of the 4000/8000 stone too rough?

# ? Oct 9, 2009 21:50

PMan_: Dec 23, 2002

Tell me about finishing cherry. My first time working with it, I got some to make a few picture frames out of. I've read a bunch of different things about finishing it, from setting it out in the sun and using minimal products, to using a whole slew of different things from oil to shellac.

Is there an accepted "best method"?

# ? Oct 18, 2009 23:34

wormil: Sep 12, 2002; Hulk will smoke you!

PMan_ posted:

Tell me about finishing cherry. My first time working with it, I got some to make a few picture frames out of. I've read a bunch of different things about finishing it, from setting it out in the sun and using minimal products, to using a whole slew of different things from oil to shellac.

Is there an accepted "best method"?

My only comment is that stain will splotch so dye is a better choice, or just leave it a natural color if you have all heartwood.

# ? Oct 19, 2009 05:23

ChaoticSeven: Aug 11, 2005

You can set it out in the sun, after the first 48 hours the darkening process drops off considerably so you may as well finish it past that and let time do it's thing. A high powered tanning bed can speed this up but don't tell anyone my secret or I...Well actually I don't care so tell anyone you meet about tanning your big cherry.

I'm working on a new OP so if theres anything in particular or certain websites and resources you'd like to see mentioned (such as specific books, important folk in woodworking, people whos work inspires you or you find fascinating) start thinking of those now and I'll try to work in what I can.

Whats the character limit on a post, or is there one?

# ? Oct 19, 2009 06:21

Barn Owl: Oct 29, 2005; "text"

Woodworking Man-Crushes:

Roy Underhill
Norm

# ? Oct 19, 2009 13:39

LordOfThePants: Sep 25, 2002

Does anyone have a Porter-Cable dovetail jig? How do you like it? I'm not really sure how much I'd use one and was considering the Rockler jig since they have it on sale today for $110. The Porter-Cable jig is only $40 more and it has standard half inch shank bits (not the 8mm bits the Rockler jig uses) and aluminum templates (the Rockler jig has phenolic templates).

# ? Oct 19, 2009 22:46

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# ? May 15, 2024 11:22

optikalus: Apr 17, 2008

I went back and forth between various jigs for a while, and determined that I really didn't need to do custom-width dovetails and that being fixed doesn't affect me at all. I got some $30 or $40 harbor freight jig thing instead, and it created perfect joints the first time I used it. Pretty complex set up, though

# ? Oct 20, 2009 05:33

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Hobbies, Crafts, & Houses > Woodworking: Thank you for showing me the weird saw

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