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LordOfThePants posted:I had the dealership replace the accessory belts when they were doing my timing belt service on Monday and ever since then, I get a high pitched squeal for ~5 seconds after I start the car when it's cold (it doesn't squeal when I restart the car on my way back to work after lunch). Maybe, but be careful - it might be too tight and it could be the bearings crying. Give it a feel and see if it feels slack - if so tightening it a titch might not be a bad idea. Since it goes away quickly my guess is it's loose, but no guarantees.
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Sep 17, 2009 04:08
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Got it figured out..I had an epiphany and suddenly realized what the actual pinch weld was. Wheels now on...stalled the car as soon as I tried to drive on them, but I assume that's cause I'll need to get used to the slightly different acceleration characteristics of a larger diameter wheel.
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Sep 17, 2009 05:13
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Slow is Fast posted:What year is the car? Head gasket is the big one on RS's, the rest is just scheduled maintenance unless you break something. Its a 2000. How much was the head gasket job? If it's not too bad, I might just take it in and have it done pre-emptively if it hasn't been done already.
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Sep 17, 2009 16:12
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StarcraftM posted:Its a 2000. How much was the head gasket job? If it's not too bad, I might just take it in and have it done pre-emptively if it hasn't been done already. $1000 to $1400 ballpark. I had mine done at a dealership and they did the timing belt and other poo poo while they were in there. Good news is that's the only major issue with these cars. Everything else is solid. Info from the OP: OP posted:The subarus that have had problems with them are the N/A 2.5l cars. Have an EJ22? Don't worry it's bulletproof. The first EJ25s were especially bad, so if you're looking at a 96-99 2.5 impreza or legacy make sure they have been changed. Subaru has finally made a new gasket for the cars that will be trouble free (a thicker sti gasket), but for some reason they kept putting the crappy ones in for quite some time. The new gasket hasn't been out for more than a few years and the part number is 11044AA610 (phase 1) or 11044AA642 (phase 2). The big difference between the two phases is that phase 2 uses SOHC heads which have a bigger volume so the headgaskets are thinner. If your n/a 2.5 does not have those gaskets, chances are they'll leak at some point.
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Sep 17, 2009 17:59
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Cool, thanks for the tip! Looks like it only affected models till the 99 model year, sweet! I'll have it checked when I go to get the car inspected pre-buy, but that makes me feel a lot better.
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Sep 17, 2009 18:59
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StarcraftM posted:Cool, thanks for the tip! Looks like it only affected models till the 99 model year, sweet! I'll have it checked when I go to get the car inspected pre-buy, but that makes me feel a lot better. 99-03 had the externally leaking gaskets. Definitely not as big of a deal (my Impreza leaves a little spot of coolant on the driveway sometimes) but its definitely something to keep an eye on.
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Sep 17, 2009 19:43
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8ender posted:99-03 had the externally leaking gaskets. Definitely not as big of a deal (my Impreza leaves a little spot of coolant on the driveway sometimes) but its definitely something to keep an eye on. Yeah, just because the OP mentions the earlier ones, doesn't mean 99 to 03 was fixed. My 02 had the external issues. My advice would be to assume the head gaskets are going to blow eventually and budget accordingly.
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Sep 17, 2009 21:15
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Man I just drove my new to me 04 beaner outback today. The h6 is AWESOME and the interior is so posh and comfy. I have no idea why anyone would want the 4cyl on an outback other than super stingy about gas fuel economy....but even then it's only a 1 or 2 mpg difference. oh man i can't wait to road trip this thanggg
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Sep 20, 2009 20:14
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Slow is Fast posted:Yeah, just because the OP mentions the earlier ones, doesn't mean 99 to 03 was fixed. My 02 had the external issues. My advice would be to assume the head gaskets are going to blow eventually and budget accordingly. I've been trying to find info on this, but it seems as this is a job left for professionals. I'd need to pull the engine from the bay to fix it myself at home, correct?
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Sep 21, 2009 02:07
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Just Another XY posted:I've been trying to find info on this, but it seems as this is a job left for professionals. I'd need to pull the engine from the bay to fix it myself at home, correct? Pull the engine and separate the heads from the block. Here is the rs25 forum link to their head gasket thread. And here is the link to Jamal's project thread where he did his head gaskets. Not sure if you need archives for it. I had the dealership do mine because I don't know what I'm doing.
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Sep 21, 2009 04:48
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yeah my thread is in the archives. I also posted that on legacycentral though: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=36617
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Sep 21, 2009 06:36
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MMD3 posted:what oil are you guys using in your WRX's? I haven't changed my own oil on the Saabaru yet but I think it's about time I started after the local quick-stop place charged me $65 for Pennzoil 5w30. I recently moved to Valvoline's synthetic oil, after using Mobil 1.
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Sep 21, 2009 12:09
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I was doing some research on Subaru's AWD system and it looks like they use two different systems (3 if you include the STI) depending on what transmission you get. My understanding is that with a manual you have a mechanically linked full-time AWD but with the automatic it's a viscous coupling and is FWD until it "needs" to send power to the rear wheels. Can anybody clarify this please?
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Sep 21, 2009 13:52
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The manual is a viscous coupling. Its 50/50 I believe but changes depending. It is not electronically controlled except on the newer models I believe. The bog standard 4EAT MPT automatics have an electronically controlled clutch in the tail of the transmission that controls the distribution front/rear depending on a whole host of variables like throttle, braking, wheel spin, etc. The torque split can go to a max of 50/50 front/rear. Generally with the 4EAT the torque split will be 50/50 in most situations and settle into 90/10 for fuel economy when cruising. There are a host of other things it does like bang into third when the ABS kicks in and send the torque to the front wheels. The VTD and newer Subaru automatics behave a bit differently (the VTD can do 45/55 front/rear I believe) but for the most part the automatics behave the same. 8ender fucked around with this message at 14:22 on Sep 21, 2009 |
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Sep 21, 2009 14:20
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Question I've been meaning to ask: Diffs on the standard (non WRX/STI) models: Open or limited slip? Assuming they're open, how do they control which wheel gets power? Brakes?
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Sep 21, 2009 14:25
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slidebite posted:Question I've been meaning to ask: Open and yes, they use traction control. The older ones (like my 02' TS) have no traction control.
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Sep 21, 2009 14:41
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slidebite posted:Question I've been meaning to ask: 93-99, all manuals had a VC center diff, and open front and rear 00-01, RS models have VC rear diff, pretty sure all others are the same as 93-99 02-09, non WRX/STi manuals are the same as 93-99 IIRC, not as sure though. As far as automatics, what's been said is accurate to the best of my knowledge. There were never any mechanical diffs, center or rear, in any non-STi U.S. model. I don't think there have ever been mechanical center diffs on a subaru. In my car, I get a fair amount of traction on loose surfaces. The only wheel not turning might be one of the fronts occasionally. However, most of the time, it's all 4 spinning. This is with open front, VC center, and VC rear. The only time I've ever been stuck has been when the snow was deep enough to hang up my frame. dayman fucked around with this message at 15:17 on Sep 21, 2009 |
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Sep 21, 2009 15:13
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I'm probably gonna hold off until after the winter before I upgrade my turbo, but I'd like to do my homework now. For my Legacy GT, I'd like to retain the top mounted intercooler (I already have a Perrin there anyhow). I want to upgrade my turbo, but am torn between two potential choices : The VF-52 and the AVO380 (I've ruled out anything like a TD06-20G or 18G just due to the awful lag they seem to have from the dyno plots I've seen.) Of course, to upgrade these I'd be doing the other supporting modifications - injectors and fuel pump. I already have a catless uppipe, and turboback exhaust. There's a ton of information on the VF-52, since they're pretty cheap, and are essentially just a VF39 in a Legacy housing. They make lots of torque down low, but fall flat on their face after about 4800 RPM. The AVO380 I'm having more trouble finding much info on. It appears to spool up pretty quickly, and retain power in the top end better than the VF-52. It also appears to have a lot more potential if one goes with a FMIC, which I'm currently unwilling to do. I'm a big proponent of doing things right the first time...if the AVO380 has a significant spool advantage over the VF-52, I don't mind paying almost twice as much as a VF-52 ; anyone got any experience?
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Sep 21, 2009 19:00
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Here's how an AWD 5-speed works: From the motor, power goes through the clutch to the the main shaft, which has all the drive gears. The drive gears are meshed with the driven gears, which are on the driven shaft, which is hollow. Here is the transmission:  The main shaft, which is connected to the clutch, is blue. The driven shaft is yellow and the front diff is green. Here is the driven shaft:  The part highlighted in red is the drive pinion. It is inside the driven shaft. Here is an exploded view:  Once again the red part is the drive pinion. The little part highlighted in yellow is where the driven shaft connects to the center differential. All those other things are the driven gears, dogs, collars, and syncros, etc. Here is the center differential:  The red is where the drive pinion connect to the differential. The yellow is where the driven shaft connects to the center differential. The viscous coupling is purple. If there is a speed difference it starts to lock up. The red part labeled "10" connects to the rear transfer drive gear. Here is the transfer case:  Yellow, once again, is where the driven shaft connects. Blue are the transfer gears to send power to the rear. Red is where the transfer driven shaft connects to the center differential (item 10 in the previous picture). How does this all work? Power goes from the clutch to the main shaft, through the selected gear to the driven shaft which turns the center diff. From there it is split to the front diff and through the transfer gear to the rear diff. When there is a speed difference between the front and rear, the viscous coupling heats up and tries to speed up the slower moving end. Now, the viscous coupling is not supposed to be able to transfer all of the power to one end. The stock unit is rated at 4 kg-m/100rpm. What that means is that for a 100 rpm speed difference in the coupling, it will provide 4 kg-m, or about 28 lb-ft, of resistance. However, this relationship is not linear (one of the downsides to a vc), and there is a limit to how much power can actually be transferred. 200 rpm difference does not mean 56 lb-ft is transferred. How much the vc can actually lock up, I'm not sure. What I can say is that it is much less than the full power of a car. Subaru does, however, make stronger center viscous couplings, in 10, 12, and 20 kg-m/100rpm varieties. Everything I have heard about the 20 is that you should not use it driving around on the street, and that it will bind up and cause hopping etc as if the 4wd was engaged in a truck. Seems to be good in rally cars, though. here is a picture of a 5-speed apart:  I'll explain 6-speeds and vtd and stuff later. jamal fucked around with this message at 21:21 on Sep 21, 2009 |
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Sep 21, 2009 20:26
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Good post!
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Sep 21, 2009 21:11
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Very nice jamal. I've always been interested in the magic of the viscous coupling but have never been interested enough to research it as I own a 4EAT Subaru. Speaking of which, does anyone know where I can get my hands on a Transmission Computer from an 03 Non Turbo Impreza?
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Sep 21, 2009 21:13
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Forget other forums. When I have questions, I'm just going to annoy jamal or cat terrist.
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Sep 21, 2009 22:01
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jamal posted:Here's how an AWD 5-speed works: Whoa. Awesome post. Does anyone have the factory sat radio installed in their Impreza? I'm about to buy that 2007 WRX Limited wagon I posted before, but I'm going to try to squeeze him to throw in a few accessories and I think the Sirius kit may be one of them. How's the implementation? Is it a pain in the rear end to navigate? I'd like to have nav, bluetooth, sat radio, and ipod control / aux control in the car, but I'm moving to San Francisco as soon as my house sells and I'm worried about throwing an X710BT or some other non-detachable face in there. I think my options are going with the factory sat radio and aux in for music + a Garmin or something for nav and BT, or the Pioneer U310BT which does have all the stuff I want plus a detachable face, but supposedly it's a bit half-baked software wise and crashy. Any thoughts?
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Sep 22, 2009 18:23
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My WRX is throwing a CEL, P1086. Apparently this is the left hand tumble generator valve and there are umpteen million references to it on various forums along with just as many 'fixes'. Thought I'd throw it out here and maybe get a definitive answer as to what to do next, and if it's something I should be concerned with driving on until I get it fixed.
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Sep 22, 2009 20:15
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Can someone explain to me, just for my own curiosity, exactly how the ECU in modern Subarus does it's thing? My 2.5i is my first even remotely recent car and my lay understanding is that the ECU will over time adapt to my driving. Is this a continuous process or something that happens every so many miles/months?
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Sep 24, 2009 01:36
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Oh god. This thing makes me want to fight people. It is the baddest.
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Sep 24, 2009 15:50
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So the other day I decided to do some redneck bodywork on my DD 93 L Here's what she looked like when I bought her:    Something had to be done about the front, despite the fact that it passes inspection. Since I spent $400 on the car itself, all the work needed on the car had to be done on the cheap. That means it was time to take a trip down to the redneck body shop. I snagged the grille off RS25, from a version1 STi (actually around the same price as stock L grilles), and I managed to snag an L hood from newenglandsubarus.com for $29. The rest was all me, my friends, a tow rope, a hammer(hatchet), and a large maple. (the top 6 photos are courtesy of my good friend Lev) After removing the headlights.  Examining the core support.  Banging out a sheared bolt for the radiator bracket.  Seeing how much clearance I have behind the support. My fingers look surprisingly clean.  After I had the clearance I needed, we "hitched 'er up". Also note the RS hood that I mounted for checking the hood clearance and latching.   All the hard work paid off. The grill is still about an inch indented, but it latches perfectly. If I feel ambitious, I might pull it again to see if I can get it closer.  
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Sep 25, 2009 13:53
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Looks like my car is taking to pretending it has a supercharger. I'm getting a very distinct whine that goes with engine RPMs that sounds exactly like a supercharger whine. I'm hoping it's just the AC idler pulley since the AC is broken right now anyways and I can just take off the belt until I get around to fixing it. I'll probably take the belt off tonight and see if the noise goes away. I just hope it's not something related to the timing belt. I'm still about 13k miles away from needing to replace it and I was hoping to wait until the spring or early summer. From what I hear subarus rarely need to have their timing belt replaced before the maintenance interval, so hopefully it's just the AC idler pulley.
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Sep 28, 2009 20:53
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Spotted while cruising back from Dayton.  God I miss my Outback.
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Sep 28, 2009 21:12
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That is awesome! I wonder if it's a subaru motor that is powering the plane too?
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Sep 28, 2009 22:25
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Boomerjinks posted:Spotted while cruising back from Dayton. I would have been more impressive if the plane was towing the subaru. 
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Sep 28, 2009 23:41
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AC idler pulley confirmed, that makes me feel a lot better. I just took off the belt for now and the noise is completely gone. However, as most things go, there were issues. I go to undo the slider bolt that holds the alternator up. Now, I had just replaced the belts on the car about 3 months ago. SNAP, the slider bolt broke off at the head. Now, when I was putting the belt on before, it seemed like i had to REALLY take up a lot of slack with the belt, so much so that the alternator was much higher than it was originally. Well, I go back to autozone where I got the belt to see if they had a replacement bolt. Nope. I brought the belt with me to explain my problem. I figure I over torqued the bolt trying to get the belt tight when I replaced it. I wanted to confirm that they gave me the right part. They looked it up and sure enough it was the same one the computer said. They then looked up a 2003 WRX, it gave a different part number for the alternator/ps belt that was about a half inch smaller. Riddle me this, why in the hell would the 2003 model have a smaller belt size than a 2002? Fortunately, they exchanged the belt for me right there without any fuss. They didn't, however, have a bolt (i'm sure there was probably one in the store that would have worked, but they were useless.) So, I went down the road to home depot and bought a 70mm long 8mm bolt with 1.25 threads and it seems to work. It's not as long as the stock bolt so you have to completely undo it if you want the alternator to drop far enough to get the belt on, but it works in a pinch. I was sweating the fact that my daily driver was down at 8:25pm at the beginning of the week. I'm happy now knowing that the whine isn't something more serious and I can deal with it on my own terms.
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Sep 29, 2009 03:26
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My AC idler went out the same way. I was horrified that I had killed the differential or something and had to endure a long ride home listening to the whine and imagining something chewing itself to death below me.
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Sep 29, 2009 04:12
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I was just worried that one of the timing belt tensioner was going or something. I'm going to have to make an almost 600 mile round trip in a little less than two weeks so I was scared to death of something dying in the middle of bumfuck PA. If it was my alternator or PS pump, I wouldn't be too nervous driving back and forth from work, but I'm sure as hell not going to go on a 5 hour drive with that unknown and I really don't have time to deal with something before I leave.
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Sep 29, 2009 04:53
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Can someone with greater search fu than me figure out what the part number is for the belt adjusting bolt that attaches to the alternator mounting bracket. This is the bolt you tighten to move the alternator up and down to adjust the belt tension. For the life of me I can't find it.
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Sep 29, 2009 07:07
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dayman posted:Banging out a sheared bolt for the radiator bracket. Option 1: You miss your tiny "punch" (screw driver with plastic handle the size of a pencil) and smack your hand with your "hammer" (back end of the hatchet) Option 2:You shatter the plastic handle and get the joy of trying to remove shards of plastic from your eyes (sweet safety glasses while using the proper tools). 
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Sep 29, 2009 08:38
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bull3964 posted:Can someone with greater search fu than me figure out what the part number is for the belt adjusting bolt that attaches to the alternator mounting bracket. This is the bolt you tighten to move the alternator up and down to adjust the belt tension. For the life of me I can't find it. https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/ This might help you out some.
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Sep 29, 2009 10:13
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bull3964 posted:Can someone with greater search fu than me figure out what the part number is for the belt adjusting bolt that attaches to the alternator mounting bracket. This is the bolt you tighten to move the alternator up and down to adjust the belt tension. For the life of me I can't find it. Is this what you're looking for? http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/us_g11/type_17/climate/compressor/ Number 8 in the diagram. If you cant find it here try phoning up your local fastener supply and see if they can get you a longer bolt.
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Sep 29, 2009 12:04
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Does anyone know where I can get a SpecC roof + roof vent from???? I need a load of OEM parts and not reproductions for the assrape that is Group N.
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Sep 29, 2009 12:26
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8ender posted:Is this what you're looking for? Nope, that's the one for the AC idler pully, I need the one off the alternator. I also tried subarugenuineparts.com, but I just can't seem to find the right section. I mean, what I have in there now is perfectly fine, but I wouldn't mind putting the right part in there. I suppose I could go to the dealer and have them look it up. I was on https://www.subaruparts.com and was pouring through the parts lookup diagram. On the alternator page, they refer to the bracket and it says "FIG.346" but I was unable to find FIG.346 on any of the parts pages. It's really just an 8mm bolt with 1.25 thread pitch that's longer than 70mm (which is the length I found at home depot.) I was just getting ready to order the new ac idler pulley and thought "oh, I could order that part too." As a side note, here's exactly what my car sounded like and what the pulley sounds like when you spin it by hand. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IXej4PmypzA http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ts3W0S31CJE Sounds just like a pair of roller skates.
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Sep 29, 2009 13:32
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