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I have a softside waterbed frame with what appears to be a regular waterbed mattress in it. There is about a 3/16" split on one of the corner seams. The hole is marked and the bed is drained and dry. From what I have found online, seam repairs are just temporary fixes. I'm wondering if "temporary" means "a few hours" or more like "a few months". I will be ordering a new mattress in the morning, but am wondering if I patch the current one, could I expect it to hold up for a week or two until the new one arrives?
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Sep 18, 2009 07:45
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| # ? May 11, 2024 22:03 |
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I'm sure there's a simple solution to this problem, but in the process of trying to muscle through it, I'm destroying the finish on my door. I need to install a new deadbolt & lock on the entry door in my condo. No problem, other than the pre-drilled hole in the door is ~1.5" and I bought a standard 2 1/8 lockset, the receipt for which is long gone. Attempting to drill a larger diameter hole with the correct size arbor has been completely worthless, other than prompting me to think that my initial thought of replacing the door might be the best one. Every time I drill, whether I'm using a plug-in drill or my DeWalt screwdriver, the arbor goes walking and rips the finish all to hell. Additionally, it doesn't actually drill into the surface. Suggestions?
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Sep 19, 2009 00:37
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STFU Pumpkinhead posted:I'm sure there's a simple solution to this problem, but in the process of trying to muscle through it, I'm destroying the finish on my door. Clamp a scrap piece of 1x4 over the hole. From the back side, trace the outline of the existing hole. Remove the piece, mark the center of the circle you drew and drill a small (1/8") pilot hole through. Clamp the piece to the door again, making sure you line up the circle you drew with the existing hole. Make sure it's clamped really, really well. Now take the proper sized hole saw, put the pilot bit in the hole you drilled in the piece, and start drilling. The scrap piece will act like a guide, keeping the hole saw on target.
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Sep 19, 2009 01:50
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STFU Pumpkinhead posted:I'm sure there's a simple solution to this problem, but in the process of trying to muscle through it, I'm destroying the finish on my door. Do you have a hole saw that is the same size as the current smaller hole? If so, check this out: American Tool posted:Next time you have to enlarge an existing hole - to replace an old lockset with a bigger one, for instance - try this trick:
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Sep 19, 2009 04:54
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Richard Noggin posted:Clamp a scrap piece of 1x4 over the hole. From the back side, trace the outline of the existing hole. Remove the piece, mark the center of the circle you drew and drill a small (1/8") pilot hole through. Clamp the piece to the door again, making sure you line up the circle you drew with the existing hole. Make sure it's clamped really, really well. Now take the proper sized hole saw, put the pilot bit in the hole you drilled in the piece, and start drilling. The scrap piece will act like a guide, keeping the hole saw on target. Great tip, I'll try this. SkunkDuster posted:Do you have a hole saw that is the same size as the current smaller hole? If so, check this out: Wow, this is exactly what I meant. Such a simple solution, but would work perfectly. Unfortunately I don't have a hole saw that's the same size, but this is an option if I can't get ^^ to work. Thanks!
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Sep 19, 2009 15:41
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I'm stumped on trying to figure out if I can do a bit of remodeling in my attic/crawl space. Basically, I don't know if it's safe to remove these 2x4 supports (which I'm not sure support anything), and if I would need to do something to ensure proper support still exists. If you were to look into the space from the side, it looks approximately like the picture I'll attach below. The grey represents the wall, left of that is my bedroom. The brown represents 2x6 supports, which span the width, from bedroom wall to the edge of the roof. The yellow are 2x4's. About every 4 feet, a 2x4 goes up from the 2x6 on the floor to the roof. At about 4 feet high, there's a 2x4 that goes from bedroom wall to the roof (horizontal). There are 2x4's going at 45 degrees from where the horizontal and vertical 2x4's meet. The first of these 2x4 support "things" is about 10 inches from the hallway wall (see the top-down view). They're on top of every 2x6 following that, which is every 32 inches. There are 4 of these things (so the depth, as you look at the side view pic, is 10 feet or so). What I want to do: Make a small closet that will serve as a place to store a couple of desktop machines (acting as servers) and be the hub for my wired network. Questions: 1. Any suggestions on a very good resource online for this? I would like to read up on this rather than consult a contractor (I would really like to do the project myself, without additional contracting costs, but am admittedly uneducated about the whole contractor process -- so I may need education there. Or a smack, I suppose). 2. Does it seem feasible that I can remove the entire 2x4 set that is closest to that hallway wall (marked with green line on the top down view)? Could/Should I brace it across (the 2x6 on the roof?) 3. Same deal - the green 45 degree piece in the side view: I'd love to remove one or two of these just to make storing larger objects in the attic easier.
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Sep 20, 2009 03:49
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STFU Pumpkinhead posted:Great tip, I'll try this. If you have a saw, you could also just cut a square of scrapwood that is slightly larger than the existing hole. Then pound it in there (square peg in a round slot) and use that as the centerpoint.
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Sep 20, 2009 05:38
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Rusty Krustyman posted:I'm stumped on trying to figure out if I can do a bit of remodeling in my attic/crawl space. Basically, I don't know if it's safe to remove these 2x4 supports (which I'm not sure support anything), and if I would need to do something to ensure proper support still exists. Attics get quite hot during the summertime and can crash or hasten the demise of any computer you'd stick in there.
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Sep 20, 2009 17:03
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I need to get the handle of my shower off. It was actually installed about a month ago, and I remember that I was particular about not over-tightening as several of the components are actually plastic. Well, something is wrong, and I need to get in, and the screw at the center is seized. It's a phillips head, and has no rightful reason to have frozen up. I've put as much force onto the screw as I dare and no luck. On top of that, the screw has already started to lose it's shape. The area surrounding the screw is plastic, so I can't heat it up. Penetrating oil seems like it will not do the trick, as there isn't likely to be any rust or corrosion inside (hasn't been long enough). The screw is relatively small, so if it comes down to drilling it out, it's going to be a pain in the rear end and probably damage everything else. Please, give me some ideas.
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Sep 21, 2009 04:33
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Local Yokel posted:Please, give me some ideas. Put your screwdriver in there, put just less than too much torque on the screw, and tap the end of the screwdriver with a hammer. Keep the torque on, and increase the "taps" until they're fairly solid hits and you're about to do significant damage to the screw.
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Sep 21, 2009 06:37
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Put your screwdriver in there, put just less than too much torque on the screw, and tap the end of the screwdriver with a hammer. Keep the torque on, and increase the "taps" until they're fairly solid hits and you're about to do significant damage to the screw. I'll try it when I get home today. I've got a small hammer driver - will that kill it faster, or is it worth a try?
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Sep 21, 2009 14:11
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Local Yokel posted:I'll try it when I get home today. That will kill it so fast you'll never get a chance to stop.
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Sep 21, 2009 16:29
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kid sinister posted:Attics get quite hot during the summertime and can crash or hasten the demise of any computer you'd stick in there. Yes - I'm plan on framing and insulating before I hung any drywall in there - ideally the access door can be swapped for a regular closet door. If I can't keep it temperature controlled, I won't do the door swap nor use it for hosting these machines.
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Sep 21, 2009 22:17
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Rusty Krustyman posted:Yes - I'm plan on framing and insulating before I hung any drywall in there - ideally the access door can be swapped for a regular closet door. If I can't keep it temperature controlled, I won't do the door swap nor use it for hosting these machines. That's not enough. You'll need to either leave that area open, install a fan, or pipe AC to that space.
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Sep 21, 2009 22:48
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kid sinister posted:That's not enough. You'll need to either leave that area open, install a fan, or pipe AC to that space. Enclosed area with machines producing heat = warm closet with insulation (is what I think you're saying here) -- so would a fan, similar to one installed in a bathroom, for example, do the trick? I assume I'd have to come up with some method of making sure that thing would turn on when it got too hot in that room. If the fan was off, would it allow too much heat/cold back into that area from the attic? (my attic is very good at building heat during the summer with temps + sun, and very good at being cold in the winter). I don't have AC in the house - usually don't need it during the summer (I live in the NW)
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Sep 23, 2009 00:59
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Is there any exterminator that excels in wasps over others? Or should I just call Orkin/Terminix and a few local companies? I somehow have wasps in my house (a wiki search makes it look like a yellow jacket, sand wasp or something not fuzzy and armored looking), I know roughly where the nest may be, but I can't figure out where they are coming into the house from. I'm averaging about 3-4 wasps in my kitchen, I've checked all the screens in the house, gone as far as to tape/plastic up every exhaust fan in my house, torn off molding/trim and foamed the crap out of the resulting gaps, and I've stopped using the door near the suspected nest. For some reason they seem to love my kitchen window.
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Sep 23, 2009 07:06
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I've recently brought a new washing machine, and whenever it reaches its spin cycle it starts to vibrate so much the entire kitchen feels like it is shaking. I've made sure the feet are all touching the floor, and made sure it's even, but it looks like the drum is spinning off centre when I run it. Is there a simple way I could fix this without having to wait the company I brought it from to deal with it?
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Sep 23, 2009 13:04
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Rusty Krustyman posted:Enclosed area with machines producing heat = warm closet with insulation (is what I think you're saying here) -- so would a fan, similar to one installed in a bathroom, for example, do the trick? I assume I'd have to come up with some method of making sure that thing would turn on when it got too hot in that room. If the fan was off, would it allow too much heat/cold back into that area from the attic? (my attic is very good at building heat during the summer with temps + sun, and very good at being cold in the winter). I don't have AC in the house - usually don't need it during the summer (I live in the NW) That's exactly what I'm saying. You could try a bathroom exhaust fan, but many aren't rated for continuous use. Eventually that fan will become squeaky and noisy. You might be able to rig up some temperature controlled switch for it, but I don't know where you could find one... Do you have a basement? That would be a much better environment for computers to run constantly. You know, you might also want to ask SH/SC, something tells me someone there has this exact same situation in their house and can offer insight. Brown Moses posted:I've recently brought a new washing machine, and whenever it reaches its spin cycle it starts to vibrate so much the entire kitchen feels like it is shaking. I've made sure the feet are all touching the floor, and made sure it's even, but it looks like the drum is spinning off centre when I run it. Is there a simple way I could fix this without having to wait the company I brought it from to deal with it? When you say "even", does that mean that it's perfectly level? That would be the first thing to try.
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Sep 23, 2009 14:15
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It appears level, I think I'll pick up a spirit level tonight and make 100% sure.
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Sep 23, 2009 14:20
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I've checked it with a spirit level and it's a bit uneven, but now when I adjust the front legs the one of the back legs is off the ground. Does it have to be perfectly level, or can it be a few millimetres out on one side? It looks like I'll have to pull the whole thing out and put something under one of the back legs if it needs to be perfectly level.
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Sep 23, 2009 18:30
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Brown Moses posted:I've checked it with a spirit level and it's a bit uneven, but now when I adjust the front legs the one of the back legs is off the ground. Does it have to be perfectly level, or can it be a few millimetres out on one side? It looks like I'll have to pull the whole thing out and put something under one of the back legs if it needs to be perfectly level. Yes, perfectly level. All 4 legs should be adjustable, you shouldn't need to put anything under some legs and not others. After leveling it, you should also check up again in a month or so to see if it has shifted. Just to clarify, you are checking for level on both front/back left/right axis?
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Sep 23, 2009 18:48
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Yeah, it's pretty awkward getting it in and out, I'm worried about tearing the vinyl floor. I'll keep adjusting it I guess.
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Sep 23, 2009 19:48
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Brown Moses posted:I've checked it with a spirit level and it's a bit uneven, but now when I adjust the front legs the one of the back legs is off the ground. Does it have to be perfectly level, or can it be a few millimetres out on one side? It looks like I'll have to pull the whole thing out and put something under one of the back legs if it needs to be perfectly level. Double-check the back legs before you try to adjust them. A lot of washers have self-adjusting back legs. Tip the machine forward onto its front legs, lifting the back legs 4-6 inches off the ground, and when you set it back down, they should adjust automatically to level. If they're stuck, give them a couple light taps with a hammer and they should pop out. Once the back legs are adjusted, twist the front legs up or down to get it perfectly plumb and level, then tighten the lock nuts so the legs don't go out of level again.
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Sep 23, 2009 20:14
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Would two trolling motors increase the top speed of a craft or just make it accelerate faster?
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Sep 23, 2009 21:29
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kid sinister posted:That's exactly what I'm saying. You could try a bathroom exhaust fan, but many aren't rated for continuous use. Eventually that fan will become squeaky and noisy. You might be able to rig up some temperature controlled switch for it, but I don't know where you could find one... No basement, unfortunately, or I would've done that long ago.  SH/SC would probably have an idea over temperature control, though.... Could I use a thermostat that I'd normally use for my heating to do this? Basically something to control power to an outlet.
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Sep 24, 2009 01:07
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Brown Moses posted:Yeah, it's pretty awkward getting it in and out, I'm worried about tearing the vinyl floor. I'll keep adjusting it I guess. Are the legs plastic and the short legs look like they can be screwed in further, but are stopped by little plastic nubs in the threads? If so, you can remove those nubs gently with a hacksaw so you can then screw in the short legs further... ease posted:Would two trolling motors increase the top speed of a craft or just make it accelerate faster? Depends on your hull shape and which direction either motor is pointed in.
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Sep 24, 2009 04:13
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kid sinister posted:Depends on your hull shape and which direction either motor is pointed in.
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Sep 24, 2009 04:24
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ease posted:Kayak, both pointed in the same direction.
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Sep 24, 2009 06:33
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I'll move my washing machine to the middle of the kitchen, make sure it's perfectly level, and turn it on then. At least then I'll know if its the balance that's the problem.
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Sep 24, 2009 09:31
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I recently bought a new construction bi-level and am finishing the lower floor on my own. I have 2 rooms that have half-walls of concrete on the bottom with the wood walls above. The other side of this concrete is the front porch and a bit of decorative dirt and landscaping, so it above water level. I also know they tar-coated the outside when building. I'm about to build a stud wall in front of them, but am not sure if I need to plastic coat the concrete or just put the insulation right up against it.. I don't think water will be an issue since its not an actual basement. What do you think?
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Sep 24, 2009 16:59
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FidgetyRat posted:I don't think water will be an issue since its not an actual basement. If it's at least partially below ground, then it's an actual basement. There are all kinds of building codes for finishing out basements, mostly for keeping out and compensating for water. If it's new construction, then you shouldn't have any leaks... yet. Don't worry, they'll come, they almost always do. In other words, do some more research about framing out basement walls. You'll have to put up some waterproofing first, then use treated lumber for the bottom plates and you'll have to prop up all the walls a bit off the concrete floor using plastic spacers. If your concrete walls come in quite a bit from the exterior walls on top of them, you may want to extend out the top section with more wood so that the final interior face will be flat.
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Sep 24, 2009 18:43
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STFU Pumpkinhead posted:I'm sure there's a simple solution to this problem, but in the process of trying to muscle through it, I'm destroying the finish on my door. Buy/borrow/rent a drat router with a 5/8 bit. No need for hole saw fuckery or clamping wood to your door and praying it holds. It's the textbook tool for this kind of job.
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Sep 27, 2009 01:43
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Does anyone know the name of the company that makes the combination tubular skylight and exhaust fan that was featured on DIY Network's Bathtastic a few weeks back? It had an oval-shaped trim in the bathroom that housed the light and vent. Or, does anyone know of a company that makes a combo skylight/vent that has an optional light kit for evening light, and can dim the natural light when necessary?
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Sep 27, 2009 05:07
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I've moved my washing machine to the middle of the room, made sure it was perfectly level, and it's still jumping up and down. I took the back off to look at the drum as it spins and it's bouncing around quite a bit. I can only see two shock absorbers at the base of the washing machine attached to the drum and they seem fine. Any ideas of what it could be? Someone suggested the floorboards in my kitchen might be a bit damaged from water by the previous owners, could that cause this movement?
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Sep 27, 2009 11:12
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Brown Moses posted:I've moved my washing machine to the middle of the room, made sure it was perfectly level, and it's still jumping up and down. I took the back off to look at the drum as it spins and it's bouncing around quite a bit. I can only see two shock absorbers at the base of the washing machine attached to the drum and they seem fine. Any ideas of what it could be? Someone suggested the floorboards in my kitchen might be a bit damaged from water by the previous owners, could that cause this movement? run the machine empty. If it jumps when it spins something's really hosed up with it, otherwise it's just not balancing the load correctly - how full do you load it?
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Sep 27, 2009 13:22
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It vibrates a bit when empty, nothing compared to when there's stuff in it. We've tried different sized loads and it always goes mental.
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Sep 27, 2009 13:52
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Mthrboard posted:Does anyone know the name of the company that makes the combination tubular skylight and exhaust fan that was featured on DIY Network's Bathtastic a few weeks back? It had an oval-shaped trim in the bathroom that housed the light and vent. Or, does anyone know of a company that makes a combo skylight/vent that has an optional light kit for evening light, and can dim the natural light when necessary? A little bit of googling on "solar tubes" brought me to http://www.solatube.com/, which appears to be what was on the show. Give some updates if you get one, I'm really curious how they work out.
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Sep 28, 2009 04:39
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I want to enlarge some holes in the (plastic) faceplate of my computer speakers. Can this be done without cracking/melting them?
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Sep 28, 2009 13:18
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Canary Yellow posted:I want to enlarge some holes in the (plastic) faceplate of my computer speakers. Can this be done without cracking/melting them? Sure can. Do you have a drill bit index? I'd first stick the bits in the hole by hand until you find the current size of the hole, then go up by one bit at a time until you reach the size you need. If your plastic is thin and weak enough, you might even be able to work the bits by hand, not even needing a drill.
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Sep 28, 2009 14:18
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| # ? May 11, 2024 22:03 |
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A door repair question now. One of the doors in my new home had loose hinges, so I removed the door, drilled 6mm holes into the screw holes in the door, and hammered short pieces of dowel rod into the holes, held in place by glue. This was fine for one hinge, but unfortuantly the door is actually hollow, and the other hinge has partly collapsed, meaning the dowels aren't solid, so as soon as I try to put a screw into them they become loose. Now I'm looking at what I can do to repair the hinge, I'm thinking the only way to is chisel out the broken area and glue in a new piece of wood. Can anyone think of another less drastic option?
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Sep 28, 2009 14:49
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