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SuperCaptainJ posted:Don't even think about it Cornholio. Hey I didn't mean for me. A lot of the people I work with are huge into 60s-70s American hot rods, but some of them are getting kinda bored with them.
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Sep 19, 2009 02:04
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Just did an oil change only. I'm going to wait on replacing the oil pan gasket. I don't have the know-how to get to it in the way that's required.  On the bright side, the oil filter was stupid easy to get to. At least they got THAT right.
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Sep 19, 2009 03:23
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McMadCow posted:Just did an oil change only. I'm going to wait on replacing the oil pan gasket. I don't have the know-how to get to it in the way that's required. really? I always thought that sandwiching it right loving between the mount arm and the headers was loving awkard -- but it might be different on non-325i cars that don't have an oil cooler. anyway there's only one way to gain know-how! by loving poo poo up immensely!
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Sep 19, 2009 05:40
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On the iX you get a bonus front driveshaft in the way. Another case of needing 2 elbows to get at something.
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Sep 19, 2009 17:33
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CornHolio posted:I still can't get over how beautiful these cars are. Do you have that in wallpaper size? Somebody said e24? Here's my '87 Cinoberrot 5 speed.   How much? $6,500 for the car $1,200 suspension/Alignment $300 Electrical issue $300 repair of power steering system (Still leaking) Not to mention the A/C is still r12 so it can't be recharged safely, and we've had 2 months of 95 - 105* days here. Needs 2 window motors in the back, and personally speaking I won't be happy until I've PDR'd all the door dings and gotten some decent wheels on it. Also needs window seal gaskets desperately. Parts are easy to come by, but not so much that any ol' autohaus will stock them (outside of suspension, brakes, etc.) Once you get into weird lil' bits and ends, you're not exactly gonna find them at a pull-a-part You can pick up a regular ol' high-miles (180k+) auto without the L series trim in baby poo poo gold or pale blue for about $3,000. Once you get into rarer options (trim, 5 speed, desireable original color, low miles) it goes up incredibly quick! Expect to do the cooling system right off the bat, and getting these things to breathe right is a loving bear. However, you can't go wrong with the lines. These cars just ooze sexy, and because of rarity, they're only going UP in value. So there's that. So it's a safe guess to say that whatever year/condition e24 you buy, your baseline post purchase investment is going to be around $2,000. After that, though, look the gently caress out!  I've never loved a car as much as I do the Shark!
Clockwork Sputnik fucked around with this message at 21:22 on Sep 19, 2009 |
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Sep 19, 2009 21:15
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two_beer_bishes posted:E36 M3 shock tower tear Update: It turns out that BMW make a part that completely replaces all of the metal affected, but it requires some other welded parts to be drilled out. The shop has quoted $2500 and Progressive will not cover it. Also, the shop said that the last guys that fixed this totally hosed it up and the passenger side mount is actually lower than the driver side. I'm trying to get in touch with the PO to get the other shop's info.
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Sep 19, 2009 22:36
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CornHolio posted:I still can't get over how beautiful these cars are. Do you have that in wallpaper size? It has not been an easy process. Parts are rare and expensive...basically to restore the interior in one you have to build from scratch. My uncle, a metal worker, had to make some custom parts for the coupe because some things are just impossible to find. I think I saw an original E9 door handle going for $85 on ebay...
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Sep 21, 2009 16:22
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ArsenicWheat posted:It has not been an easy process. Parts are rare and expensive...basically to restore the interior in one you have to build from scratch. My uncle, a metal worker, had to make some custom parts for the coupe because some things are just impossible to find. Poo, thats what I was afraid of.
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Sep 21, 2009 16:58
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Jorsh posted:really? I always thought that sandwiching it right loving between the mount arm and the headers was loving awkard -- but it might be different on non-325i cars that don't have an oil cooler. It is an E30 325i. I just reached under the exhaust and undid it by hand. Went in reverse to reattach it. Seemed easy as pie to me. Of course, I did it when the engine was cold, but beyond that I don't see what could be so hard about it...
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Sep 21, 2009 17:45
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McMadCow posted:It is an E30 325i. I just reached under the exhaust and undid it by hand. Went in reverse to reattach it. Seemed easy as pie to me. Of course, I did it when the engine was cold, but beyond that I don't see what could be so hard about it... Yeah, it's not really hard -- just awkward.
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Sep 21, 2009 17:58
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I just paid the down payment for my 2010 135i. Confirmed production week: week 45 (beginning of November). I think waiting is going to be the worst part
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Sep 21, 2009 21:55
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doogle posted:I just paid the down payment for my 2010 135i. Confirmed production week: week 45 (beginning of November). I think waiting is going to be the worst part Somehow, after ordering his 335i, my office mate tracked down the exact ship it was on, watched its GPS coordinates until it entered the Panama Canal, then used the webcams in the canal to watch the ship as it crossed through, then up to LA. When the truck arrived, was at the dealership watching it offloaded. He had called ahead to let them know that his car was in. Dude *loves the gently caress* out of that car.
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Sep 21, 2009 21:59
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Can anyone confirm that there is no such thing as a 2004 BMW 320 in the US? I know very little about BMW's, and a friend at work has a buddy that inherited an 04 BMW 320 and wants to get rid of it asap for the balance owed on it ($3.5k). My coworker says it is a 320, but I can only find info on a 325 as the lowest model for that year except for some European version. Deal sounds too good to be true of course, but I am intrigued and going to check it out this weekend. 42k miles, few dings on the outside, cloth interior that is all chewed up and hairy from pets. I figure if this is really only $3.5k and there are no major mechanical issues then I can have the inside completely refinished with leather seats and make out with a nice ride? Of course I will have it inspected, still can't believe the price unless I am missing something here. Anything I should look out for?
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Sep 21, 2009 23:58
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From wikipedia, " * 323 and 328 E46 Sedans introduced in the US (The 316 to 320 models were not released in the US to the general public at any point)." I've only ever seen the 323i, at least here in canada, but that seems to have been replaced by the 325 before 04. I finally got all the seals for the my transmission + transfer case today. 3 seals for the tranny, and 4 for the drat transfer case. Glad I decided to just do the selector shaft only, the rest would be a huge pain. Crustashio fucked around with this message at 00:57 on Sep 22, 2009 |
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Sep 22, 2009 00:41
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Trinston posted:Can anyone confirm that there is no such thing as a 2004 BMW 320 in the US? I have seen plenty of E46 320i's at least in Canada. I'm pretty sure they exist in a 2004.
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Sep 22, 2009 03:05
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McMadCow posted:It is an E30 325i. I just reached under the exhaust and undid it by hand. Went in reverse to reattach it. Seemed easy as pie to me. Of course, I did it when the engine was cold, but beyond that I don't see what could be so hard about it... It gets a lot harder when the PO uses red rtv on it for some reason. Had to drive a screwdriver through it to get enough torque.
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Sep 22, 2009 03:43
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I'm possibly going to need oxygen sensors on my e46. I've looked around the usual sites and found lots of conflicting information on oem vs. dealer parts, mostly talking about wiring and electrical connector differences. AutohausAZ shows bosch parts for ~135 each, the best price I've found from a dealership is about 170. Are these likely to be anything like the cam position sensors where you should just get the dealership parts, or should they be the same provided that they're bosch? Also, without specific fault codes it's not possible to say whether pre or post-cat sensors are more likely to cause a rich condition, is it?
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Sep 23, 2009 13:50
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Taymar posted:I'm possibly going to need oxygen sensors on my e46. I've looked around the usual sites and found lots of conflicting information on oem vs. dealer parts, mostly talking about wiring and electrical connector differences. FCPGroton has the cheapest oxygen sensors (still Bosch) that I've ever been able to find. They seem significantly cheaper than AutohausAZ. A Bosch sensor is a Bosch sensor, regardless of who sells it, so as long as its Bosch it should be OK. CornHolio fucked around with this message at 14:32 on Sep 23, 2009 |
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Sep 23, 2009 14:29
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Taymar posted:Also, without specific fault codes it's not possible to say whether pre or post-cat sensors are more likely to cause a rich condition, is it? Much more likely to be the upstream sensor. I think the downstream sensor is only used to measure catalytic efficiency.
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Sep 24, 2009 16:24
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peterjmatt posted:Do you track your car? If so, it's probably worth switching over to poly bushings. If you're just doing street driving, I wouldn't bother. I have poly front CABs, trailing arm bushings, and subframe bushings. The Power flex front CABs are )or at least were) poorly designed and needed some dremel work to fit. Other than that I haven't had an issue. Road noise and vibration is definitely increased, and gravel roads are especially bad. My car is a ragged out 200k mile e36, so it was kind of noise in the first place. I'm young and I drive like a dick, so NVH doesn't bother me, but I wouldn't recommend putting polyurethane everywhere if you don't want to feel every crack and pebble on the road. My motor mounts need to be replaced, and I'll probably go poly there as well.
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Sep 24, 2009 19:04
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Tried to clean the MAF on my 97 540 today and ended up finding these (see pic) instead of T20s or T25s which are supposed to be in the spot instead. What the hell are these and how do I get them off? Click here for the full 2048x1536 image.
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Sep 24, 2009 19:46
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Xenoid posted:Tried to clean the MAF on my 97 540 today and ended up finding these (see pic) instead of T20s or T25s which are supposed to be in the spot instead. What the hell are these and how do I get them off? Dont take the probe out of the ducting just remove the MAF from the engine bay and spray it down with MAF cleaner, let dry and reinstall.
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Sep 24, 2009 20:01
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:Dont take the probe out of the ducting just remove the MAF from the engine bay and spray it down with MAF cleaner, let dry and reinstall. So remove the whole ducting pipe and spray the probe inside it? I cleaned the ICV and it seemed to have helped my idle. It was so coated in dirt that it wouldn't move and was causing the car to stall randomly. When I first started the car just now I noticed the first time I started to press the accelerator the rpms dropped for a split second before they climbed. This happened before, but much worse (almost making the car stall). However, this time it only happened the first time when the engine wasn't that warm and then it stopped entirely.
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Sep 24, 2009 20:38
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Xenoid posted:So remove the whole ducting pipe and spray the probe inside it? Correct, just hose it down with the MAF cleaner and let it drip/air dry. I usually will spray the probe 3-4 times from different angles to make sure it's clean.
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Sep 24, 2009 21:00
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Alright, I did that and cleaned the hell out of the ICV as well and my problems are still persisting. They seem to be related to both idle and fuel/air mixture when throttle is applied. I just got an iPhone so I've made a video of it. When the car is idling properly I am applying a tap of gas and in that very instant the RPMs drop and the car stalls (or nearly stalls as you will see in the video). You can see it HERE. Also my oil light is on for some reason as of 30 minutes ago. My oil was changed last month and it is fine though. I have a minor leak at the rear main but it will be fixed soon. I was also experiencing some type of leaking around the oil filter and it was dripping through in front of the tyre. Happens sporadically. I cleaned out the entire area so that I can determine if it's still leaking or not. Xenoid fucked around with this message at 21:57 on Sep 24, 2009 |
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Sep 24, 2009 21:52
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Xenoid posted:Alright, I did that and cleaned the hell out of the ICV as well and my problems are still persisting. They seem to be related to both idle and fuel/air mixture when throttle is applied. I just got an iPhone so I've made a video of it. When the car is idling properly I am applying a tap of gas and in that very instant the RPMs drop and the car stalls (or nearly stalls as you will see in the video). You can see it HERE. Have you looked at your spark plugs? Generally that's my first step once I'm stumped, but I hear they are a bitch to remove on v8 e39s. How about the connectors for the IACV, MAF, and TPS? Pull the plug and go bonkers on all the contacts with electronics cleaner spray. edit: Does your car have a low oil level light, or is it a normal dummy light? If it's a normal oil light, it does not mean that your oil level is low, it means that there is no oil pressure and the motor is eating its self. I wouldn't run the engine AT ALL with the oil light on until you are sure that it has oil pressure. If you run it with a dead oil pump a weird idle is the least of your concerns. User Error fucked around with this message at 22:07 on Sep 24, 2009 |
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Sep 24, 2009 22:05
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chem42 posted:Have you looked at your spark plugs? Generally that's my first step once I'm stumped, but I hear they are a bitch to remove on v8 e39s. How about the connectors for the IACV, MAF, and TPS? Pull the plug and go bonkers on all the contacts with electronics cleaner spray. New plugs last year, gapped properly, think I used NGKs or some such that were agreed on as being the best by bimmerforums or something. I cleaned all the electrical plugs I could see with cleaner spray. Was thinking maybe it's something to do with the throttle cable linkage or bushings. That doesn't explain how I'll push the clutch in as I coast the last few feet to a stop and my revs plummet and stall out the car or cause the revs to bounce off the idle line. I don't see how there could be no oil pressure. Pretty sure I'd have no oil and a blown up engine by now considering how often I take it up to the redline. The light came on a while ago and is on and off since. Xenoid fucked around with this message at 22:30 on Sep 24, 2009 |
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Sep 24, 2009 22:23
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Xenoid posted:New plugs last year, gapped properly, think I used NGKs or some such that were agreed on as being the best by bimmerforums or something. I have a feeling that it's still the IACV or possibly the CCV. Have you spritzed all the vacuum connections for both valves with starter fluid? e: Google found this, could be useful if you haven't seen it yet http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?p=4457828
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Sep 24, 2009 22:37
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I know the I6 engines of that era have a vacuum line that goes to some sort of EGR setup that likes to get brittle, break, and cause symptoms similar to yours, maybe check that out? Giving it a once over for vacuum leaks in general would be a good idea if you haven't already.
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Sep 24, 2009 23:04
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I tightened up the throttle cables and it seems that the problem that I displayed in the video is gone. The car instantly revs now and doesn't drop or hesitate. I have yet to drive it and see if the other problem with the stalling while coming to a stop is fixed but I'll know soon enough.
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Sep 24, 2009 23:27
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Your oil pump could be on the verge of going out, or the oil filter could be getting clogged (or be defective), etc... I'd get an oil pressure reader on it STAT just to make sure. They're like $20 at Harbor Freight.
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Sep 25, 2009 00:00
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In an m30 engine/5spd, what do you figure could be causing it to vacillate on power between 4-5k rpm, usually up a slight grade. Its hot a hiccup, stutter or cough. its a slight, rhythmic up/down in power in about 1 second cycles.
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Sep 25, 2009 00:40
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Xenoid posted:I tightened up the throttle cables and it seems that the problem that I displayed in the video is gone. The car instantly revs now and doesn't drop or hesitate. I have yet to drive it and see if the other problem with the stalling while coming to a stop is fixed but I'll know soon enough. It seemed perfectly fine (fixed) at first but that is not the case. Cable is still tight but there is a delay when the throttle opens and the RPMs fall still. Oil pressure light keeps going off and then fading back on again. Looking into the oil pressure tester.
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Sep 25, 2009 02:05
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So, I can get a new Supersprint catback for $369+shipping, the only downside: DTM tips. I have never once seen a car in traffic with DTM tips, and my E36 looks so clapped out (it isn't, most days) that DTM tips would be hilarious to me, to hell with what everyone else thinks, especially when my car sounds like it's powered by the screams of 1000 burning cats.
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Sep 26, 2009 15:25
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would i be a retard to buy a BMW 318i, 1991 5spd, 136k for $1500 as my daily driver and not expect to have to work on it? How reliable are these things and how much poo poo goes wrong with em? My old car that I crashed was a nissan sentra and I never had to ever repair it (lasted like ~200k miles) here's a link to the clist posting http://easternshore.craigslist.org/cto/1393651508.html . Guy mentioned that its been pretty well taken care of, but as the car is like an hour away I havent been able to look at it myself. the big plus for me is the md inspection, I really need a car that I can just buy and drive. I guess by reliable I mean like compared to a car like your generic japanese econobox of the same year V Feral Integral fucked around with this message at 20:06 on Sep 26, 2009 |
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Sep 26, 2009 19:57
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Feral Integral posted:would i be a retard to buy a BMW 318i, 1991 5spd, 136k for $1500 as my daily driver and not expect to have to work on it? How reliable are these things and how much poo poo goes wrong with em? My old car that I crashed was a nissan sentra and I never had to ever repair it (lasted like ~200k miles) I think a lot is going to depend on whether or not it has been taken care of. Regardless of the make and model, any car that old is going to have stuff fail occasionally, definitely more so if it hasn't been maintained properly.
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Sep 26, 2009 19:59
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Feral Integral posted:would i be a retard to buy a BMW 318i, 1991 5spd, 136k for $1500 as my daily driver and not expect to have to work on it? Yes.
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Sep 26, 2009 22:37
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Crustashio posted:
Agree. You aren't going to find any decent $1500 cars of any type, unless it's some nasty mid-90's garbage like a Cavalier or Neon or, if you're very lucky, a Geo Prism. Seriously, do everyone a favor and budget at least $2500 for a daily driver.
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Sep 26, 2009 22:45
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Feral Integral posted:would i be a retard to buy a BMW 318i, 1991 5spd, 136k for $1500 as my daily driver and not expect to have to work on it? How reliable are these things and how much poo poo goes wrong with em? My old car that I crashed was a nissan sentra and I never had to ever repair it (lasted like ~200k miles) I would buy that BMW for $1500, but I would expect to dump another $1500 to bring it "up to snuff" and then probably ~$500 a year to keep it running well.
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Sep 27, 2009 02:43
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Goddamnit I think I just bought a 2002
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Sep 27, 2009 03:36
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