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Yesterday, my sister and I took her dog to a local park that is also used as an off-leash exercise area. A man with a couple of miniature schnauzers approached us with his dogs on-leash (ours were off). He asked if we could let our dogs meet and my sister said "Yeah but it's probably a good idea to let your dogs off the leash." He did, and our dogs met his and they played fine for a while. Then he put his schnauzers back on the leash and hung around for a bit. One of his dogs was then approached by another, who laid down in front and started licking the schnauzer's chin. She received a quick bite to the face for her troubles. Why do dogs act differently towards other dogs on and off leash?
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Oct 2, 2009 05:36
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Quick question - is neosporin safe to use on cats? I tried to Google it, but I didn't see anything reliable. My cat has an icky looking raw patch right around her throat where there's no fur and it looks like there's been a bit of blood. She had a bit of an infection last year and it was a huge pain in the rear end giving her antibiotics (she's a bitchy cat). Since she can't lick there, is it okay to give her neosporin or some other kind of cream?
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Oct 2, 2009 05:48
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ChairmanMeow posted:I don't know if it's the same type of dissolvable stitches they give people, but I had some inside me that my body rejected and forced to the surface and out the incision. Scared the hell out of me. I had stitches on the inside and the outside and this happened after the outside stitches had come out, so I assumed they some how did a lovely job and left the stitches in, I threw a fit screaming how they couldn't even remove stitches right. I felt like an rear end in a top hat. Ugh, I had surgery on my wrist and I had a loop of dissolvable stitches come out. If you tugged on it a little I could feel it inside and the skin would pull funny against it. It creeped me the gently caress out. My doc said to not try to pull it out and leave it be. I ended up trimming it down to skin level because it's all I could focus on. Sexual Panda posted:Quick question - is neosporin safe to use on cats? I tried to Google it, but I didn't see anything reliable. My cat has an icky looking raw patch right around her throat where there's no fur and it looks like there's been a bit of blood. She had a bit of an infection last year and it was a huge pain in the rear end giving her antibiotics (she's a bitchy cat). Since she can't lick there, is it okay to give her neosporin or some other kind of cream? Take her to the vet. Neosporin wont get rid of an infection the way antibiotics can. What if it's an abscess? What was it last time? Even if it's the same thing as last time obviously the vet wanted her on antibiotics so that's what you should do. It also can't be comfortable for her either and neosporin wont help her with that either. Her being a bitchy cat isn't a good reason to skimp on vet care.
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Oct 2, 2009 06:11
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You also have to be careful about topical medications on cats because they will groom it off and ingest it. I would not use anything topical on a cat without a vet's ok, even OTC products.
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Oct 2, 2009 08:23
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KilGrey posted:What if it's an abscess? What was it last time? She had cat acne last year, whereas this is definitely something different, more like a patch of skin where it seems like she scratched herself. I don't use plastic bowls and she gets clean dishes every day, so I'm not concerned with it being acne. I'm not going to skimp on vet care if that's what's necessary. It's not infected and I believe it will heal on it's own, but I've heard stories of family friends using Neosporin on their dogs, so I figured perhaps it would be safe for cats. Guess not, so if she doesn't get better we'll head to the vet 
Sexual Panda fucked around with this message at 15:57 on Oct 2, 2009 |
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Oct 2, 2009 15:49
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Yesterday I got a 2 month old lab/shepherd mix. They told me to feed him science diet hard food, soft food, and a teaspoon of cat food mixed in with the hard food. The problem is that he won't eat it. When my girlfriend took him to her mothers to watch him, he gladly ate her dogs adult food "Purina moist and meaty" but wouldn't touch his own. What should I do? Do I force him to eat his food or do I try buying Purina puppy food and see if he eats that or do I let him eat the adult dog food?
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Oct 2, 2009 17:13
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yoslow posted:Yesterday I got a 2 month old lab/shepherd mix. They told me to feed him science diet hard food, soft food, and a teaspoon of cat food mixed in with the hard food. The problem is that he won't eat it. When my girlfriend took him to her mothers to watch him, he gladly ate her dogs adult food "Purina moist and meaty" but wouldn't touch his own. What should I do? Do I force him to eat his food or do I try buying Purina puppy food and see if he eats that or do I let him eat the adult dog food? Who is "they?" Science Diet is crap food and unless it's prescription or for a medical reason, you don't actually have to feed that. If you're looking for a good food, try the Pet Nutrition Thread to find a food that's both good for your dog and something he'll enjoy.
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Oct 2, 2009 20:47
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yoslow posted:Yesterday I got a 2 month old lab/shepherd mix. They told me to feed him science diet hard food, soft food, and a teaspoon of cat food mixed in with the hard food. The problem is that he won't eat it. When my girlfriend took him to her mothers to watch him, he gladly ate her dogs adult food "Purina moist and meaty" but wouldn't touch his own. What should I do? Do I force him to eat his food or do I try buying Purina puppy food and see if he eats that or do I let him eat the adult dog food? ...a teaspoon of cat food mixed in? Huh? That's really weird. And yeah, Science Diet isn't great and you can choose between hard food or soft if you don't want to feed both. Not a problem with it but it's not a requirement or anything. Like Serella said, check out the Pet food Megathread, Purina One isn't the greatest but it's not horrible or the end of the world if you stick with that. Some flavors seem to be better than other. If you have to buy from the grocery store, that's what I would go with. If it was the vet that told you to feed Science Diet, a lot of them have agreements with Science Diet to display and promote their products so that might be why. Animals can be really picky and while it all just looks like kibble to us, it does taste different to them. People have different opinions on what 'should' and 'shouldn't' be done in regard to nutrition and some peopel are more militant about it than others, as long as you research and educate yourself I'm sure you'll find something that works for you and your dog. Edit: Also, when you switch your dog to a new food it's good to mix in the new with the old for a few days. When you switch an animals food they often times get the runs and this helps to stop that from happening.
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Oct 2, 2009 21:12
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Waldo P Barnstormer posted:Yesterday, my sister and I took her dog to a local park that is also used as an off-leash exercise area. A man with a couple of miniature schnauzers approached us with his dogs on-leash (ours were off). He asked if we could let our dogs meet and my sister said "Yeah but it's probably a good idea to let your dogs off the leash." Sometimes if a dog is pulling against the leash to try to approach another dog it can change the way their body language looks so they come off to the other dog as more defensive or aggressive. It's usually a better idea to have dogs meet on leash though, especially if you're in a more uncontrolled environment just so it would be easier to pull them apart if a fight started. Also, the schnauzer may not have appreciated a dog he didn't know just sticking her face right in his, even if she was acting submissive. It's usually more polite for dogs to approach indirectly and circle around a little bit, sniffing each other but not just shoving themselves right at the other dog's face.
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Oct 2, 2009 22:57
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Okay, why the hell does my boy cat try to bite my girl cat on the back of the neck? He usually does it when they are grooming each other, but occasionally will just walk over to her and try to bite her. Girl cat's reaction to this varies- sometimes she ignores it, sometimes she looks at him with a "wtf?" face but lets him continue, and at yet other times she gets pissed off and slaps him in the head, which usually results in them chasing each other around hissing. Usually she just ignores it though. Is this something I should stop or is it just a cat thing? They generally get along well with each other though now and again their playing will end up as hissing and smacking each other, which again I figure is a typical cat thing cause they'll be curled up sleeping together two minutes after  For reference they are both fixed, she is 7 years old and he is roughly 1 1/2. He's lived with us since August.
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Oct 3, 2009 23:40
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Telemaze posted:Okay, why the hell does my boy cat try to bite my girl cat on the back of the neck? He usually does it when they are grooming each other, but occasionally will just walk over to her and try to bite her. Girl cat's reaction to this varies- sometimes she ignores it, sometimes she looks at him with a "wtf?" face but lets him continue, and at yet other times she gets pissed off and slaps him in the head, which usually results in them chasing each other around hissing. Usually she just ignores it though. It's just a cat thing. My older girl cat used to do that to my little boy when he was a kitten, she'd grab the back of his neck and kind of pin him down. It's something they do when sorting out the pecking order. Now they both do it to each other to instigate play. He'll run up to her, bite the back of her neck then run like hell. I wouldn't worry about it unless the girl looks like she's being hurt. I doubt she is or there would be a much different reaction.
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Oct 3, 2009 23:47
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Thanks KilGrey for the quick answer! I suppose I get overly nervous about their interactions because he is so much bigger than she is- he will be literally twice her weight when he is done gaining the amount he needs to. But since it certainly doesn't seem to be harming her and she is not afraid to smack him when she's had enough, I won't worry about it
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Oct 3, 2009 23:56
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Telemaze posted:Thanks KilGrey for the quick answer! I suppose I get overly nervous about their interactions because he is so much bigger than she is- he will be literally twice her weight when he is done gaining the amount he needs to. I understand. I was a nervous wreck when I got my little boy because I had never really introduced a cat and a kitten before on my own. It can be difficult getting used to how cats play because it comes across so rough with all the biting, hissing and wrestling around. My cat literally sound like they are trying to murder each other at times then flop over in a kitty pile and groom each other 5 seconds later. She'll let him know if he ends up biting too hard.
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Oct 4, 2009 00:07
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Our 4 1/2 month old Minature Schnauzer has started to nervously shake (tail down, real nervous/scared look in his eyes), this started after us being gone for about 10 hours (Neighbor had stopped by twice for bathroom/stretch breaks). Is this the beginning of some sort of separation anxiety? Or is something else going on? We'll be taking him to the vet this week to be sure, but I would like some opinions. He is losing his baby teeth at the moment, could that be another possibility?
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Oct 5, 2009 02:06
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I have a couple questions about the siberian husky I just adopted from a shelter. He's about a year old and we just had him neutered so he's still on his pain medication. I've been putting the pills in peanut butter and then rolling it around in his food (this trial bag that's made for sensitive stomachs that I bought at petsmart) to get him to eat it. After he ate during the evening and 3 or 4 times throughout the night as well as this morning after I fed him, he starts to hack and almost look like he's about to throw-up, but never does. What could be causing this? Is this normal? He eats pretty fast, but nowhere near as fast as I've seen some dogs eat, and he doesn't seem to cough or hack when he's actually eating, it's only after. My thoughts were that it's either the food, the medicine or he's just eating too fast. Thoughts?
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Oct 5, 2009 16:39
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My puppy started doing that after he got nuetered and it turned out to be kennel cough. If he does it more than after meals then you might want to get him checked out, especially If he wasn't vacinated for kennel cough.
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Oct 5, 2009 21:34
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its like lava posted:My puppy started doing that after he got nuetered and it turned out to be kennel cough. If he does it more than after meals then you might want to get him checked out, especially If he wasn't vacinated for kennel cough. The shelter I adopted him from said they vaccinate all their dogs against kennel cough when they're taken in. He wasn't doing it during his first house visit a couple days before we got him. He only started doing it after the first time we fed him here at home. I'm worried that it might be some kind of food allergy, but I would think the reaction might be more violent/obvious.
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Oct 5, 2009 22:00
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I had a sort of stupid question regarding my corgi (Cable, 3 1/2) and the Westie (Maddie, 10) I'm babysitting. Cable and Maddie know each other from frequent babysitting exchanges I do with my boss. Normally, Maddie wants nothing to do with Cable and find his energy irritating. Cable has this weird thing where he'll let out a high pitched whine while he tries to lick her face, ears back. Maddie growls and holds her head up, then walks away when she's had enough. This only typically happens when Cable attempts to greet her. Today, I caught them playing - which NEVER happens. Here's the game: Maddie bites Cable in the neck, then bounces back, then Cable bites her neck, submits by laying on his back, and lets her bite his neck. Over and over. They were running in circles playing this game for over 15 minutes. What does this body language tell me about their relationship and attitude toward each other? Cable is young and loves to play, but really doesn't have a lot of interest in other dogs most of the time. Maddie is old and grouchy. I guess I just don't get why they were playing today.
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Oct 6, 2009 15:49
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noelcat posted:I had a sort of stupid question regarding my corgi (Cable, 3 1/2) and the Westie (Maddie, 10) I'm babysitting. Cable and Maddie know each other from frequent babysitting exchanges I do with my boss. Even old ladies feel like playing sometimes.  From the way it sounds, it seems like they were both in a playful mood, but Cable still understands that Maddie is the boss, and is letting her win by toppling over. My in-laws' dogs do it all the time, it's really fun to watch.
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Oct 6, 2009 21:25
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There probably isn't a definitive answer for this, but I'd like PI's opinions. My husband and I are going to be out of the country for a couple of weeks later this month. We can either leave our one cat at home (Wasabi, 1 1/2) and have a trusted friend check in on her (feed, water, scoop, play if she doesn't hide under the couch) and the house every couple of days OR we can take her to the vet and have her boarded for the duration. Other than the car ride, going to the vet's office is a non-event and the vet is cats only. Boarding costs aren't an issue. Any thoughts on one way or another?
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Oct 6, 2009 21:31
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Hey all, I'm sorry if this has been asked before, I've had a look but there are a LOT of posts in here! Some quick back story: We have two family dogs, one is 14 the other is 10. They're both utter mutts, and scruff (the elder of the two) has had a bad back for a while (read years) which doesn't cause him pain unless he over exerts himself, which isn't much of a problem cause now that he's an old dog he's lazy as hell. Our other mutt, wiggum, is a very very special case. He was a rescue (they both were) but he was about 3 or 4 when we got him, and terrified of anything you can think of. He's still a VERY nervy dog, but quite comfortable in his world (our house and garden) and utterly trusts us. He's recently gone mostly blind (peripheral vision and limited) Here's the real problem, our back garden, (thanks to some problem drains and unfortunate raw sewage overflow which has to be cleaned and disinfected) has become off limits. Which means letting the dogs out to play/ laze in the sun/ pee is now a no go. Which means taking them out for walks to pee every time. But wiggum won't go when he's on the lead, and i don't know how to make him. He'll hold it for AGES and then he seems so much more freaked out when he has to do it on the lead. How do I do this without freaking him out? And while we're at it,I know i should know by now, and we muddle through, but does anyone have any advice as how to walk a blind dog? I'm sorry if this is too long.
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Oct 6, 2009 21:41
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fine-tune posted:There probably isn't a definitive answer for this, but I'd like PI's opinions. If it were my cat I would leave it at home for several reasons. 1. I would rather pay a friend and help them out than pay for boarding. 2. The house is more familiar and with you gone I think the cat would be more comfortable. 3. You are probably going to have someone watch the house anyways so why would you bother with 2 places. HOWEVER If there is crap you think the cat could get into or if it's the type of cat to wreak havoc then I would be worried about them getting into something bad unless someone checked in rather often. But then again I am a worrier.
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Oct 6, 2009 22:09
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fine-tune posted:There probably isn't a definitive answer for this, but I'd like PI's opinions. For a couple weeks I'd go with the boarder so they can have some sort of frequent interaction other than someone running in, feeding and scooping. Ask the vet what size the cages are, how much interaction they'll get and if the cats get time out of the cages during the day. That might help you to make up your mind as well. KilGrey fucked around with this message at 22:28 on Oct 6, 2009 |
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Oct 6, 2009 22:26
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If you do go the friend route, I suggest you leave you credit card number at the vet's office for boarding fees (and/or misc. emergency fees), in case something comes up and the friend can't take care of the cat like he should. For me, 2 weeks is the absolute maximum I would trust a friend to watch my cat. Longer than that, I would want them in a secure safe place like my vet's boarding facility.
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Oct 6, 2009 23:01
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Another option is finding and trial testing a good pet sitter. Good pet sitters are worth their weight in gold, and allow for the cats to stay at home AND get watched. When I went out of country last year, it was great to have someone interacting with the cats every day, and could keep us updated by email on their antics (they got into the freezer, and the pet sitter was awesome enough to let us know right away and clean it up so there wasn't a mess waiting for us at home). Plus, the pet sitter cost less than boarding them (ymmv on this one).
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Oct 6, 2009 23:23
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Is this a puppy mill or a legitimate collection of breeders? http://northcarolinalabradorbreeders.com/nc-puppies-for-sale/
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Oct 7, 2009 03:12
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Ran posted:Is this a puppy mill or a legitimate collection of breeders? Looks more like a broker to me. That's someone that buys puppies from mills and BYBs and resells them. Basically, it's like an on-line pet store. 
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Oct 7, 2009 03:24
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I don't know if it's a puppy mill or a collection of backyard breeders (most likely both), but either way don't buy from them. The puppies are AKC registered but that doesn't mean poo poo, just that they're actually purebred. It means nothing about the quality of their breeding. I see nothing on the site about showing, health testing, or proving the parents in any way.
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Oct 7, 2009 03:26
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nonanone posted:Another option is finding and trial testing a good pet sitter. Good pet sitters are worth their weight in gold, and allow for the cats to stay at home AND get watched. When I went out of country last year, it was great to have someone interacting with the cats every day, and could keep us updated by email on their antics (they got into the freezer, and the pet sitter was awesome enough to let us know right away and clean it up so there wasn't a mess waiting for us at home). Plus, the pet sitter cost less than boarding them (ymmv on this one). A good sitter will check in on the cat more often than every couple days too. I check on the cats I petsit at LEAST twice a day (to feed, scoop, change water and play).
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Oct 7, 2009 03:42
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tse1618 posted:I don't know if it's a puppy mill or a collection of backyard breeders (most likely both), but either way don't buy from them. A good indication of this is the fact that it says in the url "puppies for sale." I've never heard of a legitimate breeder that would say that.
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Oct 7, 2009 04:49
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ohforthewings posted:But wiggum won't go when he's on the lead, and i don't know how to make him. He'll hold it for AGES and then he seems so much more freaked out when he has to do it on the lead. How do I do this without freaking him out? And while we're at it,I know i should know by now, and we muddle through, but does anyone have any advice as how to walk a blind dog? Take him for a brisk walk and that should get things moving. As for the blindness, I'd say keep the leash short so you can help guide him. My blind dog would go trip off the curb if you just let the leash slack. He also learned "whoa" and "jump", which is very helpful. He's actually okay off-leash in an unfamiliar area as long as the terrain is level, and you keep a close eye on him to call "whoa" if he's headed towards something he could crash into/trip over. Dogs' sense of smell is remarkable, and probably if he never got overly excited or ran, he could navigate perfectly on his own. But then he wouldn't be a dog.
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Oct 7, 2009 10:12
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fine-tune posted:There probably isn't a definitive answer for this, but I'd like PI's opinions. I have a horror story of leaving two cats for two weeks with trusted friends and family. One of them did not do so well: attacking his own tail -- like to the point of gore. Of course the other cat was just happy as a clam and couldn't care less who did or didn't visit him or who was or wasn't on their honeymoon  .Obviously the mutilator had problems, but we had no idea before the situation triggered them. I would choose the boarding for the constant and consistent interaction. Edit: I would also probably trust a pet sitter over family and friends -- you're guaranteed some amount of interaction when you pay for the service.
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Oct 7, 2009 10:27
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Thanks for all the input everyone! I'm going to call the vet today and get her boarding stuff setup. We'll make sure to send her favorite couple of toys and a shirt that smells like one of us along with her (plus her food). Everyone at the vet's office loves her since she plays so much, so I think she'll be OK.
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Oct 7, 2009 13:53
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My friend is considering getting a puppy soon and has another dog already. He knows that until the puppy gets their shots it shouldn't mingle much with other dogs or go to dog parks or anything, but the dog he already has goes to the dog park often - but this dog is up to date on its shots. Is there any chance of it bringing home something that might harm the puppy if it, say, went to the dog park, came home, then mingled with the puppy? And is it safe for the older dog to mingle with the puppy in general? I also keep hearing about this '4 month shot' for puppies, something like they can't be around other dogs during walks until they get it or some such, but I can't find much information about it. What kind of proof does a reputable breeder generally give that the puppy has gone to the vet and gotten everything checked out? I mean, a backyard breeder is probably going to know the rudimentary bits of a breed's health characteristics, enough to lie and go "yeah, we had that tested" but how do you know if that's legit? If he called their vet would the vet legally be able to discuss it? Also, said breeder claims the pup is AKC registered but as that doesn't seem to mean anything, what's the best way to get proof that this dog isn't the latest in a legacy of inbreeding or poor parental choices? He knows he should avoid people that do BYB for a living, or just throw two parents together for the sake of "gently caress yeah," but what if the breeder responsibly chose two healthy, non-related parents, kept a puppy or few for themselves, and is adopting out the rest? Should he still avoid this person for not being a reputable breeder with years of experience and championed dogs? Sorry for all the questions!
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Oct 7, 2009 21:48
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Irukandji Syndrome posted:What kind of proof does a reputable breeder generally give that the puppy has gone to the vet and gotten everything checked out? I mean, a backyard breeder is probably going to know the rudimentary bits of a breed's health characteristics, enough to lie and go "yeah, we had that tested" but how do you know if that's legit? If he called their vet would the vet legally be able to discuss it? Also, said breeder claims the pup is AKC registered but as that doesn't seem to mean anything, what's the best way to get proof that this dog isn't the latest in a legacy of inbreeding or poor parental choices? If the puppy is AKC registered the breeder will be able to provide you with the puppy's pedigree. You'll want to look at the parents, their accreditations and their lineage. Ideally the parents should be championed, or otherwise proven for desirable characteristics within the breed. AKC registration isn't an automatic "this puppy is awesome" stamp, but I don't think I'd work with a breeder who didn't register with a kennel club. The breeder should be running health checks on the parents, and will be able to provide you with certificates for their clearances, ie OFA hip clearances, CERF eyes, etc. Irukandji Syndrome posted:He knows he should avoid people that do BYB for a living, or just throw two parents together for the sake of "gently caress yeah," but what if the breeder responsibly chose two healthy, non-related parents, kept a puppy or few for themselves, and is adopting out the rest? Should he still avoid this person for not being a reputable breeder with years of experience and championed dogs? Do you know which breeder your friend is looking at? If you're able to provide a name/link I'm sure the PIers can pour over it and help you out. This is a relatively good guide for what to look for while searching for a puppy: http://www.cyberpet.com/dogs/articles/findpet/findpup.htm This one pertains mostly to why you don't buy dogs from a pet store, but it also outlines what you would expect from a reputable breeder: http://hattrick-dals.home.att.net/10Reasons.html Testimonials can be helpful, especially when they're from people who are active within the breed. In my experience, the pickier breeders are the most responsible ones. Be prepared for them to grill you about your past animals, your current living arrangements and more. It can be intimidating, but in the long run it's for the best. If the breeder shrugs their shoulders and says they can "just tell" you'll be a good candidate due to their many years in the business it's a warning sign. Also, the best breeders have waiting lists for their puppies. They do not breed often and their dogs will be in high demand. Finding a good dog takes a lot of planning, and a lot of patience. Edit: Another thing I wanted to add. A responsible breeder will always be willing to take the puppy back should your life change in such a way that taking care of a dog is no longer an option. (Cash back is unlikely.) They should also have health guarantees with the pup, if it falls ill from a hereditary disease. A signed contract should outline both the breeder's and the buyer's responsibilities in such a situation. a life less fucked around with this message at 22:30 on Oct 7, 2009 |
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Oct 7, 2009 22:16
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This might sound bad, but it's a breeder off craigslist. His mother is pressuring him into looking into it due to getting burned by the local rescue three times now for the breed he's seeking (shetland sheepdog, or shelties), they have this terrible habit of emailing (not calling) to say the dog has been adopted by someone else on the very day he was supposed to adopt the dog after weeks of setting things up, getting through paperwork, doing a home check...  Even though it's craigslist (which sends up red flags for a BYB), his mother thinks there's something to it, so he's trying to check out everything he can about the puppy, the breeder, etc. He doesn't have her full name yet, he's going to call her soon and ask as many questions as he can. Thank you for the quick response! e: Also, does saying they have AKC papers and a pedigree prove the dog isn't inbred? Irukandji Syndrome fucked around with this message at 22:54 on Oct 7, 2009 |
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Oct 7, 2009 22:46
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Irukandji Syndrome posted:e: Also, does saying they have AKC papers and a pedigree prove the dog isn't inbred? Nope. It seems really weird to me, but in some circles it's considered appropriate to mate a father with a daughter, or granddaughter, etc. I think you're better off just looking at the soundness of the parents, as well as their credentials. A breeder who's been working with the line for some time will be able to answer that for you. It sounds like your friend will be picking up a dog from a BYB, at best.
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Oct 7, 2009 23:05
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I'm suspicious of the breeder, as is my friend. He's put together a list of questions to grill her on when he calls: - Were both of the parents checked out by a vet and deemed healthy before breeding? - Has she done CERF eye checks on both of the parents? - Has she done OFA hip checks on both of the parents? - If so, will we be able to see the certificates that prove it? - Are the parents championed? - Do the parents both have AKC papers and pedigrees as well? - Has she bred Shelties before, or is this the first litter she's bred? - How old were the puppies when she started to adopt them out? - Does she belong to the local Sheltie Club? - If he develops serious problems shortly after adopting him, will she take him back? Will that be in a written and signed contract? Does anyone have anything to add to that?
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Oct 7, 2009 23:27
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Irukandji Syndrome posted:I'm suspicious of the breeder, as is my friend. He's put together a list of questions to grill her on when he calls: Honestly, there are a few other questions you could ask but those cover most of it. Good breeders don't sell on craigslist though. Most likely she's either going to explain to him why those things he's asking about aren't important (they are) or getting pissy and refuse to talk to him.
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Oct 7, 2009 23:31
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| # ? May 22, 2024 01:03 |
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Will you take the dog back if I develop cancer 5 years down the road and can't take care of the dog anymore? A reputable breeder and a reputable shelter will do that for you. Some people don't like the idea of having to give a pet back when things get bad (instead of finding a suitable new home on their own) but I find it very comforting.
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Oct 7, 2009 23:34
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