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My Legacy (2-3 yrs in NE, 2 yrs in MN) makes mechanics cry. No real rust on the chassis, but every drat bolt. Wherebouts did you move?
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Oct 2, 2009 19:36
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nm posted:My Legacy (2-3 yrs in NE, 2 yrs in MN) makes mechanics cry. Mammoth Lakes, CA. The car was my bosses before he pretty much gave it to me back in May. He parked it in his dirt driveway, which contributed to its major corrosion, along with all the road salt they use in upstate NY. So lets see, I changed the gas tank, fuel filler pipe, brakes, rotors, and pads which were all pretty much seized, the gas tank was the biggest pain in the rear end ever because you have to drop the whole rear differential down to slide the tank out, and I broke off two rusted bolts that held it to the bottom of the car. So it sat on the lift for 3 days while I waited for two odd sized bolts that I searched in every hardware store for about 25 square miles for. Ended up having to order them from the dealer. Also changed timing belt, water pump, plugs/wires, 2 rusted out rear brake lines, fuel sender unit, accessory belts, and an entire exhaust from the second cat back. Oh and a wiper motor... All in all, I'm glad my father's a mechanic, because it would have cost me drat near 4500 dollars to pay someone to do all the work I did for less than $2000. At least it came with 4 new snow tires. Glad it made it all the way here with no major crap ups.
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Oct 2, 2009 20:01
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perabyte posted:Mammoth Lakes, CA. The car was my bosses before he pretty much gave it to me back in May. He parked it in his dirt driveway, which contributed to its major corrosion, along with all the road salt they use in upstate NY. So lets see, I changed the gas tank, fuel filler pipe, brakes, rotors, and pads which were all pretty much seized, the gas tank was the biggest pain in the rear end ever because you have to drop the whole rear differential down to slide the tank out, and I broke off two rusted bolts that held it to the bottom of the car. So it sat on the lift for 3 days while I waited for two odd sized bolts that I searched in every hardware store for about 25 square miles for. Ended up having to order them from the dealer. Also changed timing belt, water pump, plugs/wires, 2 rusted out rear brake lines, fuel sender unit, accessory belts, and an entire exhaust from the second cat back. Oh and a wiper motor... All in all, I'm glad my father's a mechanic, because it would have cost me drat near 4500 dollars to pay someone to do all the work I did for less than $2000. At least it came with 4 new snow tires. Glad it made it all the way here with no major crap ups. You're going to give that car to a grand kid one day and you know it.
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Oct 2, 2009 21:10
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Tiny Faye posted:You're going to give that car to a grand kid one day and you know it. Haha, god I hope not. At least I know it wont rust anymore than it already has out in CA.
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Oct 2, 2009 21:18
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perabyte posted:So my 99 Outback Limited made it all the way across the country. From upstate NY, to the Sierra Mountains in California. I'm just as shocked as all of you. Although I fully expect to have to do a head gasket in the coming months. But I'll have the ONLY rusty Subaru in all of California! Here's something I always wanted to ask. Does that Outback have a turbo, and if not, what function does the hood scoop serve? I thought the 99's you could not get with a turbo.
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Oct 2, 2009 21:19
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Vladimir Putin posted:Here's something I always wanted to ask. Does that Outback have a turbo, and if not, what function does the hood scoop serve? I thought the 99's you could not get with a turbo.
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Oct 2, 2009 21:50
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I tried PMing Jamal about this but didn't really get any response. The problems that I detail in my quote supposedly ended up causing my headgasket to blow. My mechanic has now wanted to charge me $1700 for the headgasket to be changed out. My only problem with this is that I believe it's not my fault since if he had checked the clearances of the lines on the turbo install he might've prevented it from occurring in the first place. At one point he agreed that he would cover it but wasn't happy with it and has reneged on what he said he'd do. Am I in the wrong to expect him to cover it? I'm not entirely convinced that there wasn't other flaws in his work at this point."[ELP posted:"]
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Oct 2, 2009 22:01
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A quick glance around seems to indicate that Forced Performance is notorious for poor fitment of coolant lines (someone with a 2.0L block seemed to have the same issues of lines hitting the block.) So it appears to be a manufacturing defect in the part. You stated yourself that the mechanic has been comping you time to fix all these issues with the part so it seems a little unreasonable for you to want him to eat the head gasket install.
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Oct 2, 2009 22:15
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True, but shouldn't he have checked the fitment before I went 200 miles down the road and barely got it home before I had to tow it back to him again? :V He put the whole thing together himself and never said boo to me about poor fitment or anything. If he had told me to, I would've change it out. We found a fix for the problem ourselves after the fact, but the damage to the engine had been done. All the problems stem from the single one and he's been taking responsibility up to this point and flip-flopped on taking responsibility for this.
Bob Log fucked around with this message at 22:25 on Oct 2, 2009 |
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Oct 2, 2009 22:20
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Hey guys. I have an 01 Impreza RS that is awesome and has about 92k miles, but I have a couple issues. #1 is that it has some sort of clicking noise that seems to increase in speed when I press on the gas. I think it was worse when it was colder, but I'm not sure - in any case, it is still present. I'm also having some difficulty with the steering. Specifically, if I lock the wheel either way when parking, I get kind of a belt squeal type noise, and a more low pitched type noise that seems to vibrate the wheel a bit. I also get the wheel shudder and lower pitched noise when I make turns, occasionally. I feel like this is likely just a maladjusted belt somewhere. I think I'm just gonna take it over to the dealer since they're offering free inspections this month and see what they say, but anyone have any ideas? It does have a new timing belt from the last maintenance before I bought the car.
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Oct 3, 2009 05:21
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How robust is the clutch in the 09 WRX? I took off from a light with a lot of revs and my left heel hung up on the floormat so I slipped the clutch for too long. My fiancee was behind me in her car and said she saw the clutch smoking. That is not a pleasant smell.
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Oct 3, 2009 06:33
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bung posted:How robust is the clutch in the 09 WRX? I took off from a light with a lot of revs and my left heel hung up on the floormat so I slipped the clutch for too long. My fiancee was behind me in her car and said she saw the clutch smoking. That is not a pleasant smell. If its anything like the 2004 WRX clutch (I'm guessing they're exactly the same) then your fine. When I was learning how to launch I rode the clutch in 1st gear to redline. It took me 30 minutes to get home after that and I still smelled it when I parked. So bad it burned my nostrils. It was the stock clutch with 55k on it then, has 76k on it now, and not a single hint of slip yet.
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Oct 3, 2009 06:55
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New rotors are on the car now and the brakes feel good again. A slight shake I had in the wheel under hard braking is now gone. I still cannot get over the difference the new endlinks has made. It's like I'm rediscovering the car all over again.
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Oct 6, 2009 18:08
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Just got my registration in the mail and I really dont want to take my turbo back off. Anyone in the bay area know anyone that will pass my smog ? ^^ lol at your avatar.
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Oct 6, 2009 19:20
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I've noticed my car makes a whining noise when I make turns. I think it only does it when I drive in the morning. I'm gonna make sure it's making that noise in the mornings tomorrow.
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Oct 6, 2009 22:06
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Forgive me if it's been asked earlier in the thread, but are there any risks in running with the fwd fuse in place for long periods of time? I don't really see how it would, but then again I'm a complete newbie when it comes to Subarus. The main reason I ask is because it seems like I'd be able to squeeze a few extra miles per gallon with the rear wheels disengaged..in theory anyway. If there's any risk at all however, I won't bother.
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Oct 7, 2009 19:40
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You really won't see any advantage. The drag of the drivetrain is still there since everything is still rotating. The only thing the FWD fuse does is disable engagement of the clutchpack to transfer power rearward. Under most conditions, the clutch isn't engaged anyways.
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Oct 7, 2009 19:54
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Hey guys, I haven't posted in this thread yet as my Subaru is still relatively new to me, but I have ran in to a problem that appears to have no answer. My car is a 2001 Legacy L wagon. So far it has been an awesome car; really fun to drive, and is perfect for what I need it for. Aside from a blown tire and a leaky oil pan the car has given me no problems. That was, of course, until Sunday night. After driving home in the heavy rain, I noticed that my ABS light was on. I assumed this was just a fault of the heavy rain/moisture possibly effecting something and didn't think to much of it at the time. On Monday morning the legacy's ABS light was off, but a new problem has appeared. When I turn(ed) off my car, I would switch the lights off, pull the e-brake, depress the clutch, and then the brake pedal. Yet, I noticed that when I pushed my foot on the brake pedal (when the car and lights were off), it caused my dash lights to turn on. Depress the pedal and they go off. This alarmed me and I proceeded to check as many of the fuses as possible but they were fine. This problem is persisting. I have called around town, in between class, and this had turned up no results or ideas yet. I have been constantly searching Google for other ideas, but I am turning up nothing. I admittedly know little about cars, as I am going to trade school for carpentry. If you have an idea I would love to hear about it!
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Oct 7, 2009 20:28
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Might as well share with yous guys. Recently upgraded/changed my 08 Leggy from this:  to this:  using the recently found-to-work Japanese dual-din kit. Sweet! Also have the Cobb sway-bar set and recently put on Cobb exhaust.
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Oct 7, 2009 23:24
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Hmm, where's that kit from? Might be interested in doing that myself, if it fits an 06.
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Oct 8, 2009 00:11
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Got it from AVO JDM here: http://www.avojdm.com/index.php?cPath=26_54_60 Here is the monster thread that details it all: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=113589 The OP has pretty much everything you need though.
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Oct 8, 2009 00:58
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I was looking at buying a 2007 Legacy 4 dr with 77K on it. Any known issues that I should look for? Head gaskets or timing belts/chains? I've been looking at Subaru's for quite a while, I like their reputation.
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Oct 8, 2009 01:19
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Armyman25 posted:I was looking at buying a 2007 Legacy 4 dr with 77K on it. Any known issues that I should look for? Head gaskets or timing belts/chains? 77,000 miles is kind of amazing for a 2 year old car...
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Oct 8, 2009 01:52
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ab0z posted:77,000 miles is kind of amazing for a 2 year old car... Yeah, that was bothering me a bit. I looked at the Carfax report online, it was registered in November, 2006 so it's only about 25K per year, which isn't too bad.
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Oct 8, 2009 03:42
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So I was looking at getting a new 2010 WRX as my first fun, manual car. The only issue I have is that the one feature I want (steering wheel audio controls) is only on the WRX Premium models. I really don't want to spend the extra 3K for a better speakers, bass, etc, I just want steering wheel audio controls. How hard would it be too replace and rewire a WRX steering wheel?
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Oct 8, 2009 16:53
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Armyman25 posted:Yeah, that was bothering me a bit. I looked at the Carfax report online, it was registered in November, 2006 so it's only about 25K per year, which isn't too bad. yeah that doesn't necessarily mean it's an abused car, but at that mileage it better be a hell of a price. What submodel/trim/options?
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Oct 8, 2009 17:02
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BexGu posted:So I was looking at getting a new 2010 WRX as my first fun, manual car. Its pretty easy to add steering wheel controls to a base WRX. I'll dig up the PN in a sec. Edit: PN for the buttons is 83154AG001. It includes the stereo controls and cruise controls. It's $95 at subie genuine parts. http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/car-audio/120919-added-steering-wheel-controls-tweeters-base-model-2008-subaru-impreza-wrx.html Tremblay fucked around with this message at 17:18 on Oct 8, 2009 |
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Oct 8, 2009 17:14
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ab0z posted:yeah that doesn't necessarily mean it's an abused car, but at that mileage it better be a hell of a price. http://www.ramsey-urbandale.subaru.com/certified-inventory/2007-Subaru-Legacy+Sedan+AWD/dddc18007f00000101ca695498475bcc.htm Pretty much a basic 4 dr automatic. Nothing too exciting. The dealer wants $13,900 for it.
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Oct 8, 2009 17:40
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Armyman25 posted:http://www.ramsey-urbandale.subaru.com/certified-inventory/2007-Subaru-Legacy+Sedan+AWD/dddc18007f00000101ca695498475bcc.htm Kelly Blue Book value for "Retail" in "Excellent" Condition is $13,250. "Private Party" value in "Excellent" Condition is $11,050, so if that's the car you want I'd try to knock down the price a little bit. It looks like legacies in that price range are scarce in your area, but if you are willing to travel a bit I'm sure you can find a good deal.
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Oct 8, 2009 17:56
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Since it snowed up in northern Michigan last weekend, it got me thinking about snow tires. I've got all-seasons now on my Forester XT, but I think I'm going to pick up a second set of rims and get some snow tires mounted. I know several people run snow tires on their Subarus, what do you suggest?
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Oct 13, 2009 12:02
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The General Tire snow tires are a great value for money. They aren't topping the charts in snow tire tests but really a snow tire is a snow tire on snow, its on dry pavement and ice that you'll notice the difference between a quality one and a lovely one.
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Oct 13, 2009 12:17
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Car: 2004 Subaru Impreza WRX The rubber line that goes from the back of the A/C compressor to the front of the car is leaking an oily fluid from the metal fitting near the front of the car. I thought that the A/C lines were pressurized gas? I'm guessing that my A/C is taking a shiz on me, can someone please confirm? I was told that the A/C compressor most likely took a dump and what is leaking out is the oil that is inside of it.
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Oct 13, 2009 12:49
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I have a 2005 STi with 82k miles on the car. The transmission is starting to grind when I down shift into 4th gear now. I don't know much about transmissions, but is this something that can be fixed with different transmission fluid or does it need to be rebuilt? The fluid was changed about 15k miles ago if that matters.
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Oct 13, 2009 13:55
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8ender posted:The General Tire snow tires are a great value for money. They aren't topping the charts in snow tire tests but really a snow tire is a snow tire on snow, its on dry pavement and ice that you'll notice the difference between a quality one and a lovely one. I just ordered Some General Altimax HP tires for my wagon, I'll try to do a review this weekend after I go on the Subaru cruise.
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Oct 13, 2009 14:15
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ab0z posted:I just ordered Some General Altimax HP tires for my wagon, I'll try to do a review this weekend after I go on the Subaru cruise. I've had the Altimax HP tires before and they are an excellent all-season tire but no replacement for snow tires in anything other than an inch or two of the white stuff. Very good in the dry and wet though. Now the Altimax Arctics are great tires for the price. They're nice and quiet on dry pavement, which is a quality I wish my Goodyear Nordic's had. However I've found that the Nordics are far better on ice and keep the car a bit more stable when plowing through deep snow at high speeds. Handling on dry pavement is better with the Nordics but winter tire handling is poo poo pretty much across the board anyways.
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Oct 13, 2009 14:25
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Shiv posted:I have a 2005 STi with 82k miles on the car. The transmission is starting to grind when I down shift into 4th gear now. I don't know much about transmissions, but is this something that can be fixed with different transmission fluid or does it need to be rebuilt? The fluid was changed about 15k miles ago if that matters. How is your fluid level? And what kind of fluid are you running? I had the dealership put new transmission fluid in shortly after buying my 04xt. I assumed they used the high end Subaru fluid (I forget the name..), but after about 8k miles I was getting a major grind going into first and a slight grind going into 4th. So I'm guessing they put cheaper fluid in. I replaced it myself with 50% Redline Shockproof, 50% and Motul Gear 300. A mixture that's been recommended here and a lot of other places. All of my grinding issues were gone instantly, and everything has felt buttery smooth since.
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Oct 13, 2009 22:47
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8ender posted:The General Tire snow tires are a great value for money. They aren't topping the charts in snow tire tests but really a snow tire is a snow tire on snow, its on dry pavement and ice that you'll notice the difference between a quality one and a lovely one. General Altimax snow tires perform incredibly for the price, I would put them extremely close to the Hakka RSIs I used to run, for ~$200/set of 4. Get these if you want an awesome set of snows that don't break the bank. FecalFajita posted:I replaced it myself with 50% Redline Shockproof, 50% and Motul Gear 300. A mixture that's been recommended here and a lot of other places. All of my grinding issues were gone instantly, and everything has felt buttery smooth since. Great fluid mix, definitely recommend it to anyone driving a Subaru, or even a 75/25 mix.
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Oct 13, 2009 23:18
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FecalFajita posted:How is your fluid level? And what kind of fluid are you running? Just the standard Subaru fluid. I'll try that mixture and hope that eliminates the problem, definitely cheaper then a rebuild.
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Oct 13, 2009 23:29
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When I had the tires put on they pointed out that my ball joints are bad (knew that, parts are on order) and that the left inner tie rod is bad also. Are there any crazy tools I'm gonna need to change that inner tie rod?I figure I might as well change them both since I'm under the car and it has 240,000 miles so the other can't be that far behind.
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Oct 14, 2009 14:35
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Okay guys, put your thinking caps on. http://people.umass.edu/jaldrich/3rdgear.bmp http://people.umass.edu/jaldrich/2ndgear.bmp These are some logs I took the other day. The car feels slow under boost, it also hits boost slower than usual. Engine: Ver7 STi Engine (non-Spec C) Modifications: -HKS TBE -Perrin inlet tube -invidia uppipe It's tuned for everything except the uppipe, which, apart from having a little larger ID, is pretty much the same as the factory uppipe (which is also catless). Possible causes: -Battery? (mine isn't as strong as it used to be) -alternator -exhaust leak I've checked for boost leaks twice and I haven't found anything. Also, I've had a boost leak in the past and this doesn't feel like one. Good luck, and thanks for any help you guys can provide.
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Oct 14, 2009 14:59
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