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Crap. Winter is coming up, and I'm moving to Chicago. need to find some winter tyres on the cheap. :\
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Oct 14, 2009 23:44
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Just Another XY posted:Crap. Winter is coming up, and I'm moving to Chicago. need to find some winter tyres on the cheap. :\ order some winterforce from tirerack.com
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Oct 15, 2009 00:35
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I have an issue with my 2008 Legacy 2.5GT Spec.B and I am in the process of trying to figure out what to do about it. Figured this would be a good place as any to ask. This will be a long post. The problem, which is well documented among turbo Legacy owners, is a hesitation or stutter that the engine produces while accelerating in the lower to mid RPMs. This same problem was very common with the 2007 STi, which Subaru promptly fixed since so many STi owners complained about it. The issue with the Legacy, however, is that Subaru has never officially acknowledged it to be a problem and therefore has never tried to fix it, most likely because there are not nearly as many turbo Legacies on the road compared to STIs and they never felt the need. The problem is quite severe. Nearly every time I accelerate, the engine bogs down and lurches forward, then bogs down and lurches forward again, as if the timing is being drastically pulled or there is a shortage of fuel at intermittent bursts. It is most prominent around 2,000-4,000rpm but can happen really anywhere in the range. It can be pretty dangerous, as I have been nearly rear-ended twice while merging onto a highway with a very short onramp due to the engine cutting out and hitting a wall when I need it to accelerate. But most often it is just extremely annoying. I can see the heads of my passengers in the car whip forward and back when accelerating which also makes it quite embarrassing. I have searched forever through the LegacyGT forums and everywhere I could to find solutions, and there are a few which address the problem, but nothing that actually fixes it. Subaru released a reflash in early 2008 that was supposed to fix this problem, and apparently some of the older cars, 05-07, have seen improvements since getting the new flash. However, my car being an 08 and being built after the release of the reflash, is not a candidate. I know this because I've called around to 4 dealerships in the SoCal area and they all said my VIN did not have any ECU updates and they were not allowed to do any sort of reflash unless there was an official SoA approved flash in their systems. I have gone to two dealers in person and talked with their service department about the issue. Each time the person rolled his eyes while trying to tell me I am experiencing a magical thing called "turbo lag". To which I then explain that I've owned 13 turbocharged cars in my life, two being late model Lancer Evolutions, and that I am very well versed in the principles behind turbo lag. This is not turbo lag, this is a poorly tuned or otherwise loving terrible car that needs to be fixed or blown up. So, as I see it, these are my options from what I have read, please feel free to give advice where I am stupid: 1. Sell the car, buy something better. - I've looked into this, and right now it seems to be my best option. The biggest problem is I will lose about 5k in negative equity. I should have just bought the drat 09 WRX I wanted rather than being drawn into the alcantra, NAV, 6spd, and sunroof of the Spec.B. (also that it was priced almost 6k under invoice, brand new, and cheaper than the WRX. 2. Try to get the car fixed. - I can try, and dealers are willing to look at the car, but from what I've read about other people's experiences there isn't anything that can be done. Some people went as far as having the regional rep from SoA drive their car and be told that it is operating normally and have the warranty claim denied. I will be taking it to the dealer to have them look at it as soon as my schedule frees up anyway. 3. Modify it and hope the modifications fix the problem. - Tried this to an extent. I bought the COBB AccessPort hoping since the problem is a tuning issue that a brand new ECU map would fix it. While this did improve some of the problem, there was still hesitation and stuttering happening. Granted it isn't as severe, but it is still there and drives me crazy. People have said that once you get a FMIC and turbo-back and bigger turbo that the problem goes away, but I am not about to go through all of that just to fix a problem that shouldn't exist in the first place. 4. Get the car lemoned. - This is my last resort, but also ties in with fix #2. I was looking into it, and in CA I need to get a lawyer and basically sue SoA to get them to take the car back. This sounds like a huge pain and will probably be a lengthy and possibly expensive venture. So do any of the Subaru pros here have any advice? Has anyone heard of this problem? Really I'd just like to get a little conversation going about it to see what, if anything, people have heard and if there are possibly any fixes that I am unaware of.
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Oct 15, 2009 04:15
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you're in socal and have an accessport? buy a downpipe and go get a tune at hbspeed.
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Oct 15, 2009 04:29
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Ive been slowly making my way through this thread and i'm seeing alot of stuff about headgaskets going between 80k-120k and a few other things that have made me wonder if buying an 04/05-ish WRX wagon with 60k-80k miles is just going to bring me heartache and a much lighter wallet. Im in the SF bay area and the majority of used wagons im finding are 02-04 with mileage ranging from high 50s to low 80s and on average, are about $12,500. For someone that is somewhat mechanically inclined and all together unfamiliar with Subaru's, would you recommend against buying an 04/05s with something like 60-70k? Edit: Re. Reliability around 100k miles: Also clicking having to do with differentials that seems to have come up multiple times, etc. nullfox fucked around with this message at 07:09 on Oct 15, 2009 |
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Oct 15, 2009 07:00
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not a problem. 96-04 non turbo 2.5s are really the only cars that might have headgasket issues. which is actually a lot of cars, and that makes it hard to recommend that people buy used subarus. jamal fucked around with this message at 23:15 on Oct 15, 2009 |
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Oct 15, 2009 09:02
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jamal posted:you're in socal and have an accessport? That's a good idea, though it's ridiculous that Subaru can't tune their own cars from the factory. Will hbspeed tune for partial throttle though? Most of the problems happen cruising at highway speeds with barely any throttle at all, then trying to accelerate even the tiniest bit and having the car buck and surge. The problem happens in WOT between 2k-4krpm, and at every rpm or speed with partial throttle. It seems to me that the engine has problems reacting when it goes from negative to positive pressure.
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Oct 15, 2009 18:36
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yes, but if you explain the issue I'm sure Jon can put more effort into that part of the tune.
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Oct 15, 2009 19:20
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Thanks for the quick reply jamal Here are the kinds of cars im finding alot of in my neck of the woods: http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/ctd/1414182798.html Its good to know that the non-turbo motors are the ones with more of the head gasket issues, lets me know what to look for/stay away from. Aside from the high(er) miles on that one in that ad, is there something about that generation, at that mileage I should be worried about, or asking about in terms of maintenance and common failures?
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Oct 15, 2009 23:07
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ATTENTION: Today I have discovered the most amazing tool in the universe! If you have inner tie rods to do, BUY THIS TOOL YESTERDAY. It is incredibly easy, BUT HERE'S THE BEST PART: Since it's got a standard 1/2" drive on the end, you can use your torque wrench to properly torque your new inner tie rod! and now for my question: How in the hell do you remove ball joints from the knuckle? I got them out of the control arm ok, but removing them from the knuckle is not working out for me.
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Oct 16, 2009 05:12
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I did something sort of silly this week. Yep. I know, I know. It's a 1992 with 150k on the odo. Picked it up for 3k. Luckily the transmission has been replaced with a Nissan unit, which was basically the same except for it lacks Subaru's dumb little fixed filter that caused their unit to perpetually fail. It's got new rear wheel bearings and struts, vented and drilled rotors, new windshield - and, both outside and in, is in almost showroom condition. There are definitely little door dings on the outside here and there, but the interior is immaculate. I haven't even washed it yet. So far, I'm really liking it. It's no WRX, but it's low and quiet and doesn't lean at all - which makes looking out over the huge, flat hood feel like you're piloting a spacecraft. All this being said, I'm squirreling money away, awaiting that first inevitable catastrophic failure of god knows what 17 year old high end japanese hardware/software.
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Oct 16, 2009 05:19
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Hold up a second, it has a nissan transmission?
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Oct 16, 2009 05:24
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ab0z posted:Hold up a second, it has a nissan transmission? Yeah, from a pathfinder more specifically. Edit: I didn't mean it was actually manufactured by Nissan. I worded that wrong. The point is that it doesn't have the filter that caused the Subaru units to fail. Double edit: Well, They fail for a lot of reasons and mine will fail as well - but having an oil cooler and a filter kit should delay that a bit. ursa_minor fucked around with this message at 05:47 on Oct 16, 2009 |
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Oct 16, 2009 05:42
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ab0z posted:and now for my question: A big hammer helps a lot. hitting the sides of the knuckle around the ball joint will loosen it up. You may also want to put the ball joint back through the control arm, turn the nut down a few turns, and then you can pry against the control arm. I once had to entirely remove an upright after snapping off the pinch bolt trying to remove a balljoint. Then I had to drill the bolt out on a drill press, then hammer on the balljoint with a hammer and a screwdriver for a fairly long period of time. All because I said, "hey, your balljoint is hosed and I think I have one laying around. want me to replace it for you?" jamal fucked around with this message at 05:48 on Oct 16, 2009 |
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Oct 16, 2009 05:44
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Short version: Do any of you guys in Portland Or/Vancouver WA have recommended shops to get a proper diagnostic from? I want to avoid rice shops like PRE and such. Long version: I trust you guys more than the other Subaru forums, so if I get bitched out here I'll take it on good faith. I have an 05' STi that I'm really not at all happy with. I can't complain about its hauling capacity, carrying capacity and general comfort on the inside. It corners spectacularly (especially considering how much of a fatass it is), but the thing just doesn't feel like it develops any real power. The OP waaay long ago stated that it puts down 230WHP which would give it something around 14.75lb/hp. A buddy picked up a Mazdaspeed3 not long ago and the damned thing actually gives you a real feeling of acceleration. We went to the PIR late night drags and he was pretty efficient at stomping me despite being his first time at the drags and having a mis-shift on one of the 3 runs we did. I'm not a highly skilled drag racer, but I'm not that grossly incompetent. So this raised a red flag-when I do some short numbers on the MS3, it should only have 1-2 lb/hp edge on me (figuring 10% drive train loss takes 263HP -> 236WHP, 3100lbs puts it at 13.2lb/hp). The last two days I've been driving a buddy's old shitbox 1990 240SX since I just got everything cleaned up on it (it came from a drift-tard shop, bought before it was mutilated). So the engine is basically fresh. Doing the math on it, it has something sloppy- around 20-22lb/hp. So here's the meat of it: The slow boat 240 hasn't been feeling that much slower than the STi. Is it just that much of a fat pig or is there probably something wrong? Are there any goon recommended shops in the Portland/Vancouver area that are competent at doing diagnostics?
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Oct 16, 2009 08:15
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surgeline
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Oct 16, 2009 08:16
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jamal posted:surgeline Holy poo poo, fast response and 4 miles from where I live. Awesome 
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Oct 16, 2009 08:20
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Hey jamal - At the risk of being a huge impatient douchebag, could I get your opinion on a car like this one: http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/ctd/1414182798.html You mentioned earlier that the head gasket was really only an issue on the 2.5 non-turbo which means unless im a giant moron, that the above car shouldn't have that issue. Are there any other common issues or failures I should be looking out for, or specific maintenance questions I should be asking about on that gen/mileage of WRX? Thanks
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Oct 16, 2009 09:29
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jamal posted:A big hammer helps a lot. hitting the sides of the knuckle around the ball joint will loosen it up. You may also want to put the ball joint back through the control arm, turn the nut down a few turns, and then you can pry against the control arm. I once had to entirely remove an upright after snapping off the pinch bolt trying to remove a balljoint. Yeah I figured "no big deal" to do ball joints, then at 10pm had to have my wife come get me from my garage because the fucker wouldn't pop out of the knuckle. I was hoping to do this without removing the whole knuckle but that might not happen. Oh well at least now I have time to order a new pinch bolt, the one that came out looke pretty shady and had heavy corrosion on one side. I'll post pics of the whole mess when I'm done.
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Oct 16, 2009 15:29
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I wouldn't be completely hosed by the new RE960s on my 07 WRX wagon if I took it out to autocross this weekend, would I? I haven't autocrossed in five-plus years so my guess is that I'd run out of skill long before I'd run out of tire.
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Oct 16, 2009 18:00
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2011 Subaru Coupe Nürburgring Action Captured On Video!
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Oct 19, 2009 00:54
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Question for AI: How does a GC 2.5RS compare to say, a stock S13 240SX? Other than the obvious awd vs rwd bit. Does it feel faster/slower? Is the weight difference apparent through the bends? I am selling my s13 (first car, owned for 6 years), and I'd like something that's still sporty, but that I can take up to the mountain for snowboarding etc. (s13 was on coilovers, hellaflush, blah blah). If you have any comments or suggestions, please enlighten me!
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Oct 19, 2009 07:09
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WildFoxMedia posted:Hey jamal - At the risk of being a huge impatient douchebag, could I get your opinion on a car like this one: http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/ctd/1414182798.html seems like a perfectly nice car. One thing that should be replaced is the up-pipe. It's catted and when they wear out chunks of cat tend to end up going through the turbo. If you want to do some extra stuff to go along with that up-pipe, an sti turbo, injectors, and intercooler, and a downpipe and tune will get you like 100 more hp.
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Oct 19, 2009 07:17
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teh bux posted:Question for AI: Powertrain losses are higher on an AWD. So look at the total weight against the HP put to the wheels. If getting up the hill is more important than going fast, go for the Subie. The 232WHP of my 240 decimates the 230-240WHP of my STi, if it's worth anything. My suggestion is keep the 240 since you might want a mod car/project car and get the Subie to actually drive while your 240 is down for repairs.
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Oct 19, 2009 07:21
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FormulaXFD posted:Powertrain losses are higher on an AWD. So look at the total weight against the HP put to the wheels. If getting up the hill is more important than going fast, go for the Subie. The 232WHP of my 240 decimates the 230-240WHP of my STi, if it's worth anything. The 240 is going for sure, for other reasons. The powertrain was mostly untouched, so i'm not too worried about not having a ton of hp/tq. I was mostly wondering if the GC feels like a grocery getter in comparison. It's hard to put in words, maybe the 'agility' of the car? I was more into suspension tweaking with the 240. edit: I'm a college student, so I don't really have the money/room/time to keep the 240 as a fixer-upper project edit2: I'd like another one some day as a badass track car, though 
teh bux fucked around with this message at 07:33 on Oct 19, 2009 |
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Oct 19, 2009 07:31
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ursa_minor posted:I did something sort of silly this week. What's up SVX buddy!  I picked up mine in January as a barely driveable basket case. It's finally at a point now where it runs solidly and reliably, although it still needs minor bodywork, new doors (rotted) and paint. I think the PO went offroading in it  as I'm still picking big chunks of mud / compressed dirt out of suspension bits.Mine got a 4.44 tranny / gear swap (which woke it up a LOT), a nice exhaust to replace the rotted out crap, new cam / crank seals and VCGs, and a shitton of other stuff. Still not done yet, but it's getting there. edit: your wheels are on backwards 
Black88GTA fucked around with this message at 07:54 on Oct 19, 2009 |
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Oct 19, 2009 07:44
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A GC RS is a really fun car to drive, especially with a few suspension parts and some good tires. My Legacy is pretty much the same thing but slightly longer and heavier, and I love driving it. it's not the fastest thing in a straight line but I can live with it. A wrx motor swap would be awesome though.
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Oct 19, 2009 08:01
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Any recommendations for a decent set of all-season tires for an 04 Outback? Winter's coming and my current set is pretty beat to poo poo. I can't really afford to do a separate set of snow tires right now, so something that doesn't suck in poo poo weather is important. Don't want to cheap-out but don't want to break the bank either.
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Oct 19, 2009 17:45
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Tiny Faye posted:Any recommendations for a decent set of all-season tires for an 04 Outback? Winter's coming and my current set is pretty beat to poo poo. I can't really afford to do a separate set of snow tires right now, so something that doesn't suck in poo poo weather is important. Don't want to cheap-out but don't want to break the bank either. I had a set of triple treads on my last car. They were a little noisy but snow and wet performance was very good.
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Oct 19, 2009 18:54
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I came from an 03 Nissan SER Spec V, so the GC8 felt pretty sluggish to begin with. Now the ride has more than made up for it. It has STI shocks/springs all the way around, stiffer front and rear Perrin stab bars and WRX brakes. I am currently on Blizzaks but have a set of stockers, and REO70's for the summer autocross season. I find myself wanting rainy days so I can drive the Subaru rather then the Ducati.
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Oct 19, 2009 21:37
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Lets talk catch cans. I'm getting far more blow-by than I like on the legacy and have been eyeing up the IxizAOSep. http://www.ixizconcept.com/ Feedback? Better options? I want something that will return the oil to the sump.
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Oct 20, 2009 05:43
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FecalFajita posted:
Got a DIY for this ? Im also starting to see some problems when shifting into fourth as well.
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Oct 21, 2009 17:33
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DIY? Just jack the car up/use ramps, and pull the tranny/front diff drain plug, replace plug, and fill up with fluid. Honestly, it's as simple as an oil change. The only thing youll have to determine is if your year WRX/Subaru uses a 22mm plug or a Torx plug.
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Oct 21, 2009 17:34
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polydizzle posted:Got a DIY for this ? Im also starting to see some problems when shifting into fourth as well. Here's a link with some info. The instructions are for a Forester XT, but should give you the gist of it. http://www.scoobymods.com/manual_tranny_fluid_change-t3091.html?t=3091
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Oct 21, 2009 20:27
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TurboLuvah posted:DIY? Just jack the car up/use ramps, and pull the tranny/front diff drain plug, replace plug, and fill up with fluid. Honestly, it's as simple as an oil change. The only thing youll have to determine is if your year WRX/Subaru uses a 22mm plug or a Torx plug. I don't exactly have a lot of experience with cars. For me replacing my radiator was a big deal for me. Sorry.
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Oct 21, 2009 23:48
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nm posted:Lets talk catch cans. I don't particularly like that one; the Crawford seems better. But there are a few other companies coming out with their own at the moment.
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Oct 22, 2009 00:25
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Does this car's price seem right?: http://boston.craigslist.org/sob/cto/1427176943.html description for longevity: Car located in Boston area - original owner, never raced. Car is stock with the exception of a 22mm rear sway bar and Blaupunkt stereo. Well taken care of with good tires, shocks, struts, brakes and clutch - motor runs strong. Original paint is showing it's age and has the usual door dings. Moved to Boston and bought a new car - California registration is current. Would make an excellent project or winter car. 157k miles, headgaskets replaced at 137k. All season tires.
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Oct 22, 2009 00:29
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polydizzle posted:I don't exactly have a lot of experience with cars. For me replacing my radiator was a big deal for me. Sorry. Sorry I didn't mean to come off as a cockbag  But if you've replaced your rad, this will be a cakewalk. What kind of Subaru is it again??
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Oct 22, 2009 00:32
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Hi guys. My 2009 WRX is being awesome, as it has been for the last 5000 miles. But I digress – I'm looking to install a turboback & exhaust for my car. Anybody have any opinion on this? I'm definitely going to have it tuned, preferably by a reputable shop such as HBSpeed up in Fountain Valley. As for complications, I'm worried about two things: 1) Passing smog, since I'm assuming its a catless DP (yes?), also I live in California, so does anybody else have experience with legality? 2) Engine-life – After tune, I'm going to predict at least 25hp+ gain, due to dp/exhaust, correct? So what parts should I be careful wearing out prematurely in the future? Thanks for your help guys, the WRX is truly the first car I gave more than a rat's rear end about, and I don't want to mod it stupidly. This stuff is expensive, but loving it up with lovely parts and naivéte now will gently caress it up more in the future. adnam fucked around with this message at 05:26 on Oct 22, 2009 |
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Oct 22, 2009 05:16
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ursa_minor posted:I did something sort of silly this week. Congrats. What do you mean about the transmission exactly? It's out of a Pathfinder but not a Nissan tranny? I came >< close to buying one of those a few months back. A 94 with 70K KMs on the clock in nice shape (and white too!). I ended up walking though because the seller wasn't being entirely truthful to me which really pissed me off as I flew 1000 miles to get the loving thing.
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Oct 22, 2009 05:21
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