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Some helpful 4L30E fixing tips. (The 4 speed auto box in a lot of '90s small-6 motor 3s and 5s and etc.) Symptom: Sporradic/no/delayed/skipped shift into 3rd gear, especially when the trans is up to temp. More throttle makes the problem worse, but WOT shifts are fine. May also throw Trans Program code and force into limp-home mode (which is ironically 3rd gear) Fix: Replace 2-3 shift solenoid. Procedure: Drain fluid and remove large main sump pan. Remove 3 bolts and drop filter. You will see the solenoids attached to the valve body, and looking from the bottom at the end of the solenoids, the 2-3 solenoid will be on the left. Un-clip the small clip on the right side of the wiring harness. Be really careful because anything plastic will probably be very brittle. The wire loom will practically shatter if you mess with it. You will see the "anti-rattle" pin sticking out that secures the solenoid. Take a good pair of vice grips (preferably with a nice sharp tip) and grab as far down the base of the pin as you can, and rock it back and forth, re-clamping every few MM to try not to damage the pin (you will anyways). Take a small screwdriver and slide out the old solenoid. Replacement is the reverse of removal like usual. Make sure you fill the tranny correctly! This fixed that problem immediately and totally for me. I remember a post on here where someone junked an e34 over this exact problem. It's kind of depressing to me that they could have fixed it for less than $100 bucks.  It's a shame transmission shops are more into pressure-washing 2nd-hand boxes and not actually working on transmissions.Another one! Symptom: Slow downshifts to first when stopping, slow to change between drive, reverse, neutral etc. Banging hard against first if leaving the line too quick after a downshift. Fix: Replace EPC (electronic pressure control) solenoid. Procedure: Remove small secondary sump pan. Inside you will see a smaller valve body with 2 solenoids. Looking at them from the bottom at the exposed ends of the solenoids you will see the TCC solenoid on the right, and the EPC (aka pressure regulator or force motor) solenoid on the left. Remove the wiring harness, and small bolt of the bracket securing it (thank god it's not one of those loving pins!). Replace in reverse order. Shifts are firmer and transition between PRND are significantly faster. It would have been nice to take pictures, but I didn't feel like washing my hands a million times or putting my camera in a bag, and the process for both is really simple once diagnosed. I might eventually do a full overhaul, in which case I will definitely take a lot of pictures and make a thread, but right now it shifts like a new car. EDIT: I forgot to mention that the only BMW specific parts to this trans are the TCM, main pan, filter, and clutch friction plates. Don't go to a dealership or specialty import shop for anything or you will get your pockets turned inside out quickly. BMW wants over $600 dollars for that EPC solenoid, while some trans parts dealers will have it for <$100, and I got mine from ebay for ~$40. Strangely enough, mine has the same part number as one listed on a site as "NOT FOR BMW", where they have the BMW one listed for twice the price, even though it's probably the same thing. Lowclock fucked around with this message at 04:39 on Oct 20, 2009 |
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Oct 19, 2009 03:05
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Why oh why is there about 3/4ths of an inch difference between the space between the front passenger wheel and drivers' wheel as they relate to the wheel well? To clarify, between the 9:00 position on the passenger side wheel and the well directly behind it? No control arms are bent. Struts are new, towers are solid, no rust, nothing bent. Bushings are healthy and secure... (87 e24)
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Oct 21, 2009 00:36
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Clockwork Sputnik posted:Why oh why is there about 3/4ths of an inch difference between the space between the front passenger wheel and drivers' wheel as they relate to the wheel well? You know, I've heard of this before. It might be to accommodate an average driver's weight so the car is level when loaded. I could be wrong though.
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Oct 21, 2009 00:47
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CornHolio posted:You know, I've heard of this before. It might be to accommodate an average driver's weight so the car is level when loaded. I could be wrong though. e36s are like this, but I don't know if older BMWs are.
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Oct 21, 2009 00:54
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I don't think it's stock. My alignment guy noticed it when I brought it for a touch-up after I put the new struts in, and it was still pulling to the right and shaking between 60-72 mph. He said my alignment was perfect*, but pointed out the difference which I'd never noticed before. * he was doing a manual non-computer alignment. It probably still needs to be adjusted but it won't account for the spacing differences, so I figured I'd take a whack at figuring out what that is before spending cash on a real alignment. CornHolio posted:You know, I've heard of this before. It might be to accommodate an average driver's weight so the car is level when loaded. I could be wrong though. If I'm understanding you right, its not ride height that's different. Let me try a handy ascii diagram. [<---O--->] (presumed normal) [<--O---->] (exaggerated difference in my car) [ = well (toward rear of car] <-- = spacing O = Wheel ] = to front of car. Clockwork Sputnik fucked around with this message at 01:25 on Oct 21, 2009 |
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Oct 21, 2009 01:21
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It's definitely not normal on any BMW. I would guess either subframe or frame rail damage. Has the car been in an accident?
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Oct 21, 2009 01:48
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peterjmatt posted:It's definitely not normal on any BMW. I would guess either subframe or frame rail damage. Has the car been in an accident? No known accidents, frame is straight, but those little tow-eyes underneath have been bent to all hell, so the PO could have clipped a curb or speed bump. Do you know the key points on the subframe to check for damage that might not be obvious?
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Oct 21, 2009 02:47
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Clockwork Sputnik posted:No known accidents, frame is straight, but those little tow-eyes underneath have been bent to all hell, so the PO could have clipped a curb or speed bump. Do you know the key points on the subframe to check for damage that might not be obvious? I'd just grab a metal ruler and start comparing measurements side to side. It may not be visibly bent. I had an e46 in my stall with the exact same issue once (driver's wheel pushed back in the well about an inch). We ended up replacing the strut and control arm and reshaping the top of the strut tower (they mushroom easily) and the wheel was still off. So we figured, oh well, the subframe must be bent so we put a new front subframe in, only to find that one of the bolts didn't line up. Turned out one of the front frame rails had been bent a small amount. The car ended up getting cut apart and straightened on a frame jig. This is not necessarily the case with your car, it's just an illustration that serious damage isn't always apparent even to trained observers. We had half the techs in the shop looking at that car and no one ever suspected how bad it was. In your case, if it's not affecting the driveability or tire wear I'd probably ignore it. There's no way this is going to end up being an easy fix.
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Oct 21, 2009 03:07
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EDIT: Nevermind misunderstood. How does the tire wear look compared to the other side?
Lowclock fucked around with this message at 07:55 on Oct 21, 2009 |
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Oct 21, 2009 07:50
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peterjmatt posted:and reshaping the top of the strut tower (they mushroom easily) Isn't this a problem that has been pervasive over the entire BMW line for a while now? Are there anything you can do to prevent this? ie. strut bar, or those BMW parts that are made to reinforce it? Do those actually work?
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Oct 21, 2009 14:38
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It's only really a problem for e36 (and probably e46) but there are factory reinforcement plates which came on 96+ m3's. Camber plates and strut tower braces help too.
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Oct 21, 2009 15:11
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BraveUlysses posted:...there are factory reinforcement plates which came on 96+ m3's. 31-31-2-489-795-M9 - $5.75 at Pelican Parts. Cheap, easy to install, and good insurance against major body damage. I wouldn't drive an E36 without them.
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Oct 21, 2009 16:21
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Actually I've got a pair that I'll give to anyone who wants them (just cover shipping).
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Oct 21, 2009 17:16
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BraveUlysses posted:Actually I've got a pair that I'll give to anyone who wants them (just cover shipping). DIBS! You can PM me or email me my user name at gmail.
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Oct 21, 2009 17:28
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^^^I thought you had an e30?
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Oct 21, 2009 19:35
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So, as I mentioned earlier, my car spontaneously opened the windows and sunroof on me overnight. In some random internet searches, I found that this might not be my fault--apparently a failing control module of some sort will open windows and sunroof randomly. Anyone have any idea how to try and pin that one down?
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Oct 21, 2009 20:03
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BraveUlysses posted:^^^I thought you had an e30? I have one of those too.  It got totalled a few weeks ago, however, and I bought an E36 with the settlement. I kept the E30 and it's going to be turned into a racer, hopefully at LeMons.
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Oct 21, 2009 20:26
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I hope this is kosher, i've looked all over the internet but I wanted to get real human being answers so I thought i'd check out AI. My mother has a '99 BMW M3 Roadster and just recently decided to look into selling it and i'm trying to help her find out how much it's worth by gathering different figures. It has roughly 30,000 miles on it, garage kept and is pretty loaded with extra features from BMW (nothing aftermarket). Can anyone provide me with a rough ballpark? thanks in advance
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Oct 21, 2009 20:57
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ShowTime posted:I hope this is kosher, i've looked all over the internet but I wanted to get real human being answers so I thought i'd check out AI. $16k - $20k depending on your buyer. Edit: pics would help. Also, is it a convertible M3 or is it a M Roadster?
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Oct 21, 2009 20:59
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wwb posted:So, as I mentioned earlier, my car spontaneously opened the windows and sunroof on me overnight. In some random internet searches, I found that this might not be my fault--apparently a failing control module of some sort will open windows and sunroof randomly. Anyone have any idea how to try and pin that one down? If it's a control module it'd be the GM (also called a ZKE), but that's a very strange way for it to fail. Usually when the central locking relay in the GM goes, it won't unlock the doors at all. I've never seen one give a constant unlock signal, which is the only way it could have tripped your windows and sunroof.
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Oct 22, 2009 02:34
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BMW nerds, I need diesel advice. I want to put a decent diesel engine in a volvo 240, complete with manual box & was wondering about BMW's offerings. I'm after about 200ftlb torque, nothing monstrous, bonus points for a simple electrical job - any particular engine come to mind?
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Oct 22, 2009 16:43
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Cakefool posted:BMW nerds, I need diesel advice. Cummins 4bt? Errr... BMW diesels in the US are ultra rare until the new TT unit in the 335d/X5 3.5d, and I don't think that meets your criteria. Where are you located?
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Oct 22, 2009 17:02
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peterjmatt posted:If it's a control module it'd be the GM (also called a ZKE), but that's a very strange way for it to fail. Usually when the central locking relay in the GM goes, it won't unlock the doors at all. I've never seen one give a constant unlock signal, which is the only way it could have tripped your windows and sunroof. Thanks. Finally got car back, ran a test or two. Yes, superior german radio waves will penetrate 2 layers of drywall and 5" of brick. Anyone in DC have a carsoft setup we could use to reset my keys so they can't open windows?
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Oct 22, 2009 17:09
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My sunroof in my E36 crapped out on me last night. I had it in the vent position and when I closed it the lid only went down on one side and the liner retracted about halfway back. The motor started slipping gears inside. I worked with the manual tool for a bit and got the lid down, but the headliner is still only about 3/4 of the way closed. Has anyone dealt with this? The other DIY instructions regarding sunroof repair deal with the lifters on the lid. While that may be the issue that started it, it doesn't explain why my liner won't close all the way. Help me, BMW thread!
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Oct 22, 2009 17:16
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Cakefool posted:BMW nerds, I need diesel advice. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BMW_M51 A peugeot/citroen XUD9TE (1.9td) would be a cheap alternative, not as powerfull but just meets your requirements. Most applications are FWD but the LDV pilot van used an XUD engine with RWD. I got an engine for £150 for my old ZX. Headgaskets are the only weak point I know of. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PSA_XUD
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Oct 22, 2009 18:26
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miklm posted:Cummins 4bt? UK, there's a shitton of complete diesel engines on Ebay, 325tds, 120d, budget wise I'd probably not want to dump more than 2-3 times  the purchase price into the engine so if I can get an engine/gearbox for less than a grand that'd be dandy.
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Oct 22, 2009 18:46
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Cakefool posted:BMW nerds, I need diesel advice. In the US you have pretty much one option, the M21 It's the diesel version of the M20 and came to the US with a turbo strapped to it. I have seen one or two with full engines kicking around in my local pull-a-part. Swap the turbo to something slightly larger, up the boost, get an exhaust that's worth a drat and you should have 200ft-lb+ for <$1000 into an engine. Edit: ah, you're in the UK, in that case finding an M21 and some performance parts for it should be a hell of a lot easier. Doctor Grape Ape fucked around with this message at 19:32 on Oct 22, 2009 |
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Oct 22, 2009 19:23
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I've noticed my 325tds has quite a lean to the drivers side. Anythis in particular I should check for in the suspension? Both the front and back are lower. As far as I know suspension is standard and original, and it has 148,000 miles on it. Low side, note how low the back wheel looks. There isn't anything heavy in the boot.  Gangsta lean  Back wheel, low side.  Back wheel, high side.
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Oct 22, 2009 21:18
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I dunno but man I like those wheels.
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Oct 22, 2009 21:26
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CornHolio posted:I dunno but man I like those wheels.  Click here for the full 800x435 image.
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Oct 22, 2009 21:43
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:In the US you have pretty much one option, the M21 It's the diesel version of the M20 and came to the US with a turbo strapped to it. I have seen one or two with full engines kicking around in my local pull-a-part. E28, E30, E34, gotcha, will have a look.
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Oct 22, 2009 22:43
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Cakefool posted:E28, E30, E34, gotcha, will have a look. Another non-bmw engine but mkiv VW Golf era tdi's are pretty sweet, but I don't know what this issues of putting one in a in Volvo would be but i'm pretty sure I saw a Caterham with a Audi tdi engine in Practical Performance cars a year or so back. stump fucked around with this message at 23:40 on Oct 22, 2009 |
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Oct 22, 2009 23:38
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McMadCow posted:My sunroof in my E36 crapped out on me last night. I had it in the vent position and when I closed it the lid only went down on one side and the liner retracted about halfway back. The motor started slipping gears inside. This happened to me. I ended up rebuilding the entire sunroof cartridge from scratch. Don't do this. Instead, buy a used sunroof for $100, transplant the metal panel and interior panel, and get a new motor as well. It is a HUMONGOUS BITCH and you will have to remove the headliner and everything. The sunroof mechanism is a complete piece of poo poo in these cars.
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Oct 23, 2009 02:07
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:In the US you have pretty much one option, the M21 It's the diesel version of the M20 and came to the US with a turbo strapped to it. I have seen one or two with full engines kicking around in my local pull-a-part. Ha...I now am on a hunt for a diesel Mark VII. I was looking for a Mark VIII when I ended up impulse buying my E46, so getting my hands on a Mark VII with a BMW engine stuck in it from the factory just seems right, no matter how slow it would be.
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Oct 23, 2009 02:10
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stump posted:For what its worth I don't think I've ever seen an M21 diesel BMW. I think they are pretty rare in the UK. Alright, so what am I looking for? 
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Oct 23, 2009 13:57
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Pissingintowind posted:This happened to me. I ended up rebuilding the entire sunroof cartridge from scratch. Don't do this. Instead, buy a used sunroof for $100, transplant the metal panel and interior panel, and get a new motor as well. It is a HUMONGOUS BITCH and you will have to remove the headliner and everything. The sunroof mechanism is a complete piece of poo poo in these cars. Oh man, that's what I was afraid of. I use the sunroof all the time. As long as it isn't raining, it's open. Guess not for a while... 
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Oct 24, 2009 00:05
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McMadCow posted:Oh man, that's what I was afraid of. I use the sunroof all the time. As long as it isn't raining, it's open. Guess not for a while... Where do you live? Honestly, at this point after having spent so much time with it, I'd probably be able to help you out pretty easily if you live anywhere near New Brunswick, NJ.
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Oct 24, 2009 00:17
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Any suggestions for floor mats for an E46 sedan? The velcro things ripped out of both of my front mats and I prefer a thicker rubber mat anyways (especially as an Ohio winter approaches), so I'm in the market.
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Oct 24, 2009 00:18
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Pissingintowind posted:Where do you live? Honestly, at this point after having spent so much time with it, I'd probably be able to help you out pretty easily if you live anywhere near New Brunswick, NJ. Wow, thanks for the offer! Unfortunately though, I'm in San Francisco, so just about as far away as we can possibly be. Oh well, the weather is still nice here... I can start tinkering with it...
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Oct 24, 2009 00:34
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I got a good car joke Question -"Whats the difference between people who drive BMW's and Toyotas" Answer- all the people who drive BMW's are yuppies, and olny half of the people who drive toyota's are
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Oct 24, 2009 01:04
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