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Sockser posted:I want to make one of these expensive-rear end dog beds like so: For our senior project we had to make a contraption that looked sorta like a stretcher on wheels (it was a terribly dumb project). We needed a fabric that was UV and water resistant because it would be used outdoors, plus it needed to support the weight of a 250lb person. The fabric we settled on is called Sunbrella, it is used to make awnings and outdoor furniture. It was very durable and held up to our weight requirements.
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Oct 15, 2009 09:22
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I'm getting to know furnaces, hot water and heating a bit close and have a few questions. This is my gas inlet pipe. What do the two devices on it do? I believe the upper one is a pressure regulator - is this right? What about the lower one?  Click here for the full 1536x2048 image. This is some sort of regulator I see a lot on water pipes. What does it do? Limit flow? What do the red and blue... thingies on it do? What about the big black thingy?  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. This device sits on the pipe leading from the cold water inlet to the closed loop of heated water going through the furnace and boiler (cold water comes in from the right and ends up in the input pipe of the furnace). What is it for?  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. The cold water inlet for the boiler has this black-capped device jutting out of it. What is this for?  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. Here are some controls of the furnace. What do the buttons/dials seem to be for?  Click here for the full 1852x823 image. Here is the info plate of the furnace, just in case.  Click here for the full 1536x2048 image. The gas igniter/whateveritis has two buttons on it. What do they do?  Click here for the full 1732x989 image. And just before the gas pipe enters the igniter/whatever, it goes through this device. What is this for?  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. This pipe connects the furnace input and output pipes and has a pump and some sort of regulator on it. What is this pipe for? What purpose does it serve? Some sort of warmup loop for the furnace?  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. And last, a general question about the operation of hydronic water and radiator temperature. I'm not sure whether what I'm seeing is normal behavior or not and I hope you can clear this up for me. The controls are set to provide heat from 05.00 to 22.00. The desired room temperature is set at 20C. There is no room temperature sensor so I have no idea whether this even has any effect. The desired radiator inlet temperature is set at 54C. The outside temperature as seen by the sensor is currently between 0C and 5C. The outside temperature cutoff for heating is set at 20C. How does the control system determine whether and how much hot water to pipe into the radiator loop? I have not been able to determine any logic behind this. The radiators are cold an hour, hot an hour. When they are cold, the circulation pump is also off. Is this intentional? I would have naively expected it to always keep the radiators hot and water circulating during the heating time period - the radiators all have control valves to adjust their flow individually, so I see no need for this on-off behavior. Does this make sense? Am I seeing normal behavior? Is this on-off behavior directed by some magic automation-optimization logic? Or am I dealing with a malfunction?
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Oct 16, 2009 17:52
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EssOEss posted:This is my gas inlet pipe. What do the two devices on it do? I believe the upper one is a pressure regulator - is this right? What about the lower one? I don't know the rest, but that bottom one appears to be a pressure operated control valve. The black thing receives air pressure (the control signal) and opens or closes the big gray valve. here's the manufacturer's webpage
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Oct 16, 2009 18:02
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So, I'm pretty sure my thermostat pre-dates my home. And it sparks sometimes. And most of the time does not turn the heater/cooler off/on anywhere near where it's set to. My home has central air, the refrigerated air compressor is outside, the furnace is above the blower in a closet inside. Is there any magic to choosing a replacement thermostat, or will pretty much any do the job? I presume it's just a matter of un-wiring the old one and wiring the new one up in its place.
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Oct 16, 2009 21:04
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Funny how all the home heating questions show up in October. I also have one! My home is heated by an old oil furnace (formerly a coal furnace, it's that old). All the radiators on the first floor heat up splendidly, but the one upstairs does not. I vented the radiator as much as it would vent, then checked the pipes for heat. It feels like at the basement level the loop that travels up to the radiator is a good heat, but either the hot water isn't making it up the story in between, or it's losing all it's heat. Any ideas on how to test this?
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Oct 16, 2009 21:18
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Dragyn posted:Funny how all the home heating questions show up in October. What do you mean by vented? Did water come out? If so, just keep doing that, while the system is running, and see if you're getting hot water. If no water is coming out when you're bleeding the unit, then you've got a flow problem somewhere.
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Oct 16, 2009 23:39
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monkeybounce posted:What do you mean by vented? Did water come out? If so, just keep doing that, while the system is running, and see if you're getting hot water. If no water is coming out when you're bleeding the unit, then you've got a flow problem somewhere. By venting, I mean bleeding, and no, no water. Today it seems the base of the radiator warms up a bit, but not the top.
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Oct 17, 2009 02:46
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Vaporware posted:I don't know the rest, but that bottom one appears to be a pressure operated control valve. The black thing receives air pressure (the control signal) and opens or closes the big gray valve. Na, that looks like a meter, that white line should trace out to a meter reader on the outside of your house somewhere. Second might be an earth quake valve?
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Oct 17, 2009 03:04
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Aha! Stupid me, I should have taken a look at where the connection from the lower device leads to in the first place. It goes to a gas detector! So it's indeed a control valve for automatic shut-off when a leak is detected! The upper one can't be an earthquake vale - I don't live in an earthquake zone, so we don't use any earthquake equipment at all.
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Oct 17, 2009 09:00
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Dragyn posted:By venting, I mean bleeding, and no, no water. Today it seems the base of the radiator warms up a bit, but not the top. If you're bleeding and neither water nor air comes out, there's either a blockage somewhere or, depending on how the system is designed, there's not enough water in the system to fill the pipes and radiators all the way up - the system is almost certainly pressurized so something should always come out when you open the bleed valve.
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Oct 17, 2009 09:05
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Dragyn posted:By venting, I mean bleeding, and no, no water. Today it seems the base of the radiator warms up a bit, but not the top. Seems you had a radiator full of air & bled some out, try again? My inlaws had a new central heating system fitted last year & had the same problem, eventually tracked to the main pipe that went upstairs - there was a ball/restrictor-valve in a slightly thicker piece of pipe designed to work somehow with the old system but it just restricted flow upstairs with the new system. Replaced this with straight pipe& fixed the issue, might be relevant?
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Oct 17, 2009 14:46
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So I thought I'd ask here first before making a thread and asking. We bought a new house this summer and got a great deal on it. Part of the allure was the massive basement that is framed in but not finished. We have the framing for an office with large closet, a central room with doors to a patio and then a room that has been framed to have a small kitchenette small living room and a bath. The "problem" is that it is so much room, I'm afraid we wouldn't be utilizing the space effectively if we just slapped up some drywall and called it good. So my question is: What professional should I get to help me out. I need someone whose job it is to crystallize what we want our space to do and then give us a design plan we can follow or give to a contractor. Is that an architect? An interior planner? Or an interior designer? I mean the framing is there..we may want to rearrange one room worth of framing but not the whole thing. So whose help do I need?
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Oct 18, 2009 16:16
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EssOEss posted:If you're bleeding and neither water nor air comes out, there's either a blockage somewhere or, depending on how the system is designed, there's not enough water in the system to fill the pipes and radiators all the way up - the system is almost certainly pressurized so something should always come out when you open the bleed valve. It bleeds air for a bit (I've bled it maybe 10 times) but never water. Cakefool posted:My inlaws had a new central heating system fitted last year & had the same problem, eventually tracked to the main pipe that went upstairs - there was a ball/restrictor-valve in a slightly thicker piece of pipe designed to work somehow with the old system but it just restricted flow upstairs with the new system. Replaced this with straight pipe& fixed the issue, might be relevant?
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Oct 18, 2009 18:21
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Whats wrong with my gas heater? Its a Rheem Criterion II It is only a couple of years old. It doesn't use a pilot light. When I set the thermostat for heat and pull the panel off, I see three lights start to come on sequentially. One is for power, the other gas. The third light says "fire" and it never comes on. There is no gas smell at all, and I made sure the little switch in there is set to "on". I also hear a slight humming noise. Written in big letters all over the place are warnings against trying to manually light the pilot. 2 More things that may be helpful: I haven't used the heater in 6 months or so, because it is warm here in the South. I left it on for a few hours last night to see what happened. My smoke alarm went off. I couldn't smell any smoke anywhere and no other alarms went off. The alarm is about 25 years old and has some crappy looking wiring, I think it may be unrelated. (fake edit) My wife informed me that the alarm is going off because she left our plastic cutting board in the oven last night, and now every time she uses the oven the little remnants in there smoke. Wonderful!
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Oct 18, 2009 22:08
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is the gas turned off to the furnace?
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Oct 19, 2009 00:19
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Can anyone tell me about Shellacking? I've seen things covered in what almost seems like an 1" of some kind of perfectly clear coating, that seemed to be some what tough. Like a bar top with coins and poo poo on it. What exactly is the process of doing this and what do I buy for the materials?
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Oct 19, 2009 01:17
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What you're thinking of is probably a clear epoxy.
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Oct 19, 2009 06:17
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so i wake my rear end up early for work and i was kind of having problems with this shower knob earlier in the week, i go to turn on the water and nothing comes out on the cold side of the knob, i get to the middle and the water is hot as gently caress, not hot enough to scald but enough to make the shower uncomfortable. how would i go about fixing this without ripping out the whole shower? pics below http://www.wewtgaming.com/shower/ joozy fucked around with this message at 21:18 on Oct 22, 2009 |
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Oct 19, 2009 09:37
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ease posted:Can anyone tell me about Shellacking? Like the guy above said, it's a clear epoxy resin. You can find resin coating kits in the finishing section of Home Depot, Lowes, etc. The systems I've used just consisted of a bottle of resin and a bottle of hardener that you mix together in equal portions. Dump the mixture out over whatever you want to coat and it'll settle out into an even coat and harden over night. The stuff is really thick and syrupy when it's still liquid, so it tends to trap a lot of air bubbles when you're mixing it. If you run a blowtorch flame lightly, quickly, across the surface of your resin coat, it'll bring a lot of the bubbles to the top where they pop.
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Oct 21, 2009 04:24
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Dragyn posted:Funny how all the home heating questions show up in October. I don't have radiant heat in my house, but I remember seeing a segment on Ask This Old House about a situation identical to yours. Basically, the air in the pressure tank near the boiler has dissolved into the water in your lines, so there's not enough water in the lines any more. What you need to do is drain the lines, replace the pressure tank with a bladder-style tank, then refill the lines. I can't find the article on their website right now, but that's all you should have to do.
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Oct 21, 2009 13:13
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It's been a long time since I've done some drafting and now I've come to some parts with what appear to be custom thread markings. UNC/F/EF is usually what I deal with. I can't find anything to tell me what they are for certain. code:This is one of the drawings it is listed on https://wi.somethingawful.com/51/51b6275e929e8aedc100e3ee55343c335354f6c8.jpg UPDATE: I now believe it to be a chamfer marking. as there are 4 edges to the cylinder, 2 inside ends and the 2 outside edges, 4X .04 X 21° means 4 .04" long chamfers at 21°. It explains the drawing's lack of detailed thread work, there isn't any. Roumba fucked around with this message at 06:09 on Oct 22, 2009 |
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Oct 22, 2009 00:15
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I'm stuck here. Rather, my father in law is stuck. I bought a MPI 422 monitor off of craigslist. The monitor is run off of #1 heating oil, and heats up just fine after replacing the heat sensing rod. The blower fan, however, does not turn on and the monitor shuts down. After he went to town with a multimeter, he can't track down the source of the problem. Question #1-Does anybody know what the problem could be off hand? Question #2-Does anyone have/know where to procure a wiring diagram for this Goddamned thing? I can't find anything on the MPI site or on  . Any help would be appreciated. It's getting cold in New England.
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Oct 23, 2009 19:55
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I'm making a costume that will involve bleaching, dying and possibly painting spandex. The bleach/dye part of the process I'm not too worried about but I had some concerns about the paint: if I use regular fabric paint and put it on a modelform while I'm painting, is that going to be enough to avoid cracking/warping, or is that still going to be a problem? If I want to make sure it's machine washable, what's the best kind of paint to use, and/or should I use any special kind of sealant? Also, is there a 'fabric safe' medium I can mix regular acrylic paint with to turn it into fabric paint?
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Oct 24, 2009 23:05
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joozy posted:how would i go about fixing this without ripping out the whole shower? First, turn off at least the water to that faucet, if not the whole house. Underneath the knob, there is a little screw to remove it. Remove that. Remove the decorative chrome ring. THEN... You should be able to remove the valve assembly with a wrench. Clean and/or replace that. Video
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Oct 26, 2009 04:29
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etard knievel posted:I'm making a costume that will involve bleaching, dying and possibly painting spandex. The bleach/dye part of the process I'm not too worried about but I had some concerns about the paint: if I use regular fabric paint and put it on a modelform while I'm painting, is that going to be enough to avoid cracking/warping, or is that still going to be a problem? If I want to make sure it's machine washable, what's the best kind of paint to use, and/or should I use any special kind of sealant? Also, is there a 'fabric safe' medium I can mix regular acrylic paint with to turn it into fabric paint? This will never look like you want it to, try instead finding a fabric dye specifically for spandex. A haberdashers or fabric shop may be able to help you out here.
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Oct 26, 2009 20:03
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n/t, other than that was an embarrassingly simple solution. 
STFU Pumpkinhead fucked around with this message at 23:28 on Oct 26, 2009 |
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Oct 26, 2009 21:51
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What do I need to get to hang a picture that has this on the back of it:
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Oct 26, 2009 23:21
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ZeeBoi posted:What do I need to get to hang a picture that has this on the back of it: A nail. Feel inside that slot, there should be a slight lip along the top edge. The reason it's so long is so you can level the picture.
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Oct 26, 2009 23:31
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ZeeBoi posted:What do I need to get to hang a picture that has this on the back of it: I hate those. Feel inside the groove, there should be a small lip. I either use a drywall screw or a large headed nail. Just make sure whatever you use can slide in the groove. Find where you want your picture to hang. Make a light mark at the top. Measure the back of the picture from the top to the center of the groove. Transfer that measurement from the mark you made down. That will give you the line for your screws/nails. Measure the length of the groove and transfer that to your wall where you just made the mark. Put in a nail and hook the picture on it. Slide it all the way to the end and let it hang crooked. Put in your second nail, hook the picture on it and slide it around to center. You could also just use one nail, but you'll be forever leveling the picture as it slides back and forth. code:code:code:
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Oct 26, 2009 23:33
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Cool, thanks.  I'm heading to Home Depot tomorrow so it's good to know what I'm looking for.
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Oct 26, 2009 23:54
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Went to install a new toilet, and the drain is too close to the wall by...about .75" I'm willing to measure, mark, and carve away part of my wall to fit the toilet in. I really want this toilet in this bathroom. I can't help thinking there's a better way though.
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Oct 27, 2009 03:49
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Local Yokel posted:Went to install a new toilet, and the drain is too close to the wall by...about .75" Have you tried to see if you can loosen the flange a bit to get some play? Just make sure horn fits in hole and is not obstructing... e: meant loosen the mounting screws in the flange. Usually they are in slots that allow a little movement as rough in's are normally 10-12-14" Flay Minion fucked around with this message at 04:00 on Oct 27, 2009 |
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Oct 27, 2009 03:56
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ZeeBoi posted:Cool, thanks. FYI: I wouldn't do it monkeybounce's method. If you don't put in the two nails exactly level, the picture will always be crooked, and the correct hole is now so close to the existing hole that you can't hang the picture without first patching the old hole first, then there's the outside chance that putting the nail in the second time will just make the patch crumble.
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Oct 27, 2009 06:03
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kid sinister posted:FYI: I wouldn't do it monkeybounce's method. If you don't put in the two nails exactly level, the picture will always be crooked, and the correct hole is now so close to the existing hole that you can't hang the picture without first patching the old hole first, then there's the outside chance that putting the nail in the second time will just make the patch crumble. Good point, I did forget to mention leveling the nails. I guess I kind of figured it would be a given. I've never had a problem doing it this way, I just put the first nail in, put a small picture level on it, put the second nail under the level and find my line. The problem is, there's no good way at hanging that kind of frame/plaque. Alternatively, I guess you could get some picture hangers from Home Depot and add them to the back, but I don't think that material will take nails well. Kid Sinister: How would you go about doing this? VVVV Leveling the two nails. I just kind of assumed he would think "oh, I have to make sure the second nail lines up with the first" monkeybounce fucked around with this message at 16:18 on Oct 27, 2009 |
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Oct 27, 2009 16:12
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monkeybounce posted:Good point, I did forget to mention leveling the nails. I guess I kind of figured it would be a given. What, making 2 nails level or hanging the picture?
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Oct 27, 2009 16:16
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Flay Minion posted:Have you tried to see if you can loosen the flange a bit to get some play? Just make sure horn fits in hole and is not obstructing... I'll check it out. Unfortunately, I've never seen the flange, as there's a layer of cement or thinset over it (not my work). I need to get to it anyway though, to place longer screws. Looks like I've got some delicate work ahead with the dremel and rotozip.
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Oct 27, 2009 16:50
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Local Yokel posted:I'll check it out. Unfortunately, I've never seen the flange, as there's a layer of cement or thinset over it (not my work). I need to get to it anyway though, to place longer screws. Looks like I've got some delicate work ahead with the dremel and rotozip. You probably could use an offset flange too - http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/bath/projects/remod_w1/toilet/new_1/flange_offset.htm
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Oct 28, 2009 16:38
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monkeybounce posted:VVVV Leveling the two nails. I just kind of assumed he would think "oh, I have to make sure the second nail lines up with the first" For 2 nails that close together, I wouldn't even use 2 nails, especially when 1 would suffice. If you're talking far apart, then any kind of level would be fine.
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Oct 29, 2009 03:56
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So, whilst dying my hair black tonight, I covered the ENTIRE bathtub in dye residue as I desperately tried to scrub the dye out of my hair. I spent about an hour in there with the Simple Green and a scrubber, and I got almost all of it off. Now there is just a big line of brown from the back of the tub to the drain. Do you goons know of something more magical than Simple Green to take it off? Also as a side note, I forgot I had sprayed it in my sink and now its a lovely color of robin's egg blue, fixable? Or have I permanently colored my sink too? I feel like such a winner.
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Oct 30, 2009 06:16
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I would try bleach.
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Nov 1, 2009 16:44
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