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Scarf
Jun 24, 2005

On sight

scuz posted:

Neato! I thought they were hard to come by, but that store has had that one for a long time. I'll go check it out one of these days. I'm glad someone screwed wheels on to the side, though; 140 pounds is nothin to sneeze at.

Does it really sound that much better than the slant-back?

I don't think it necessarily has to do with the actual shape of the cab, but more so with how they were built and the materials used during the eras before they started the slant.

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BobMcFartsens
Dec 31, 2005

Sitting on a park bench

scuz posted:

If you're feeling brave you can open up the amp and take the plug out that way.

Yeah I've been hoping to not have to do that, as I am not brave enough to do that.

It might just come down to it though.

DrChu
May 14, 2002

Jan posted:

Except a non-chromatic tuner is just going to fart out complaining this isn't the note it's looking for. :haw:
The 12th fret harmonic will be the note its looking for.

Schatten
Jul 7, 2002

Das ist nicht meine
schnellen Rennwagen

Scarf posted:

Only downside to the boss TU-2 or any stomp-tuner is that the accuracy is usually worse than a nice rackmount unit. The TU-2 is accurate to +/- 3 cent where as my Sabine RT-7100 rack tuner is down to +/- 1 cent.

Good to know. Any thoughts on the Peterson Strobe Tuner? I've used the flips on stage side. Have not used one of their pedals.

There's also this option for the iPhone/iPod touch: http://www.petersontuners.com/index.cfm?category=150&page=1
9.99 for the app, 12.99 for the cable. Still cheaper than a cheap tuner.

Schatten
Jul 7, 2002

Das ist nicht meine
schnellen Rennwagen
Interesting comparison: Strobo Stomp II VS Turbo Tuner ST-200 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8bY9H7ec6_0

scuz
Aug 29, 2003

You can't be angry ALL the time!




Fun Shoe

BobMcFartsens posted:

Yeah I've been hoping to not have to do that, as I am not brave enough to do that.

It might just come down to it though.
If you've got a camera we can probably walk you through it :)

Schatten posted:

Interesting comparison: Strobo Stomp II VS Turbo Tuner ST-200 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8bY9H7ec6_0
That motherfucker's got some grounding issues on his guitar.

The ST-200 is holy-poo poo fast.

scuz fucked around with this message at 22:01 on Oct 27, 2009

Walked
Apr 14, 2003

So I've got my bass and all that together. Any tips for making sure I dont get a bad instructor? Just want to be sure I dont get a washout who doesnt care - any scouting tips on that?

Scarf
Jun 24, 2005

On sight

Walked posted:

So I've got my bass and all that together. Any tips for making sure I dont get a bad instructor? Just want to be sure I dont get a washout who doesnt care - any scouting tips on that?

Ask him if he plays upright and can teach you to sight-read.

Schatten
Jul 7, 2002

Das ist nicht meine
schnellen Rennwagen
I usually worry about personality conflicts myself.

Dyna Soar
Nov 30, 2006

Walked posted:

So I've got my bass and all that together. Any tips for making sure I dont get a bad instructor? Just want to be sure I dont get a washout who doesnt care - any scouting tips on that?

What kind of stuff do you want to play? I took a few classes when I started playing again a few years ago, and the teacher just wanted me to learn how to sight read and play jazz. I'm not really interested in that at all, just wanna learn the basics and go by myself from there. If you want to become a "real" musician you should probably find a licensed teacher or go to a school of some sort. If you just want to learn the basics and rock out, any wash out will do. Actually if you want to just learn the basics, the internet is pretty handy.

http://www.studybass.com/lessons/basics/ -good lessons and some theory
http://www.ehow.com/videos-on_2651_play-bass-guitar-beginner-lessons.html -good how-to videos for beginners.

As for personality clashes, that's kind of impossible to know before hand. My teacher was a creepy old jazz dude who lived with a teenage thai boy (they weren't related) and taught in this run down apartment with no furniture, rugs or anything. drat good bassist but creepy as gently caress. He also kept all of his money in a jar, there must have been at least 10k in it.

Remember to practice daily. Seriously, every day at least an hour. It's boring but you'll thank yourself later.

History Comes Inside!
Nov 20, 2004




DrChu posted:

The 12th fret harmonic will be the note its looking for.

This worked, sweet. Now I can start on the path to fiddling around like a retard forever until finally getting sick of being terrible and throwing the thing out a window bass glory!

I'll still be looking at buying one of the other tuners suggested though, thanks for all the advice.

Walked
Apr 14, 2003

Dyna Soar posted:

What kind of stuff do you want to play? I took a few classes when I started playing again a few years ago, and the teacher just wanted me to learn how to sight read and play jazz. I'm not really interested in that at all, just wanna learn the basics and go by myself from there. If you want to become a "real" musician you should probably find a licensed teacher or go to a school of some sort. If you just want to learn the basics and rock out, any wash out will do. Actually if you want to just learn the basics, the internet is pretty handy.

http://www.studybass.com/lessons/basics/ -good lessons and some theory
http://www.ehow.com/videos-on_2651_play-bass-guitar-beginner-lessons.html -good how-to videos for beginners.

As for personality clashes, that's kind of impossible to know before hand. My teacher was a creepy old jazz dude who lived with a teenage thai boy (they weren't related) and taught in this run down apartment with no furniture, rugs or anything. drat good bassist but creepy as gently caress. He also kept all of his money in a jar, there must have been at least 10k in it.

Remember to practice daily. Seriously, every day at least an hour. It's boring but you'll thank yourself later.


Thank you for the tips - this is helpful. Sounds good to me - I want to get a few months with an instructor to make sure I get some decent foundation, but otherwise, I'm flexible.

I appreciate the insight :)

Dyna Soar
Nov 30, 2006

Walked posted:

Thank you for the tips - this is helpful. Sounds good to me - I want to get a few months with an instructor to make sure I get some decent foundation, but otherwise, I'm flexible.

I appreciate the insight :)

Yeah getting a few lessons when you're starting is a good idea, that way you don't learn any bad habits that are really hard to unlearn later.

Oh and one thing I haven't heard from anyone but what has helped me a lot: flex your fingers. Every day, a couple of time just pull them back a bit for 15 seconds and release. Flex your wrist too, just bend it back a bit for 15 seconds and release. Repeat a couple of times per day, and expecially before and after you play. That way you minimize the risk of getting strain trauma.

ps. pickstyle is for losers

scuz
Aug 29, 2003

You can't be angry ALL the time!




Fun Shoe

Dyna Soar posted:

ps. pickstyle is for losers
ps. ur a luser

Bourbon
Sep 17, 2006

Dyna Soar posted:

ps. pickstyle is for losers
:eng101: A truly versatile bassist can play with either style!

NarkyBark
Dec 7, 2003

one funky chicken
Random: does using non-coated strings on a fretless eat the poo poo out of the fretboard?

Bourbon
Sep 17, 2006

Roundwound strings will usually eat up the fretboard, yeah. Flatwounds aren't necessarily coated but they're safe for unfretted boards.

Scarf
Jun 24, 2005

On sight

Bourbon posted:

Roundwound strings will usually eat up the fretboard, yeah. Flatwounds aren't necessarily coated but they're safe for unfretted boards.

Depends on if its Nickel or Stainless, and the material of the fretboard. Rosewood is the softest so it's at the greatest risk. Maple and Ebony are hard enough to where you probably don't have to worry about it.

Edit: That is, if you're using Nickels. I'd never try Stainless on a fretless bass, regardless of the wood used for the fretboard.

Scarf fucked around with this message at 23:36 on Oct 28, 2009

dancehall
Sep 28, 2001

You say you want a revolution

Dyna Soar posted:

ps. pickstyle is for losers

saying this is a dead giveaway that you're a n00b

SUSE Creamcheese
Apr 11, 2007

Scarf posted:

Depends on if its Nickel or Stainless, and the material of the fretboard. Rosewood is the softest so it's at the greatest risk. Maple and Ebony are hard enough to where you probably don't have to worry about it.

Edit: That is, if you're using Nickels. I'd never try Stainless on a fretless bass, regardless of the wood used for the fretboard.

e: posting late at night doesn't make me a metallurgist

I have a friend who plays with a very forceful right-hand technique, and even though he uses stainless strings on his Fender Jazz Special (fretless, of course), the rosewood fretboard doesn't show much wear. He has to have the board dressed every few years to keep it level, but that's not surprising, given that it's his main player and he gigs quite frequently. I've been using nickel-plated strings on my Skjold fretless 6 since day 1, and while there are some minor marks on the (ebony) board, there's really no wear to speak of.

SUSE Creamcheese fucked around with this message at 17:55 on Oct 29, 2009

Scarf
Jun 24, 2005

On sight

82Daion posted:

Most "nickel" strings are nickel-plated stainless steel, so I don't think that you'd see that much of a difference between the two as far as fretboard wear is concerned.

I have a friend who plays with a very forceful right-hand technique, and even though he uses stainless strings on his Fender Jazz Special (fretless, of course), the fretboard doesn't show much wear. He has to have the board dressed every few years to keep it level, but that's not surprising, given that it's his main player and he gigs quite frequently. I've been using nickel-plated stainless strings on my Skjold fretless 6 since day 1, and while there are some minor marks on the (ebony) board, there's really no wear to speak of.

They're not nickel-plated STAINLESS, they're just nickel-plated steel.

edit: and the stainless sure as hell wears my fingers out more...

Scarf fucked around with this message at 04:07 on Oct 29, 2009

Dyna Soar
Nov 30, 2006

dancehall posted:

saying this is a dead giveaway that you're a n00b

oh crap, busted

I've been saving money for a new bass, and I've been leaning towards a P-Bass. I could probably afford to put ~900 euros to it. My question is, is there a lot of difference between a 700€ fender p and a 1000€ one (say this, this or this)?

Geisladisk
Sep 15, 2007

Dyna Soar posted:

oh crap, busted

I've been saving money for a new bass, and I've been leaning towards a P-Bass. I could probably afford to put ~900 euros to it. My question is, is there a lot of difference between a 700€ fender p and a 1000€ one (say this, this or this)?

The only real difference is that the made in america ones are more consistently good. If you buy the made in mexico one, you will probably get a fine instrument, but it most likely won't be great (though it could be). A US fender will almost always be pretty great.

But really, I wouldn't buy a bass online; Go to a local music store and try every god drat thing they got hanging on the wall.

Edit; Don't get a P-bass, get this: http://bass-guitars.musiciansfriend.com/product/GL-L2000-Electric-Bass-Guitar?sku=510983

It's like a P-Bass, but better in every way and cheaper. The pickups and electronics on those things are loving godlike. Designed by Leo Fender after he bailed on fender.

Geisladisk fucked around with this message at 12:12 on Oct 29, 2009

Dyna Soar
Nov 30, 2006

Geisladisk posted:

The only real difference is that the made in america ones are more consistently good. If you buy the made in mexico one, you will probably get a fine instrument, but it most likely won't be great (though it could be). A US fender will almost always be pretty great.

So that's the only thing that matters as far as Fenders go?

Geisladisk posted:

But really, I wouldn't buy a bass online; Go to a local music store and try every god drat thing they got hanging on the wall.
Well here in Finland music shops often charge 10 to 20 % more than say thomann. I'll naturally go and try out the basses I'm considering to buy, but depending on how much more the shops charge I might have order it from thomann. They've got good rep and most of my friend who've ordered instruments from them haven't had any problems. I even ordered my head & cab from them and had no problems at all.

Geisladisk posted:

Edit; Don't get a P-bass, get this: http://bass-guitars.musiciansfriend.com/product/GL-L2000-Electric-Bass-Guitar?sku=510983

It's like a P-Bass, but better in every way and cheaper. The pickups and electronics on those things are loving godlike. Designed by Leo Fender after he bailed on fender.

That's cheaper than the 3k p-basses but more expensive than the 1k ones. Also I live in Finland, so importing that would be a pain in the rear end, plus I'd have to pay 30% import tax.

Here's what seems to be the same bass, priced aroud 1400 € so way over my budget. It's likely around 1600 if I manage to find one in a local shop.

Scarf
Jun 24, 2005

On sight

Geisladisk posted:

Edit; Don't get a P-bass, get this: http://bass-guitars.musiciansfriend.com/product/GL-L2000-Electric-Bass-Guitar?sku=510983

It's like a P-Bass, but better in every way and cheaper. The pickups and electronics on those things are loving godlike. Designed by Leo Fender after he bailed on fender.

G&L are great... But the only thing that sounds like a P-bass is a P-bass. So if you want that sound, that's what you need to get.

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?

Dyna Soar posted:

So that's the only thing that matters as far as Fenders go?

Well here in Finland music shops often charge 10 to 20 % more than say thomann. I'll naturally go and try out the basses I'm considering to buy, but depending on how much more the shops charge I might have order it from thomann. They've got good rep and most of my friend who've ordered instruments from them haven't had any problems. I even ordered my head & cab from them and had no problems at all.


That's cheaper than the 3k p-basses but more expensive than the 1k ones. Also I live in Finland, so importing that would be a pain in the rear end, plus I'd have to pay 30% import tax.

Here's what seems to be the same bass, priced aroud 1400 € so way over my budget. It's likely around 1600 if I manage to find one in a local shop.

For me it was cheaper to buy my stuff in England while I was there on vacation, even saved me the cost of flying there by buying there compared to buying in Sweden.

Geisladisk
Sep 15, 2007

Dyna Soar posted:

So that's the only thing that matters as far as Fenders go?

That's the only thing as far as almost all instrument companies go. The more expensive stuff will usually be made of higher quality materials, have higher quality craftmanship, and more stringent quality control. They will still be basically the same instruments. Often, however, the lower quality stuff will have some bullshit pickups or something on them.

What this means is that although most cheapo instruments will be consistently not great, every once in a while some poor underpayed chinese child in a sweatshop will do everything just right, with a batch of wood that is just perfect, and you'll end up with a instrument that is every bit as good as the premium poo poo, only possibly with worse pickups.

A friend of mine has a Squier P-bass copy that plays and sounds better than any Fender P-bass I've tried. Once he realized how good it was, he bought proper pickups for it, and now it's pretty much amazing. It's just the luck of the draw.

black_mastermind
Oct 30, 2008

Geisladisk posted:

That's the only thing as far as almost all instrument companies go. The more expensive stuff will usually be made of higher quality materials, have higher quality craftmanship, and more stringent quality control. They will still be basically the same instruments. Often, however, the lower quality stuff will have some bullshit pickups or something on them.

What this means is that although most cheapo instruments will be consistently not great, every once in a while some poor underpayed chinese child in a sweatshop will do everything just right, with a batch of wood that is just perfect, and you'll end up with a instrument that is every bit as good as the premium poo poo, only possibly with worse pickups.

A friend of mine has a Squier P-bass copy that plays and sounds better than any Fender P-bass I've tried. Once he realized how good it was, he bought proper pickups for it, and now it's pretty much amazing. It's just the luck of the draw.

I have been playing a Squier P/J that I got used a few years ago as my main bass lately. I liked how it felt so much that I replaced the pickups and it is now a really good-sounding bass. I got super lucky when I found this bass, and man was it ever cheap. I can not stress enough how important it is to go and actually play as many basses as you can. Even if you think it is ugly or if you just can't ever see yourself owning brand 'X' for whatever reason or 'nobody plays one of those in this genre' or any excuse you can come up with for not trying something out, play every bass you can possibly get your hands on! You might be surprised by what you like, or perhaps even more surprised by what you DON'T like that you were sure you would.

gotly
Oct 28, 2007
Economy-Sized
I have a stupid Crate BT220 or someshit that's in the shape of a cube. It's not that large but it's cube shape prevents me from comfortably fitting it in my car. Can anyone recommend a nice bass amp that has enough power to cause cracks in the foundation of my house yet fit in the backseat/trunk of my Lancer?

Also, I have an Ibanez SR500. It is the best bass. Ever. I don't touch any knobs on my amp or any other amp I plug it into. The range of sounds I can get by just moving around some knobs on the bass its self is astounding. I plug my bass directly into the return effects loop jack of my amp and can go from brown note to funky-spunky with a twist of the wrist.

scuz
Aug 29, 2003

You can't be angry ALL the time!




Fun Shoe
Anyone wanna recommend a good jazz bass book?

gotly posted:

Can anyone recommend a nice bass amp that has enough power to cause cracks in the foundation of my house yet fit in the backseat/trunk of my Lancer?
Talkin' combo amp or head/cab setup?

scuz fucked around with this message at 16:49 on Oct 29, 2009

gotly
Oct 28, 2007
Economy-Sized
Whatever gets her pregnant.

edit: Actually I'll probably get more flexibility with a head/cab setup, good idea.

gotly fucked around with this message at 16:50 on Oct 29, 2009

black_mastermind
Oct 30, 2008
I screwed around with one of those Ampeg micro-SVT stacks (the cute little head and 2x10 stack) at my local GC and was giggling like a schoolgirl with how good it sounded and how loud it was for its diminutive size and price.

Granted, I did not get a chance to give it hell in a band situation so I have no idea how it hangs with drums and a guitarist but it effortlessly rose above the din of a weekend afternoon at a Guitar Center, which is pretty impressive.

scuz
Aug 29, 2003

You can't be angry ALL the time!




Fun Shoe

gotly posted:

Whatever gets her pregnant.
I love this analogy :)

Anyways, small/light/loud immediately brings MarkBass to mind. Go try them out at a GuitarCenter to see if they're your cup-o-tea. I don't like MB because I play punk music and don't think their sound is aggressive enough. I roll with Gallien-Krueger because their amps are relatively compact and can produce aggressive or mellow sounds without much trouble. GK has the MB500 which is an amp that does 500w at 4 ohms and is about the size/weight of a paperback. MB has these kinds of amps as well (the LittleMark 3 [edit2: actually the F1 is smaller]). MB definitely reigns in the portable/loud realm when it comes to cabinets, however. I can't name another company off the top of my head that offers as many compact solutions as they do. Nearly every brand out there has a compact model of amp, but their cabinets never seem to shrink.

My Avatar B212N fits in the back of my wife's Accord just fine. I'm running it with a GK 800RB and it does an awesome job of shaking poo poo off of the walls in my practice space.

I'm guessing the SR500 is a 5 string? Try out a bunch of different amps/hit up harmony-central.com reviews to find out if the 210 combo you're looking at can handle the low B. edit3: It's a 4 string! My recommendation: Used GK 800RB ($350 max), Avatar B210N ($350 new) = loud, light rig that'll fit in your passenger seat. Fun part: Get an 8-ohm version of the B210N so that you can run it on the 100w output of the 800RB if you decide to get something bigger in the future to run on the 300w output. My B212N is 4-ohms and (when I'm able to afford it) I'll be getting a B210N for the 100w output.

edit: What kind of music are you playing anyway?

scuz fucked around with this message at 17:25 on Oct 29, 2009

Schatten
Jul 7, 2002

Das ist nicht meine
schnellen Rennwagen

scuz posted:

Anyways, small/light/loud immediately brings MarkBass to mind. Go try them out at a GuitarCenter to see if they're your cup-o-tea. I don't like MB because I play punk music and don't think their sound is aggressive enough.
I agree with this. They are pretty clean and pretty clear, providing the best sound of your actual bass through an amp. Only mild coloring, but there are some great sounds you can get out of them. However, if you are a pedal player, and color your sounds through various pedals, it will work fine. I have the 2x10 combo and it weighs in at 42#'s.

If I wanted to get an classic aggressive sound, I would opt for the GK, or even a Trace Elliot. I just sold the former, but still have a TE head - which is thick, meaty, but weighs a ton to haul around.



Also, I received the Ric 4003 recently and will get some better pictures soon. It is strung with 50-110's - which is quite heavy. Not sure if I'll swap them out... I'm thinking I need some DR blacks to go with the full black out bass. =D

scuz
Aug 29, 2003

You can't be angry ALL the time!




Fun Shoe

Schatten posted:

Also, I received the Ric 4003 recently and will get some better pictures soon. It is strung with 50-110's - which is quite heavy. Not sure if I'll swap them out... I'm thinking I need some DR blacks to go with the full black out bass. =D
Post that poo poo immediately! The pics that you posted earlier were okay, but I want some close-ups; that is a sexy bass, sir.

Rashomon
Jun 21, 2006

This machine kills fascists
Here's something I'm ashamed to not know, as a Fender guy -- Do P and J basses have the same neck pocket? Can you plop a J neck on a P bass, no problem?

Schatten
Jul 7, 2002

Das ist nicht meine
schnellen Rennwagen

Rashomon posted:

Here's something I'm ashamed to not know, as a Fender guy -- Do P and J basses have the same neck pocket? Can you plop a J neck on a P bass, no problem?

I have not done it, but yes, they are interchangeable.

SUSE Creamcheese
Apr 11, 2007

Scarf posted:

They're not nickel-plated STAINLESS, they're just nickel-plated steel.

edit: and the stainless sure as hell wears my fingers out more...

Sorry, don't know why on earth I thought that. I shouldn't post when I'm tired...

Anyway, I still don't think using stainless steel strings on a rosewood board would be that big a deal, as long as you don't mind having to dress the board a little more often. I'd consider trying them on my Skjold, but it's already bright enough as it is with nickel-plated strings on there.

Schatten
Jul 7, 2002

Das ist nicht meine
schnellen Rennwagen

scuz posted:

Post that poo poo immediately! The pics that you posted earlier were okay, but I want some close-ups; that is a sexy bass, sir.

done. =D
see other thread.

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Archituethis
Dec 25, 2008
...

Archituethis fucked around with this message at 01:15 on Jun 28, 2012

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