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I sent a roll of 220 C-41 out a few weeks ago via Wal-Mart's dropoff service, mostly just to see how much it costs (I've heard varying reports). Got the negatives back today - 90 cents. The place I take these to locally charges $8 for 220, and I thought that was reasonable. Walmart takes two weeks, but drat. So, if anyone else has a huge pile of expired 220 film in their freezer, there you go.
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Oct 27, 2009 03:32
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I went to Walmart and the lady there was having none of my 120 mumbo jumbo. I think I need to go back when someone else is behind the counter. I ended up taking it to Henry's and it cost something like eight bucks 
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Oct 27, 2009 03:36
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Martytoof posted:I ended up taking it to Henry's and it cost something like eight bucks Keep searching. I found a place near me that does 120 for three or four bucks if it's develop only. It takes a few days because they send it out, but it beats driving into Vancouver at rush hour. Try checking in at places like London Drugs or Shopper's Drug Mart or whatever. If they say no in person, try e-mailing them directly so you deal with whoever is the head of the photo department instead of sales drone #4 or something.
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Oct 27, 2009 03:59
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I'm in LA and it seems like only a handful of places do E6. My local place has to send it out and it's about $8-9 (120)
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Oct 27, 2009 05:01
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Score another one for goodwill. I just picked up a functional Durst M600 enlarger for 13 bucks. No lens or board but I can grab those easily enough.
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Oct 27, 2009 06:59
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w_hat posted:I'm about to start developing my own B&W at home. I'm planning on using HC-110 and pushing films pretty far. The problem I'm wondering about though is that we keep our house at 80 degrees (I live in Florida). I've got a minifridge I can dedicate to chemicals, would it be a good idea to chill my developer to 66 so it will warm up during development and even out the temperature extremes? I can't even find a time<->temp chart that goes to 80F. Are any of the other chemicals dependent on being cooler to work well? If you're going to be pushing anyways, I recommend Diafine (unless you shoot Ilford). Diafine is a two part developer that has the same result regardless of temperature at 3 minutes. It's a hot developer, so you can expect increased grain and contrast (which is why I shoot within those parameters). Another plus: Diafine is cheap and lasts a very long time (I used mine weekly for over a year before it pooped out). Otherwise, I aim for all my chemistry to be at 80 or just under. + + + BTW, if anyone is in central Houston and needs b&w developing, I do it for $5 a pop. More info at http://ditchwatertheblog.blogspot.com/2009/06/rosewater-processing-now-open-for.html.
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Oct 27, 2009 08:09
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There's a dude not too far with an Olympus 35 RD for sale, what should I reasonably expect to pay for it?
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Oct 27, 2009 18:05
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guidoanselmi posted:I'll add another question, what can I expect from expired ektachrome 64 from 1989? for posterity: 
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Oct 28, 2009 19:23
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guidoanselmi posted:for posterity: That's a lot better than I expected.
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Oct 28, 2009 23:41
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Appreciate the information posted about film brands/types, after some further research I decided to place an order which arrived today- Click here for the full 800x534 image. The Kodachrome appears to be a Euro version as the pre-paid envelope is sent to Switzerland, but I was under the impression that only 1 place in the world still processes K-14 which was in the USA (Tennessee?). Guess I'll have to email kodak and ask. I don't have fridge/freezer space so going to store these in a filing cabinet in a cold cellar (basement). Edit: turns out I post it to Switzerland who then send it to Dwayne's Photo Service http://www.kodak.com/eknec/PageQuerier.jhtml?pq-path=164/7010/6994/1095/6879&pq-locale=en_GB wickles fucked around with this message at 20:21 on Oct 29, 2009 |
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Oct 29, 2009 20:03
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I'm still kind of proud at the footprint my hometown left in the photography world. Agfa is based in Antwerp and I used to pass their factory every weekend to visit my girlfriend. Granted, they're actually not doing well at the moment but oh well. 
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Oct 29, 2009 20:27
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wickles posted:I don't have fridge/freezer space so going to store these in a filing cabinet in a cold cellar (basement). If it's damp you might want to reconsider.
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Oct 29, 2009 20:29
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Cue 1 week ago, I bought a Rollei 35s from eBay expecting a perfect working order camera. I recieved it with the shutter non functioning though after close inspection it was a simple fix. I got it working for half a roll until it failed on me a again. With no repairing experience I decided to dive head in to try and figure it out. I thought that disassembling the camera to properly figure it out wouldn't be so hard and I really should learn how to repair my own camera. Today my brain is about ready to explode having spent day and night fixing one problem after anouther due to my incompetence. Also any cosmetic value the camera once had is now thrown out the window having scratched and bent the hell out of it. Everytime one peice breaks I have to dissasemble further only to cause anouther part of the mechanics to stop working. It really is disheartening since I had bought the camera as a birthday gift to my self with dreams of taking the camera out to venice and allowing me to change my approach to my photography. I can say I have gained a great appreciation for the complex inner workings of the camera. I could honestly say that if I had the chance to start over with all the information I have now I would have been able to fix my original problem in just a few hours.
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Oct 30, 2009 02:24
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Tigertron posted:Cue 1 week ago, I bought a Rollei 35s from eBay expecting a perfect working order camera. I recieved it with the shutter non functioning though after close inspection it was a simple fix. I got it working for half a roll until it failed on me a again. With no repairing experience I decided to dive head in to try and figure it out. I used to try and repair stuff, now I just send it back unless it's something I'm confident I can handle on my own or at least fail at and not leave a trace. I just got a Super Ikonta with a foggy viewfinder that is also fogging film. The VF I could probably handle on my own but would involve messing with the leather, so I left it as is. As for the film, the first 3-4 shots are totally opaque, I can barely make out the next 3 or so, and the rest come out normal. I'm pretty sure it's not my loading/developing techniques, the guy selling it actually knows about and has used the camera and says it should be fine, but I'm probably going to send it back unless I get any new info. Ebay's far from perfect (still a necessary evil at best) but they've gotten a lot better at holding sellers accountable. A couple years ago a seller most likely would have told me to gently caress off and pocketed my $130. If you need the service manual for that Rollei I'm 95% sure I've got it in PDF form somewhere on my hard drive. I remember it being kind of hard to track down when I was looking. I don't envy you, those things are tiny and look pretty tricky.
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Oct 30, 2009 03:55
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Martytoof posted:I went to Walmart and the lady there was having none of my 120 mumbo jumbo. I think I need to go back when someone else is behind the counter. I haven't re-done it yet, but the same thing happened to me. Then I realized there are separate envelopes and drop box for the film that mails directly to fuji, and I guess the trick is just mail it out and let the non-walmart lab figure it out.
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Oct 30, 2009 04:28
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It took 3 tries before I found a decent Olympus OM. The OM10 I bought had ended up with a jammed mirror and shutter, I took it apart and actually, it's still apart. The OM1 I found had a jammed mirror, I found the problem and got the camera working but I think the reason the mirror came off its track is possibly a really bad drop. The camera never really seems to focus right. I also bought a Ricoh KR super in wondeful cosmetic shape that doesn't work at all. It came with a K mount lens so it wasn't a total flop. It's like the classic car game. Knowledge helps you avoid the real clunkers but once in a while, you end up with a paperweight.
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Oct 30, 2009 04:38
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Yes I have the PDF though it gave me a false sense of security. I am still determined but all my energy is spent. There are a lot of crappy plastic bits that really should have been metal. I guess thats the biggest gripe about these Singapore Rollei's.
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Oct 30, 2009 04:54
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Jahoodie posted:I haven't re-done it yet, but the same thing happened to me. Then I realized there are separate envelopes and drop box for the film that mails directly to fuji, and I guess the trick is just mail it out and let the non-walmart lab figure it out. Yeah, there are some instructions on RFF about how to do that so you can just bypass the employees at the store. I made a half-hearted attempt at asking one of the guys at the local one a few months ago and he had absolutely no clue, I may go retry if I ever get a working 120 camera. Gnomad posted:It took 3 tries before I found a decent Olympus OM. The OM10 I bought had ended up with a jammed mirror and shutter, I took it apart and actually, it's still apart. The OM1 I found had a jammed mirror, I found the problem and got the camera working but I think the reason the mirror came off its track is possibly a really bad drop. The camera never really seems to focus right. Except for really subtle stuff like a light leak or film advance issue you can usually tell with a quick hands-on, which is nice although not so useful with eBay. I took a Lomo LC-A apart for kicks (that was a basket case anyways, a guy who specialized in them couldn't get it working reliably after a few months and sent it back to me) with the intention of trying to lube the shutter and then re-assemble it. Never really bothered since I replaced it with an XA and it still wasn't fixable, eventually wound up cannibalizing it for parts. Tigertron posted:Yes I have the PDF though it gave me a false sense of security. I am still determined but all my energy is spent. There are a lot of crappy plastic bits that really should have been metal. I guess thats the biggest gripe about these Singapore Rollei's. Well, good luck then at any rate! Depending on what's broken I might be interested in it for parts; the reason I had that manual in the first place was that I was considering a DIY project with one a while back.
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Oct 30, 2009 05:08
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Gnomad posted:It took 3 tries before I found a decent Olympus OM. The OM10 I bought had ended up with a jammed mirror and shutter, I took it apart and actually, it's still apart. The OM1 I found had a jammed mirror, I found the problem and got the camera working but I think the reason the mirror came off its track is possibly a really bad drop. The camera never really seems to focus right. 
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Oct 30, 2009 06:21
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guidoanselmi posted:If it's damp you might want to reconsider. Pretty dry in there usually - plenty of airflow. Pompous Rhombus posted:
Private page
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Oct 30, 2009 06:35
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wickles posted:Private page Whoops, I have my "Any user may download this image" set to "no" but thought you could still direct link. Anyways, main page This is my second most "interesting" photograph
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Oct 30, 2009 06:56
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pwn posted:Sorry to ask, but do you have a flickr? I see you talk about buying cameras all the time and would love to see what you've done with them. No Flickr, I do have a fotothing- fotothing/gnomad, but it will likely disappoint unless you like motorcycles photographed in Alaska and the Yukon. I'm better at collecting cameras than using them, I went a bit nuts this spring and summer at yard sales and thrift stores, but when I see $8 SLR's I go ahead and buy them, with the idea that if I don't like them I can flog them on ebay. And I have to say that ebay has been really good to me lately. Now that I have a better idea of what to look for (and what I want myself, like my Mamiya suitcase) I'll be collecting less and using more. This time of year gets challenging for me. My available daylight is fading fast, t he sun comes up 9 amish and goes down 7 pmish and every day is shorter. The light is great but I don't get much of it.
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Oct 31, 2009 05:02
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Yeah, around here it feels like I'm living in loving England lately, we've had one legitimately sunny day in the past 3 or 4 weeks. Constantly overcast, raining about 50% of the time. It's murder on the psyche and I'm really not looking forward to another 4-5 months of this crap + snow.
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Oct 31, 2009 06:31
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Gnomad posted:No Flickr, I do have a fotothing- fotothing/gnomad, but it will likely disappoint unless you like motorcycles photographed in Alaska and the Yukon. The beginning and end of the day are the best time to shoot anyways. If I could have my way I'd be in perpetual dawn or dusk for shooting.
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Oct 31, 2009 07:09
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pwn posted:Yeah, around here it feels like I'm living in loving England lately, Wonder how long till I get to use the Kodachrome 64.
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Oct 31, 2009 07:20
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pwn posted:Yeah, around here it feels like I'm living in loving England lately, we've had one legitimately sunny day in the past 3 or 4 weeks. Constantly overcast, raining about 50% of the time. It's murder on the psyche and I'm really not looking forward to another 4-5 months of this crap + snow. Meanwhile in Florida, it's been 70's-80's all week and I'm still riding my bike to work in shorts and a t-shirt. There was a nice breeze tonight, felt like air conditioning  (on the downside, Florida is full of Floridians) I just shot another football game with film (souping second of three batches as I type) tonight and it went pretty well. I had to write off that Super Ikonta for its mysterious light leak, so I re-cobbled together my 35mm panoramic this afternoon and brought it along as my wild card. Test roll earlier showed a small light leak on one side, I couldn't find anything obvious even with a flashlight in the darkroom, so just got a little paranoid with gaffer's tape on corners and "maybe" areas when I was waiting for the guy I was assisting to show up. Eyeballing the first roll out of it, it looks like I got the leak, although focus isn't quite as good as I hoped (shot most of it at f16 or f22 to be safe, but may have messed up calculations). Question on hyperfocal distance: if I'm using a 645 lens on 35mm, do I use the CoC value for 35mm or 645? I think that's what might have messed me up, I used 645 somewhat against my better judgement. Also, any special technique for getting film to dry flat? I hang it from a line in the shower with a binder clip, and weigh the end with a binder clip (or clips if they're smaller). It semi-works but is less than ideal.
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Oct 31, 2009 07:43
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yeah its tough to get film to dry with little curl. Extra weight on the bottom usually helps. You can also try cutting the strip somewhere in half and see if the gets you less curl. Not sure if hardener in the fixer has any affect but you could experiment with that as well. On a side note after a few more excruciating nights my Rollei is working again. I have been shooting with it all day.
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Nov 1, 2009 02:52
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Instead of reposting I'll just link to the post I made earlier in the sports photograph thread: film shots from Friday night's gameTigertron posted:yeah its tough to get film to dry with little curl. Extra weight on the bottom usually helps. You can also try cutting the strip somewhere in half and see if the gets you less curl. Not sure if hardener in the fixer has any affect but you could experiment with that as well. As far as the end curling up it's no problem (I put a little weight on the end), but running down the length it always drys into a faint "U" that makes scanning such a pain in the rear end. Even if I put it under like 20lbs of books for a week, it will still hold that shape.  That's awesome man on getting the Rollei working again, congrats.
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Nov 1, 2009 16:33
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yeah I have been shooting with Efke KB 400 and that stuff looks like a taco when it's done drying. Really there is not much you can do it all depends on how thick the film base is. The thinner the more the curl. I am kinda curious what kind of film is giving you so much trouble?
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Nov 1, 2009 17:08
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Tigertron posted:yeah I have been shooting with Efke KB 400 and that stuff looks like a taco when it's done drying. Really there is not much you can do it all depends on how thick the film base is. The thinner the more the curl. I am kinda curious what kind of film is giving you so much trouble? I wrote about Efke 400 awhiles back on my blog. WARNING: Long and nerdy! But then again, look where we're spending our time... http://ditchwatertheblog.blogspot.com/2009/02/well-well-well-looks-like-fotokemika.html
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Nov 1, 2009 17:26
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spritely posted:I wrote about Efke 400 awhiles back on my blog. WARNING: Long and nerdy! But then again, look where we're spending our time... Why did you buy Efke 400 for $4/roll when Arista Premium 400 is $2/roll?
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Nov 1, 2009 17:32
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That was a great read I just finished off about 100ft of the stuff and it has notorious curl.
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Nov 1, 2009 17:42
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HPL posted:Why did you buy Efke 400 for $4/roll when Arista Premium 400 is $2/roll? Honestly, I associate cheap with shoddy, or at least inconsistent - which is why Arista products scare me. But to be fair I've never used Arista Premium 400. Can you tell me about its physical qualities, what you develop it in, and how it scan/prints. Thanks!
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Nov 1, 2009 17:53
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spritely posted:Honestly, I associate cheap with shoddy, or at least inconsistent - which is why Arista products scare me. But to be fair I've never used Arista Premium 400. Can you tell me about its physical qualities, what you develop it in, and how it scan/prints. Its apparently just rebranded 400 Tri-x if im remembering correctly.
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Nov 1, 2009 17:58
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fronkpies posted:Its apparently just rebranded 400 Tri-x if im remembering correctly. Yeah, Freestyle can't/won't tell you what it is, but mentions it's rebranded film from an American manufacturer. Not a whole lot of those, and the dev chart they give for it matches Tri-X. Plus, it even turns light purplish after developing/fixing. That's what I've been shooting that gives me the taco-curl headaches. A betterscanning.com holder with glass to smoosh it flat would probably solve my woes, but they're a little pricey and I'm not 100% I'm going to keep my scanner. It's not the end of the world, and for $2 a roll I'm going to keep on shooting it for a long time yet.
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Nov 1, 2009 18:18
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Pompous Rhombus posted:Yeah, Freestyle can't/won't tell you what it is, but mentions it's rebranded film from an American manufacturer. Not a whole lot of those, and the dev chart they give for it matches Tri-X. Plus, it even turns light purplish after developing/fixing. OK, first off thanks for the betterscanning link. I just might need to get one of those to try and minimize "newton ring". I always thought that had to do with humidity. It's curious about your curling issues, Pompous. I shoot and scan Tri-X 400 and don't have an issue with curl. I use Photo-flow, squeegee with my fingers, and hang in the shower stall with clothes pins as a weight and let it air dry - usually over night. The climate here is very humid. I'll def checkout the Arista 400 though. Thanks, guys!
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Nov 1, 2009 18:34
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spritely posted:I'll def checkout the Arista 400 though. Thanks, guys! AP400 is money well spent. I'm about halfthrough a case of it and I'll be damned if it's not Tri-X. Using a hair dryer to dry the negatives can help straighten them out too because you have more control over the curl. Freestyle's Legacy Pro 100 is pretty sweet too if you're looking for a slower film. It's rebranded Fuji Acros 100. HPL fucked around with this message at 18:55 on Nov 1, 2009 |
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Nov 1, 2009 18:45
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I had a good Halloween, I got this trick or treating: It's a Canon AE-1 with a 50mm 1.8. I have never used a film SLR before. The guy who gave it to me says he bought it new and everything looks perfect on it. Is there anything I should know before I try to use it?
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Nov 1, 2009 20:13
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TomR posted:I had a good Halloween, I got this trick or treating: Just that that camera + lens own super hard and are pretty much indestructible in my experience. Getting it cleaned wouldn't hurt, though.
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Nov 1, 2009 22:19
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dorkasaurus_rex posted:Just that that camera + lens own super hard and are pretty much indestructible in my experience. Getting it cleaned wouldn't hurt, though. I second this. Nice score! Some random info: You get shutter priority and full manual (the AE-1 Program later added program AE). Although you don't get metering in full manual. Loading the film is a little fiddly if you've never done it before, but isn't too different to most 80s film SLRs: - Shutter speed to 1/1000. - Lift rewinder - Insert cartridge - Pull leader out and insert into take-up spool. - Lower rewinder. - 'Take a picture' - Wind film - Close back - 'Take a picture', wind film, repeat until frame counter is at 1. The AE-1 gives you a nice satisfying "click-ka" with every masterpiece you capture. All in all a nice camera, and at the right price too! 
SquallStrife fucked around with this message at 00:57 on Nov 3, 2009 |
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