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I have a PVC vent pipe from an old high efficiency furnace that is sticking out the side of my house. It is no longer in use, and as such is a nice pipe for cold air to come in. I'm going to remove the pipe, but what would be the best way to patch the remaining hole up? Also, I was wanting an exterior outlet, and the hole is not in a bad place for one. Would I be able to utilize it at all, or should I just patch the hole and deal with the outlet separately?
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Nov 2, 2009 01:23
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drywall question: We're redoing our bathroom. I finished drywalling around the shower and painted it so we could use the shower (about 3 weeks ago) while I finished mudding the rest of the bathroom. I finished mudding a few days ago and primered yesterday, and noticed this crack along the joint between 2 pieces of drywall:  Click here for the full 800x600 image. It's 1/2" purple board that's screwed in every 16" (the cracks are in the space between the joists - I can push in on the ceiling and enlarge the crack). I used fiberglass mesh tape and all-purpose joint compound for the joint. How should I go about repairing this? I would just tape over it again but it failed the first time, so I dunno if doing it again would work.
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Nov 2, 2009 18:25
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CureMinorWounds posted:So, whilst dying my hair black tonight, I covered the ENTIRE bathtub in dye residue as I desperately tried to scrub the dye out of my hair. I spent about an hour in there with the Simple Green and a scrubber, and I got almost all of it off. Now there is just a big line of brown from the back of the tub to the drain. Do you goons know of something more magical than Simple Green to take it off? Don't do what my roommate in college did when he covered our tub in melted shoe polish. He mixed together bleach and Windex (with extra ammonia) and made our whole apartment smell like a swimming pool. It didn't get any of the shoe polish out, either. I think he ended up using sandpaper to get rid of it. This is probably a terrible idea and will mess up your tub.
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Nov 2, 2009 21:22
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dyne posted:drywall question: Wait, which way do the joists run in that picture?
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Nov 2, 2009 22:41
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The Human Cow posted:Don't do what my roommate in college did when he covered our tub in melted shoe polish. He mixed together bleach and Windex (with extra ammonia) and made our whole apartment smell like a swimming pool. It didn't get any of the shoe polish out, either. I think he ended up using sandpaper to get rid of it. This is probably a terrible idea and will mess up your tub. Christ, I would assume that the fumes would just kill you outright.
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Nov 3, 2009 00:45
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[Mixing bleach and windex]CureMinorWounds posted:Christ, I would assume that the fumes would just kill you outright. If I remember right, depending on the relative amounts of ammonia and bleach, you end up with either chlorine gas (and thus if exposed to it, hydrochloric acid in your lungs, eyes, nose, etc.), nitrogen trichloride (explosive) and/or hydrazine (toxic, highly flammable, can spontaneously combust due to the exothermic nature of the reaction). So, well, don't do that, kids.
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Nov 3, 2009 01:24
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kid sinister posted:Wait, which way do the joists run in that picture? Ah that would have been good info to include. They run perpendicular to the cracks. I have access to the ceiling from the attic, so I think I'm going to stick a piece of wood on top of the drywall boards, and screw the drywall into that wood to stabilize the joint
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Nov 3, 2009 02:41
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dyne posted:Ah that would have been good info to include. They run perpendicular to the cracks. This is the right answer. It doesn't have to be thick, I've done it before with a 1x2. You might also want to check that you screwed the drywall good and tight to the joists, as cracks like that are a good sign that there's a gap in between the drywall and joists.
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Nov 3, 2009 04:24
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kid sinister posted:This is the right answer. It doesn't have to be thick, I've done it before with a 1x2. You might also want to check that you screwed the drywall good and tight to the joists, as cracks like that are a good sign that there's a gap in between the drywall and joists.
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Nov 3, 2009 04:30
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dyne posted:Cool beans. I knew I shouldn't have gone and told my wife I was done mudding the bathroom Is it cold where you are now? If it gets cold, then your joists could also be lifting a bit due to contracting with the season. Ensure you have enough insulation up there.
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Nov 3, 2009 06:53
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CureMinorWounds posted:So, whilst dying my hair black tonight, I covered the ENTIRE bathtub in dye residue as I desperately tried to scrub the dye out of my hair. I spent about an hour in there with the Simple Green and a scrubber, and I got almost all of it off. Now there is just a big line of brown from the back of the tub to the drain. Do you goons know of something more magical than Simple Green to take it off? Rubbing alcohol should take it right out. It's cleaned up every black hair dye stain I've made in an instant.
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Nov 3, 2009 15:55
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CureMinorWounds posted:Christ, I would assume that the fumes would just kill you outright. Yeah, we evacuated the room for a few hours and opened all the windows just in case.
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Nov 3, 2009 16:51
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I'm looking for a place to find some aluminum tubing that's hollow but pretty thick so I can thread the inside of it for use in a cane. The only place I can find aluminum tubing sells it at 28 bucks for about 8 feet and all I really need is about 32 inches in length and 2 inches in circumference.
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Nov 5, 2009 03:38
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Craft painting question: I want to paint glass ornaments for Christmas. Does anyone know if you have to use the special glass paint or can I use regular acrylic paint with a good varnish/top coat?
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Nov 5, 2009 04:24
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WILD ANAL ODOR posted:I'm looking for a place to find some aluminum tubing that's hollow but pretty thick so I can thread the inside of it for use in a cane. Have you tried Mcmaster?
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Nov 5, 2009 15:16
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Picture hooks for plaster walls... I need to hang some pictures in my new house. I am not going to install picture rail. I took out a couple of these plastic "hardwall" hooks and they raped my plaster. There were also some brass ones with hardened nails, which seem quite robust for hanging stuff but also damaged the plaster on removal - especially the three-nail ones. I wouldn't mind using the brass ones again, but if anyone knows of something better I'd love to hear about it.
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Nov 8, 2009 00:12
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slap me silly posted:Picture hooks for plaster walls... I need to hang some pictures in my new house. I am not going to install picture rail. I took out a couple of these plastic "hardwall" hooks and they raped my plaster. There were also some brass ones with hardened nails, which seem quite robust for hanging stuff but also damaged the plaster on removal - especially the three-nail ones. I wouldn't mind using the brass ones again, but if anyone knows of something better I'd love to hear about it. The hardwall hooks are for hardwall (brick, masonry, concret) not plasterboard, which is why they hosed up your wall. As for what to use it depends on the weight of the pictures. Up to about a kilogram you can use varying sizes of stick-on adhesive hooks. Anything near or over a kilogram I'd say use nail-in hooks, and try to get them into a stud if possible. For anything over 1.5kg you need to get them into a stud or use multiple wallmates with hooks rather than screws. There are a few sorts of wallmates (i'm not sure what you callt hem in the US - http://www.itwproline.com.au/Hollow-Wall-Fasteners/default.aspx - these things), but try to use the heaviest ones you can. But really for heavy pictures you should be using something going into the stud. It's important to remember the failure point will not be the hook, but the plasterboard. Haikeeba! fucked around with this message at 15:26 on Nov 8, 2009 |
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Nov 8, 2009 15:24
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Well, it's plaster and lath, not plaster board. I don't know whether the lath is metal or wood. By the way I've found those self-drilling anchors for wallboard quite tricky to install. If you run into a stud or even just gently caress it up a little, they act like an auger and drill a giant hole in the wall. Makes it ready for your toggle bolt I guess...
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Nov 8, 2009 18:01
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I'm reclaiming a trailer from former tenants. They have left a dog odor that is down to the actual wooden floors after we stripped the carpet and padding out. Does anyone have a solution that will get rid of odors like this? I am kind of desperate, as I am moving into this place in 3 weeks and the place really needs to not stink after we lay down the new carpet. Thanks.
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Nov 9, 2009 01:52
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Have you tried Ozium? I find pot smoke to be a very lingering smell but the stoners swear by it. The manufacturer advertises it as a good way to get rid of pet odor.
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Nov 9, 2009 03:43
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A Fancy Bloke posted:I'm reclaiming a trailer from former tenants. They have left a dog odor that is down to the actual wooden floors after we stripped the carpet and padding out. Does anyone have a solution that will get rid of odors like this? I am kind of desperate, as I am moving into this place in 3 weeks and the place really needs to not stink after we lay down the new carpet. My friend had cat piss smell when he moved into his place. He painted it with Kilt oil-based primer and that did a good job of sealing it up. Might be worth a shot.
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Nov 9, 2009 19:02
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Alright, here's a really basic electronics question. I want to connect a single contact point (the circle on the left in the image) to two other, separate points ("Point A" and "Point B" in the image), but keep these two points disconnected from each other at the same time. How do I do this? Here's a sketch of my problem. When I throw the switch to connect point A to the origin, I want there to be no connection between point A and point B.  Would a diode work..? A Fancy Bloke posted:They have left a dog odor that is down to the actual wooden floors after we stripped the carpet and padding out. Does anyone have a solution that will get rid of odors like this? Try pet stores - I found a cleaning fluid specifically designed for this by asking around.
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Nov 15, 2009 22:59
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HELLOMYNAMEIS___ posted:Alright, here's a really basic electronics question. I want to connect a single contact point (the circle on the left in the image) to two other, separate points ("Point A" and "Point B" in the image), but keep these two points disconnected from each other at the same time. How do I do this? Possibly, but a different switch might be a better fix. What do you mean by "no connection"? Are you saying that B is normally on when A's switch is open, but should turn off when A is closed? According to your diagram, B is always on. What are the power states for each branch and what do you intend for this switch to do? kid sinister fucked around with this message at 23:42 on Nov 15, 2009 |
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Nov 15, 2009 23:25
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kid sinister posted:Possibly, but a different switch might be a better fix. What do you mean by "no connection"? Are you saying that B is normally on when A's switch is open, but should turn off when A is closed? According to your diagram, B is always on. What are the power states for each branch and what do you intend for this switch to do? Yes, I intend B to always be connected to the origin. A should only be connected to the origin when the switch is closed. So far, so good - but how should I modify my connection if I never want A and B to be connected to each other? Points A and B are IC legs, the origin is a +5V power supply. I'm modifying an electronic toy, and cool things happen when I connect the +5V to either of the IC pins, but the device crashes when the pins connect to each other 
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Nov 16, 2009 00:54
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Yeah a different switch would be a better fix for your job. If the IC crashes whenever both pins are powered at the same time, then you must have a switch that powers either pin one at a time, never both at the same time. If you want one switch to control the flow to two different branches, then use a single pole, double throw (SPDT) switch. Keep in mind that a regular SPDT switch can only flip between either branch. If you want a double throw switch that can also turn off, then get a single pole, center off (SPCO) switch. edit: put this new switch at the junction point in your diagram. Hook the source up to the common pole of the switch, then run a straight shot from either pole to A and B. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 01:18 on Nov 16, 2009 |
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Nov 16, 2009 01:14
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HELLOMYNAMEIS___ posted:Yes, I intend B to always be connected to the origin. A should only be connected to the origin when the switch is closed. So far, so good - but how should I modify my connection if I never want A and B to be connected to each other? Stuff to try: but now with pictures. First is a single-pole double-throw center-off switch. Second is a diode.
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Nov 16, 2009 02:21
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Is there anyway to print something out, like text or an image, that's cut out from the media its printed on? I want to make an image that's a few simple lines and some text, as well as another sheet that has maybe 15 lines of text, and have it print with empty space where the text would be, then paint over it. Any way to do this? Any way of efficiently cutting out letters from paper that are fairly small? The only thing I can think of is screen printing, but this will be a one time use thing. Any idea how much screen printing costs?
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Nov 16, 2009 04:37
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RealKyleH posted:Is there anyway to print something out, like text or an image, that's cut out from the media its printed on? Your description sucks, but something tells me this would be possible with Photoshop.
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Nov 16, 2009 05:49
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Think of how screen printing works. I want to do that but do not have access to the materials they use. Are there other options to do something similar besides and xacto knife.
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Nov 16, 2009 05:51
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kid sinister posted:babyeatingpsychopath posted:Stuff to try: but now with pictures. Thank you both for helping! RealKyleH posted:Is there anyway to print something out, like text or an image, that's cut out from the media its printed on? Check out photo emulsion. Haven't tried it, but sounds like you could print an overlay onto printable overhead projector film an use that: 1. The original image is created on a transparent overlay such as acetate or tracing paper. The image may be drawn or painted directly on the overlay, photocopied, or printed with a inkjet or laser printer, as long as the areas to be inked are opaque. A black-and-white negative may also be used (projected on to the screen). However, unlike traditional platemaking, these screens are normally exposed by using film positives. 2. A screen must then be selected. There are several different mesh counts that can be used depending on the detail of the design being printed. Once a screen is selected, the screen must be coated with emulsion and let to dry in the dark. Once dry, the screen is ready to be burned/exposed. 3. The overlay is placed over the emulsion-coated screen, and then exposed with a light source containing ultraviolet light in the 350-420 nanometer spectrum. The UV light passes through the clear areas and create a polymerization (hardening) of the emulsion. 4. The screen is washed off thoroughly. The areas of emulsion that were not exposed to light dissolve and wash away, leaving a negative stencil of the image on the mesh. If this is what you were talking about when you said you don't have access to the materials used in screen printing, then I guess you'll need to grab an X-Acto.
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Nov 16, 2009 11:18
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Yes that's what I was referring to. I do not have the materials to do that at home.
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Nov 16, 2009 14:08
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I picked up a small screen printing kit from Hobby lobby for like $30 with everything necessary to do light transfers.
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Nov 16, 2009 18:12
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How do I do this the right way?  This is in the shower. Apparently, our house was built by lazy drunks who hated us a priori or something. Also, when we painted the bathroom, I'm guessing there was some dust of some sort along the edge of the shower. Over time (around 2 years), the paint in areas bubbled up. I picked at it and peeled off chunks of it, revealing what looks like wet compound and water stains. Which, naturally, get worse with every shower. What's the proper way to correct this? How long should I leave the shower alone before attempting anything? I'm guessing I'll have to wait a while (not sure how long), then remove the paint -- which is latex-based, and I'm not sure how to remove it (or if I need to), then patch up the "mushy" spots, then repaint. Is that wrong? Am I missing something? ----- As a bonus problem, one of the upstairs windows looks like this:  I'm hoping that's just water damage and not nascent mold or something. Am I going to have to pull off the trim to see what's lurking under there? If so, is there any trick to removing the trim while keeping it reusable? I don't know much (anything) about finish work, but from the looks of things, neither did the contracts who crapped out this house, either 
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Nov 16, 2009 18:41
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A Child's Letter posted:As a bonus problem, one of the upstairs windows looks like this: It could be a couple things - someone left the window open during a rain storm, and the wind blew the water that way, or the window isn't flashed right or just plain leaks. You can pick up a moisture meter for relatively short money, $30 or so and test the area to see if it's even slightly damp. As far as the trim goes, with a gap that large it might be better to just replace it after you remove it. That's pretty standard casing. My lumber yard has it pre-primed for about sixty cents a foot. That way, you can correct the gap. Removal is pretty straightforward - use a razor to slice through the caulk/paint bond between the edges, and try to get a stiff putty knife behind it to gently work it loose. There are probably nails that pin the corners together too.
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Nov 16, 2009 19:28
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A/V Room Wiring - Is pseudo-conduit a good idea? If so, can I use cold water PVC or something cheap like that for HDMI, coax, CAT5/6, RCA, etc. (no AC or real voltage)? I've got an old house with the plaster and lath pulled down and insulation up. I keep thinking it might be nice to run the wires either down to the floor or basement from behind where the flat screen will be. If they'll fit, I'll probably use two 45 degree elbows behind the TV and hopefully a T at the same height as the AC outlets and drop to basement. Thoughts? (http://www.techtoolsupply.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=456 It looks like there are a variety of wall plates for bulk wiring available but, I don't understand if people just pull the wires between insulation/vapor barrier and drywall or use some type of conduit...)
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Nov 17, 2009 03:45
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hielonueve posted:A/V Room Wiring - Definitely use conduit. I don't know why you'd use regular PVC and not the gray stuff meant for conduit though. Run as big of a diameter as you can to make things easier on yourself if you ever need to pull another length. Leave a piece of string in there too to facilitate this.
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Nov 17, 2009 12:23
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Has anyone here had any experience designing/installing a system to reuse washer water for plants? My landlord put a clause in my lease that I have to water the plants every week and it is costing me a small fortune to pay my water bill each month. I've looked around and seen a few different setups online, but they are all either a) way more complicated then I am comfortable putting in a rental, or b) a million dollors for a kit. I still need to talk to my landlord about it, but I figured if I had a plan when I do talk to him, he'd be more willing to listen.
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Nov 17, 2009 17:09
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Is WoodWoker's Hardware the best place to buy drawer slides? I need 22" slides with 100+ pound capacity and some overtravel. http://wwhardware.com/catalog.cfm/G...0125%23%20Class These are $19.74 a set, but have $6.95 ground shipping on them which puts them within a few dollars of Rockler or Woodcraft. I absolutely need the overtravel, but I might be able to live with less weight. http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2080199/28493/Accuride-3834-22-Med-Duty-Slide-featuring-1-Over-Travel.aspx would be great but its out of stock in both my local Woodcrafts. El_Matarife fucked around with this message at 20:04 on Nov 17, 2009 |
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Nov 17, 2009 19:33
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I need something a friend told me about but don't know the name of it. I would make up the name "wall-plate-backer" for it but that turns nothing up. The way he describes it, its a metal plate the size of a wallplate with a hole in it and tabs. You use it on stuff with no box in the wall, you cut a hole in the wall and this thing has tabs that you bend inside the hole and it gives your wall-plate something nicer/better than anchors hammered into sheetrock to screw into. Vin BioEthanol fucked around with this message at 05:13 on Nov 18, 2009 |
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Nov 18, 2009 05:07
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El_Matarife posted:Is WoodWoker's Hardware the best place to buy drawer slides?
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