|
The fuel tank vent system is some how plugged, or the canister shut off valve could be stuck closed but that should throw a code. When pumping gas the air in the tank can't vent properly as the fuel is going in and this is causing the pump to shut off. Check the vent filter on the fuel fill tube under the car and make sure it's open. If you look in the end and see a white cotton looking material in there remove it as it is a goddamn spider web and clearing it out usually works. Other than that, trace all the vent lines and make sure none are clogged.
|
#
?
Nov 9, 2009 15:43
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 14, 2024 20:28 |
|
|
GravityDaemon posted:I've been having a little problem with my totally stock 09 WRX lately, that at first seemed cosmetic, but now Im worried may be electrical. I have some background info first. So I popped my hood and cleaned out all the leaves and other autumn detritus out of the engine bay. Surprise, there was a loving nut of some sort rattling around caught next to one of the wipers and the side of the bay. D'oh 
|
|
#
?
Nov 9, 2009 16:18
|
|
|
GravityDaemon posted:So I popped my hood and cleaned out all the leaves and other autumn detritus out of the engine bay. Surprise, there was a loving nut of some sort rattling around caught next to one of the wipers and the side of the bay. D'oh I would take it in to the dealer, describe the problem and show them the mystery nut, and drive away in a loaner while they fix your issues under warranty.
|
|
#
?
Nov 9, 2009 17:23
|
|
|
The trunk on my STI was keyed. BAD. Ideas? I don't really like the rear wing all that much. I would love to trade that thing away for a normal looking trunk and maybe get a lip spoiler on there, but anything that isn't HUMONGOUS wing would be pretty nice. What does everyone think? The keying is pretty drat deep, and only on the trunk, right across the back.
|
|
#
?
Nov 9, 2009 18:18
|
|
|
TeMpLaR posted:The trunk on my STI was keyed. BAD. Post a pic, is it down to the metal? Could some heavy polishing make it less noticeable?
|
|
#
?
Nov 9, 2009 18:41
|
|
|
RealKyleH posted:Post a pic, is it down to the metal? Could some heavy polishing make it less noticeable? Down to the metal. It would need a repaint. Like I said, I don't really want the wing anymore, so I'm wondering if I could possibly just trade the entire thing for a WRB stock trunk or trunk with lip. Is this a fair trade? I'm not really sure what the normal going value is for things like this. I'm not really asking for trades on here, just if this is reasonable to expect in general. If not, then is it possible to remove my wing and get a lip put on? It looks like the STI wing is held on by a lot of hardware. Do I need a new trunk or can this one be salvaged if I wanted out of the big wing?
|
|
#
?
Nov 9, 2009 19:01
|
|
|
ab0z posted:I would take it in to the dealer, describe the problem and show them the mystery nut, and drive away in a loaner while they fix your issues under warranty. A nut like an acorn, not an actual piece of mechanical equipment. The sound was that stupid thing banging around.
|
|
#
?
Nov 9, 2009 19:11
|
|
|
GravityDaemon posted:A nut like an acorn, not an actual piece of mechanical equipment. The sound was that stupid thing banging around. Oh haha I see now. If you still have that other noise and it's not just normal wind noise you just noticed, take it in for that. Talk to the neighborhood squirrels about the acorn, they're probably wondering where it went.
|
|
#
?
Nov 9, 2009 20:57
|
|
|
ab0z posted:Talk to the neighborhood squirrels about the acorn, they're probably wondering where it went. The vast liberal conspiracy is out to get you  Does anyone know how hard replacing the cabin filters in an 07 WRX is? I'm at 33k, that's probably around time to change them, right?
|
|
#
?
Nov 9, 2009 21:08
|
|
|
I'm not sure of 07 is any different, but for 02 it's pretty easy (if annoying). You just remove the glove box. There are like 8 screws and a clip on the side to do so. Here's a tip, since the filter in question is a simple panel filter, go buy yourself a 3m furnace filter and cut it into the appropriate sized squares. Congrats, you now have 4 filters for about $15 rather than a single filter for over $30.
|
|
#
?
Nov 9, 2009 23:39
|
|
|
^^^ Nothing to add, but I like your profile icon.
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2009 05:14
|
|
|
ab0z posted:Oh haha I see now. If you still have that other noise and it's not just normal wind noise you just noticed, take it in for that. The noises all disappeared, it's been nice driving and not constantly being worried about it  The cabin air filter in the 09 is a snap to replace, it's also behind the glove box. My buddy's 05 was easy too; I imagine they haven't changed it that much through the years. Gigi Galli fucked around with this message at 16:37 on Nov 10, 2009 |
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2009 16:34
|
|
|
I have sort of given up looking for an older 2.5RS. Seems they have too many miles or have been modified in a horrible sort of way by their owners. With the newer Wrx's, say '03-'06 would it be worth it to pony up for the Sti? Seems there is a few thousand dollar difference between the WRX and the Sti but with 50,000-80,000 miles on the car would I come out ahead putting a few thousand in suspension and engine upgrades on a standard WRX? Seems like someone who bought an Sti in the first place would be more likely to drive the card a bit harder as well. sl0hburn fucked around with this message at 17:34 on Nov 10, 2009 |
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2009 17:31
|
|
|
I'd get the sti. I own an '02 WRX.
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2009 17:57
|
|
|
Personally I would (and did) go for a WRX limited over the STI. The nicer interior, sunroof, and cold weather stuff is worth more to me on a daily basis than having the extra power. I'm married and kind of boring though.
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2009 18:07
|
|
|
sl0hburn posted:I have sort of given up looking for an older 2.5RS. Seems they have too many miles or have been modified in a horrible sort of way by their owners. Took me 4 years to find the right older 2.5RS. I found the seller on ebay; but, did the transaction offline since he was only 75 miles away. As you've noticed, they are not easy cars to find and you will need patience if you really want one. Where are you looking?
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2009 18:46
|
|
|
c355n4 posted:Took me 4 years to find the right older 2.5RS. I found the seller on ebay; but, did the transaction offline since he was only 75 miles away. As you've noticed, they are not easy cars to find and you will need patience if you really want one. I live in SoCal but my office is located in Washington just outside of Portland. Really anywhere on the West Coast as long as I have someone close to go take a look at it. I like to drive and inspect the car before buying anything.
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2009 18:57
|
|
|
sl0hburn posted:I live in SoCal but my office is located in Washington just outside of Portland. Really anywhere on the West Coast as long as I have someone close to go take a look at it. I like to drive and inspect the car before buying anything. Ah, I'm on the east coast.  I've seen a few for sale out here. Nothing amazing though.
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2009 19:11
|
|
|
So I'm at 55,xxx miles on my 05 wrx and its time for new brakes I was quoted $350 for Hawk SP pads and new coated rotors (I feel the extra cost for the coated rotors will be worth it as I live in MI and don't want the salt making the rotors gross. I was also quoted $200 for labor by my local dealer. (other shops had similar prices) Does this sound like a pretty good deal and setup? EDIT: this is for front and rear brakes cmorrow001 fucked around with this message at 21:14 on Nov 10, 2009 |
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2009 21:12
|
|
|
c355n4 posted:Ah, I'm on the east coast. There are a few on the RS25 Forums including this guy in Austin, TX.  83,000 miles and $6,000 obo. Texas road trip anyone.
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2009 23:30
|
|
|
RealKyleH posted:I'd get the sti. I own an '02 WRX. I agree. While you can modify the engine to make the STi power, you'll just break your transmission trying to do STi things with it. The peace of mind will be worth it. I've seen 11-flat 1/4mile runs in an STi with stock trans, driveshaft, and axles. I've also seen 6 WRXs break their transmissions or axles all on the same day at the shootout in byron.
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2009 23:31
|
|
|
Will the 17" wheels from the 05-07 STi fit the 08-09 STi? I'm looking for a set of wheels for my '09 STi for dirt and snow and I'd love to use a set of gold wheels from an '07 if possible. I know the bolt pattern is the same and the offset seems to be in range, but I'm concerned the 17x8's might not clear the brakes on the '09 which come with 18x8" wheels. I've done a bunch of searching and I've heard both yes and no, and all of the "wheel threads" I've seen are for adding 19x10 or something ridiculous wheels rather than going down to 17s. So anyone with practical experience?
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2009 02:33
|
|
|
yes. brakes are exactly the same between the two.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2009 02:45
|
|
|
This is always such a depressing time of year for me. Last weekend I took the coilovers off my XT and swapped back the OEM suspension as well as a set of winter tires. I officially drive an SUV for the next 6 months. At least I was able to sneak in one last track day mid October. I put Toyo G02+ snow tires on my wife's Legacy last year. Liked them so much I bailed on my Hankook Icebears and picked up a set of 215/60/16 GO2+ for the Forester. Add big chunky winter tire treads to already soft suspension and the Forester wanders on the highway in a straight line, at least its going to be a blast in deep snow.
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2009 04:16
|
|
|
Is there any way to figure out the difference between blow-by and leaking turbo seals? I'm losing quite a bit of oil in my LGT (1qt per 700mi or so with no track/auto-x, quite a bit more on the track, but it always did that). I have zero external leaks (this has been gone over with a fine tooth comb), the engine runs fine, I have all power (can pass a WOT STI on thill's straight), idle is perfect, no smoke from the oil cap, yadayadayada. Basically, I have no symptoms except an alarming amount of oil disappearing. I don't even have any smoke from the tailpipe as far as I can tell. I have done regular oil analysis and they have come back clean. I have one after the DP, and it is basically perfect despite having a very hard summer weekend at thill on it (changed right after). The only place I'm finding oil residue is by the recirc valve, and it is a tiny amount. I'm having a leak down test done shortly, but I expect that it will come out fine. So if it all turns out good, I'll be buying the crawford A/O separator once I figure out where the hell to mount it in an LGT. But if there's a leaking seal then that will be an expensive waste of money. 2005 LGT with a catted downpipe and cobb stage 2 tune for CA/AZ/NV 91 octane. The oil consumption increased to worrying levels with the downpipe (was about 1qt per 1.5-2k mi). It is worth noting that I don't daily this car (no commute!), so it is driven much harder than normal (lots of boost). I did do a 600mi highway cruise and used basically no oil (dipstick was exactly the same as when I left). This indicates blow-by to me, but gently caress if I know.
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2009 04:53
|
|
|
So I got my Perrin equal length headers back from being ceramic coated a few days ago, and installed them on my 06 LGT today. I had a more mechanically minded friend help me out, and we got them on OK - from everything I've read on LegacyGT.com, a new tune isn't really a necessity when adding headers on. I reset my ECU with my AccessPort right away, but when I was revving the car initially, it smelled rich as hell - really nasty gas odor. Also, when we had the car up on jackstands, and revved it quickly to check for boost leaks, it would make sort of a popping noise upon revving down. As mentioned priorly, the car is a 2006 Legacy GT manual, with the following mods: Perrin Catless Uppipe Perrin Catted Two Piece Downpipe Perrin Top Mount Intercooler AEM Cold Air Intake Perrin EL Headers I had a custom e-tune done for the prior modifications, with the exception of the headers, done by PDX Tuning. After driving it around a bit, the smell went away...don't know if the car feels any faster though, so I wonder if I may have a small boost leak. With the modifications I'm running, the highest the AccessPort showed me as hitting boost at was 17.1 PSI when running through third gear. Does this sound right, or should I pop it into my mechanic and have him double check everything?
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2009 08:30
|
|
|
nm posted:Is there any way to figure out the difference between blow-by and leaking turbo seals? what oil are you using? Some oil usually is going to be lost through the pcv regardless of the condition of the rings/ringlands simply because the crankcase is hot and some oil in there will evaporate/burn. Pull off your intercooler and see what's in there.
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2009 09:35
|
|
|
jamal posted:what oil are you using? Some oil usually is going to be lost through the pcv regardless of the condition of the rings/ringlands simply because the crankcase is hot and some oil in there will evaporate/burn. Couldn't I get oil in the intercooler due to a turbo problem?
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2009 09:51
|
|
|
usually oil in the IC gets pulled through the pcv system by the vacuum in the turbo inlet. compression check, and if it's fine just get an AOS. A cracked ring land usually results in 45-90psi in that cylinder.
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2009 10:12
|
|
|
NM I bet when you pull the IC you'll find a shitload of oil inside of it.
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2009 21:09
|
|
|
TurboLuvah posted:NM I bet when you pull the IC you'll find a shitload of oil inside of it.
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2009 00:14
|
|
|
Well, I finally went ahead and joined the legions of Subaru owners here in AI, but the way I got my Subaru is a bit strange. So after living in North Carolina for two and a half years, and the deserts of Qatar for another two and a half years, I was a bit leery of winter driving in Central PA. I’ve been here now since August, and its already snowed once! That’s crazy to someone who hadn’t seen snow in four years, and prompted me to start looking for a winter car. Back in September I went to the local Subaru dealership looking for an 09 WRX Limited, but unable to find one at a reasonable price, and I pretty much stopped looking until after I could get my PA driver’s license (which I finally got today). I knew that I wanted an AWD MT wagon, and there’s pretty much just one option for that (Suzuki wasn’t an option) so I knew that I wanted a Subaru. So last weekend I’m driving the three and a half hours to see my friends in Delaware in the trusty 1996 Impala SS, when I had some problems. I was taking back roads to get there, and when I finally got around a truck in a passing section, I realized that I no longer had OD. Shortly after that, I also lost 3rd gear! drat 4L60-E went to poo poo when it sat for two and half years while I was working in Qatar! So I had to keep to back roads all the way to Smynra, and let me tell you, hitting 4K RPMs in 2nd to go 50 mph doesn’t do much for your fuel economy or your confidence. Long story short, I ended up going to Dover Volkswagen/Subaru and got a pretty much bare-bones 2010 WRX for about $200 over invoice, not including tax, tags, and title. I felt pretty good about the price they offered, and they didn’t try to sell me any crap like extended warranties. So if you’re ever in Delaware and need a Volkswagen, Audi or Subaru, check out Dover Volkswagen on US13 next to the Dover Mall. Good people. If you’re wondering, I didn’t trade in or abandon the Impala SS. Its with my old mechanic in Delaware, and will be fixed. It had a leaky head gasket, and I wanted to garage it anyway, so it kind of worked out ok in the end with everything, except having to miss a day of work to pick up my car this past Monday. I LOVE the WRX! It’s a blast to drive, and like I said, its pretty base. The only options it has is the sport grille, side mouldings, and wheel locks. Oh, and its WR Blue Mica as well. A little boy-racerish with the clear taillights, but I can live with it for the speed and price. I did have a couple of questions though, if people would be kind enough to help out. 1) The dealership told me to use only non-synthetic motor oil. Is that correct? I don’t mind, because Mobil 1 is expensive, but it just seemed odd to me. I didn’t see any mention of it in the owners manual either. 2) The dealer also told me that the car runs fine on 87 Octane, but I assume that the engine will just retard timing when I use it, and it will hurt performance and fuel economy, so I should stick with 93 (don’t have 91 around here) and only use 87 in dire emergencies, correct? 3) My car came with Dunlop SP Sport 01 tires, when I always thought the OE tires were Potenza RE92s. When did they change to the Dunlops, this year? They are an asymmetrical tread summer tire, which leads to my next question 4) The Dunlops aren’t going to cut the mustard in a PA winter, so I’ve been looking at winter tires and wheels. Are high performance winter tires worth the money over standard winter passenger car tires? I live in a town, so I don’t think I’m going to need studs or chains or anything crazy like that. 5) For the winter tires, I’m going to go with wheels. Besides cost and weight, are there any other things that should factor into my wheel purchase of alloys vs. steelies? The alloy wheels at tire rack are only slightly more expensive than the steelies, and I figure with the alloy wheels, I won’t have to worry about corrosion, right? Are 16’s appropriate as long as the outer diameter of the winter tire is the same as the stock 225/45R17s? 6) This is my first brand-new car, and there looks to be some neat options that I missed out on, like a photochromatic rear view mirror (have one on the Impala SS, and LOVE it) and the extended center armrest. Will dealerships aquire and install them? Is there a better option to get these things? 7) Plaid choice: Tartan or nightwatch?
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2009 20:12
|
|
|
Hey heres an idea posted:
If using dino, follow the severe service interval which is 3750 mi. quote:2) The dealer also told me that the car runs fine on 87 Octane, but I assume that the engine will just retard timing when I use it, and it will hurt performance and fuel economy, so I should stick with 93 (don’t have 91 around here) and only use 87 in dire emergencies, correct? quote:4) The Dunlops aren’t going to cut the mustard in a PA winter, so I’ve been looking at winter tires and wheels. Are high performance winter tires worth the money over standard winter passenger car tires? I live in a town, so I don’t think I’m going to need studs or chains or anything crazy like that. High-performance winters don't tend to cost more, they have different characteristics. A tire like a Dunlop M3 will perform better in the dry and worse in the snow than a Nokian RSi. Depends on what you need. quote:6) This is my first brand-new car, and there looks to be some neat options that I missed out on, like a photochromatic rear view mirror (have one on the Impala SS, and LOVE it) and the extended center armrest. Will dealerships aquire and install them? Is there a better option to get these things? As for the armrest, check the internet first. At least for the LGT, there was a much better armrest extension sold in the Japanese and Euro market. Plus they're easy to DIY, generally.
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2009 20:50
|
|
|
Hey heres an idea posted:
Use 93. quote:3) My car came with Dunlop SP Sport 01 tires, when I always thought the OE tires were Potenza RE92s. When did they change to the Dunlops, this year? They are an asymmetrical tread summer tire, which leads to my next question Started with 09 MY. quote:4) The Dunlops aren’t going to cut the mustard in a PA winter, so I’ve been looking at winter tires and wheels. Are high performance winter tires worth the money over standard winter passenger car tires? I live in a town, so I don’t think I’m going to need studs or chains or anything crazy like that. Whatever makes you happy. quote:5) For the winter tires, I’m going to go with wheels. Besides cost and weight, are there any other things that should factor into my wheel purchase of alloys vs. steelies? The alloy wheels at tire rack are only slightly more expensive than the steelies, and I figure with the alloy wheels, I won’t have to worry about corrosion, right? Are 16’s appropriate as long as the outer diameter of the winter tire is the same as the stock 225/45R17s? Tire Rack has a winter tire/wheel combo sale thingie. 16" steelies with what ever tires you want. quote:6) This is my first brand-new car, and there looks to be some neat options that I missed out on, like a photochromatic rear view mirror (have one on the Impala SS, and LOVE it) and the extended center armrest. Will dealerships aquire and install them? Is there a better option to get these things? It is painfully easy to install the auto dim mirror yourself. You can get the kit with the mirror, wire, wire cover from any subie dealer. Although subaru genuine parts usually has pretty good pricing. Haven't been in a car with the extended armrest. I'm sure its stupid easy to install as well. quote:7) Plaid choice: Tartan or nightwatch? tartan.
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2009 23:23
|
|
|
Yeah, I'd use premium when you can, midgrade if premium is too pricey and you're desperate. My H6 Outback recommends 91 as well (which i can NEVER find), but the handful of times I put good ol' 87 in it the drat thing got like 15 city/20 highway. Then there's my dad with his ES300 who complains about the poo poo fuel economy his car gets as he continues to put regular gas in it.
|
|
#
?
Nov 14, 2009 01:42
|
|
|
jamal posted:usually oil in the IC gets pulled through the pcv system by the vacuum in the turbo inlet. gently caress! [tell] me about getting a new motor. My shop is telling me ~$2k in parts. What should I be paying for a new block or a rebuild? Help me not get ripped off AI. I'm at 73k, so I think that's too far gone for good will. I hate my life, AND I probably won't do Laguna Seca in Dec. edit: $5500 including new block and all labor. Son of a bitch. I'm going to keep an eye on the oil and run this bitch into the ground and use the money saved for a full cosworth shortblock at some point. Laguna Seca is on!
nm fucked around with this message at 05:00 on Nov 14, 2009 |
|
#
?
Nov 14, 2009 01:42
|
|
|
Just got a brand new Forester, and the dealer keeps sending me notices for a 3750 mi service, which I guess includes an oil change. The owner's manual doesn't recommend an oil change until 7500. Should I go in and have my oil changed anyway?
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2009 04:38
|
|
|
I think if it's a turbo you're supposed to do 3750.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2009 04:39
|
|
|
warwick5s posted:I think if it's a turbo you're supposed to do 3750. It's non-turbo, but I read somewhere that you should do your first oil change after you break in your engine at about 3K miles. Is this true?
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2009 04:46
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 14, 2024 20:28 |
|
|
Vladimir Putin posted:It's non-turbo, but I read somewhere that you should do your first oil change after you break in your engine at about 3K miles. Is this true?
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2009 05:11
|
|