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wormil
Sep 12, 2002

Hulk will smoke you!

ChaoticSeven posted:

I'm working on a new OP so if theres anything in particular or certain websites and resources you'd like to see mentioned (such as specific books, important folk in woodworking, people whos work inspires you or you find fascinating) start thinking of those now and I'll try to work in what I can.

Books I've previously recommended.
http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?action=showpost&postid=342729921&forumid=210

And to that list I would add: Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking: volumes 1,2 & 3.

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ChaoticSeven
Aug 11, 2005

wormil posted:

Books I've previously recommended.
http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?action=showpost&postid=342729921&forumid=210

And to that list I would add: Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking: volumes 1,2 & 3.

Gotcha. Been super busy, but still working on it.

Anyone need a router? Perhaps take a look at this. Don't know how long it will last though.

http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-561...T8RGH56RCA1684F

LordOfThePants
Sep 25, 2002

ChaoticSeven posted:

Gotcha. Been super busy, but still working on it.

Anyone need a router? Perhaps take a look at this. Don't know how long it will last though.

http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-561...T8RGH56RCA1684F

My folk's just bought me that for my birthday (I was using Dad's old Craftsman router before) and it seems like a pretty good kit so far. $119 is actually a little high for it - I saw it for under $100 (I want to say ~$95) in late September. I can't figure out the pricing on it considering the body grip router alone is more than the combo kit with both bases.

The case it comes in is huge but there's plenty of storage inside. I've never used a 1/2 shank router before and the difference it makes is amazing. Now I've got all these ideas for router-centric projects in mind (hence my asking about the Porter-Cable dovetail jig earlier).

huge sesh
Jun 9, 2008

Does anyone know of a good, simple bed design that would require a minimum of wood cutting? I don't have a whole lot of tools, but I'd like to get three feet or so off the ground if possible.

McBeth
Jul 11, 2006
Odeipus ruined a great sex life by asking too many questions.
I am looking for some cheap or free online woodworking patterns, where do you guys go or are there books you prefer (yes I know there are a ton out there)? Furniture making mostly...

ChaoticSeven
Aug 11, 2005

McBeth posted:

I am looking for some cheap or free online woodworking patterns, where do you guys go or are there books you prefer (yes I know there are a ton out there)? Furniture making mostly...

http://www.finewoodworking.com/blog/free-plans

http://plans.the3house.com/

I haven't gotten the chance to build much furniture aside from a couple dovetailed cedar chests but I don't think you can go wrong getting any book that has Sam Maloof or George Nakashima name or work in it. That's the style of work I want the time, tools, wood and ability to create.

willjo3
Mar 5, 2004
superfluous asshole
Here's my two recent projects:

First is a new desk for my office at home. 8x3 feet, red oak plywood, with fruitwood stain to match my bookshelves, and a couple of coats of polyurethane. I used Ikea legs because they're extremely cheap and get the job done. Also, a roll 3/4 inch veneer saved the whole project from looking like extreme poo poo. Underneath, I've mounted some pegboard to achieve the wire and accessory management that seems so popular on the internet these days.


Click here for the full 800x600 image.



Click here for the full 800x600 image.


Second is a shoeshine kit, made with leftover wood from the desk project. Not pretty, but super functional.


Click here for the full 800x600 image.



Click here for the full 800x600 image.



Click here for the full 800x600 image.

Lets Play Arson
Aug 5, 2007
I've got a real silly question, but where in the UK would you recommend buying good quality wood?

Until now i've been making everything out of wood bought from diy stores like Wickes and B&Q, and it's always been real awful stuff but suitable for what I was making. Although i'm now starting to plan for building a stringed instrument, and for that i'm going to need much better wood than i'd get at a diy store.

Thumposaurus
Jul 24, 2007

Lets Play Arson posted:

I've got a real silly question, but where in the UK would you recommend buying good quality wood?

Until now i've been making everything out of wood bought from diy stores like Wickes and B&Q, and it's always been real awful stuff but suitable for what I was making. Although i'm now starting to plan for building a stringed instrument, and for that i'm going to need much better wood than i'd get at a diy store.

I don't know off hand, but if you ask over at the ReRanch forums there are quite a few guys in the UK that can point you in the right direction.

complex
Sep 16, 2003

New homeowner here.

I'm replacing all of the floor and window moulding in a baby's room. The old stuff was a simple shell moulding, all the same, all painted white.

In the course of removing the moulding around the window I took out the interior sill, since it too was painted white. After taking it out I discovered that it was a bit more complex than I thought. The edge facing into the room had a simple wavy profile, but the edge facing the window had a "keystone"-type edge to it.


Click here for the full 2048x1365 image.


Click here for the full 2048x1365 image.


I want to recreate this sill piece. What are the best tools to do this? Assume I have nothing (well, I have a drill and a circular saw, but nothing else).

I'm not adverse to buying new tools; in fact I'd love for this to be an excuse to do so. However, I don't want to buy something to use it only once.

I'm guessing a router with a 1/2" doevetail bit would work for the inside edge? I guess I would need the wave profile bit too. Any suggestions are welcome.

icky
Oct 2, 2005

Lets Play Arson posted:

I've got a real silly question, but where in the UK would you recommend buying good quality wood?

Until now i've been making everything out of wood bought from diy stores like Wickes and B&Q, and it's always been real awful stuff but suitable for what I was making. Although i'm now starting to plan for building a stringed instrument, and for that i'm going to need much better wood than i'd get at a diy store.

Try https://www.lathamtimber.co.uk they are based all over the country and will deliver if you order enough wood.

anaemic
Oct 27, 2004

Lets Play Arson posted:

I've got a real silly question, but where in the UK would you recommend buying good quality wood?

Until now i've been making everything out of wood bought from diy stores like Wickes and B&Q, and it's always been real awful stuff but suitable for what I was making. Although i'm now starting to plan for building a stringed instrument, and for that i'm going to need much better wood than i'd get at a diy store.

If you live anywhere near London, try Touchstone Tonewoods. They specialise in wood for making musical instruments, although they can be a bit grumpy sometimes, especially if you turn up on monday/wednesday when theyre closed to the public.

If you're going to order rather than pick through big piles and select your favourite piece, you should have good luck with Luthiers Mercantile International which although being based in America has good fast shipping and quality materials.

Both those methods are a little pricey though, wood for making (most) musical instruments should be quarter sawn, which makes it more expensive, but if you're just messing around, you can have some luck by going to a normal supplier and fishing through their slab sawn stock, looking for the most central cut through the log and fishing it out, saving you some cash.

grover
Jan 23, 2002

PEW PEW PEW
:circlefap::circlefap::circlefap:
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:circlefap::circlefap::circlefap:
:circlefap::circlefap::circlefap:
:circlefap::circlefap::circlefap:
:circlefap::circlefap::circlefap:

complex posted:

I want to recreate this sill piece. What are the best tools to do this? Assume I have nothing (well, I have a drill and a circular saw, but nothing else).

I'm not adverse to buying new tools; in fact I'd love for this to be an excuse to do so. However, I don't want to buy something to use it only once.

I'm guessing a router with a 1/2" doevetail bit would work for the inside edge? I guess I would need the wave profile bit too. Any suggestions are welcome.
This is most definitely a job for a router and a dovetail bit, but you could probably rig up a way to do a reasonable facsimile with a table saw and an angle-cutting jig in a pinch. It's OK, though- routers are a shop essential, and not a bad tool to add to your shop. You'll need a router and a router table for this project. If you think you'll be a hobbyist, buy it, you'll be glad you have it. You can build or buy the table. Otherwise, if you ask around, you can probably borrow a router from a friend/coworker; anyone who does woodworking will have one.

wormil
Sep 12, 2002

Hulk will smoke you!
Yeah, dovetail bit, router table and sacrificial fence.

ASSTASTIC
Apr 27, 2003

Hey Gusy!
Anyone see this tablesaw that's on sale during black friday?

http://bfads.net/Dewalt-10-Portable-Table-Saw-at-Home-Depot

What do you guys think? I know its probably not the most accurate with thousand dollar fence, but you think this one would be fairly accurate for a small shop?

wormil
Sep 12, 2002

Hulk will smoke you!

ASSTASTIC posted:

Anyone see this tablesaw that's on sale during black friday?

http://bfads.net/Dewalt-10-Portable-Table-Saw-at-Home-Depot

What do you guys think? I know its probably not the most accurate with thousand dollar fence, but you think this one would be fairly accurate for a small shop?

As long as you understand the limitations of a direct drive saw and don't get overly ambitious with it, it should be fine.

Slugworth
Feb 18, 2001

If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!
That looks to be the newest version of the model I bought a couple years ago, and I've loved it. I am just a hobbyist, not a contractor or anything, but I have absolutely no complaints with it at all. Used it extensively on 3/4" brazilian cherry, and it never slowed down.

wormil
Sep 12, 2002

Hulk will smoke you!
Well crap, I wrote up a whole post with pictures of my previous projects and it just vanished without posting when I clicked submit.

ChaoticSeven
Aug 11, 2005

That sucks. I always control C my longer posts. Write it again, I'm interested.

aluminumonkey
Jun 19, 2002

Reggie loves tacos
Trying to find the right table saw is driving me mad. I would like it to last years and years like my dad's Shop Smith. Right now I want something to start with, but don't want to have to repurchase in a few years time. Any hints?

wormil
Sep 12, 2002

Hulk will smoke you!

sparticus posted:

Trying to find the right table saw is driving me mad. I would like it to last years and years like my dad's Shop Smith. Right now I want something to start with, but don't want to have to repurchase in a few years time. Any hints?

http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2819334&userid=30468&perpage=40&pagenumber=2#post352984282

How much are you willing to spend?

wormil fucked around with this message at 00:39 on Nov 23, 2009

aluminumonkey
Jun 19, 2002

Reggie loves tacos
http://southjersey.craigslist.org/tls/1472469563.html

how does this look? I can't tell if it is the same model or not.

I wouldn't mind going to $800-1000.

wormil
Sep 12, 2002

Hulk will smoke you!

sparticus posted:

http://southjersey.craigslist.org/tls/1472469563.html

how does this look? I can't tell if it is the same model or not.

I wouldn't mind going to $800-1000.

Looks like a good deal to me.

AARP LARPer
Feb 19, 2005

THE DARK SIDE OF SCIENCE BREEDS A WEAPON OF WAR

Buglord
Are there other table saws that offer a similar level of protection as the SawStop technology?

[edit: in other words, do I have to buy a SawStop saw to get that protection?]

Thanks.

AARP LARPer fucked around with this message at 01:38 on Nov 24, 2009

ChaoticSeven
Aug 11, 2005

In four words, yes.

AARP LARPer
Feb 19, 2005

THE DARK SIDE OF SCIENCE BREEDS A WEAPON OF WAR

Buglord
Great, thanks for the answer!

I've been checking links and reading and taking things in. I just finished reading many, many pages of this thread and took away a lot of good info, but somehow in all of it, I've missed hand tools.

So, if you wouldn't mind indulging me...

What would comprise a basic set of hand tools for someone looking to make a basic table and bookshelf?

LordOfThePants
Sep 25, 2002

Saw this over at SMC in the Deals forum, Peachtree woodworking is having their Black Friday sale all week:

http://www.ptreeusa.com/black_friday_09.htm

I've been eying the CMT bowl and tray kit for a long time so I picked up their version for $60 to give it a shot. I'm a little worried my router won't be up to the task - it's a 1.75HP router and my Weekend Woodworking book says you should use a 2.25+ HP router for bowl routing, but I figure worse case, I'll remove a bunch of material with a drill before I route out the inside (I believe the CMT DVD suggests this anyway).

I also picked up some Jorgensen hand clamps and some toggle clamps for a taper jig I'm going to build. A couple smaller items and I ended up spending almost $100.

ASSTASTIC
Apr 27, 2003

Hey Gusy!
Checked out that Dewalt Table Saw yesterday at Home Depot. No wonder its not sale. It is utter poo poo :( Not wasting my money on it.

McBeth
Jul 11, 2006
Odeipus ruined a great sex life by asking too many questions.
I've been looking into making puzzle boxes lately. I used this pattern (http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2009/07/building_a_mystery_box.html) and made one out of bookboard (heavy cardboard) and it looks good, well it looks like crap, I printed out the design and glued it to the board and then cut it out with a box knife, but the design looks good. Any suggestions on how to do this with wood? the joins are really tight, I was looking into a batch done with a laser cutting machine at a local trophy shop but I'd love to be able to do it all by hand. What do you think? jig saw, scroll saw? Anyone have experience with these?

LordOfThePants
Sep 25, 2002

McBeth posted:

I've been looking into making puzzle boxes lately. I used this pattern (http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2009/07/building_a_mystery_box.html) and made one out of bookboard (heavy cardboard) and it looks good, well it looks like crap, I printed out the design and glued it to the board and then cut it out with a box knife, but the design looks good. Any suggestions on how to do this with wood? the joins are really tight, I was looking into a batch done with a laser cutting machine at a local trophy shop but I'd love to be able to do it all by hand. What do you think? jig saw, scroll saw? Anyone have experience with these?

You could probably do it with a Dovetail jig and a straight bit in the router.

ChaoticSeven could probably say for sure (I think he owns one), but the Leigh D4R should be able to be set up to cut the sides of the pieces. For the locking strips, you could set up the pieces in the Leigh jig on a long board, cut the groove, and then rip it free on the tablesaw. If you had a scroll saw, that should work too (I've hardly used a scroll saw so I can't say for sure).

goddinpotty
Sep 11, 2001

by Ozmaugh
Hey woodworkers, I'm a working chef and I'm trying to build a pasta guitar or chitarra. I'm going from the plans here mostly: http://www.math.columbia.edu/~bayer/Chitarra/

You can buy these at sur la table but they are lame and spindly and not durable looking at all. I want to be able to tighten individual strings so that I don't have to deal with the stray slack one (as outlined in the first link).

The last time I worked with woodcutting was as a boyscout and I was like 12. This isn't a terribly difficult project, but what are some ways to idiotproof it and make it sturdy? Would a hand drill work or would I want a drill press?

mcrandello
Mar 30, 2001

goddinpotty posted:

The last time I worked with woodcutting was as a boyscout and I was like 12. This isn't a terribly difficult project, but what are some ways to idiotproof it and make it sturdy? Would a hand drill work or would I want a drill press?

Drill press, definitely. You might be able to get by barely with one of those bracket things that clamps onto the drill but just no. Even a cheapo drill press from Harbor Freight would be a vast improvement over hand drilling it, and here's why:

In this design the string spacing is determined by accurately placing those tuning pins on the side of the box. If the pin is even at a little bit of an angle to one side it will affect where the wire travels over that metal rod and give you uneven pasta widths. How much of an issue this presents is up to you of course. If you have a woodcraft in the area or a cabinet maker they may be willing to let you use a machine to do this step (I've heard/read that there are places that will rent 'time' on their machines but I never personally ran across one that has or inquired.)

goddinpotty
Sep 11, 2001

by Ozmaugh

mcrandello posted:

knowledge

Thanks - you may have just saved me a lot of money and time and pain.

DJJustice
Sep 7, 2006

UNTOPPSABLE
I just found out yesterday from my dad (who's been a carpenter for about 40+ years) that up until the 70's and early 80's that pallets were made from oak, maple, and walnut (especially down south). This is relevant because I'm making a matching pair of nightstands and checking his workshop for wood when he pulls out about 60 total feet of 1-3/4" x 1-3/4" red oak, and they don't have nail holes, knots, or anything. Beautiful, clean oak.




He's had the wood for almost thirty years, from when he was a foreman at a local lumberyard and they would THROW IT AWAY. It ended up taking about two hours to square everything down on the jointer, but the finished wood absolutely blew my mind - and it was used for PALLETS. What the hell!

puffin
Dec 19, 2000
Woo! Just got this baby for €137. It was listed in non-working condition and all I had to do was replace the €14 carbon brushes.

Only registered members can see post attachments!

elegant drapery
Oct 11, 2004
Recapping my dresser progress, with some new work aswell:
Tools used: Various clamps, 22 year old radial arm saw, drill.

Started as this:


Which quickly escalated to this:


I then used a bunch of scrap:


To make this jig to run boards through.

Since I am lacking in the dado blade/router/chisel department.. I'm using the radial arm saw set to rip and elevated to make notches in what would be the bottom of my boards. I had to do 3 passes per board to make the drawer bottom fit snugly... yeah way too many cuts.

After running all of this

through the saw...

I did a lot of corner clamping and drilling to make all of these:

Squinting girlfriend is 5'8 for reference
--- edit: this is new as of today, from here below
This is how the bottom of the drawer looks:


I put all the drawers in, made the stops in the back, and did the sides of the dresser and the front vertical trim:

Once the horizontal trim (in between drawers) is on you won't be able to see inside the bottom drawers like you can from the picture.

The top drawer is going to be a shelf with a fake drawer-face that will fold either up or down. I usually have tons of clutter on top of my dresser.. and now it will be IN it so I can have my nice souvenirs and etc on top.

I put a small container of minwax inside so you can get an idea of this things massiveness:




All that is left to do is the top and the back, the horizontal trim , some light puttying/sanding, make/buy handles... and the fake drawer. I should be getting the wood for top/back tomorrow so I might have another update soon.

God drat do I want a router+kreg jig

elegant drapery fucked around with this message at 03:06 on Dec 10, 2009

dyne
May 9, 2003
[blank]
So here's my current project, it's a bartop for my kitchen. I don't have all that much woodworking experience and all I know about woodworking comes from the internet. I've built a couple simple desks but that's about it.

First, I bought 13 1"x2"x6' pieces of red oak from lowes and began chopping them up. Here's my basement:

Click here for the full 1024x768 image.

All chopped up

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Here I've started gluing them end on end. I lined up the pieces on an aluminum cutting guide I bought a while ago, pushed them together, and clamped them down. It worked pretty well

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All the pieces glued back together into 6' sections and lined up

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Gluing them edge to edge with those same aluminum cutting guides and some clamps. I need more clamps.

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more of the same

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Finished gluing them together, and took them to a local mill to have it drum sanded pretty flat. I actually managed to glue the boards together pretty drat well and they only took off around 1/16"

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Gluing one of the edges on

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Done gluing and set in place. My wife and I have completely remodeled the kitchen in the background (including removing a tile floor, sanding and refinishing the 75 year old hardwood floor). The cabinets in the background are the crappy ready-to-finish ones from lowes that we stained and finished, and I plan on finishing the bartop to match

Click here for the full 1024x768 image.

Another view. I just bought that router today, and am going to order router bits so I can give the bartop a nice edge

Click here for the full 1024x768 image.


Now a question: How should I attach the bartop? I currently have a 3/4" piece of plywood screwed into the studs of the half-wall there and the top is just set on top of it. I had originally thought to just put a bunch of screws up through the bottom, but I'm worried about the wood swelling and splitting somewhere down the line.

Also, any suggestions on what kind of finish to put on it? I was just going to use wipe on poly

Not an Anthem
Apr 28, 2003

I'm a fucking pain machine and if you even touch my fucking car I WILL FUCKING DESTROY YOU.
xpost from projects thread

My mom gave me two drop leafs her mom got at a flea market, black walnut but warped as hell from sitting in our basement. Chopped them back into planks, joined and planed them, glued them up into 2.5"x2.5"x42" blocks, realized the max the shop lathe could handle was 35.5-36", cut off the ends (saving for candlesticks, for later). Pulled the tailstock forward in z axis to meet my taper and cut a leg (took me all day for my first leg, holy poo poo). Realized the taper was waaaay too large (always make a model/mockup) and ran it through the next day with a much smaller taper, hit nail on head and banged out 3 more legs. Halfway through I had to use my hand as a lathe steady then the shop super pulled out a home made steady he made of aluminum and rollerblade wheels, but it didn't allow through-passes so I had to cut it in about 3 sections including the end near the tailstock. Every now and then I pulled it off and used a machine sander on the end where the dog was screwed on so I could size down the dog and cut closer to the foot of the leg. When all that was said and done and close as I could get it I centered the tailstock and cut tenons in to be snug with the holes in the tabletop, had to do this twice, three times for one leg, even though I was checking with a digital caliper. Pays to be precise.

Spalted white oak bookmatched tabletop, urban felled (no trees cut down intentionally, very "green" blah blah blah). Black walnut legs, 3 layers of tung oil, tops of tenons were filled a bit with homemade filler from the walnut sawdust. Veeeery shiny although the picture doesn't do it justice.


Click here for the full 1536x2048 image.

Under it is a white ash pseudobookmatched frame, the top/sides are sort of bookmatched. Didn't turn out as cool as I thought it would.

Had to turn the legs in 3 sections cos they were so loooong and I only had a home made lathe steady rest (roller blade wheels)

Click here for the full 2048x1536 image.


Parts mostly done for desk

Click here for the full 2048x1536 image.


Rough cut proper profile from 3/4" mdf for 14" hemisphere, turned it on a lathe. Traced out entire 14" circle on paper, measured in 3/4" increments and figured out diameters of circles, cut out of 3/4" mdf and glued up with threaded rod as the clamp (drill centers first obviously). Throw it on outboard lathe with an outboard toolrest and shave away, its actually a lot easier to match the curve than one thinks, had my paper circle I could match it with though. Very important to realize the glue lines are way harder/denser than the mdf core so when sanding/finishing use a hard backer (mdf) and sand the glue lines more as you'll take off the mdf core faster. My final lamp has some interior ridges because its drat impossible to get it smooth.

Click here for the full 2048x1536 image.


..so I could use it as a mold for vacuum forming two pieces of styrene and joining them as a lampshade

Click here for the full 2048x1536 image.


..to make this lamp

Click here for the full 453x604 image.


Second ever turned bowl from scrap green white oak

Click here for the full 2048x1536 image.


First ever, looks uggo and has a crack, same wood different face of the tree

Click here for the full 2048x1536 image.


aforementioned turntable stand, out of an old pallet (white oak & white ash) and a little 22 gauge bent&cut sheet metal to hold the album youre listening to

Click here for the full 604x453 image.

McBeth
Jul 11, 2006
Odeipus ruined a great sex life by asking too many questions.

dyne posted:

So here's my current project, it's a bartop for my kitchen. I don't have all that much woodworking experience and all I know about woodworking comes from the internet. I've built a couple simple desks but that's about it.


wow that looks great, I wish I had the tools and the space....

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dyne
May 9, 2003
[blank]

McBeth posted:

wow that looks great, I wish I had the tools and the space....

Thanks, buying a house is a great way to get more space (and a great excuse to buy more tools :) )

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