|
Xanieth posted:They're the race tires. Is it worth replacing month-old Shinkos with these, or maybe saving these for later? I'd personally prefer them over the Shinkos, but that's my 2c. I'd also be saving/looking for some street tires...track tires are, after all, designed for the track and are less than ideal when it comes to street riding in anything but good conditions. They'll still stick alright, but they're going to have a hard time displacing water and coming up to proper temp without the heavy acceleration and braking that you usually get on the track.
|
#
?
Oct 1, 2009 00:16
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 23, 2024 10:36 |
|
|
Looking for an opinion by resident tire expert... How's this wear pattern look? Healthy?  Click here for the full 912x684 image.
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2009 01:18
|
|
|
My track bike needs a new rear tire. The NESBA tire guy has Dunlop 209 GP-A's right now. The tires currently on my bike I believe are Pirelli's equivalent to the GP-A's, the Diablo Supercorsa's or something. It's at the shop right now so unfortunately I can't go confirm that. Anyway my question is would it be ok to run the Dunlop on the rear and the Pirelli up front?
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2009 01:40
|
|
|
Blakeem bin Bustin posted:My track bike needs a new rear tire. The NESBA tire guy has Dunlop 209 GP-A's right now. The tires currently on my bike I believe are Pirelli's equivalent to the GP-A's, the Diablo Supercorsa's or something. It's at the shop right now so unfortunately I can't go confirm that. Anyway my question is would it be ok to run the Dunlop on the rear and the Pirelli up front? You're mixing a soft sidewall and a stiff sidewall...it's going to cause different handling characteristics at the front and the back of the bike. It may feel a little funny, but it's not going to cause you to crash. I ran the reverse setup (pirelli rear, dunlop front) because I liked the additional feedback from the stiff sidewall front and the way the pirelli rear slid/went off, and went quite quick on it, but I don't know how i'd feel about the other way around. The front's going to move quite a bit more because the sidewall's going to deform as you load it up, whereas the rear tire's just going to stay stiff and not deform much. Could be a big deal, could be minor, really depends on your riding style and what you like out of your tires. I'd just go with the dunlops front and rear if you can afford it. See how you like stiff sidewall tires. If you don't like it, you learned something about tires, and if you do, then you learned something about tires and have tires you like. Spiffness posted:Looking for an opinion by resident tire expert...  Click here for the full 912x684 image. Looks like you've got some minor issues with rebound. You can see that you've got a smooth area (the blue) that indicates that the tire isn't being pushed as hard there, and the buildup on the back part of the siping (the red) shows that you're having some minor issues with rebound that are causing the ridge. Nothing major though, tire looks well used and good. Maybe overheating a little but that's hard to tell without having some understanding of what your cold to hot increase is. Looks good though. If you're running consistent times on the asphault, I'd try dialing in or out a click of rebound damping (it's hard to tell exactly what you should be doing without seeing the tire and the wear), and seeing if it wears better or worse...either way, it still looks drat good and I wouldn't be overly concerned about it.
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2009 02:37
|
|
|
I'm a total tire noob, and feel like my stock tires are at the beginning of the end. I have 8300 miles on them, and I ride an 08 r6 (meaning I've been on these tires for over a year). Here's a couple pictures, of the back and front tires.   Recently moved to AZ as well, and though I tend to park in the shade (and garage it when I'm home) the dry weather also has me a bit worried from the wet WA weather I was used to. I guess I'm kinda curious from the seasoned folk how soon I need a new set.
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2009 01:04
|
|
|
Taisa posted:I'm a total tire noob, and feel like my stock tires are at the beginning of the end. I have 8300 miles on them, and I ride an 08 r6 (meaning I've been on these tires for over a year). Your front looks pretty squared off, and the rear looks like it's about done. Unless you're going to do trackdays, I'd run a sport touring rear and a street/track front. Or sport touring front/rear. Depends on how you ride and how often you want to replace tires.
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2009 03:10
|
|
|
Currently I'm commuting about 30 miles a day, 5 days a week. No track days, as it's my only transportation for the moment so I can't afford wadding it on a track.
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2009 03:29
|
|
|
Taisa posted:Currently I'm commuting about 30 miles a day, 5 days a week. No track days, as it's my only transportation for the moment so I can't afford wadding it on a track. May as well go with sport touring front and rear then...they'll handle commuting better. No need to get them up to temp for max grip, coming up to temp quicker, etc. Plus they'll last longer.
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2009 04:02
|
|
|
Little update on my Pilot Road 2ct's: The bike goes around corners! I actually like them rather a lot, though I suspect the improvement might have more to do with the fact that they aren't shaped like the bottom half of a hexagon like my old tires were. They stick well in cool conditions and seem to hold whatever line you're on very well. I think they've got more of a rounded profile rather than a V profile, at least that's what they feel like and I like how that gives a linear steering response. If they do slip or lock, they're quick to find grip again and track around the corner. I know they're pretty much the top of the line sport touring tire, and maybe I don't need all that, but if the wear is good I can't see a reason to go with something else. I'll see how they handle the winter weather soon enough.
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2009 10:55
|
|
|
Does this tyre look ok? I was out practising some emergency braking, stopped for a moment to let the brakes cool down a bit, and noticed my rear tyre looked a bit torn up compared to the front. Click here for the full 800x723 image.  Click here for the full 800x626 image. There was a small flap of rubber (~2cm x 1cm, maybe 1mm thick) attached to the tyre (at the above location I think), but by the time I got home to a camera, it had gone, and I can't find any areas that look like they are missing a significant amount of rubber, just some scuffs.
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2009 10:19
|
|
|
What sort of emergency braking were you practicing on the side of the tire? Occasionally you'll hit something that'll take a minor gouge out of the side of your tire, it's not really anything to worry about if it's not that deep. Getting some funny wear on the rear tire during emergency braking practice is pretty normal, you're usually doing a lot of heavy acceleration and braking and that abuses the tire a bit.
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2009 15:12
|
|
|
The treads on my bikes almost always get worn into wedges from braking. At least on the tire centers.
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2009 16:57
|
|
|
Z3n posted:What sort of emergency braking were you practicing on the side of the tire? Occasionally you'll hit something that'll take a minor gouge out of the side of your tire, it's not really anything to worry about if it's not that deep. The new rider sort  I did manage to lock it up a few times, but it was probably from something else. That's just when I noticed it.
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2009 03:04
|
|
|
tzam posted:The new rider sort Ahh, then no, you just clipped something or ran something over. Check your pressures and don't worry about it 
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2009 04:03
|
|
|
Ok Z3n, read my fortune.
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2009 05:29
|
|
|
SM tires... Does it feel lovely or wear fast? It looks pretty alright, although that tearing around the edge is odd. It's kind of a pain in the rear end to read tires without actually seeing them in person and seeing how they wear over the course of the day, and even seeing them in person, they're just a part of the puzzle 
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2009 05:35
|
|
|
They feel sticky to me. Well... mostly sticky. I'm four track days in, and they're about 2/3 gone at the edges, and 1/3 gone in the middle. I'm thinking the tearing at the edges is due to the tread pattern, I'll have to take a look at someone else's Avons when I get a chance.
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2009 05:47
|
|
|
Thruxton tire talk time. I realize I've mentioned this before but am about ready to bite the bullet and buy the damned things. Not quite sure why I have such a resistance to replacing my obviously dead tires. Stock Metzler Lasertec Front: 100/90x18 (33psi rec) Rear: 130/80x17 (38pis rec) These lasted two years, 6200 miles. In addition to their short lifespan the Metzlers find and follow every groove in the road and are incapable of holding grip over painted lines and such. The Triumph boards I read also complain of a tendency to wobble. I've noticed that but won't blame it on the tire just yet. I think the Thruxton needs a steering dampener. Upgrade Avon RoadRiders Front: 110/80 (35pis) Rear: 140/80 (40pis) SportDemons are an option, and much loved by this thread, but I'm reading they wear quicker than I care for. The Avon's are about the same price and said to wear well and maintain grip. The larger sizes should fit on the bike without modification. My only concern is there may be more to the cost/benefit analysis of the larger tires - particularly the front - than I'm considering. Thoughts?
|
|
#
?
Nov 14, 2009 16:57
|
|
|
Z3n posted:SM tires... Z3n are you like the tire whisperer? Do you need to touch, smell and taste them to hear what they are trying to say?
|
|
#
?
Nov 14, 2009 17:10
|
|
|
Ola posted:Z3n are you like the tire whisperer? Do you need to touch, smell and taste them to hear what they are trying to say? *licks front tire* "2mm too much trail, not enough dampening, and you're taking the wrong line through Turn Seven." Dagen H fucked around with this message at 18:39 on Nov 14, 2009 |
|
#
?
Nov 14, 2009 18:35
|
|
|
Bucephalus posted:*licks front tire* If only...it's more like I've destroyed enough tires to start to get some idea of why it happens. Most of the advice I can give comes from at least one set of prematurely toasted tires because I didn't know what I was doing. Ola posted:Z3n are you like the tire whisperer? Do you need to touch, smell and taste them to hear what they are trying to say? Tire wear is a progression over the course of a day...as the track/air heats up, the tires adjust, and you sometimes have to adjust pressures to match. If you get good wear in the morning and lovely wear in the afternoon, it's probably because you need to up your pressures a few PSI to compensate for the gain in temp on the track and in the air. Conversely, if the bike feels like poo poo in the morning but great in the afternoon, you probably were running a little high in the morning and it got about right as things heated up. You'll also see changes from pace, so it's often pointless to really look at the tires until your pace is fairly consistent. If you're improving around 2 seconds a session, as people often do, by the end of the day you'll put completely different stresses on the tires. OF, the avons should be fine. Up a size shouldn't cause any issues either. I'd go for it.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2009 02:22
|
|
|
While bigger tyres may fit on the rims, consider that the contact patch leant over may be reduced or the shape altered in a way that's sub-optimal. But I suppose you've also looked at what other Triumph users have done, which will be a pretty good guide to what works and doesn't. Remember though that people's first impressions comparing a brand new tyre to a square, shagged-out one will always tend to make the new rubber feel better than it will be in 500 miles. This is especially if you're adding width at the front: once it's squared off slightly, you may find steering issues start to appear. If you're experiencing more than a bit of headshake (normal anyway with a naked bike with a skinny front hoop and wide bars), would it be stating the blindingly obvious to say it's worth checking the condition and tightness of your head bearings? OrangeFurious posted:Thruxton tire talk time. I realize I've mentioned this before but am about ready to bite the bullet and buy the damned things. Not quite sure why I have such a resistance to replacing my obviously dead tires.
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2009 12:57
|
|
|
Saga posted:If you're experiencing more than a bit of headshake (normal anyway with a naked bike with a skinny front hoop and wide bars), would it be stating the blindingly obvious to say it's worth checking the condition and tightness of your head bearings? Thanks for the advice - Zen too. I haven't done an inspection of the head bearings, but I'm inclined to believe the headshake is unrelated. It's pretty minimal and has been with the bike since I brought it home - I noticed it on first ride. This is also the reason I don't suspect it to be tire related. A friend of mine has an '07 Bonnie and noticed similar. I'm inclined to believe it's just the nature of the beast.
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2009 04:11
|
|
|
OrangeFurious posted:Upgrade Fixed that for you.
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2009 06:13
|
|
|
bike: F4i--mostly commuting, some street fun riding and some track days. I'm in love with Pilot Power 2CT's and looking to get another set. My front 2CT is a thousand miles or so till replacement and my rear Battlax BT016 isn't far behind it. I DID like the BT-016, but very slightly less than the 2CT I had before. Tires unlimited has a FULL SET set of Pilot Power's for $229.00 shipped http://www.tiresunlimited.com/Michelin_powercombo.htm Otherwise I would get the 2CT's from Tire Express again for $319 shipped http://www.tireexpress.com/prod.cfm/fid/6/pid/18998 Any thoughts on how the Pilot powers compare to the 2CT's? Anyone ever order from Tires Unlimited?
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2009 06:47
|
|
|
aventari posted:bike: F4i--mostly commuting, some street fun riding and some track days. I'd get the PPs. The 2CTs are the same compound with a softer strip on the side. For relatively casual track riding I'd just save your money, although you may want to consider a set of rims with dot races on them or something.
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2009 07:50
|
|
|
Nothing wrong with the Powers for your purposes, given the price difference. Powers don't perform particularly well in the cold in my experience (just removed them from my Hornet, where they are standard fit), but I don't think there's any reason why the 2CTs would be better in that respect. They feel very similar in ordinary road use, as you would expect (I used 2cts on my Duke II for a while). If you're commuting mostly, not sure I'd choose those tyres. That's pretty similar to my mix of use, and having done lots of track days on second-rate sports and good sports touring rubber, I'd go for something more along the lines of the latter. But then I don't really like Michelins anyway. aventari posted:bike: F4i--mostly commuting, some street fun riding and some track days.
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2009 07:59
|
|
|
Saga posted:Nothing wrong with the Powers for your purposes, given the price difference. Powers don't perform particularly well in the cold in my experience (just removed them from my Hornet, where they are standard fit), but I don't think there's any reason why the 2CTs would be better in that respect. They feel very similar in ordinary road use, as you would expect (I used 2cts on my Duke II for a while). OEM rubber is different from the compound that you get if you just buy normal tires. But I agree that PPs take a little time to come up to temp in the cold.
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2009 08:01
|
|
|
Thanks both, I'll go with the pp's due to the great price. Saga posted:If you're commuting mostly, not sure I'd choose those tyres. That's pretty similar to my mix of use, and having done lots of track days on second-rate sports and good sports touring rubber, I'd go for something more along the lines of the latter. But then I don't really like Michelins anyway. I've tracked worse tires (Shinkos) and they were downright scary once they started to get hot. I think touring rubber wouldn't handle the track much better. My long term plan IS to grab a set of rims and mount some race rubber and then get sport/touring rubber like you say.
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2009 08:23
|
|
|
What pressures should I be running for Dunlop Q2s (track/street; the new hyped successor to the Qualifiers) on an F4i? Some people were telling me stuff varying from 27F/22R cold to 30F/30R cold at my last trackday at Carolina Motorsports Park. Ended up running 29/29 and dropped a couple pounds when it started raining. Any input?
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2009 21:29
|
|
|
lokigoesrawr posted:What pressures should I be running for Dunlop Q2s (track/street; the new hyped successor to the Qualifiers) on an F4i? Some people were telling me stuff varying from 27F/22R cold to 30F/30R cold at my last trackday at Carolina Motorsports Park. Ended up running 29/29 and dropped a couple pounds when it started raining. Any input? http://www.dunlopmotorcycle.com/tirecatalog_tire.asp?id=108 42psi is the max, which doesn't say much  I wouldn't run 27f/22r, because those are slick/DOT pressures. I'd keep them around 30/30 and adjust according to wear and feedback. If they start getting slick at the end of a session, bump the pressures up a bit, if you feel like you're not getting enough grip and feedback, try dropping them a bit. Make sure, as always, that you're using an accurate tire gauge. There's a lot of varying/conflicting info on what pressures you should run on which type of tires in the rain. Personally, I just leave them be. If I were going to be tracking a bike in the rain, I'd be running rain tires.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2009 22:09
|
|
|
Z3n posted:http://www.dunlopmotorcycle.com/tirecatalog_tire.asp?id=108 This is going to sound retarded but *what* makes a tire gauge accurate? Any links to a decent one? I've just been using some little digital tire gauge I've had for years. It seems consistent at least but I have no idea if it's accurate or not.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2009 22:22
|
|
|
needknees posted:This is going to sound retarded but *what* makes a tire gauge accurate? Any links to a decent one? I've just been using some little digital tire gauge I've had for years. It seems consistent at least but I have no idea if it's accurate or not. Unfortunantly, the easiest way to test one is to hook it up to a test box. I'll test all of mine and mark them on the back with the error. Test boxes are usually available at the track by the tire guys. Or you can test it against one that's known good and compare. Most of the guys I know swear by the little digital ones though, if you find one that's accurate it's usually accurate forever because there's no chance of damaging delicate internal springs and stuff by dropping it or bashing it around.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2009 22:27
|
|
|
I was recently PMed and it was pointed out that we're lacking info on good vendors for tires. I buy almost all of my stuff off of ebay or from tire vendors at the track, so I don't have much experience there. I've heard mixed things about http://www.swmototires.com/, that they're fast but if your order gets screwed up they can be a pain in the rear end to deal with. Anyone have any experiences to share?
|
|
#
?
Dec 12, 2009 19:26
|
|
|
Z3n posted:I was recently PMed and it was pointed out that we're lacking info on good vendors for tires. The one set of tires I've gotten from swmototires was exactly what I wanted, by far the cheapest I could find online, and was shipped incredibly fast. Small sample size but I would definitely give them a shot again.
|
|
#
?
Dec 12, 2009 19:38
|
|
|
How 'bout innertubes? I bought a Mefo Explorer for my KLR, and figured I'd replace the tube while I was at it. The Kawi dealer had two tubes in 90-90-21, a Kawasaki "heavy duty" one for $11, and a Michelin "heavy duty" one for $25. I got the $11 one, but is there really that much difference in innertubes? I figure the tire has all the strength and the tube just has to hold air, so unless you're banging around in the dirt with low pressures a lot, risking pinch flats, it shouldn't matter that much.
|
|
#
?
Dec 13, 2009 17:03
|
|
|
EvilDonald posted:How 'bout innertubes? I bought a Mefo Explorer for my KLR, and figured I'd replace the tube while I was at it. The Kawi dealer had two tubes in 90-90-21, a Kawasaki "heavy duty" one for $11, and a Michelin "heavy duty" one for $25. I got the $11 one, but is there really that much difference in innertubes? I figure the tire has all the strength and the tube just has to hold air, so unless you're banging around in the dirt with low pressures a lot, risking pinch flats, it shouldn't matter that much. 99% of the time you'll be find with any old heavy duty. The michelin ones are ridiculously think and heavy, but in truth almost anything that can get through the carcass, is going to go through any innertube. Heavier will be good if you are running some knarly offroad, where you have to air down real low, but rimlocks would prevent most of those types of flat.
|
|
#
?
Dec 13, 2009 23:35
|
|
|
Z3n posted:I was recently PMed and it was pointed out that we're lacking info on good vendors for tires. I've heard enough horror stories to avoid them. Bike Bandit is reasonably priced with the AMA discount and tires come in a hurry from Cali.
|
|
#
?
Dec 15, 2009 07:32
|
|
|
I used Twisted Throttle this last time and am happy. The tire came quickly and the price was good. And Bike Bandit's always a safe bet.
|
|
#
?
Dec 15, 2009 15:55
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 23, 2024 10:36 |
|
|
I have order twice from American Motorcycle Tire they have always had low prices on the stuff I wanted, and I have had no problems with them.
|
|
#
?
Dec 16, 2009 04:06
|
|
