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Bought a MIG welder, so now i can REALLY make a god awful mess of things on the truck! 
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Nov 5, 2009 14:05
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I pulled my gauge cluster to fix my slightly bouncy tach and wonky OBC pixels (e34). Worked great, but in the process of trying to unlock the steering wheel lock, I accidentally keyed the car on with the cluster removed, which trips the SRS system. I sighed and started to call around for a reset and the first place I called (shameless plug) AnT Automotive in Phoenix AZ, offered to do it for free as long as I come in the morning when they're not busy tomorrow! Awesome! EDIT: Went there. Great bunch of guys. The second I walked in the door the owner Yuriy invited me right into his shop area to give me a tour, and then I brought my car into the bay and he hooked it up to his GT1 and reset everything while we chatted about cars and such. While under the hood he noticed the temporary bolt I had in my radiator bleed screw hole until the new one I ordered came in, so he walked away for a second and came back with a brand new one for me. He refused to take any money, "All I did was plug into car. No big deal." Now that I'm home I noticed they even have an awesome website, where you can check their appointment book, check your service history, get TSBs and recalls and all sorts of stuff. This place is fuckin' amazing and if there's ever something I can't fix by myself on my car, it's going there. Lowclock fucked around with this message at 20:52 on Nov 6, 2009 |
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Nov 5, 2009 22:38
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GODDAMN HEATER CORE My vents suddenly started puking an evil mist again after my Dad, little brother and probably 10 other people tried to do it about 3 years ago while I was away at college. Parts suck, so I get to do it again. They disassembled the entire dash and seemed to lose about 1 nut for every 5 that was holding the dash together (and probably every clip in the car). So this time I'm doing it the less insane way. I just dropped the column and pulled enough off the dash to bring it out a little ways. After fighting with the weather I got the core out amidst driving back and forth from my parents house to school to work and having no time to work on it. I had to pull off both door panels so I could shut the doors because I have to keep leaving the car in a state of disassembly.   I replaced the blend door actuator too. It'll be nice to actually have varying degrees of air instead of REALLY HOT ALL THE TIME, and later in the process of broken heating equipment, REALLY HOT AIR ALL THE TIME THAT IS FULL OF ANTIFREEZE MIST. e: Also panther body dashes are heavy as all hell. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 03:43 on Nov 6, 2009 |
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Nov 6, 2009 03:39
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Not my car, a Mates, but i dont think a CA20 powered ford corsair should ever sound like this! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cyd6fxXISmo
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Nov 6, 2009 09:15
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Last weekend I jumped a friends car and checked the battery/alternator. Yesterday I ordered new ignition coil for the Volvo. $128 was the cheapest I could find. 
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Nov 6, 2009 15:21
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I changed the tyres on my car, un-froze all 4 brakes (clutch drop  ) & sent it for the MOT, meaning I'll have a huge list of things to do next week 
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Nov 6, 2009 15:24
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Adjusted the stupid forge diverter valve on my car. Seemed to be too loose and leaking boost, it's much better now. Also ordered some parts, including a new drivers side mirror, reading light switches, power mirror switch, and memory seat switch. Oh, and an MTM stage 1 ECU. Anybody want to buy some 3 bar eproms for an Audi urS4/6? I decided I don't really want to mess around pressing them in and got a great deal on the ECU with my stock one as a partial trade.
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Nov 7, 2009 03:32
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Cleaned the AFE K&N style filter on the M3 - 6000 miles and it was covered. I can't believe how much dirt the intake system on this car takes in.
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Nov 7, 2009 03:34
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Just got done putting my brand spankin new Injen RSI in. I never thought I'd hear that kind of idle purr from my car before. Edit, Picture (yes I know about the radiator spray, I haven't cleaned it after fixing it):  TOUCHE LEVAR BURTON fucked around with this message at 05:09 on Nov 7, 2009 |
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Nov 7, 2009 04:56
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Pried out the old SID to repair it. Now the car doesn't make noise. No dongs, no simulated blinker click, nothing. Not sure if I want to put it back.
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Nov 7, 2009 04:57
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82Daion posted:I installed power mirrors from another '81 240 to replace the crappy, deglazing manual mirrors that came with my 245. Since the mirrors run off their own harness, incorporating it/them into the existing wiring was as easy as connecting a spade connector to the fuse panel and finding a ground. The worst part of the whole process was removing the front seats so that the wiring harness could run under the front-seat carpeting. All in all, a worthwhile modification, since visibility to the rear is increased, I can adjust both mirrors from the driver's seat, and the passenger mirror holds its position instead of slipping towards the ground at speed. Are the mirrors the small terrible ones or the better, larger ones? I've actually come to like the manual mirrors. I'm downgrading sometime this weekend to a newer pair of 88+ manual mirrors I picked up for $40 because I've found them loads more convenient than the power ones in both my current and past car. Less poo poo To Break™. Also, they're almost twice as big as the stock '84 ones. Then the weekend after that, I'm gonna be ordering transmission mounts and heading to a friend's house who has a usable garage to install them. That will fix the horrible rattling, hopefully.
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Nov 7, 2009 10:35
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Xovaan posted:Are the mirrors the small terrible ones or the better, larger ones? Which mirrors? The manual mirrors were definitely small and terrible; the power ones are somewhat larger and much clearer. They're definitely not like the larger later-era 240 mirrors, though. For content, I also ordered a set of Bilstein Touring Class rear shocks for the wagon. The current shocks are worthless, and in a town full of brick roads, the ride is less than pleasant, so I'm hoping that the replacements will help somewhat.
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Nov 7, 2009 22:54
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My parents bought it! 2001 A6 Quattro 4.2  Click here for the full 1023x765 image. It needs some work, but we'll do it all here and get it set up for when I get my permit in a few months.
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Nov 7, 2009 22:59
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Took off the exhaust yesterday. Who knew a Camry could sound so mean?
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Nov 7, 2009 23:14
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rifles posted:My parents bought it! Are you located in Springfield, Ohio by chance?
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Nov 7, 2009 23:30
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82Daion posted:Are you located in Springfield, Ohio by chance? Sure am.
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Nov 7, 2009 23:35
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rifles posted:Sure am. Cool. I thought I recognized the neighborhood. (I live in Springfield as well when I'm not going to school.)
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Nov 7, 2009 23:45
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Drunk Pledge Driver posted:Took off the exhaust yesterday. Who knew a Camry could sound so mean? open headers are where its at! 
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Nov 8, 2009 00:25
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Went out to the junkyard and pulled the license lamps for my '88 Prelude. Literally pulled: the mounts on the wreck were so rusted I just yanked them free. The corresponding bits of metal on my car are probably also absent due to rust, so I put together a mount using some 1 1/2 inch #6 bolts. You can see the holes where I ran the bolts, through the bumper above the plate. I couldn't get my car started from the junkyard until I fiddled with the battery terminals. So, I grabbed a new positive terminal on my way home.  The old one was utterly corroded, but the battery post is in OK shape. Another nice weekend like this one seems rather unlikely, so this is probably the last work I'll be doing on the car for a while. But the quest for cupholders continues.
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Nov 8, 2009 00:48
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Replaced all the remaining bushings in my rear suspension and the last two ballkjoints. Noticed that my rear shocks and strut tops are blown then wept.
Kotaru fucked around with this message at 02:56 on Nov 8, 2009 |
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Nov 8, 2009 02:53
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Kotaru posted:Replaced all the remaining bushings in my rear suspension and the last two ballkjoints. Noticed that my rear shocks and strut tops are blown then wept. Well at least you've unstuck 75% of the fasteners already to fix them. ;-)
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Nov 8, 2009 03:05
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Fixed a broken windshield wiper switch in a '91 MR2: Disassembled the steering column, removed wiper switch assembly, soldered on extension wires, reassembled. Also, glued down the dash where it was peeling along the defrost vents. Turned out pretty well. 
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Nov 8, 2009 06:26
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Fixed a clutch cable that had frayed all the way through (I didn't even realise that could happen, but I guess after 27 years of use anything is possible) by buying cable of roughly the same diameter from B&Q and then thread it through the old cable sheath using eyelets and tiny u-clamps ... seems to work so far.
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Nov 8, 2009 20:17
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Made it jealous. I'm in San Francisco for the week so I rented a vette .
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Nov 8, 2009 22:16
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Tried to replace an outer tie rod on MY GIRLFRIEND's 99 grand am. Couldn't get the nut off the last turn or so, so I cut it off. Now I can't get the tie rod unthreaded from the steering arm.  Going to try and acquire a torch to heat that bastard up.
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Nov 8, 2009 22:34
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I had an odd dream last night that I was cleaning my truck's engine and removed a pair of odd covers, only to reveal a hidden twin-turbo setup. I was horribly disappointed when I woke up.  Also, Mean Green is a fantastic engine cleaner.
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Nov 9, 2009 00:13
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Cleaned up the headlights using 3M's restoration kit. Before:  After: 
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Nov 9, 2009 06:22
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Waxed the wifes giant SUV for the upcoming winter. It's nice and polished. She didn't notice .
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Nov 9, 2009 06:27
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Had the tow truck drop it at the transmission shop just a couple of blocks over from my apartment. Went in this morning, told them "that's my Honda", and now it's getting a new clutch. *sigh*
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Nov 10, 2009 03:01
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hedge posted:Cleaned up the headlights using 3M's restoration kit. That looks fantastic. Link to the kit you used? My car has the same problem, and I've never been able to get them cleaned good.
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Nov 10, 2009 15:45
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Got the outer tie rod off MY GIRLFRIEND's car. It took 2 pipe wrenches to get the bastard off...Then I realized I was undoing a nut that was just threaded on the rod, and the actual tie rod was a separate piece.  It probably would have came off a lot easier had the torque being applied to the tie rod actually been applied to the tie rod rather than through friction between the two pieces. Note to self: Look at the new part/better inspect parts before taking off the old part. At least the drat car is finished and now just needs aligned.
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Nov 11, 2009 03:03
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CornHolio posted:That looks fantastic. Link to the kit you used? My car has the same problem, and I've never been able to get them cleaned good. It's a steal at $10.
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Nov 11, 2009 03:09
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Comradephate posted:Not my ride, but it was fun, so it counts? double derp. '96 was the first year for vortec, and it's a 5.7L. So, it's an LO5, I think. Cylinders looked surprisingly good though, didn't have to cut down the ridges at the top of the piston travel (proper term?) before dropping the pistons. Enjoying this project immensely. For an engine with rock hard chunks of oil caked on under the intake, the block is in surprisingly good shape. Going to investigate economical ways to get some modest performance gains from it.
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Nov 13, 2009 12:28
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hedge posted:http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/rebates/B001AIZ5HY/ref=dp_rebates_1?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&s=automotive God drat, you ain't kidding! I think I'll throw that in with some Christmas stuff this month. A gift for my car, if you will. I actually bought a second set of lights from someone ($40) because the first ones were so bad... I wonder if I can clean those and sell them.
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Nov 13, 2009 15:52
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Finally gave my Cherokee some much-needed TLC: - SensaTrac shocks and stabalizer - tinted the front windwos to match the factory rears/hatch - installed a beefy trans cooler - LED's in the dash, trans/t-case selectors and kick panels - Viper alarm w/keyless entry + remote start (god I love this)
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Nov 13, 2009 21:49
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I replaced the ignition coil on our Volvo. Dead simple. Old and busted (and misfire-happy) on the left, new and suave on the right.  Oh hello there! New one works great. No more CEL! What sucks is, every online retailer had two: Bosch and OEM Volvo. The Bosch one was usually $105, while the Volvo one was $128-$150. I called and nobody had the Bosch, so I ordered the cheapest Volvo one I could find (RMeuropean). I get it, its in a nice Volvo box, but the part is Bosch because they're the supplier. So I paid $23 for a Volvo box.  I also picked up a key for myself for said Volvo, and washed and waxed my E36.
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Nov 14, 2009 23:44
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Changed the ATF again. Down to ~20% mystery fluid in there now...
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Nov 15, 2009 00:58
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Oh what didn't I do. On the upshot, I can now drop ship my h1 in little boxes with the exception of the body tub  I keep telling myself it'll all go back together like a big lego technic set. Except AM Generals Factory documentation is rear end, I plugged in all new chassis bolts from Mc Master Carr, 100 lbs worth of MIL spec CAD plated hardware with hard washers and rated locknuts, and all the quantities were botched up in the manual.  Why yes! #17, a 1/2" 1" bolt is totally usable for holding on a cross member bracket through a box frame onto a control arm pocket on the other side.  (It's actually a 3/4" 4 1/2 " long bolt) Its time to type up a project thread.
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Nov 15, 2009 18:23
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Programmed a new keyfob that I got on eBay. Now I can lock/unlock my car from more than 2 feet away. Car computer systems are so goofy. Remove fuse, turn the key to accessory mode, wait for dings, turn key to off then back to accessory, open and shut door, wait for ding.
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Nov 15, 2009 20:53
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FogHelmut posted:
It seems to be a completely random system for programming fobs on vehicles and model years [ie. one year will use a motorola ECU, the other year, something else]. On my 98 Hummer I have to short a spade connector [usually against the ground on the nearby cigar lighter] while the key is set to accessory. Then wait for my lights to blink 4 times then I have 30 seconds to jam the buttons on the remotes I want to sync up. Then wait 30 seconds or re short the spade connector again to turn off program mode. Since the OEM fobs were so very lovely, and I was replacing them almost twice a year, I wired up an arcade plunger button with a terminal connector on one end and a alligator clip on another to make the process go a bit faster. A few years later they actually spared 50 cents and wired up a switch to the receiver so you can just go PUSH BUTTAN and program. Pulling codes from WABCO [Land rovers, some hummers, misc vans and trucks] ABS modules is a pain in the rear end. Short a few pins, and read patterns of flashing lights. I guess it's too much to have everything talk to the OBD ports, but I guess it's a compatibility nightmare to try to get all the vendors to agree to a standard. Big K of Justice fucked around with this message at 21:08 on Nov 15, 2009 |
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Nov 15, 2009 21:03
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