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Vladimir Putin posted:It's non-turbo, but I read somewhere that you should do your first oil change after you break in your engine at about 3K miles. Is this true? Yes, this is correct.
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Nov 15, 2009 06:31
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I've always followed the 3k change, no matter what. On tuned turbo cars I think more frequent changes can be beneficial since you're running pretty rich under boost which is going to increase the CBP's dissolved in your oil. Synthetic may be thermally more stable, but it still collects CBP's just like conventional.
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Nov 15, 2009 17:51
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Does anyone know the sales figures for the 09 WRX vs previous years? I'm curious because I tried to buy one but they were almost impossible to find in north NJ. Subaru used to list the numbers on their site but I can't seem to find them anymore.
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Nov 16, 2009 01:26
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TurboLuvah posted:Check the vent filter on the fuel fill tube under the car and make sure it's open. If you look in the end and see a white cotton looking material in there remove it as it is a goddamn spider web and clearing it out usually works. Other than that, trace all the vent lines and make sure none are clogged. Or do what I do and turn the pump upside down when you're pumping gas.
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Nov 16, 2009 01:51
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8ender posted:Or do what I do and turn the pump upside down when you're pumping gas. I think the gas station management would be unhappy if you did this.
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Nov 16, 2009 01:55
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Vladimir Putin posted:Just got a brand new Forester, and the dealer keeps sending me notices for a 3750 mi service, which I guess includes an oil change. The owner's manual doesn't recommend an oil change until 7500. Should I go in and have my oil changed anyway? if its the regular 2.5, on our outback its 7500 oil change for first, the 3k oil change is only for the 6 cylinder
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Nov 16, 2009 05:59
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ab0z posted:I think the gas station management would be unhappy if you did this.
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Nov 16, 2009 06:36
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Hey heres an idea posted:Why on earth would that be? The potential for a poo poo ton of gas all over the side of his car and all over the ground.
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Nov 16, 2009 06:44
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Tremblay posted:The potential for a poo poo ton of gas all over the side of his car and all over the ground.
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Nov 16, 2009 06:46
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Hey heres an idea posted:questions -Use synthetic. -The car DOES NOT run fine on 87. It barely runs fine on 91. -09s finally changed to decent tires -Get some stock wheels off another subaru for your winter tires. 16" wrx wheels are super cheap and fit. I just sold my stock 16s for $100. -Don't pay a dealership to install an armrest and mirror.
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Nov 16, 2009 07:16
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Here's a pretty  question, but –I was thinking about putting on a catback exhaust on my 09 WRX, as I would like to eventually get to turboback, but I'm putting things on one at a time. It's my understanding that boost creep is only an issue when installing a turboback, correct? And basically, aside from the 'boxer rumble' (lolwut), I won't be experiencing any considerable HP gain from this installation, yes? And finally – can someone recommend a CBE that has the most compatibility with widely-available downpipes? (I eventually want to do a full turboback + tune, but $$$ is lacking right now) Thanks!
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Nov 16, 2009 08:05
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jamal posted:-The car DOES NOT run fine on 87. It barely runs fine on 91. So either everybody in California is actively ruining their new WRXs by running on 91 or the engine is total poo poo? Not disagreeing with any advice in here but I don't see what you're getting at with saying that a street car can't run on 91. disclaimer: I don't live in California maybe it's just dumb?
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Nov 16, 2009 08:29
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Hey heres an idea posted:Vapor displacement systems don't work like that. I saw this happen many times at the gas station I worked at in HS. Maybe they don't, but something about being 90 degree or more off vertical meant I was hitting the pump area with a poo poo ton of kitty litter.
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Nov 16, 2009 08:31
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Just Another XY posted:Here's a pretty Any 3in exhaust should work. Most of them are flat flanged so it won't be an issue which dp you choose as long as it's the same diameter. I'm not sure how wild you're looking to go but with exhaust, loud and free-flowing tends to be much cheaper than quieter and free-flowing, so if sound level concerns you, you may want to save for a decent CBE like the borla hush. It retails for about 450. It's the exhaust i'm going to buy when I'm no longer a poor college student. If you're looking for poor college student type exhaust, check out the classifieds over at nasioc. CBE's from various decent manufacturer's go for 200-300 there. Just be prepared for volume when you finally change your dp. As far as gains/tune requirement, you'll probably be okay for a while. My question is are you doing this piece-wise so you can save money over time or are you going for the boxer-rumble, because if the answer is the former, you can get a better deal by buying a full TBE rather than a CBE then dp. Just save a little longer. Definitely get a tune the day you install your dp though. dayman fucked around with this message at 13:58 on Nov 16, 2009 |
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Nov 16, 2009 13:53
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8ender posted:Or do what I do and turn the pump upside down when you're pumping gas. Hey heres an idea posted:Why on earth would that be? Did he mean the pump handle?
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Nov 16, 2009 15:11
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blargle posted:Does anyone know the sales figures for the 09 WRX vs previous years? I'm curious because I tried to buy one but they were almost impossible to find in north NJ. Subaru used to list the numbers on their site but I can't seem to find them anymore. They had to be pretty drat good, because they are completely sold out in Northern Virginia. I even waited a week to long and missed out on two different 2010 WRXs. Hopefully one will come in before the end of the year.
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Nov 16, 2009 15:38
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ab0z posted:Did he mean the pump handle? Yes I meant the handle. I'm not the incredible hulk so I can't rip gas pumps out of the ground, turn them upside down, and squeeze the gas out of them into my car.
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Nov 16, 2009 21:26
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dayman posted:Any 3in exhaust should work. Most of them are flat flanged so it won't be an issue which dp you choose as long as it's the same diameter. I'm not sure how wild you're looking to go but with exhaust, loud and free-flowing tends to be much cheaper than quieter and free-flowing, so if sound level concerns you, you may want to save for a decent CBE like the borla hush. It retails for about 450. It's the exhaust i'm going to buy when I'm no longer a poor college student. If you're looking for poor college student type exhaust, check out the classifieds over at nasioc. CBE's from various decent manufacturer's go for 200-300 there. Just be prepared for volume when you finally change your dp. Woah, Borlas for $450? The reason why I was going with the TurboXS was the price, it was ~$495 at fastwrx.com, with other choices (including the Borla) being $1K++! Can somebody confirm/deny if the Legacy 05+ downpipes are compatible with 08+ WRXs? I think this is what my plan will be: Purchase a TurboXS 3" (http://fastwrx.com/tuca08wrxand.html) ($449), and an Invidia Divorced Hi-Flo Catted Downpipe for Legacy GT 05-07 (http://www.jscspeed.com/lgt/downpipe/invidia_lg_downpipe.htm) ($562), and then schedule a tune at HBSpeed or SubieTech up North the same day. Here's a few questions – Since the TurboXS CBE and the Downpipe are both 3", will I need any adaptors? Will getting a tune solve CEL or boost creep problems? Also, will I need to port my wastegate if I purchase both components? Since I live in California, will maintaining a catted downpipe keep me within acceptable emissions? Finally – Can anybody give me a vendor with cheaper prices than quoted? Thanks everybody.
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Nov 16, 2009 21:33
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Just Another XY posted:Since I live in California, will maintaining a catted downpipe keep me within acceptable emissions? That said, I've been told that a cat-less up and catted down will pass the sniffer as long as the car is warm. But i'd recommend just removing the DP before smog checks, which isn't a whole lot of work (even if you pay someone for labor, it will be cheaper than a crooked smog check).
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Nov 16, 2009 22:03
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So I spoke with a machinist today and we came up with a really trick way to solve my clutch fork pin problem. I'll have pics when we finish, should be thursday or so. I have to say, I love living in western mass. The local business owners out here are by and large some of the nicest most approachable people I've met. Jim, the owner I spoke with today, runs a small machine shop in the town next to mine. I initially called his shop but he invited me to come down so he could look at the piece in question. He took valuable time out of his day to advise me on my problem and, instead of officially taking me into their system (which would take 12 weeks to process) he's going to let me come down some night this week and work it up for me while I wait. This is a guy that owns a shop that does work for companies like IBM and NASA. Real tight tolerance machine work that no one else will touch, and here I am with my stupid little pin and he takes time out of his busy day to help me with it. I was floored!
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Nov 16, 2009 22:18
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Just Another XY posted:Woah, Borlas for $450? The reason why I was going with the TurboXS was the price, it was ~$495 at fastwrx.com, with other choices (including the Borla) being $1K++! 450 is what I was quoted for a 3 inch Borla hush with the adapter. That price was only after calling a couple of shops and talking to the owners/sales managers on the phone, it's definitely not the listed price for it which, like you said, is retardedly high. Also my application is equivalent to an 02-05 WRX, i'm sure they're going to gouge 09 owners more. Invidia makes good stuff from what I hear. If both the CBE and DP are flat flanged there's no need for an adapter, but if the CBE terminates in something other than a flat-faced flange, you'll need an adapter which is usually sold with one piece or the other. -Getting a tune will solve boost creep. Ask your tuner about the CEL, I know on older ECU's you can flash it out...not sure about the newer cars but I'm sure someone has figured out how to get rid of it. -I don't think you'll need to port your wastegate, the bellmouth just helps blend the flow under full boost instead of making it hit a flat plate which is murder for good flow. Porting certainly can't hurt. Divorced WG would be even better...but that's a whole 'nother story. -I'm not super familiar with CA, but from what I've read you do need to keep some cats to pass smog, not sure which ones though. -Check nasioc often for new exhaust prices. Vendors are super competitive there, so you can shop between them for the best price, you can also come to a vendor X saying vendor Y is giving you the exhaust for some amount shipped and ask if they can do better or offer you free gaskets, stuff like that. Also, it's a bit early for 09's and I don't know your feelings on used goods, but like I said earlier the nasioc classifieds can be a goldmine. Often people will buy something and turn around and immediately sell it for a fraction of what it goes for new. You can get great stuff really cheap if you're not squeamish about buying used. I've had great experiences buying from nasioc classifieds. dayman fucked around with this message at 22:30 on Nov 16, 2009 |
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Nov 16, 2009 22:21
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Anyone that has a 2.5 RS at what mileage do you start running into issues (obviously depending on driving habits this will vary). Considering the associated price with a newer WRX or STI I think I will just keep looking for a 2.5 RS since they are the cars I really wanted in the first place. I have the cash to go anywhere really and buy one its just finding a car in the right condition! For example this car has low miles but is a Midwest car with rust spots showing. I have no problems doing work (who knows may do the WRX swap someday) but a Detroit car already showing rust scares me. Just looking for some mileage statistics to setup a few limits while searching.
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Nov 17, 2009 00:48
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BexGu posted:They had to be pretty drat good, because they are completely sold out in Northern Virginia. I even waited a week to long and missed out on two different 2010 WRXs. Hopefully one will come in before the end of the year. protip from former subaru dealer: tell dealer you would like to do a "sold order" (they can find this on subarunet if they are really retarded, it's like a preorder and it doesn't affect their allocation) for a WRX and are willing to put down a $500 deposit for said sold order. You also would like to purchase it for, say, $700 below invoice and have no trade. (they probably still have $500 dealer cash, if so, they might do $1000 below invoice.) wait 6-10 weeks, voila, you have a 2010 wrx with 4 or 5 miles they might be dickbutts on the east coast, but there are several dealers that ought to be willing to do this and if not, travel to one that will and drive your car back. Vladimir Putin posted:It's non-turbo, but I read somewhere that you should do your first oil change after you break in your engine at about 3K miles. Is this true? for a non turbo you can wait until 7500. however, if you are a "Severe" driver aka lots of city driving, cold starts, etc, the first one would be recommended at 3750. turbo also is classified as "Severe" and is 3750. it's up to you. The Slaughter fucked around with this message at 01:44 on Nov 17, 2009 |
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Nov 17, 2009 01:39
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This is ridiculous (but awesome) and I can picture the local dealers laughing me out of the showroom. $700 below invoice? The VIP program was the lowest I was able to get them, which was the invoice number you see on sites like Edmunds.com. Once you add DMV and taxes it was almost 27 grand for a base WRX with no options. The Slaughter posted:protip from former subaru dealer:
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Nov 17, 2009 02:01
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Tatrakrad posted:So either everybody in California is actively ruining their new WRXs by running on 91 or the engine is total poo poo? Not disagreeing with any advice in here but I don't see what you're getting at with saying that a street car can't run on 91. I said barely runs fine. And we get really funny torque curves when we baseline stock cars on 91 because of the way the timing and knock adjustments are made by the ecu.  those are numbers measured at the wheels btw. jamal fucked around with this message at 02:14 on Nov 17, 2009 |
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Nov 17, 2009 02:11
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I see. It still seems to me that Subaru didn't have the foresight to adequately test the turbo Impreza motors on 91 octane though. You Californians would have it easier if you just put 93 in the pumps though.
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Nov 17, 2009 07:07
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Tatrakrad posted:I see. It still seems to me that Subaru didn't have the foresight to adequately test the turbo Impreza motors on 91 octane though. people say "city x in california is so nice, you'd love it!" and I say "let me know when they have 93 octane gas again.
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Nov 17, 2009 07:09
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ab0z posted:people say "city x in california is so nice, you'd love it!" and I say "let me know when they have 93 octane gas again. Also, we get over it because its still better than wherever you live.
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Nov 17, 2009 07:13
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nm posted:It isn't just CA, its pretty much anything west of the continental divide. I love justifications of this format. "What we have is way better than what you have, so we get over putting up with (really dumb thing we refuse to change)". It's like people purposely messing with something good just to show others that it means nothing to them. Second disclaimer: I have E/N problems about moving away from the East Coast which I've learned to hate so much
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Nov 17, 2009 07:20
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Tatrakrad posted:I love justifications of this format. "What we have is way better than what you have, so we get over putting up with (really dumb thing we refuse to change)". It's like people purposely messing with something good just to show others that it means nothing to them. Though we do have Laguna Seca. Though the logic so many people have for hating CA is pretty annoying. I won't move to CA unless they have 93 octane? Really? Not like we need more people. nm fucked around with this message at 07:45 on Nov 17, 2009 |
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Nov 17, 2009 07:43
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Just Another XY posted:questions LGT downpipes fit. No you will not need adapters between the dp and exhaust yes you should get a tune yes you will pass emissions. you would not pass a trip to the ref. just call HB speed and see what they can get you an exhaust and tune for combined with parts and labor. generally places will cut you a deal when you get it all together. HB speed sells a lot of invidia so they should be able to get you a pretty good deal on it.
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Nov 17, 2009 07:53
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nm posted:'07 STi here. My only mod is an extended warranty. 
Nimbokwezer fucked around with this message at 09:04 on Nov 17, 2009 |
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Nov 17, 2009 09:01
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I miss blackhawk (I live in CA now). That's a fun track (very technical), esp in the rain. A bit high consequence though.
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Nov 17, 2009 09:09
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cmorrow001 posted:So I'm at 55,xxx miles on my 05 wrx and its time for new brakes So I never really got an answer if this is a good deal or not.
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Nov 17, 2009 15:15
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nm posted:You know I'm being a smart rear end right? quote:Though the logic so many people have for hating CA is pretty annoying. I won't move to CA unless they have 93 octane? Really? Not like we need more people. That's my real reason.
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Nov 17, 2009 16:00
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cmorrow001 posted:So I never really got an answer if this is a good deal or not. "coated rotors". What are they coated with? And on what part - not the friction surface I assume? As for the labor, $200 will buy you a nice set of tools but if you're not willing to get dirty for an afternoon then that's not outrageous to have a shop do it. I'm not super familiar with the part pricing, you could check fastwrx or similar to compare the price.
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Nov 17, 2009 16:05
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cmorrow001 posted:So I never really got an answer if this is a good deal or not. As ab0z said I'm not sure about the coating being worth it. I don't know if the coating would hold up to the ice, salt and snow in the winter. Not many coatings do, much less on something that is a solid chunk of cast iron.
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Nov 17, 2009 16:29
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I've never seen weather conditions that could ruin brake rotors. The same elements that will make your rotors corrode will rust everything else on your car, and make all the bolts and other hardware hard to work with.
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Nov 17, 2009 16:39
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ab0z posted:I've never seen weather conditions that could ruin brake rotors. The same elements that will make your rotors corrode will rust everything else on your car, and make all the bolts and other hardware hard to work with. It is a cosmetic thing.
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Nov 17, 2009 19:04
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jamal posted:awesome advice thanks ja\mal! you are the best. it's like talking to a walking, breathing nasioc. (without the assholery and with all the awesome)
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Nov 18, 2009 00:30
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