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I quite like plastic glue - I prefer anything with a brush applicator (Tamiya in this case) or the Revell Contacta Professional and its needle applicator (although that is prone to clogging). My Keyboard doesn't like plastic glue though Click here for the full 700x545 image. Not mine but I really love that Inquisitor No Pun Intended fucked around with this message at 06:22 on Nov 18, 2009 |
# ? Nov 18, 2009 06:17 |
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# ? Jun 8, 2024 07:25 |
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Testors actually makes a pretty decent plastic glue with one of those fine detail applicators. I have one and use it regularly. I wish it dried a little quicker, but that's true for all plastic glues I gess. It even comes with little metal doohickeys to clean out a clogged nozzle. This, like Glosscote and Dullcote, is one of the few actually good Testors products.
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# ? Nov 18, 2009 06:40 |
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Fyrbrand posted:Testors actually makes a pretty decent plastic glue with one of those fine detail applicators. I have one and use it regularly. I wish it dried a little quicker, but that's true for all plastic glues I gess. It even comes with little metal doohickeys to clean out a clogged nozzle. This, like Glosscote and Dullcote, is one of the few actually good Testors products. I have a sneaking suspicion that's the same one I have. I have no issues with it, hell I even fixed my car stereo with it a couple weeks back.
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# ? Nov 18, 2009 19:21 |
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Trying to do a miniature version of space hulk a la the guy from CMON. I haven't been able to get a hold of any epic scale genestealers so I'm gonna replace them with demons instead.
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# ? Nov 18, 2009 19:53 |
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Holy gently caress did you sculpt those?
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# ? Nov 18, 2009 19:55 |
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gently caress no, just converted some epic chaos terminators, and an epic chaos lord. I like messing around with sculpting but 6 mm gets a bit too fidgety for my tastes.
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# ? Nov 18, 2009 20:06 |
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Magnetize them and make tiles from sheet magnets. Then you can play Fridge Hulk.
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# ? Nov 18, 2009 20:08 |
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Gonna do just that, I just don't know if I should get get some magnetic paint or just place them on bits of sheet magnets. I'd prefer magnetic paint but I don't know if it's strong enough. Yay travel hulk
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# ? Nov 18, 2009 20:18 |
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What's the diameter on those bases? I'm sure there's an appropriately sized rare-earth magnet you could buy to fit underneath.
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# ? Nov 18, 2009 20:26 |
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Fyrbrand posted:What's the diameter on those bases? I'm sure there's an appropriately sized rare-earth magnet you could buy to fit underneath. I'd say gently caress it to the magnet under the base and cut their bases off then glue them to the magnet itself.
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# ? Nov 18, 2009 20:47 |
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Magnetic paint should be strong enough to hold the models; I've heard of people using them for 40k models.
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# ? Nov 18, 2009 20:49 |
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Yea, there was someone who made a 'travel 40k' board using epic figures and just used magnetic paint for it. Epic-sized figures are tiny, using even a tiny rare-earth magnet for them is going to be a huge overkill, and probably a lot more trouble than just paint.
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# ? Nov 18, 2009 21:04 |
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The magnetic paint is only going to work for the surface, there isn't actually magnetic properties in the paint itself it is just metal filings in primer. If you get very thin rare earth magnets for the minis and a surface with the paint you'll be solid.
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# ? Nov 18, 2009 21:19 |
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Get that cheap magnetic sheet stuff with the sticky side and a hole puncher
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# ? Nov 18, 2009 21:55 |
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Bobx66 posted:The magnetic paint is only going to work for the surface, there isn't actually magnetic properties in the paint itself it is just metal filings in primer. If you get very thin rare earth magnets for the minis and a surface with the paint you'll be solid. The figured bases would get the magnetic paint, and the surface would be based on the rollable magnetic sheets.
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# ? Nov 18, 2009 22:01 |
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MasterSlowPoke posted:The figured bases would get the magnetic paint, and the surface would be based on the rollable magnetic sheets. It should work. PaintVagrant posted:Get that cheap magnetic sheet stuff with the sticky side and a hole puncher This will be your cheapest solution.
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# ? Nov 18, 2009 22:06 |
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PaintVagrant posted:Get that cheap magnetic sheet stuff with the sticky side and a hole puncher This might work, but the stuff is really weak and punching holes in it may actually make it weaker.
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# ? Nov 19, 2009 02:31 |
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I have a strip of the magnetic tape stuff and Fix is right; that poo poo is really weak. A 1" strip of it is basically strong enough to hold a plastic army man to a vertical metal surface as long as you don't touch it or breathe on it. For something as tiny as an epic terminator, I'd definitely want a stronger magnet so it wouldn't go rolling away and get lost in the car somewhere.
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# ? Nov 19, 2009 03:03 |
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100 rare earth magnets 1x8mm $6, free international shipping. http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.13518 I use them with Mighty Putty on the underside of my bases so I can move my minis around in a tool box and not worry about them sliding about during transport. Does anyone have 4 chaos space marines they'd be willing to give away or trade? I want them for Warriors in a Chaos Blood Bowl team because the metal ones that GW offers look like rear end.
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# ? Nov 19, 2009 03:42 |
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Hey PV, could you edit the url for those basing tutorial links that aranan posted a while back to this instead? http://www.necrotales.com/necroTutorials/tut_base_plants01.php http://archive.brushthralls.com/basing/back-to-bases-1-textures-2.html http://archive.brushthralls.com/basing/back-to-bases-2-cork-and-snow.html http://archive.brushthralls.com/basing/back-to-bases-3-protectorate-basing.html http://www.astronomican.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=273&Itemid=98 http://www.one-ring.co.uk/phpBB2/kb.php?mode=article&k=86 http://thepaintingcorps.blogspot.com/2009/05/friday-quick-tip-cork-basing.html http://archive.brushthralls.com/Old/HordesBasing/index.php http://blog.brushthralls.com/?page_id=3381[/url] http://www.necrotales.com/necroTutorials/tut_base_rock01.php http://salmondworks.com/blog/?p=156[/url] http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/index.php?autocom=ineo&showarticle=146 http://www.astronomican.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=484&Itemid=98 http://www.one-ring.co.uk/phpBB2/kb.php?mode=article&k=159 http://thepaintingcorps.blogspot.com/search/label/Basing Some of the longer urls got chopped before and don't really work. EDIT: stupid loving auto sparse Angryboot fucked around with this message at 03:45 on Nov 19, 2009 |
# ? Nov 19, 2009 03:42 |
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Indolent Bastard posted:100 rare earth magnets 1x8mm $6, free international shipping. Have anything interesting for trade? I play Nids and Guard.
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# ? Nov 19, 2009 03:48 |
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Bobx66 posted:Have anything interesting for trade? I play Nids and Guard. Several pounds of reaper and grenadier minis covering every size and type you can likely imagine. And a smattering of GW stuff. I'll make a better list later but off the top of my head: 1 Battle sister Seraphim (or whatever their jump pack ones are called) 1 Chaos terminator with sword and bolter 1 SM terminator with lightning claws and big knife thing. 1 SM sniper scout 3-4 Fantasy halflings 20-ish misc. fantasy fighters and orcs from 2nd ed (maybe) A bunch of Gors and Ungors mostly on the sprue. (current ed) Indolent Bastard fucked around with this message at 04:06 on Nov 19, 2009 |
# ? Nov 19, 2009 04:03 |
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email me your reaper stuff. kramer.tyler at gmail dot com
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# ? Nov 19, 2009 04:13 |
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Gee-bee-ess crosspost: Alright warhams, here's the deal my friend has given me this: And these: (CSM termie HF) (what I think is the LS's original MM) To make a land speeder for my marines (temporarily nicknamed the House of the Rising Sun) There are several issues here that I need to adress: 1. Paint may need to be stripped, though I'm not so sure because the black at least looks like it was done with just undercoat and is not thick at all. I may just end up replacing the marine heads, and respraying it out of laziness. 2. There is no mount for the gunner MM 3. There is no mount for the hull HF 4. There is no flying base 5. There is no crazy anti-grav fork Now the only solutions that I've thought up so far are: to manually construct a mount for the MM; to clip the stubby remains of the anti-grav fork and trim the HF down and stick it there; and finally to plead to one of you to give me a base/order three from GW direct (just one is impossible). What do you guys think of these semi-solutions and do you have any better ones (I'm sure you do, you smug fucks)?
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# ? Nov 19, 2009 13:54 |
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Reposting these from the Warhammer thread. Tell me how to paint better orks cause I got lots more to do.
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# ? Nov 19, 2009 14:30 |
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CyberLord XP posted:Reposting these from the Warhammer thread. Tell me how to paint better orks cause I got lots more to do. Washes are your friend if you have lots of orks. Also paint the basing material (super easy drybrushing basically) and it will look 10x better. Other than that, these look pretty pimp. (Deffskullz are the best orks, natch.)
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# ? Nov 19, 2009 14:37 |
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Fyrbrand posted:Washes are your friend if you have lots of orks. Also paint the basing material (super easy drybrushing basically) and it will look 10x better. Other than that, these look pretty pimp. (Deffskullz are the best orks, natch.) Also after painting the base, adding a small patch or two of static grass, adds an additional 10x to how they look.
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# ? Nov 19, 2009 15:23 |
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A Powerful Cream posted:Gee-bee-ess crosspost: I'd strip the paint first instead of respraying it; not 100% clear on the pics but some spots look a little lumpy already. Soak the sucker in simple green or purple power for a day or 2 then scrub it with an old toothbrush. Simple green doesn't strip primer all that well though. No idea on the rest of the stuff aside from scratch building those with apoxie clay or green stuff or styrene bits.
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# ? Nov 19, 2009 16:37 |
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"This mini was painted entirely using five pots of paint: Morrow White, Sanguine Base, Rynn Flesh Bootstrap Leather and Exile Blue." ... drat. Here's where I found it: http://gardenninjastudios.blogspot.com/2009/11/painting-with-limited-pallet.html
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# ? Nov 19, 2009 18:51 |
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Actually, that brings up something I've been wondering about off and on. I was trained in my art classes to always mix up the colors you needed when painting, that's the point of having the palette. I.e. for oils I used red, white, black, blue, yellow, and little else; learning to make the colors I wanted. I noticed they've got a billion different colors for miniatures painting. I guess my question is, how often do you guys mix to get the colors you want and is it effective to do so?
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# ? Nov 19, 2009 19:20 |
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They make lots of colors because most warhams (me for instance) know nothing about art techniques, color theory, mixing paints, or pretty much anything like that. Sometimes I mix one shade of a color with an even lighter shade to do halfassed highlights, but that's about it.
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# ? Nov 19, 2009 19:23 |
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Colour theory makes my head hurt so I mostly only mix colours when I'm highlighting and there's no suitable colour already available to use. Colour.
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# ? Nov 19, 2009 19:30 |
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Mixing for highlights is pretty common but the range of colors are there for consistency when painting an entire army. Mixing up a new batch of color for every model is going to leave you with 100 different shades. I like to premix the bigger colors that I have to use and throwing them in their own pot or dropper.
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# ? Nov 19, 2009 19:31 |
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Yea, primarily it's because most people doing this are just hobbyists, and lots of them are also kids - they don't have the knowledge to mix up all of their own colors, and they're not really interested in doing it. It's also because people often spend a long time assembling and painting a force that needs to look coherent and uniform - its nice that you can spend years assembling your army, and any time you need to add something to it you can just by a pot of X color, knowing that you're going to get the same shade across all your men. It's really frustrating if you mix your own stuff and you paint one unit/squad/vehicle, and then six months later when you are adding to the force you can't quite get the same shade again. I actually have this problem because I mixed up some colors to paint my Stegadon in a particular shade. Now I've decided that I want to make the two different heads swappable, but I can't seem to match the color mix I used - so the second head is going to end up a slightly different color unless I want to keep working at it forever, or repaint.
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# ? Nov 19, 2009 19:32 |
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After I posted I realized the consistency answer. It's near impossible to get the same color after the fact, especially since your source might have changed a little from drying. So it's only useful with a one-off piece you don't intend to add to later. Also, der, all the postings about color mix recipes so it's written down if/when you do mix. As far as actual color theory goes, make no mistake I'm not claiming to be an expert. If you guys are interested though I can share in brief a few of the rules of thumb I learned that might carry over well to 3d painting.
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# ? Nov 19, 2009 19:40 |
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I can match most colors by just grabbing paints off my shelf and mixing until I get what I want. That being said, Im a lazy son of a bitch and like having tons of colors.
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# ? Nov 19, 2009 20:01 |
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You don't count, Mr. fancy-paints trained artist
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# ? Nov 19, 2009 20:29 |
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Oh lord
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# ? Nov 19, 2009 20:59 |
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# ? Jun 8, 2024 07:25 |
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HOly poo poo those rule man e: you should put something under that sideways foot for sure PaintVagrant fucked around with this message at 21:52 on Nov 19, 2009 |
# ? Nov 19, 2009 21:34 |