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Schatten posted:What year? What price range? I dunno, new one so an '08 or '09? It has been "updated" from the '06 model but all the reviews have been stellar for the new models as well. My budget is more or less 800€ tops, I could afford that early next year and would rather not wait for any longer.
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Nov 19, 2009 17:58
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| # ? May 13, 2024 09:13 |
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Nothing but good things on the HWY1. However, resale value isn't going to be as good as an MIA. If you can find a used one, by all means, pick it up. At the time I bought mine, it was either that or an MIA standard. The HWY1 felt better, played better and sounded better so I went with it. Fender has come a long way, but still some basses aren't set up right, or just don't have a certain mojo feeling about them. It all comes down to the individual bass.
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Nov 19, 2009 18:49
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I've only played two basses in my life and both have been cheapo piece of shits so I doubt I'll be abled to pick up the mojo of a bass without playing it for a few months. But that's nice to hear, I'll probably pick up a new HWY1 P-bass as soon as I get the financing right. I'll risk and get a new one since I fear I won't be abled to tell a stellar used from an ok or even mediocre used bass.
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Nov 19, 2009 18:54
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It should be known that the general consensus in the bass community is that 08-09 Fenders have been fantastic in terms of QC compared to years past.
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Nov 19, 2009 18:57
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Dyna Soar posted:Does anyone have any experience with the Highway One model p-basses? They're n my pricerange and I really want a p-bass, just not sure if I should save money for a high-end model. I'd rather get a new bass sooner than later. I have the model before the update, it does not have the badass bridge. I picked it up because I got it for a steal ($199 new!! at GC) even though I didn't think I was a P-bass guy. I bought it with the intention of flipping it, but when I took it home and plugged it in, I fell in love with it and it is definitely one of my favorite basses in the stable. It sounds great and plays like a dream!
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Nov 19, 2009 18:59
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For those in the market for a cheap bass - Peavy Zodiac. Butterscotch. Looks like a Fender cowpoke. $199! http://bass-guitars.musiciansfriend.com/product/Peavey-Zodiac-Bass-Guitar?sku=474652&CJAID=10451188&CJPID=3353204
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Nov 20, 2009 19:50
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Schatten posted:For those in the market for a cheap bass - Peavy Zodiac. Butterscotch. Looks like a Fender cowpoke. $199! http://bass-guitars.musiciansfriend.com/product/Peavey-Zodiac-Bass-Guitar?sku=474652&CJAID=10451188&CJPID=3353204
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Nov 21, 2009 02:50
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scuz posted:That actually looks pretty slick, though I have no experience with it. Yeah I agree. Kind of a cool retro-modern Tele-Jazz-Precision hybrid. Peavey is usually a good bang for the buck as well.
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Nov 21, 2009 20:33
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hey scarf you should click this okay
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Nov 21, 2009 23:54
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In the first ~20 seconds of "Romantic Rights" by death from above 1979, how the hell does he get that really scratchy sound?
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Nov 22, 2009 08:12
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Bobby_Wokkerfella posted:In the first ~20 seconds of "Romantic Rights" by death from above 1979, how the hell does he get that really scratchy sound? Pick scrapes (through a couple overdriven stacks) - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4XyJMN14JSU
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Nov 22, 2009 08:31
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warwick5s posted:hey scarf you should click this okay Urrrgh, tempting... but I'm going new so I can get some Chi-Sonic pickups in it. Also, it'll be my first purchase from Dan as a Lakland endorsing artist  I'm about half-way there with my funds.
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Nov 22, 2009 10:31
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I've got a question about my bass, and if anyone could help me out I'd really appreciate it! I just restrung my 4 string ibanez SDGR with d'addario XL nickle wound brights. The strings them self are exactly what I am looking for with the tone. note: I left my pegs the same on the bridge to leave my action exactly how it was because I liked it just like it was.. perfect for slap and all that. So as I'm playing I notice any note on my D string after the 12th fret leaves the string buzzing terribly to the point where it will ring for 2 seconds and stop. So I raised my action on the string and it went away.. but now my action is so high I can't get a good slap on that string. What can I do? I'm thinking about getting a setup on my bass but I fear if I get a $40 setup, the next set of strings I buy will leave me with the same issue. I have never messed with the tuss rod since I purchased the bass a year or so ago, and I don't know much about that so I am unsure of what to do. Any advice? Thanks guys.. I can provide pics of anyone cares for em.
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Nov 23, 2009 04:43
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I r Pat posted:I've got a question about my bass, and if anyone could help me out I'd really appreciate it!
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Nov 23, 2009 04:46
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 which one should i do 
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Nov 23, 2009 05:11
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warwick5s posted:
I like the 2nd spalted one.
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Nov 23, 2009 05:55
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I like the first one. I think it matches the inlays the best. I recently attended a seminar by Joe Zon and he really didn't like buckeye burl. He said that it sounded like wet cardboard since its so soft. The second and the fourth look too much like ESP's.
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Nov 23, 2009 06:39
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Are those wolves on the 3rd one? I say the third one.
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Nov 23, 2009 12:08
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Rifter17 posted:I like the first one. I think it matches the inlays the best. Yeah, every manufacturer I've ever heard talk about buckeye burl hates working with it. It'd be a really thin veneer on this thing, though, on top of an ash or bubinga body, with a coat of poly, so I don't think it'd affect the sound too much. I'm leaning towards the spalted / flame maple one, but the buckeye could be really cool.
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Nov 23, 2009 16:26
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warwick5s posted:Yeah, every manufacturer I've ever heard talk about buckeye burl hates working with it. It'd be a really thin veneer on this thing, though, on top of an ash or bubinga body, with a coat of poly, so I don't think it'd affect the sound too much. Yeah, the flame in that dark gunmetal is my second choice. Oh, and I nearly forgot...  STAMBAUGH!
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Nov 23, 2009 16:30
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scuz posted:Elaborate on how you "raised your action". Did this problem begin when you put on the new set of strings? What was the gauge of your old set? The little bridge pins at the bottom allow me to heighten or lower the string with an allen wrench.. so I did that. My new strings are .045 - .105.. I'm not 100% sure but my old ones were but they are either exactly the same or .040-.100.
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Nov 23, 2009 16:55
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I r Pat posted:The little bridge pins at the bottom allow me to heighten or lower the string with an allen wrench.. so I did that. You might need an adjustment in the neck relief via the trussrod if there was any change in the gauge of the strings.
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Nov 23, 2009 16:59
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Scarf posted:Yeah, the flame in that dark gunmetal is my second choice. It'll be the last one 
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Nov 23, 2009 18:05
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warwick5s posted:It'll be the last one Hahah switching brands or what? Also, whats the control layout? edit: Oh poo poo I didn't even notice that last one was spalted AND flamed. Scarf fucked around with this message at 18:30 on Nov 23, 2009 |
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Nov 23, 2009 18:28
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Scarf posted:Hahah switching brands or what? No, I'm just married and have a total instrument cap until I'm making enough money playing music again to pay for them with that. :[ I can't justify having more than two five string fretteds and one fretless. plus the next thing i get will be an Upton Control layout would be the same as my white bass: volume, blend, passive tone, treble, mid, bass, pickup switch (in this case it'd be a 3 position for the MM pickup to pick front coils, back coils, or both), mid shift switch, and active /passive switch.
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Nov 23, 2009 18:47
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warwick5s posted:No, I'm just married and have a total instrument cap until I'm making enough money playing music again to pay for them with that. :[ I can't justify having more than two five string fretteds and one fretless. plus the next thing i get will be an Upton Ahhh nice. Yeah, I'm trying to pay for this new Lakland strictly with gig/bass-sales money. I'm half-way! So close I can taste it!
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Nov 23, 2009 18:50
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Scarf posted:Yeah, I'm trying to pay for this new Lakland strictly with gig/bass-sales money. I'm half-way! So close I can taste it! Gig money? What's that?
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Nov 23, 2009 18:59
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Money that you're promised and never given!
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Nov 23, 2009 19:00
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NarkyBark posted:Money that you're promised and never given! That's why we have contracts  And if you can... play for fraternities/sororities, you make BANK.
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Nov 23, 2009 19:01
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warwick5s posted:plus the next thing i get will be an Upton Dear God I want an upright so bad... That'll be a loooooooong while though.
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Nov 23, 2009 19:07
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Scarf posted:Dear God I want an upright so bad... That'll be a loooooooong while though. I'm kind of thinking about getting an NS NXT to tide me over and get me back into it, but I think the deposit on the new Stambaugh will have to come first. I don't really regret selling my upright last year, as it kind of sucked, but I'd really like to be able to keep up with it.
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Nov 23, 2009 19:41
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I've started playing bass in a band, and I'll need an amp eventually. Luckily at the moment we're practicing at an equipped practice space so I'm not in a rush. There are 2 guitarists (playing through small amps, like Deluxe Reverbs), a keyboard, and drums. We play kind of atmospheric indie type stuff. Luckily we're not too loud. So far I've been playing through a 200 watt SWR head and 4x10 cabinet, and it's been keeping up more than fine with the volume halfway up. I've been seeing the usual suspects around the stores and craigslist, like 80's Peavey Centurions, used G-K stuff, etc. I'd like to focus on used stuff so I can get more for my money, but I'm not against buying new if the price is right. I play a P-bass and I guess I'm looking for more of a vintage tone (little treble, no slapping or popping). So, here are my questions: 1) What range should I be looking at in terms of wattage? If I end up with a head I'd like to keep it to one cabinet at the moment. 2) What brands should I be focusing on for a more classic tone in my price range? I'd like to keep it around $500 if possible. Thanks!
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Nov 23, 2009 23:14
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Narwhale posted:I've started playing bass in a band, and I'll need an amp eventually. Luckily at the moment we're practicing at an equipped practice space so I'm not in a rush. There are 2 guitarists (playing through small amps, like Deluxe Reverbs), a keyboard, and drums. We play kind of atmospheric indie type stuff. Luckily we're not too loud. So far I've been playing through a 200 watt SWR head and 4x10 cabinet, and it's been keeping up more than fine with the volume halfway up. I gig more than adequately with 350w solid state. The problem is, some companies low-ball their power, and some make outrageous claims. So you'll really need to try them out before hand at gig-level volumes or find a place that has a good return policy. And I'm an Ampeg whore so... Get an Ampeg Other than that, you might want to look at Aguilar and Genz Benz. Also, find something with a balanced line-out. That way if you're playing a venue where 350w isn't enough, you'll likely have a sound-guy running you into the PA anyway. So when that happens, you're rig is basically your monitor.
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Nov 23, 2009 23:36
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Scarf posted:You might need an adjustment in the neck relief via the trussrod if there was any change in the gauge of the strings. Anywhere I can learn how to do this or should I take it to a shop?
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Nov 24, 2009 00:56
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I r Pat posted:Anywhere I can learn how to do this or should I take it to a shop? What you will need:
Step One: wtf is wrong with it in the first place? Fret buzz can be the product of any number of things that have gone wrong with your bass, but quite often it's lack of relief in the neck. Oh, a new word! Relief is how much or how little the neck is "bowing" under the tension of the strings. If your bass neck has no relief, it is dead flat. If it has some relief, the strings will come up off of the frets a bit and the neck will "bow" inwards. What's an easy way to tell if the bass neck has no relief? Fret the string at the 3rd and 12th frets at the same time, and use your 6-inch ruler (or your eyeball) to see if there is any space between the string and the frets; lots of space = lots of relief; strings-resting-on-the-frets = zero relief. Now this is not the only thing that will create fret buzz, but a little bit of relief in the neck can do wonders, and it's very simple to adjust (we'll get to that in a bit). Another easy fix to eliminate fret buzz is to adjust the bridge saddle height. The saddles are those things on the bridge with the screws in them that the strings rest on that can be adjusted up or down. See where this is going? Oh good! Now that you've diagnosed the problem, it's time for the next step. Step Two: how to fix! Please note that it's almost never just one or the other, but a combination of both neck relief and saddle height that causes that buzzing noise you hate so much. So just because you've raised the bridge doesn't mean that you're entirely out of the woods. I always raise the bridge first because I don't like loving around with the neck of the bass. Fixing too little relief in the neck, is very simple! What you will be adjusting is the truss rod in the neck of your bass. To adjust it, you'll need to determine what size allen key/hex wrench you will need (some are adjusted using a flathead screwdriver, also), and you will also need to gain access to it. Most basses have their truss rod access on the headstock (it's that hole thing) or at the base of the neck. If you want more relief, loosen the truss rod (turn it to the left), and if you want less relief, tighten the truss rod (turn it to the right). I have a rule where I do not adjust any more than a quarter turn at a time. My process is quarter turn, re-tune, WAIT, assess. The waiting is very important and is not to be left out. The neck needs time to bend to the will of its truss rod overlord and will not always do so immediately. Adjusting the bridge saddle height is ALSO very easy and should be very straight-forward, but we'll just walk you through that while we're here. Take a quick glance at the top of your bass looking down the fret board. See how the fretboard is sorta rounded? You want each string to be the same distance off of the fretboard, so not in a straight line across (that means that the E and G string are further off the board than the A and D strings). Take whichever string is too low or too high and lower or raise its saddle. Done! Step Three: or, oh god now it's out of tune a lot halllllp Intonation is a pretty important thing, and setting up a bass can gently caress with that somewhat, especially if you had to do a lot of saddle height adjustment. I personally don't know if my bass has proper intonation because I rarely go above the 9th fret on my bass (I'm a pleb, I know, hush), and that is where improper intonation is most noticeable. To find out if your bass is well-tuned, tune an open string, then tune it again but when you're fretting on the 12th fret. It should be the same note, right? Maybe not! If it's flat, extend the saddle (adjust the saddle's screw so that it moves away from the bottom of the bridge), if it's sharp, shorten the saddle. Ta-da! I probably hosed up a few things here, but it says "Crash course" right on top. I've been doing it this way for a long time and any bass that I've had has done its job just fine.
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Nov 24, 2009 05:28
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Narwhale posted:1) What range should I be looking at in terms of wattage? If I end up with a head I'd like to keep it to one cabinet at the moment. quote:2) What brands should I be focusing on for a more classic tone in my price range? I'd like to keep it around $500 if possible.
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Nov 24, 2009 05:35
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Triple post, hell yes. I just switched from Rotosounds to D'Addario half-wounds and holy loving poo poo these things rule. I ain't ne'r gon' back. They're probably twice as growly and fat as the Rotos I was using.
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Nov 24, 2009 05:38
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Doubling your wattage has the same effect as doubling your speakers, so if you get a 3-500 watt head you could always get a second cab if you start running into situations that it can't handle. Also, if you haven't checked out a Markbass LittleMarkIII head yet, you probably should. It's by far the best price to weight to power deal out there, and they sound darn good. If you like the tone I think it's a no-brainer purchase as far as heads go nowadays.
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Nov 24, 2009 06:00
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scuz posted:awesome setup guide Thank you so much! This is very helpful.. you should get this guide added to the OP
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Nov 24, 2009 07:09
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warwick5s posted:Doubling your wattage has the same effect as doubling your speakers, so if you get a 3-500 watt head you could always get a second cab if you start running into situations that it can't handle. I r Pat posted:Thank you so much! This is very helpful.. you should get this guide added to the OP
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Nov 24, 2009 13:04
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