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jamal posted:no it's just that some early 04s have that transmission. Oh wow, this I did not know. Are there build dates I could reference to check if mine was indeed shipped out with the previous model year trans?
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Nov 23, 2009 06:12
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Isn't the easiest way to check to see if you have the newer model transmission to check the drain plug? Regular bolt=old, torx=new?
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Nov 23, 2009 17:03
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I'm having a hard time finding a used subaru that's not trash right now. Does the Audi A4 Quattro compare well at all? I'm seeing much better deals on those. And I like how the shifter feels.
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Nov 24, 2009 23:42
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Demie posted:I'm having a hard time finding a used subaru that's not trash right now. Does the Audi A4 Quattro compare well at all? I'm seeing much better deals on those. And I like how the shifter feels.
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Nov 25, 2009 00:00
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nm posted:They do much better at breaking down. Also being slow. Mechanically Audis are great, just every little thing will break, and if you don't have lots of tools and complete factory service literature it'll be a complete pain to work on them. Contrast this to subaru, where if the known potential issues are checked for and fixed once, and they aren't modified improperly, they will last literally forever. edit: also it's several times as expensive to modify an audi for a specific level of performance. But audis are godlike in the snow.
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Nov 25, 2009 01:18
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it appears that this is what I've broken: When I pull on the inner cv something is moving around inside the diff/trans although the car still drives mostly alright. Really not looking forward to pulling the transmission apart, plus I don't see how I couldn't have damaged the sealing surfaces or the diff itself.
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Nov 25, 2009 01:37
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My STi has blown struts (Factory Installed Option) I need to replace. What are the popular replacement struts that people have had a positive experience with?
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Nov 25, 2009 02:10
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ab0z posted:But audis are godlike in the snow. Audis are subarus for people who want german cars and/or care too much about interiors. (Also, r8s, mmmm)
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Nov 25, 2009 02:19
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Alright, finally getting around to purchasing winter tires and wheels. I'm going to go with 16" steelies and 205/55R16 Dunlop SP Winter Sport 3Ds. Do I need to get the TPMS sensors, or will the car work without them and just throw a code for sensor errors?
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Nov 25, 2009 02:50
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jamal posted:it appears that this is what I've broken: I don't see how you can damage that. On a manual transmission those splined shafts (B on that diagram) are held into the centre diff with circlips and can't come out. If you pop the ball joint off the offending side and that whole inner shaft comes out then you've just snapped a circlip. If you've somehow broken the bearing retainer/adjuster then you would probably know about it when all your gear oil falls out and you front diff exits the side of the case.
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Nov 25, 2009 03:20
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Going to ask this one again. If you had to replace an axle on your Subaru on the cheap would you go for a potentially dubious axle made by USA industries or just pick up a junkyard axle and reboot/regrease it?
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Nov 25, 2009 06:47
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I'd totally go for the junker - no reason it'd be worse than something made in the us bra
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Nov 25, 2009 06:48
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ssh posted:I'd totally go for the junker - no reason it'd be worse than something made in the us bra Well strangely the junker axle would actually be more than the USA industries one. Thats whats making me worried about the USA axle, its cheapness. With a junkyard axle I at least have a good shot at getting a genuine Subaru axle.
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Nov 25, 2009 07:02
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8ender posted:Going to ask this one again. If you had to replace an axle on your Subaru on the cheap would you go for a potentially dubious axle made by USA industries or just pick up a junkyard axle and reboot/regrease it?
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Nov 25, 2009 07:07
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I ended up picking up an A1 Cardone remanufactured axle from RockAuto for about $52. I was a little wary of a reman axle but this Endwrench article (http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/07FebRemanEW.pdf) where they say that Subaru offers reman Cardone axles through its dealers and how awesome they are made me feel better about it. I'm trying out a crazy idea tomorrow to limp the axle until Christmas when I've got some more time to work on it. I've got a needle attachment for my grease gun and I'm going to inject some CV grease into the outboard CV and see if that quiets it down. I've got an all out front end overhaul planned for the holidays. New struts, mounts, ball joints, the axle, and I'll get the winter tires on.
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Nov 28, 2009 07:09
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Inject grease, wrap a plastic bag around the remains of the boot, and duct tape the poo poo out of it. It'll last nearly as long as a new boot.
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Nov 28, 2009 07:54
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Hey Jamal, how come you picked an older model Legacy that you may/may not drop a turbo-charged engine into in the future rather than just buying a later-gen turbo-charged Legacy? I figure either you're being frugal or just really like that gen (I like the looks myself), but was curious enough I figured I'd ask. It just seems unusual considering you're always working on the latest and greatest.
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Nov 30, 2009 21:13
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Is there any reason to not re-use my OEM rotors as long as they are in good condition and have more than a 1/4 inch of material left? Or should I just suck it up and spend the additional money for new rotors? 05 WRX with 55,xxx miles and in need of brakes.
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Nov 30, 2009 21:51
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autozone blanks are $33 each, but if the rotors aren't grooved out too bad and you don't get any vibration while braking hard you could probably re-use them.Jared592 posted:Hey Jamal, how come you picked an older model Legacy that you may/may not drop a turbo-charged engine into in the future rather than just buying a later-gen turbo-charged Legacy? I figure either you're being frugal or just really like that gen (I like the looks myself), but was curious enough I figured I'd ask. It just seems unusual considering you're always working on the latest and greatest. Well I have always liked this gen car, but it mostly came down to me buying what I could afford. Going to school and being a tech at a performance shop doesn't pay so well. Although I make more part-time at the new place then I did full time at the old place.
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Nov 30, 2009 23:17
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I've owned my 2001 Subaru Forester for over five years, and have had few problems. The catalytic converter needs to be replaced, which I'm not looking forward to. Stupid question: any problems with buying a CC online and having an independent shop do the work? Oh ... I just moved to Buffalo from Austin, Texas. Looking forward to REAL winter driving with my lesbian magnet. (I'm a Buffalo native, so I'm experienced with driving in heavy snow.)
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Nov 30, 2009 23:19
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elmwood posted:I've owned my 2001 Subaru Forester for over five years, and have had few problems. The catalytic converter needs to be replaced, which I'm not looking forward to. Stupid question: any problems with buying a CC online and having an independent shop do the work? I don't see why not, I changed mine with a non-oem cat, and everything seems ok, although it seems to sit a bit lower than the factory cat did.
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Nov 30, 2009 23:52
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This probably gets asked every year around this time, but can somebody recommend me some mud flaps for my 09 WRX? Price isn't really a concern if they're well made.
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Dec 1, 2009 19:13
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GravityDaemon posted:This probably gets asked every year around this time, but can somebody recommend me some mud flaps for my 09 WRX? Price isn't really a concern if they're well made. I bought the cheaper rally armor flaps, They seem pretty sturdy. The UR ones are pretty popular, but they cost a kidney (for what they are).
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Dec 1, 2009 19:18
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GravityDaemon posted:This probably gets asked every year around this time, but can somebody recommend me some mud flaps for my 09 WRX? Price isn't really a concern if they're well made. RallyArmor edit: beaten
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Dec 1, 2009 19:18
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Tremblay posted:I bought the cheaper rally armor flaps, They seem pretty sturdy. The UR ones are pretty popular, but they cost a kidney (for what they are). warwick5s posted:RallyArmor That was fast, thanks!
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Dec 1, 2009 19:34
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http://forums.nasioc.org/forums/showthread.php?s=30cd1df96d15cf1b579af09515dd9acb&t=1875708 DIY Ikea mudflaps. :\
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Dec 2, 2009 00:41
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Ugh. So I still have the 1 second death rattle at startup and I'm a little worried its rod knock. The only positive thing is that right now the engine sounds and drives fine after the initial rattle, which is odd considering how damaging rod knock should be. The rattle at start has been going on for at least 8000+ kilometers of driving as well, and I figure the engine would have eaten itself by now if it was serious. The oil light comes on at startup for about a second but I think the oil light always comes on at startup. So I'm completely lost as to what to look at here. I'm going to take the timing covers off this weekend and disconnect all the belts and start it up and see what happens. Maybe its the oil pump? Is there a check valve to keep oil from draining out of the engine in the pump? Bad tensioner maybe? Anyone have any ideas? I'm out of ideas and the rattle sounds awful 
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Dec 2, 2009 04:54
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I didn't see anyone mention here that there's going to be a new STI trim level next year. The SE will be a limited run in the spring and then become a full model later in the year.quote:The 2010 WRX STI Special Edition is aimed at the driving enthusiast who is willing to trade a few amenities to gain an extra measure of handling performance over the already extraordinary WRX STI. Suspension for the new version of this high-performance machine is adopted from the Japanese domestic market WRX STI spec C model, which adds a 1-millimeter thicker rear stabilizer bar, stiffer rear sub-frame bushings plus upgraded and retuned springs. The front springs are 16-percent stiffer, while the rear shocks have been stiffened by 29-percent. http://www.autoblog.com/2009/11/24/la-preview-subaru-wrx-sti-special-edition-headed-for-u-s-showr/ The idea is it's going to be cheaper than the normal STI, we'll see by how much when the announcement is made at the autoshow. So, general availability of the model will be later 2010, right around the time that I was thinking about picking up a new car. The timing seems too coincidental to me. We'll just have to see how much cheaper it is than the normal STI.
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Dec 3, 2009 06:25
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Around the same time they are releasing a WRX premium with leather. That is going to be an expensive car . I prefer cloth anyhow but I wonder how many nearly 30k WRXs they really expect to move.
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Dec 3, 2009 06:34
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8ender posted:Ugh. So I still have the 1 second death rattle at startup and I'm a little worried its rod knock. The only positive thing is that right now the engine sounds and drives fine after the initial rattle, which is odd considering how damaging rod knock should be. The rattle at start has been going on for at least 8000+ kilometers of driving as well, and I figure the engine would have eaten itself by now if it was serious. The oil light comes on at startup for about a second but I think the oil light always comes on at startup. it's probably just piston slap. If my car hasn't ran in a few days it sounds especially bad. If you take the covers off you may see a lot of dust in there from bearings, but the best way to check the idlers is to take them off and spin them, which also means taking off the timing belt. Spoke to a friend of mine at the dealership today and he says they're doing more long block replacements on 2.5 turbos because of a bad batch of bearings. This is in addition to the problem of casting residue being left in the blocks.
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Dec 3, 2009 06:44
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Tremblay posted:Around the same time they are releasing a WRX premium with leather. That is going to be an expensive car WRX's with leather own. The 2010 limited would be at the top of the list if I had to buy something new. I have dogs, I need leather. (But I have an 07 Limited so I'm set  )
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Dec 3, 2009 17:25
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jamal posted:it's probably just piston slap. If my car hasn't ran in a few days it sounds especially bad. If you take the covers off you may see a lot of dust in there from bearings, but the best way to check the idlers is to take them off and spin them, which also means taking off the timing belt. Wow, so the piston slap can be that loud? This is like a loud BRRAAAPP sound right after it catches on start up. I figured piston slap was the noisy ticking type noise it makes for the first minute or two of cold driving.
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Dec 3, 2009 18:50
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I have an annoying whine I can hear when driving my '05 Saab 9-2x Aero, which pretty much an '05 WRX. It sounds kind of like gear whine. The sound depends solely on engine rpm, and increases in pitch and volume as engine rpm increases. It is not particularly noticeable until above 3000 rpm. I listened around the engine bay and concluded that it was coming from the A/C idler pulley. I replaced this pulley, and expected this to solve the problem as the bearing in the old pulley had a lot of play. Unfortunately, the whining noise was still there. I revved the engine with both v-belts disconnected and the noise was unchanged. Listening more closely it appeared to coming from just below and to the right of the A/C idler pulley.  Looking at the above manual diagram I think it may be the idler pulley 'C', which is not too expensive of a part. Does anyone know if this is the likely culprit and if I will be able to replace this part relatively easily? Maybe I can even replace this pulley with the timing belt in place and minimal disassembly? I hope it's not the automatic tensioner, which is just to the left of the idler in the diagram.
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Dec 4, 2009 03:35
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BatDan posted:Does anyone know if this is the likely culprit and if I will be able to replace this part relatively easily? Maybe I can even replace this pulley with the timing belt in place and minimal disassembly? I hope it's not the automatic tensioner, which is just to the left of the idler in the diagram. Watch this informative Youtube video and judge for yourself. I'd bet its pulley C. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZVEk0-UIE-k
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Dec 4, 2009 06:13
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that small pulley is always the first one to wear out, so I suppose it's possible. At 100k I recommend doing the belt, water pump, tensioner, and all the pulleys.
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Dec 4, 2009 07:52
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jamal posted:that small pulley is always the first one to wear out, so I suppose it's possible. As in replace all of said parts ? I had a 97 Legacy 2.5, one of the pulleys siezed , belt jumped and smashed the valves/destroyed the heads. $1500 bill thanks to a $20 pulley. Any way to check the pulleys to see if they are on the way out ?
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Dec 5, 2009 00:23
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jamal posted:that small pulley is always the first one to wear out, so I suppose it's possible. I only have 64,000 miles on this car. I figure I'll just replace this single pulley now. When I get to 105k I'll do all that stuff.
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Dec 5, 2009 00:36
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Me-262 posted:As in replace all of said parts ? I had a 97 Legacy 2.5, one of the pulleys siezed , belt jumped and smashed the valves/destroyed the heads. $1500 bill thanks to a $20 pulley. Any way to check the pulleys to see if they are on the way out ? yes all of them. You shouldn't need to worry about them not making 100k miles unless something is leaking on them. I lost a water pump at 130k, which meant new belt. then I lost an idler at 180k, which meant new belt and new idlers. Thankfully it was a old 2.2 and I didn't really hurt anything.
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Dec 5, 2009 00:41
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Just shy of 8 years of ownership and I rolled over into six digits today on the way home from work.
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Dec 5, 2009 01:52
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BatDan posted:I only have 64,000 miles on this car. I figure I'll just replace this single pulley now. When I get to 105k I'll do all that stuff. You're going to have to re-tension the cambelt while you're in there, so you might as well do the belt, idlers, tensioner and water pump now if you plan to keep the car for awhile. It's not all that difficult, actually - since you're dropping the water anyway, pull the rad and it's a piece of cake. (Can you tell I've got a naturally-aspirated 2.5L twincam? It's a red BD. Thanks for the lovely headgaskets, Subaru, in the otherwise awesome engine and car.)
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Dec 5, 2009 02:33
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