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Removed carpeted floormats and installed the winter set. We've got snow in the forecast this week. Cleaned the interior very well, it's been awhile since I have. Washed and waxed the exterior. Hopefully I get enough protection to last the winter!
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Dec 4, 2009 14:25
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I continued my tint removal project. Removing the tint a square inch at a time from the back window while trying not to gouge the defroster lines really sucks rear end. My front driver's side window is now free of tint and adhesive. I have about half of the back glass free of tint but there is still adhesive all over it. I have been going outside and spraying the tint with ammonia-based window cleaner every hour in an effort to weaken the remaining tint and adhesive. Remember kids: life is too short for lovely window tint. Pay for the good stuff and have it installed at a reputable shop with a lifetime warranty and a history of stable management.
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Dec 4, 2009 17:42
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PBCrunch posted:I continued my tint removal project. Removing the tint a square inch at a time from the back window while trying not to gouge the defroster lines really sucks rear end. Does Goo Gone work on tint adhesive, or will it just gently caress everything up?
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Dec 4, 2009 17:48
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Dreamt about it. It is fitting because we finally saw the dreaded snow A FULL MONTH AND A HALF AFTER I BOARDED HER UP loving GODDAMNIT.
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Dec 4, 2009 19:27
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Just bought four winter tires on steelies with two of the four in great shape, and got a line on two good tires of the same size 
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Dec 4, 2009 19:41
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Finally finished replacing these: with a pair of Bilstein TCs in the rear of my 245. Not surprisingly, the difference in the way the car drives is huge; I can't wait to do the fronts as well.
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Dec 4, 2009 21:06
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On my "fix everything on my sister's car project" today, I replaced the rear sway bar bushings and end links. The stock link bolts broke off as soon as I started to get serious about removing the nut. I had to sawzall the endlinks out of the bar, so it's a good thing the new kit came with everything needed except the bar to subframe brackets and bolts. Two things - Bushing grease is loving sticky. Put the endlink bolts into the suspension and get the nuts started before you secure the bar to the subframe. Going back outside now to further wonder how in the gently caress i'm going to replace the front sway bar and steering rack bushings. VVVVV oh yeah that reminds me. While I had the back end up, I noticed that I could spin one of the tires by hand. With the parking brake on. Yes, the parking brake cable goes to both wheels. Skyssx fucked around with this message at 23:00 on Dec 4, 2009 |
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Dec 4, 2009 21:07
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Rear rotors were toasted; replaced. New pads. Cleaned a little dribble from my timing cover (oh god no) and new pcv kit #6. Fly, fatass, fly!
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Dec 4, 2009 22:11
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Finally switched the RS 4 to winter tires and street pads. I haven't driven it since I got back from VIR on November 15 since I've been lazy about changing the brakes and vacuuming the interior (the worst thing about VIR is the sandy paddock). It's a good thing, though. Here's the inside of the passenger front tire: Looks like the TT won't be the only one getting new tires before spring. DogDodger fucked around with this message at 06:04 on Dec 5, 2009 |
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Dec 4, 2009 23:21
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FogHelmut posted:Does Goo Gone work on tint adhesive, or will it just gently caress everything up? The tint on the side windows in the back seat came off real clean with no delamination.
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Dec 5, 2009 00:32
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ssh posted:Rear rotors were toasted; replaced. New pads. Cleaned a little dribble from my timing cover (oh god no) and new pcv kit #6. Fly, fatass, fly! Baby's like new. Got my 30mpg back, and she idles at 80! 
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Dec 5, 2009 01:38
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Got rid of the pulsing pedal during high speed braking by replacing the old front brake disks which had a massive lip on them and put new carbotech panther plus pads all round. Finally got around to adjsting the handbrake on this drat car, I dont think it's ever been adjusted since I bought it almost 4 years ago. After going through the bed in procedure I can safely say my car has never stopped so well. That and ebc are garbage pads. Other things include wiring up the enginebay temp sensor so that the lil fan doesnt run all the time and also finding out the reason my radiator fans run all the time. After some expert advice it seems that because I swapped my old battered uk spec radiator for a turbo one off the car that my drivetrain came from I swapped the fans and everything else into my car. Apparently the turbo rad fans run off a thermistor but uk cars use a different relay, so my fans just constantly run when the ignition is turned on. Also I managed to find a guy who sells rebuilt celica a2w intercooler pumps as mine sounds like the bearings are dying.
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Dec 5, 2009 02:24
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PBCrunch posted:No idea. The ammonia-based window cleaner that I bought at the dollar store is doing a pretty good job of weakening the adhesive. It is definitely doing a much better job than the "Tint Adhesive Remover" I bought at O'Reilly's for six bucks. The only thing I'd be worried about with something like Goo Gone is that maybe with cheaper tint the plastic could melt.
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Dec 5, 2009 02:28
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Installed a Fumoto valve, changed my oil (Rotella T6), rotated the tires.
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Dec 5, 2009 02:55
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New rear shocks! New rear springs!  No more bouncing! No more sagging! No more rubbing!Heavy duty on both counts, so it should be able to take a few people sitting in the back. Old ones weren't anything like Daion's though, goddamn son, what the gently caress.
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Dec 5, 2009 07:57
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Disassembled my center console (parking brake bezel, shifter bezel and cup holders) and cleaned a decades worth of spilled coffee, food crumbs, and gross tarry smoker residue out of it. Also replaced the burnt out bulb in the gear shift indicator and am polishing the paint stuff off the back of the shift indicator plate thing so I can switch all my interior poo poo to amber instead of green. Simple Green is the poo poo and after gouging the crusty corroded change out of the cup holders with a screwdriver, the tarry black horror left in them was vile.  Now they are clean and pleasantly pine scented.
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Dec 5, 2009 18:20
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DogDodger posted:Finally switched the RS 4 to winter tires and street pads. I haven't driven it since I got back from VIR on November 15 since I've been lazy about changing the brakes and vacuuming the interior (the worst thing about VIR is the sandy paddock). It's a good thing, though. Here's the inside of the passenger front tire: Did you overheat those? They are still well above the wear bars. And I have no idea how you lost that little strip on the inside.
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Dec 5, 2009 18:25
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Ziploc posted:Did you overheat those? They are still well above the wear bars. And I have no idea how you lost that little strip on the inside. Negative camber.
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Dec 5, 2009 18:53
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peterjmatt posted:Negative camber. I've never seen camber wear a tire like that.
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Dec 5, 2009 19:11
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Ziploc posted:I've never seen camber wear a tire like that. Too much camber and way too much caster.
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Dec 5, 2009 19:28
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Went and paid for it. 1994 Volkswagen Golf VR6. 2.8l engine, £300. Bargain. Signed all the paperwork, should be picking it up tomorrow and then it's straight to the garage for a new head gasket and that's about it. I'm keeping my Focus as my practical, economic car and this is going to be my fun car. When it's up and running I've got some more plans for it, most likely a lot of weight reduction and eventually a turbo conversion but I'm sure it'll be good fun as it is.
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Dec 5, 2009 20:39
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tobu posted:Not long at all but I doubt I'll be the last twenty-something male to put one of these into a ditch. Could have been worse. This popped up on a local message board today:  The tard actually thinks its repairable too (not insured of course)
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Dec 5, 2009 22:49
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I went to the junkyard to test fit a fifteen inch Maxima wheel on my sister's 2008 Nissan Altima 2.5S. The Maxima wheel did not clear the front brakes on the new Altima. I cleaned the windows with my new triangle on a stick window cleaning tool and then applied Rain-X on the outside windows. My brother-in-law had never seen Rain-X before and he was amused. While I was there I spotted a 94 Mazda MX-3 with a perfect driver's seat. My 1998 Ford ZX2 has MX-3 seats already but the driver's seat is all ripped up and the foam is bad. I took the seat home, swapped the seat belt buckle off my existing seat, and bolted the new seat in. Perfect. I also finished up stripping all the old tint and adhesive off the windows. The car is going to the shop for 3M tint on Monday morning. Then my wife got home and we cleaned the house a bit so it is nice when our guests come over to watch Nebraska hopefully beat Texas in the Big XII Championship game. Go Big Red! Tomorrow I'm taking it to my friend's shop to put a remote start on the car for all the cold mornings ahead. If I have time I am going to swap in my Alpine deck with iPod controls and my four-channel amp.
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Dec 6, 2009 00:37
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Ziploc posted:Did you overheat those? They are still well above the wear bars. And I have no idea how you lost that little strip on the inside. I didn't have a pyrometer, but the I kept the hot pressures coming off the track at 40 psi. No suspension work or damage (to my knowledge...) has been done since the car was aligned at Midwest Auto Group in March. I was lazy and didn't rotate the tires after the last track event, though. Mid-Ohio and VIR are both clockwise tracks, so the inside of the passenger tires see some action. The tire was inspected before VIR, and although the the left front tire's outer sidewall is rubbed down to the size information (picture taken in August), it doesn't appear as bad as this. So, if it's not due to my laziness or simply trying to hustle a 3900+ lb car around a couple of racetracks, I dunno.
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Dec 6, 2009 01:08
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Removed and cleaned out the blower motor, as seen here, from grandma's Corolla http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/d...f85c7ab9e&gan=1 For whatever reason the one on her car keeps getting full of some kind of tree nut and it makes the drat thing off balance so bad that it can't turn any revs - at least not enough to move any air. It's fairly easy to get to, four bolts around the frame of the glove box and a couple of screws at the top, pop the door sill panel off to get to that last bolt then just undo three torx screws and a Phillips for the power connector bracket and out it comes. she lives way the gently caress out in the country and it gets full of poo poo every so often, this is the third time I've cleaned it out. It's a 96 year model car and this is the only thing that ever goes wrong with it. <3 Corollas
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Dec 6, 2009 05:13
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Dropped the tank on my 99 Grand Cherokee ... again. It started leaking gas when filled again. Now I know why it looked like the PO didn't bother to tighten down the fuel pump retainer ring. Apparently, it is a complete bitch and a half to get the drat thing on without their one-off tool for screwing it on. What I had done was to screw it onto the top of the fuel pump, but not actually onto the tank. I thought it might have been stripped, so I bought a new one. Unfortunately the new one was even harder to get fastened on, so I finally got the old one screwed down pretty well with the assistance of my wife. The problem is that the fuel pump wants to come up and the ring is really hard to get aligned without the drat tool. After about 45 minutes, we managed to get it. I pulled up on the fuel pump valves about as hard as I dared and it didn't come off. If it comes off again, I swear I'm just going to epoxy the drat thing on.  Well, okay, maybe not. Maybe I'll get the stupid tool. As long as I had the back end up on stands (again), I put on new rear shocks. The old ones weren't as blown out as I thought, but I definitely tell the difference when driving. I want to change the front too, but I'm not looking forward to it. The top of driver's side shock is under a whole bunch of crap, and I have no idea how I'm going to get at it without taking a bunch of poo poo apart. Tomorrow I hope to finally fix the blend doors now that I'm done (hopefully) re-fixing poo poo.
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Dec 6, 2009 05:18
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my crx is finally put back together, the exterior body still sucks, but the suspension/brakes/electrical/engine/transmission/interior are all mint and in perfect condition. Now body work and it would be wonderful.
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Dec 6, 2009 05:32
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I drove my 2000 Mazda Protege for the first time in freshly fallen wet snow. It has new all-weather tires and started skidding all over the goddamned place at 15 mph. My dad was in the car and was like, "wtf is wrong with your tires?" :\
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Dec 6, 2009 05:56
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I hosed MYSELF! Yaaaaaay! I broke off a bolt head in a terribly awful place! For those not up to speed, i'm refurbishing my sister's ZX2 while she's in basic training. This includes installing urethane bushings to replace the rotted and all around lovely rubber bushings. Today was tie rod end and front sway bar day. I snapped apart both endlink bolts, which was fine, because I expected it and had a sawzall all ready to deal with it. 15 seconds of "brrrrrrrrrrrrr!" per side and that problem was dealt with. The driver's side sway bar hold down bolt came out with minimal fuss. I had to put a 14mm onto a U-joint then onto my ratchet which put it up just above the steering boot on that side. I was able to ratchet it 1 or 2 teeth at a time until the torque was broken. Then, I brought it out the rest of the way from the top with a 3' collection of extension bars. The passenger side bolt was having none such. I could get a socket and ratchet on it with a 1" extension, but the ratchet only came out enough for me to put two thumbs on it. I tried various things until I happened upon a 14mm 1/2" drive mid-well socket and 1/2" ratchet. Well that gave me half a hand's grip to work with! Success! It was moving! YAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY it completely sheared off the bolt head!  Cocksucker! I went underneath and there is a hole in the subframe where I can see the rest of the bolt sticking through. There's a nut welded inside the fully boxed subframe holding the thing in. Not so much corrosion, I don't know why the head sheared off. I hit up a Sears Hardware and got a set of extractors where you hammer them onto the bolt or stud or whatever metal piece you want to turn, except when I got home, they were all too large to fit through the hole in the subframe. Additionally, this hole is off center for the bolt. Why would it be lined up? I've been hitting it with penetrating oil, I can get some needle nosed pliers on it, but they're having no effect. Tomorrow i'm going to try to sacrifice a lovely 1/4" drive socket by hammering it onto the end of the bolt. I'm *hoping* that once it breaks free, it'll spin right out. Other wise, it'll be hammer, spin one click, hammer, spin one click, all the way down. If that fails, I have two options. Option one is to remove the entire engine and subframe, then drill and remove as normal. Which really isn't an option unless i'm forced to. Option two is to cut a bigger hole in the subframe, use the fancy stud removal tools I bought, then weld the hole back up again. I don't own a welder. Best project ever!
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Dec 6, 2009 23:27
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I repainted the end of the valvecover on my M50, and went and got 2 new 6x1.0 studs that I put a little rubber hose around to replicate BMW's ridiculous $15 engine cover mounts. I'm gonna do the covers the same flat black because the silver on top is all deteriorated and crappy looking, and I think it looks better anyways. I think I might even throw some dynamat on the injector rail cover because they are relatively loud.Skyssx posted:hosed 
Lowclock fucked around with this message at 23:37 on Dec 6, 2009 |
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Dec 6, 2009 23:33
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I replaced a burnt-out low beam bulb. I'd like to take a moment to thank BMW, for not only alerting me to the failed bulb on my onboard computer, but also making sure it would take longer to open the bulb packaging that to actually replace the bulb. I helped clean out my grandfather's Ford Five Hundred as well, since its going up for sale. The interior is actually a disaster and will need professional cleaning. It looks like someone spilled a coke in there years ago and never cleaned it up. I'm pretty sure there was mold in that stain as well. The smell was pretty bad.
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Dec 7, 2009 00:54
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Lowclock posted:Does your sister even know her car has a swaybar, or would she notice or care if it was gone? No and no, but to remove the bar would also require dropping the whole engine, etc, solving the issue of no access to the fastner.
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Dec 7, 2009 01:13
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I just installed a bunch of stuff that I have been collecting due to thier increasing rarity. rare: 99 CR-V Gauge cluster with the correct mileage 00 Civic Si Climate control 00 Civic Si CD Player 97 Civic Cupholder Not so rare: Alpine IDA-x100 headunit with 80GB ipod classic pics to follow.
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Dec 7, 2009 01:34
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Removed the coilovers from the Evo and put the stock suspension back on. Looks like a 4x4 now, welcome back body roll and brake dive 
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Dec 7, 2009 01:38
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Fixed the blend doors on my Grand Cherokee! Used a through-the-glovebox kit that was actually really, really easy to do. Also the passenger side motor turned out to be still good (whew), so I retain the climate zones. Saved $1200!  I have heat again!
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Dec 7, 2009 02:23
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Put my center console back together, attempted to clean upholstery but upholstery cleaner was lovely and after half an hour of rubbing with absorbent white cloths I was still bringing brown crud out of the seat I started on.  gently caress smokers. Gonna give it a shot with the steam cleaner next weekend I think.
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Dec 7, 2009 03:12
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Added something to the Outback today.           The result? Digital signal from iPod to speakers. No barely audible radio transceiver nonsense. Just a nice clean signal for great sounding audio. Done in preparation for 50 solid hours of holiday driving (25 hours one way).
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Dec 7, 2009 05:03
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pienipple posted:Put my center console back together, attempted to clean upholstery but upholstery cleaner was lovely and after half an hour of rubbing with absorbent white cloths I was still bringing brown crud out of the seat I started on.
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Dec 7, 2009 05:10
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Skyssx posted:No and no, but to remove the bar would also require dropping the whole engine, etc, solving the issue of no access to the fastner. It's not that convolutedly shaped, is it? You could sawzall it out it segment by segment.
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Dec 7, 2009 05:13
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Local Yokel posted:The result? Fixed in the name of 
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