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My front right turn signal bulb has gone out on my 09 WRX. I can't see any way to get to the bulb so I pull out the manual which tells me "This bulb is difficult to reach. Have a Subaru service center replace it". I'd rather not have to pay one hour of labor to replace a $2 part. After a bit of reading it looks like I have to remove the front fascia and headlamp assembly to replace this one. I may just go to the dealer and see if they will warranty it since I've owned the car less than a year.
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Dec 5, 2009 07:51
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That pretty much sounds like the same procedure as my '02 and it's easy as hell. There are like four clips holding the grill in, two more for the plastic spacer between the grill and the lamp assembly, and then two bolts to remove the whole lamp. I think it took me all of 10 minutes to change out a parking bulb out of the cluster.
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Dec 5, 2009 08:00
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This'll be fun - the rear wheel bearing quite suddenly failed. Hey look at the wheels wobble! Anyone got a normal procedure to change these thigns and what else should be exchanged while I'm at it?
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Dec 5, 2009 08:16
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Cat Terrist posted:This'll be fun - the rear wheel bearing quite suddenly failed. Hey look at the wheels wobble! What year and model do you have? Basic procedure is: Use hydraulic press and pucks/spacers/whatever you call them to press out old bearings clean knuckle/hub parts Properly pack appropriate grease in new bearings Press bearings into knuckle "Installation is reverse of removal" to put everything back together. Don't reuse axle nuts if possible, go spend $2 at the dealer or parts store of your choice and get new ones. Torque axle nut properly, stake nut with BFH and punch If I have the service manual for your particular model I can give you more precise instructions.
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Dec 5, 2009 08:42
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that's not even close to a good explanation of how to do a subaru rear wheel bearing. The best way to do it is to track down/borrow the dealership service tool. That way you can do it on the car without a press, and without even removing the upright, in less than an hour. The service tool consists of a slide hammer and a threaded rod with the appropriate sized press tools. jamal fucked around with this message at 10:37 on Dec 5, 2009 |
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Dec 5, 2009 10:32
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My tubrocharger in my '05 9-2x is sounding weird and not working. It makes a sound like its trying to rev up (or whatever they do) but can't quite get there. What could some causes of this be? Obviously I am going to have to take it to the shop, but I'm just curious what I'm looking at here. Is this going to cost a crapload of money?
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Dec 5, 2009 14:41
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jamal posted:The best way to do it is to track down/borrow the dealership service tool. That way you can do it on the car without a press, and without even removing the upright, in less than an hour. The service tool consists of a slide hammer and a threaded rod with the appropriate sized press tools. On that note the dealership, or at least the one near me, charges pretty reasonable rates for wheel bearing jobs. I got quoted $200 for a front bearing and that included the new bearing and an alignment. Not bad at all. 8ender fucked around with this message at 17:21 on Dec 5, 2009 |
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Dec 5, 2009 17:19
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bull3964 posted:That pretty much sounds like the same procedure as my '02 and it's easy as hell. There are like four clips holding the grill in, two more for the plastic spacer between the grill and the lamp assembly, and then two bolts to remove the whole lamp. The dealer told me that it's covered under warranty and it would take about 30 minutes so I'll let them do it.
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Dec 5, 2009 19:41
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8ender posted:On that note the dealership, or at least the one near me, charges pretty reasonable rates for wheel bearing jobs. I got quoted $200 for a front bearing and that included the new bearing and an alignment. Not bad at all. That's pretty much what the dealer quoted me as well. That is, before they tore it apart and found out everything else was hosed too.
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Dec 5, 2009 21:07
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yeah the bearing and seals cost about $100, but if the hub is grooved up, that's another $150.
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Dec 6, 2009 00:19
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jamal posted:that's not even close to a good explanation of how to do a subaru rear wheel bearing. Do you know where to get these special tools? If I went to the local dealer and asked to borrow their tools I think they would just laugh.
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Dec 6, 2009 01:44
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they would. I have friends who are techs, and without that I'm not sure how I would track one down.
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Dec 6, 2009 03:33
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I ordered the "STs" (Special Tools referenced in service manual) "Camshaft Sprocket Wrench (ST 499977100)", "Cam Sprocket Holder (ST 499207300)" and "Crankshaft Socket (ST 499987500)" from the company that makes them for Subaru North America: SPX Kent-Moore. They were bloody expensive ($100, $150 and $70 USD respectively), but they work perfectly. YMMV; SPX Kent-Moore's site seems to have changed so maybe someone else makes Subaru's North America's dealership tools now.
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Dec 6, 2009 05:27
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jamal posted:they would. I have friends who are techs, and without that I'm not sure how I would track one down. Sooo... without some special service tools what's the right way to do it?
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Dec 6, 2009 06:06
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If I couldn't track down the service tools i would probably pay someone to do it for mesofullofhate posted:I ordered the "STs" (Special Tools referenced in service manual) "Camshaft Sprocket Wrench (ST 499977100)", "Cam Sprocket Holder (ST 499207300)" and "Crankshaft Socket (ST 499987500)" from the company that makes them for Subaru North America: SPX Kent-Moore. They were bloody expensive ($100, $150 and $70 USD respectively), but they work perfectly. YMMV; SPX Kent-Moore's site seems to have changed so maybe someone else makes Subaru's North America's dealership tools now. most of those tools suck. The only one that might be worth using is the cam gear tool for avcs cams. The non-avcs cam gears have very shallow, rounded off teeth that are very difficult to get a grip on. I've just always wrapped a timing belt around the gears to hold them in place and it works perfectly.
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Dec 6, 2009 07:01
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ab0z posted:Sooo... without some special service tools what's the right way to do it? Take the hub off the car and use a press with a basic set of press tools.
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Dec 6, 2009 07:08
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ChunksNensja posted:Take the hub off the car and use a press with a basic set of press tools. So what I said in the first place?
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Dec 6, 2009 07:09
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So, standard procedure, nothing special. Just making sure and next weekend looks tl be a messy one.... rallycars are nasty to get under
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Dec 6, 2009 11:27
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So I got in an accident this weekend, and am now in the market for a new car. I've been looking at the Legacy 2.5i Premium. Only thing that is giving me any pause is the CVT. Anyone have any experience with one? Should I be wary, or do you think it'll work fine?
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Dec 6, 2009 21:07
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This is the first year they've used that CVT so it's probably hard to say about the long-term reliability. It's supposed to get pretty good mileage.
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Dec 6, 2009 22:13
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What are people doing for boost gauges? I was thinking of using this MadDad one with this little pod.
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Dec 7, 2009 00:18
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So now I'm starting to think my death rattle is an oil sludge issue. I've noticed some dark sludgy oil on the dipstick and remember seeing some bits of soft sludge on the oil filter when I took it out recently. I've kept the old oil filter around and I'm going to tear it apart and see what it caught. Is there any sort of magic solvent I can use to clean this out?
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Dec 7, 2009 13:02
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Well, I'm getting out of the tuner subaru game. My car is going on the block in about a month after I fix the clutch. Next stop: 05-06 Pontiac GTO I'll get back into subarus eventually. The GC body style remains one of my favorite Japanese car designs ever. It's just going to be difficult with me starting a job soon to spend so much time performing repairs and tuning. Plus, the GTO will actually get better highway mileage. I'll still have my beater though: 
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Dec 7, 2009 22:33
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dayman posted:The GC body style remains one of my favorite Japanese car designs ever. It's just going to be difficult with me starting a job soon to spend so much time performing repairs and tuning. I thought it was pretty broken in? What happened with it?
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Dec 7, 2009 22:49
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Disgustipated posted:So I got in an accident this weekend, and am now in the market for a new car. I've been looking at the Legacy 2.5i Premium. Only thing that is giving me any pause is the CVT. Anyone have any experience with one? Should I be wary, or do you think it'll work fine? We bought a 2010 outback with the 2.5i and cvt. Its been fantastic. Super smooth (no shifting). 30mpg or so on the highway. It also requires no fluid change if you dont use it for towing. ive even used the paddle shifters a couple times on the interstate when i wanna pass someone quickly.
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Dec 7, 2009 23:23
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kimbo305 posted:I thought it was pretty broken in? What happened with it? The clutch is messed up after the plug fell out of the transmission and the release shaft backed out of the hole. I think I bent some tines on the pressure plate. It also could really could use a transmission, the tranny in it now is fine, it's just that an engine of that power really needs a 6-speed. It's not so much that there's a lot of problems with the car, it's just the fact that tuned cars are never as reliable as a stock vehicle. Also, although the motor/tranny are low miles, the chassis is closing in on 200k. Originally I wanted to keep the car and swap the drivetrain into a newer shell, but it's not the right time in my life. Right now, I need a fully reliable vehicle that I'm not going to have to have up on jackstands every month. It would be different if I had a lift, or hell, even a heated garage would make a world of difference. Down the road I plan to by another Subaru after I've managed to buy myself a house and build the workspace that I want.
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Dec 7, 2009 23:47
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So it's winter, in Michigan, and naturally this means I have a car wash question. When the weather's decent, I just use the drive in bay and wash the car myself. Even in the winter I like to wash the car to keep the salt buildup to a minimum. There's no way I'm doing it myself when it's below freezing, so I'll use the automatic wash. For whatever reason, the majority of the car washes up here are the kind where you go in, put it in neutral, and it pulls your car through. There's a couple touch-free automatics, but they either suck, or are inconvenient. So is the "tow through" style carwash safe with a Subaru? I realize it's only like 100 feet, but I don't want to damage anything by getting the car washed.
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Dec 8, 2009 01:56
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Just a quick question about timing belt tensioners. How much play should the tensioner have with the engine off? Right now I can yank on my timing belt and get the tensioner to move a couple of millimeters up and down. If I pull on the belt and hold pressure I can get it to move up a centimeter over the course of a couple of seconds. I did this testing with the right side timing cover off so I wasn't able to see much else. Is this normal play for the tensioner? I'm reading all sort of reports that a bad tensioner could make a nasty death rattle at startup like the one I'm experiencing.
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Dec 8, 2009 04:02
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This has probably been posted already in the thread but with the lack of the search function it's a lot harder to go through the pages of this thread. What do you guys recommend for a decent priced/decent performance snow tire for an 09 WRX. I ask because I've been putting it off for the last month and it's just dumped over a foot of snow in the last 24 hours and there's no way I'll be able to get around with the stock tires on the WRX.
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Dec 8, 2009 04:32
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It depends - where are you located? Most guys here are running Hakkapeliittas, but I'd be surprised if they're the best possible tire for the car. If you're somewhere that doesn't have snow very often you could probably get by with a decently siped snow tire. I run Goodyear Nordics but I don't know if they're available for the WRX or if they're appropriate for giving 'er.
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Dec 8, 2009 04:34
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Seat Safety Switch posted:It depends - where are you located? NW Nevada, snow is usually pretty common through at least February.
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Dec 8, 2009 05:07
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8ender posted:So now I'm starting to think my death rattle is an oil sludge issue. I've noticed some dark sludgy oil on the dipstick and remember seeing some bits of soft sludge on the oil filter when I took it out recently. I've kept the old oil filter around and I'm going to tear it apart and see what it caught. LordOfThePants posted:
Seat Safety Switch posted:It depends - where are you located? That said, they ain't cheap. Check out the Michelins. What size are your tires, I have some 16in Nokian WRs to sell really cheap in NorCal. 
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Dec 8, 2009 07:23
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I know it's a YouTube video but I think everyone in this thread would appreciate it a whole lot. A Legacy GT Spec.B pulling a Ford F-150 out of snow: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yW3064x5_aE Of course if it has already been posted feel free to make fun of me on the internet, etc etc. snadsnad fucked around with this message at 19:16 on Dec 8, 2009 |
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Dec 8, 2009 19:14
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That reminds me of my driveway last winter. I didn't shovel it all winter, I just used the AWD to drive back and forth over it until it was sort of flat. This laziness resulted in a lot of visitors cars getting stuck and needing to be gently pushed onto the street with the Subaru.
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Dec 8, 2009 19:30
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Intervention posted:This has probably been posted already in the thread but with the lack of the search function it's a lot harder to go through the pages of this thread. Just get these and be done with it: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=General&tireModel=Altimax+Arctic Had the Hakka RSIs, and got these afterwards. These were just as good as the RSIs really, and factoring in the huge price difference (~$60/tire compared to ~$180/tire) made them even better.
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Dec 8, 2009 20:22
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TurboLuvah posted:Just get these and be done with it: I'm surprised you have no comment on my previous post, TurboLovah.
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Dec 8, 2009 21:00
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I'm picking up a free 96 Impreza LX with the 2.2l, AWD and an auto, anything I should look for in particular? It's got 112k on the clock, the belts are missing and the car hasn't been driven/started since 02. I'm filling the tires and having it towed via flatbed.
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Dec 8, 2009 23:10
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TurboLuvah posted:Just get these and be done with it:
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Dec 8, 2009 23:42
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I know its been answered a million times but what is the magic motul/redline combination for changing your trans fluid and the best to use in the rear diff? Edit: Motul 300/Redline Shockproof - 25/75 AnomalousBoners fucked around with this message at 00:56 on Dec 9, 2009 |
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Dec 9, 2009 00:22
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dayman posted:I'm surprised you have no comment on my previous post, TurboLovah. How I missed that, I'll never know. I know how you're feeling about the car, trust me. But please, take a little time and possibly reconsider. That has been your dream car for as long as I have known you, it's all you ever talked about, and you finally got it all together. Yeah there are some niggling problems, and yeah, a 6.0 GTO is a badass car for sure, but drat I will miss that GC, and so will you. Take it from someone who has owned and sold a bunch of awesome cars and motorcycles, you WILL regret it when you sell it, guaranteed. If you still want to get out of it, why not just snag a WRX for a replacement? Don't have to worry about swap problems.
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Dec 9, 2009 00:22
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