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Yeah, one sold a few years ago for $400 w/ a case... so maybe $300-350 if it's in great condition. http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=294351&highlight=zone
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Dec 3, 2009 16:56
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Would it be feasible to gut the electronics and replace them with a nice passive p/j pickup set? I would lose the value of the active EQ but that's a debatable benefit. The stock wiring is kind of lovely and the sound is a little dead, but I really like how it feels/plays, especially with my BEAD flatwounds.
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Dec 3, 2009 20:44
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A MIRACLE posted:Would it be feasible to gut the electronics and replace them with a nice passive p/j pickup set? I would lose the value of the active EQ but that's a debatable benefit. The stock wiring is kind of lovely and the sound is a little dead, but I really like how it feels/plays, especially with my BEAD flatwounds. It's possible. You could even take the opportunity to redo the control layout. Could have a Volume, Volume, Tone, Tone, then a 3-way selector.
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Dec 3, 2009 20:48
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scuz posted:Fernandes makes some decent instruments, actually. I would take the Fernie for a test drive and make sure the construction is sound (straight neck, good fret job, etc) and if you don't like the electronics you can always upgrade them. I'd say it's worth the $250. I'll second that. I've owned a couple of Fernandes basses that I would put up against any MIA Fender I've played. That said, $250 is probably a fair market price, but likely an excellent deal in terms of quality.
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Dec 4, 2009 02:04
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Cool thanks. I'm picking up a Hartke 4 x 10 tomorrow and it's rated at 400 watts I think. Will a 200 watt amp really blow it or is that a myth? The amp I'm looking at is a Gallien Kruger 400RB btw. e: I might still pick up the Fernandes as a second bass. My band wants to up and tour Florida over spring break and I think I should have a second one on the road with me as a backup. e2: well the amp is 200 Watts at 4 Ohm and the cab is 400 watts at 8 Ohm. I assume that matches up? A MIRACLE fucked around with this message at 04:27 on Dec 4, 2009 |
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Dec 4, 2009 03:38
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A MIRACLE posted:Cool thanks. I'm picking up a Hartke 4 x 10 tomorrow and it's rated at 400 watts I think. Will a 200 watt amp really blow it or is that a myth? With an 8ohm cab, you're only going to be getting about 100w out of that amp. More ohms = more impedance = less watts from your amp. And NEVER go BELOW the rated impedance of your amp.
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Dec 4, 2009 05:04
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Cool, so if I matched the 4x10 with, say, another 15 (or 18  ) I would get the 200 watts total power? I love science! I'll post a shot of my new poo poo tomorrow if I get it all worked out.
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Dec 4, 2009 10:15
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A MIRACLE posted:Cool, so if I matched the 4x10 with, say, another 15 (or 18 Yup. Also, I looked at the manual for that amp. 240w at 4ohms, and 150w at 8.
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Dec 4, 2009 13:38
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No, check it out: http://www.gallien-krueger.com/manuals/400rb.pdf It pushes 125 at 8 ohms or 200 at 4. The one I'm getting was built in the 80's or something.
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Dec 4, 2009 15:15
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A MIRACLE posted:No, check it out: http://www.gallien-krueger.com/manuals/400rb.pdf Ahh k, I must've been looking at an updated version. Regardless though, if you're looking at touring/gigging out a good bit, then you're really going to need a second cab in order to be heard in the mix. Unless everyone else plays rather quietly.
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Dec 4, 2009 15:19
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Yeah I'm looking at an 18 or a 15 to round out the low end? Or would another 2x12 or maybe 2x10 be better for low end. I like to play on the low B. My ampeg BA115 doesn't really cut it.
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Dec 4, 2009 15:22
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A MIRACLE posted:Yeah I'm looking at an 18 or a 15 to round out the low end? Or would another 2x12 or maybe 2x10 be better for low end. I like to play on the low B. My ampeg BA115 doesn't really cut it. Is the BA115 the only amp you've got? scuz fucked around with this message at 15:30 on Dec 4, 2009 |
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Dec 4, 2009 15:28
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Right now yeah, it was great for jamming, but I'm in a "real band" now and should probably upgrade.
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Dec 4, 2009 15:32
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A MIRACLE posted:Yeah I'm looking at an 18 or a 15 to round out the low end? Or would another 2x12 or maybe 2x10 be better for low end. I like to play on the low B. My ampeg BA115 doesn't really cut it. Scuz is right, it's not just the driver size. You need to look at the frequency response of the cab, lowest usable frequency, porting, etc. Also, there is a lot of debate about mixing-up speaker size in your rig. Has to do with phasing issues etc. That being said, I absolutely love my 410+115 setup and don't really forsee changing it in the near future.
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Dec 4, 2009 15:35
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How much money do you have to work with?Scarf posted:Scuz is right, it's not just the driver size. You need to look at the frequency response of the cab, lowest usable frequency, porting, etc.
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Dec 4, 2009 16:03
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I'm almost tempted to recommend saving up for a more powerful amp. I really have the feeling you're going to outgrow those 200w pretty quickly unless you guys have a kickin' PA system.
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Dec 4, 2009 16:04
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Scarf posted:I'm almost tempted to recommend saving up for a more powerful amp. I really have the feeling you're going to outgrow those 200w pretty quickly unless you guys have a kickin' PA system.  .It might be that the cab I have isn't doing its job, which is why I'm waiting to take the plunge to build a couple of BFM cabs. Edit: Okay, so I guess the settings on the amp are stupid high and there's something wrong with it. Awesome. And if THAT isn't the problem that means that I need to either build a couple of BFM cabs or get all new gear and I'm absolutely frozen with choices. Being crazy broke doesn't friggin help either 
scuz fucked around with this message at 19:28 on Dec 4, 2009 |
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Dec 4, 2009 16:06
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I think it'll be fine for the time being. We've only played a handful of shows, all house parties and my 115 was.. adequate. Bars will have a PA we can use.
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Dec 4, 2009 19:35
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A MIRACLE posted:I think it'll be fine for the time being. We've only played a handful of shows, all house parties and my 115 was.. adequate. Bars will have a PA we can use. Just always be sure you ask first. I can honestly say that only about half the bars we play at have PA systems. And sometimes it only consists of one power amp and a piss poor mixer. If it's a dedicated music venue, then yeah, they should have a setup with a sound guy. If it's just a bar that has bands play there, plan for the worst.
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Dec 4, 2009 20:41
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For sure, Knoxville has a pretty ballin local music scene, so most of the bars have at least a passable sound system with subs for shows. Even the tiny hipster venues like Pilot Light have decent PA's, and my 4x10 is way too big for that place. The band is preparing to invest in some better live equipment though. I think we're about to start getting regular gigs at a frat bar called Tin Roof
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Dec 4, 2009 20:53
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scuz posted:Yeah 200w gets eaten up pretty fast. My 800RB is having trouble being heard in a 3-piece rock band and its only competition is a 3-piece drum set and a 50w half stack Is building a cab really going to be that much less expensive than buying an Avatar 2x12?
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Dec 4, 2009 22:50
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warwick5s posted:Is building a cab really going to be that much less expensive than buying an Avatar 2x12? 
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Dec 5, 2009 02:44
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scuz posted:The real issue is I'm not happy with the frequency response of the B212N. And if I wanted a new cab, I would have to sell the one that I have now (I'm the Mayor of Brokesville). I figure I can get $300 for the B212N (they're $437 new), and that's more than enough for a 15/6 fEarfull, which will, by all accounts, be more even in frequency response dispersion. Also it allows me to build something Let me know if you do decide to sell the Avatar and feel like shipping it. If I end up keeping the Hartke head I'm going to need a cab to run with it. Is it 4 ohm? Anyway, I say 'if' because I'm really interested in those new GK MB combos. I want to try out the 210, which by the time I end up finding a cab for the Hartke would be: the same price (or cheaper), the same wattage (although I know watts aren't everything, 500 should be more than enough for my purposes), and less than half the weight (the 210 combo comes in at 33 lbs!). I'm going to head to GC today to see if I can find one to test out. I've got band practice tomorrow, so if I do I'll do a shootout to see who comes out on top. They're both supposed to be good amps, but I'll really be cheering for the GK because, come on, 33 pounds. That's like 10 pounds more than the Hartke weighs by itself. Anyway, that's if I can even find one. Edit: Ended up ordering the GK combo. Hopefully it will come soon so I can do a head to head comparison before my 45 days is up on the Hartke head. The Bunk fucked around with this message at 19:44 on Dec 5, 2009 |
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Dec 5, 2009 15:42
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A while ago I got a new bridge for my SX bass; I got it from Guitarfetish and it looks like this: It's a definite improvement from the old bridge, the problem I'm having is that I'm not quite sure how to intonate it. The saddles can be locked/unlocked with an allen wrench, and can move back and forth, the problem is that when the bass is strung up, the string tension prevents me from being able to move the saddles. I gather I'm supposed to downtune the string to give some slack, adjust the saddle, and then tune back up again to check the results? This isn't a huge deal, but it just seems like sort of a weird design, and I wanted to make sure I wasn't overlooking something obvious.
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Dec 5, 2009 20:29
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h_double posted:A while ago I got a new bridge for my SX bass; I got it from Guitarfetish and it looks like this: Nah, I actually have a really similar bridge on my white Stambaugh, and that's how you have to intonate it. It won't move once you set it, though! 
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Dec 6, 2009 00:05
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Couple of questions. 1. My amp has two 4 ohm outs, and my 8 ohm cab has two ins. Should I connect them all together, or with just one speaker cable? 2. Passive p/j pickup recommendations? Preferably under $150. Thanks!
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Dec 6, 2009 17:55
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A MIRACLE posted:Couple of questions. Do not connect them all together. Just run one cable from the amp to the cab.
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Dec 6, 2009 18:03
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Does anybody have any experience with Mockingbird basses by BC Rich? I saw a guy on craiglist selling the bass with a Backline 112 amp for $400 and I wanted to know if it was a good deal or not?
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Dec 6, 2009 20:54
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would http://bass-guitars.musiciansfriend.com/product/Peavey-MAX-115-Bass-Combo?sku=481445 be an acceptable band practice/small gig amp or is there something better or cheaper i could look for?
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Dec 6, 2009 21:07
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STINKFACE posted:would http://bass-guitars.musiciansfriend.com/product/Peavey-MAX-115-Bass-Combo?sku=481445 be an acceptable band practice/small gig amp or is there something better or cheaper i could look for? I've used a bit more powerful version of this amp for a few gigs and practice: http://www.andysmusiconline.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=Peavey_TKO&Click=13997 It's just about what you need for a small bar or practice.. The lows are not too good on it though.. its more of a midrange amp (the one I have used.. I'm not sure about the one you linked) It's perfect for practice though, it can get pretty loud in a small room. I'd say if you are not wanting to waste money and wattage, get an amp and a cab separate to make a stack, so you can upgrade without getting a whole new setup.
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Dec 6, 2009 21:59
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MrClean posted:Does anybody have any experience with Mockingbird basses by BC Rich? I saw a guy on craiglist selling the bass with a Backline 112 amp for $400 and I wanted to know if it was a good deal or not? Depends on which "level" of mockingbird/how old it is. BC Rich's come in a few different price points Bronze, Platinum, NJ, and the USA made ones. The NJ stands for Nagoya, Japan don't let any one try and tell you it stands for New Jersey.
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Dec 7, 2009 01:29
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 Modded DS-1 trip report! BassJunkie730 on TalkBass came up with this mod. Components swapped-in: C = capacitor, D = diode, R = resistor C1 - 0.1 C2 - 1 C3 - 0.1 C5 - 0.1 C8 - 1 C10 - 0.022 C11 - 0.022 C12 - 0.047 C13 - 0.1 C14 - 1 C20 - 0.047 C21 - 0.047 C22 - 0.001 D4,D5 - 1N4002-T R17 - 15K Total cost from mouser.com: $9.72 The mod itself is pretty easy, but the only things that presented problems were the leads on the diodes; they are too thick to go through the PCB and need to be sanded down to a taper in order to fit though far enough to be soldered on to the board. Not easy, but not a huge pain in the rear end. The original plan calls for an non-polarized 1.0uF radial electrolytic cap in C9 but I forgot to order one so it's not in there. For those of you who would try this as your first pedal mod, keep in mind that the metal housing is used for the ground. Keeping this in mind will save you big headaches when you have the pedal apart for trouble shooting and all you hear is a 60hz ground hum. First impressions The low end is retained rather well for a guitar distortion pedal, provided the tone knob isn't raised beyond the 10 o'clock position. Beyond that the high-end is too high in the mix for my tastes. Unity gain on the level knob is surprisingly low, which I'm guessing is thanks to the beefier diodes in the D4 and D5 positions. If I had to guess I would say that this mod could give the pedal a 12db boost with the level knob at maximum, which is absolutely bananas. After messing around with the distortion knob, its higher settings nearly make this a fuzz pedal and ramps up exponentially near the maximum settings. After a few minutes... Swapping the diodes has also made this pedal almost amp-like with regards to dynamics; harder plucking/picking coaxes more distortion out of the pedal than softer playing does. This may suit some of you and it certainly suits me. Shifting from a rounder tone to a fuzzed-out psycho-trip is as simple as digging into the strings. The settings I've settled on are (in clock positions): tone @ 9, level @ 10, distortion @ 3. If I play on this setting lightly, the tone reminds me of the bass lick on Black Sabbath's NiB, and when I dig in the tone becomes very aggressive and fuzzy. I'll be using it tonight for the first time in a band setting and I'll report back.
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Dec 7, 2009 16:44
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Right on! I actually purchased a DS-1 with the express purposes of doing this very same mod (I even posted in that thread) but ended up never doing it because I got interested in Keeley mods for guitar instead. I still buy any used DS-1 that comes through my local GC for $20 though, and they are currently on sale (along with SD-1's) for $29 NEW- cheap as heck for a pedal that is super moddable!
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Dec 7, 2009 17:08
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Yeah, I wish I knew more about electronics and things so I would know where to put a MOSFET in the signal path or what effect capacitors and resistors have on tone and why Oh well, I can still read a map and get stuff done, and that's good enough for me at the moment.
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Dec 7, 2009 17:13
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Eeeee, getting my first bass today! I'm even more excited than when I got my Prestige RG. Question: What's the lowest you can reasonably expect to tune the bottom string and expect the fundamental to be discernable as a musical note? Also, what's the best way to allow the bass to be heard distinctly from a guitar tuned down to F#?
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Dec 8, 2009 14:01
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Duck and burger posted:Eeeee, getting my first bass today! I'm even more excited than when I got my Prestige RG. Question: What's the lowest you can reasonably expect to tune the bottom string and expect the fundamental to be discernable as a musical note? Also, what's the best way to allow the bass to be heard distinctly from a guitar tuned down to F#? The F# leads me to believe you're playing some kind of metal? You'll want to keep your EQ flat with a bump in the mids. Sure it'll sound weird when you're practicing in your bedroom, but don't worry about it; worry about how it'll sound with a band. The fundamental of the note isn't even heard in most bass notes, more so with lower frequencies. In my short time with a metal band, I was able to tune down to C on the E string. What you'll want to do is get some nice, thick bass strings to keep the tension up; try starting with 110's. A few questions for you: are you indeed playing metal, what kind, and how much money do you have to work with for an amp?
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Dec 8, 2009 15:14
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scuz posted:Welcome to fun! I guess it counts as post-metal/post-hardcore/classical. My guitars are down-tuned to F#/F#/C#/F#/A/D and F#/A/C#/D/A/C#. Was going to go with F#/C#/F#/A/D on the bass, which I expect to be pretty low tension, but I like that, and it's a 35". I'd like the bass to be an octave below the guitars so the second-fifth harmonics can ring. I'd like to avoid a really round and overpowering bass tone that crushes everything else. Needs to be more percussive and "present", which I guess is in the mid-highs/highs? The guitar is going to have some rhythm action in the standard bass guitar range already, so there needs to be a distinction. I'm using a pod x3 and not really planning to get an amp soon, but if you have any recommendations for sub-contra range equipment (in any price range) or think it'd be a serious step up, I'd certainly love to hear of it!
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Dec 8, 2009 15:38
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Duck and burger posted:I guess it counts as post-metal/post-hardcore/classical.  Let me rephrase: Is your playing style going to be very fast? quote:My guitars are down-tuned to F#/F#/C#/F#/A/D and F#/A/C#/D/A/C#. Was going to go with F#/C#/F#/A/D on the bass, which I expect to be pretty low tension, but I like that, and it's a 35". I'd like the bass to be an octave below the guitars so the second-fifth harmonics can ring. I'd like to avoid a really round and overpowering bass tone that crushes everything else. Needs to be more percussive and "present", which I guess is in the mid-highs/highs? The guitar is going to have some rhythm action in the standard bass guitar range already, so there needs to be a distinction. quote:I'm using a pod x3 and not really planning to get an amp soon, but if you have any recommendations for sub-contra range equipment (in any price range) or think it'd be a serious step up, I'd certainly love to hear of it!
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Dec 8, 2009 15:54
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scuz posted:
Not really, no! quote:In that case, cut all of your mids, with a little bump in the lows and highs. Sort of looking for a Fieldy (from Korn) sound, are you? That's pretty much what you described. Fieldy's a little extreme, but yeah. I'll be trying this first. Maybe try a dual tone or two with guitar/bass amps combined and see what happens. Thanks a bunch!
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Dec 8, 2009 17:23
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Duck and burger posted:Not really, no! Yeah Fieldy's taste in bass sounds is quite extreme since (if I remember correctly) he goes to great lengths to get every mid-range frequency out of his sound, which I don't necessarily agree with, but it's not my decision
scuz fucked around with this message at 17:45 on Dec 8, 2009 |
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Dec 8, 2009 17:42
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