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warwick5s posted:We just got 15 inches in Madison and the RE960's were incredible. Good to hear, I just recommended those to a friend of mine, but he doesn't have a subaru and didn't need a dedicated snow tire, just new tires that were good all seasons. Also, good to see another wisconsin wrx owner/dude/etc. With my '08 WRX, I have a set of WRX wheels from a 2002 - the 16" wheels. Should I go for 205/60 or should I go for 205/55? Would the 60 be too tall and throw speedo off a bit? I don't think that I would have to worry about rubbing would I? I was also thinking about running 195s to cut through the snow more but that might be overkill.
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Dec 10, 2009 17:10
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I'm running the cheapest snow tire I could find and love them. Kelly Snow Tracker sold through Sam's Club for like $47 a tire installed. I would recommend them to anyone.
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Dec 10, 2009 17:16
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It seems like Conti's ExtremeContact DWS might be an even better choice than the 960AS though: It got first in tire rack's latest all season winter test and second in the performance test Also, why the hell hadn't someone invented that letter wear-indicator thing before now?
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Dec 10, 2009 17:19
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8ender posted:This is a great article with some good testing of all-seasons vs snow tires vs summer in dry, wet and snow. The Pilot HX MXM4 tires are junk. They are not a good all season. They are currently ranked 22nd out of 25 tires in their category on Tirerack right now. It's like they deliberately took one of the worst snow handling all seasons for that test (and flat out one of the worst all seasons in general.) It's more of an article about how to not put bad tires on your car rather than anything scientific related to snow tires. A modern silica enhanced tread compound does not lose it's pliability in cold weather. I've had my RE960as tires in sub zero (F) temps many times and aside from a bit of flat-spotting when you start out, there is no noticeable change in grip characteristics. As far as wet handling, the RE960as's performance in wet weather is so good, the wet test results are nearly the same as the dry test results. For example, the braking distance from 50mph is only 6 inches longer in the wet for the RE960as than it is for the dry. That's a far cry from your 131ft dry vs 215 wet for the all seasons in that 60-0 test. warwick5s posted:It seems like Conti's ExtremeContact DWS might be an even better choice than the 960AS though: It got first in tire rack's latest all season winter test and second in the performance test Yeah, I'm anxious to see how the long term testing on those tires pans out since they are relatively new and weren't available when I put a new set on in early spring. The RE960as isn't current top dog in winter weather handling among the UHP all-seasons (but are still pretty much tops in wet weather handling). It's about time something comes around and challenges them since they've been on the market for almost 4 years now. bull3964 fucked around with this message at 17:36 on Dec 10, 2009 |
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Dec 10, 2009 17:21
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bull3964 posted:The Pilot HX MXM4 tires are junk. They are not a good all season. They are currently ranked 22nd out of 25 tires in their category on Tirerack right now. It's like they deliberately took one of the worst snow handling all seasons for that test (and flat out one of the worst all seasons in general.) It's more of an article about how to not put bad tires on your car rather than anything scientific related to snow tires. Let compromise then since we could argue about this all day: Winter tires aren't as bad as you say in the dry/wet and high performance all-seasons such as the Potenzas aren't as bad in snow as I say. My personal preference tends toward the best snow and ice traction possible in a tire for winter. Where I live temperatures in winter stay low, and often dip really low. I commute everyday along a 30 mile stretch of county roads, some paved, some not. Snow is common and stays on the roads for days. I consider snowy conditions the most dangerous of conditions in my commute year round. Thats when I want the most grip I can get. Dry and wet driving is a cakewalk compared to a good snowstorm.
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Dec 10, 2009 18:13
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ub818 posted:Good to hear, I just recommended those to a friend of mine, but he doesn't have a subaru and didn't need a dedicated snow tire, just new tires that were good all seasons. RE960AS' are so competent it's not funny.
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Dec 10, 2009 18:15
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8ender posted:Let compromise then since we could argue about this all day: Winter tires aren't as bad as you say in the dry/wet and high performance all-seasons such as the Potenzas aren't as bad in snow as I say. Sounds good to me  Yes, it really comes down to your usual driving conditions. I live around a major city in southwestern PA. We can get major snowstorms a few times a season, but usually it's just cold weather and salted wet roads with some slush. The most common winter weather condition I drive is is a light dusting on secondary roads after dark coming home from work before they have a chance to salt them down and make them wet. The highways are almost always clear (and make up about 90% of my commute) and if they aren't they will be after an hour or two. The biggest challenge around here is adapting to the weather. We frequently have 30-40 (or even more) temperature swings within 12 hours (like yesterday). I have an equal chance of getting 8 inches of snow in late September as I have having a half a week at 75 degrees in late December. I think I can count on one hand the number of times I had to drive on fully covered roads last year even though our average annual snowfall is somewhere around 42 inches. The big thing though is the tire categories aren't as rigid as the manufacturers try to market them. I have no doubt in my mind that a good chunk of tires currently marketed as all-season tires could pass the snowflake certification just as I'm also sure there are other all-season tires that are simply summer tires with a little better cold temp handling. It's more of a gradient of different performance characteristics as you pass from Max Performance summer all the way through dedicated winter tire and your best bet is to find the tire that matches your use profile the best.
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Dec 10, 2009 18:58
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I appreciate all the information that's been put forward here. After calling around and seeing what I could get today, I decided to go with the RE960AS. It seemed like the one choice that was least likely to disappoint.
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Dec 10, 2009 22:04
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bull3964 posted:I'm sorry, but no. A tire optimized for snow clearing and has siping to get grip on ice is not going to be as optimal for water clearing as a good wet weather all seaason, they are completely different use profiles. One major difference between snow tires and all seasons and summer tires is tread depth. People frequently let all seasons and especially summers run down and have shallow tread, radically making it easier to hydroplane. While snow tires tend to give up contact patch for the sake of their tread blocks, they resist hydroplaning because of how irregular their surface is. I know the comparison test was a bit of an ambush by using a crappy all season, but even assuming some awesome all season could beat the snow by dozens of feet in wet braking distance, that isn't the whole story to driving safety. People still have to drive more carefully and within the limits dictated by the weather. The only easy conclusion to draw from the comparison is don't run summers in the snow. 8ender posted:Thats when I want the most grip I can get. Dry and wet driving is a cakewalk compared to a good snowstorm. Yeah, completely agree. Beyond the context of a skidpad test, it is so much harder to see and read road conditions while it's snowing than even when it's pouring rain. When you're the first car out, you have to look pretty sharp just to see where the edges of the road are.
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Dec 10, 2009 22:29
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kimbo305 posted:One major difference between snow tires and all seasons and summer tires is tread depth. People frequently let all seasons and especially summers run down and have shallow tread, radically making it easier to hydroplane. While snow tires tend to give up contact patch for the sake of their tread blocks, they resist hydroplaning because of how irregular their surface is. People let tread depth run out on winter tires too and assume they are in good shape in winter weather because they are winters. This situation can be exasperated by the fact that many winter tires have a different tread compound once you get past 45-55% of the tread depth. The tire that was fine 500 miles ago can change it's grip characteristics quite dramatically in a short period. It doesn't really matter what kind of tires you are running if you are running them beyond their useful life and aren't paying attention to them. Yes, you always need to adjust your driving habits depending on road conditions. That goes without saying.
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Dec 10, 2009 23:32
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bull3964 posted:It doesn't really matter what kind of tires you are running if you are running them beyond their useful life and aren't paying attention to them. In that sense, the comparo is appropriate, cuz tons of people run lovely Chinese "all-season" "tires." That said, I'm sure the RE960 will work out just fine.
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Dec 10, 2009 23:49
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Tremblay posted:Subaru's TPMS solution doesn't tell you what wheel is low. Only that 1 or more wheels is low. Unless you meant something else... I know nothing about TPM systems, but based on the tool that TireRack sent to me, it seems like the car must know that sensor 1 of 4 is on the front left tire. If it senses sensor 3 there, it gives a TPMS error. I'll know more this weekend when I have a chance to pull my scantool out.
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Dec 11, 2009 01:57
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We've been getting blasted with snow here in Maine. For the tires debate, I have mediocre Arctic Claw winter tires that my parents got me before I knew poo poo about cars, on wrx 16's. Summers are RE01's on wrx 16's. Works for me, although I'm getting more into dirt driving now so the RE01's might be complemented with some 15 steelies with former rally team gravel tires. I've been loving around in the snow in every storm we have had so far. Subaru awd + dedicated snows is a force to be reckoned with. I'll try and get pics over holiday break. The rednecks get pissed when I fly by their bigass trucks. We cleaned my car off tonight to go on a beer run, and my friend was like "do we need to dig out the snow in-front of your car?", I laughed at him and told him to get in the car. If you are in New England and want to learn to drive better and safer in the snow, I highly suggest you look into taking the winter driving course at Team O'Neil School. It's money well spent. I'd be taking it but I'm kinda poor since I'm in college. Good news is I know a guy around here who is an instructor there and he's gonna give me some tips next time it snows.
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Dec 11, 2009 04:01
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I'm planning on doing the Jazzy aux-in mod in my Forester, and debating whether or not to get the ground loop interrupt and just put it in whenever I do the mod. I really don't want to listen to squesl, but I'm also cheap. Anyone else done this mod and regret not getting the GLI?
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Dec 11, 2009 04:17
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Done Jazzy's mod on 3, 6 disc Subaru head units, none needed a GLI, none had alternator whine/squeal. I have an extra one laying around for an 02/03 Impreza if anyone wants it, I can even install it in an 02/03 head unit as well.
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Dec 11, 2009 04:31
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Ribsauce posted:My tubrocharger in my '05 9-2x is sounding weird and not working. It makes a sound like its trying to rev up (or whatever they do) but can't quite get there. What could some causes of this be? Obviously I am going to have to take it to the shop, but I'm just curious what I'm looking at here. Is this going to cost a crapload of money? Anyone?
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Dec 11, 2009 04:52
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Bob Sapp Please posted:Anyone else done this mod and regret not getting the GLI? I did a similar mod on my old Protege5 without the GLI and everything was fine and sounded great until I tried to plug my ipod into cigarette lighter socket charger, then I could hear the alternator spinning up and down in glorious stereo. I ended up getting a GLI and installing it.
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Dec 11, 2009 04:57
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Slow is Fast posted:If you are in New England and want to learn to drive better and safer in the snow, I highly suggest you look into taking the winter driving course at Team O'Neil School. It's money well spent. It's a good class, but it's easy to get sucked into the full 4-day school (or more, depending on who you are) because you're right along everyone else there for the rally school. After the first day, you have to leave while everyone stays to keep learning other stuff. People who are serious about it should sign up for their mailing list, as they occasionally have really good discounts for classes. The only Subaru they have in their trainer fleet is an old GC coupe, with a ridiculously hard to get into 3rd seat in the back. But damned if that isn't the fastest and easiest car to drive by far.
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Dec 11, 2009 05:03
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8ender posted:I did a similar mod on my old Protege5 without the GLI and everything was fine and sounded great until I tried to plug my ipod into cigarette lighter socket charger, then I could hear the alternator spinning up and down in glorious stereo. I ended up getting a GLI and installing it. I have that problem with the AuxMod in my 3. At what point do you install the GLI?
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Dec 11, 2009 08:13
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kimbo305 posted:It's a good class, but it's easy to get sucked into the full 4-day school (or more, depending on who you are) because you're right along everyone else there for the rally school. After the first day, you have to leave while everyone stays to keep learning other stuff. People who are serious about it should sign up for their mailing list, as they occasionally have really good discounts for classes. drat, why is it so expensive.  $4k+ for 4 days, as an ex-student already in debt, haha.
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Dec 11, 2009 09:51
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Just Another XY posted:drat, why is it so expensive. The insurance and maintaining the cars, I imagine. I ploughed in a radiator and broke the brake lines on 2 separate cars on the 4th day. That wasn't even the worst damage that day. Last year one of the sessions was discounted 40%, you just have to decide to up and do it when the chance arises. Possibly one of the few really unique motorsports things in our area.
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Dec 11, 2009 10:00
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CharlesM posted:I have that problem with the AuxMod in my 3. At what point do you install the GLI? I bought a Radio Shack GLI like the one below and then used a combination of various converters to convert the stereo cable to RCA and back again. It was all stuffed under the console plastic and ziptied together. http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062214
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Dec 11, 2009 12:53
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Hey heres an idea posted:I know nothing about TPM systems, but based on the tool that TireRack sent to me, it seems like the car must know that sensor 1 of 4 is on the front left tire. If it senses sensor 3 there, it gives a TPMS error. I'll know more this weekend when I have a chance to pull my scantool out. I guess I should have said, short of the Subaru tool the car will not tell you which tire is low. Just that one or more is low. The receiver does know which sensor is reporting low pressure since each has a unique ID. However even with the tool you would only really know which side of the car to look on since we rotate tires front to back. What tool did you get from TireRack, the ATEQ?
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Dec 11, 2009 18:34
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8ender posted:I bought a Radio Shack GLI like the one below and then used a combination of various converters to convert the stereo cable to RCA and back again. It was all stuffed under the console plastic and ziptied together. Thanks!! I Found one from PAC-audio that uses the 3.5mm jack. This is going on my "Christmas" list
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Dec 11, 2009 19:19
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So, they did finally announced the price of the new STI SE last week. It's going MSRP for $2k less than the current STI. That seem like one hell of a bargain to me. Yeah, you lose the HIDs, mirror turn signals, upgraded stereo and automatic climate control. However, you are paying $2k less and get the Spec-C wheels and various suspension bits. I like that trade-off. If you think about it too, it will probably make the car cheaper to repair in the long run. Halogen bulbs are cheaper than HID ballasts not to mention that the whole housing would be cheaper if you had to repair the car after a wreck. Ditto goes for the mirrors, I would imaging the ones without turn-signals are cheaper to replace if you had to. Give me simple climate control with knobs any day over automatic stuff.
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Dec 11, 2009 19:31
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bull3964 posted:Give me simple climate control with knobs any day over automatic stuff. I kind of agree with you on this, I've never had to read the instructions to use manual hvac controls, but the auto system in the saab I got recently is mystifying. How confusing is the auto system in the regular STi?
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Dec 11, 2009 19:50
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I don't think it's that bad in my 07. I just leave it at 75 and everything on auto, click the defroster if it's frosty and click the seat heaters if it's really cold. My wife futzes with it all the time but she is pretty type-A.
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Dec 11, 2009 20:22
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Actually on that note does anyone else find that their Subaru has trouble staying warm in the winter? When it gets really cold around here I find the heat lacking once I get on the highway, and I've actually watched the temp gauge go back down while sitting in a drive thru lane. My old Ford Escort would burn you with the heat on high.
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Dec 11, 2009 20:43
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8ender posted:Actually on that note does anyone else find that their Subaru has trouble staying warm in the winter? When it gets really cold around here I find the heat lacking once I get on the highway, and I've actually watched the temp gauge go back down while sitting in a drive thru lane. I don't know about yours, but when I was camping in my turbo baja, we would usually get in the baja to warm ourselves up from the -10F nights. It might just be the turbo, but being too cold is never a problem.
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Dec 11, 2009 21:11
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8ender posted:Actually on that note does anyone else find that their Subaru has trouble staying warm in the winter? When it gets really cold around here I find the heat lacking once I get on the highway, and I've actually watched the temp gauge go back down while sitting in a drive thru lane. I've never had an issue and no matter what the external temp has been (even sub 0 F) I've always eventually had to turn the heat down if I've been in the car for a long time. My temp gauge never budges once it gets up to temp winter or summer.
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Dec 11, 2009 21:15
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On the plus side, I can't believe Subaru is still sending me free lift tickets at least once a year even after 8 years from buying my car. On the minus side, Subaru, you need to send the email out more than 12 hours in advance. It's kind of too late for me to decide to go skiing tomorrow. Not that the conditions will be worth a crap anyways since it hasn't been cold until this week and we've had no snow.
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Dec 12, 2009 00:15
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Tremblay posted:I guess I should have said, short of the Subaru tool the car will not tell you which tire is low. Just that one or more is low. The receiver does know which sensor is reporting low pressure since each has a unique ID. However even with the tool you would only really know which side of the car to look on since we rotate tires front to back. Yeah, its the ATEQ unit. I just think that the sensors I told it are wrong.
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Dec 12, 2009 01:06
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bull3964 posted:On the plus side, I can't believe Subaru is still sending me free lift tickets at least once a year even after 8 years from buying my car. How did you get this? Is free tickets a standard Subaru thing or something?
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Dec 12, 2009 02:29
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bull3964 posted:On the plus side, I can't believe Subaru is still sending me free lift tickets at least once a year even after 8 years from buying my car. Maybe that's the point. Send out tickets when they know attendance will be low to get more people to come in. About that though, like the person above asks, how do you get that? We've had Subarus in the family since '99. I'll have to ask my dad if he ever gets anything.
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Dec 12, 2009 02:41
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ab0z posted:I kind of agree with you on this, I've never had to read the instructions to use manual hvac controls, but the auto system in the saab I got recently is mystifying. How confusing is the auto system in the regular STi? Climate Control is great, setting it to 70something year round beats constantly adjusting the dial as the weather changes, or as the car warms up.
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Dec 12, 2009 02:43
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sanchez posted:Climate Control is great, setting it to 70something year round beats constantly adjusting the dial as the weather changes, or as the car warms up. I find that I still have to adjust mine a bit depending on the season. For the summer I keep it set around 68 and for the winter around 74. That said, I have to change the angle of the vents fairly regularly. When I have just gotten in to the car and I'm (cold/hot). Most of the time I need to keep them away from me and almost completely closed because in the winter my face burns up, in the summer my hands get cold, even on the lowest fan setting. However, if I have them like that when I first get in the car, it takes forever to get the passenger compartment to the right temperature. In my old Volvo I really could keep it at 72 all year, but then that car's compressor would occasionally lock up and force me to turn off the car to get the AC back.
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Dec 12, 2009 03:06
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Vladimir Putin posted:How did you get this? Is free tickets a standard Subaru thing or something? I just registered my car on their owner's website. Ever since then they've been sending me free lift tickets when they have events at the local ski resort.
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Dec 12, 2009 06:23
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Any reason not to buy something like this? Obviously there is the headgasket issue on this era of the 2.5. I imagine the price is pretty high, but they are rare in this area... http://saskatoon.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-cars-2000-Subaru-Impreza-2-5-RS-Coupe-2-door-W0QQAdIdZ163148834
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Dec 15, 2009 03:14
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Those should be pretty solid. Aside from the headgasket I'd look out for:
Those cars are much rarer in AB and even here that price is too high; the 2000+ RS is not nearly as rare as the 98-99 one is. He should move on the price at least $1k. Hell, you could probably find a JDM imported 1993-1994 WRX on the same chassis for around the same price. edit: Check the undercarriage for rust. You want to check at least the differentials; if they're leaking oil, you want to stay away from them. Additionally, if the owner has very recently topped up the engine oil (especially if there is too much oil on the dipstick when cold, which happened to me with a very suspect 2003 OBS) you should ask some tough questions. edit edit: Yeah, if you can deal with RHD and get a reasonable inspection done, you might want to consider those. Same chassis with a turbo. I'm not sure what to look out for on those models, though; I offered it as a comparison for what you could get with your money - for the price he wants and the mileage and damage it has, the 2000 2.5RS seems very steep. vvv Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 05:04 on Dec 15, 2009 |
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Dec 15, 2009 03:24
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Thanks, I'm looking at it on Thursday.Seat Safety Switch posted:
You mean like this? 1994 JDM WRX
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Dec 15, 2009 03:45
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