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Id4ever posted:
I would suggest checking out the E39 Forums on Bimmerfest or Bimmerforums and searching there. I had similar probs until my shift bushings were replaced at 70k miles. Additionally, I notice that with the Swepco 210 manual transmission fluid I currently use that it's hard to shift during the winter until it warms up a bit and I drive a few miles (under 45 deg F). With the Red Line fluids I don't notice as much. wolrah posted:
Grey is good to hide brake dust, my other rims are black and hide it even better! I put a shitload of work into this car since I got it as a CPO back in 2005. It's been mechanically bulletproof though. Only once E92 M3's get below $40k would I consider ditching it. Keyser_Soze fucked around with this message at 23:39 on Dec 9, 2009 |
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Dec 9, 2009 23:37
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meatpimp posted:
I'm a fan of HRE if you want to go with a non-OEM wheel. They're light and very well made. Expect to pay between 3-6k for a new set of any of that class of rim. If those are actual Hamanns and not repos then it is a deal. You'd definitely need spacers if you want to fit them to an e90 M3 though, and even then they may not have enough backspacing to clear the calipers. VVV Edit: eh, I like most BBS rims (the LM is a fine choice) but the CX-Rs don't do it for me at all. To each his own. Ethelinda Sapsea fucked around with this message at 05:14 on Dec 10, 2009 |
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Dec 10, 2009 01:33
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meatpimp posted:He wants something like these Harmanns, or the similar AC Schnitzer 5 spokes. Every one I've seen has been "WOW, These are $4000 new," what is a real price for a set of BMW Tuner wheels? What would you suggest to get the best buy for replacement wheels? $4000+ is the going rate for performance German wheels, especially in the sizes you'll need. Unless your dad is looking for some blang blang wheels for his fine piece of Bavarian Engineering then he can get a set of four of those off any Craigslist in America for under a grand. What I'm saying is put some BBS LMs on there. Gold mesh. Polished rim. Bonus awesome points if it's a white E90. The $4000 would be worth it every time he looks back at his car after parking it. At least I would. Edit: After making this post I went over to tirerack to dream/drool and holy poo poo the new BBS CX-Rs are the coolest loving wheels I have ever seen. Definitely not for this situation, but holy poo poo you all should check them out. Doctor Grape Ape fucked around with this message at 03:30 on Dec 10, 2009 |
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Dec 10, 2009 03:26
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Could anyone identify what type of 17" wheel this is?  I'm looking to buy these with Bridgestone Blizzak LM-22s mounted on them for the winter for my M3. Just want to make sure they'd fit. He's advertising them as them being from an M3.
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Dec 10, 2009 04:37
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They might fit. They're super-cheap Sport Edition brand wheels. You'd have to look up the sizing and offset to ensure fitment. Edit: I just looked them up- they won't fit e9x or e46 M3s, but they'll be ok on an e36. Ethelinda Sapsea fucked around with this message at 05:01 on Dec 10, 2009 |
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Dec 10, 2009 04:48
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peterjmatt posted:They might fit. They're super-cheap Sport Edition brand wheels. You'd have to look up the sizing and offset to ensure fitment. Thanks so much for this help. I know to stay away from them now! I just found them on Tire Rack now that I know their name. They're the AS2 or something and - dirt cheap. Listed as not fitting the E46 M3. Thanks again. VibrioCholera fucked around with this message at 05:36 on Dec 10, 2009 |
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Dec 10, 2009 05:30
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Id4ever posted:
The first issue is quite common on newer BMWs and is caused by not changing the gearbox oil frequently enough. My 530i and my 330i both did this from time to time. The synchros wear and don't allow easy shifting into 1st. You should NEVER shift into first while the car is moving AT ALL for this reason. You can't really do much about it other than change the gearbox oil and hope it improves a little. It did for me. Also, if it does happen, just put it into 2nd or 3rd and then into 1st. That usually does the trick. The second problem is also common and has to due with lack of lubrication in the shift de-tent for 5th gear. The parts are cheap, but the transmission needs to be dropped to access them for replacement. There is no harm leaving it the way it is if you don't want to pay for the repairs. Also, drat you Europeans and your better looking lights and body kits!  I really like the way the trunk lid looks with the wider cutout for the Euro plates, too.
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Dec 10, 2009 16:13
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Id4ever posted:Sometimes it can be a bit difficult getting it into first. I don't want to force it, so if I have trouble I'll put it back in neutral and try again I have problems getting mine into 1st sometimes as well, but if I shift into 2nd then neutral then first it goes in without any resistance. Might want to give that a try.
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Dec 10, 2009 19:32
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OK, thanks for the suggestions everyone. I bought the car with a warranty, so hopefully I'll get it fixed for free.
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Dec 10, 2009 19:55
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Does anyone drive an E90 328i? I was wondering why the gas mileage on my mom's is pretty terrible, average of 17.1 in 90% 'city' driving. My Mazdaspeed manages 23.3 and I'm not exactly hypermiling it.
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Dec 12, 2009 01:45
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I drove a 328 e92 for a few years and that's normal mileage. It's a big heavy car with a a fairly large engine. BMWs are not economy cars.
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Dec 12, 2009 02:41
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Battle Cattle posted:Does anyone drive an E90 328i? I was wondering why the gas mileage on my mom's is pretty terrible, average of 17.1 in 90% 'city' driving. My Mazdaspeed manages 23.3 and I'm not exactly hypermiling it. That isn't terrible depending on how she drives. I average 18.9MPG in an E46 M3 which isn't exactly a baby (and I don't baby the throttle either.) For some reason I would say her mileage is low if I was basing it on my own.
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Dec 12, 2009 02:46
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I wonder why bmw decided to go with 205/55 r15 for the stock tire size on the e30 325ix when LITERALLY NO ONE MAKES A SNOW TIRE THAT SIZE.
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Dec 12, 2009 23:27
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195/60/15 is a much more common tire size nowadays and going with a slightly narrower tread isn't a bad idea in the snow. The wheel assembly would be a little less than a cm bigger with that tire, but that shouldn't significantly impact the speedometer accuracy (BMW speedos all read a little fast to accommodate slight changes in wheel size). You have to remember that car was designed more than 20 years ago- what was a normal size back then isn't necessarily popular today.
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Dec 12, 2009 23:38
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peterjmatt posted:195/60/15 is a much more common tire size nowadays and going with a slightly narrower tread isn't a bad idea in the snow. The wheel assembly would be a little less than a cm bigger with that tire, but that shouldn't significantly impact the speedometer accuracy (BMW speedos all read a little fast to accommodate slight changes in wheel size). The tire you suggested would be cheaper and work better in winter conditions anyways so I would go for it. I have 225/45R17 Blizzaks on my E39 and while the tires are excellent they are way too wide for winter driving. They are also super loving soft which would not be good if you do a lot of travel. However the car is extremely capable and probably more fun to drive in the winter than the summer (300hp in the snow gently caress yes).
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Dec 13, 2009 01:19
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Battle Cattle posted:Does anyone drive an E90 328i? I was wondering why the gas mileage on my mom's is pretty terrible, average of 17.1 in 90% 'city' driving. My Mazdaspeed manages 23.3 and I'm not exactly hypermiling it. If she drives really short trips that sounds about right... if I drove a whole tank just to work and back (2 miles each way) in my E46 when I still had it I'd get about that.
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Dec 13, 2009 01:22
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VacaGrande posted:If she drives really short trips that sounds about right... if I drove a whole tank just to work and back (2 miles each way) in my E46 when I still had it I'd get about that. Sounds spot on to me. I average 17mpg city with a 4.4l V8 but that's because I'm amazing. My E36 2.5l got 17mpg city too.
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Dec 13, 2009 01:28
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Xenoid posted:The tire you suggested would be cheaper and work better in winter conditions anyways so I would go for it. I have 225/45R17 Blizzaks on my E39 and while the tires are excellent they are way too wide for winter driving. They are also super loving soft which would not be good if you do a lot of travel. However the car is extremely capable and probably more fun to drive in the winter than the summer. I'm about to pick up 265/35/19 Blizzaks since I run a staggered CSL wheel setup and the car is lowered. They have to be better than the UHP General Exclaim I have on it now. I can kick the rear out on dry pavement in the cold with little effort. That is how bad my tires are in the cold. So here's to hoping they work better because right now I drive a sled.
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Dec 13, 2009 02:02
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I'm on pizza-cutter 14" snows right now in an s50 swapped e30. I love sleds.
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Dec 13, 2009 02:17
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VibrioCholera posted:I'm about to pick up 265/35/19 Blizzaks since I run a staggered CSL wheel setup and the car is lowered. They have to be better than the UHP General Exclaim I have on it now. I can kick the rear out on dry pavement in the cold with little effort. That is how bad my tires are in the cold. No offense but at that point I would say gently caress it and buy a beater with winters for the season. Those tyres are fat as hell and won't contact the road that well through snow because of it. They'll also be loving expensive (relatively speaking I guess) and your car is lowered and on nice 19" wheels so it's not going to do that well if you actually encounter anything unplowed. It was $700CAD for all 4 tyres on my car and it's not super low, nor does it have the MTech bumpers so it looks a bit old but it makes it excellent for winter driving. Don't know if you've ever driven on Blizzaks but I find them to be excellent in winter, except they're a bit too soft if you actually do any distance driving. I don't, so it doesn't bother me, but after this season (the second one) they will be too worn for any future use. My summer tyres are Nittos (forget model) and are simply incredible. In low (0c) temps they were actually sticking to the road better than my all season tyres which had far more tread left and should have been better in the cold weather but weren't (some AS Michelins). My worst winter tire experience was some winter Michelins before they had X-Ice's. I managed to crash a car because when I came upon a slippery hill covered in ice (crawling at 30km/h mind you) it was like I was toboganning down it and literally had zero say on where the car went.
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Dec 13, 2009 02:31
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Real Life posted:I wonder why bmw decided to go with 205/55 r15 for the stock tire size on the e30 325ix when LITERALLY NO ONE MAKES A SNOW TIRE THAT SIZE. 185/65/14 - either grab a pair of bottlecaps/standard e30 basketweaves or some other 4x100 wheel. Much better to have a set of dedicated winter wheels you don't really care about, and you can always find a cheap pair of 14" e30 wheels since everyone wants the euro weaves (or to steal the iX specific ones, the motherfuckers). That way you keep the 15" weaves for the summer tires which you can actually get in 205/55/15.
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Dec 13, 2009 03:11
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Well, I'm now the owner of a e34 535i, and it's awesome. Drove it 3,500km since buying, basically across Australia, through 1,200km of unsealed, unfenced cattlefarms, and it's unbreakable. Throughly reliable, huge 80l fuel tank, comfy, it didn't even look like faulting once. I'm in love! Mind you, it's taken until today for me to find the original, sealed German medkit, the cigarette lighter, and the toolkit. It's like the gift that keeps on giving!
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Dec 13, 2009 03:55
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Apparently BMW has decided to release a faster, better z4 called, you guessed it, the 3.5is. Wait, what? They had to go with the dumb name or everyone would give them poo poo for going back on their 'no z4m' promise.
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Dec 13, 2009 05:51
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havelock posted:Apparently BMW has decided to release a faster, better z4 called, you guessed it, the 3.5is. Wait, what? sDrive35is http://www.autoblog.com/2009/12/12/embargo-12-12-09-6pm-est-detroit-preview-bmw-to-unveil-faster/ the only interesting thing about this car is it's electronic parking brake.
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Dec 13, 2009 06:08
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Crustashio posted:185/65/14 - either grab a pair of bottlecaps/standard e30 basketweaves or some other 4x100 wheel. Much better to have a set of dedicated winter wheels you don't really care about, and you can always find a cheap pair of 14" e30 wheels since everyone wants the euro weaves (or to steal the iX specific ones, the motherfuckers). IX e30s actually use a higher offset wheel than standard e30s. I'm not sure how much poke you'd have with 14" bottle caps.
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Dec 13, 2009 18:44
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peterjmatt posted:IX e30s actually use a higher offset wheel than standard e30s. I'm not sure how much poke you'd have with 14" bottle caps. None. Offset difference is only about ~20mm iirc, and The iX already has the wider plasic bodykit bits on the wheel arches. I know this pic is hard to see, but that is mine when I got it with 14" basketweaves and 185/65/14 tires. No issues whatsoever.
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Dec 13, 2009 23:57
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A little late for the snow tire talk, but I'm driving an e46 325i wagon (rwd) with 16" wheels (205/55 I believe), would the best solution be to get something a little thinner in a steel wheel? perhaps a 195? I'm on the west coast of canada and have never really bothered with winter tires before, but the area I'm in now is a little more hilly and treacherous if there is snow so I figured why not get a set. Knowing me the year I get the tires we're guaranteed to have a snow-free winter 
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Dec 16, 2009 01:27
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A centimeter of tread width won't make a huge difference- I usually go with whatever sized tires are recommended for the wheel. A thinner set of rims only makes sense if you're running super-wide summer wheels, or in the case of the above poster who couldn't find a properly sized tire to fit his wheels. 205 is a pretty normal width for a 7" rim, there's no real need to go smaller. And getting a cheap set of steelies with winter tires is a good idea no matter the size- as long as it fits on your car.
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Dec 16, 2009 02:12
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Good stuff. I haven't been in a tire store to check yet but when I try it out on tirerack.com it seems like they don't have steel wheels in the 205 size and they usually try to do a package with some cheapo alloys - but that would still be more than a set of steel ones. I'll check out one of the knowledgeable tire places around here now that the snow panic has subsided, probably a lot less busy right about now.
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Dec 16, 2009 02:21
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So I took my Beamer out Sunday, it was cold, but a nice day, and then around 11am it started freezing rain. I was pretty much the only one out, and the roads were horrible with ice. I slid around a few turns and fish tailed quite a bit. I'm used to driving in the ice and snow, so I wasn't too afraid, and I had a little fun with it, driving slowly, of course, and with no one around. I have regular all-seasons, nothing crazy on the car. I'm worried, though, for my wife. It's her first RWD car. I read about and got some advice and got a couple of bags of sand to keep in the trunk. It's been 50 degrees since then, so I haven't gotten to see how it helps. I took them out for now, but I'll put them back in if I hear about nasty weather coming. What is the AI consensus of adding weight to RWD cars to get more traction?
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Dec 16, 2009 03:37
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Jerk McJerkface posted:So I took my Beamer out Sunday, it was cold, but a nice day, and then around 11am it started freezing rain. I was pretty much the only one out, and the roads were horrible with ice. I slid around a few turns and fish tailed quite a bit. I'm used to driving in the ice and snow, so I wasn't too afraid, and I had a little fun with it, driving slowly, of course, and with no one around. I have regular all-seasons, nothing crazy on the car. get winter wheels, they will make the car great in winter. Adding weight to the rear makes the steering wheels have less traction so it's a terrible idea.
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Dec 16, 2009 03:49
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Real Life posted:sDrive35is No more handbrake turns?
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Dec 16, 2009 04:36
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flublandDrussiavelt posted:get winter wheels, they will make the car great in winter. Adding weight to the rear makes the steering wheels have less traction so it's a terrible idea. Really? Then why does everyone with a RWD truck in the Northeast do it and notice a substantial difference. It is far from a "terrible idea" and makes up for the weight difference those of us who drive RWD misbalanced Toyota 4Runners and Tacomas suffer through. They're deathtraps without weight and/or snowtires. But thanks!
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Dec 16, 2009 04:40
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You will notice some increase in traction by putting weight in the trunk of a BMW...but it's not that extreme. It's nothing like the benefit of loading the bed of a pick-up. And there's absolutely no decrease in steering traction when loading the trunk. However, the best thing you can do for any car in a snowy climate is to buy a set of dedicated snow tires. And if you drive on ice and your state allows it, studded tires are indispensable. VVV Edit: BMWs are in fact bad in the snow. Proper tires help a lot, but compared to almost every other car I've ever driven in snow (in a life spent in Boston and Denver) BMWs are some of the worst. They're still drivable, but as a general rule sporty, rear wheel drive cars equipped with open diffs don't make good snow cars. ...unless you like doing doughnuts ...which I do. Ethelinda Sapsea fucked around with this message at 05:51 on Dec 16, 2009 |
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Dec 16, 2009 04:57
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Readheaded posted:Really? Then why does everyone with a RWD truck in the Northeast do it and notice a substantial difference.
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Dec 16, 2009 05:41
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I was looking into buying an e90 328i, when I spotted this on craigslist:quote:I am selling my salvaged title 2007 BMW 335i sedan. This car suffered very slight frontal damage. The engine runs fine and everything works great, it only has 12,000 miles on it.. As you know, the 335i is a very quick and easy to drive car so this is a great deal for the price. This car was intended for my private use so unlike other salvaged cars, all my parts are brand new OEM parts bought from BMW and everything will be fixed to very high standards. I would never buy used parts for myself so the buyer will be getting brand new parts and there is no doubt over things such as quality and safety. This was meant to be a project car for me but, my plans have changed as I do not really have the time or money to put into the car. I just started a new business so the car must go. The car is not 100% done yet but will be done be the end of this week , at this point, I am just trying to feel out the market and hopefully give more information to people who are interested so someone could jump on this great deal before it is even done. Now, the deal is tempting, at 23k, and for a very low milage model, but the salvage title has me immediately suspicious. I email the person asking for pictures, and he replied: quote:Would you like to come have a look at it? The car suffered front damage, nothing major. It did have slight subframe damage, however instead of trying to be cheap and fixing it, I bought a new sub frame from bmw so it will be 100%. This car was originally bought as a project car, I am a huge bmw enthusiast, I own a 330i and an x6 too. This 335i was bought with the intention of having it be a show car, however, I just started a company and need to use the money for my business and cannot afford to keep all three cars. With this said, because the car was intended for me, I bought all brand new parts from bmw. Unlike many salvage cars who dealers buy to turn a profit, I did not cut any costs. You will see all the receipts if you were to have a look at the car. You will see that I will not be making any money off this, I just want to get my money back. This is such a great deal for whoever buys this car as it will be 100% when they get it and the savings over buying the car at the dealership is huge. This car, a jet black 2007 335i at a dealership with 11,000 miles would cost you $33,000 I am only asking $23,000. The bodyshop will also stand by this car, they are a very legitimate body in down town san francisco that work on exotics such as bentleys and so on. Please let me know if you would like to view it or have any more questions. I understand a salvage title has no warranty, but how do I tell if this machine has been restored properly? What should I look for? The seller is willing to provide receipts for the body work, and for all parts used in the restoration process. The car is the color I want, and is pretty much perfect for me, with the exception of a salvage title. I'll end up driving this car for a while, so the lessened resale value isn't an extreme deal for me. Is this a decent deal? And if any other AI goon is in the bay area, and willing to look at this with me, I'll be greatly thankful. I'll buy you dinner or something. proudfoot fucked around with this message at 09:16 on Dec 16, 2009 |
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Dec 16, 2009 08:01
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Just swapped out my valve cover gasket on my E36 M3 today (with a friend who was also swapping the valve cover gasket on his E36 M3 and who knew what he was doing). Seems to have solved my burnt oil problem entirely. First time I've ever done any real work on a car and I had the goddamn engine open. He was impressed that I was able to keep up with him and finish at the same time, just by watching what he was doing. Pretty proud of myself.  Honestly not that much different from working in a computer except for a lot more oil I guess.
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Dec 16, 2009 09:15
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flublandDrussiavelt posted:bmws already have good weight distribution, and you don't want to screw it up by carrying excess weight. Just because they're rear wheel drive doesn't mean they're bad in the snow. All you need is snow tires and you can drive in the fiercest blizzard, which is what i did last year. Hmm...interesting debate. I'll check out some snow tires. I want to get summer rims/tires anyways, so if I go with snow tires now, and then swap them out in the spring for my summer wheels and tires, I should be good. peterjmatt posted:
If I add the weight in front of or right on top of the rear axle then I agree, there can be no difference in steering traction. Infact, it can only help. Now, if I added 500 pounds in the extreme rear of the car, the the torque would reduce the weight on the front, but I'm not doing that. The weight I added is all the way inside the car in the trunk, so it's definitely in front of the rear axle. Super-NintendoUser fucked around with this message at 14:06 on Dec 16, 2009 |
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Dec 16, 2009 14:03
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peterjmatt posted:VVV Edit: BMWs are in fact bad in the snow. Proper tires help a lot, but compared to almost every other car I've ever driven in snow (in a life spent in Boston and Denver) BMWs are some of the worst. They're still drivable, but as a general rule sporty, rear wheel drive cars equipped with open diffs don't make good snow cars. My E36 is fantastic in the snow. I drove it and my old Altima (FWD, automatic) back-to-back in the same blizzard and my E36 was so much more controllable it was ridiculous. Both were on all-seasons as well. The fact that my E36 is a manual and has both ABS and traction control (where the Altima had neither) surely helped, but I really think the drivetrain layout helped quite a bit. I've got 80 lbs of salt in my trunk, and I like to think it makes a difference but honestly I don't know.
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Dec 16, 2009 15:08
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My E30 with snow tires dominates in the snow. Manual transmission helps I am sure, but no extra weight necessary in the back. I actually have to work to get it to slide or wheel spin.
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Dec 16, 2009 15:17
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