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PaintVagrant posted:Im not sure if anyone here has done much of it. Ive dabbled, but I probably wouldnt be able to write a good tutorial. There was an OSL tutorial in the last WD.
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# ? Dec 14, 2009 18:52 |
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# ? Jun 8, 2024 09:31 |
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Kestral posted:Thought for a potentially neat base: use Water Effects or something similar to simulate the snow melting from the heat of their flamers and other heavy weaponry. Hell, maybe you can even get steam, though I have no idea how you'd pull that off. It's a good idea, and something I forgot about. I'll have to plan that out though, probably going with that slush tutorial I saw someplace. I believe it's just water effects with some kind of opaque white aggregate mixed in (snow powder maybe). Absolutely something to test out, and thank you for reminding me about this. MasterSlowPoke posted:http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/vol/vol1282.htm?source=froogle That thing is pretty expensive. Cool idea though.
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# ? Dec 14, 2009 20:20 |
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I've not really been able to find A guide to OSL that is simple to follow and thorough but simply reading the various articles on CMON has given me a good idea of what to do. I think it's one of those things you need to practice at to get right.
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# ? Dec 14, 2009 20:44 |
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Sole.Sushi posted:That thing is pretty expensive. Cool idea though. It might be worth it if you built a diorama for the army (or a particularly impressive squad), drilled some fine holes in the terrain, then embedded the smoke generator beneath it such that the "smoke" filters up through the holes around the models. Goddamnit, now I may have to do this.
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# ? Dec 14, 2009 21:06 |
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Kestral posted:It might be worth it if you built a diorama for the army (or a particularly impressive squad), drilled some fine holes in the terrain, then embedded the smoke generator beneath it such that the "smoke" filters up through the holes around the models. Ya know, you could also do a piece of terrain that is hot springs, imagine the look on people's face when you put that on the table.
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# ? Dec 14, 2009 21:09 |
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lighttigersoul posted:Ya know, you could also do a piece of terrain that is hot springs, imagine the look on people's face when you put that on the table. Steaming hot springs in a snow-covered piece of terrain, with twisting spires of icy rock or frozen alien flora all around, the ground ruptured by jagged mineral protrusions. Hot drat. This could be a fun project.
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# ? Dec 14, 2009 21:35 |
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Kestral posted:Hot drat. This could be a fun project. I might do that for a scenic carrying display when I get that far, but for now, I need to focus on the army. God damned this hobby! Anyways, picture time! Here are four out of at least 20 I'm going to do, plus five terminator bases. I've decided to build up the bases a bit before priming, painting and adding the snow. Starting with slate, I built up with the mixed scree and a bit of talus with PVA. A close up of the mixed scree. For binders, I used Sumo glue to affix the slate to the bases, assisted with a bit of superglue to assure the slate will stay in place until the sumo cures. The Black Lava was used on the bare parts of the base to build texture, so when the snow is applied it sits unevenly, as to be more natural. Comments and criticism always welcome!
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# ? Dec 14, 2009 21:58 |
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Ugh, why did think cork would be a good base for my X-mas diorama. And why didn't i look at heed the directions about using the glue on a non-porous surface?! ah well, at least I though it wise to pin the models through the grass paper and into the cork... there'll just be weird uneven terrain that I can hopefully mitigate with snow.
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# ? Dec 14, 2009 22:56 |
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Cthulu Carl posted:Ugh, why did think cork would be a good base for my X-mas diorama. And why didn't i look at heed the directions about using the glue on a non-porous surface?! If it's not too late, I'd suggest pinning all the way through the cork and into whatever you're mounting it on. If it is too late... don't bump the diorama before you show it to us!
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# ? Dec 15, 2009 00:21 |
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Oh man what do I do with all these extra parts from a partially completed Space Wolves army that were given to me by a friend, considering I play a Deathguard army? I just don't know what to d- oh yeah that edit: I'll see you guys in about 6 months when I finish all 25 marines, 2 Rhinos, and 6 bikes. Fake James fucked around with this message at 00:55 on Dec 15, 2009 |
# ? Dec 15, 2009 00:52 |
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Aranan posted:If it's not too late, I'd suggest pinning all the way through the cork and into whatever you're mounting it on. The problem is the glue I used for the grass paper is starting to come up in places (here it is when it was still holding): Click here for the full 800x463 image. I think I'll be OK save for an odd rolling hills look. Pinning into the cork without glue holds OK (I mean, It's pretty much a nail), so a little supper glue helps even more. Also, everything that's going on there's plastic. Actually, the most fragile part is the "antlers" on the Grudge Pony. Here's a poorly-photographed update on it though: The girlfriend had some paper clay left over from a project, so I hijacked it to foray into sculpting on my plastic army men. I figured a Santa hat would make the troll more festive and a ribbon-like object (which hopefully will approximate a ribbon better when painted) would make it look more like he had a gift for the dwarves as opposed to something to lob at them.
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# ? Dec 15, 2009 01:26 |
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It looks like your models are all or mostly plastic, so that'll help as well. I was thinking you had some larger metal models just being held by flimsy cork, but that doesn't appear to be the case.
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# ? Dec 15, 2009 01:32 |
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If you still can, pull up the grass and apply some contact cement to both the grass and the cork. They make some spray stuff that works rather well, but make sure you spray that crap outside.
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# ? Dec 15, 2009 02:23 |
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So I will get my Fortress of Redemption and Imperial Stronpoint this week. Marvelous models (from the pictures I have seen), and I am really looking forward to assembling and painting them. However, in my 16 years of wargaming I haven't painted a single piece of scenery yet. My current plan is to go for a black basecoat, then drybrush with codex grey, to get a stone/concrete look. Besides that, I've got nothing. Is it even a good idea? Any advice? Help?
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# ? Dec 15, 2009 11:05 |
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OSL looks completely badass in 2D photos but is only about 60% as impressive in real life. In person, typically OSL looks like the model looks more like its got tasty icing on it than that it's actually emitting light. I think it has something to do with your brain processing 2D images by wanting them to be in 3D and filling in the blanks. Still, the photos are neat.
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# ? Dec 15, 2009 12:53 |
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Hey there OSL Gorman buddy Not a finished model, still needs highlighting and basing. My second attempt at OSL and it came out pretty meh. I guess I should increase the intensity closest to the vials?
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# ? Dec 15, 2009 14:43 |
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Anyone with access to the chaos marines codex have any idea how they painted 'The Cleaved' chapter? I want that pale pinkish colour
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# ? Dec 15, 2009 15:53 |
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Looks like deneb stone, highlighted with some ds+white, then white. The stains looks like chestnut ink and the old green ink. You could probably just use a dark green and a dark brown and guide the dripping more...
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# ? Dec 15, 2009 16:37 |
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EDIT: gently caress it, going to risk it with krylon, step by steps coming when I can.
Quantumfate fucked around with this message at 18:09 on Dec 15, 2009 |
# ? Dec 15, 2009 17:11 |
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I'm definitely going to try some OSL on my Night Lord Chosen Chaos marines when I give them a bunch of plasma guns I don't care how much plasma sucks in 5th edition I think it looks cool.
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# ? Dec 15, 2009 17:16 |
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Tarquinn posted:So I will get my Fortress of Redemption and Imperial Stronpoint this week. Marvelous models (from the pictures I have seen), and I am really looking forward to assembling and painting them. Try drybrushing them a lighter grey after the first one. I also did a drybrush of orange first on my last terrain pieces, then did the 2 drybrushes on top of that. It made it look rusty/aged
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# ? Dec 15, 2009 17:43 |
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drat, I think I found the threshhold temperature for spraying armory white. Its 34 here, and while the primer did stick, it was runny as hell. It ran all over my hands and got on my deck (ARGH). So the models are fine, but the can is covered with white primer. I think I might have stirred the primer too much...it makes it runny, and the cold weather seems to really exagerate that
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# ? Dec 15, 2009 18:13 |
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I spray in the garage. Roomates say it makes the whole house stink like poo poo but I don't care.
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# ? Dec 15, 2009 18:14 |
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!amicable posted:Looks like deneb stone, highlighted with some ds+white, then white. The stains looks like chestnut ink and the old green ink. You could probably just use a dark green and a dark brown and guide the dripping more... You rock !amicable
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# ? Dec 15, 2009 18:16 |
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crime fighting hog posted:I spray in the garage. Roomates say it makes the whole house stink like poo poo but I don't care. Ive got a separate garage, so that wont be an issue. I guess the issue is all the poo poo in there that I dont want to cover in spray primer, oops e: look at dis PaintVagrant fucked around with this message at 18:19 on Dec 15, 2009 |
# ? Dec 15, 2009 18:17 |
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PaintVagrant posted:Ive got a separate garage, so that wont be an issue. I guess the issue is all the poo poo in there that I dont want to cover in spray primer, oops I have this large plastic tarp I bought at home depot. I think this was it but I can't be certain, I recall it being cheaper but it was a while ago. I just toss it over everything then put my painting box on top of it. Works like a charm. My empty bottles finally arrived. I ordered the 12 pack of empty Vallejo bottles, these ones. What a difference it makes. Mixing and blending is so much easier with these bottles. If you're still using GW/Privateer Press pots you really owe it to yourself to order these bottles the next time you go shopping online.
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# ? Dec 15, 2009 19:12 |
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I just spray outside because it's always 77 degrees. quote:So I will get my Fortress of Redemption and Imperial Stronpoint this week. Marvelous models (from the pictures I have seen), and I am really looking forward to assembling and painting them. Do those kits go together in any particularly interesting ways, or are you assembling the bastions separate from the fortress? I kinda regret putting my bastions together in such a vanilla way, since I don't really play Planetstrike and just use them as regular buildings on my board. Wish I had assembled them in a more interesting form. gently caress. Edit: Hey PV, have you looked over the Infinity stuff at all? I'm wondering how much of the coolness you'd attribute to the models and how much you'd attribute to the paintjobs. I really want to buy some and either try the game or just field them as counts-as, but I dont know if I'll bother if I'd just wreck those models. Their promos are too, too gorgeous. Fix fucked around with this message at 19:58 on Dec 15, 2009 |
# ? Dec 15, 2009 19:55 |
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WTF is Malifaux, anyways?
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# ? Dec 15, 2009 20:02 |
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Iron Squid posted:WTF is Malifaux, anyways? Squad based skirmish combat game using cards instead of dice or something. They have some pretty interesting mechanics for army balancing. And kick rear end models, of course.
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# ? Dec 15, 2009 20:03 |
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Fix posted:
Bastard and your 77 degrees. And yes, I used to own some, and here they are, in terrible NMM glory (i suck at nmm):
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# ? Dec 15, 2009 20:07 |
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Were they fun to paint? I can see some of that being a bit of a chore to get right for someone with hands like mine. You're backed up to March on your commissions right now? Hrm.
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# ? Dec 15, 2009 20:11 |
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Yeah. They are a lot smaller in proportion than GW stuff...similar height, but much more slender. So they are more challenging, but they are sculpted very cleanly and are really badass looking
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# ? Dec 15, 2009 20:13 |
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PaintVagrant posted:Try drybrushing them a lighter grey after the first one. I also did a drybrush of orange first on my last terrain pieces, then did the 2 drybrushes on top of that. It made it look rusty/aged Thanks. I'll try that. (I suck at drybrushing.) Fix posted:Do those kits go together in any particularly interesting ways, or are you assembling the bastions separate from the fortress? I kinda regret putting my bastions together in such a vanilla way, since I don't really play Planetstrike and just use them as regular buildings on my board. Wish I had assembled them in a more interesting form. I don't think I can combine the models. I will however make one big and one small, bunkerish tower out of the bastions, I reckon. Tarquinn fucked around with this message at 20:27 on Dec 15, 2009 |
# ? Dec 15, 2009 20:23 |
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Arlaharen posted:Hey there OSL Gorman buddy The OSL looks good. And it took me a minute to realize you marked the front/back arc of the model.
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# ? Dec 15, 2009 22:11 |
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Fix posted:
I didnt see this part of your post, but yeah. If youre interested in some inf stuff, post in my thread I would love to paint some of that bidness
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# ? Dec 15, 2009 22:34 |
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PaintVagrant posted:I didnt see this part of your post, but yeah. If youre interested in some inf stuff, post in my thread Psst, I reserved the spot after Frobbe, I think.
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# ? Dec 15, 2009 23:15 |
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Tarquinn posted:Psst, I reserved the spot after Frobbe, I think. yeah you did, I forgot to add it to the OP but youre in Ill add it now
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# ? Dec 15, 2009 23:34 |
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Holy crap its taken 1 1/2 weeks but ive finished him Behold! my chapter banner! crappy cel pic inc
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# ? Dec 16, 2009 01:49 |
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Captain Scurvy posted:Holy crap its taken 1 1/2 weeks but ive finished him Behold! my chapter banner! I can tell you put a lot of work into this, but I just feel that something is off. One of the better paints can point it out. I think it's the lack of shading.
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# ? Dec 16, 2009 03:29 |
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# ? Jun 8, 2024 09:31 |
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Sanguinius as an ultramarine? But yeah, looks good, but your eyes go straight to those bright white wings on the chapter banner.
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# ? Dec 16, 2009 04:05 |