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ok fine whatever. I just wanted to know if you guys had an arts and crafts way to set up blown air, but I get plastic explosives instead 
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Dec 13, 2009 17:59
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Not to go all HSE on you but there isn't a lot you could do that's impressive but couldn't in some way hurt her if she opened it 'wrong'. I'd be tempted to rig a partypopper under like 20 layers of tissuepape to restrict the shot, however I'd want to make like 40 trials before hand & make sure she didn't put her head over it when it opened
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Dec 13, 2009 19:51
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Cakefool posted:Not to go all HSE on you but there isn't a lot you could do that's impressive but couldn't in some way hurt her if she opened it 'wrong'. Exactly. Bison wings, gifts are supposed to be spontaneous. You shouldn't have to require the recipient to put goggles on first.
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Dec 14, 2009 03:03
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bison wings posted:ok fine whatever. I just wanted to know if you guys had an arts and crafts way to set up blown air, but I get plastic explosives instead If it's a ring or something small you could put it at the bottom of one of those joke shop cans of mixed nuts or whatever with a spring-loaded snake. Otherwise, yeah, you're going to kill her. Do not rig gifts to explode on people by yourself. I don't even know a good way to do this but the only thing that seems even remotely safe to me is using air. If you have a really big box you could slide it over to her on the floor, and have a good old fashioned bellows system with a foot pedal for you to stomp on. I'm thinking of my old Ghostbusters trap toy that had a little foot pump you stomped on that flipped the trap doors open with air.
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Dec 14, 2009 03:09
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I just bought a house. We spent 5 days repainting parts of the interior, and now I want to re-do the hardwood floors. They're in OK condition physically, but there's some kind of crappy finish that's been applied on them (slapped on red stain, by the looks of it) that's peeled up in places and generally looks like crap. I think the previous owners just painted on some varnish or something without sanding/stripping what's underneath first. So I want to sand all the floors, then depending on the color of the wood, maybe apply a stain, and then put down polyurethane or some other sealant to finish. I have about 700 to 800 square feet to do, and I'll have 4 days. Everyone I mention this to gives me these raised eyebrows, and says things like "wow that's a lot of work" and "are you sure you want to do that yourself?" and "do you have help?" My natural inclination is to think they're all loving pussies and how hard can it be to sand down a floor and then slather it with goop? You can rent a sander, and obviously you need to not gouge divots or anything, but I'm pretty handy (I can blacksmith and weld and work on cars and so on) so I feel like it should be do-able. Am I wrong? Will it take longer than 4 days? Am I in for a world of hurt? ...also I swear I saw a thread where a guy just re-did his floors, but I can't find it now (using SA's now-operable Search function! Man, when did that come back, it's been gone for loving ages).
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Dec 15, 2009 07:12
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Figure you're probably going to spend a solid day sanding, half a day prepping for the new finish, and a couple hours to lay down each coat. What's going to kill you here is dry time. Most products are going to want 24 hours between coats, and figure you're going to need at least 3 coats. Also, make sure you wear a respirator lest you like passing out in the middle of a pool of fresh urethane.
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Dec 15, 2009 14:18
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Leperflesh posted:...also I swear I saw a thread where a guy just re-did his floors, but I can't find it now (using SA's now-operable Search function! Man, when did that come back, it's been gone for loving ages). Wait! It's back!?  Also, should you find the thread you're talking about, I'd like to see it as well.
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Dec 15, 2009 15:59
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Richard Noggin posted:Figure you're probably going to spend a solid day sanding, half a day prepping for the new finish, and a couple hours to lay down each coat. What's going to kill you here is dry time. Most products are going to want 24 hours between coats, and figure you're going to need at least 3 coats. If it only takes one day to sand, we're golden. We're going to use a water-based urethane, which (according to what I'm reading) only takes 2-4 hours to dry, as opposed to the oil-based urethanes which take 24 hours to dry. The difference is that the water-based stuff wants four or even five coats, whereas the oil-based stuff is thicker and only needs 3. Dragyn, yes, search is back. And it's FAST.
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Dec 15, 2009 19:33
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I can't get search to search only the forums I want for some reason, even trying every possible combination of "+" and "-", but maybe I'm just broken or something. Anyway, the dry time is really going to be what does it. Also, if you're renting a sander and haven't used one before, just be careful. From what I understand if you're not used to it you can go gouge way more out than you intend to. Maybe do a test-toast on a piece of plywood first 
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Dec 15, 2009 21:20
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Since the hardwood runs right into the closets in all three bedrooms, I'm planning to start in one of the closets. I figure if I accidentally make a divot or gouge in one of them it won't be as big a deal. When you use the search, up in the top right corner of the forums list there's a button that de-selects all the forums. Then you can expand/collapse the tree and only select the subforum you want. Keep in mind that you cannot search a forum without also searching all that forum's subforums.
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Dec 15, 2009 22:44
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Leperflesh posted:Since the hardwood runs right into the closets in all three bedrooms, I'm planning to start in one of the closets. I figure if I accidentally make a divot or gouge in one of them it won't be as big a deal. Get way, way WAY more sanding drums than you think you'll need. Like, if the guy at the store estimates six, get 20. You can return them, and it's awful to run out. Go with the grain. If the deck crawler doesn't get all the way to the edge, expect to spend the same amount of time doing the edges as you do the rest of the room. I sanded a 1200 sqft house in a day, as my wife did the edges. It was a lot of hard work, probably 12 solid hours of work sanding. The water-based poly did go down great; we used fans to dry the stuff in the recommended time and used 3 coats. It looked great when we were done. I cannot emphasize enough: don't sand anything by hand that you can sand with a machine. Use the largest machine for as much as possible.
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Dec 16, 2009 00:44
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benitocereno posted:I can't get search to search only the forums I want for some reason, even trying every possible combination of "+" and "-", but maybe I'm just broken or something. Neither here nor there, but I have much better luck manually typing "forumid:xx" as a search term, where xx is the number of the appropriate forum.
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Dec 16, 2009 01:02
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bison wings posted:ok fine whatever. I just wanted to know if you guys had an arts and crafts way to set up blown air, but I get plastic explosives instead
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Dec 16, 2009 07:10
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Not Memorable posted:If it's a ring or something small you could put it at the bottom of one of those joke shop cans of mixed nuts or whatever with a spring-loaded snake. Otherwise, yeah, you're going to kill her. Do not rig gifts to explode on people by yourself. Actually Spring-loaded isn't a bad idea, have the lid held closed with a ribbon & a spring-loaded mess of balls of tissue-paper & glitter etc underneath
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Dec 16, 2009 22:25
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NancyPants and kid sinister posted:Helpful stuff. Forgot to thank you. Thanks. So drat cold out now. Next time this will be taken care of during the fall.
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Dec 18, 2009 01:47
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Cakefool posted:Actually Spring-loaded isn't a bad idea, have the lid held closed with a ribbon & a spring-loaded mess of balls of tissue-paper & glitter etc underneath Just make sure the spring doesn't fly out along with the confetti. Personally I would just stay behind her when she opens the box, say "TA-DA!", and throw some confetti in the air.
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Dec 18, 2009 17:05
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We haven't used our fireplace in probably 7-10 years or so (shame on us). How can I tell if the chimney/flue is still safe to use without calling a professional? My house is over 100 years old if that is useful information.
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Dec 19, 2009 00:09
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dv6speed posted:We haven't used our fireplace in probably 7-10 years or so (shame on us). How can I tell if the chimney/flue is still safe to use without calling a professional? I had a chimney guy come look over mine as part of the home inspections I had done when I bought my house and he came over for free. He looked up the flue with a mirror and flashlight, then climbed on the roof for a look. In the end, my guy recommended filling some cracks in the chimney cap, and replacing the metal "hat" for $300 as "immediate needs," then suggested having some loose bricks in the firebox tuck-pointed (?) back in place if I ever intended to light a fire. A few months later I climbed on the roof and patched the concrete myself, but decided the "hat" was in fine shape, so I don't know if having a free inspection was just a way to sell me a ton of services or not, but hey, it was something.
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Dec 19, 2009 00:58
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I know this is very vague, but how much would a bathroom remodel run? We're planning on selling our house next year and we need to completely gut and remodel the bathroom. The mold-infested drywall needs to go, the rotted baseboards under the linoleum need to go, the sink, tub, toilet needs to go, new exhaust fan installed, etc... Bathroom's about 8x10 I'd say. We acquired a toilet and vanity already a while back.
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Dec 19, 2009 01:09
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^^ Speaking from extensive experience watching HGTV I'd say you can get away for around $15k at the cheapest and average 20-30k. Sounds expensive to me but I don't own a house so I dunno. My dad redid our whole bathroom out of concrete on the cheap. Concrete shower with bench, glass block walls, concrete sink and counter, etc.eddiewalker posted:tuck-pointed (?) Masonry term. It kind of means "fixed in place" as opposed to "rebuilding the whole wall".
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Dec 19, 2009 01:17
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BorderPatrol posted:I know this is very vague, but how much would a bathroom remodel run? How much of the work are you planning to do yourself? What would you like to use for new surfaces? How much electrical and plumbing is staying where it is?
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Dec 19, 2009 02:43
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kid sinister posted:How much of the work are you planning to do yourself? What would you like to use for new surfaces? How much electrical and plumbing is staying where it is? 1) Probably none, don't know if I feel comfortable doing much of anything on this bathroom. The baseboards are rotted (I can see the dirt underneath the house in some places) and the drywall is full of mold, so there's nothing I can do until that's been fixed. 2) Just the most basic materials as possible. This is a 50 year old house, our only intention is making the bathroom livable because I don't think it's sellable in this condition. 3) Most likely the 50 year old plumbing will need to be replaced. No clue on electrical, but I'm assuming it's all original and will probably need to go as well. It's probably one of the worst bathrooms you've ever seen.
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Dec 19, 2009 03:45
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BorderPatrol posted:3) Most likely the 50 year old plumbing will need to be replaced. No clue on electrical, but I'm assuming it's all original and will probably need to go as well. Bullshit. I've seen outhouses in the middle of the Canadian wilderness. You'd be surprised about the plumbing, copper is some pretty solid stuff. Now the drains and fixtures are another story... What are your drain pipes made from? Electrical might need to be updated. Do you have 3 prong outlets or just 2 prong?
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Dec 19, 2009 07:52
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kid sinister posted:Bullshit. I've seen outhouses in the middle of the Canadian wilderness. No copper to be found in this house, all galvanized steel. Last month we temporarily replaced a 10 foot section from the water heater to the bath with 3 rusted holes in it. Not sure off hand what the drain pipes are. Ceramic? No clue really. All outlets are 2 prong. It's got one of those in-wall heaters too but it hasn't worked in years. The exhaust fan in the ceiling was covered up with plywood and no replacement was made. My wife and I are currently living with her mother. Her father passed away about a year ago and we moved in to help take of care her mother and keep the bills paid, etc. The house was not very well maintained, and what repairs were done were all temporary fixes that became permanent solutions. It wasn't until a few weeks back we took the locking pliers off the bath handles and installed some real knobs.
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Dec 19, 2009 09:04
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BorderPatrol posted:No copper to be found in this house, all galvanized steel. Last month we temporarily replaced a 10 foot section from the water heater to the bath with 3 rusted holes in it. Yeah you'll probably have to replace the plumbing then. Those drains might be cast iron. Go see if a magnet will stick to them. If so, those should be fine as long as you don't need to move any. You might be in luck with the outlets. Get a circuit tester and take off an outlet faceplate in the bathroom. Test for a circuit between the shorter prong and the outlet box.
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Dec 19, 2009 16:00
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I have a Frigidaire front loading washer, and it will no longer turn on. No power period. For the month previous, it was having an issue where it would randomly turn off, then back on in a cycle, and I would have to start it over again. Other times when we weren't using it, it would randomly turn on and have to be turned off. From what I've read online, it sounds like it may be a loose wire, or the control board failing. Does this sound right, and are there any common places I should look for a loose wire?
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Dec 19, 2009 18:52
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Doubt it, but maybe the washer is plugged into a GFCI outlet that has tripped.
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Dec 19, 2009 19:58
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ease posted:Doubt it, but maybe the washer is plugged into a GFCI outlet that has tripped. Yeah it's not that, the gas dryer plugged into the same outlet works fine.
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Dec 19, 2009 21:44
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I'm moving into a huge loft warehouse thingie next month and me and my roommate need to partition off small bedrooms. I'm pretty handy and can probably figure this out, but anyone got any tips on doing this cheap and without having the whole thing fall in and kill me in my sleep? Also is there anything we can do to help sound proof them?
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Dec 20, 2009 02:26
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I've done that! My roommate and I built a more or less normal wall out of 2x4 and melamine panels over pink foam board. We made it a couple inches shy of the walls and put bolts in there to hold it in place. Sort of like furniture levelers - turn the bolt and a pressure pad moves closer to the wall. Put it against a stud in the existing wall so you don't do damage, and crank it down enough to keep it in place. Cheap and 100% removable. Pretty loving ghetto though.
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Dec 20, 2009 04:06
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brad industry posted:I'm moving into a huge loft warehouse thingie next month and me and my roommate need to partition off small bedrooms. I'm pretty handy and can probably figure this out, but anyone got any tips on doing this cheap and without having the whole thing fall in and kill me in my sleep? Also is there anything we can do to help sound proof them? I'd be more worried about effectively heating that place. Heat rises, so you'll have to heat a shitload of room space to keep it comfortable, not to mention warehouses for their original purposes were hardly ever heated and therefore not weathersealed very well.
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Dec 20, 2009 17:57
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Fortunately he lives in California so that is a moot point! I am so jealous. I've always wanted to live in a warehouse. How did you find out about the place? Corla Plankun fucked around with this message at 18:19 on Dec 20, 2009 |
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Dec 20, 2009 18:10
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Contrary to popular belief, it does in fact get cold and even snow in many parts of california. So it depends a lot on where in CA he is.
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Dec 20, 2009 18:27
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slap me silly posted:I've done that! My roommate and I built a more or less normal wall out of 2x4 and melamine panels over pink foam board. We made it a couple inches shy of the walls and put bolts in there to hold it in place. Sort of like furniture levelers - turn the bolt and a pressure pad moves closer to the wall. Put it against a stud in the existing wall so you don't do damage, and crank it down enough to keep it in place. Cheap and 100% removable. Pretty loving ghetto though. Cool, using bolts is a good idea. We have accepted this is going to be pretty ghetto but we have so much space we don't really need "bedrooms", just something big enough to throw beds in and have a little privacy. kid sinister posted:I'd be more worried about effectively heating that place. Oakland  I'm currently wearing a t-shirt and all my windows are open so I don't think this will be an issue.quote:I am so jealous. I've always wanted to live in a warehouse. How did you find out about the place? My friend and I are both working artists and have been on the look out for big warehouse spaces since trying to work out of a normal apartment loving blows. We had a list of 6 or 7 we went and checked out, my friend went to see an art installation done by one of the tenants at this place we're moving into and we heard they had a unit open. You can usually find them by searching around for "live/work" spaces. It used to be an old cookie factory, unfortunately ours does not have the original oven like one of our neighbors:
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Dec 20, 2009 21:15
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That is an absolutely beautiful space.
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Dec 21, 2009 03:49
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How do I attach wire to the back of these banana-jack/binding post keystones? http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10426&cs_id=1042603&p_id=2992&seq=1&format=2 Its 16g stranded copper I'm using and that little stick on the back of the jack is pretty small. Most soldering I've done I've been used to a little hole to start wrapping the wire around the post tight before you even start the soldering, this has nothing like that and I think the gold-plating is making it harder too, solder doesn't want to stick. I'm afraid to keep heating this thing time and time again cause I'll melt the keystone frame to it. Any ideas? use some dikes to cut some grooves into that post for solder to stick better? sand gold off? is there some other kind of connector I need to buy to attach to the back of this? Some kind of butt-connector? Vin BioEthanol fucked around with this message at 21:55 on Dec 22, 2009 |
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Dec 22, 2009 21:51
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Wagonburner posted:How do I attach wire to the back of these banana-jack/binding post keystones? First off, unscrew it from the keystone jack. Once you've done that Monoprice Knowledge Base posted:Question: How do you connect the speaker wire to the back of the keystone?
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Dec 22, 2009 22:36
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ahh thanks, never saw that knowledge base thing there. Sounds like I'm needing to be more soldering the wire twisted onto itself than I am onto the post thing. I bet I could strip a lot of wire bare and just tie it in an overhand knot onto there then solder. Vin BioEthanol fucked around with this message at 22:45 on Dec 22, 2009 |
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Dec 22, 2009 22:42
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Ask/Tell referred me here. I just busted my toilet tank's lid. It's a Crane, but I don't see any other numbers. Is there a way to mend it so it won't look like crap? Conversely, does anyone know of a retailer who could sell me a new one? What kind of info do I need off this toilet to get the right one?
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Dec 30, 2009 20:20
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Before I forget again. I just installed new garage door springs, wheels and such and it's great. But the door won't go down when I hit the remote button. it'll go up and stop on it's way up, but never down. I can force it down with the wall button, but it keeps trying to reverse up. I suspect the door may have been mis-weighed and I put springs that are too strong on, or the motor is going and it's too weak for the door weight. I've tried adjusting the down/upforce and it doesn't affect it at all. It's an old screw drive genie. 3/4hp from 1995. advise? I want to take the springs off and re-weigh it but I need another chump to help me hold it.
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Dec 30, 2009 21:33
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