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Any recommendations for decent online beginner dSLR photography courses? With assignments and stuff like that? I learn best in classroom settings and there aren't many actual classes around me that aren't for college students, in college.
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Dec 7, 2009 22:24
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Try googling for a syllabus, lots of colleges put that stuff online. I pulled up a few searching "intro to photo 101 syllabus".
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Dec 7, 2009 22:27
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Fredmiranda and SA have weekly/biweekly/monthly assignments/competitions. That would be a good place to start. You could also try taking a course at your local community college. The one near me offers night courses in pretty much every aspect of photography, and you don't have to be enrolled as a full-time student to take them. I took a darkroom class a while back and I loved it.
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Dec 8, 2009 00:08
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I'm looking for tips for long exposure night shots. This was shot out of a window of a house on a hill zoomed in to the buildings. I think I'm losing sharpness due to my video camera tripod not withstanding the vibration of the shutter, but could it be me? Any recommendations for tripods? Sony A550 16-105mm, 10" F8 
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Dec 8, 2009 00:22
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Timage posted:I'm looking for tips for long exposure night shots. This was shot out of a window of a house on a hill zoomed in to the buildings. I think I'm losing sharpness due to my video camera tripod not withstanding the vibration of the shutter, but could it be me? Any recommendations for tripods?
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Dec 8, 2009 03:18
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That's also really, really uneven. To answer your question, check three things: 1. Are you triggering the shutter with your finger? Use the timer, or get a wired remote for a few bucks from Dealextreme. (E.g. linky) 2. Are you getting mirror slap? Either find your camera's mirror lock-up option (Looks like the A550 lacks this  ), or hold some black card in front of your lens as the shutter opens.4. Are there environmental factors? If you are on a bridge, or any other man-made structure, people and vehicles moving around will cause vibrations. The wind can also cause your rig to move if it's on soft grass or something similar. SquallStrife fucked around with this message at 04:39 on Dec 8, 2009 |
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Dec 8, 2009 04:35
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SquallStrife posted:2. Are you getting mirror slap? Hold some black card in front of your lens as the shutter opens.
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Dec 8, 2009 08:32
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I have a large amount of raw files imported into lightroom2, organized in folders by shoot date. I want to convert all of them, regardless of folder, and store it in a similar folder structure as jpg. Is there a way to do this? The way I see it I can: - Select individual files, select Export (to disk), create the destination folder manually which is a huge bother for tons of files. - Export as catalog which does almost what I want except that it doesn't convert the RAW's, of course  Is there any way to do what I want within Lightroom 2? I can't find the answer for this and it's driving me nutty. Also is there a way to see if an image is exported or not?
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Dec 8, 2009 16:01
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Greybone posted:I have a large amount of raw files imported into lightroom2, organized in folders by shoot date. http://www.photographers-toolbox.com/products/lr2treeexporter.php Isn't LR awesome?
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Dec 8, 2009 16:43
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(Another) Lightroom question: When I right click a photo in Bridge and hit open in photoshop, camera raw opens from within photoshop first, but when I do the same from Lightroom, it does not. Am I missing something here? Is it because Lightroom basically has Camera Raw features built right in??
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Dec 8, 2009 18:10
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axia posted:(Another) Lightroom question: When I right click a photo in Bridge and hit open in photoshop, camera raw opens from within photoshop first, but when I do the same from Lightroom, it does not. Am I missing something here? Is it because Lightroom basically has Camera Raw features built right in?? Yes. The version that LR sends to PS is with the LR RAW processing already applied, so there's no need to do it again.
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Dec 8, 2009 20:09
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dunos posted:I think you can export the catalogue including negatives, create a new blank catalogue for your organised images and reimport from your exported catalogue file. It then gives you the option of how to organise the negatives on disk while preserving all the metadata (including edits). I just had a go at doing this, and all it can do is import using the structure that was exported.. no fancy import dialogue to ask me how I want them organised.
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Dec 8, 2009 22:50
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I have a somewhat odd question.. I've shot with a number of different cameras using RAW sometimes, and JPG other times. A lot of the photos I took when I first started I took in RAW which then got converted to DNG in Lightroom 2. Many of these older photos, though, I'd like to simply be converted to JPG, replacing the DNG. Mostly because space is becoming an issue and I don't want to buy another hard drive for my laptop. Lightroom 2 has a Library => Convert Photo to DNG.. but no Convert DNG to JPG. Is the only way to do this to export to JPG and then re-import into LR2?
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Dec 12, 2009 18:52
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So I've finally run into what seems to be a "banding" problem. I shot this with a Nikon d700 at 5000ISO (yes, this is pretty high, but usually i get fine images) with an 85mm f1.4 lens at 1.4 I'm very aware that I might be pushing the boundaries of the sensor of my camera, but I've taken and used quite a bit of 6400 ISO shots that turned out plenty clean. This photo in general exhibits horizontal banding on the lower part of the image, and it gets worse if I try to play with the tint to color correct it. It was a dark storefront and the only light from the shot came from the christmas lights through the window. I shot this JPG (forgot to turn on RAW, which I assume might have helped?). The d700 is usually a fantastic camera in low light - high iso situations, but this image remains an anomaly. Does anybody have any comments? Maybe it is just the sensor peaking out. Also, any ideas how to fix the banding post process? 
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Dec 12, 2009 19:09
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Chim posted:Also, any ideas how to fix the banding post process? What software do you use for noise reduction?
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Dec 12, 2009 19:11
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Chim posted:I don't see anything, but I haven't calibrated my monitor in about a month.
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Dec 12, 2009 19:34
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Chim posted:So I've finally run into what seems to be a "banding" problem. I think it happens on every camera at high ISO, especially ones that have been underexposed and then had shadow detail pulled back in post. Converting to B&W helps a bit.
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Dec 12, 2009 20:13
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UserNotFound posted:I don't see anything, but I haven't calibrated my monitor in about a month. If your monitor is too bright, you will see too much detail in the shadows (sounds silly, i know)
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Dec 12, 2009 20:17
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hmm. Maybe my monitor is too bright. I'm sorry if you guys have already answered this question numerous times, but is there a specific monitor calibration tool/ program that you guys recommend? HPL: I use Noise Ninja.
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Dec 12, 2009 20:25
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Chim posted:So I've finally run into what seems to be a "banding" problem. I see the banding. I have the same problem with the D700 under certain circumstances. High ISO, artifical light and a bit of underexposure is all it takes sometimes. I generally fix it by increasing the black level and adding grain. Noise reduction wont do a thing for banding.
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Dec 12, 2009 20:53
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Chim posted:hmm. Maybe my monitor is too bright. I'm sorry if you guys have already answered this question numerous times, but is there a specific monitor calibration tool/ program that you guys recommend? I'm calibrated I see the banding pretty obviously. I would maybe just patch tool out the more obvious lines. I doubt most of that would show up in a print. Other than that I'm not sure what you can do about it.
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Dec 12, 2009 20:56
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thanks for the help fellas.. i'll just try to avoid these circumstances from now on. I guess that shot was practically impossible to get anyway before the invention of these new fangled cameras, I'll just take what I can get
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Dec 13, 2009 00:54
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Timage posted:I'm looking for tips for long exposure night shots. This was shot out of a window of a house on a hill zoomed in to the buildings. I think I'm losing sharpness due to my video camera tripod not withstanding the vibration of the shutter, but could it be me? Any recommendations for tripods? put a glass of water on the window sill and leave it there to check for vibrations. Its pretty amazing, especially if you live near a road.
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Dec 16, 2009 02:02
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Alctel posted:put a glass of water on the window sill and leave it there to check for vibrations. Its pretty amazing, especially if you live near a road. Also useful for checking for nearby T-Rexs
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Dec 16, 2009 04:07
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krnhotwings posted:You can try setting the camera on timer and/or mirror lock up (if the A550 has this function) had to check to see if anyone else caught this, but the A550 wouldn't have this function because it's a point and shoot and not an SLR... Point and shoots don't have mirrors to lock up! the more you know but the timer suggestion was completely good
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Dec 16, 2009 04:21
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Penpal posted:had to check to see if anyone else caught this, but the A550 wouldn't have this function because it's a point and shoot and not an SLR... Point and shoots don't have mirrors to lock up! Are we talking about Sony Powershot A550, the P&S camera, or Sony Alpha 550 (A550, α550), the DSLR camera? e: Whoops. 
DanTheFryingPan fucked around with this message at 23:19 on Dec 16, 2009 |
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Dec 16, 2009 11:03
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Chim posted:thanks for the help fellas.. i'll just try to avoid these circumstances from now on. I guess that shot was practically impossible to get anyway before the invention of these new fangled cameras, I'll just take what I can get Not really. I used to regularly shoot Tri-X at EI 3200 and 6400.
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Dec 16, 2009 12:12
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brad industry posted:I'm calibrated I see the banding pretty obviously. It took viewing it off angle on a lovely TN panel monitor before I noticed it, and I have to admit I was looking for smaller sections of noise. I'll go home and see if I can notice it with a proper viewing angle on my $$$ calibrated IPS panels.
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Dec 16, 2009 18:26
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DanTheFryingPan posted:Are we talking about Sony Powershot A550, the P&S camera, or Sony Alpha 550 (A550, α550), the DSLR camera? The PowerShot is a Canon. Sony makes Cybershots. Anyone wanna buy a Minolta 5D for $1200?
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Dec 16, 2009 19:23
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I have a question about my camera and the elements. I'm a newbie and I just got my first SLR camera (Rebel XSi/450D). I'd like to take it out and shoot around the city. Is it bad to expose it to several hours of winter temperatures? Do I need to worry about condensation, warping, etc.?
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Dec 17, 2009 15:58
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thefreshmaker posted:I have a question about my camera and the elements. I'm a newbie and I just got my first SLR camera (Rebel XSi/450D). I'd like to take it out and shoot around the city. Is it bad to expose it to several hours of winter temperatures? Do I need to worry about condensation, warping, etc.? I've taken my XT/5D/5DMKII into the Chicago winters on several occasions. Someone might come in and tell me I'm insanely stupid but here's what I got for you... Overall it's fine, wait a little bit to let it "cool down" after you get outside for the first time but it should be fine. There was only once (the kind of day you wonder if your pee would freeze before it hit the ground) that the camera started acting funny. Your batteries won't last as long and you should look for some gloves that will allow you to change settings on your camera.
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Dec 17, 2009 16:07
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thefreshmaker posted:I have a question about my camera and the elements. I'm a newbie and I just got my first SLR camera (Rebel XSi/450D). I'd like to take it out and shoot around the city. Is it bad to expose it to several hours of winter temperatures? Do I need to worry about condensation, warping, etc.? I'd say that the only thing that might damage your camera is condensation when you go back inside. Moisture from the air will condense on the cold camera. If you have a camera bag outside with you, one way to avoid this is to simply leave your camera in your bag when you go inside. The bag and all the contents will warm up gradually. If you want to be even more safe, you can put your camera in a Ziploc bag until it's at room temperature.
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Dec 17, 2009 16:24
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Condensation is your biggest enemy. Before you get back inside, seal it inside a plastic bag until the camera gets back to room temperature. Any condensation that forms will be on the outside of the bag and not in your camera. And like benisntfunny said, your batteries are gonna suck if it's cold enough. Keep them someplace warm like in your pants pocket or anus. jackpot fucked around with this message at 16:31 on Dec 17, 2009 |
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Dec 17, 2009 16:28
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Tziko posted:I'd say that the only thing that might damage your camera is condensation when you go back inside. Moisture from the air will condense on the cold camera. Yes, this. going from dry to moist is the problem, and cold to heated usually fits the bill for those conditions. Equally applies to going from air conditioned interior to humid hot exteriors, e.g. tropical locations.
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Dec 17, 2009 16:28
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torgeaux posted:Yes, this. going from dry to moist is the problem, and cold to heated usually fits the bill for those conditions. Equally applies to going from air conditioned interior to humid hot exteriors, e.g. tropical locations. I assume the reason I probably haven't had any issues with this is I have never gone from cold to warm. Always cold, to cold car, to warming up car, to warm.
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Dec 17, 2009 16:54
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I hate to send you here, but it's a prime example of what a camera can do: http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/d200/d200-cold.htm
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Dec 17, 2009 16:54
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Here is example what of a weather sealed camera can do 
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Dec 18, 2009 01:38
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Haggins posted:Here is example what of a weather sealed camera can do Just don't forget that they don't warranty against water damage.
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Dec 18, 2009 01:39
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Thanks all for the reassurance, time to go explore Boston.
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Dec 18, 2009 02:18
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Haggins posted:Here is example what of a weather sealed camera can do He also talks about his 5d mk 2 in there. quote:The big surprise was the 5D Mark II. I used this camera as hard as (but not as much) the 7D and it performed superbly. I didnīt use any protection from rain or snow. The camera was used without the battery grip, which might have helped. The 5D Mark II has been on 2 expeditions to Svalbard (Arctic 80° North) and one recent expedition to Antarctica without problems, so the weather sealing is robust enough for most conditions.
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Dec 18, 2009 02:57
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