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My driver seat seems to have an excessive amount of play in it. I'll see what the dealer has to say about it.
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Dec 15, 2009 03:48
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bung posted:My driver seat seems to have an excessive amount of play in it. I'll see what the dealer has to say about it. Is it an 02 wrx? There's a known issue with the seat rail bolt backing off. The recall is basically loctite, but if it's been loose for awhile, it can enlarge the hole and pull through.
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Dec 15, 2009 03:59
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Hmm, I have the same problem in my 98 Legacy, I'll have to try that. I figured the fatty previous owner just wore out the stops on the track. I haven't gotten around to taking it apart yet.
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Dec 15, 2009 04:07
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my friend matt just got his new turbo kit finished up: those are numbers at the wheels. on straight 91 it makes 400whp. 06 wrx HB speed rotated turbo kit Tial V-banded GT3582R .63A/R perrin fmic forged pistons stock heads no tgv deletes gruppe-s UEL headers Aquamist HFS-5 26 psi by 4750 on a single-scroll 35r. jamal fucked around with this message at 07:11 on Dec 16, 2009 |
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Dec 16, 2009 07:06
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bull3964 posted:Is it an 02 wrx? There's a known issue with the seat rail bolt backing off. The recall is basically loctite, but if it's been loose for awhile, it can enlarge the hole and pull through. It's an 09.
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Dec 16, 2009 07:34
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Oh my, that certainly is a lovely looking dyno..
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Dec 16, 2009 12:59
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8ender posted:Oh my, that certainly is a lovely looking dyno.. That torque curve may as well be vertical. Must be a crazy ride. 200 ft-lb change in torque in the span of 1000 rpms. Must be like getting rear ended.
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Dec 16, 2009 13:42
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dayman posted:That torque curve may as well be vertical. Must be a crazy ride. 200 ft-lb change in torque in the span of 1000 rpms. Must be like getting rear ended. The best part is that its producing more horsepower at 3700rpm than my Subaru can produce at any RPM.
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Dec 16, 2009 14:32
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My 2002 RS clutch is slipping like mad. 121k miles on the car. Whats the cheapest clutch + flywheel combo I can get? Checked subarugenuineparts.com, but they didn't have poo poo. I think straight OEM should be fine right? Car is stock but I rallycross and generally beat the gently caress out of it.
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Dec 18, 2009 08:16
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Slow is Fast posted:My 2002 RS clutch is slipping like mad. 121k miles on the car. Whats the cheapest clutch + flywheel combo I can get? Checked subarugenuineparts.com, but they didn't have poo poo. I think straight OEM should be fine right? Car is stock but I rallycross and generally beat the gently caress out of it. Rockauto has a clutch and flywheel kit for your model for $211, which isn't bad at all.
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Dec 18, 2009 08:26
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having trouble with my 1999 impreza 2.2l engine with 160k miles. Got an oil change and some antifreeze put it about 3000ish miles ago. I opened the hood and noticed a ton of orange foam all around the antifreeze tank. Opened the radiator cap and its all foam to there. So i checked my oil and there was barely any in there (well below the low mark). So i assume its a blown head gasket. However the car has not once overheated, what little oil there was was fine in color, and the car drove fine. Is there another problem that would cause this? Because if it is the head gasket i am hosed since i cant afford to get a mechanic to fix it and i need the car for my courier job.
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Dec 18, 2009 09:06
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8ender posted:Rockauto has a clutch and flywheel kit for your model for $211, which isn't bad at all. Thanks, I haven't heard of Rhinopac, but it's a good place for me to start with on my research.
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Dec 18, 2009 16:51
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CraigSlice posted:having trouble with my 1999 impreza 2.2l engine with 160k miles. Got an oil change and some antifreeze put it about 3000ish miles ago. I opened the hood and noticed a ton of orange foam all around the antifreeze tank. Opened the radiator cap and its all foam to there. So i checked my oil and there was barely any in there (well below the low mark). So i assume its a blown head gasket. How long after you put in the oil did you check it? Could be a simple radiator leak or air in radiator + car eats some oil.
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Dec 19, 2009 14:52
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Just got an email from Costco that there's 0% financing on Subaru now, but unable to find mention of it anywhere else (I'm also eligible for the VIP program). Has anyone heard anything else about this or have an experience with Subaru financing?
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Dec 19, 2009 20:18
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jamal posted:my friend matt just got his new turbo kit finished up: Now post how many gearboxes he's gone through...
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Dec 19, 2009 20:41
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blargle posted:Just got an email from Costco that there's 0% financing on Subaru now, but unable to find mention of it anywhere else (I'm also eligible for the VIP program). Has anyone heard anything else about this or have an experience with Subaru financing? http://www.costcoauto.com/specialoffers/default.aspx Lists that it's just for 2009 models, presumably to make more space for 2010s, and only up to 48 months. Doesn't sound unreasonable, I know they were doing it brand-wide for a month or two before the 2010's came out, my 2009 2.5i is financed for 63 months at 0% because of it.
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Dec 20, 2009 00:00
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Baby Hitler posted:Now post how many gearboxes he's gone through... 3rd gear broke twice, once with an FP green making 430whp, 460 lb-ft, the second time it broke on a VF39 making something like 360lb-ft atw. Now he has ppg gears.
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Dec 20, 2009 10:49
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My LGT appears to reset the stereo/seatbelt chime on some cold starts. I'm thinking it must be losing connection with the battery briefly (it always starts) but I can tell because the CD player returns to disc 1 track 1, and my 'disable seatbelt chime' thing resets itself to 'obnoxious'. I've checked the battery terminals, and they're fastened securely. Does this sound like a wiring issue? The only slight rewiring I'd done was to integrate my sub behind the stereo via a wiring harness. While I could see this causing the stereo to reset, this seems like a bigger issue since it seems like a full return to zero for most customizable options. I had heard the stock batteries in Subies were a little on the weak side, and mines about 3 years old or so now, so I was considering getting a new one. Do you guys think that might help? It doesn't seem like it's a big issue, just more of an annoyance. edit: alright, thoughts on batteries? Diehard North Gold - $105 (w/ exchange) - 640 cold cranking amps (cca) from sears Autocraft Gold - $94 w/ exchange - 640 CCA from Advanced Auto parts Duralast Gold - $93 w/ exchange - 640 CCA from Autozone Traveller Advantage - $65 w/ exchange - 630 CCA from Tractor Supply Traveller Advantage - $80 w/ exchange - 850 CCA from Tractor supply The latter two, I'm not sure on the physical sizes of them, the other three, I put in my car so they're the right physical dimensions. Am I going to "get what I pay for" when it comes to battery quality? The only reason I'm considering the ones from TSC is that I bought my motorcycle battery from there over this summer, and I cranked on the thing forever at the end of the season, when I was having trouble with it, and it didn't give the slightest indication it was getting tired. Fantastipotamus fucked around with this message at 16:47 on Dec 20, 2009 |
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Dec 20, 2009 16:18
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What are people's thoughts on the 2010 WRX? My Accord has 200k on it and has enough chronic issues that I'm considering replacing it in the spring. I've always wanted a WRX and I've come to terms with the looks of the latest generation.
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Dec 21, 2009 03:15
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Dr.Zeppelin posted:What are people's thoughts on the 2010 WRX? My Accord has 200k on it and has enough chronic issues that I'm considering replacing it in the spring. I've always wanted a WRX and I've come to terms with the looks of the latest generation. The MPG might be down a bit, but in all I found it to be a good drive. It's handling is crisp and responds well. You can point the wheel where you want to go and it'll obey. Go for a drive in one and see if it puts a smile on your face, that should be a main point. (Only got to drive a wagon though) Edit: And while you're still thinking about doing it in spring, I'd suggest giving a WRX a test drive now while you're not in a buying mode. Without the element of panic, you can make a better judgement call on how well it suits your needs. FormulaXFD fucked around with this message at 08:46 on Dec 21, 2009 |
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Dec 21, 2009 08:43
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Is anyone here familiar with the brand Bully for a Subaru clutch? My friend is looking for a new clutch for his RS and found a "Bully Performance OEM Clutch" at a local shop. Any good?
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Dec 22, 2009 14:58
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does anyone here have an aftermarket stereo that matches well with a newish interior? I have a black interior impreza and i'm gonna pass on the scooby mod. But i guess my choice is ghetto function or ghetto look...
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Dec 23, 2009 06:04
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Demie posted:does anyone here have an aftermarket stereo that matches well with a newish interior? I have a black interior impreza and i'm gonna pass on the scooby mod. But i guess my choice is ghetto function or ghetto look... Clarion makes some stock looking double din units. Expensive: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_020CX609/Clarion-CX609.html Cheaper: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_020DUZ385/Clarion-DUZ385SAT.html They're also the only aftermarket stereos I have found where they designed the buttons to be usable with gloves on.
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Dec 23, 2009 06:59
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8ender posted:Clarion makes some stock looking double din units. nice fit, I didn't know a double din would just go in. i also just noticed this:  Click here for the full 730x819 image. I'd like to find matching colors somewhere (two-tone dark gray/gunmetal dash), but I might have to paint something if i want it that bad. edit: maybe I should have looked closer before asking, this one comes close with the colors and even has red lights http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Photos/Default.aspx?i=105KWGX700&search=double&ssi=0&tp=5684 Demie fucked around with this message at 07:45 on Dec 23, 2009 |
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Dec 23, 2009 07:29
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A little clutch help here too please. From time to time, when I am in 4th or 5th gear on the highway and accelerate to pass, the clutch will slip a bit. My bigger issue is a shudder in the drive line when starting from a stop. Would a worn clutch also cause this? I just want to get it to last through the winter and then when its riding season again, i will go back and "hopefully" wrx swap.
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Dec 24, 2009 17:41
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If the clutch is slipping as you accelerate from the stop, then yeah, that could cause your symptoms. Do you notice if your RPMs stay the same when you'r shuddering?slowspeedracer posted:i will go back and "hopefully" wrx swap.
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Dec 24, 2009 20:34
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slowspeedracer posted:A little clutch help here too please. From time to time, when I am in 4th or 5th gear on the highway and accelerate to pass, the clutch will slip a bit. If it's slipping on the highway I wouldn't count on it lasting much longer. Mine went from "slips when I overtake" to "completely gone" in about 500 miles. Though, my master cylinder was bad, so maybe that's not normal. Panoplied Platypus fucked around with this message at 20:47 on Dec 24, 2009 |
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Dec 24, 2009 20:45
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I went to swap the right headlight on my 2006 Impreza at a gas station, and was surprised to see that I had to remove the battery. Had to drive through a storm with one headlight. On my 2004 Outback, I didn't have to do that. Though, it's possible with small hands one might be able to get at the light. Since it was warm today I knocked it out with my pitiful tools...a crappy black and decker socket set, and my electronics pliers. I was equally surprised that all the manual had to say on the battery was "GO TO THE DEALER!!!" It's not that complicated...though I'm sure careless folks get zapped sometimes. I was a bit confused by the plastic bit on the top of the battery 'restrainer' until I realized you just remove it with a socket. What precautions do others take with the battery terminals? I remember when I removed a stereo I wore leather gloves...and when I installed my ham radio I was fine just using my socket and hand, being careful not to ground myself. Also, when I bought the Impreza I carefully checked over many parts...and forgot the tires.  They're worn unevenly, resulting in a pitiful 1/32 to 2/32 of tread left. My wife and I are full time students and I can't afford to replace them until late January. Lame. However, they've performed pretty well, as I take things slow in bad conditions. I'm looking forward to getting nice tires but not to spending $500-$600.Edit: How long does the stock clutch generally last? I learned to drive standard on my current clutch and memories of the first two weeks or so make me cringe.
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Dec 24, 2009 22:12
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Went out to get the Forester today to help my sister move Christmas gifts to her house and it wouldn't start. It'd crank and seem like it was close to starting, but wouldn't fire up. I finally cranked it for about 5-10 seconds and it eventually started up. Checked the alternator and it's charging and the battery measures over 14 volts with a meter. I don't think it's a battery/alternator problem anyway since it was cranking pretty strong. Drove over to my sister's house, turned it off, and restarted it without an issue. A few minutes later it started fine and I drove back here. It's an 05 Forester XT with 105K miles. Up to date on all services (almost due for an oil change though). It wasn't particularly cold (probably 38 and raining) and the last time I drove it was yesterday afternoon to move it farther back in the driveway. Any ideas? I'm in a good place to fix it this weekend if I can get parts, once I head back to Michigan I'll be hosed if it doesn't start some morning. It seems like on the colder mornings it starts a little harder than usual, but this is my first winter with the car so I'm not sure if that's normal or not.
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Dec 25, 2009 20:07
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LordOfThePants posted:It'd crank and seem like it was close to starting, but wouldn't fire up. Coolant temp sensor? When the car is started, the ecu reads the coolant temp and factors that into it's decision for how much fuel to supply at startup. If it's incorrectly reading that the engine is already warm, it may not deliver enough fuel at startup to start as easily as normal. I don't have the service manual handy but I think there's a test procedure and chart with temps and curves on it in there. You put the sensor and a thermometer in warm/cold water, and measure the resistance with a multimeter. the actual temp of the water tells you on the chart what the resistance should be. If it's very far off, replace the sensor. Or you could just replace it because they're not very expensive.
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Dec 26, 2009 00:22
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ab0z posted:Coolant temp sensor? When the car is started, the ecu reads the coolant temp and factors that into it's decision for how much fuel to supply at startup. If it's incorrectly reading that the engine is already warm, it may not deliver enough fuel at startup to start as easily as normal.
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Dec 26, 2009 02:08
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LordOfThePants posted:Would that throw a code?
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Dec 26, 2009 06:52
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Well, it's about 30 degrees this morning and it fired right up. Temp gauge was at it's lowest setting. I may try and track down a coolant temperature sensor today to replace it, they're fairly cheap but the job looks somewhat complicated. It did start kind of rough when it eventually started yesterday, but it ran great after a couple seconds. I imagine if it wasn't getting enough fuel to turn over that's what it'd act like.
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Dec 26, 2009 15:18
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kimbo305 posted:If the clutch is slipping as you accelerate from the stop, then yeah, that could cause your symptoms. Do you notice if your RPMs stay the same when you'r shuddering? WRX drive train in my 2.5 RS. It already has STI suspension and WRX brakes, now it just needs the the 100hp bump. Clutch is not slipping when starting from a stop, just when overtaking on the highway.
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Dec 26, 2009 19:16
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LordOfThePants posted:Well, it's about 30 degrees this morning and it fired right up. Temp gauge was at it's lowest setting. I may try and track down a coolant temperature sensor today to replace it, they're fairly cheap but the job looks somewhat complicated. I was having problems with my 04 WRX this year sometimes having similar troubles starting up. I replaced the fuel filter in the engine bay and so far the problem hasn't come back. If it's been regularly maintained then the fuel filter should have been replaced by now, but that's one thing to check to see if it has been replaced on schedule. I think the Forester would have an in-engine bay filter, I'm not positive though.
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Dec 26, 2009 19:31
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slowspeedracer posted:Clutch is not slipping when starting from a stop, just when overtaking on the highway. If the clutch isn't slipping, it can't be the source of any shuddering, since the rest of your driveline is connected as normal.
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Dec 26, 2009 20:48
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StimpyBoy posted:I was having problems with my 04 WRX this year sometimes having similar troubles starting up. I replaced the fuel filter in the engine bay and so far the problem hasn't come back. Starting in 05 they switched to the in-tank filter on the Foresters, which sucks because I have no idea how the previous owner maintained it. I guess it's not THAT bad of a job so if it persists (or gets worse) I'll replace it It looks like I'm going to have to pull the intake manifold to change the coolant temp sensor. There is a slight chance I won't have to, but I'm going to plan for it just in case. Should I plan on replacing the intake manifold gasket if I pull it off?
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Dec 26, 2009 22:14
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LordOfThePants posted:It looks like I'm going to have to pull the intake manifold to change the coolant temp sensor. There is a slight chance I won't have to, but I'm going to plan for it just in case. Should I plan on replacing the intake manifold gasket if I pull it off? If you don't buy one, you'll need one.
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Dec 26, 2009 22:47
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When does info for the next model year start to come out (if it's something that happens a similar time every yer)? I would hate to buy a MY10 before knowing what MY11 will have, especially since the Impreza seems overdue for a facelift.
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Dec 26, 2009 22:54
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So today was a maintenance day for the 02 WRX. Changed the fuel, air and oil filters and took it for a test drive. Definitely up on power, $50 well spent. Next was time to replace my tranny fluid. My 02 transmission had typical 5 speed symptoms: Clutch shudder? Oh you better believe there was clutch shudder. No 1st gear except at 3mph with the clutch in for at least 5 seconds? Of course. General shittyness? Yep. I drained the fluid and it looked to be in aged but ok shape. Wasn't completely clear, wasnt new smelling but wasn't original after 88 k on it either. Well I put in 4 quarts of Redline Lightweight Shcokproof. HOLY poo poo I CAN GO INTO 1st AT 20+MPH!!!!!! I took it for a test drive and it went in at 7mph. Then it went in at 10. Then it went in at 15! HOLY poo poo I CAN PUT IT IN FIRST AT 20mph! This is just after my first test drive but holy crap I cant believe it. I also dont feel and couldnt get the clutch to shudder at all!  That lightweight shockproof is like seafoam green black magic voodoo make my tranny work again poo poo. I still gotta do my rear diff tomorrow but holy poo poo I cant wait.
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Dec 27, 2009 00:18
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