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PaintVagrant posted:MWH + sepia! wait which sepia
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Dec 18, 2009 22:00
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| # ? Jun 3, 2024 08:14 |
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Gryphonne sepia's pretty good, if you don't have a batch of homemade ink wash lying around.
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Dec 18, 2009 22:08
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Yeah, whenever I say "sepia" I mean GW wash GRIFFIN SEPIA(tm)
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Dec 18, 2009 22:11
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Vallejo Sepia ink is pretty awesome too, mixed with a bit of black it goes on pretty much everything metal i do.
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Dec 18, 2009 22:26
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PaintVagrant posted:MWH + sepia! The redshirts at my local have taken to calling gryphon sepia "God Wash"
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Dec 18, 2009 22:59
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Bistromatic posted:Vallejo Sepia ink is pretty awesome too, mixed with a bit of black it goes on pretty much everything metal i do. I'll second this Valleju sepia + black inks really helped when I did my warmachine models.
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Dec 19, 2009 00:05
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Dec 19, 2009 03:09
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I must be some kind of tard. MWH?
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Dec 19, 2009 03:21
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menoth white highlight, pride of the p3 line
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Dec 19, 2009 03:22
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Ah, I heard their red is pretty crappy. How does the P3 line rate against Foundation? I'm not looking for an overall replacement so much as to supplement the shithouse colours that plague that line.
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Dec 19, 2009 03:30
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P3 colors tend to cover slightly better than their GW equivalents, although like most color ranges there are always a couple of colors made of pigments that dont cover well. Skorne red owns.
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Dec 19, 2009 04:05
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So what would you recommend from each range?
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Dec 19, 2009 04:10
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I use GW foundations, washes, metallics, and a few colors, like enchanted blue, scorched brown, elf flesh, sunburst yellow and blood red. Pretty much every other color I use is p3, theres just more color variety in p3: matte medium MWH skorne red bootstrap leather are all must-haves
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Dec 19, 2009 04:37
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Cheers, I'll check them out.
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Dec 19, 2009 04:42
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Np :] I really like p3, and they are cheaper than GW by a good margin, since most place discount it down into the 2.25-2.50 ish range
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Dec 19, 2009 05:09
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Those of you that use them, do you prefer the W&N Series 7 Miniature brushes or the W&N Series 7 regular brushes?
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Dec 19, 2009 05:54
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Ive only used the standards, but Im really curious about the miniature. It looks like the hair length is shorter.
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Dec 19, 2009 06:52
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Zarkov Cortez posted:This is awesome. What's it from?
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Dec 19, 2009 08:56
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Dr. Lenin As promised, a step by step of my current project: Scale-pattern shoulderpads for my Salamanders.  Here's everything that I used. Well, more than everything but you get the idea. On the left is the GF9 green stuff, and the center is the ProCreate two-part epoxy. While far, far superior (in my opinion) to green stuff, I promised a green stuff tutorial.  Aside from that is a set of GF9 sculpting tools, and a goblet of water. Some fancy poo poo right there. When working with green stuff, I find it best to keep the ratio at 50/50. You can get other effects by changing the ratio, extending or shortening curing time by going from 40/60 or 60/40, green and blue respectively.  This is the color you're looking for with 50/50. As you'll also notice, I've put water on the epoxy as well, enough to get a good coat over the whole thing.  To get the effect I want, I take several small pieces, roll them into balls and press them firmly into the surface of the shoulder pad. To relate, smooth surfaces can hold epoxy with little trouble if you work quick enough (about 10-15 minutes), but after that it might be needed to rough up the area you wish to apply to. As a reference as to how small that piece is...  ... It's loving tiny.  Several balls of various sizes pressed into the shoulder pad later, you end up with this. If you look close, you can see my fingerprints. Not to worry, as we'll clean that up in the next step.  Out of all the tools in the kit, I only use these two for this project. If you don't have access to sculpting tools (or simply don't want to buy some), your hobby knife will do just fine. Flatten out each ball by pressing the flat tool (or the flat end of your hobby knife), then use the bladed tool (or the blade of your hobby knife) to go back and create the trenches between the scales. Remember to dip your tools in water before you use them. If you flood the details of whatever you are sculpting, just blow on it a bit to clear it out. I wanted to have an angular sort of scale pattern, but no scales are hard-edged, so I wasn't concerned with making the edges straight. If you make a mistake, just flatten it out once more and try again.  In the end, this is what came of it. Fun stuff, easy to do, and good practice. Bonus pictures of other ones that I've already done!   Hope this helps you out, at least partly.
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Dec 19, 2009 11:46
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PaintVagrant posted:Ive only used the standards, but Im really curious about the miniature. It looks like the hair length is shorter. What are the sizes you recommend? I was looking at the 2, 1, 0, and 2/0.
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Dec 19, 2009 13:53
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Sole.Sushi posted:awesome God I love you for doing this. It gives me so many ideas for my next chaos creation.
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Dec 19, 2009 14:40
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 Argh my shaky hands.
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Dec 19, 2009 15:56
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Sole.Sushi posted:ProCreate two-part epoxy. While far, far superior (in my opinion) to green stuff Out of curiosity, why? Is it as smooth? Thanks for the tutorial by the way!
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Dec 19, 2009 16:20
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berzerkmonkey posted:It is. Supposedly, they are specifically made for the miniature painter. I figure you'd have better control over where the brush goes, but I would think that the shorter length would translate to a slightly stiffer brush. Definitely get a couple of 1's, they are the most useful because you can basecoat and do a lot of detail work with them. A 0 and a 000 should do your highlights and final highlight just right
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Dec 19, 2009 18:45
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For a sub of a sub forum this thread is moving fast. Never played Infinity but this guy from Spain has some great FREE paper models in the 25mm range. Used his ud12 chickenhawk as drop ship for Starship Troopers. http://www.toposolitario.es/workshop/ R.S. Gumby posted:Slightly racist flying towel heads Aetilus posted:Jizz covered men Sole.Sushi posted:Took a stab at sculpting some terradons.  Click here for the full 1200x559 image. First I used some crappy blue/white kneadatite. I got it almost decade ago. Do they even make that stuff anymore? Next I used milliput yellow/grey with better results. The last one I covered in masking tape to get better putty adhesion. I'll cut the extra off but I got this neat frayed look that would work with undead flying things. Found out the largest pterodactyl is call the Quetzalcoatlus, named after the Aztec flying serpent god. Did GW do their homework or random coincidence? Forgot about Dino Riders, would make for some easy conversions. 
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Dec 19, 2009 22:09
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LewdMonocle posted:For a sub of a sub forum this thread is moving fast. That's because all of the posters in the GBS thread who didn't come here anyway have now noticed this thread
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Dec 19, 2009 22:42
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Also, this thread is actually useful and because we dont talk about game systems and rules and stuff, it doesnt implode into sperg
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Dec 19, 2009 22:54
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PaintVagrant posted:Also, this thread is actually useful and because we dont talk about game systems and rules and stuff, it doesnt implode into sperg Well actually I think you'll find that that's the incorrect use of sepia wash and you've totally muffed up that undercoat  
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Dec 19, 2009 22:59
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I know PV does his gold as Mithril Sepia Sepia but I was wondering other ways. Usually I would do it burnished gold then wash it with some sepia but I think I saw a recipe that was scorched brown-gold-mithril+gold highlights. Does anyone know what I'm talking about? What other good ways are there?
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Dec 19, 2009 23:02
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crime fighting hog posted:I know PV does his gold as Mithril Sepia Sepia but I was wondering other ways. Usually I would do it burnished gold then wash it with some sepia but I think I saw a recipe that was I've heard of scorched brown being used as a base for gold before, I've done it once or twice myself, the only thing I could say is that it helps coverage a bit from what I remember.
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Dec 19, 2009 23:11
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So, I paint up my assassin.   C and C welcome
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Dec 19, 2009 23:48
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That ork speed-painting scheme that was posted earlier in the thread works like an absolute charm. I'm currently through 18 Bad Moonz and I have 22 (and 2 Nobz) on deck. It's odd how much fun it is to blast through these figures! I still need to go back and do eyes and teeth and a bit of detail, but they look rather good for little time invested. I've told myself: 100 boyz and I can buy a Stompa.  Click here for the full 1024x768 image. Da Boyz so far.  Click here for the full 1024x768 image. Da Boyz on deck.  Click here for the full 1024x768 image. Space Sharks Tactical that I need to get back to highlighting (but orks are so fun...)
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Dec 20, 2009 04:30
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overthefalls posted:I've told myself: 100 boyz and I can buy a Stompa. Nooo, get this instead: http://www.forgeworld.co.uk/megadread.htm 
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Dec 20, 2009 04:33
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CyberLord XP posted:God I love you for doing this. It gives me so many ideas for my next chaos creation. No problem. If you guys want to see different step-by-steps with photos of different things, feel free to ask, and I'll see if I can do something that doesn't suck. An observer posted:Out of curiosity, why? Is it as smooth? Thanks for the tutorial by the way! I picked it up because it came highly recommended from other forum members, and I wasn't disappointed. Smoother than green stuff, easier to see detail on, and to make it even better, getting different ratios of resin and hardener can produce GW-kind green stuff, a middle range if you do equal parts, or brown stuff. A bad-rear end product. It's made by a company called Kraftmark, and while you can pick it up from the CMON store, it's a bit cheaper to order it direct from the company's website. LewdMonocle posted:Can we sticky this or something? This needs to be saved. gently caress dude maybe you should start a From the Warp blog. A what-now blog?  Also, those armatures are looking pretty sweet so far. Sole.Sushi fucked around with this message at 06:15 on Dec 20, 2009 |
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Dec 20, 2009 06:09
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Anyone have any really good Ork/CSM painting tutorials they recommend?
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Dec 20, 2009 06:47
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LewdMonocle posted:Your Bretonnian army makes my dick hard.  Aranan posted:Nooo, get this instead: agree
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Dec 20, 2009 06:49
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Tervigon brainstorming! For those of you who aren't familiar with the upcoming Tyranid codex, a tervigon is a heavily-armored, monstrous Synapse creature (HQ or Troops) with an array of psychic powers that constantly gives birth to gaunts over the course of the battle (3D6 gaunts a turn, even if locked in close combat, runs out on doubles or triples). Of course, there is no model for this monstrosity. The closest is Hydra's "Swarm Tyrant" which lacks the spike launchers of the tervigon and also lacks any notable synaptic features (crests or spikes on the head, mainly).   Also, his design is HUGE. There's no way that thing could fit in a drop pod, at least, the kind I'm planning to make for the rest of my army. Anyway, begin brainstorming.  At first, I really wanted to stay away from Hydra's design. It takes up too much space and the birthing process isn't really the center stage. I tried to put the tervigon in a position that could allow the gaunts to either come out through the thorax in front and be in clear sight, or at least one that is less hidden.  Then, I started trying to find ways to get the gaunts to come out the back. Then, it hit me when my eyes lit upon my armorcast pile across the room. Malefactor. So, if I place the tervigon on all fours and ridge the back armor, it gives me a less "defenseless" way of portraying the gaunts being birthed out the back. Plus, this means I can use the center pair of arms to grasp the clutch-- the front arms have armor (like the current tyrant guard models) with spike launchers on them (like the malefactor's spike launchers).  I also like the idea of rhino hooves for the back feet. I have to iron out the kinks, first. Suggestions and ideas welcome.
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Dec 20, 2009 09:12
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Not sure about suggestions, but those ideas are looking awesome BL.
No Pun Intended fucked around with this message at 10:25 on Dec 20, 2009 |
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Dec 20, 2009 10:23
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What you have right now is sort of like a dorsal version of a marsupial pouch, which is pretty cool. But, the animal world is full of crazy things, and perhaps some inspiration for you. Some kinds of fish do the mouth-breeding thing: they hold the eggs inside their maws, and even after they hatch, they keep them inside for most of the time until they are ready to fend for themselves. If you like that idea, perhaps you could have the beast "vomit" forth gaunts. It could store eggs in a specialized stomach/ovipositor within the back under a really dense carapace, and when it's ready, it sends out a chemical signal to the eggs to cause a random number (3d6 of them) to awaken, hatch, and regurgitate in rapid succession. The hatched eggs would then regenerate within the stomach at a rapid pace, replacing those lost in minutes or seconds. From a fluff standpoint, it sounds cool. From a modeling standpoint, it gives you an excuse to make something not terribly huge that can reasonably put out 3d6 gaunts every turn, and it should be easy to model a gaunt being vomited forth to make the mechanic center-stage. Certain kinds of spiders carry their eggs on their backs when they move about. Similar to what you have already, the idea is to have the gaunts ride on the back of the beast in a dormant fetal state, where they act like back armor. When the Tervigon makes 3d6 of them, they can simply "shingle" off, awakening and sliding from the back. Like shark's teeth, new gaunts could be grown underneath the older ones, coming to the front in rapid succession when needed. Again, I think the idea is pretty cool, and to model, you'd just need some gaunts, a carnifex, some bits and green stuff. It would also be easy to model fresh gaunts awakening and peeling off the back, exposing some dormant gaunts underneath. The whole thing might be a little big in the end, but it would likely be the easiest to convert.
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Dec 20, 2009 10:50
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I also like your designs. Another disgusting real life animal is the pipa toad, which keeps its developing young in individual pockets on its back, until they emerge when big enough: http://tinyurl.com/2rzo53 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surinam_toad
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Dec 20, 2009 13:11
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