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Quick question: Where the gently caress is the fuel filter on my 98 4.0 XJ?
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Dec 21, 2009 05:50
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A quick check reveals its part of the pump assembly and according to the maintenance schedule it does not need to be replaced. While I know you have a 98, the closest FSM I have is for a 99 so.. From the 1999 FSM for the Cherokee: The combination Fuel Filter/Fuel Pressure Regulator is located on the fuel pump module. The fuel pump module is located on top of fuel tank. The filter/regulator may be removed without removing fuel pump module although fuel tank must be removed. Veeb0rg fucked around with this message at 06:16 on Dec 21, 2009 |
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Dec 21, 2009 06:04
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When it's almost at 1/4 level, it cuts fuel during hard acceleration or semi-sharp turning. Is this a normal thing with XJs? I know our cars have some finnicky things that we learn to love, is this one of them?
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Dec 21, 2009 12:05
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WildFoxMedia posted:The guy at the dealership in Reno for the last Jeep I linked to said he will be in Sacramento during the week and wanted to know if I wanted to buy the car I can meet him there and he can bring the paperwork and do the deal. He said he doesn't think the Jeep will last til next weekend, and if the last deal was any indication, it wont, and ill be screwed all over again. My first reaction would be....Walk away.... If a used car salesman is willing to do something like that, he ids desperate and guaran-drat-teed there is something hosed up about the Jeep. Remember.... Used car salesmen are what you get when Meter Maids and Repo men get drunk and have unprotected sex.
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Dec 21, 2009 15:22
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Dividend Special posted:When it's almost at 1/4 level, it cuts fuel during hard acceleration or semi-sharp turning. Is this a normal thing with XJs? I know our cars have some finnicky things that we learn to love, is this one of them? This is not normal - though I have no idea what's going on. The only normal issues I've encountered with the 4.0s is cracked exhaust manifolds and leaky rear main seals.
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Dec 21, 2009 17:37
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Dividend Special posted:When it's almost at 1/4 level, it cuts fuel during hard acceleration or semi-sharp turning. Is this a normal thing with XJs? I know our cars have some finnicky things that we learn to love, is this one of them? Bet you have a hole or crack at or near the very bottom of the pump pickup tube. Fuel sloshes around, pump sucks in air through the hole, aerates the fuel supply, and basically gives you temporary vapor lock until the fuel in the tank settles down again and the hole is submerged.
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Dec 21, 2009 18:54
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DILLIGAF posted:My first reaction would be....Walk away.... I ran an AutoCheck for what its worth - It came out clean, no issues, etc. Love for you guys to chime in ASAP if possible - We're talkin about meeting tomorrow, so sooner the better. Edit: Whether its bullshit or not, he says his parents live just outside of Sac and his wife's parents live in Sac and they are visiting for xmas which is why he offered to meet me. nullfox fucked around with this message at 23:42 on Dec 21, 2009 |
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Dec 21, 2009 21:15
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I've got a '95 ZJ Limited. It's got a crappy 3" Skyjacker lift plus 2" spacers. I have 33x12.5-15 Destination MT tires. The rears almost look new, but the fronts are VERY worn and in a weird pattern. I was thinking I should rotate them, but not really sure how to go about doing that. I have a 2.5 ton floor jack and 6 jackstands. Will I be able to pull this off somehow or should I just take it somewhere? Also, what PSI should I run in the tires for street use? Tirerack shows 35psi as max for this size tire. All the other sizes are 50-80psi.
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Dec 22, 2009 00:12
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Glynis27 posted:I've got a '95 ZJ Limited. It's got a crappy 3" Skyjacker lift plus 2" spacers. I have 33x12.5-15 Destination MT tires. The rears almost look new, but the fronts are VERY worn and in a weird pattern. I was thinking I should rotate them, but not really sure how to go about doing that. I have a 2.5 ton floor jack and 6 jackstands. Will I be able to pull this off somehow or should I just take it somewhere? Also, what PSI should I run in the tires for street use? Tirerack shows 35psi as max for this size tire. All the other sizes are 50-80psi. Well jack that bitch up, place stands under vehicle. If you can get all 4 in the air at once your golden!
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Dec 22, 2009 01:45
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Doctor Zero posted:May I ask how much it cost you? Is your WJ a 4x4? I may end up needing a rear-end rebuild eventually. I think my quadra track is going out, but it's been pretty quiet lately, so I've got my fingers crossed. Yeah its the quadratrac II (so really its AWD but whatever its got low range which locks the centre diff). I picked it up today (took them a while for the rebuild parts for the front axle to come in). In total I ended up paying about $700 per axle. Thats parts, labor and tax.
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Dec 22, 2009 02:14
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ExtremeODD posted:Well jack that bitch up, place stands under vehicle. If you can get all 4 in the air at once your golden! Thing is, I don't think my jack and stands are even tall enough to reach the undercarriage. I have some 4x4 and 6x6 chunks of wood. Can I lift at the dif or is that bad? I'll take a better look at it tomorrow. 
Glynis27 fucked around with this message at 03:03 on Dec 22, 2009 |
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Dec 22, 2009 02:43
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GanjamonII posted:Yeah its the quadratrac II (so really its AWD but whatever its got low range which locks the centre diff). Yeah, that's about what I figured. Well, I guess I'll just sprinkle it with holy water and hope. Thanks!
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Dec 22, 2009 02:53
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So, do all 4x4 WJs use Quadra-Trac or was it simply an additional option? It looks like the Grand Cherokee im picking up tomorrow is a Quadra-Trac judging by the 3 position transfer-case shifter. Is Quadra-Trac well liked? Piece of poo poo? Any special Quadra-Trac related maintenance that needs to be done for a GC with 61k on the clock?
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Dec 22, 2009 09:16
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Glynis27 posted:Thing is, I don't think my jack and stands are even tall enough to reach the undercarriage. I have some 4x4 and 6x6 chunks of wood. Can I lift at the dif or is that bad? I'll take a better look at it tomorrow. My father has the same tires and size on his JK Rubicon. They're a badass tire... Perhaps the best in that size that can do everything. He runs them @ 30psi on the road, 15psi on the trail, and 6psi for deep snow wheeling.
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Dec 22, 2009 12:54
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WildFoxMedia posted:So, do all 4x4 WJs use Quadra-Trac or was it simply an additional option? Isn't that the NV/NP247? The NP/NV (which name are they using now, gently caress) family of transfer cases used in all jeeps are very well built and will outlast the car if taken care of properly. Just make sure you change that loving fluid once you get it. Oh and check the drive chain to see if it's stretched. If it is, then it will rub against the case and a major mechanical failure WILL occur. Changing it is relatively easy. Don't let that scare you though, at 60k that case is just getting started.
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Dec 22, 2009 14:55
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Glynis27 posted:Thing is, I don't think my jack and stands are even tall enough to reach the undercarriage. I have some 4x4 and 6x6 chunks of wood. Can I lift at the dif or is that bad? I'll take a better look at it tomorrow. Use the shock mounting bracket part of your diffs as jack points for more support.
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Dec 22, 2009 15:00
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jonathan posted:My father has the same tires and size on his JK Rubicon. They're a badass tire... Perhaps the best in that size that can do everything. He runs them @ 30psi on the road, 15psi on the trail, and 6psi for deep snow wheeling. I currently have them at 25psi for road use. I'll bring that up to 30 and see how it goes. I use 15 on the trail and 8 for deep snow and the have worked well. It's pretty amazing how they hold their shape with so little air. Had a nail in one once and it drained over night. Luckily I checked the pressure, they looked normal to my eyes. Dividend Special posted:Use the shock mounting bracket part of your diffs as jack points for more support. I'll go out and give that a try now. Thanks. Hopefully I won't drop a tire on myself.
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Dec 22, 2009 15:10
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Question about lifting my XJ. It's a '98 that has problems, and a reconstructed title. I don't feel like dropping $1500 on it just to get around 4" and 33s, considering that would be half of the realistic sale value. I want a budget lift, but not just spacers. What would be the ideal way to go? It's stock now and with light-tread A/T tires it still goes everywhere I've taken it and hasn't gotten stuck. I'd like to spend around $300 and move up to at least 33s, maybe 35s.
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Dec 22, 2009 15:30
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Lots of fender trimming. The rear is easy enough with an S-10 or Dakota leaf pack and some longer shackles but you'll have to even it out in the front somehow. Coils from a Grand Cherokee will net 1"-2" of lift depending on their condition. 4" is where you start getting into vibe issues with the driveshaft but can be alleviated with a hack-and-tap slip yoke eliminator or just a simple transfer case drop. You will run into a lot of problems with 35's unless the u-joints, axle shafts, ring & pinion/gearing, brakes and steering are also upgraded. They are an entirely different animal from 33's when it comes to wear and tear on a Jeep's stock components.
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Dec 22, 2009 16:33
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Philip J Fry posted:Lots of fender trimming. The rear is easy enough with an S-10 or Dakota leaf pack and some longer shackles but you'll have to even it out in the front somehow. Coils from a Grand Cherokee will net 1"-2" of lift depending on their condition. Yeah, I'll need to rethink the tire size. How wide can I go before rubbing starts to be an issue? How does 3" and 33x10.50 sound? Tell me more about using S-10 or Dakota leaf packs. What sort of modification am I looking at? Other than different shackles, is it basically bolt in? Would I have to extend brake lines?
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Dec 22, 2009 16:46
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Dividend Special posted:Yeah, I'll need to rethink the tire size. How wide can I go before rubbing starts to be an issue? The s10 or dakota leaf springs get merged into your Cherokee leafs. It's commonly known as a "bastard pack". Like Philip J Fry said. Bastard pack out back. Grand Cherokee coils up front. Cheap budget boost for a Cherokee. Slow is Fast fucked around with this message at 19:20 on Dec 22, 2009 |
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Dec 22, 2009 19:06
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Glynis27 posted:I currently have them at 25psi for road use. I'll bring that up to 30 and see how it goes. I use 15 on the trail and 8 for deep snow and the have worked well. It's pretty amazing how they hold their shape with so little air. Had a nail in one once and it drained over night. Luckily I checked the pressure, they looked normal to my eyes. Well that was easy. Took me less time than putting the winter tires/wheels on my mom's Protege. Sometimes I just psych myself out.
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Dec 22, 2009 19:22
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It's a direct bolt in because you still retain your main leaf, but if it's sagged out, it's going to ride horribly. Basically you just pull the pack and mix-n-match with whatever leafs you desire and bolt it back in. If you want to use the main leaf from your donor pack (which is usually good for 2"-3" on its own), you'll have to cut the wraps off at the ends. U-bolt eliminators are another way to go, but that involves cutting off the stock spring perches and welding new ones on. Probably a bit more hassle and cost than it's worth for your project. As far as brake lines, you can snag some from a YJ as they are 3" longer. I'm not entirely sure about the width/rubbing as I'm still new to the Cherokee (still waiting to get laid off so I can do my 7.5" Y-link w/35's). 10.50's should be fine as I just barely rubbed at full lock with the knobby sidewall lugs on BFG KM 12.50's on my old YJ, but I had 4.25" backspacing on the rims if I recall. There's always wheel spacers for that, too, just don't stick out too far past your flares unless your state isn't anal-retentive like mine.
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Dec 23, 2009 04:48
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I can has Jeep! Went to Sacramento, met the guy and his wife(who was filling out family xmas cards). Took it for a test drive, looked it over, asked some questions and went about signing the papers. It's a 2004 GC V8 4x4 with 61k miles - If anyone has an interest in seeing yet another cherokee, ill snap some pictures tomorrow.
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Dec 23, 2009 07:29
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WildFoxMedia posted:I can has Jeep! Always room for more pics. What did you do with your trade?
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Dec 23, 2009 15:42
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I'll take some pictures when I get home from work today. The salesman and his wife drove the truck back home to Reno. It's like riding on air compared to my truck which made every little bump in the road knock your filling loose. Im also like a kid in a candy store playing with all of the electronics and goodies. One of the things im trying to figure out is whether or not it has the power adjustable pedals, it would be nice to push them back as far as they go since im somewhat tall (6'2").
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Dec 23, 2009 18:24
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WildFoxMedia posted:I'll take some pictures when I get home from work today. If there's a switch immediately to the right of the steering column, then it does. Otherwise, not. EDIT: I marked it in yellow. 
Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 18:45 on Dec 23, 2009 |
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Dec 23, 2009 18:41
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Woot has a Bushnell GPS today that apparently has topography maps. Has anyone used something like that? Seems useful.
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Dec 23, 2009 23:00
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:Woot has a Bushnell GPS today that apparently has topography maps. Has anyone used something like that? Seems useful. I know I love the topo maps on google when trail-planning. It would probably rock to have that ability in the midst of the bush. in the same vein, I've seen a ton of "Hardcore" offroad rigs built with a lowrance GPS mounted in-dash. They must have at least one good reason to use 'em. NB: This style, not the hand-held type
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Dec 24, 2009 00:06
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Gavitron posted:I know I love the topo maps on google when trail-planning. It would probably rock to have that ability in the midst of the bush. Probably because just like Lowrance's marine stuff, you can piss on it and run over it and it'll still work.
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Dec 24, 2009 00:33
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So my Grand Cherokee doesnt have the power adjust pedals. Im hoping its me just getting used to sitting in a different position, but my right (gas/brake) knee feels sore from driving. Im 6'2" and ive heard and even know a couple people that own grand cherokees and are about my height and dont have an issue. I wish I could have a couple more inches between my seat and the pedals - is there anything I can do?
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Dec 24, 2009 01:16
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WildFoxMedia posted:So my Grand Cherokee doesnt have the power adjust pedals. Im hoping its me just getting used to sitting in a different position, but my right (gas/brake) knee feels sore from driving. Im 6'2" and ive heard and even know a couple people that own grand cherokees and are about my height and dont have an issue. You get used to it. I'm the same height as you and, yeah, I could use another inch or two, it's not horrible. If it makes you feel better, the adjustable pedals don't help with moving farther away, just closer. So it wouldn't have mattered anyway.
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Dec 24, 2009 01:23
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Gavitron posted:I know I love the topo maps on google when trail-planning. It would probably rock to have that ability in the midst of the bush. Google has topography maps? Holy poo poo! Maybe I'll just get an iPhone. After reading reviews it seems like this unit is kinda garbage, and you have to pay per download for pictures.
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Dec 24, 2009 02:26
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Doctor Zero posted:You get used to it. I'm the same height as you and, yeah, I could use another inch or two, it's not horrible. Thanks for the re-assurance. Coming from my F-150 the ride, the posture and way you sit are all completely different and all require some getting used to. I was starting to get a little worried that I made a huge mistake.
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Dec 24, 2009 02:28
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WildFoxMedia posted:Thanks for the re-assurance. If you have the 8-way power seats you could spend a few weeks playing with various positions until you find one you like. The pedals on Grand Cherokees aren't in the same relative place as most other cars. The pedals are shifted to the left a bit.
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Dec 24, 2009 04:37
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Ive been loving with the power seats on my commute and putting them into memory. I feel like im getting about as close as I can, but its still a little too cramped for my liking. Ive noticed that I had to push the lumbar support out to its extreme to save myself from some lower back soreness. Im thinking its just getting used to, for now, ill just stop complaining to you fine folks.
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Dec 24, 2009 06:31
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I had a blast delivery driving in the 14 or so inches of snow this weekend in my YJ. I even got to use 4 low to tow out a Civic beached on a snow drift. Going in and out of 4wd so much made me realize that I'm completely ignorant of how the 4wd system works in my '95 YJ, and it's embarrassing. It's always been a little reluctant to go from 4hi back to 2 (idiot light stays on and it is definitely actually staying in 4wd). For some reason it seemed to help to shift into 2wd and then do a double-clutch shift, fully engaging the clutch in neutral between gears. Sometimes that doesn't even work, and I have to mess around with putting the transfer case into neutral and back up to 2wd a couple of times. I'm pretty sure from reading online that the front axle disengages via vacuum. I'm assuming my problem lies therein, but how's the idiot light actually know that the front axle's still engaged? It doesn't make too much sense to me why it gets stuck in 4wd and can't just disengage when stopped, but then happily does so if I get moving and put my transmission in neutral. Is the front driveshaft still powered when the t-case is in 2wd, just with the axle disconnected? Does the vacuum disconnect the hubs or something magical of which I am ignorant in the pumpkin?
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Dec 24, 2009 07:14
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ManicJason posted:Is the front driveshaft still powered when the t-case is in 2wd, just with the axle disconnected? Does the vacuum disconnect the hubs or something magical of which I am ignorant in the pumpkin? With the truck not wanting to go back to 2wd, this is really common - with the slight difference in axle rotational speeds going around corners etc, the difference in propshaft rotation front and rear has to be resisted by the t-case keeping them locked firmly together in 4wd mode. When you put it back in 2wd, if the mechanism has this "wind up" jamming everything together, it really won't want to come apart. It happens in most part-time 4wd systems, and normally if you just back off the throttle as you shift the t-case, it'll make it a bit smoother as the torque transferrals through the drivetrain change. If it's really stuck together, stopping and going into reverse for a few feet as you shift should do it. You can get a similar thing with the centre diff locks on permanent 4wd systems. It's nothing much to worry about, but a good demonstration of why you shouldn't use 4wd on high-grip surfaces, where you never get wheelspin to relieve the built-up internal loads.
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Dec 24, 2009 13:03
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fordham posted:The pedals on Grand Cherokees aren't in the same relative place as most other cars. The pedals are shifted to the left a bit. I always wondered about that, the drivers seat in mine is worn like all of the drivers have sat twisted slightly to the left.
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Dec 24, 2009 13:07
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sanchez posted:I always wondered about that, the drivers seat in mine is worn like all of the drivers have sat twisted slightly to the left. I freaking hate this about my Jeep - the Wrangler is the same way. There's a huge bulge in the left side of the transmission tunnel, shifting everything over to the left. It's such a relief every time I drive my Explorer and can point my feet straight forward
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Dec 24, 2009 16:41
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