|
InitialDave posted:great post I'll follow that up with this dumb question, the marks on my front hubs have warn off, which way do I turn them to lock and how do I know they're locked?
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2009 21:28
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 11, 2024 11:53 |
|
|
Here's a good pic of the front engagement system. There's a 2-prong fork that fits on the gray collar which is [craptacularly] vacuum-actuated to slip the collar over both shafts. You can get a posi-lok kit which uses a simple cable instead that you just use from inside the cab. This will also allow you to be in a 2LO setting if you want, with just the rear engaged allowing you to steer with no component strain in the front. 
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2009 21:49
|
|
|
giundy posted:I'll follow that up with this dumb question, the marks on my front hubs have warn off, which way do I turn them to lock and how do I know they're locked? Simplest way to be absolutely sure is jack up a wheel with the truck in 4wd, and try to turn it. If you can, it's free, if you can't, it's locked.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2009 22:35
|
|
|
Blizzard warning just posted for South Dakota! Will be playing out in the local streets tonight! Should be a hoot. 16 inches of snow predicted and 45MPH winds. 10 foot drifts in the forecast in rural areas too. Gonna stay in town I think.  I have my Sony DV cam recording time-lapse out my balcony window for the next 72 hours. Should be interesting as the storm rolls in. My 92 XJ. Gonna be a blast. We haven't had snow like this since 1968 I guess. WHEE! Here it is again with it's awesome "rolled-on" $50 paint job. 
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2009 23:51
|
|
|
^^^ tell us how to do that for $50
|
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2009 02:42
|
|
|
Dividend Special posted:^^^ Yes. I've had 2 more potential Commanche's pop up in the area and either one will need paint.
|
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2009 05:53
|
|
|
Dividend Special posted:^^^ Alrighty.. Start with a $200 1992 Jeep Cherokee Sport off of Craigslist....  Pull into garage too see how bad the rust is. Oh shiiiii  Completely rebuild inner tubs, outer skin and "trunk" area with fresh 20 GA steel. Grind and topcoat with 'glass and sand sand sand.. Repeat on other side..  Once all the rust is removed and all the decals and as much trim as you can get off it are out of they way, proceed to mask off anything you don't want painted. Sanding AHOY! Need to bust through the factory peeling clearcoat so that the new paint will stick to the original finish..  Now to the supplies. 3 quarts of Valspar Anti-Rust Industrial Alkyd Enamel. OSHA Safety Yellow. 1 Gallon of hardcore mineral spirits (NOT the low odor), a 12 pack of 4 inch high-density rollers with pan. 1 Gallon can to mix the paint in and 1 more can to thin it with.  Oh NOO! What have I done!! Thin the paint till it's like milk. Slowly roll on with the roller till the vehicles covered. Let dry (2 hours for me in the garage in the winter) and coat again.  Blargh...  Here is the 7th coat. I wet sanded with 600 and 800 every other coat.  Rollin in action..  I cant remember what coat this was. I believe 10 or 11? It's amazingly smooth and very shiny. Awesome finish in person.  Finally done with 18 coats, final 1500/2000 wet sand. Awaiting the Herculiner on the new 2x6 1/4 steel rockers and lower doors.  Here is a shot of the whole thing after I Herculined the doors and rockers.. I hand rubbed the paint out with the red rubbing compound TWICE all around and then waxed with a bottle of OLD Turtle Wax Liquid. You know, the sand and diesel crap. I tried my TechWax2000 but the Valspar is waaaaay to tough even when it was still "green". Since baking in the South Dakota summer sun last summer, the paint has cured to a diamond like substance that even tree branches on trails cannot touch.  Here is how she sits today except that I have since painted my rims gloss black..  Here is my XJ the day I bought it..  NOTES: If you are changing colors like I did, you need to use little foam brushes and paint the door sills and such with straight paint. I cheated and used the Valspar Safety Yellow spray paint for under the rear bumper and under the tail lights. After you are done with all the metalwork, use a high zinc primer and paint all the metalwork underneath and inside. You then need to use rubberized undercoating on everything after you are done painting the body. This gives the metalwork paint time to cure underneath and such. I went through 6 cans of MarHyde Rubberized Undercoating from Wal-Mart. Menards, Lowes and Home Depot will stare at you funny when you ask for 1500 to 2000 grit wet or dry sandpaper. I guess nobody does extreme finishing like my dad with shellac and needs 2000 grit between coats. Go to the nearest Hardware store and get the 3M paper. Walmart has the high grit stuff back in the automotive area by the touch up paint. The 600 grit "sponge backed" thin sanding pads seem to work great for the later coats. Start with 800 around coat 9 or so. Get a spray bottle from the dollar store and a large bucket. Use warm water and rinse constantly while sanding. Your skin WILL take on the color of the paint. Looked like I had liver problems for a month afterwords. The dry paint flecks stain your skin. :p The residue from wet sanding can be hosed off concrete easily. Dont worry about that. Now, the liquid paint will never come off the floor. BONUS: Here is my '84 XJ that I got for free a few years ago from a friend.  I rolled on the finish too, BUT made my own olive drab or "lusterless" finish with Rustoleum Enamels. Decided to pin the doors for easy removal for those summer night cruises. Sold it because having three XJs is a bit much. I miss it sometimes. I see it pop up on Craigslist once in a while, but either I dont have the cash for it at the time or I have other projects. sigh    Slack3r fucked around with this message at 07:52 on Dec 25, 2009 |
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2009 07:43
|
|
|
I have a 1987 jeep Comanche, 4.0, 5 speed 4x4, absolutely base model. I recently replaced both the starter and the battery, and then it just didn't start one day. After I had already driven it that day. At first I thought that it was a weird issue with the wiring for the amplifier I had put in that day, but after I removed all that, it still didn't start. All my lights work, and my over cab lights work, those get are connected to the fuseblock via the open space labeled IGN. My voltmeter in the truck reads at the halfway mark between "9" and "14" (newer style gauge) when I try to start it, and the fuel pump doesn't prime. And yea, that's about it. I don't even know where to start with diagnosing it. Could someone please help? Edit- Forgot to say it doesn't turn the starter at all. Edit number 2- I lied about the fuel pump, it primes. MoraleBuddy fucked around with this message at 20:39 on Dec 26, 2009 |
|
#
?
Dec 26, 2009 20:06
|
|
|
LouReed posted:Edit- Forgot to say it doesn't turn the starter at all. Bad starter?
|
|
#
?
Dec 26, 2009 21:40
|
|
|
Anybody know where I can get a 4.0L engine head? I can find rebuilt engines, but they usually go for $1300. I just need the head so as to replace the one on my 4.2L for better mileage/power. Am I in better luck just trying to find a broken down XJ? Also if I get the head from a fuel injected 4.0L, will I have to adapt a fuel injection system or can I just keep the carbureted system? Found two heads: '87-'90 and '91-'99. Which should I get? is one better than the other in some way and can both still be carbureted? I don't want to change my free Weber kit 
Steiler Drep fucked around with this message at 02:49 on Dec 27, 2009 |
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2009 02:45
|
|
|
fordham posted:Bad starter? Bad starter relay. The guys over at Comanche Club pointed me that way, and it started right up!
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2009 20:52
|
|
|
Slack3r posted:Alrighty.. This is awesome. Unfortunately, I am going to sell my '98 XJ, which brings me to my next question in this thread: How much should I sell it for? It runs great, it's the 4.0 automatic with 118k miles on the odo. 1998, blue, only problem is it has some uniframe damage that doesn't really affect anything other than it having a reconstructed title. edit: just fixed the heat and my god, i can't believe i've been driving around without heat or cruise control for a loving year when the fix was as simple as duct taping a broken vacuum hose. Dividend Special fucked around with this message at 04:28 on Dec 28, 2009 |
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2009 03:05
|
|
|
Slack3r posted:Alrighty.. Nice. I'm hoping to do the same thing to my old Toyota this summer. Paint nub question: what are you sanding in between coats? Also, more dispatches from the past: US civilians buy their first Jeeps
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2009 19:52
|
|
|
Nebakenezzer posted:Nice. I'm hoping to do the same thing to my old Toyota this summer. Paint nub question: what are you sanding in between coats? I am using 600 and 800 grit wet or dry sandpaper dunked in a bucket of warm water. Then I sanded the "bumpy" layer off the fresh dried paint all around. Just barely breaking the top finish to smooth any imperfections away. Then towel dry and apply another coat with the roller. Repeat many times..
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2009 01:29
|
|
|
1996 XJ Yesterday I opened the driver's door to get out of my Jeep, and an insane gust of wind came over the hill I was on and tore the door right out of my hand, swung it immediately to the full open point, and probably a little beyond. The door won't close properly now. I mean, it will close and latch if you give it some stank, but it's clearly misaligned. It's also a struggle to open. Am I going to have to get it re-hinged or something? This is a $1900 truck with 156k on it so I don't want to spend much money I found this online and will try it but does it look like a feasible fix? http://en.allexperts.com/q/Auto-body-repair-2036/Eclipse-Car-Door.htm This blows
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2009 13:49
|
|
|
Has anyone done an auto to manual transmission swap? I know ya'll are gonna bitch and say "wah just buy a manual one" but what if I love my jeep too much to part with it? It's been in the family for a really long time and I don't quite see it leaving just yet. Thought about selling it, but...no.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2009 16:47
|
|
|
Wamsutta posted:1996 XJ That might work. First you need to figure out what part is bent/broken. There is a piece attached to the body of the Jeep itself which holds the door pin. If that piece is broken, a quick trip to the junk yard will set you straight. If it's the door itself you could get lucky with a ball peen hammer or a metal punch to straighten it out. My buddy removed the driver's door from his 95 XJ, and the whole assembly seems pretty simple. For some reason, it's different on the passenger side, though. Anyway, I have my own question for you guys... is there some way a clogged fuel filter could prevent my Jeep from starting at all? It won't start right now, and I just got done moving so I have to get it to my new place by the 1st. I have already determined that it has spark and that the distributor is working just fine, and when I try to start it with the gas pedal all the way down (I didn't think this would make a difference on a fuel injected 91 YJ 4.0), it gets very close to starting... which is what makes me suspect the fuel filter? Assuming this thing has never been replaced, is the stock fuel filter something where I can open it up and clean it for a temporary, get-me-one-mile-home fix?
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2009 18:42
|
|
|
Clamwacker posted:Anyway, I have my own question for you guys... is there some way a clogged fuel filter could prevent my Jeep from starting at all? It won't start right now, and I just got done moving so I have to get it to my new place by the 1st. I have already determined that it has spark and that the distributor is working just fine, and when I try to start it with the gas pedal all the way down (I didn't think this would make a difference on a fuel injected 91 YJ 4.0), it gets very close to starting... which is what makes me suspect the fuel filter? Could be a fuel pump. If it kicks and bucks but doesn't start it's likely the pump. Also check the relay. If you get the pump replaced I'm sure they do the filter too.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2009 19:10
|
|
|
You should be able to hear the fuel pump pressurize when you turn the key to ON. If you don't, it's dead. Then when you replace it, make sure you have the leads hooked up right. When I did an OEM replacement for my YJ, the new pump's terminals were reversed from that of the original design.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2009 19:40
|
|
|
To check if you're getting fuel: there is a plastic cap on the fuel rail before going into the injectors. After you turn the key and the system pressurizes, turn the key off and unscrew the cap. Push on the valve with a screwdriver, a small squirt of fuel should come out. Fuel filters are cheap and can be had for $10 at any parts store, even WalMart. With a wrench set you should be able to change it in about 10 minutes, its just forward of the fuel tank.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2009 19:57
|
|
|
Any of you WJ owners had to fix your blend doors and/or recirc door? The Jeep I just bought has both broken - apparently its pretty common and even throws a code. The dealership is refusing to do poo poo about it, so it looks like im going to have to replace them myself.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2009 21:33
|
|
|
Awesome, thanks for the help. I am gonna go look at it today, one of my buddies has a fuel pressure gauge that should make things even easier, since I have a Haynes and know what PSI I want to see. I have just been having problems getting to where I can work on it before it gets dark lately, so hopefully today I can make a determination before nightfall. I am pretty sure I hear the fuel pump pressurizing when I turn the key to the ON position -- or at least I'm hearing something from the rear end. I'm going to attempt to inspect the fuel filter today, and with any luck that will be my problem. I have a friend who works for a company that owns many Pacific Pride stations, and as he changes the filters he always collects and then filters out a decent quantity of free gas, but the downside is that there's sometimes a bit of sediment in there, which is what makes me think the fuel filter is the primary issue. I will report back later once I know more. I hate it when Jeeps break from on-road poo poo, but I love it when it's something easy and cheap.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2009 21:33
|
|
|
WildFoxMedia posted:Any of you WJ owners had to fix your blend doors and/or recirc door? nope but before you buy an OEM replacement there is an upgraded shaft thingy you can buy. The install cuts the box open from the outside and then reseals it rather than having to remove the entire dash. Its about 200$ or something and comes in both the single and dual zone versions (from memory).
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2009 23:09
|
|
|
My '90 4.2L YJ is spending too much gasoline. I know they are guzzlers, but not 116miles to the tank guzzlers. Already checked carburetor mix with a pro and it's fixed now, but it's still chugging a looot of gas. Also, it smells like gas for about 5 minutes after turning it on. I've head it's a vapor/charcoal canister but I have no idea where that is. Could those two things be related? It doesn't smell like burnt gas, it smells like gas being dripped somewhere, but I don't see it.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2009 02:47
|
|
|
GanjamonII posted:nope but before you buy an OEM replacement there is an upgraded shaft thingy you can buy. The install cuts the box open from the outside and then reseals it rather than having to remove the entire dash. Its about 200$ or something and comes in both the single and dual zone versions (from memory). Yea, theres two different companies, Blen Dor & HeaterTreater that offer those types of products. Cutting up the heater box doesn't really excite me in the first place, but the other part that annoys me about the "no dash removal fixes" is that the fix for the recirculating door is basically sticking it in either always outside air, or always inside air and losing the ability to switch. I guess thats what you get for not having to rip your dash apart, but part of me doesnt want to accept that as a permanent fix.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2009 05:07
|
|
|
Clamwacker posted:
Actually the passenger side hinges are the same as the driver side, just flipped over. The bad part is that where the hinge connects to the body is welded, you can unbolt the doors but not the hinge itself. You need to find out what part bent before we can really guide you in what repair to attempt though.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2009 06:04
|
|
|
Ah, flipped over, yes. I guess that explains why it looked different to me. So I replaced the distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs and wires today, after seeing they were all pretty nasty, and while that was quite a hopeful development, the old bitch still won't start. There is definitely pressurized fuel at the fuel rail, so the fuel pump is clearly working and the fuel filter must not be clogged. That leaves the ignition coil perhaps being bad (anybody know how to test this easily?), and perhaps clogged fuel injectors or something. Other than that, I am confused. I left my Haynes in the Jeep, but that thing is not really very helpful for this situation anyway. Any troubleshooting suggestions to isolate where the problem is would be much appreciated.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2009 06:31
|
|
|
WildFoxMedia posted:Yea, theres two different companies, Blen Dor & HeaterTreater that offer those types of products. Get in there and slap a choke cable onto the blend door lever to manually ocntrol it. Someone did it in the what did you do to your ride today thread. I had originally suggested a bicycle shifter, since it has multiple click positions for adjustable blend, but a choke cable works.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2009 07:18
|
|
|
Sponge! posted:Get in there and slap a choke cable onto the blend door lever to manually ocntrol it. Someone did it in the what did you do to your ride today thread. I had originally suggested a bicycle shifter, since it has multiple click positions for adjustable blend, but a choke cable works. The blend door im not worried about that, HeaterTreater and Blen Dor both make "hack your heater box" products that keep the factory dual zone heat in-tact. The recirc door is the one I was worried about. Speaking of issues - Maybe I have another issue, or just incorrect expectations. My GC has Quadra-Drive; from my understanding that means 4x4 is always available, however, it only drives in 2 wheel drive until the system detects tire slip, then engages 4 wheel drive. When I pull out of my driveway or parking lot at work, and I turn the wheel almost to lock I get that bumping sensation you get when you put a truck into 4x4 and do the same thing. Does that mean 4 wheel drive is erroneously engaging, is it just because its cold and hasn't built up vacuum or whatever voodoo it uses or is it just part of the "4 wheel drive available all the time" system?
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2009 08:12
|
|
|
WildFoxMedia posted:The blend door im not worried about that, HeaterTreater and Blen Dor both make "hack your heater box" products that keep the factory dual zone heat in-tact. The recirc door is the one I was worried about. Choke cable works for recirc too.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2009 08:28
|
|
|
Sponge! posted:Choke cable works for recirc too. Too bad the choke cable wont work for my quadra-drive issue... or will it?
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2009 08:36
|
|
|
Clamwacker posted:That leaves the ignition coil perhaps being bad (anybody know how to test this easily?), and perhaps clogged fuel injectors or something. AutoZone will test it for free, or you can just pull a plug/wire, hold it to a grounding point with some pliers and see if it's sparking or not while someone else is cranking it over. Before mine went out for good, it gave one last half-assed stumble of a start that let me go to lunch from work only to be stranded. Fortunately it's a cheap replacement. The stock one lasted somewhere around 180,000 miles.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2009 08:51
|
|
|
Well I can't get the rig to AutoZone without it starting, maybe I can persuade them to come out and test it. The way I determined that there is spark is by arcing the #1 plug wire to a ground, so I assume the ignition coil must be good. Others have suggested that it's my fuel injectors but I have no idea how I would test that to confirm/deny.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2009 10:16
|
|
|
Clamwacker posted:Well I can't get the rig to AutoZone without it starting, maybe I can persuade them to come out and test it. long handled screwdriver with a plastic grip thingy, put the blade on the body of the injector and try cranking the engine, put your ear on the other end of the screwdriver. You should hear/feel sharp hard tapping as the injector pulses. Poor man's mechanics Stethascope.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2009 10:28
|
|
|
Good to know! Once I have eliminated the easy/free potential problems (bad grounds, etc) then I will definitely check that out. I just realized I can probably pull the ignition coil and take it to AutoZone for testing too, which is probably what Mr. Fry meant, but I don't think the coil is the problem if I am getting spark at the plugs. Anybody know how much I am going to hate life if it turns out that one of my spark plugs is crossthreaded, as appears to be the case? VVVV Well it's not the only vehicle at my disposal, but I certainly couldn't drive the Jeep down there the way it is now.
Clamwacker fucked around with this message at 12:41 on Dec 31, 2009 |
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2009 10:48
|
|
|
Yeah, I meant the coil but didn't realize you had no other means to get there anyway. v v
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2009 11:02
|
|
|
Clamwacker posted:Anybody know how much I am going to hate life if it turns out that one of my spark plugs is crossthreaded, as appears to be the case? Pretty similiar to crushing a testicle in the hood latch.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2009 11:08
|
|
|
God drat it, the searching I've done indicates that I might actually need to crush both testicles in there. It ranges from "oh no big deal, just use a helicoil" to "ZOMG you would have more fun trying to gently caress a meat slicer" (ok I made that up, but genital mutilation seems to be the theme). I think I'll try to get it working without removing the last spark plug first, eliminating all other options, because one bad (or apparently not bad since the plugs weren't the problem) spark plug should at least result in me being able to start the thing. Having no experience with helicoils or "timeserts" or whatever, is this something where I am going to be searching eBay for meat slicers, or can I just ream the new spark plug in there and say gently caress it?
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2009 12:24
|
|
|
Had something in the radiator in my 95 XJ go yesterday and being New Years Eve I pretty much said gently caress this, parked it in a nearby farm and hitched to where I wanted to go but now trying to figure out what was wrong and if I'm going to have to tow it. Bit hard for me to get to it and back to town so figure this is worth a shot first. Basically I drove for about 5 hours in pretty hot weather, the gauge was sitting in the upper area of the normal range but was steady and in the safe area then something on the right hand side (if sitting in the car) spewed out massive amounts of water. Is it likely to be a hole blowing out like that or more likely to be a hose? The top hose was fine but I couldn't get a good look at the bottom with the tools that I had. The water went everywhere but afterward seemed to just be dripping from the bottom. Please tell me it's a hose so I can sort it out and avoid disgusting towing fees.
|
|
#
?
Jan 1, 2010 01:55
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 11, 2024 11:53 |
|
|
A couple people on a Jeep forum have mentioned that changing the Transfer Case fluid should help my "bumping" issue during turns. They also mentioned changing the lube in the front (especially front) and rear diff to see if that helps. God knows if and how long ago any of those have been changed.
|
|
#
?
Jan 1, 2010 01:56
|
|