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brad industry posted:I always throw in 1 roll of 1600 ISO just to have an excuse.
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Dec 23, 2009 12:31
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notlodar posted:Do this. It even works on the French. Bonus points for Ilford 3200 so they can go "oooohhhh my!" The last time I went to pick up Ilford 3200 the guy at the counter said something like, "What- are you going to be shooting a nascar race with all the lights turned off?" haha
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Dec 23, 2009 20:21
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notlodar posted:Do this. It even works on the French. Bonus points for Ilford 3200 so they can go "oooohhhh my!" Wouldn't that be "ooooh la la!"? 
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Dec 25, 2009 00:46
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 I've just been given this - wish me luck!
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Dec 27, 2009 17:24
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Ric posted:
Cool. I have a roll of ASA 100 Fuji color film that expired in 1980 that I want to shoot.
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Dec 27, 2009 19:49
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I have come into possession of several dozen rolls of expired film. They all appear to have expired around 2000-2002, and were stored in a cool basement. For black and white I have tmax 100, 400, and 3200, and plus-x. Do you guys think I can shoot and develop these like normal or should I modify my process somewhere? The c-41 is B&W 400, Portra 400NC, PJ800, PMZ 1000, Royal Gold 200, and one roll that I think says PMC 400 on it. There's also a couple rolls of slide film, should I ever bother trying with that? Stregone fucked around with this message at 23:55 on Dec 27, 2009 |
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Dec 27, 2009 23:32
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For me, black & white and slide film holds up really well, so that should be mostly fine. I have a bunch of exp. 1998 TMax and Ektachrome in my freezer, and every roll was exposed normally and has come out looking as expected. C-41, in my experience, doesn't age as well. I got a bunch from the same source (all late 90s/early 00s expiration) and they've all come back looking underexposed, even if I overexposed a bit. Might want to try overexposing by one stop, get it developed, and see how it turns out. This might give you some sort of indication as to how it has aged in those conditions.
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Dec 27, 2009 23:45
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Huh, I always thought slide film didn't age well. Interesting.
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Dec 28, 2009 04:04
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I bought a few chemicals but I have trouble finding the complete set of chemicals I need. I have two types of film - 400TX and 400TMAX. It seems like the Tri-x could be push processed (shoot at at higher exposure index value and spend longer developing time?) and TMAX can not? Any other differences? Any comments on Kodak T-MAX developer and Kodak Kodafix solution? I have been checking on other websites and watching youtube videos to get the grasp of developing my own B&W. I will probably experiment on my own but do I really need to use photoflo, a wetting agent and stop bath?  is there anyway to find some sort of data for mixing and matching different developers with different films?Shooting with a flea market Canon Rebel G and listening to the shutter is a very fun experience. I just hope the insides are still in good condition. I also need to stop looking for a LCD screen and histogram when there is only a film back. caberham fucked around with this message at 06:18 on Dec 28, 2009 |
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Dec 28, 2009 06:11
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As far as fixer goes, fixer is fixer to me. I honestly can't imagine what one brand of fixer could possibly have over another brand. I use a big jug of Ilford rapid fixer and it works fine. I do a clip test on a snippet of film before every developing just to make sure it still has kick. Remember not to pour it out after every use, just recycle it back into your container. It's a lot easier if you just dilute the entire bottle of fixer you get off the bat and keep it in a big jar or container. That way you don't have to portion out concentrate, and the only measurement you need with regard to fixer is knowing how much to pour from the bottle into your tank so you cover your roll. I just use water for my stop agent. Pour out your developer and flush the tank for two or so minutes which might even be overkill. Water shouldn't be freezing or hot, try to get the same temperature you developed at to prevent emulsion cracking. I haven't used photoflo or anything like that. I got water stains on my first roll so I add a drop of dishwasher jet-dry now and it seems to take care of everything. You can also wait until your photo is dry and just clean off the water stains. This chemical is entirely optional as far as I'm concerned. Unless you have the world's worst water I guess. Also, go here for all your developing times. They also make a great iPhone app that has all the timers built in if you have an iPhone and a few bucks to spare. The first time you develop a roll you'll probably be anxious and unsure of the timing, but after you've done it once you'll be able to do it in your sleep. Plus it's a lot of fun. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 07:10 on Dec 28, 2009 |
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Dec 28, 2009 07:02
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Stregone posted:Huh, I always thought slide film didn't age well. Interesting. caberham posted:I bought a few chemicals but I have trouble finding the complete set of chemicals I need. I have two types of film - 400TX and 400TMAX. It seems like the Tri-x could be push processed (shoot at at higher exposure index value and spend longer developing time?) and TMAX can not? Any other differences? TMax dev is good for push processing, but works ok as a general purpose developer too. I prefer HC-110 myself. Haven't ever used Kodafix, but it should be fine. Might as well get some photoflo, since its ridiculously cheap. I've heard of some pro labs that don't use stop bath, and its probably not 100% necessary, but I wouldn't skip it just because it saves time and I'm impatient. The Massive Dev Chart is another good resource for development times.
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Dec 28, 2009 07:12
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Can we talk scanning for a bit? I just got a V500 for Christmas and I'm trying both Vuescan and SilverFast with it but drat, is it always going to be this much of a pain in the rear end? I feel like I'm fighting this software to complete a simple task. What do you guys use and can you give me a brief outline of your scanning workflow?
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Dec 28, 2009 18:55
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My recommendation is to just leave VueScan at its' defaults (other than scan size, etc) and get your photos out of VS and into Lightroom (or another photo application) as quickly as possible. I would recommend setting a sample size of 4 or something though, since it does make your photos look a little better.
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Dec 28, 2009 19:20
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Thanks for the thread guys! I just developed my first roll of Tri-X 400 @ ISO 400 film with the canon rebel G 17-40/F4 L! I had to use a can opener to pop open the film canister so using the changing bag to load the film into the reel took me quite a while. however, I messed up majorly at the end. Instead of using clips and hanging them, I was cutting them into strips of 6 and laying them down to dry (i had not clips). Photoflo wont help you to prevent water streaks if gravity is not wicking the water away  All in all, I think I can get the hang of this. Printing and enlarging is the problem for me now. Lots of photo shops don't print B&W and only use colour paper. Is that a big concern? I don't really care for now and plan on using my regular canon ink jet/scanner. Or buy the fancier canon ink jet with film scanner..
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Dec 28, 2009 21:24
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As far as clips go, just go to Staples and buy a box full of document clips. Or those little clips you use to keep open chip bags closed. I use document clips and just hang them from a lamp. I really wish I had a more dust-free environment to do it in, but no dice But congrats on your first roll! It only gets easier from here.
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Dec 28, 2009 21:47
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I usually just tape the exposed leader to the ceiling of my shower using painters tape. There is not much floating dust in the bathroom because of the moisture.
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Dec 28, 2009 22:16
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That's a really good idea, I'm going to do this. Thanks!
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Dec 28, 2009 22:22
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 I bought a pair of suction cups with plastic hooks on them in the "bathroom" section of Walmart, tied a piece of nylon string to each, and strung a pair of binder clips up on it. The idea was having something easy to take down but it doesn't get in the way so I just leave it up full-time. I use wooden clothespins on the bottom to weight it.
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Dec 29, 2009 00:25
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w_hat posted:Can we talk scanning for a bit? I just got a V500 for Christmas and I'm trying both Vuescan and SilverFast with it but drat, is it always going to be this much of a pain in the rear end? I feel like I'm fighting this software to complete a simple task. What do you guys use and can you give me a brief outline of your scanning workflow? I scan using vuescan, I seem to get better scans with it over silverfast. As martyhoof said just scan with vuescan and leave it at that, I wouldnt try to do any post with scanner software.
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Dec 29, 2009 00:37
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w_hat posted:Can we talk scanning for a bit? I just got a V500 for Christmas and I'm trying both Vuescan and SilverFast with it but drat, is it always going to be this much of a pain in the rear end? I feel like I'm fighting this software to complete a simple task. What do you guys use and can you give me a brief outline of your scanning workflow? I use VueScan, used to scan at 3000dpi, now I go for a more moderate 1200. I don't have a lot of old stuff, so I leave Digital Ice off, as it adds time and sacrifices fine detail. The film I'm scanning is for the most part fresh out of the tank, so I just clone/etc all the imperfections out as needed. A graphics tablet (even a Wacom Bamboo) is great for this. With the higher res scans I usually go do something else (read, study, clean etc) since it can take 18-20 minutes to do 12 frames at 3000dpi. Now that scan at lower res this is less of an option, although I'll still use the time to tidy up my room or read a quick article or two on my old laptop. Edit: I think I asked before, not sure if it was in this thread or not. WTF is this crescent-shaped artifact? I've only seen it in this one shot: 
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Dec 29, 2009 17:32
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Looks to me like the film got bent there, or something was touching it during development.
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Dec 29, 2009 17:55
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Yeah I had that happened to me on a roll of Delta 3200 that REALLY didn't want to fit on the spiral. I believe it got bent on the last few frames leaving similar cresent shapes.
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Dec 29, 2009 18:48
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Hmm, I wonder it could be a thread or a hair or something? That's the only shot on the roll that it showed up in. Ah well.
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Dec 29, 2009 20:12
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If you forced the film onto the spiral, it could have become bent in just that one spot. When it's on the spiral don't forget that it doesn't go emulsion back to back to emulsion, but emulsion to plastic backing so it might well be the one place on the roll it would show up.
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Dec 29, 2009 20:20
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Reichstag posted:Looks to me like the film got bent there, or something was touching it during development. Yeah he bent the film before he developed it. I used to do that all the time with 120.
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Dec 29, 2009 20:47
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fronkpies posted:I scan using vuescan, I seem to get better scans with it over silverfast. Pompous Rhombus posted:I use VueScan, used to scan at 3000dpi, now I go for a more moderate 1200. I don't have a lot of old stuff, so I leave Digital Ice off, as it adds time and sacrifices fine detail. The film I'm scanning is for the most part fresh out of the tank, so I just clone/etc all the imperfections out as needed. A graphics tablet (even a Wacom Bamboo) is great for this. Thanks guys, that really does seem to be the best option.
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Dec 30, 2009 14:12
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Toys! Now I need a battery and a lens cap  Is there a euro-goons recommended place to get film?
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Dec 30, 2009 16:05
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evil_bunnY posted:Toys! I've been to this place - https://www.silverprint.co.uk/ They have a pretty wide range of everything you could want.
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Dec 30, 2009 17:05
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evil_bunnY posted:
I use http://firstcall-photographic.co.uk/shop/categories/b-w-film/ for my film, cheapest ive found so far for tri x in the uk.
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Dec 30, 2009 22:13
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evil_bunnY posted:Is there a euro-goons recommended place to get film? fronkpies, they're cheaper than firstcall for Tri-X.
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Dec 30, 2009 22:53
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Ric posted:I use 7dayshop.com. Forgot to mention I buy the tri x they roll themselves from bulk (http://firstcall-photographic.co.uk/shop/categories/b-w-film/0/profilm/profilm-tri-x-pro-135-36-iso-400/) I found that they very rarely have any stuff they have rolled themselves in stock, so they send you stock tri for the same price.
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Dec 30, 2009 22:57
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Thanks for the links pals. Tri-X for less than 3 pounds a roll is just what I was looking for. Hurray for the weak pound 8)
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Dec 30, 2009 23:42
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evil_bunnY posted:Thanks for the links pals. Tri-X for less than 3 pounds a roll is just what I was looking for. Hurray for the weak pound 8) If you plan on shooting a lot, look into bulk loading. Canada is in a similar situation in that B&W film prices can be horrific, but bulk loading takes a bit part of the sting out of that.
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Dec 31, 2009 00:00
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HPL posted:If you plan on shooting a lot, look into bulk loading. Canada is in a similar situation in that B&W film prices can be horrific, but bulk loading takes a bit part of the sting out of that. I wonder what will happen to the price of film in the long term? I have no idea whether it will drop or rise.
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Dec 31, 2009 00:04
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fronkpies posted:I wonder what will happen to the price of film in the long term? I have no idea whether it will drop or rise. Inevitably it will rise as the cost of materials, manufacturing and transportation goes up. It should be a fairly stable rise though as film's decline seems to have stabilized or even reversed so it's not like the market is going to shrink even more and throw off the economy of scale even more. The thing to remember is that film wasn't all that cheap even when every camera used film and there were many more manufacturers in the world.
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Dec 31, 2009 00:07
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Bought an enlarger yesterday from someone on craigslist (a 4x5 enlarger that only came with a 50mm lens  ), which included a box full of really old unexposed film:120 1x Verichrome Pan 125 1x Vericolor II 100 1x Kodacolor II 80 1x Kodacolor-X 80 5x Tri-X 400 35mm 2x Panatomic-X 32 1x HP5 400 1x Pan F 50 1x Ektachrome-X 64 4x bulk loaded rolls of (I think) Tri-X There was also most of a 100' roll of Tri-X in a bulk loader that I accidentally exposed. All of this film expired in the mid-70s, but I'm kind of curious to see how it all looks. I'll probably have to expose that Panatomic-X at EI 6 or something.
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Dec 31, 2009 00:28
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FasterThanLight posted:Bought an enlarger yesterday from someone on craigslist (a 4x5 enlarger that only came with a 50mm lens Out of curiosity, what did you pay for the enlarger? I'm thinking about picking one up in the next couple of months.
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Dec 31, 2009 00:57
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HPL posted:If you plan on shooting a lot, look into bulk loading. Canada is in a similar situation in that B&W film prices can be horrific, but bulk loading takes a bit part of the sting out of that. Also I've got C-41 color film in it now, but I've got to find a place that'll take that B&W since I don't have any developing supplies. What the gently caress did I just get myself into
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Dec 31, 2009 01:16
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evil_bunnY posted:Also I've got C-41 color film in it now, but I've got to find a place that'll take that B&W since I don't have any developing supplies. What the gently caress did I just get myself into Just buy the developing supplies yourself, B&W processing is usually more expensive than color at a lab, but is quite inexpensive and easy to do at home. It'll pay for itself by ten rolls, if not sooner. Dunno how it is over there, but often times in the US it's easy to pick up all the supplies you need from someone who took an Intro to Photography class at the local college and has no desire to keep shooting film.
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Dec 31, 2009 02:30
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Pompous Rhombus posted:Out of curiosity, what did you pay for the enlarger? I'm thinking about picking one up in the next couple of months.
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Dec 31, 2009 18:41
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