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I had an '02 as well, and switching to Redline was an unbelievable improvement. The grinding noises went away, and I was actually able to use 1st gear.
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Dec 27, 2009 00:57
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I cant imagine any reason to use anything else/less at this point. Can't wait to drive it when I go out later.
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Dec 27, 2009 01:31
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RealKyleH posted:So today was a maintenance day for the 02 WRX. Changed the fuel, air and oil filters and took it for a test drive. Definitely up on power, $50 well spent. Next was time to replace my tranny fluid. You should have never had 88k mi on your original gear oil.
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Dec 27, 2009 02:50
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That lightweight shockproof is like seafoam green black magic voodoo make my tranny work again poo poo.
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I think I'm going to sell my current project since it's pretty much "done" (91 Legacy wagon) and get something different. I'm looking at a 98-01 Legacy, Outback, or Forester... Any thoughts on which one will be the most fun? (Note: I'm aware of the misc issues each have, I'm just talking about fun for track use, winter use, and maybe some rallycross too post wrx brake swap, sti suspension swap, and some other fun stuff  )
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Dec 27, 2009 07:20
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Mat_Drinks posted:I think I'm going to sell my current project since it's pretty much "done" (91 Legacy wagon) and get something different. People rallycross in outbacks? Now this is something I gotta see. I treated my Outback to new front rotors and a new battery for X-mas. Hooray for good breaks and not having slow starts!
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Dec 27, 2009 16:03
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Tiny Faye posted:People rallycross in outbacks? Now this is something I gotta see. I don't know if "people" do, but I sure would
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Dec 27, 2009 17:24
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Doesnt the Outback have the extra long suspension travel?
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Dec 27, 2009 17:27
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Tiny Faye posted:People rallycross in outbacks? Now this is something I gotta see. I've seen plenty of them at rallycross. Not hard when about 75% of the field is Subarus.
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Dec 27, 2009 17:55
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1996 2.2L Impreza 4dr, I can't find the proper spark plug gap in any of the manuals, help?
MonkeyNutZ fucked around with this message at 00:49 on Dec 28, 2009 |
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Dec 28, 2009 00:06
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Other EJ22s I've seen are between 0.038 (EJ22T) and 0.043 (2000 Impreza L) inches - you could probably be okay with 0.040.
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Dec 28, 2009 01:15
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I'm looking to get a late '03 and up WRX Wagon some time soon. I can't seem to find many unmolested models, and the ones I do find or either high mileage 02s, or high priced. Should I be OK to buy a WRX with a few small mods, like Cobb, and TBE, without worry? I find ones with the larger turbos, and all kinds of crazy mods cheap, but I feel like its cheap for a reason. I've been done that road before with regret. I would rather get one without mods. Are there any mods that you would overlook? Or are they all susceptible? Would you buy a mild to medium modified one, or stay all stock? I know there are a few mods I would pretty much do right away, but I like knowing exactly whats been/being done. Thanks
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Dec 28, 2009 01:31
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What's the consensus on cheap ebay catless downpipes? Is a 40$ one asking for trouble?
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Dec 28, 2009 09:46
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Would getting the SPT catback and intake add a decent amount of "boxer growl" to an 07 WRX without being too loud on the highway? I think those two things plus an accessport are really as far as I want to go mod wise until the warranty is out.
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Dec 28, 2009 18:29
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.035 should work for a non-turbo car. I'm tempted to spend more money on my next gear oil change. It's 15f here and I can barely shift gears before my car warms up. If you're buying an accessport I really recommend getting a full turbo-back and a dyno tune. Just an axle-back and a stage 1 flash isn't going to do much. They make some pretty quiet full 3" exhausts.
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Dec 28, 2009 20:44
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The other constraining thing here is that I'm planning to move to San Francisco this summer, so I don't want anything that will make registering and smogging my car too much of a pain in the dick.
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Dec 28, 2009 22:44
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Is NASIOC the best bet for classifieds for Subaru parts? I'm trying to pick up the OEM roof rack on the cheap because my 08 WRX didn't come with it and craigslist is failing terribly. A full Thule kit is something like $500 and that is just insane.
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Dec 28, 2009 22:58
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Thanks to all who recommended the General Altimax's for snow tires. We got a couple inches of snow and thanks to the state budget crisis there's basically one snowplow for all of SE Michigan. The Forester stops better and handles much better than with the all seasons that I took off. Another couple of years like this and an AWD vehicle with snow tires is going to become mandatory for driving in this state.
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Dec 29, 2009 00:29
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About 9 days ago the northeast US got hit with a pretty big snow storm. That storm just happened to coincide with my scheduled winter vacation (a trip to Manhattan). We drove up to New York from Pennsylvania in the thick of the storm and made it there nearly incident free, except for when I got on the NJ turnpike. The on-ramps for the turnpike were completely unplowed, and it was impossible to tell where the lanes were. I couldn't see anyone in front of me to follow, so I took my best guess at where the lane I wanted was. Unfortunately this resulted in me driving smack into the divider between the two ramps, which had been buried under the 14" of snow, but was still tall enough to get my car slightly stuck (one front wheel on, one off) and caused a hard enough hit that I got out of the car to survey the situation. I couldn't see anything wrong, so I reversed off the divider and drove along. The car completed the trip and then got us home fine, but now I need to jack it up and take a close look to see what might have been damaged. I am already planning to have it realigned, and to thoroughly inspect the control arms, but I was wondering what all I should check for while I'm under there? The car is a 2005 Legacy GT.
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Dec 29, 2009 01:00
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nm posted:FYI, this is the result of changing your gear oil. The real test is at 30+k mi. Ill keep that in mind but as I said, I didn't.
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Dec 29, 2009 05:36
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LordOfThePants posted:Thanks to all who recommended the General Altimax's for snow tires. We got a couple inches of snow and thanks to the state budget crisis there's basically one snowplow for all of SE Michigan. The Forester stops better and handles much better than with the all seasons that I took off. Your welcome! Love those tires.
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Dec 29, 2009 05:52
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Sabotaged posted:What's the consensus on cheap ebay catless downpipes? Is a 40$ one asking for trouble? Not that paying for a $1000 downpipe is worth it, but don't expect a lot from a $40 one. And when I say don't expect a lot, I mean power, lack of rusting, and good welds. warwick5s posted:Would getting the SPT catback and intake add a decent amount of "boxer growl" to an 07 WRX without being too loud on the highway? I think those two things plus an accessport are really as far as I want to go mod wise until the warranty is out. I'd say go for the exhaust, but skip the intake. Especially if you're at all concerned about warranty issues.
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Dec 29, 2009 06:21
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Mat_Drinks posted:I'd say go for the exhaust, but skip the intake. Especially if you're at all concerned about warranty issues. The SPT intake voids your warranty?
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Dec 29, 2009 06:31
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the spt intake is pretty crappy. if you're getting an intake go with the injen, aps, aem or a custom big maf housing if you need it. In fact I don't really like any spt products. when it comes to exhausts you need to decide if you want a full 3" exhaust. The cobb and spt are designed for the stock 2.5" donut gasket. Something like the invidia use a 3" flat flange. The difference between 3" and a donut gasket is 15-20whp on a stock turbo.
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Dec 29, 2009 06:56
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ab0z posted:The SPT intake voids your warranty? Ah I misread his post as "SPT exhaust and an intake" so the warranty thing is a non issue, but Jamal is right, the SPT intake is pretty meh. Everything I've read on intakes short of pretty serious builds is 'meh' though.
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Dec 29, 2009 07:09
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jamal posted:the spt intake is pretty crappy. if you're getting an intake go with the injen, aps, aem or a custom big maf housing if you need it. Price point is what makes SPT attractive to me. $400 (or less) for a lightly used SPT that isn't gently caress off loud is easier on the wallet than a Borla Hush for my sedan. Also CARB  .
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Dec 29, 2009 07:34
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Yeah, the SPT being CARB legal and warranty friendly are the big draws, I'd like to stick with Subaru parts until the warranty is up, at least. I'm not above saying I'm doing it mainly for the sound, either.  The car is plenty fast for me as is.
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Dec 29, 2009 17:40
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warwick5s posted:Yeah, the SPT being CARB legal and warranty friendly are the big draws, I'd like to stick with Subaru parts until the warranty is up, at least. I just don't have anyplace to keep the stock stuff. A DP sure, but the whole turbo back is a little hard to store right now. Can't say that I see the point of doing just a cat back.
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Dec 29, 2009 20:01
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everything we have seen with the spt either tuning or comparison dyno pulls has shown that it sucks. It results in funny maf readings/ inconsistent afrs and higher IATs. Chances are your car will run worse after installing it. It is a giant piece of poo poo and I have said that over and over in this thread. The AEM and possibly injen intakes are also carb approved. And who said the spt was warranty friendly?
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Dec 29, 2009 21:12
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My car ran worse with a Cobb short ram intake, and even worse than that with the SPT intake. I have a stock airbox now with a K&N drop in, Gimmick Motorsports inlet/aftermaf combo, and it's a beautiful thing.
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Dec 29, 2009 23:07
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jamal posted:In fact I don't really like any spt products. Is it too expensive? Probably (which is why i don't own one) It is a pretty good fit for the legacy and if I ever do buy an exhaust, it will be a 1 off that is similar (though 3 in) or the SPT.
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Dec 30, 2009 00:26
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I've got an Injen CARB-approved CAI on my '05 STi. Back to back with just a TBE, it was good for about 10 hp and 13 lb/ft, and tuned nicely compared to some of the other options that came in on customer cars. Sounds nice too. Any intake will require a remap for its particular diameter/flow characteristics to make power and be safe. DO NOT throw an intake on an untuned car, you'll run lean, and you're going to toast ring lands - matter of time. That said, I'd do many other things before an intake if I was starting over. My car is past the puddle-crashing stage anyways, but a cone sitting low in the fenderwell on the right-hand side is bad news if you're in an area subject to flooding. Something to think about - a non-fenderwell intake is pulling hot underhood air, and a CAI puts you at a little more risk with in deep water.
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Dec 30, 2009 07:33
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yeah, we had a guy come in with a cai, he had gone through a deep puddle fast enough to tear off the front lip and fender liner and hydrolock the motor. Not something I'd really be all that concerned about though, as long as you didn't do something dumb like remove the fender liners entirely so you could be extra hellaflush
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Dec 30, 2009 07:53
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Are what look like seeping gear oil leaks around the front axles on a 02 Impreza RS something to be worried about?
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Dec 31, 2009 03:32
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Welp I could have died tonight, was driving somewhat spiritedly (though pretty much at the speed limit) on damp roads going around a quarter circle, and managed to slide into the next lane (outer lane to inner lane, which was funky). Luckily it was a same direction lane and the road was pretty empty. My tires still have tread, RE92 just blow rear end in the rain. I already knew this but it still surprised me. I think I'll order a set of RE960as for my Legacy GT, unless anyone else has a better idea. Mostly wet climate here.
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Dec 31, 2009 08:22
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I live in South Florida and the RE960as have been nothing but amazing in the rain.
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Dec 31, 2009 15:39
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So I'm looking for a new car! I currently drive a 2002 PT Cruiser and I go to school up in the mountains. I need something that has a bit more cargo capacity, and I definitely want something that is either 4x4 or AWD. I started looking at SUVs and found some nice Grand Cherokees and the like... ..Then I came across the Outback/Forester. It would seem to fit my needs perfectly. I'm looking to spend around $5000 on it, so that would put me in a late 90's model. Does anyone have any recommendations/warnings about the Outback or Forester from that time period/mileage to avoid/any useful tips? I was also looking at Volvo wagons from the same era. Is there something about Subaru that would make it a better bet (aside from the fact that there's a Subaru dealership in my town, and the Volvo dealership is in the next state)
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Dec 31, 2009 19:10
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Only real thing is the 2.5 headgasket issue. For $5000 you might be able to sneak into a 2000+ Subaru, otherwise just make sure the head gasket has been replaced if you end up getting a 2.5 from 96-99.
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Dec 31, 2009 19:23
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warwick5s posted:Only real thing is the 2.5 headgasket issue. This isn't 100% insurance (replaced HG), FWIW. My '98 twin-cam just ate its third and I'm about to put a bullet in it. I suspect the block needed to be decked after the first one, in hindsight. *sigh* Anyone want to buy some ported / polished / 5-angle valve-ground / TWE cammed 2.5L DOHC heads for cheap?
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Dec 31, 2009 20:54
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sofullofhate posted:This isn't 100% insurance (replaced HG), FWIW. My '98 twin-cam just ate its third and I'm about to put a bullet in it. I suspect the block needed to be decked after the first one, in hindsight. How cheap is cheap?
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Dec 31, 2009 21:03
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I have a 2007 Legacy GT, and I popped the hood today to put in windshield washer fluid. I checked the coolant tank and it looked like the attached images. Google tells me it can be very few things: 1. A certain type of coolant tends to gunk up like that. My coolant was changed (should have been changed) ~1000 miles ago for the 30K service. When I've checked my coolant expansion chamber previously it usually has liquid in it. Obviously, the cold weather could mean the coolant fluid isn't hot enough to expand into the chamber. I can drive it so the coolant does expand and I can see what that looks like... tomorrow 2. Head gasket failure... not looking forward to this Is there something to worry about and, if there is, what would I do to further diagnose? Images (and I have no idea why two are blue tinted and one isn't): .jpg) Click here for the full 1600x1200 image. The rubber hose is definitely white spotted in the .jpg) Click here for the full 1600x1200 image. I can get higher quality images if needed. blaitarch fucked around with this message at 15:53 on Jan 1, 2010 |
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Jan 1, 2010 05:26
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