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I have a greyhound too, I'm well aware of their temperature sensitivity. What I'm saying is that you need to take him out on a schedule when you get home rather than whenever he asks to go out. This may reduce the indoor peeing. It will not eliminate it unless you work on the underlying anxiety issues. Separation anxiety is something that can frequently be "cured" by altering your own behaviors and working with him.
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Dec 26, 2009 23:33
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Also, our greyhound loves her coat, which is a good idea if you're in somewhere cold. Plus, they're used to having to wear things, so they won't fuss over it like some dogs. Do you have a crate available for him? When we got our Aqua, our adoption lady told us, in no uncertain terms, to get a crate and have that be their safe place. For the former racers, their crate was a major source of safety and security, not to mention it being a den like environment which all dogs love. If you put him in there while you aren't home, or while your mom isn't there, it should cut down on his anxiety. Also, when you get home, let him out of his crate, take him outside, and the moment where you can't be around him or be aware of him? Put him in the crate again. He won't pee in there, guaranteed. When he gets a little older and more secure with you leaving you won't have to resort to it, but till then, use that crate. I'm not gonna lie, my puppy has a habit of peeing while I'm sleeping, so she gets to sleep in the crate at night. Just let them out at the normal time and make sure they get exercise, but don't be afraid to use the crate.
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Dec 27, 2009 03:11
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Just kind of wondering what these ridiculous bundles of cute are: 
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Dec 27, 2009 07:40
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I think those cuties are Japanese Pygmy Flying Squirrels.
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Dec 27, 2009 07:54
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You're wonderful. One more and I'll leave you guys alone and go post pictures of my bunnies in the house rabbit thread. Any idea?
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Dec 27, 2009 08:10
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This is weird. I have a curly-tail dog - a pug mix - and he's always had a pretty tightly curled tail. Sometimes it comes unwound when he's lying down and really focused on chewing something, but it always snaps back. Last night I noticed it was just hanging down straight, even while he walks around and stuff. I'm kinda freaked out - is this normal? Will it come back? He's almost a year and a half old now.
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Dec 27, 2009 14:34
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I have 9 foster kittens at the moment, 7 of whom have ringworm and are being treated with Itrafungol. One of the youngest kittens (8 weeks) became lethargic the last couple of days. I thought she was just being sleepy because it's cold, and put the heating on more. Yesterday afternoon she didn't eat, but again I thought it was probably just because she'd eaten earlier (free fed). I tried to call my vet to reassure myself, but with it being Xmas weekend I couldn't get through. So, I left it til early this morning... by then she was weak and cold despite being snuggled in bed with me, and again with no interest in food. I stood her up to see if she could walk, and she promptly peed on my bed. The pee was red/brown  I rushed her across the city to the best emergency vet I knew of, skidding on the icy roads, but got there. Vet examined and said she has normal temperature, and prescribed antibiotics (Betamox) for a possible bladder infection/inflammation, gave her a shot of antibiotics, and sent me home. He contacted my normal vet for me (he sometimes covers her if she's on holiday/off) and I got a text a while later with some advice from usual vet. I went and bought stinky wet food, tuna food, fresh chicken, more kitten milk replacement, whiskas cat milk, and plain electrolytes. She turned her nose up at *all* of it (and I know she normally adores the cat milk) but I used a dropped to give her maybe 8ml of the electrolyte solution. I'm going to try give her another 2-6ml in the new half hour. The problem is, she's still cold and lethargic, even though I have her under a radiator. If I move her to the water bowl she will drink a little then just lay down and whimper. She doesn't seem able to walk well. I'm doing everything both vets told me to, but I'm still really really worried. Does this all sound normal for a bladder infection in a kitten? I'm concerned that it could be something like kidney failure given how sick she seems Oh and, crappy photo:  Click here for the full 1536x2048 image.
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Dec 27, 2009 19:44
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I would definitely call the vet back, but it's been my experience with kittens that they're like little kids - if something hurts, they act very dramatic about it. Something that an adult cat would just deal with and not given any signs is a big deal to a kitten. We had a kitten who ripped a claw out and you would have thought someone had skinned her alive for all the crying and dramatic limping and misery. A different cat had a very similar injury as an adult and we didn't even notice for a few days because he didn't seem to even care. Stay on top of it, when they're little they can go downhill so fast Fingers crossed that she's just being a whiny baby because it hurts and not because it's worse than the vet thought.
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Dec 27, 2009 20:00
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Well my usual vet told me that the next step they'd take would be IV fluids, and she isn't sure the charity I foster for will approve it They've spent a fortune on vet bills this year, and are really struggling to keep going. I already spent around 100 myself today because I couldn't just sit here. Thanks for the advice tho  I managed to get another 5ml of electrolytes down her, as well as a few ml of kitten milk replacement, and an extra dose of antibiotics (was told to give if she was still not improving this evening). I tried putting her in the litter tray as I havent seen her pee since this morning, but she just lay down in the litter and whimpered a bit. Have put her back under the radiator for now, and periodically checking on her. Another sleepless night for me I think!If she hasn't improved by the morning, or if she gets any worse, I'll have her straight back at the vets anyway. I really hope she's just being a whiner and she's not as bad as she seems!
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Dec 27, 2009 20:49
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Effexxor posted:Also, our greyhound loves her coat, which is a good idea if you're in somewhere cold. Plus, they're used to having to wear things, so they won't fuss over it like some dogs. He absolutely loathes being in small areas, so I doubt a crate would work. He's seven, and my boyfriend has had this dog for four or five years so it's not a question of a puppy getting used to a new place or anything like that. I wonder if he does it because he's stressed that our other dog is an aggressive piece of poo poo. (I think she should be put down, no doubt, but my boyfriend is a bit of an idiot and "loves her" too much to put her down)
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Dec 27, 2009 23:17
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uptown posted:He absolutely loathes being in small areas, so I doubt a crate would work. He's seven, and my boyfriend has had this dog for four or five years so it's not a question of a puppy getting used to a new place or anything like that. 1) He would still probably benefit from crate training. If he's too claustrophobic to do crate training, it still might help to restrict him to a playpen or something. He may not be a puppy, but this problem could very well be solved by going "back to basics" and retraining him from the ground up. Giving him a space that is just his may help boost his confidence. 2) If the other dog bullies him and you and your boyfriend are his defenders, when you leave he is defenseless. This probably contributes to his anxiety. This is another area where crate training (or a modified version) might help, because it will give him an escape from her. Get him a crate or an x-pen or something and do NOT allow the female to go there.
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Dec 27, 2009 23:38
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Yayyy she hates the choke chain!  She mouthed it twice on the way back from the pet store but dropped it right away - really seems to dislike the feel of it on her teeth. Thanks Pet Island!
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Dec 28, 2009 05:22
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Update on my foster kitten for any interested; this morning she seemed a little stronger, but her breathing was worse, and she was still refusing to eat or walk. I kept her warm in the morning, and hydrated with electrolyte solution, and then called my vet in the afternoon. She was off work, but came to the surgery for me anyway. Turns out the poor kitty also has pneumonia now. Vet gave me some high nutrition powder that I have to syringe feed her slowly, and a heating pad and she got another shot of antibiotics, stronger this time. She was only 0.75kg last week, and she's down to 0.58kg now Still, the vet was cautiously optimistic because her temperature is ok, and I've managed to keep her warm and hydrated so far. Vet couldn't take her in as kitten needs constant care now and there's no staff there. I've taken tomorrow off work so that I will be around to care for her though, so fingers crossed for her. Update: This morning she seemed very lively but she took a very sudden turn for the worse and I jumped into the car with her and sped to the vets (still in my pyjamas and with no shoes on). Sadly she didn't make it even the 5 minutes to the vets. They are doing a free post mortem for me today. This is the first pet I've lost since I was a child, and I don't know what to do with myself 
Helanna fucked around with this message at 13:31 on Dec 29, 2009 |
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Dec 28, 2009 18:24
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Is there an "adopting a dog" megathread somewhere around? I went back 10 pages and didn't see anything like it. Just the puppy one..and that is super helpful about the basics, but nothing about adopting. But then, maybe I'm over-thinking this. My son is going to be 4 in Feb. He is totally and completely dog crazy. My husband and I talked it over and think that yeah..when he's 5 or so we could see about adopting a dog (it would be my dog, that hopefully he would help care for with supervision). I'm thinking some sort of Poodle or poodle mix would be a good fit, but I dunno..thoughts? At any rate, I've started looking around on Petfinder and there are a lot of different rescues and shelters out there and they all seem to have different expectations and rules for adoption. Can I expect help matching us up with a good dog? Will they let us visit and see if it's a fit? Do I have to put up with them treating us like dog molesters? Seriously, was one group that literally yells at people to not waste their time before they even describe the dog. I have one indoor cat who will be pretty elderly by the time we get this dog, will that be an issue if we get a dog who is used to cats? We live in an area of apple orchards on a big plot of land..should we still fence? I have years to think about this, but figure I should start thinking now and be ready. thanks everyone.
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Dec 28, 2009 21:09
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Poodles are pretty chill sighthounds and great dogs (I am guessing you mean standard and not miniature) and most poodle mixes are pretty cool too (even Labradoodles). You'll have to decide whether you are happy with an adult dog or try and get a puppy, there's reasons to do both. I'm not sure as many puppies come up for rescue though. A good rescue will meet all your hopeful expectations. Breed-specific rescues are generally better than general animal shelters and rspca's. They'll know the dogs, what their personalities are like, and hopefully how they are with kids, other dogs, cats, etc. They'll know it's in their interest to match you to a suitable dog, otherwise the dog just gets returned or worse. They'll ask you questions to that effect. They'll want to know your schedule, how experienced you are with dogs, perhaps come and see your house, etc. and will welcome involvement with you after adoption. Most of them will ask that you return a dog which doesn't work out to them, rather than giving to a friend, etc. I can't imagine that a good rescue wouldn't let you meet the dog you want to adopt, but it might depend on the dog's situation/location (kennels, foster home, dog park, etc.) You can always contact local rescues early and see how they respond to you, your questions, your timeline, etc.
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Dec 28, 2009 21:33
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Kiss Kiss Bang Bang posted:Can I expect help matching us up with a good dog? Not everywhere, but after you submit the application, you can write an email explaining what you're looking for, and those that respond positively to that are worth following up with. The people who take time to follow up their application with an email asking sensible questions and concerns, get way more of my time and attention than the folks who just fill out an application with no details at all about what they want to adopt from me. A good trigger phrase that gets people's attention is something like "do you have an adoption counselor who could meet with us before we meet any adoptables, to help us determine what kind of dog would be the best fit for our family". That shows that you're thinking in advance about making it work, rather than being in love with one specific dog. Kiss Kiss Bang Bang posted:Will they let us visit and see if it's a fit? Yes, this is standard. Often they'll want to do one visit in the rescue/foster home or at an adoption event, and a second visit in your own home. If they get cagey about you meeting the dog, definitely go elsewhere. Kiss Kiss Bang Bang posted:Do I have to put up with them treating us like dog molesters? Seriously, was one group that literally yells at people to not waste their time before they even describe the dog. Kinda, yeah, but you shouldn't get that, because you are clearly intelligent and concerned about the process, and are going read their adoption policies and follow the application instructions. You wouldn't believe the people who ignore everything we write and send me emails like "CAN YOU FEDEX HER TO ME BEFORE CHRISTMAS ALSO DON'T SPAY HER BEFORE U SEND HER BECAUSE WE WANT BABIES". (Idiot of the Month Bonus: the animal in question is a neutered boy listed on the "I've been Adopted!" page). But an adoption works best if you have a good rapport with a rescue - if you feel attacked, it won't work, so just go elsewhere. Here's some other things that might help you in selecting a rescue: 1. Should have a "welcome to return" policy - if the adoption doesn't work out, you aren't stuck with the dog or expected to keep her indefinitely till the rescue can work her back in. 2. Should have post-adoption "mentors" available to answer any questions that come up after adoption. These two points indicate that they care about what happens with you and the dog in the long-term, and aren't just going to forget both of you the minute you pay them. 3. Should be willing to give you the name/number of their vet so you can confirm that the advertised vet care was provided to the dog. 4. Should be willing to give you the name/numbers of OTHER RESCUES that you could try - if they don't want to give you any names, it may mean they don't have a good reputation in the rescue community, and are afraid that you'll hear about it once you start looking around. 5. Listens to your concerns - if they recommend a dog which feels too high energy to you, they won't dismiss your concern with "oh he'll probably settle down once he's in a stable home".
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Dec 28, 2009 21:34
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Kiss Kiss Bang Bang posted:Is there an "adopting a dog" megathread somewhere around? I went back 10 pages and didn't see anything like it. Just the puppy one..and that is super helpful about the basics, but nothing about adopting. But then, maybe I'm over-thinking this. We don't have anything specifically about adopting (maybe one day one of us will get around to doing that). Most of the stuff in the puppy megathread still applies though. Shelters: Lots of dogs, less knowledge of each dog's temperament (the way a dog acts in a shelter setting is not how it will act in your home), typically cheaper and very few requirements for adopters but also very little support post-adoption. Rescues: Often breed specific, invest more time into fewer dogs, have more information about how a particular dog will act in a home setting, typically cost more and will have more requirements for potential adopters. Often more helpful in helping you pick a dog that will work for your situation and better able to help you out post-adoption. Some cautions: Some places care more about getting animals into homes than finding them homes that are good matches. This is more often true of shelters but happens with both. Some places become crazy about their requirements of potential adopters and adopt very few animals out because no one is perfect enough for them. This is more often true of rescues but can happen with some shelters as well. Any adopted animal should see a vet shortly after you get it (as in, within the first week). Adopted animals are more prone to a few diseases than those from reputable breeders but are not generally sickly (so don't let it scare you off). One thing that it might be worth doing is finding a trainer in your area that you like and speaking to them...before you get the dog. You want to look for someone who is family friendly, uses positive methods, and has good communication skills. Observe a few classes and find someone who seems "right" to you (you can run them by us if you want some additional opinions on your choice). Then ask them to help you pick a dog. Most trainers are THRILLED to do this. It will also mean you don't need to worry about how good any one particular rescue is about matching dogs with owners AND give you a good reference (the trainer) when the rescue wants to check you out.
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Dec 28, 2009 21:39
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Thanks, that is really helpful to know! I was worried that if the dog (or us!) isn't a good fit what would happen then. I'm also getting the impression that there are some less the scrupulous "rescues" that are also on Pet finder. They used, what I gather are, BYB terms like G1 labradoodle. And made it sound like he was some sort of "pure bred" being put out to pasture after loyal breeding service. The "adoption fee" also seemed (to me) pretty high for a mutt. 450 dollars plus 150 travel fee. Is that high? Or is that actually fairly normal? And really, as far as the dog I say "poodle" because I've heard good things about their personality and that they don't shed as much as others dogs can. Miniature, standard, mix, mutt are all good as long as it is a good family dog and somewhat chill. I don't want a puppy, as great as they can be I'm a novice dog person so a dog that knows its own business might be a big help. These are great suggestions, and I'm going to sift through the rescues a bit more then send them email questions.
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Dec 28, 2009 23:57
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Question: I have a four year old male great dane who's licking his paws bloody. The vet gave me some ointment and told me to keep them wrapped. It healed them up, but as soon as the wrap comes off and he goes out in the grass to go potty, he's back to licking them again. The vet is convinced this is a grass allergy and so am I (it's really common for american dogs in Okinawa, apparently). I have booties on order from dfs, but god knows how long it'll take since I'm at an APO address. Noone has booties big enough for him at a physical store on the island. Anyone have any suggestions of products/things I could do to help him out? I've been putting socks on his feet after they're healed up and carefully wrapping them against his leg, but I'm so nervous about putting the wrap on too tightly that he seems to be great at getting them off and licking them the second I'm out of the house.
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Dec 29, 2009 00:20
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Here's another dog noob question... We have some guests coming from out of town tomorrow who will be bringing their cocker spaniel. They were originally going to leave him at home but I guess their pet sitter bailed. This will be the first time Sierra will have another dog in 'her' space. She plays well with others at the dog park but sometimes barks at dogs she sees outside our house. Any ideas what we should expect, and what we can do to make his stay (and particularly his initial arrival) the most pleasant and stress-free possible for our dog? I was thinking of crating her with a nice stuffed Kong just before they actually come in, and leaving her there for a few minutes just until she's done with the treat and the new dog has settled down - is this a terrible idea?
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Dec 30, 2009 00:49
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Have them meet outside on neutral territory. Then once they are cool with each other you can bring them in. It helps reduce the territorial feelings.
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Dec 30, 2009 02:12
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It will help if both dogs have recently been on a good walk (separately) to drain excess energy.
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Dec 30, 2009 04:59
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How can I get my dog to run with me. when we're both sprinting, she's faster than me at full sprint, so I know she's fast enough, but she cant keep a distance pace for long. Is it because she's out of shape (how do I fix this) or because she is trying to sniff every good god damned leaf, stick and Oak( tell me how to fix this). She's a rescued mutt, about 2 to 4 years old, and looks like a labrador/beagle mix(?). I'd like to take her along with me on my 5 and 7 mile jogs but she keepsslowing me down and breaking my rhythm. Any tips or tricks?
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Dec 31, 2009 16:09
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The Bananana posted:How can I get my dog to run with me. when we're both sprinting, she's faster than me at full sprint, so I know she's fast enough, but she cant keep a distance pace for long. Is it because she's out of shape (how do I fix this) or because she is trying to sniff every good god damned leaf, stick and Oak( tell me how to fix this). You REALLY have to work up slowly when it comes to endurance running like that. Yes, your dog is out of shape. Likely, also, she isn't "structured" for endurance running, which means that while some dogs (like huskies) are built to make each step efficient, your dog will have to work a little bit harder. This doesn't mean she can't be a running partner, it just means she's going to take some time to get to your level. I'm guessing when you started running, you couldn't do 5-7 miles like nothing.  Your best bet would be to plan on two running trips- one that's pretty quick for your dog, then a second one for yourself. Your dog will let you know when she's tired (you'll be able to see it) and you want to make sure not to work her too hard. Eventually you'll be able to work up her endurance to your level. As far as her sniffing things, you'll probably want to stay on the same route every time you go out, so things aren't as new to her. Other than that, just keep her at a good pace. Usually, that will help with distractions. Good luck!
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Dec 31, 2009 16:26
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The Bananana posted:How can I get my dog to run with me. when we're both sprinting, she's faster than me at full sprint, so I know she's fast enough, but she cant keep a distance pace for long. Is it because she's out of shape (how do I fix this) or because she is trying to sniff every good god damned leaf, stick and Oak( tell me how to fix this). To build on what Wolfenstein said... I take my ~3 year old 45lb lab mix, Kara, for bike rides, typically of about 5 miles. We had to start at 1 mile, and for the first few times at the end of that she was dragging. By the end of a couple of weeks of 1-1.5 mile rides she was still trotting along at the end of things and we started going for longer distance rides. For Kara, once we broke the 2 mile mark she was rapidly good for longer distances. A few tips: Start with about 1 mile and add about 1/4 mile a week to the total length. Keep your dog at a trotting pace for most of the trip (with Kara we do a couple of 1/4 mile sprints, the rest trotting) Keep an eye on her breathing and her paw pads. Some dogs will run long past they should, until their feet are bleeding. If you damage her feet you will have to take a long break which will seriously slow down her progress. Even if you jog every day, start with no more than 3-4 times a week for her until she's in better shape. Work on the leave it command and use it when she tries to stop to sniff Give her planned breaks to pee/poop (will decrease sniffing in other areas) and ALWAYS carry poop bags (I am always forgetting). Stay off the pavement as much as possible, it wears down their paw pads and is harder on their joints. Eventually she should get the idea that some times are "work" times, and that jogs are one of those times. Kara wanted to stop for everything when we first started, now she only tries if another dog starts pulling toward her. She'll ignore squirrels, cats, kids, calm dogs, etc.
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Jan 1, 2010 03:12
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Thanks for the tips guys; guess I'll have to be patient with her.
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Jan 1, 2010 05:44
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I bet this has probably been asked before, but: How do cats tend to react to moving after having lived in a single house for the better part of a decade? Do they get all freaked the gently caress out about it for the rest of their lives, or do they get used to it eventually?
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Jan 1, 2010 07:22
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WardeL posted:I bet this has probably been asked before, but:
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Jan 1, 2010 09:08
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My seven month old dog knows all of the basics (sit, down, stay, come, etc.) as well as a few tricks. He does them all very consistently, except there is one problem. He will only do them if you have some kind of reward in your hand (treat or toy) or he thinks you have one (gave him one previously and are holding hand like you have a treat in it). If I don't have anything in my hand and try to ask him to sit, he just doesn't give a poo poo. Any tips on getting him to start obeying commands without a reward?
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Jan 1, 2010 18:13
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I recently got what I believe is a Siamese cat that my brother had found abandoned outside in a box. My brother taught her to use the litter box so I am confident that when I go to work, she will be okay with her box, food, water, and a few toys. My apartment is basically divided into 2 parts with a door in the middle; she stays in the back half while I'm gone, so it's a large bedroom and a bathroom. But when I get home, she's always sitting patiently right inside that dividing door. Am I spending too much time away from her? (I work regular 8-hour shifts.)
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Jan 2, 2010 11:29
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I'm sure she misses you but cats are fine for the day on their own. You can get her interactive toys like balls in a round track or treat containers she has to bat at to get the treat out and cat trees with nice window views to keep her from getting bored but many cats sleep 18 hours a day any way. She will be fine while you are at work. Congrats on your new rescue!
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Jan 2, 2010 12:26
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ChairmanMeow posted:I'm sure she misses you but cats are fine for the day on their own. You can get her interactive toys like balls in a round track or treat containers she has to bat at to get the treat out and cat trees with nice window views to keep her from getting bored but many cats sleep 18 hours a day any way. She will be fine while you are at work. Congrats on your new rescue! Thanks! I'll look for interactive toys the next time I'm out. Right now she has this little collapsible tunnel thing, and some fuzzy balls to bat around, and she loves playing with the charger to my old cell phone.
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Jan 2, 2010 21:53
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I guess I want some advice regarding my girlfriend's 6 and a half year old tibetan spaniel. Her dog hasn't passed a stool in approximately two days and she won't be able to take him to the vet until tomorrow morning. If it makes any difference, he's been really stressed out lately since he's had to stay at her dad's house for the past week since she went away for the week and there's a new puppy there that seems to agitate him a whole bunch. Anyways, from what I've gathered, midway through last week, he had trouble pooping due to his long fur getting matted up with poop so her dad took him to the vet and the vet cleaned that up and trimmed the area around his anus to keep the fur from getting further matted, and unfortunately, it seems he had a bit of a rash around his anus, so the vet gave her dad some cream to help with the rash. To make a long story short, the poor little guy won't poop anymore, and he isn't eating very much. Anytime my girlfriend takes him out to his spot in the backyard, he gets super excited but once he gets out there, he runs his bum against the ground and whimpers. She's been making sure he has fresh water available, and taking him out so he can try to poop, and I guess the little dude is going to the vet in the morning, but is there anything we can do in the meantime to try to help him out?
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Jan 4, 2010 05:23
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slow hands posted:I guess I want some advice regarding my girlfriend's 6 and a half year old tibetan spaniel. Her dog hasn't passed a stool in approximately two days and she won't be able to take him to the vet until tomorrow morning. If it makes any difference, he's been really stressed out lately since he's had to stay at her dad's house for the past week since she went away for the week and there's a new puppy there that seems to agitate him a whole bunch. As for poop in dog butt fur, next time just take a soapy paper towel and get it off as soon as it happens.
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Jan 4, 2010 06:16
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Why are some people up in arms about keeping Bengal cats? (The cat breed, not the tiger.) I hear two sides of the argument - one, that they're perfect pets after F4, the other that they're always going to be wild animals and are NOT pets. I get that they are wild-cat crosses - what makes the Bengal any different or more acceptable as a pet than, say, a wolfdog or coydog? Anything that comes with a warning about being X number of generations away from a completely wild animal just seems like a bad idea to me.
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Jan 4, 2010 17:13
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demozthenes posted:Anything that comes with a warning about being X number of generations away from a completely wild animal just seems like a bad idea to me. Everything that is only a small number of generations away from wild isn't a great idea in the hands of someone inexperienced. In the case of most Bengal cats though, their line goes back a long way and the "wild" is relatively nonexistant. My own Bengal cat is more than 8 generations away from the Asian Leopard cat and she acts exactly like my mixed bred domesticated-for-a-long-time cats! The only difference I have noticed with her is that she likes being up higher than the other cats, and she likes water more than the other cats; that could be personality or breed characteristic, but either way it's not something that's a problem! She's every bit as domesticated as the others, and is incredibly affectionate and loyal to me. She has never bitten anyone, refuses raw meat - she will only eat meat after I've cooked it for her. Not very wild! If you had a dog that had a single wolf in its history 8+ generation ago, that wouldn't be overly dangerous either I'd say. Completely different story if you're talking F1-4. Helanna fucked around with this message at 17:52 on Jan 4, 2010 |
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Jan 4, 2010 17:50
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RazorBunny posted:Honestly, dogs don't do things to spite you. He's probably got some level of separation anxiety that is resulting in him having a lot of tension, and when you get home he's getting excited/anxious/upset and it results in accidents. I can't say that I agree with this at all. The first time I left my mini-dachshund alone for more than a few days she completely ignored me on my return. That night, as I went to slip into bed, I noticed something wet under the covers... The little brat had wiggled under my covers, pissed enough to soak the sheets, mattress, and pillows, and wiggled back out in such a way that the blankets looked undisturbed. A few years later I went off to college, and she still ignores me when I come home on breaks. MY family calls me "the ghost," because Lucie will turn her back to me, walk away when I call her name, and generally act as though I don't exist. She knows what she's doing, and no one can convince me the vindictive little snot is acting otherwise.
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Jan 5, 2010 06:49
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Is it a good idea to have multiple water bowls around the house for one cat? He's getting older and I want to encourage him to drink more, but I'm worried this might confuse or annoy him somehow. He can be so drat finicky.
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Jan 5, 2010 22:22
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demozthenes posted:Why are some people up in arms about keeping Bengal cats? (The cat breed, not the tiger.) I hear two sides of the argument - one, that they're perfect pets after F4, the other that they're always going to be wild animals and are NOT pets. Also, in addition to what Helanna said, cats themselves are much less domesticated (relatively) than dogs. It is a bad idea to keep the earlier lines unless you know what you're prepared for, for sure (I know somebody with an F1 Savannah and this cat is just too wild). Bengals are generally just domestic cats with some funny looks and sounds.
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Jan 5, 2010 22:36
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| # ? May 25, 2024 14:13 |
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This afternoon I took my dog, Loki, out for a walk and ended up bumping into one of my neighbors and his dog. Our dogs were all ecstatic to see each other and were romping/wrestling as my neighbor and I were chatting (mostly about our dogs of course). When we were wrapping stuff up so he could go about his business and I could finish walking my dog, he goes "Btw ... I just got Rocky (his dog) back from his yearly appointment. Apparently he has a virus on his tongue that he probably got from the dog park." Then he proceeds to show me a gross white, pea sized growth on Rocky's tongue. His vet told him there wasn't any treatment and it should just go away on its own in a month or two. Cue me googling just how contagious it is as they were playing for, I dunno, 10 minutes or so. I wish he'd told me before his dog was licking my dog's mouth and it's like right on the tip of his tongue. It sounds like his vet was talking about canine viral papilloma. Does anyone know just how contagious it is?  Here's a picture of the Loks. Please don't get cauliflower lumps in your mouth! 
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Jan 6, 2010 01:13
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