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Pompous Rhombus posted:Just buy the developing supplies yourself, B&W processing is usually more expensive than color at a lab, but is quite inexpensive and easy to do at home. Yeah, it's not that bad. If you use a concentrated developer like Rodinal or HC-110 and don't shoot that often, you won't be spending much on chemicals. Fixer and stop bath can be reused. You can get an AP developing tank with two reels for a reasonable amount of money. The rest of the equipment you can probably find at a supermarket or something for cheap.
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Dec 31, 2009 18:52
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FasterThanLight posted:This one (Beseler 45AF) was $150, which seems to be pretty average as far as asking prices go around here. I actually have a Rolleimat Universal as well, but it requires an impossible-to-find condenser for anything larger than 35mm. The Beseler will cover just about everything else, but its ridiculously huge. That's a pretty good deal. I'm building a darkroom in my new studio and it seems like everyone on craigslist wants $300-500 for a Beseler, which I think is kind of ridiculous at this point.
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Dec 31, 2009 19:41
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I just hit the jackpot on craigslist. All this was free. Working enlager, 35mm and 75mm lenses, 4 easels, 5 trays, fancy safe light, 3 tanks with reels, poo poo load of chemistry, some film, a set of spotting pens that's never been opened, bunch of paper, tongs, grain focuser, and some misc. stuff. Fuuuuuuuuuck yeah. brad industry fucked around with this message at 22:29 on Dec 31, 2009 |
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Dec 31, 2009 22:23
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Beautiful setup. I'm ALWAYS like five minutes too late for these freebies when they pop up on craigs. Very jealous, needless to say.
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Dec 31, 2009 22:26
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Nice score! Craigslist is pretty permenantly dry around here, but if you know the right people, you can still come by some stuff. I'm finally going to use some of the darkroom equipment (chinese enlarger with 50mm lens and no baseboard, safelight, trays and stuff) the local pro-lab owner gave me, gonna tray develop my first sheet of 4x5 in my bathroom. Sealing it off is probably going to be the only hard part, I'm thinking garbage bags and painter's tape. e: Not sure how I'm going to scan it, my scanner only does up to 120. I might try to scan it in multiple pieces and stitch it together. But since my scanner doesn't have any exposure control, I'm concerned that even if I can align them properly, they will be pretty different in terms of levels. 365 Nog Hogger fucked around with this message at 22:30 on Dec 31, 2009 |
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Dec 31, 2009 22:27
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brad industry posted:I just hit the jackpot on craigslist. All this was free. Niiice! I see a few come up locally that are pretty decent deals, but I'm holding out for a good freebie myself.
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Dec 31, 2009 22:40
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I just washed a bunch of ancient, dirty film trays. My arms are itchy. Wear gloves, kids. e: Contrary to popular opinion, Diafine does not last forever. I just ruined my first sheet of 4x5 because my Diafine is exhausted. 365 Nog Hogger fucked around with this message at 02:29 on Jan 1, 2010 |
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Dec 31, 2009 23:33
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Just got some expired Polaroid 690 film. Any thing special I should do so I dont ruin this stuff? I only have 20 shots worth and I doubt if ill ever get my hands on more.
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Jan 1, 2010 07:11
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Reichstag posted:e: Not sure how I'm going to scan it, my scanner only does up to 120. I might try to scan it in multiple pieces and stitch it together. But since my scanner doesn't have any exposure control, I'm concerned that even if I can align them properly, they will be pretty different in terms of levels.
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Jan 1, 2010 14:58
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FasterThanLight posted:Bought an enlarger yesterday from someone on craigslist (a 4x5 enlarger that only came with a 50mm lens What in the gently caress is Verichrome?
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Jan 3, 2010 22:07
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), which included a box full of really old unexposed film:
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Look it up?
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Jan 3, 2010 22:48
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I like using Flickriver to check out emulsions. Tags aren't always reliable, but it's a start. http://flickriver.com/photos/tags/verichrome+pan/interesting/ http://flickriver.com/photos/tags/vericolor+II/interesting/ http://flickriver.com/photos/tags/kodacolor/interesting/ http://flickriver.com/photos/tags/panatomic/interesting/ http://flickriver.com/photos/tags/technical+pan/interesting/ http://flickriver.com/photos/tags/kodachrome/interesting/ And so on. I recently found a pretty neat book for $1 at my art school's library sale, a mid-eighties, first printing/first edition (with printer's notes) of Dan O'Neill's Users Guide to Photographic Films. It has specifications, format availability, recommended uses, and photo comparisons with color and grayscale test charts for about eighty of the major films of that era, some of which are still around.
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Jan 4, 2010 00:17
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is go
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catching up from a few pages back, i just went through a lot of different airport security going from US -> ROK -> India and then traveling in India. After enough arguing and persistence the only time I had any film scanned was some velvia 50 already loaded in my camera (and hopefully reasonably shielded). people would say the X-ray is film safe and I just said it's 'special film' that isn't. something that did bug me was thermal cycling of the film. i kept it in a ziploc, but it wasn't really well evacuated and it definitely skipped between cold and hot environments. i'm waiting on the rolls, but i have no clue what to expect. also earlier i asked about finding 120 film in the 3rd world. after a lot of searching i heard a place in delhi that had it, but by that point i was all but gone. most people never even heard of it.
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Jan 4, 2010 04:34
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If you want to minimize fast temp shifts wouldn't you want the bag to be full of air?
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Jan 4, 2010 11:18
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I seem to have found a sweet spot with HP5+ at 3200. XTOL, 1:1, 25 minutes, one inversion per minute. Seems to keep grain under control, nice shadow detail and highlights. The Olympus OM light metering system does a fantastic job at keeping most highlights just under the total blowout range.  Rest of set: http://www.mikechow.com/Concerts-2010/AdjectiveKill-MatildaBang-Bang/10852382_eXta5 And I am really loving shooting with my OM-4Ti. It's a great camera. Really, really solid and performs well under pressure. The thing is built like a brick. HPL fucked around with this message at 22:48 on Jan 4, 2010 |
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Jan 4, 2010 16:54
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evil_bunnY posted:If you want to minimize fast temp shifts wouldn't you want the bag to be full of air? good point, hadnt thought of that. figured lingering humidity & dust would be worse, though
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Jan 4, 2010 20:12
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A roll of C-41 film ripped off the reel inside the canister in my camera a few days ago. I have ruined parts of it by exposing it to light (before realizing what had happened, and then removing the film from the camera in a bag), but I'd like to try developing it. Now the question is - how do I give it to the camera store down the road? Backfeed the film back into the canister and mention that they wont have to cut it off the reel? Give them the developing tank with the film in it?
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Jan 6, 2010 18:28
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What can I expect out of a few rolls of reala 100 that expired in 1996?
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Jan 7, 2010 01:42
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Augmented Dickey posted:What can I expect out of a few rolls of reala 100 that expired in 1996? Depends on how it was stored, but I would expect speedloss, and probably a strong magenta cast.
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Jan 7, 2010 01:48
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Reichstag posted:Depends on how it was stored, but I would expect speedloss, and probably a strong magenta cast. How much speed loss should I compensate for? Would setting my camera to ASA 50 be a good estimate? I also found a roll of Kodak T400CN that expired in '03, should I expose that a little slower too?
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Jan 7, 2010 02:28
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My AP plastic reel just locked in a halfway position. Very weird. It's not in 35mm or 120mm, but like a few mm over the 35mm snap-in point. Also the two feed ears don't end in the same place anymore. I'm trying to force it open but it's stuck tight. I have two reels and only shoot 120 these days so it's not a big loss, but I'm wondering if anyone's seen something like this before.
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Jan 7, 2010 03:08
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Martytoof posted:My AP plastic reel just locked in a halfway position. Very weird. It's not in 35mm or 120mm, but like a few mm over the 35mm snap-in point. Also the two feed ears don't end in the same place anymore. I'm trying to force it open but it's stuck tight. I have two reels and only shoot 120 these days so it's not a big loss, but I'm wondering if anyone's seen something like this before. That's happened to me too. Just kept forcing it, way more than I was comfortable with, but luckily it came apart and nothing broke.
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Jan 7, 2010 03:34
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OK yeah, I basically felt like I was going to tear it apart and it just snapped back in two. Now it's like nothing ever happened. Also, thanks to everyone for recommending hanging drying prints in my bathroom. Noticeably less dust at first inspection. Have to hook up my scanner to verify but it looks good!
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Jan 7, 2010 05:11
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HPL posted:I seem to have found a sweet spot with HP5+ at 3200. XTOL, 1:1, 25 minutes, one inversion per minute.  It looks like what you're doing would hold more shadow detail than what I've got. I'll have to try it if I ever push HP5 again.
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Jan 7, 2010 05:46
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Kaerf posted:Hey, your results look quite good! When I've done HP5 at 3200 I've developed in stock XTOL to good results: Yours looks pretty darn good too. What development cycle did you use?
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Jan 7, 2010 05:54
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HPL posted:Yours looks pretty darn good too. What development cycle did you use? XTOL stock, 68F, 12m, 10s agitation every minute.
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Jan 7, 2010 08:32
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Augmented Dickey posted:How much speed loss should I compensate for? Would setting my camera to ASA 50 be a good estimate? C-41 films can be overexposed pretty liberally without detriment, so just take a half stop off the 400CN. Try between 50-100 on a test roll with the reala, write down which shots are at what EI, see what works.
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Jan 7, 2010 10:34
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Snaily posted:A roll of C-41 film ripped off the reel inside the canister in my camera a few days ago. I have ruined parts of it by exposing it to light (before realizing what had happened, and then removing the film from the camera in a bag), but I'd like to try developing it. I did this a few months back. I ended up being able to rewind it into a re-loadable canister that I use for bulk loading and taking it to a pro lab. It came out fine except for the last exposure. Re-loadable canisters should be available for 50 centsish at decent pro photo places, or online.
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Jan 7, 2010 12:52
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Kaerf posted:XTOL stock, 68F, 12m, 10s agitation every minute. Wow. That's a lot of agitation, relatively speaking. How did you avoid blown-out highlights? I'd do more stock XTOL development myself since I hate waiting, but I usually end up doing 3 to 5 rolls at a time so going 1:1 saves me a ton of developer.
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Jan 7, 2010 16:30
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HPL posted:Wow. That's a lot of agitation, relatively speaking. How did you avoid blown-out highlights? I wish I could answer that! It's what Ilford recommends on their packaging, so any film by them that's the agitation cycle I use. I rarely use anything but Trix now and I only develop that in XTOL 1:1, so I'd like to try that for HP5 pushed.
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Jan 7, 2010 19:42
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I have a random question. I have recently acquired several film camera, one 35 and one 120. After looking into the cost of b&w developing I kinda want to have a go at it myself. The problem is that I live with my girlfriend in a one bedroom apartment, and she is concerned about the smell of the chemicals. Are there any chemicals that don't smell that I can use? Or is the smell not really noticeable?
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Jan 7, 2010 21:00
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Demon_Corsair posted:I have a random question. Most developers don't smell very much. You can get odorless fix but I have never had a room mate complain about the smell of the regular stuff. Just use water stop baths so that she doesn't have to smell the acid.
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Jan 7, 2010 21:05
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Demon_Corsair posted:I have a random question. Fixer kind of smells, but it's not really overpowering or anything. It's really only noticeable when you're pouring it into the tank, which when you seal it is air/water tight. For storage, chemicals are in airtight containers as well, so it's not a big deal. I prefer doing my developing in the bathroom with the fan on just to be safe, personally. For developer, D76 seems pretty odorless, I'm not sure about the more concentrated XTOL/HC110/Rodinal that most people seem to favor. I don't think they're bad though.
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Jan 7, 2010 21:06
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Yeah. The only time you'll notice a fixer smell is a) When you're pouring the chemical into the tank b) When you accidentally spill it somewhere or get it on your hands. Don't forget that fixer shouldn't be poured down the drain but instead it's reusable. This has the added benefit of not being stuck in your drain leaving fixer smell all over your bathroom. I did a roll of 120 last night. I was extra careful with the pouring of the fixer both into and out of the tank, used a funnel at all times. The smell lingered for maybe half a minute before I washed the tank. After that it wasn't even noticeable. Edit: I don't think HC-110 has any odour. Not anything that I identified anyway. Neither does Ilfosol 3, the only other developer I have experience with. Maybe if you're huffing the concentrate bottle v  v
some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 21:14 on Jan 7, 2010 |
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Jan 7, 2010 21:10
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Martytoof posted:Yeah. The only time you'll notice a fixer smell is Thanks for the info. She took a photography course when she was younger, but I think she thinks I want to do more then develop. When I first mentioned home developing she though I was going to do the full neg to print process. Does wet printing smell?
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Jan 7, 2010 21:50
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Demon_Corsair posted:Does wet printing smell? A little more than developing, yes. But it's totally worth it. I have never gotten sick from the fumes nor do I know anyone who has, either.* It's a very minor localized smell and it's not like it will stink up your house or anything. *not including the brain tumor I'm expecting 50 years from now.
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Jan 7, 2010 21:55
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I haven't done any wet printing since high school, but since your chemicals are all exposed to air instead of being in a watertight canister I'd have to say yes, you'll get more smell from just having an open tray of fixer lying around.
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Jan 7, 2010 21:56
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Thats kind of what I figured. Now I just have to convince her that the fumes won't kill the cat, and that I can do it without causing any damage to the place.
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Jan 7, 2010 22:06
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Fixer stinks but you'll learn to love it.
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Jan 7, 2010 22:15
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HPL posted:Fixer stinks but you'll learn to love it. Either it's the Diafine or the fix, but something makes my hands smell for 36 hours when I've done some developing. They smell like wood pulp factories.
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Jan 7, 2010 22:43
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